Hey bro, you the best. I just bought a Para3 and I was upset because the compression lock would stick. I was really bothered by it. I was even more upset when I saw the edge was uneven. But I tried the first step you recommended and it worked flawlessly. Thanks !!!!!
Hey Sean, thanks for the awesome tip, glad I found your video! Had bad lock stick on a brand new Paramilitary 2, which I thought putting oil on the lock bar and blade tang face where the lock meets would help but didn't. I also tried loosening the body screws behind of the pivot screws which also didn't work. I cleaned the blade and lock bar area, sprayed EDCI like you mentioned and no lock stick, amazing! Awesome scales you have there on that PM 2. Thanks for the advice and always sharing brother!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL Sent a little DM on IG! Hopefully you can get to it when you have time! Thanks again! Excited to try in a few hours, just picked up some 91 Isopropyl
Holy shit dude! Thank you! The EDCI trick worked perfectly!!! I grabbed one of the SMKW Exclusive M4 PM2's and it had really bad lock stick. Worse case of it I've ever seen on a compression lock. Usually it goes away in a few days of use, but not this time. I hit it with edci and cleared it right up. Amazing. Thank you!
You definitely know what you are doing. My first experiment was on a P2 China Version, and it worked. I also have the real P2 in Black which I don't want to mesh with, I will only clean it for now and of course I have the P2 left land version S30V. I'm new, but I am a big fan.
I was having really bad lock stick with my Spyderco para three so bad that it would literally hurt my finger I used this method and The knife turned to a buttery smooth opening feeling.
Just found your channel and subbed. Your killing the videos man👍👍. Also gotta say it’s cool to hear your dog in the background. all my videos seem to the same. My dog is just always with me when I’m home.
Thanks for the tips brother and I recently bought a bottle edci. Can I recommend a video to make. I'm fairly new to knives and I was recently looking for a TH-cam videos describing the internal parts of a knife but most that I found were about the outer parts. What I've learned has been from different videos and Facebook groups. It would be nice to see a video describing the internal parts to include the different types of pivots, washers, bearings, locks.. Etc Another thing I had read on Facebook about people polishing their washers on new spyderco knives. A video on how to do that would good too. Just some ideas of videos you don't see to often. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I have a video on polishing the washers up already! It’s the “improve the action of your Spyderco knife” video but you are welcome And thank you for the feedback!
Awesome man glad it worked for you! The Shaman is stock scales that I modified and the PM2 scales are flytanium Ti scales that were modified by Anthony Griffin!
I tried everything for my pm2. It made a loud clicking noise and needed a lot of force to close. I ended up loosening the g10 on the non locking side and it doesn't stick or click anymore
I've owned 3 paras and sold 2 because of lock stick. Im just dealing with the lock stick on my most recent para 3, not sure what's going on, it seems everyone doesn't have issues whereas everyone I touch has bad lock stick on the stop pin every time!
That’s unfortunate, I have only really had it on one spyderco from the factory and a couple times after installing aftermarket scales. I’ve always been able to get rid of it though. Sometimes it can happen because you have a screw over torqued on one side and stupid things like that. You just have to tune them up a little and sometimes they just need to break in a little bit. Idk if you watched the video but these methods always work for me. Good luck!
I used to think why not just put oil on it that should help duh duh duh. But I think what happens is the oil will actually allow the lock bar to slide too far on the tang while engaging and therefor is digging in rather than just sitting perfectly and in turn can create lock stick
I followed your tips to the letter with my new PM2 (that had horrendous lock stick out of the box) then ignored the very first thing you said on the video and oiled the shit out of it with some super light Daiwa reel oil. Problem (FINALLY) solved
Yeah, he used to drive me crazy when I was trying to make videos. Huge dog in a tiny house…. He’s in heaven now and I miss him all the time, he was a great dog. 😒
I don’t think oil has anything to do with lock stick… How could it? Oil UNSTICKS things! I have a LOT of Spydercos, mostly PM2s and Para 3s, and I think I have identified the cause, in many if not all cases, which is a rough surface on the tang of the blade, where it contacts the lock bar. When it is smooth, there is no lock stick; when it is rough or irregular, we have lock stick, sometimes severe! I have found severe lock stick in 2 cases, and both were caused by rough tang mating surfaces. There may be other causes, but this is a bad one… I purchased a FRN version of a Para 3 recently, which has the 2nd worst caseI ever saw. Am in the process of returning it…
Oil isn’t the only thing that can cause it but it’s guaranteed to make it worse. Sometimes it just needs to be broken in a little and then you never have the problem again, sometimes the knife needs to be adjusted by disassembly and reassembly to correct alignment. When things are mass produced it happens but there’s never been a knife that I couldn’t resolve lock-stick on. To me its much easier to fix it than go through the hassle of returning but I’m also confident in my abilities to resolve it. If you are not then it’s understandable to return the knife.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL Go test what, oil? What do YOU think happens when the lock bar mating surface is rough? Do you think that is NORMAL? Have you seen it? Oil doesn’t cause sticking, it relieves it.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIALImpossible. I re-watched your video to see if I missed something. I did not! It appears that you think that oil causes metal to stick against metal! Oil is used to reduce or eliminate friction between metal parts! Ask any internal combustion engine! It does not cause sticking. I stand by my understanding, that lock stick is caused by a failure of correct milling, i.e. machining. It has nothing to do with oil.
@@yankee2yankee216 you apparently don’t understand how a knife lock mechanism works. No point in going back and forth, you are convinced that you know more than you do. All you gotta do is read the comments and see what worked for all the other people. I’ve been doing this stuff in real life for a long time. Your “theoretical” approach doesn’t hold up to the real life results. All you have to do is try it for yourself and you’d find out…
Graphite lubricant works wonders. I just put some in my PM2 that had the worst lock stick BY FAR of any knife I've ever handled in my entire life. Sometimes I had to disengage the compression lock with two hands. Now it's butter. I can also attest to conventional lubricants making things worse. I initially tried KPL.. .WOW, sticky.
It doesn’t harm them in anyway, ive used it daily on any blade im carrying for years to remove tape residue plus other debris and all my dlc blades are good as new. All you have to do to make it look like new is rub some mineral oil on it and wipe it off but it’s not something you have to do
My problem is mainly that the lock scrapes the stop pin... Any suggestions? I tried messing with screws but not much I just rotated the stop pin so now I can see the scrape marks. But again it scrapes the stop pin. Making weird noises from time to time. Should I loosen the stp pin screws or tighten them? I'm new to this hobby... 😅 Also there is a black type of residue on the blade inside where the lock meets the blade. I clean it with alcohol it goes away for a little while action improves a little but it comes back...
Hey man, sounds like it could just need to break in a little. That black residue could be fine steel particles from whatever is having trouble clearing. Its hard to give you a definitive solution without having it in front of me but the things you mentioned could all be worth a try. Screws being loosened a hair is probably the best thing to try. You can always use medium loctite if to lock the screw where you need it.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL I appreciate your response mate thanks. I'll try and mess with screws some more... I don't think it's a break in issue I have it for like 2 months and flipped it like a trillion times... 😅 It's just frustrating to not have a butter smooth lock... Keep up the good work love your videos!
If after alcohol it’s still sticky, you can put sharpie on the lock face. It will come off with alcohol so don’t worry. And even better option is to use pencil on the lock face. Preferably sketching or drafting lead types instead of standard number 2 pencils. 6B or 2HB are the ones I have in my knife maintenance kit. The lead is soft and the powder will fill in microscopic holes in your blade steel which will cause less friction against the lock bar or mechanism. Sharpie won’t pack the holes, but it makes a sheen that causes less friction. Oil soaks in and almost will “swell” the blade steel which makes it bind even more. Especially when it’s steel on titanium and not steel on a steel lock-bar insert.
Or you could just do a proper job like spyderco didn't before it left the factory and take the knife apart and polish the mating surfaces properly.. that way you don't have to run a dry knife with no oil like this guy's suggesting which is a horrible idea. If your knife can't take being well oiled, something's wrong and not oiling it is a poor solution to a mechanical problem. And oil doesn't swell the steel at all, whoever told you that is a damn fool. The only thing the oil can do to make the lock stick worse is quite simple, oil creates LESS friction between the surfaces, which allows the locking bar to travel further into the blade cut out causing stick when tolerances are poor from the factory, this guy's and your "solution" actually creates MORE friction which stops the lock bar going as far into the blade cut out and sticking when tolerances are too tight from factory. That's why lock stick is worse when you flick the knife rather than gently open it, because that force also gives it more energy to go deeper into the lock face. It's common sense. And again refusing to oil a mechanical system or colouring it in with Sharpie or graphite is a fucking horrible "solution" to a mechanical problem, do it right and finish what spyderco didn't. Polish the edges with very fine sand paper and polishing compound removing a tiny bit of material to make the tolerances perfect and keep it well oiled. THAT'S the correct way to deal with a mechanical issue such as this.
Gotta love the dog slurping water for half the video...
Drives me fucking crazy man 🤦🏻♂️
Sounds like a 70’s budget porn flick
Him just a thirsty boi
U sire issa dog?
ZERO awareness
Where those scales and clip come from? Thanks
They were custom made by a friend! His name is Anthony Griffin. Not sure if he is currently making anything though.
Hey bro, you the best. I just bought a Para3 and I was upset because the compression lock would stick. I was really bothered by it. I was even more upset when I saw the edge was uneven. But I tried the first step you recommended and it worked flawlessly. Thanks !!!!!
Hell yeah brother!! Glad I could help! 👊🏼
I have a PM2 CruCarta that had really bad lock stick and the alcohol tip worked almost immediately. Thanks, dude!
You’re very welcome! Happy to help! 👊🏻
Ooo I’m jealous of your scales.
Thanks bro that was EXTREMELY helpful!!!
Thanks for the tips- I recently got a PM3 which is smooth as silk. Then got a 2 which has more stick than a eagles nest.
I’m gonna try all these different methods. thank you for sharing. I wish I saw this video along time ago.
@@ADAMGILBRT82 you’re welcome!!
Thanks for the tip. It worked for me. I don't know where I got putting oil on the locking system. Cleaning that out really helped.
You’re welcome, glad it helped! 👊🏼
Hey Sean, thanks for the awesome tip, glad I found your video! Had bad lock stick on a brand new Paramilitary 2, which I thought putting oil on the lock bar and blade tang face where the lock meets would help but didn't. I also tried loosening the body screws behind of the pivot screws which also didn't work. I cleaned the blade and lock bar area, sprayed EDCI like you mentioned and no lock stick, amazing! Awesome scales you have there on that PM 2. Thanks for the advice and always sharing brother!
Alcohol cleaning mostly worked on my Para 2, I ordered the oil and will try it when it arrives next week. Thanks
Gnarly! Thanks for all these tips and tricks!
You’re welcome!!!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL Sent a little DM on IG!
Hopefully you can get to it when you have time!
Thanks again! Excited to try in a few hours, just picked up some 91 Isopropyl
Can you explain the mechanism by which oil causes sticking? I’m listening.
The oil causes the lock bar to slide further down, making it dig into the tang of the blade more than it usually would, causing lock stick.
Holy shit dude! Thank you! The EDCI trick worked perfectly!!!
I grabbed one of the SMKW Exclusive M4 PM2's and it had really bad lock stick. Worse case of it I've ever seen on a compression lock. Usually it goes away in a few days of use, but not this time. I hit it with edci and cleared it right up. Amazing. Thank you!
Awesome man!! You’re welcome!!
Bro, I just got mine as well and it is so bad! I wonder if it has something to do with the M4? Thanks for the tips!
@@northwoodsleatherworksco I have a cruwear and it's extremely sticky.
Worked great! Thx for posting this video
You’re welcome!
You definitely know what you are doing. My first experiment was on a P2 China Version, and it worked. I also have the real P2 in Black which I don't want to mesh with, I will only clean it for now and of course I have the P2 left land version S30V. I'm new, but I am a big fan.
Thanks brother! Happy to have you here. 👊🏼😁
i love those pm2 scales, where did you get them?
@@MadYocco they are flytanium Ti scales that a friend customized for me
Sounds like my Bully XL slurping water in the background 😂 your videos are super helpful to us noobs in the knife world 🙏 keep going homie!
Hell yeah. Alcohol wiping and Edci fixed it. Thanks so much.
Glad to hear it!! You’re welcome brother 👊🏼😁
Great vid!! Thanks for the help.
late to the video but damn the q tip worked !! ty
Dayuumm kiiiiddd you're a savage!! Worked like a freakin charm. Good shizz I subbed
I was having really bad lock stick with my Spyderco para three so bad that it would literally hurt my finger I used this method and The knife turned to a buttery smooth opening feeling.
Awesome! Glad it helped ya!
I only have 70% alcohol, will it work?
Yeah, it will do the same thing. Just has a little less strength to break down certain oil, grease or contaminants.
Just found your channel and subbed. Your killing the videos man👍👍. Also gotta say it’s cool to hear your dog in the background. all my videos seem to the same. My dog is just always with me when I’m home.
Worked like a charm! 🤟🔥
Hell yeah I’m glad 👊🏼
Great videos! Just found your channel. I’ll definitely be trying that EDCi trick
Thanks for the tips brother and I recently bought a bottle edci. Can I recommend a video to make. I'm fairly new to knives and I was recently looking for a TH-cam videos describing the internal parts of a knife but most that I found were about the outer parts. What I've learned has been from different videos and Facebook groups. It would be nice to see a video describing the internal parts to include the different types of pivots, washers, bearings, locks.. Etc Another thing I had read on Facebook about people polishing their washers on new spyderco knives. A video on how to do that would good too. Just some ideas of videos you don't see to often. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I have a video on polishing the washers up already! It’s the “improve the action of your Spyderco knife” video but you are welcome And thank you for the feedback!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL Great I'm definitely going to look for that video. Thanks
Great advice the EDCI worked right away. Side note where’d you get your scales from? They look great.
Awesome man glad it worked for you! The Shaman is stock scales that I modified and the PM2 scales are flytanium Ti scales that were modified by Anthony Griffin!
You didn’t even show a shaman what about techno
schlop schlop schlop schlop schlop
Yeah lol I was about to kill him 🤣
Thanks for the video man, good to know my p knife isn't just wacked up the day I got it.
No problem brother! Thanks for watching!
@Cory Welsh it goes away after about a week or two, to a month. So there is hope.
I tried everything for my pm2. It made a loud clicking noise and needed a lot of force to close. I ended up loosening the g10 on the non locking side and it doesn't stick or click anymore
I've owned 3 paras and sold 2 because of lock stick. Im just dealing with the lock stick on my most recent para 3, not sure what's going on, it seems everyone doesn't have issues whereas everyone I touch has bad lock stick on the stop pin every time!
That’s unfortunate, I have only really had it on one spyderco from the factory and a couple times after installing aftermarket scales. I’ve always been able to get rid of it though. Sometimes it can happen because you have a screw over torqued on one side and stupid things like that. You just have to tune them up a little and sometimes they just need to break in a little bit. Idk if you watched the video but these methods always work for me. Good luck!
Thanks bro I hate lock stick it can be dangerous👍✌&💛
I used to think why not just put oil on it that should help duh duh duh. But I think what happens is the oil will actually allow the lock bar to slide too far on the tang while engaging and therefor is digging in rather than just sitting perfectly and in turn can create lock stick
What model knives are those?
Spyderco Paramilitary 2 with custom scales & clip and a Spyderco Spydiechef
second fix worked, so weird that it did but cleaning and tuning my knife didnt.
Thats what im here for 🤷🏻♂️👊🏼😁
Got dayum that dog was thirsty
This channel and his newer vids is prob why i bought a Shaman. SAl should put him on the payroll.
That would be sweet 😂
Maybe one day 🤷🏻♂️😁🙏🏻
I followed your tips to the letter with my new PM2 (that had horrendous lock stick out of the box) then ignored the very first thing you said on the video and oiled the shit out of it with some super light Daiwa reel oil. Problem (FINALLY) solved
Im confused! So are you saying the oil you used fixed it or that cleaning to oil off fixed it? Either way, I’m glad its fixed!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL the addition of oil fixed it. Still silky smooth now.
@@kengarling4353 nice!
That dog was thirsty.
Subbed!!
What’s happening in the background there 🤔💀
That dog is thirsty
Yeah, he used to drive me crazy when I was trying to make videos. Huge dog in a tiny house…. He’s in heaven now and I miss him all the time, he was a great dog. 😒
I don’t think oil has anything to do with lock stick… How could it? Oil UNSTICKS things! I have a LOT of Spydercos, mostly PM2s and Para 3s, and I think I have identified the cause, in many if not all cases, which is a rough surface on the tang of the blade, where it contacts the lock bar. When it is smooth, there is no lock stick; when it is rough or irregular, we have lock stick, sometimes severe! I have found severe lock stick in 2 cases, and both were caused by rough tang mating surfaces. There may be other causes, but this is a bad one… I purchased a FRN version of a Para 3 recently, which has the 2nd worst caseI ever saw. Am in the process of returning it…
It for 100% fact absolutely does but you are free to believe whatever you want. Go test it and find out for yourself.
Oil isn’t the only thing that can cause it but it’s guaranteed to make it worse. Sometimes it just needs to be broken in a little and then you never have the problem again, sometimes the knife needs to be adjusted by disassembly and reassembly to correct alignment. When things are mass produced it happens but there’s never been a knife that I couldn’t resolve lock-stick on. To me its much easier to fix it than go through the hassle of returning but I’m also confident in my abilities to resolve it. If you are not then it’s understandable to return the knife.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL Go test what, oil? What do YOU think happens when the lock bar mating surface is rough? Do you think that is NORMAL? Have you seen it? Oil doesn’t cause sticking, it relieves it.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIALImpossible. I re-watched your video to see if I missed something. I did not! It appears that you think that oil causes metal to stick against metal! Oil is used to reduce or eliminate friction between metal parts! Ask any internal combustion engine! It does not cause sticking. I stand by my understanding, that lock stick is caused by a failure of correct milling, i.e. machining. It has nothing to do with oil.
@@yankee2yankee216 you apparently don’t understand how a knife lock mechanism works. No point in going back and forth, you are convinced that you know more than you do. All you gotta do is read the comments and see what worked for all the other people. I’ve been doing this stuff in real life for a long time. Your “theoretical” approach doesn’t hold up to the real life results. All you have to do is try it for yourself and you’d find out…
Graphite lubricant works wonders. I just put some in my PM2 that had the worst lock stick BY FAR of any knife I've ever handled in my entire life. Sometimes I had to disengage the compression lock with two hands. Now it's butter.
I can also attest to conventional lubricants making things worse. I initially tried KPL.. .WOW, sticky.
Rubbing alcohol no Bueno on the dlc blades tho
It doesn’t harm them in anyway, ive used it daily on any blade im carrying for years to remove tape residue plus other debris and all my dlc blades are good as new. All you have to do to make it look like new is rub some mineral oil on it and wipe it off but it’s not something you have to do
Your dog is very thirsty
🤣🤣 omg I know!! He made me so mad 🤦🏻♂️
Thirsty much?😂
🤦🏻♂️
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL Great video man. I just notice stupid stuff😂👍🏼
My problem is mainly that the lock scrapes the stop pin... Any suggestions? I tried messing with screws but not much I just rotated the stop pin so now I can see the scrape marks. But again it scrapes the stop pin. Making weird noises from time to time. Should I loosen the stp pin screws or tighten them? I'm new to this hobby... 😅
Also there is a black type of residue on the blade inside where the lock meets the blade. I clean it with alcohol it goes away for a little while action improves a little but it comes back...
Hey man, sounds like it could just need to break in a little. That black residue could be fine steel particles from whatever is having trouble clearing. Its hard to give you a definitive solution without having it in front of me but the things you mentioned could all be worth a try. Screws being loosened a hair is probably the best thing to try. You can always use medium loctite if to lock the screw where you need it.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL I appreciate your response mate thanks. I'll try and mess with screws some more... I don't think it's a break in issue I have it for like 2 months and flipped it like a trillion times... 😅
It's just frustrating to not have a butter smooth lock... Keep up the good work love your videos!
If after alcohol it’s still sticky, you can put sharpie on the lock face. It will come off with alcohol so don’t worry.
And even better option is to use pencil on the lock face. Preferably sketching or drafting lead types instead of standard number 2 pencils. 6B or 2HB are the ones I have in my knife maintenance kit. The lead is soft and the powder will fill in microscopic holes in your blade steel which will cause less friction against the lock bar or mechanism. Sharpie won’t pack the holes, but it makes a sheen that causes less friction. Oil soaks in and almost will “swell” the blade steel which makes it bind even more. Especially when it’s steel on titanium and not steel on a steel lock-bar insert.
Or you could just do a proper job like spyderco didn't before it left the factory and take the knife apart and polish the mating surfaces properly.. that way you don't have to run a dry knife with no oil like this guy's suggesting which is a horrible idea. If your knife can't take being well oiled, something's wrong and not oiling it is a poor solution to a mechanical problem. And oil doesn't swell the steel at all, whoever told you that is a damn fool. The only thing the oil can do to make the lock stick worse is quite simple, oil creates LESS friction between the surfaces, which allows the locking bar to travel further into the blade cut out causing stick when tolerances are poor from the factory, this guy's and your "solution" actually creates MORE friction which stops the lock bar going as far into the blade cut out and sticking when tolerances are too tight from factory. That's why lock stick is worse when you flick the knife rather than gently open it, because that force also gives it more energy to go deeper into the lock face. It's common sense. And again refusing to oil a mechanical system or colouring it in with Sharpie or graphite is a fucking horrible "solution" to a mechanical problem, do it right and finish what spyderco didn't. Polish the edges with very fine sand paper and polishing compound removing a tiny bit of material to make the tolerances perfect and keep it well oiled. THAT'S the correct way to deal with a mechanical issue such as this.