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@@MadYocco they are flytanium Ti scales that a friend customized for me

@@joeroe7 I have a new much faster and superior method but haven’t done a video on it yet. Basically you do the figure 8 deal with your finger on top of a kangaroo strop with 1 micron gunny juice diamond emulsion. I wouldn’t recommend using anything below 5-10k grit because you aren’t trying to reshape them or really remove material. They are already refined enough that you don’t have to do this and they do break in nicely with a little time but if you wanted to speed it up or get it just a little bit smoother, The 1 micron gunny juice on a kangaroo strop is by far the best out of everything I have tried!

@@MadYocco Im not sure of anyone regularly producing jigged Spyderco scales. This is a set of flytanium ti scales that my friend customized for me.

@@Steelydan670 yes there is but it doesn’t effect anything from what I have experienced

@@benm2370 its more stable than alot of systems and you don’t have to hold it if you are going at it nice and easy but when you are really trying to move some metal, you might want to hold it

Some find clamping/holding to be a PITA. Would the Pioneer with base be a better choice? Trying to decide between the two. Thanks.

@@clintonmccool2330 you’re very welcome! As far as placing it on the blade I don’t think it’s going to do you any good because the angle on this system is relative to the height of the guide rod and that changes when you compensate the stone thickness. It gets a little confusing if you try to over think it. Its not how I would have designed it but its just the way it is!

​@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIALI get what you're saying. But as far as I can see, the only two angles that matter are 1: the angle of the guide rod (with the stone inserted and actually sitting on the blade) and 2: the angle of the knife itself while it is seated in its final position in the clamps. In other words, the actual angle that the stone is contacting the blade itself. Those should be the only two angles required. I see people mentioning zeroing out the base. That is unnecessary and won't make a difference. For example: if after you get all your angles set and you're ready to start sharpening, you tilt the entire base backwards by like 45° or some crazy angle like that, that wouldn't affect the angle at which the stone is contacting the blade. You could even turn the entire system upside down (🤪) and sharpen like that and the stone would still be hitting the blade at the same angle. The angle of the base is irrelevant. So how I set the angle is: Step 1: adjust the guide rod to the height of the stone, then insert the stone into its holder on the guide rod. Step 2: Measure the angle of the guide rod by placing the angle finder on the guide rod directly above the stone, then zero out the angle finder. Step 3: Now place the angle finder directly centered on the blade itself and adjust the main clamping mechanism to whatever the final target angle might be. To me that's the best way to ensure as accurate an angle as possible. Another thing to consider is if you are measuring the final angle by placing the angle finder on the stem of the clamping mechanism or any other place other than the blade itself, that would imply that the angle that the blade is sitting at is exactly the same for every single knife you ever sharpen, which really isn't the case. It would also require that the blade is sitting at an exact 90° angle to the point at which you are measuring on the clamping mechanism, which is almost never the case. Depending on the style of the blade and how it's clamped, it might be sitting at a slightly different angle then what you would get at some other part of the clamp. That's why I use the actual blade for the final measurement. Maybe I'm just being anal and in the end I'm not so sure that a 1° error would make a huge difference, but I suppose if we're going to all this trouble with all this equipment anyway, might as well shoot for as close to perfect as possible. Hope that makes sense. 👍 But anyway, love your channel and I'm really getting a lot of useful information. I'm also liking how you are meticulous and take your time while sharpening. That's something I need to get better at. Love the examples you give.

@@clintonmccool2330 I’m glad you are getting some useful information and like my demonstrations, I try to always respond to the comments because I do enjoy being able to help people and we can also learn from each other! I tell people all the time that there isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way for any of this, it’s whatever works best for you and allows you to get your desired results. Ive always been a perfectionist for some reason and that’s a gift and a curse. The one certain good thing I have gotten from it is a obsessive insane amount of determination and persistence to chase perfection when it comes to things of interest and sharpening has been one of those things since the very start. All I can offer is my best advice based off my real life trial and error and what I have found to work best for me consistently over hundreds and maybe even thousands of times sharpening with the constant desire to improve. I don’t really go off into all the possible “good” ways to do things and stick to only sharing what I have done personally that I know for 100% certain works for me. Some of it is based off preference and some of it is based off the solid indisputable facts but it is all based upon things that I know can and will work great if you put in enough time and dedication sharpening to be able to really understand the things I try to explain and demonstrate. I do my best to make it as comprehensible as possible because my goal with each video is for it to help the viewers be able to improve their sharpening and at the same time be able to avoid as many mistakes and headaches as possible that I had to learn the hard way because I understand how intimidating, frustrating, discouraging and agonizing it can be along the journey. I know if I can help people get past their struggles that they will get to experience the great joy and gratification of reaching that next level of their sharpening journey. That next level of sharpness that they had never experienced before and the next new level of precision as well as the cosmetic appearance. Us knife lovers are always chasing the next level of performance and capability and when you can do something yourself to greatly improve that, it’s such a awesome experience! And just so you know, I do understand what you’re saying however my next thought would be that the face of the blade might not be as much of a constant as you’re thinking due to the fact that they can be ground in different ways and at different angles and have different spine thickness’s. My thought is if you have the blade clamped as evenly as possible, the flat portion of the clamp assembly is going to be parallel with the center line of your blade from the spine to the apex which should give you a accurate measurement which I assume is why they say that is how you’re supposed to determine the angle. Im sure there is a possibility that there design could have a flaw but as far as I can tell and from what I’ve experienced, there really isn’t a reason for any concern. I can say that after using the KME which keeps the blade constantly parallel with the base and the guide rod height is the only adjustment that happens, it is much easier to determine the angle and you don’t feel like you need to question it. I think because of the oddness of the clamp changing angle and the guide rod being the constant variable and not needing to be level with the base naturally just throws us off and is difficult to try and understand because its not what we are used to seeing when we think of a system set at a certain angle. But with as solid and precisely machined and engineered as the Tsprof systems are and the fact that it has the built in stone compensator and clamps that can adjust to match the angle of the blade grind in order to make complete contact on both sides like a perfectly fitted jig, I wouldn’t worry too much about that. Especially with as many variables there are when it comes to your own inputs into the system such as pressure and the consistency or inconsistency of that pressure and where and when you apply it or whether you have the blade clamped as even and stable as possible or even if the clamp is perfectly calibrated just to name a few! When you consider things like that which can all affect the outcome, it kind of puts it into perspective as being not so significant. And hey, if your theory is correct, maybe the angle you think you are sharpening at is 1 degree higher or lower than what the angle cube is telling you but atleast it will be a constant and consistent thing across all knives and if thats the biggest discrepancy in the system than that’s pretty damn good in my humble opinion! I do greatly appreciate your feedback and perspectives and wish you the best of luck with your sharpening journey and I’m always here if you need me! And one last thing, ⚠️SLOW DOWNNNN‼️and take your time brother… do that in combination with really being conciseness of every move you make with that stone and closely watch what it is doing on your edge and the pressure you are applying and try to eliminate all the variables of your inputs and become as consistent and precise as you can be and don’t settle for something just because you are running out of patience! If you need to walk away and come back with a fresh head and fresh eyes, do it! Thats what I do with pretty much every knife. It makes a ton of difference!

Great question, I actually addressed this in the last “tips” video on reprofiling. Id highly encourage you to check that out and go through my sharpening playlist where I put all my sharpening tips and tutorials. But the short answer is that I work my way down after I get the heel sharpened all the way and profile even and symmetrical. If 13° is my end goal or even 12°, ill start a couple degrees higher around 15-16°. If its a knife other than spyderco or something im not as familiar with I’ll typically start close to whatever it was sharpened at from the factory, maybe a couple degrees lower but it kinda depends on the test passes and how much I need to correct the profile. The last video I did on it explains it better though.

@@ADAMGILBRT82 you’re welcome!!

@@lombro1262 there are no ceramic bearings that fit but you really don’t need to do any of this 75% of the time they will break in perfectly smooth on their own. For the ones that don’t I have a new quicker simpler method but most people don’t have the required items.

@@benm2370 im not sure, I never used the included keys but the stock clamps are 4mm hex and the center clamp I bought uses a 2.5mm and 3mm hex

@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL Thanks. What do you use for tools?

@benm2370 my favorite hex drivers are MIP but the ones I use most of the time is just a set with aluminum handles I got off amazon. If you get a set that goes from 1.5mm-4mm you’ll be good. Just make sure it has a 2.5 in it.

@@ADAMGILBRT82 thats crazy!

@@ADAMGILBRT82 you’re welcome brother!

@@ADAMGILBRT82 yes, its good but im not a huge fan of it