I kind of doubt it. It would require removing the cover and modding the side guard to get the motor in and out. There’s team drivers already modding it this way with the EB48 2.1 mount
Been out of r.c for 6 years. Getting back in as a basher at first. Kit arrived today. Just put in orders for parts. Running your Protek servo choice with the Flo Tek body. Painting it with the Tamiya paints and the Pro Line mask. Thanks Rich for helping us onboard. Nearest track 1 hour away so plan to bash it mostly. Bought the body mounting kit from Tekno. Plan to run 2s with the 4300 motor and their think Gen2 Esc.
Great to see you doing videos again. I always love watching your channel you got great content and lots of information . I agree on that motor mount I don’t like it but it’s a great looking rig and you always do some very nice clean builds 👍🏽🤙🏽😁
@@TheRCNetwork Thanks! I was more thinking of body hole alignment, I have a brand new body for the SL and 410.3 (holes already in) would be nice if it would fit the new 2.0
Maybe? I know in the owners manual, they state the older body posts also fit (or maybe they have a new part number for the SCT410 2.0) - you remember the ones that had several different offset posts? That could correct the issue if there is one.
Building Now, Half way through. About to open Bag K and mount the same 2s system you displayed, Tekin RX8 Gen3 w/ Pro4 HD Redline Motor and 16t Pinion. Gonna try her with the new RadioMaster MT12 with ExpressLRS. Also built her with Carbon Fiber front and rear shock towers. Stock rear tower weight is 1.2oz, Carbon Fiber rear weighs 0.6oz, that’s half cut in the front and rear. Purchased front and rear Skid Plates, add a little lower Cg weight.
What do you recommend using to mount your ESC and receiver? Gorilla double sided tape? Shoe goo? Or something else? I need help figuring out what the best option is to adhere them!
I use the 3M clear silicon double sided tape. Make sure both sides are super clean and stick it down. The Gorilla stuff is terrible imo. Sometimes I use two pieces of the 3M to add some cushioning/impact resistance
Loaded question there. It quite possibly can be, but it would need to also work with the ET48 2.0 parts, which hasn't been tested yet. Just considering the motor mount, I doubt that the SCT410 2.0 and ET48 2.0 would match up let alone all of the other parts - chassis braces, driveshafts, etc. One thing to consider now though is the EB48 2.1 as a starting platform as the ET48 2.0 should fit. When I built my original DB48, the major issue was having 12mm hexes for the current (2017) line of wheels and tires available. Now, there are 17mm SCT wheels and SCT Hyrax tires available.
Would you do a video on what you would use to build a U4 racer with the kits and parts Tekno has now? The DB 48 had some great mods and engineering, but that kit is no longer available.
I haven't looked lately at converting a DB48 "2.0" with the new gen's from Tekno. When I built the original DB48, the main issue I had was keeping the 12mm hexes, as that was the only option at them time for racing as 17mm hexed wheels were not allowed....or would even fit. Now, with 17mm hex wheels being allowed and now available, I would start with the EB48 2.1.....and add the ET48 2.0 chassis to start. I would ask Tekno directly as they probably already know the answer...or have had people ask
I'm happy to see you doing more race oriented videos for a good videos. That's all we dabble in. Especially the kyosho video. I loved it even though it was an RTR
I'm curious about heat with this truck. A couple of the guys at my local track (asphalt and large) have this truck and they have all had trouble with heat. We are limited to 2S and most of us have 2800kv motors, in this pretty heavy truck. They have the sliding motor mount and have put in some pretty big pinions, 25T and larger. so as you can imagine, their batteries get pretty hot, and so do the motors. I'm picking mine up on Thursday. Have you had this heat problem? how did you deal with it?
To give you some backstory on 4wd SCT - originally, they were much lighter - like the AE SC10 4x4, the Hong Nor Nexx10, the Jammin SCRT10, etc. It wasn't till the Losi SCTE came out that scales started to tip to beef up durability. Then, of course, Tekno put their hat in the ring with the SCT410, which was about 1lbs heavier than the SCTE. Couple the new weights with the mandated 2s by ROAR and you had electronics pushed to the limit. Batteries were usually the casualty with these trucks or the ESC based on the gearing. As for the new SCT410 2.0, it can run on the newest 2s electronics with ease - usually the 550 canned 4300kv will be the sweet spot using Tekno's advised pinion. Battery wise, the highest mah and c rating you can afford or about 7500mah and at least 65c/130c. Now for your specific instance - 2800kv motors are going to run MUCH better on 3s electronics. By adding super tall pinions, you're making that motor work overtime, thus putting even more pressure on the battery as well. I would advise running a 4000kv (if you want the added torque) and drop that pinion way down in teeth. If you see my truck in the video, I'm only running the included RX8 fan and nothing else - I've had no heat problems and everything has come off of the track at normal temps. If I had it my way, I would only run 3s electronics in these trucks - like the 3000kv on 3s with a decent sized 3s pack. No need to bulk up the C ratings either if you run 3s.
i have the same motor pro4 hd, wondering how much does your shaft move in and out ( parallel to the shaft) ? im on the 410.3 right now myself. about to do a season of racing on 2025
All Tekin 4 pole motors have some fore/aft movement, usually just about a 1/16th of an inch (2mm) If you're getting more, you may want to disassemble and inspect the rotor, bearings, etc
Awesome video! I disagreed on 1 part though. SCT had always been great, people just seem to have forgotten. But i do get your point anyways. SCT is my favorite to drive, any and all!
SCT was my first love of RC - the Traxxas Slash 4x4 in 2010. Then got an SCTE, well actually 3 of them....then the original SCT410. I've probably had about 20+ SCT's (mostly RTR's) over the years....but the Tekno has always been my favorite. The 2.0 easily trumps the 410.3
@@TheRCNetwork the new tekno really is kind of the best of all the well known SCT's out there all in one. It's nice like a Traxxas, race ready like a losi or a TA, tough and fast like a Senton BLX. All in one truck. Very impressive!
So is the esc and motor chose good for the weight of this truck? I love the build direction you went for. Just confused with what electronics to go for. Read all the comments here and between Tekin and hobby wing.
It's ideal IMO - If you're racing it's one of the best options for SCT. If I were just bashing, I would swap out the 4300kv on 2s for a 3000kv on 3s. The 3s system will be better and less stress on everything vs. the 2s system (especially the batteries). Between Tekin and Hobbywing, I always prefer Tekin for my 1/8th scale systems like this one. For 1/10th scales (like buggies) I prefer the Hobbywing
Nice. I have a 4600kV and had to put a 16t on it since, you know, it won't accept anything less (even though it says a 15t). We're going to have to hit up Huckleberry for a play date!
Yes, you can....but the "smart features" will not operate. You can just solder a regular plug onto the ESC (I believe your battery has an IC5 connector....the EC5 will be the non-smart version)
Man, where are your uploads at? You format was tiptop, and was waiting to see what you had in store for the new Teknos and other new Arrma models. Whatever it is, hope you get over it and get back to making videos soon. All the best bra'.
Hey buddy! Well, it's been a minute and doing the 4 video test with the SCT410 2.0 was a good gauge at where I was with both RC and film making on TH-cam. I did those four videos as a favor to Tekno and a few others and quite honestly, I just lost that "loving feeling" for RC and shooting videos. It felt much more like work and doing four highly edited videos in just over a week plus building, painting, electronics, etc was a task. I really enjoyed the building part, but when you add in all of the B-roll video, voice overs and editing that had to take place, it was a bear. To give you and example, I had over 150 clips of B roll for the Build Review video - all of which had to be placed and voiced for the final film. I likely will not return to filming video for RC, the industry is great as a hobby, but to do it as a side hustle, it gets old quick. Happy RCing
@TheRCNetwork all that work explains the quality that is apparent in the end result. Quite understandable though, how you chose to invest your time. Doesn't change the fact that your RC videos were awesome. Was good while it lasted. Take care, and all the best to you with your projects and future 👋🏽
My build : Max8 g2, 4268g2 2500kv, 20 tooth pinion gear, 4s, proline badland SC. Love my new build. Great improvement from the sct410.3. Waiting for the airguards (a must have on the sct410.3)
Do you think running the Pro4hd 3500kV - 3S LiPo would be better in this truck rather than the 4300kv? Im going to be building mine soon and don't plan on racing it at any clubs. Mainly using the truck for a small backyard track / a little bashing. I will be running the rx8 gen 3 and the same protek servo you got. Any info helps man! Awesome build!
I 100% think it would be a beast and run SO much more efficiently on 3s with a 3000kv motor. 3500kv you might run into some heat issues - If you ever saw my DB48 videos, I ran the 3000kv pro4HD on 3s and it was great, stayed cool and no battery issues. Some people tested the 3500kv and couldn't keep it cool enough - one guy actually had the solder melt off of his connectors. I built it on 2s just because of the roar rules for SCT
Great video, thanks. Just starting my build. I am leaning toward running a HW EZ run max 10 2400 KV motor with an 18 pinion on 3 s with the option of trying 4s down the road. Do you think I would be better off with the HW 3200 KV with the optional motor mount? Not racing, just for fun and bashing…
Two things….1. the Max 10 ESC might not be enough ESC for this truck (she’s heavy….the truck that is) better check what it’s rated. The 2400 will be quite slow on 3s…..even with an 18t. The sweet spot for 3s is usually 3000-3200kv, but you’ll likely need that other motor mount to get a 15t on there
You were nice enough to answer my last question so here I go again. I would like to stick with a Hobbywing combo as I have been loving them in my crawler builds. Do you think an EZrun Max 8 G2 combo or Xerun XR8 Pro G3 combo would be a good fit? I do like that the EZrun version is water proof. Thanks, Mike. @@TheRCNetwork
If I were building it with Hobbywing, I'd put the XR8 Pro G3 and the 3660 3200kv motor in it on 3s. If I were to do the EZrun, it would be the Max8 combo - 2500kv...but it's slightly out of the sweet spot for 3s and will run hot on 4s. You can mess with gearing to compensate...but keep in mind, the stop set up is designed for 2s weight. If you start adding a 4s brick, 4268 motor, etc....the suspension will be pretty soft, diff fluids slightly off.
I'll tell you, going from AE to Tekno will be a huge difference....what I noticed is that the kits go together so much better. No missing parts and the directions are so much clearer. Also, durability is great with Tekno
Yeah, I didn't expect to see this on a Tekno. They pride themselves on race-born vehicles. I bet their drivers hate this design as well...but all my opinion.
The crappy thing with SC trucks is they let so much air under the body. Without wheely bars they hit a certain speed and simply flip backwards. Definitely don't try push speeds with a head-on wind. 3s is more than enough for any of these type of RCs
Overall, great video. Excellent body choice...if I get the chassis kit, I'd be getting the same body. As for the 'flaw', there really isn't one...at least, not what you're considering as a 'flaw'. The "problem" is having chosen to use such a high kv motor. Most people running this on 2S for bashing will be running a motor closer to 4000kv, thus the pinion range on the motor mount would be considered "accurate". In regards to reaching, most tracks running an SCT class are running 13.5T motors, which is closer to a 3500kv equivalency.
Thanks for watching. The "flaw" was two fold: 1. It proves hard to swap a pinion. With a sliding mount, you loosen two screws and you're changing a pinion. This one, you're removing most of the center section. 2. Pinion choice - for 4300kv 2s, you have 1 choice - 16t. 15t is not compatible with the stock mount. From what I see most SCT guys are running 4300kv 550 or 4600kv 540 - al on 2s. For the 4600, no pinion will work with the stock mount. With that, if I were building a 3s truck, the real sweet spot is either a 3000kv Tekin or a 3200kv Hobbywing.....which puts you in the same boat - nothing will work for the 3200kv and only a 16t will work for the 3000kv. IMO, the 3500kv is too slow for 2s and will run hot on 3s.
@@TheRCNetwork What you ignoring is that, for most tracks running 1/10 SCT outdoors, and all indoor tracks, they're only running 2S. Yes, the truck can be used for bashing. But, it was designed/developed as a competition vehicle...and, as a competition vehicle, it's going to be running a 13.5T motor on 2S - that's what ROAR dictates, so that's what almost all clubs run.
I'll respectfully disagree with you. 1. Tekno designed this as a hybrid truck - can be raced, can be bashed. If it were 100% race, it would have come with adjustable geometry in the box. I spoke to them about this exact thing. 2. I know that there's a 2s rule for Roar...which is why I set it up that way from the beginning. 3. I'd love to see a 13.5t, 2 pole 540 canned motor in this truck. It will literally explode being the truck is nearing 8lbs. BTW, ROAR only dictates voltage (2s) and motor can size (540/550), not turn/kv (at least for the 2023 rules). You might be able to run that 13.5t in the SL or a 2wd, but in this truck....nope.
Dam. I’m in the process of building and can’t decide on the motor and esc. I’m reading all these comments and I’m confused. What combo well be good for the weight of this truck
Yea they need to get away from those stupid new motor mounts! If you are at a race and need to switch pinions in a hurry it aint happening! Tekno I know your watching the comments! Stop using these motor mounts!
I 100% agree. I get the business decision for the cost, but this is a kit and deserves at least a fully capable mount. I held off my opinion during the first two videos, but couldn't leave it alone for the third when I realized how much of a pain it will be to swap pinions
The way you leave almost no space between sentences after editing, is that intentional? Is it a style? I hear this quite a lot, and it's jarring. No human speaks that way.
It's all editing style. I've found that a well edited concise 10 minute video does much better (less people falling off) than a 16 minute video with a bunch of silent sections and "uhms"
Well, I disagree with the jumping.....I thought mine jumped great in stock config. The track I was at was quite blown out, but the jumps that had a good face, made it soar like in the opening scene. Slop wise, I also disagree....I thought that it was fine and on par with their other vehicles. Sure, it's not touring car precise or even 1/10th scale buggy precise, but it's solid for what it is. For the shocks - I agree. It should have come with the 17mm shocks. And don't get me started on the motor mount 😁
@@TheRCNetwork mayb its my super blown out low grip dusty tracks but i lowered shock oils to 45, 40 ae oils. Swapped pistons front to rear. Went to green rear springs and added a 20 gram weight 2 rear for it to feel good on track
I'm so happy to see you doing videos again! Awesome!!
Thanks buddy! 4 videos dropped today - check them out!
Glad you're still making videos Rich! Thanks
Thanks Jonny! It's fun to film these trucks
Welcome Back Rich, good to see you making videos again. Watching all the videos you uploaded.
Nice! Thanks for stopping by!
Flaw: 8:18
They will probably release a sliding motor mount for easy gear mesh adjustings.
I kind of doubt it. It would require removing the cover and modding the side guard to get the motor in and out. There’s team drivers already modding it this way with the EB48 2.1 mount
Been out of r.c for 6 years. Getting back in as a basher at first. Kit arrived today. Just put in orders for parts. Running your Protek servo choice with the Flo Tek body. Painting it with the Tamiya paints and the Pro Line mask. Thanks Rich for helping us onboard. Nearest track 1 hour away so plan to bash it mostly. Bought the body mounting kit from Tekno. Plan to run 2s with the 4300 motor and their think Gen2 Esc.
Glad to help buddy! If you have any questions, just ask!
Nice to See you again 👍
Thanks buddy!
Great to see you doing videos again. I always love watching your channel you got great content and lots of information . I agree on that motor mount I don’t like it but it’s a great looking rig and you always do some very nice clean builds 👍🏽🤙🏽😁
Thanks buddy! I've always tried to provide the best view of the RC vs. myself. I agree on the truck - its good looking and drives great!
Do you know if 410.3 and SL bodies will fit? The SL body worked with my 410.3 so maybe it will fit the 2.0
Most SCT bodies will fit. I'm running the JC Illusion Hi Flow. It fits pretty good
@@TheRCNetwork Thanks! I was more thinking of body hole alignment, I have a brand new body for the SL and 410.3 (holes already in) would be nice if it would fit the new 2.0
Maybe? I know in the owners manual, they state the older body posts also fit (or maybe they have a new part number for the SCT410 2.0) - you remember the ones that had several different offset posts? That could correct the issue if there is one.
That would be great if the old bodies will fit. Working on the build now hopefully will know soon! Thanks! Keep making sweet vids!@@TheRCNetwork
Building Now, Half way through. About to open Bag K and mount the same 2s system you displayed, Tekin RX8 Gen3 w/ Pro4 HD Redline Motor and 16t Pinion. Gonna try her with the new RadioMaster MT12 with ExpressLRS. Also built her with Carbon Fiber front and rear shock towers. Stock rear tower weight is 1.2oz, Carbon Fiber rear weighs 0.6oz, that’s half cut in the front and rear. Purchased front and rear Skid Plates, add a little lower Cg weight.
Nice! It’s a great truck and great build. Enjoy!
What do you recommend using to mount your ESC and receiver? Gorilla double sided tape? Shoe goo? Or something else? I need help figuring out what the best option is to adhere them!
I use the 3M clear silicon double sided tape. Make sure both sides are super clean and stick it down. The Gorilla stuff is terrible imo. Sometimes I use two pieces of the 3M to add some cushioning/impact resistance
Welcome back hope all has been going well! love the build super clean as always!
Thanks buddy! It was a fun build. 4 videos released today - check them out!
8:22 is the flaw in the video for anybody scrolling or short on time. It's a small one IMO but it's the motor mount. Take that for what it's worth.
It sure is....and I'm getting all sorts of crap from the Tekno fan boys....and I'M a TEKNO FANBOY!
the correct size pinion is M1 or M0.8?
Mod 1 for the pinions on this
Hey, Rich is back with another vid!
Yep, 4 videos dropped today...check them out!
@@TheRCNetwork found out already and watched 😄
Would you consider this a better platform for a DB48 conversion?
Loaded question there. It quite possibly can be, but it would need to also work with the ET48 2.0 parts, which hasn't been tested yet. Just considering the motor mount, I doubt that the SCT410 2.0 and ET48 2.0 would match up let alone all of the other parts - chassis braces, driveshafts, etc. One thing to consider now though is the EB48 2.1 as a starting platform as the ET48 2.0 should fit. When I built my original DB48, the major issue was having 12mm hexes for the current (2017) line of wheels and tires available. Now, there are 17mm SCT wheels and SCT Hyrax tires available.
Would you do a video on what you would use to build a U4 racer with the kits and parts Tekno has now? The DB 48 had some great mods and engineering, but that kit is no longer available.
I haven't looked lately at converting a DB48 "2.0" with the new gen's from Tekno. When I built the original DB48, the main issue I had was keeping the 12mm hexes, as that was the only option at them time for racing as 17mm hexed wheels were not allowed....or would even fit. Now, with 17mm hex wheels being allowed and now available, I would start with the EB48 2.1.....and add the ET48 2.0 chassis to start. I would ask Tekno directly as they probably already know the answer...or have had people ask
You are back! Really miss your videos.
Yep, I'm back. Not sure how often I'll post, but when I see cool RC stuff, I'll be there!
I'm happy to see you doing more race oriented videos for a good videos. That's all we dabble in. Especially the kyosho video. I loved it even though it was an RTR
Thanks! Tekno make great RC's and it's hard to pass up a new truck from them.
I'm curious about heat with this truck. A couple of the guys at my local track (asphalt and large) have this truck and they have all had trouble with heat. We are limited to 2S and most of us have 2800kv motors, in this pretty heavy truck. They have the sliding motor mount and have put in some pretty big pinions, 25T and larger. so as you can imagine, their batteries get pretty hot, and so do the motors. I'm picking mine up on Thursday. Have you had this heat problem? how did you deal with it?
To give you some backstory on 4wd SCT - originally, they were much lighter - like the AE SC10 4x4, the Hong Nor Nexx10, the Jammin SCRT10, etc. It wasn't till the Losi SCTE came out that scales started to tip to beef up durability. Then, of course, Tekno put their hat in the ring with the SCT410, which was about 1lbs heavier than the SCTE. Couple the new weights with the mandated 2s by ROAR and you had electronics pushed to the limit. Batteries were usually the casualty with these trucks or the ESC based on the gearing. As for the new SCT410 2.0, it can run on the newest 2s electronics with ease - usually the 550 canned 4300kv will be the sweet spot using Tekno's advised pinion. Battery wise, the highest mah and c rating you can afford or about 7500mah and at least 65c/130c. Now for your specific instance - 2800kv motors are going to run MUCH better on 3s electronics. By adding super tall pinions, you're making that motor work overtime, thus putting even more pressure on the battery as well. I would advise running a 4000kv (if you want the added torque) and drop that pinion way down in teeth. If you see my truck in the video, I'm only running the included RX8 fan and nothing else - I've had no heat problems and everything has come off of the track at normal temps. If I had it my way, I would only run 3s electronics in these trucks - like the 3000kv on 3s with a decent sized 3s pack. No need to bulk up the C ratings either if you run 3s.
i have the same motor pro4 hd, wondering how much does your shaft move in and out ( parallel to the shaft) ? im on the 410.3 right now myself. about to do a season of racing on 2025
All Tekin 4 pole motors have some fore/aft movement, usually just about a 1/16th of an inch (2mm) If you're getting more, you may want to disassemble and inspect the rotor, bearings, etc
Awesome video! I disagreed on 1 part though. SCT had always been great, people just seem to have forgotten. But i do get your point anyways. SCT is my favorite to drive, any and all!
SCT was my first love of RC - the Traxxas Slash 4x4 in 2010. Then got an SCTE, well actually 3 of them....then the original SCT410. I've probably had about 20+ SCT's (mostly RTR's) over the years....but the Tekno has always been my favorite. The 2.0 easily trumps the 410.3
@@TheRCNetwork the new tekno really is kind of the best of all the well known SCT's out there all in one. It's nice like a Traxxas, race ready like a losi or a TA, tough and fast like a Senton BLX. All in one truck. Very impressive!
I can't agree more.
So is the esc and motor chose good for the weight of this truck? I love the build direction you went for. Just confused with what electronics to go for. Read all the comments here and between Tekin and hobby wing.
It's ideal IMO - If you're racing it's one of the best options for SCT. If I were just bashing, I would swap out the 4300kv on 2s for a 3000kv on 3s. The 3s system will be better and less stress on everything vs. the 2s system (especially the batteries). Between Tekin and Hobbywing, I always prefer Tekin for my 1/8th scale systems like this one. For 1/10th scales (like buggies) I prefer the Hobbywing
4 videos today! wow when you come back you really comeback!🎉😊
Thanks! nearly 45 minutes of finished video. Over 200GB of unedited footage to make these!
Thanks for the video. I'm getting mine in April for some local New England 2S racing and it gave a lot of great info.
Nice! Enjoy building and driving!
That's a beautiful setup bro!!!
Thanks George, I appreciate the kind words
All enjoyment watching your videos❤ every time great style📹🎬 so thankful 🙏 taking the time showing an explaining so much 🙌
Thanks buddy! I truly appreciate the kind words. 4 videos dropped today...make sure and check them out!
Nice. I have a 4600kV and had to put a 16t on it since, you know, it won't accept anything less (even though it says a 15t). We're going to have to hit up Huckleberry for a play date!
Agreed! Let me know
Loved the video. With your motor and ESC. Could I use a Spektrum Smart Battery 2s Lipo in that same setup as yours? Thanks. Scott
Yes, you can....but the "smart features" will not operate. You can just solder a regular plug onto the ESC (I believe your battery has an IC5 connector....the EC5 will be the non-smart version)
Thanks what kind of charger do you use with that style battery you have for bullet connectors?
I use the Team Orion Touch Duo charger...with 5mm bullet leads
It’s been a minute since you posted something awesome truck
It sure has! over 2 years now....4 videos dropped today - check them out!
Man, where are your uploads at? You format was tiptop, and was waiting to see what you had in store for the new Teknos and other new Arrma models.
Whatever it is, hope you get over it and get back to making videos soon.
All the best bra'.
Hey buddy! Well, it's been a minute and doing the 4 video test with the SCT410 2.0 was a good gauge at where I was with both RC and film making on TH-cam. I did those four videos as a favor to Tekno and a few others and quite honestly, I just lost that "loving feeling" for RC and shooting videos. It felt much more like work and doing four highly edited videos in just over a week plus building, painting, electronics, etc was a task. I really enjoyed the building part, but when you add in all of the B-roll video, voice overs and editing that had to take place, it was a bear. To give you and example, I had over 150 clips of B roll for the Build Review video - all of which had to be placed and voiced for the final film. I likely will not return to filming video for RC, the industry is great as a hobby, but to do it as a side hustle, it gets old quick. Happy RCing
@TheRCNetwork all that work explains the quality that is apparent in the end result.
Quite understandable though, how you chose to invest your time.
Doesn't change the fact that your RC videos were awesome.
Was good while it lasted.
Take care, and all the best to you with your projects and future 👋🏽
My build : Max8 g2, 4268g2 2500kv, 20 tooth pinion gear, 4s, proline badland SC. Love my new build. Great improvement from the sct410.3. Waiting for the airguards (a must have on the sct410.3)
Nice! that's some serious power...keep track of that driveline and report back how it does with constant 4s power!
Do you think running the Pro4hd 3500kV - 3S LiPo would be better in this truck rather than the 4300kv? Im going to be building mine soon and don't plan on racing it at any clubs. Mainly using the truck for a small backyard track / a little bashing. I will be running the rx8 gen 3 and the same protek servo you got. Any info helps man! Awesome build!
I 100% think it would be a beast and run SO much more efficiently on 3s with a 3000kv motor. 3500kv you might run into some heat issues - If you ever saw my DB48 videos, I ran the 3000kv pro4HD on 3s and it was great, stayed cool and no battery issues. Some people tested the 3500kv and couldn't keep it cool enough - one guy actually had the solder melt off of his connectors. I built it on 2s just because of the roar rules for SCT
Great video, thanks. Just starting my build. I am leaning toward running a HW EZ run max 10 2400 KV motor with an 18 pinion on 3 s with the option of trying 4s down the road. Do you think I would be better off with the HW 3200 KV with the optional motor mount? Not racing, just for fun and bashing…
Two things….1. the Max 10 ESC might not be enough ESC for this truck (she’s heavy….the truck that is) better check what it’s rated. The 2400 will be quite slow on 3s…..even with an 18t. The sweet spot for 3s is usually 3000-3200kv, but you’ll likely need that other motor mount to get a 15t on there
Great, thanks for the advice. I will re think my set up. 👍🏻@@TheRCNetwork
You were nice enough to answer my last question so here I go again. I would like to stick with a Hobbywing combo as I have been loving them in my crawler builds. Do you think an EZrun Max 8 G2 combo or Xerun XR8 Pro G3 combo would be a good fit? I do like that the EZrun version is water proof. Thanks, Mike. @@TheRCNetwork
If I were building it with Hobbywing, I'd put the XR8 Pro G3 and the 3660 3200kv motor in it on 3s. If I were to do the EZrun, it would be the Max8 combo - 2500kv...but it's slightly out of the sweet spot for 3s and will run hot on 4s. You can mess with gearing to compensate...but keep in mind, the stop set up is designed for 2s weight. If you start adding a 4s brick, 4268 motor, etc....the suspension will be pretty soft, diff fluids slightly off.
Thank you for that. XR8 it is. 👍@@TheRCNetwork
ur back!!!!! Yay
Kinda....but only for a fun truck like this one!
Looks so nice! Upgraded from Traxxas to AE for racing. Tekno will be my next victim.
I'll tell you, going from AE to Tekno will be a huge difference....what I noticed is that the kits go together so much better. No missing parts and the directions are so much clearer. Also, durability is great with Tekno
Great job man it looks rad
Thanks Jonny!
I want to build one. 2s
Build it the way I did - it's pretty much a race truck on 2s
I like the rx8 esc, but the switch is the worst. I really wish theyd replace it with a button switch like the hobbywing
I've found the Hobbywing button switched to get clogged with fine sand.....they're not perfect either
I’ve got waterproof switches on all my wet weather bashers. They are great! Yes I’m using hobbywing and hobbywing clones
wow, going to sell my slash ult and buy this babe :)
You will be amazed on the difference.
Totally agree on the fixed motor mount. It should not be on a high end kit like Tekno. Arrma 3s line even changed from the fixed motor mounts 😂
Yeah, I didn't expect to see this on a Tekno. They pride themselves on race-born vehicles. I bet their drivers hate this design as well...but all my opinion.
Big fan of Tekin. Still using an RX8 G2 in one of my Losi TLR SCT's. Kinda treat my Tekin gear with kit gloves as theyre so tricky to source in the UK
Ah, cool! Yes, Tekin stuff is great...and always my goto for 1/8th scale.
I have a spare lrp dynamic 10L motor. 😅😅 Would go nicely in one of these wouldnt it.
Might go well....
Man haven’t seen you for a while.
Neither have I! lol.
Are you back?
For Tekno, I am! We will see though....I had a blast driving last week.....haven't picked up a remote in over 2 years!
Evin if it is just a short stop back ill take what I can get😅 really is cool tho.I think I was just getting into hobby when you started your break😊
Very nice
Thanks for watching! 4 videos uploaded on Tuesday - check them out!
@@TheRCNetwork Kool will do
The crappy thing with SC trucks is they let so much air under the body. Without wheely bars they hit a certain speed and simply flip backwards. Definitely don't try push speeds with a head-on wind.
3s is more than enough for any of these type of RCs
Very true on the bodies.....parachute effect is real!
@@TheRCNetwork vent holes are the answer
@@kennysilvers-z4x watch the video, I cover this
New here lets jam!
Let's go! 4 videos uploaded this morning....be sure to subscribe!
Overall, great video. Excellent body choice...if I get the chassis kit, I'd be getting the same body.
As for the 'flaw', there really isn't one...at least, not what you're considering as a 'flaw'. The "problem" is having chosen to use such a high kv motor. Most people running this on 2S for bashing will be running a motor closer to 4000kv, thus the pinion range on the motor mount would be considered "accurate". In regards to reaching, most tracks running an SCT class are running 13.5T motors, which is closer to a 3500kv equivalency.
Thanks for watching. The "flaw" was two fold: 1. It proves hard to swap a pinion. With a sliding mount, you loosen two screws and you're changing a pinion. This one, you're removing most of the center section. 2. Pinion choice - for 4300kv 2s, you have 1 choice - 16t. 15t is not compatible with the stock mount. From what I see most SCT guys are running 4300kv 550 or 4600kv 540 - al on 2s. For the 4600, no pinion will work with the stock mount. With that, if I were building a 3s truck, the real sweet spot is either a 3000kv Tekin or a 3200kv Hobbywing.....which puts you in the same boat - nothing will work for the 3200kv and only a 16t will work for the 3000kv. IMO, the 3500kv is too slow for 2s and will run hot on 3s.
@@TheRCNetwork What you ignoring is that, for most tracks running 1/10 SCT outdoors, and all indoor tracks, they're only running 2S. Yes, the truck can be used for bashing. But, it was designed/developed as a competition vehicle...and, as a competition vehicle, it's going to be running a 13.5T motor on 2S - that's what ROAR dictates, so that's what almost all clubs run.
I'll respectfully disagree with you. 1. Tekno designed this as a hybrid truck - can be raced, can be bashed. If it were 100% race, it would have come with adjustable geometry in the box. I spoke to them about this exact thing. 2. I know that there's a 2s rule for Roar...which is why I set it up that way from the beginning. 3. I'd love to see a 13.5t, 2 pole 540 canned motor in this truck. It will literally explode being the truck is nearing 8lbs. BTW, ROAR only dictates voltage (2s) and motor can size (540/550), not turn/kv (at least for the 2023 rules). You might be able to run that 13.5t in the SL or a 2wd, but in this truck....nope.
Dam. I’m in the process of building and can’t decide on the motor and esc. I’m reading all these comments and I’m confused. What combo well be good for the weight of this truck
👍🏾
Thanks buddy! I appreciate you stopping by! 4 videos dropped today - check them out!
3s with Tekin gear. 1/8 buggy wheels.
A 3000kv Tekin Pro4HD would be ideal....and yes, buggy wheels for that added momentum
I went with the 3500kv . Great video series …I really enjoyed it.
Nice!
Alright 4th to 5th video on this today.
Nice! nearly 45 minutes of edited video! Yay!
Yea they need to get away from those stupid new motor mounts! If you are at a race and need to switch pinions in a hurry it aint happening! Tekno I know your watching the comments! Stop using these motor mounts!
I 100% agree. I get the business decision for the cost, but this is a kit and deserves at least a fully capable mount. I held off my opinion during the first two videos, but couldn't leave it alone for the third when I realized how much of a pain it will be to swap pinions
OHYEAH в конце єто матюк на русском)
Really?
The way you leave almost no space between sentences after editing, is that intentional? Is it a style? I hear this quite a lot, and it's jarring. No human speaks that way.
It's all editing style. I've found that a well edited concise 10 minute video does much better (less people falling off) than a 16 minute video with a bunch of silent sections and "uhms"
Theres a few. 1 it jumps like shit the small hole pistons r in rear. Oils 2 thick. Alot of slop even for a tekno. And its really front heavy
Well, I disagree with the jumping.....I thought mine jumped great in stock config. The track I was at was quite blown out, but the jumps that had a good face, made it soar like in the opening scene. Slop wise, I also disagree....I thought that it was fine and on par with their other vehicles. Sure, it's not touring car precise or even 1/10th scale buggy precise, but it's solid for what it is. For the shocks - I agree. It should have come with the 17mm shocks. And don't get me started on the motor mount 😁
@@TheRCNetwork mayb its my super blown out low grip dusty tracks but i lowered shock oils to 45, 40 ae oils. Swapped pistons front to rear. Went to green rear springs and added a 20 gram weight 2 rear for it to feel good on track