Just aw this video - I had Garrett install this on my Bronco in Park City at his garage. He was really great and my Bronco came back better than it went in. I'm running 35s. Ride quality has been great, it definitely has a better stance, and I'm extremely pleased with the outcome. Ha, just like in this video, I was worried about garaging, but it still fits with a bit of room to spare. I can't recommend this kit enough.
To place the coil back the way it came off the strut, review the vid for how you took the strut out of the Bronco....reverse-engineering through visual and compare that to the other side. What I don't get, its a strut. The strut is only so long when fully extended. The strut is the shock portion so you basically lessoned the travel of the shock in the strut. You placed the coil in more compression, thus have to compress coil more to get the top mount secured to the strut. All the other IFS 4x4s with strut configuration, ie Suzuki Sidekick/Geo Tracker, lift comes from a spacer added to the upper strut mount to its frame mount. The coil height remains the same, the strut travel remains the same. Its now lower as a unit relative to the upper frame mount and its bottom mount, though the Suzuki's strut was also the upper suspension locating component, unlike the Bronco with upper and lower a-arm configuration.
Yeah, it is lessoning the down travel of the shock. The puck spacer does exactly what you say, however, it is causing some drastic differences in your suspension geometry. This is really the only problem with IFS suspension is how hard it is to modify it. You can't make drastic changes without changes to all components.
@@wildhorses4x4 Yes, think IS (independent suspension) a-arms as the difference between a short arm vs long arm on straight axles. Yes, its a lot easier to get 2-4" more lift with similar travel in a stockish straight axle vehicle with short arms. Go more in that, you need to redesign the suspension to get the most of the axle travel and height through long arms and geometrically positioned. Mfrs have some up with ways to get not as much travel, but more 'lift' with IS format. Requiring dropping rigid components off the frame but as well leaving other components in mfr'd position. Meaning, with adding a taller knuckle, keep the steering in the proper geometry relative to the upper arm and its rack mount. The knuckle relocates the axle stub through a lower hole in the knuckle, there is a sub-frame added and the axle housing is lowered to maintain factory designed operating angles on the axle's cvs.
@@wildhorses4x4 Hummer's IS designed is well designed and many lift mfrs should look into this design. Cost will be much greater and most to all users won't be able to afford this design and layout. Adding portal designed knuckles and setup will be the ticket to get lift height, change in axle ratio for the much greater tire size, and basically keep the steering and axles in stock operating angles. Take a look at SxSers using long travel IS setups and with the use of their portals. The portals available for the SxSs have several drop heights and this translates into optional ratios at the hub and not at the pinion.
I struggle to understand why this lifts the vehicle. The strut is the same length or does it actually push the strut out further at the resting position (essentially making it "longer and higher")? Putting a spacer on top of the strut assembly is easy to understand why everything is raised up.
When You forgot to mark the struts could you still rotate the bottom of the Bilsteins to make slight corrections? Even if you mark it are there any fudge factor. Seems difficult to get it lined perfectly.
You’re also running 13.5 width versus the 12.5 width. You wouldn’t come close to it with the 12.5 I did the perch kit plus the leveling kit, plus with the jks kit, I am using the OE RIMS, with 1.5” spacer, and 37x12.5 KO2’s
On Sasquatch suspension can I combine the 2-1/4” perch lift/leveling kit, then add 1 inch spacers on top on the strut netting 3-1/4”? If not possible due to geometry concerns, can I combine the kits with the stock control arm, will an after market upper control arm solve the geometry 📐 issues?
You can get away with it if you're doing very little to extremely mild off-roading. Anything more, and you'd definitely want to look into getting that aftermarket UCA but that doesn't solve the axle angle. Some get away with it for longer than others, but eventually it might become an issue.
So what were the pros and cons of this style of lift? I would certainly appreciate less dive under braking... That would be a major improvement in the vehicle.
The pros are you aren't putting any severe angle adjustments on your stock suspension geometry. The con is you are sacrificing a little bit of down travel to achieve the lift.
Thanks for the video! I ordered the front and rear perch collars from your shop and just installed them. I'm finding that the front is lower than the rear running 37" Ridge Grapplers. Measuring from the rock rail to the floor I'm about 3/4 inch lower in the front on a Badlands non sasquatch. Is your bronco completely level?
My Bronco is completely level, yes. So you are saying you measured the rock rail in the front and in the rear, and the front of the rock rail is 3/4 inches lower than the rear?
@@wildhorses4x4 thanks for the reply, yes it was def lower. But could be my winch and burrito diet weighing the front down. 😂 I since installed a 1/4" spacer that was part of the RC 1" level to the bottom front shocks and it is much closer to being level now for me.
so for clarity i have 2021 ford bronco four doors black diamond with sasquatch package 2.7l ..with " factory bead locks " & perch collar lift 2.25 frt 1.25 back 37" will fit with no rub correct ...will probably run ko 2 mudders for example
I am putting in my 23 order today that will going mid August. Been struggling on 2 dr or 4 Dr. Mine will be mall crawler. I'm 59 live in NE Oklahoma and this will be my daily and planning my last . Just wife and I and we do go at least 200 miles highway every weekend 100 miles each day Saturday and Sunday to run around. Rest of week is City driving about 250 miles. You all have both 2 dr and 4 dr and want at least sasquash or bigger lift . If 4 dr it will be hard top . Which one is best on road and wind noise
I like the 4 dr because of the wheel base. It feels more to sturdy to me on and off road. The 2 dr is great and I wouldn't have complaints about either on the road, but even wind noise on the 4 door seems to be less drastic.
What fender flares are you running? Those don't look stock. Me likee! I have a 2.5 inch lift with 37's on mine with stock wheels. At full crank I rub on the rear inside and on the UCA. Just ordered some 0 offset Icon wheels to fix that.
So if you’re talking about using the front collars(the taller ones) on the rear, yes you can. It depends on the stance you want. If you go that route you will want to find an adequate lift for the front so your vehicle is leveled
There’s some misinformation in the video. The “puck style” spacer you’re referring to does put everything at a more severe angle at ride height, but so do these collars. The other components affected by suspsension lift like your tie rods, cvs, etc only care that a lift is there, not how the lift was achieved. Also Important to note that with these collars, it’s advertised to clear these tires at *ride height*. When you compress the suspension, it’ll still go to the same spot. A puck-style spacer will actually give the tire a new bump position, clearing them at all heights. It also won’t affect ride quality as much as these collars.
It took a couple hours because of filming. If I had to take a guess, without filming, if you knew what you were doing, it would probably take an hour and a half to two hours.
Hi, we apologize for the confusion. In this video, we failed to specify the variability of the perch collar lift. When taking the measurements posted online, we had a vehicle with aftermarket bumpers and recovery equipment. Due to the increased weight, the lift appeared less than the advertised 2.25". It's important to note that the more weight you add, the less pronounced the lift will be. We just added more information on our website to help explain this.
We added chapters to the video so if you already know how to install then you can skip forward to the measurements or the review (18:55)
Just aw this video - I had Garrett install this on my Bronco in Park City at his garage. He was really great and my Bronco came back better than it went in. I'm running 35s. Ride quality has been great, it definitely has a better stance, and I'm extremely pleased with the outcome. Ha, just like in this video, I was worried about garaging, but it still fits with a bit of room to spare. I can't recommend this kit enough.
yes compressing strut is no joke. i know had one let loose and hit me. lots of reconstruction done and pain to boot
Super cool Left, appreciate you sharing love the color of your bronco I’ll be following for more
This sure seems like a much more budget friendly lift alternative. I have a base Bronco with Sasquatch package and may just get this! Thanks!
Good stuff. May run this with a JKS max tire clearance kit on 37’s till I get a proper lift
Yeah the "proper lift" is still something I'm waiting for myself. This is the perfect kit to get by with.
it was good to meet you at super cell east. and telling you my story of why i dont do this. lol
thank you for the quick responds ////you are my go to guys now ....
To place the coil back the way it came off the strut, review the vid for how you took the strut out of the Bronco....reverse-engineering through visual and compare that to the other side.
What I don't get, its a strut. The strut is only so long when fully extended. The strut is the shock portion so you basically lessoned the travel of the shock in the strut. You placed the coil in more compression, thus have to compress coil more to get the top mount secured to the strut.
All the other IFS 4x4s with strut configuration, ie Suzuki Sidekick/Geo Tracker, lift comes from a spacer added to the upper strut mount to its frame mount. The coil height remains the same, the strut travel remains the same. Its now lower as a unit relative to the upper frame mount and its bottom mount, though the Suzuki's strut was also the upper suspension locating component, unlike the Bronco with upper and lower a-arm configuration.
Yeah, it is lessoning the down travel of the shock. The puck spacer does exactly what you say, however, it is causing some drastic differences in your suspension geometry. This is really the only problem with IFS suspension is how hard it is to modify it. You can't make drastic changes without changes to all components.
@@wildhorses4x4 Yes, think IS (independent suspension) a-arms as the difference between a short arm vs long arm on straight axles. Yes, its a lot easier to get 2-4" more lift with similar travel in a stockish straight axle vehicle with short arms. Go more in that, you need to redesign the suspension to get the most of the axle travel and height through long arms and geometrically positioned.
Mfrs have some up with ways to get not as much travel, but more 'lift' with IS format. Requiring dropping rigid components off the frame but as well leaving other components in mfr'd position. Meaning, with adding a taller knuckle, keep the steering in the proper geometry relative to the upper arm and its rack mount. The knuckle relocates the axle stub through a lower hole in the knuckle, there is a sub-frame added and the axle housing is lowered to maintain factory designed operating angles on the axle's cvs.
@@wildhorses4x4 Hummer's IS designed is well designed and many lift mfrs should look into this design. Cost will be much greater and most to all users won't be able to afford this design and layout. Adding portal designed knuckles and setup will be the ticket to get lift height, change in axle ratio for the much greater tire size, and basically keep the steering and axles in stock operating angles.
Take a look at SxSers using long travel IS setups and with the use of their portals. The portals available for the SxSs have several drop heights and this translates into optional ratios at the hub and not at the pinion.
Ur honest. If you were ma hiding yes correct about marking. However the sprin functions the same either way.
I struggle to understand why this lifts the vehicle. The strut is the same length or does it actually push the strut out further at the resting position (essentially making it "longer and higher")? Putting a spacer on top of the strut assembly is easy to understand why everything is raised up.
When You forgot to mark the struts could you still rotate the bottom of the Bilsteins to make slight corrections? Even if you mark it are there any fudge factor. Seems difficult to get it lined perfectly.
Also JKS max clearance kit
You’re also running 13.5 width versus the 12.5 width. You wouldn’t come close to it with the 12.5
I did the perch kit plus the leveling kit, plus with the jks kit, I am using the OE RIMS, with 1.5” spacer, and 37x12.5 KO2’s
Torque specs? Why do almost all videos leave out torque specs for reinstalling?
On Sasquatch suspension can I combine the 2-1/4” perch lift/leveling kit, then add 1 inch spacers on top on the strut netting 3-1/4”? If not possible due to geometry concerns, can I combine the kits with the stock control arm, will an after market upper control arm solve the geometry 📐 issues?
You can get away with it if you're doing very little to extremely mild off-roading. Anything more, and you'd definitely want to look into getting that aftermarket UCA but that doesn't solve the axle angle. Some get away with it for longer than others, but eventually it might become an issue.
So what were the pros and cons of this style of lift?
I would certainly appreciate less dive under braking... That would be a major improvement in the vehicle.
The pros are you aren't putting any severe angle adjustments on your stock suspension geometry. The con is you are sacrificing a little bit of down travel to achieve the lift.
You also are adding preload which will compromise ride quality.
How does it ride after this was done? How bad is the rubbing while cornering?
On the rear you were using a floor jack. You meant to say jack stand.
Thanks for the video! I ordered the front and rear perch collars from your shop and just installed them. I'm finding that the front is lower than the rear running 37" Ridge Grapplers. Measuring from the rock rail to the floor I'm about 3/4 inch lower in the front on a Badlands non sasquatch.
Is your bronco completely level?
My Bronco is completely level, yes. So you are saying you measured the rock rail in the front and in the rear, and the front of the rock rail is 3/4 inches lower than the rear?
@@wildhorses4x4 thanks for the reply, yes it was def lower. But could be my winch and burrito diet weighing the front down. 😂
I since installed a 1/4" spacer that was part of the RC 1" level to the bottom front shocks and it is much closer to being level now for me.
Those ti rod braces seem to be holding up? I just did the fab tech coil over set up on mine and was thinking about doing braces or new rods.
so for clarity i have 2021 ford bronco four doors black diamond with sasquatch package 2.7l ..with " factory bead locks " & perch collar lift 2.25 frt 1.25 back 37" will fit with no rub correct ...will probably run ko 2 mudders for example
If you are leaving the stock wheels, then you should be in the clear.
I am putting in my 23 order today that will going mid August. Been struggling on 2 dr or 4 Dr. Mine will be mall crawler. I'm 59 live in NE Oklahoma and this will be my daily and planning my last . Just wife and I and we do go at least 200 miles highway every weekend 100 miles each day Saturday and Sunday to run around. Rest of week is City driving about 250 miles. You all have both 2 dr and 4 dr and want at least sasquash or bigger lift . If 4 dr it will be hard top . Which one is best on road and wind noise
I like the 4 dr because of the wheel base. It feels more to sturdy to me on and off road. The 2 dr is great and I wouldn't have complaints about either on the road, but even wind noise on the 4 door seems to be less drastic.
@@wildhorses4x4
Thx
Do you have to do an alignment after??
What fender flares are you running? Those don't look stock. Me likee!
I have a 2.5 inch lift with 37's on mine with stock wheels. At full crank I rub on the rear inside and on the UCA. Just ordered some 0 offset Icon wheels to fix that.
Here's a link
www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/air-design-new-bronco-wide-fender-flares-4-door-FO34E11/4-Door-Bronco-Body-Parts
Which engine do you have and what fuel mileage are you averaging with the 37’s? Thanks
2.7 Looks like 13.7 average with the 37s. 4.70 gears
What puller set is that?
Can you use a pair of front spacers on the rear?
So if you’re talking about using the front collars(the taller ones) on the rear, yes you can. It depends on the stance you want. If you go that route you will want to find an adequate lift for the front so your vehicle is leveled
@@wildhorses4x4 Thank you kindly for responding. My bronco is a 1969 I was just wondering.
There’s some misinformation in the video. The “puck style” spacer you’re referring to does put everything at a more severe angle at ride height, but so do these collars. The other components affected by suspsension lift like your tie rods, cvs, etc only care that a lift is there, not how the lift was achieved.
Also Important to note that with these collars, it’s advertised to clear these tires at *ride height*. When you compress the suspension, it’ll still go to the same spot. A puck-style spacer will actually give the tire a new bump position, clearing them at all heights. It also won’t affect ride quality as much as these collars.
The biggest con of the perch collars is not that they affect your geometry, but that they lessen the down travel of your shock.
How long did the whole install take?
It took a couple hours because of filming. If I had to take a guess, without filming, if you knew what you were doing, it would probably take an hour and a half to two hours.
@@wildhorses4x4 for all 4 corners? That's quick
Clicked the link and online it is advertised as “This kit gives 1.5" of front lift and 1" of rear lift”. When was this changed to a shorter size ?
Hi, we apologize for the confusion. In this video, we failed to specify the variability of the perch collar lift. When taking the measurements posted online, we had a vehicle with aftermarket bumpers and recovery equipment. Due to the increased weight, the lift appeared less than the advertised 2.25". It's important to note that the more weight you add, the less pronounced the lift will be. We just added more information on our website to help explain this.
Offset is useless information unless you add wheel width