I got lucky and bought the last 1.1.4 board with smoothers before they sold out. Just got it and installed it today! Using it now and flashed it for an EZABL
Nerys and a couple others have tested the Creality magnetic build surfaces at 100c and have not experienced a loss of magnetic flux at that temp. Usually flexible magnets are damaged because the binding material breaks down and not because of a loss of magnetic flux.
This is nothing like coreXY. Its just Cartesian printer with printing head moving on XY axis and bed on Z axis. Why not glas surface ? Glass is not that easy to print for beginners, magnetic pad is good for removing printed objects but after heating it to 100 degree it still holds but it is weak. My main issue was bed wobble up and down on fast prints, it would benefit second Z axis that is tied to first one with belt. Tip: You can put filament holder on the other side of V-slot between rear and front beam, it will save some space on filament side.
The antibacklash nut is mounted upside down. As it is, the spring is trying to lift the bed up to remove the backlash, it should be the other way around, so gravity is pulling the bed down, and the nut is helping gravity, by also pressing the bed down, by pressing the nut up.
It was nice to see an honest review, even though you were sent the Ender 5 and did not have to buy it. Thank you very much for that. I don't really need the extra 50mm in height and was wondering whether it was worth getting the Ender 5 or buying the 3 and spending the money I saved on filament or upgrades to the 3. Thanks again for the honest review
My path if I had this printer: MKS Gen L & TMC drivers. By the time I ordered their "upgrade" board or put smoothers on this one I could get new electronics & have a better mainboard overall. They still don't get it (or care?) even after all the youtube videos produced about general shortcomings.
Good but honest review. I have 2 Ender 5's and I love that they come with the magnetic bed sheets and not the glass! My 2nd Ender 5 had the exact same problem with the assembly as you described, had loosen the corners but first print was flawless.
Chuck, Have you tested the magnetic bed to failure? I've had no issues with my Creality bed running at 100° for at least 40 hours. Everyone talks about it, but I can't tell where this 80° max temperature figure is coming from.
This comes from the nature how magnets work. A magnet will lose his magnetic force on higher temps. Is the temp to high high, you destroy the magnets for ever. Take a magnet, put it on a steel plate and heat it up with a heatgun and you will see what happen
I have not tested to failure but I did test on my Ender 3 Pro and the bed hold reduced at higher temps. I didn’t want to destroy it so I stopped. Might be a good video if I could get more detailed specs from Creality. Also would need to test more than a couple. Buildtak uses a higher temp magnet but that’s why the cost is so much higher.
I'd like to see a review to myth bust or not the 80 degree limit claim as well. The provided Mag bed does make PLA release easy, and wouls be great if it could handle ABS, to help justify Creality price.
I think the big thing is that the Ender 5 design *should* alleviate a lot of the quirks and assembly problems that the Ender 3 can have. I've finally had enough of constantly having to fiddle with the Ender 3 to make it work right, ordered the Ender 5 today. Hopefully it will be better.
I have had my Ender 5 for almost 2 months and am very happy with it. I did add a number of mods ( add ons is a better way to state it) from Thingiverse and the Creality Polypropylene Build Plate. This solved my first layer adhesion problems. Except for these changes it is stock. I was looking at the two trees core xy printer, but see problems with it, no open source and no upgrade for the board.. I am thinking of ordering another Ender 5 and modding it, with a new control board from TH3D, Capricorn boden tubing, etc, just to see what these do as far as improving the prints. This is a fun printer to work with and in my opinion well worth the price
Trying to decide on my first 3D printer and seems like a lot of people prefer the Ender 3 and not sure if that's just because it's been around longer or not. I can get an Ender 3 v2 for $237 @Amazon or a Ender 5 DIY for $199 @Banggood both free shipping....is the 3v2 still preferred over the the 5 at those prices? It's hard for a beginner not really knowing the meaningful differences EDIT: Banggood claims the 5 has a Meanwell PSU as well
@@calic6170 still haven’t gotten anything yet. Think I’m going to save up for a Prusa since I don’t like even a slight risk of burning down my house to save money on a 3D printer.
Nice review Chuck! I got the Ender 5 as my first printer back in January and have since been enjoying learning about 3d printing and upgrading it along the way. I found it very easy to set up and the stability of the machine really helped me get working prints with minimal effort as a total newbie. Now that I've had some months to experiment and try more complex prints and materials, I'm still very pleased with the machine overall. My only real issue is that I have a warped bed, with a couple layers worth (at .12) dip dead centre. Removing the bed, heating coils, and bending the bed back flat isn't really something I have the tools or inclination to do so I'm kinda stuck with it for now, but looking at either a glass /mirror build plate or the whambam flex plate (I really enjoy the ease of just popping the prints off) as a solution. I've spent a bunch of time printing little fixes and bought some upgrades already which some might not agree with and say I should have just bought a better machine to start with, but upgrading and tinkering is half the fun, right? :) Capricorn tubing is on, MKS Gen L and 2208's are waiting to go in and looking to silence that Landy PSU (or investigate for a different one) and controller board fan at the same time. Anyway, all that to say, it was a very gratifying experience to be able to go from zero experience and just the information gained from yours and others' videos to actual printing, 1 hour after unboxing. Thanks for the content!
Hey! im new into 3D printing and im a bit scepical. Atm im deciding between Ender 3 Pro and a Ender 5. But im not really sure if the 80€ more are worth it. (Ender 3 cost 199 and Ender 5 277€ here.) Especially i want to use them for Tabletop STuff like D&D, TBE or simple boardgames. And im also perfectionstic in that stuff.... Im also like to set it up and it work without needing to do much modding on it. It sounds sometimes that Ender 3 needs a loooooot of work to have them run smoothly and well. While a friend of mine said the Ender 5 is just setup and it prints exactly how it should be.
Hi, I got my Ender 3 (non-Pro) about a week ago and I must say that it was printing surprisingly well right out of the box. It is my first printer so I'm a total noob in the 3D printing world but I do embedded electronics and programming for a living so getting to know the machine was really a matter of minutes. It's simple, but built rather well. Sure, it's good to do the basics like checking if there's some play in the rollers (easy to adjust with the included wrench), check the Y-axis belt tension (that comes preinstalled) etc., but I count that as a part of the assembly. There are a few commonly known printable mods, one of which I'd say is a must-have (anything that solves feeding the filament from the top-mounted spool holder), the rest are just nice-to-have. The Pro version has a better (wider) Y rail and a MeanWell power supply. Both are nice, neither is necessary. In any case, the firmware needs to be updated to the latest stock Marlin for the thermal runaway protection to work. You can also enable auto/manual mesh bed leveling, which is nice, but it takes some effort to squeeze that into the stock controller. Also, the machine is rather noisy. The steppers whine as expected, but the cooling fans are IMHO worse, especially those 40 mm fans on a hot-end and in the electronics box. This may not be an issue for many people, but I have the printer close to my daily workplace and the noise was really annoying. My machine is already heavily modified (yup, after a week or so... but that's just me, I love to tinker), mostly to tackle the noise issue. Now it runs a 32-bit SKR 1.3 controller with TMC2208 drivers, hot-end fan has been replaced with a silent Noctua, the electronics are on the rear along with a RPi 3 for OctoPrint (rear electronics box designed by Teaching Tech) and the PSU fan has got a nice silencer. Now I could sleep beside the thing. :) Most of the time the only noise it makes now comes from fast extruder retractions and the little part cooling blower fan. But that's no issue.
Simple solution for the dropping z-axis: Buy an ledscrew with a lead of 2 mm. And anti-backslash nut is for avoiding backslash (if you use leadscrews in x and y directions) and not of any use for a z-axis. Changing the leadscrew to a lead of 2mm the printbed would resist 4 times the force before dropping. Of course you would have to change steps/mm by the factor of 4 also (but you have to change the firmware anyway to implement thermal runaway corectly). The one point mostly missing is ABL. In production it would cost less than $2 to add that. There is some very simple solution on deltas: a smal probe, a membran switch you connect to a connector at the printhead. Then you do a calibration, store the results and remove the probe. Actually a very easy way, as the membrane has exactly the thickness a piece of paper have - so you get the perfect first layer without any futher adjustments. Of course crealitys controller lacks of an input for that. But you can use the well known pin 27. You define the pin 27 as "max z endstop" and redefine the former "max z endstop" as "min z endstop". The limit swich for z goes to the botom, the home position would be botom down - much more practical, because cleaning the bed and maybe prepearing it with adhesive is much more comfortable there. New calibration method should be: 1. Add probe manualy and start calibration 2. home to botom 3. move to the position of the left backward leveling screw and measure z-hight of the printer 4. move the bed a centimeter down, move to the position of the right backward screw 5. get up a centimeter to the nozzleprobe, if bed hits probe before, stop and ask user to screw the bed down on right backward corner - after user confirmed he had done this, repeat step 5 6. ask user to turn the screw until probe triggers (signal in display - sadly the buzzer is out of functions, creality realy should redisgn the board). 7. repeat 4-6 for the screws in the front. 8. store the measured z-hight as new printhight for soft z min endstop 9. make a mesh bed leveling and store the mash 10. remove probe As you mostly nead recalibration only after moving the printer, changing the nozzle or the bed, it would be quite easy. Sadly these sort of calibration for is not in normal marlin as far as I know, so creality (or someone else) have to do some programing. But it would realy improve the printer without making production noticable more expansive.
He made a ref to the temps on his moving an ender 3 printing a new fan shroud and touch using abs at 100 on a stock ender 3 with the creality magnetic bed on it and refers to other post on the print bed
What really turned me off is the fact that the original CR-10 isn't that much more expensive ($379). I'd much rather have extra print volume than a box frame.
I started years ago with a cheap monoprice printer and for the last few years I have been using a Printrbot Simple Metal. After many repairs I have another blown autolevel sensor and am ready for something new. The plan is a few printers for my gaming miniatures and terrain. I have seen your Ender 3 ($179) vs Ender 5 ($319) and Ender 3 vs CR-10 Mini ($289). What are your thoughts now given all 3? Is the Ender 5 worth the money over the CR-10 Mini?
Ender 3 is a great Printer for the money. I would recommend it for miniatures. CR-10 Mini is great for larger prints. I’m not sold on Ender 5 at that price. Not sure a non moving bed is worth that much extra.
One other thing I do not like about the 5 is line of sight to the build plate. When checking the first layer the top extrusion frame is right in the way of the bed so you cant see anything. I bought the Ender 5 just to make a Direct Drive kit for it, which has worked great, but would prefer Ender 3s any day.
Fully agreed on the line of sight to the nozzle, very annoying sometimes trying to tell how the print is going. Looking at that front extrusion, the printer seems sturdy enough that it could be removed entirely, might try that some time and see how rigid the frame is.
@@osbert That is a good idea to remove it. I think I would prefer to move it down some to keep the X stability. The hole to mount it is already there in the correct location. Could use a M5 T Nut and a shorter bolt to move it a couple inches down on the front side of the machine.
@@abarasabwehttam Yup that looks like it could work well! would also be nice to keep it in the front somewhere so there's more places to attach accessories. Definitely going to be printing a new heatsink and part cooling fan duct assembly soon, that should hopefully make a big impact on visibility too.
@@osbert I made direct drive kit and another guy posted a new version of the Hero Me on Thingiverse to fit with the kit. I went a step further and I put a 5015 fan on the hotend cooling. I rarely run part cooling as this causes poor layer cohesion.
3:57 my Ender 3 Pro was checked for calibration in X, Y & Z and good. I also calibrated esteps for the extruder. But why is the Z measurement of test cube always slightly less, where X and Y always spot on? I do get elephant foot. But not sure what is causing it and shorter Z height. The bed is at 70c for PETG and I have a nice first layer. If I turn bed down to 50c, not good for PETG staying on bed. Some 100% infill I get lifting on the corners.
This might just be your layer height. If the cube height is not a multiple of your layer height then the slider will finish the piece just slightly under. For example: if the cube is 10mm but your printing at 0.3 then the cube will measure 9.9mm.
Now let me ask you this, are you saying the Ender 3 is better because of the circuit board, or is it the fact that the Ender 3 has better print quality? Do they have the same print quality?
Please do not say corexy with this printer. It is a standard fair gantry cartesian with dropping Z-bed. Corexy is entirely about the math in how it places the carriage in space due to a coordinate transform because xy motors are coupled in corexy (similar to how delta is a three tower coordinate transform). People throw around the term corexy. But this is not one. Nice review as usual... But every time you said corexy I had to cringe.
I think I'll stick to my Ender-3 for now. Thanks Chuck! Great Review! On a side note, I wonder who is going to be the first manufacturer/reseller that is going to take trade-ins? :-) I don't need more than the 2 printers I have right now, but if someone would give me a $100 trade-in value for my Ender-3 I'd upgrade to an Ender-3 Pro, or maybe a CR-10. Or better yet, a Prusa MK3! :-) Just saying....
Thanks, Chuck. I am looking at buying an Ender 5 or and Ender 3x. I like that the 3x comes with the glass bed already. I was leaning towards the Ender 5, but for about $90 less, I may just go with the Ender 3x. Much like you, I don't care for the magnetic sheet. I feel the 3x may be the better choice now that I watched this video.
Currently trying to decide my next printer, either a Cr10s Pro or a Ender 5 Plus. Either way I will get a Skr Mini E3 and V6 hotend (probably just reuse the V6 and Bondtech BMG from my current printer).
They should made a cheap 32-bit motherboard (real R&D, yes!) with changable drivers and sell the whole thing for 400$... Then it could rip apart the whole 3d printers' market! :) 32-bit MB are very few so they're ridicilously pricey! This has to be changed or we'll not see a new 3d-printing revolution soon. I'm talking about installing numerous sensors on 3d printers so the machines will be "seeing" what they print and correcting parameters on fly. The injection gasoline engines are pretty old already. The process (in good engines) is controlled via a microcontroller. So how long the consumer 3d printers will be borning without it?
CHEP, great video! Looking at 4:36, not sure if is possible to do another turn, maybe a stronger spring instead. Please let us know either way, if it works, It could help for other printers as well, I adjusted my CR-10 so good that now the gantry is falling, has no play though, so I'm considering that anti-backlash to make it stop falling.
7:26 "and it will drop a little bit" It's like a brick was placed on the bed. HA! That really seems like an obvious problem. Bed leveling must drive one crazy with that much bed dropping. The Ender 3 seems much better, except for it being a Y axis bed slinger for tall bulky fast prints. Screw the ABS enclosure mod, I think these need modded with an umbrella holder... so you can print in the rain! : /
Of course it got the cheaper drivers and power supply. Would've cost quite a bit more if it used the better stuff. If the 5 don't improve in quality or speed of the print over the earlier iterations, I see no reason to go for it. The build volume alone is not worth the increase in price.
i have had mine for 1 year now..actually the extra 2 inch plus height allows you to build much larger models...i even made a 12'' long air boat all in one piece from petg...i did up grade tubing and bed... this style printer shows its advantage building taller models...bed does not shake...this type machine is more stable and very easy to keep adjusted... bed stays level much better than with a cr10 or ender 3 type design... i think i will buy another one over an ender 3 if i need another printer... i do have a cr10 clone that has been a real pain..i think its motherboard has to be replaced...
You should do a video testing the magnetic sheet at higher bed Temps. I've seen tons of videos where people say they've printed with the bed well over 90 degrees and it didn't affect the magnet at all.
The market is saturated at this price point. I agree, the Ender 5, as is, isnt a good value at $319. If they upgrade the board and sold it for $250, yes. For $30 more ($349 with $50 coupon currently) on AliExpress, you can get the Artillery Sidewinder X1, which is 300x300x400 and has been reviewed very well by others. That's what I'd go for (and did) for at this price point.
@@24KG24 Well, it was too good to be true. They asked me to cancel my order and pay $399 because the $349 price with coupon was a mistake. I cancelled my order and wont be buying anything from them.
I have a choice of the E3 Pro for $200 or E5 for $250. What would you do? I'm more or less a beginner. I own MP Select Mini v2, and have tried the E3 pro and a few resin printers. I look forward to a response!
I'm thinking Ender 3 v2 will be moddable since Creality tends to allow for that in their printers but we dont know what extra features v2 will have over v1 and as far as I know we dont know when V2 hits the streets. Is it 2020 or 2021? There is still a lot that could happen in 2020. Right now all the talk is about their kickstarter for the Ender 6.
Hi Chep, First I want to thank you for the per model setting guide, I now use it all the time. I just brought the cr20-pro and I wondered if you have seen one your self ? I also have 2 x ender 3 and I wanted to get a higher spec printer and this had all the features I wanted without spending prusa money. I am a little sad it still has the plastic extruder stepper mount and it came with the magnetic removable print surface like the ender 5. It took no time to setup and the BLtouch is working very well.
@@FilamentFriday is does not look to be that popular at the moment. Is there anything you would like to see printed on it perhaps a chep cube ? The demo files that came on the SD card are not setup for auto bed level so you just cant print and have to setup cura first with the g92 code.
Advice please, Getting ready to buy my first "real" 3d printer Currently have a Da Vinci Mini. Creality is running a special on the ender 3 pro for 229, or I can get a CR 10 Mini for either 289 from Banggood or 329 from amazon. What direction would you suggest? and is Banggood ok to purchase from?
If you are in USA the Banggood USA warehouse ships within 3-5 days so it’s a good savings. Amazon is good if you need an easier return policy. Either is a good printer.
The um gantry like printer must be more quiet with tmc2208 and easier to enclosure but if you say there’s jot much of a difference then it doesn’t make much sense. I’d love a core xy for more print speed but mostly less noise and vibration
Thanks for the video! I just liked and subscribed although I did have a quick question. In your opinion, would you recommend the 5 over the 3 for a beginner? Will I be missing out on a ton of features by going with the 3 ? Thanks again for your time. I just wanted to create my own figurines/toys to sell.
So I’m about to buy an Ender 3, I’m planing on fixing small things like the warped bed and filament extruder. If I were to do some other upgrades, do you think I could get equal, if not better prints then the ender 5 and maybe even a cr-10? I already have a 5, but honestly just don’t have the money to bust out at the moment. Thanks!
I'll take a flexible print bed any day over a hard piece of glass. And why do I need capricorn tubing for ABS, I've been printing with ABS for over a year now using regular PTFE tubing?
@@cakeeee4 I think I understand, you guys are talking about replacing the tubing inside the Hotend? I use an all metal Hotend. I thought CHEP was talking about replacing the PTFE tube that goes into the Hotend from the extruder motor.
@@thesusboomerroblox6516 terrible, the printer only lasted a few days before developing a fault and had to be returned. I've now bought a Prusa mk3S instead and it's much better and easier to use 👍
Im new to the idea if getting a 3d printer so sorry if I say something that i don't understand. But do you know how well the endo 5r does with flexible feliment?
Hey Chuck, have loved or Video's since I got my Ender 5 Pro back in Oct 2020. I have been wanting to know and ask you because I see you use a lot of the printer that the print bed move front and back on the on Y axis. Is that something you find better or potentially a problem when printing to have the bed move back and forth vs be stationary like on the Ender 5 Pro, where it just goes up and down on the Z ?
Hi Chep, may i ask you what was your impression on the most significant difference innbetween these 2 build. The box-frame vs the H frame. Does'n it suppose to give more stability or accuracy with a non sliding bed?
@@FilamentFriday awesome thank you I'm barely looking into a printer so I know little about them..im going to end up with the ender 3 after watching your review
Hi Chuck, I'm looking to buy my first 3D printer. I'm considering the Ender 5 or the CR-20. Either one is within my price goal. Do you think the 'core-xy style' of Ender 5 is preferable to the bed moving in the y-axis like CR-20? Thanks!
@@FilamentFriday Tests of the Ghost 4 so far have been rather positive afaik. It has a very sturdy, well constructed frame and superior features to an Ender 5 at similar price. Also, it seems to be an original construction, not just another clone of a clone. But often, the devil lies in the details.
Other channels have stated that the magnetic bed on the creality pro series works fine up to 100 degrees. Can you please demonstrate the bed problems you are encountering with the magnetic bed?
Is there someway I could pay to have a sample made so I can see if printing detail is suitable to me instead of going thru ordering, assembling, printing and not being satisfied and return it to supplier ?
Hello, great video! i want to ask since, i am totally new to 3D printing and im looking to buy my first printer, what should i watch out for what is important in buying these printers? im thinking about buying ender 3/pro or 5/pro and i dont know whats best for the buck from these 4. I want to print mainly figures and things like mechanical locks and that stuff. thanks in advance for reply!
Do you say that ender 3's print quality is the same as ender 5's and there is no difference in print speed? So, it will be better to buy ender 3 (pro) and get a glass and some pla/petg?
Chep, I've had a problem recently on my ender 5 plus. During a print it will just stop and retract all the filament then it starts back up and prints in mid air without filament because it retracted it all. Do you know what may be causing this?
so what should i get for my first printer? where i live they are selling the ender 5 pro around 30-40 dollars more than the ender 3 v2 so i am considering getting the ender 5
hello,thanks for all the videos,I would like to print christmas ornaments with photo in it,what printer would you recommand,I can't find a video,thanks
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The $319 price is a 2-day special from Creality. Check description for link.
I got lucky and bought the last 1.1.4 board with smoothers before they sold out. Just got it and installed it today! Using it now and flashed it for an EZABL
Nerys and a couple others have tested the Creality magnetic build surfaces at 100c and have not experienced a loss of magnetic flux at that temp. Usually flexible magnets are damaged because the binding material breaks down and not because of a loss of magnetic flux.
It's not a CoreXY or HBOT. It's a straight Cartesian machine like the Ender 3.
good catch!
This is nothing like coreXY. Its just Cartesian printer with printing head moving on XY axis and bed on Z axis. Why not glas surface ? Glass is not that easy to print for beginners, magnetic pad is good for removing printed objects but after heating it to 100 degree it still holds but it is weak. My main issue was bed wobble up and down on fast prints, it would benefit second Z axis that is tied to first one with belt.
Tip: You can put filament holder on the other side of V-slot between rear and front beam, it will save some space on filament side.
The antibacklash nut is mounted upside down. As it is, the spring is trying to lift the bed up to remove the backlash, it should be the other way around, so gravity is pulling the bed down, and the nut is helping gravity, by also pressing the bed down, by pressing the nut up.
Came here just for this.
It was nice to see an honest review, even though you were sent the Ender 5 and did not have to buy it.
Thank you very much for that. I don't really need the extra 50mm in height and was wondering whether it was worth getting the Ender 5 or buying the 3 and spending the money I saved on filament or upgrades to the 3.
Thanks again for the honest review
Wow thats brutally honest! Tysm
Thanks for the review. This helps me make a decision on which one to buy.
Which one did you decide?
My path if I had this printer:
MKS Gen L & TMC drivers.
By the time I ordered their "upgrade" board or put smoothers on this one I could get new electronics & have a better mainboard overall. They still don't get it (or care?) even after all the youtube videos produced about general shortcomings.
Good but honest review.
I have 2 Ender 5's and I love that they come with the magnetic bed sheets and not the glass! My 2nd Ender 5 had the exact same problem with the assembly as you described, had loosen the corners but first print was flawless.
Chuck, Have you tested the magnetic bed to failure? I've had no issues with my Creality bed running at 100° for at least 40 hours. Everyone talks about it, but I can't tell where this 80° max temperature figure is coming from.
This comes from the nature how magnets work. A magnet will lose his magnetic force on higher temps. Is the temp to high high, you destroy the magnets for ever. Take a magnet, put it on a steel plate and heat it up with a heatgun and you will see what happen
I have not tested to failure but I did test on my Ender 3 Pro and the bed hold reduced at higher temps. I didn’t want to destroy it so I stopped. Might be a good video if I could get more detailed specs from Creality. Also would need to test more than a couple. Buildtak uses a higher temp magnet but that’s why the cost is so much higher.
I'd like to see a review to myth bust or not the 80 degree limit claim as well. The provided Mag bed does make PLA release easy, and wouls be great if it could handle ABS, to help justify Creality price.
what about the ender 5 plus? I'd love to see a review on it because it really brings new things, as crealiti 2.2 board and bl touch from factory
I think the big thing is that the Ender 5 design *should* alleviate a lot of the quirks and assembly problems that the Ender 3 can have. I've finally had enough of constantly having to fiddle with the Ender 3 to make it work right, ordered the Ender 5 today. Hopefully it will be better.
I have had my Ender 5 for almost 2 months and am very happy with it. I did add a number of mods ( add ons is a better way to state it) from Thingiverse and the Creality Polypropylene Build Plate. This solved my first layer adhesion problems. Except for these changes it is stock. I was looking at the two trees core xy printer, but see problems with it, no open source and no upgrade for the board.. I am thinking of ordering another Ender 5 and modding it, with a new control board from TH3D, Capricorn boden tubing, etc, just to see what these do as far as improving the prints. This is a fun printer to work with and in my opinion well worth the price
Trying to decide on my first 3D printer and seems like a lot of people prefer the Ender 3 and not sure if that's just because it's been around longer or not.
I can get an Ender 3 v2 for $237 @Amazon or a Ender 5 DIY for $199 @Banggood both free shipping....is the 3v2 still preferred over the the 5 at those prices? It's hard for a beginner not really knowing the meaningful differences
EDIT: Banggood claims the 5 has a Meanwell PSU as well
What did you end up getting? Are those US prices?
@@calic6170 still haven’t gotten anything yet. Think I’m going to save up for a Prusa since I don’t like even a slight risk of burning down my house to save money on a 3D printer.
What I heard was they are using the Landy power supplies at the moment because of supply issues with the Meanwell power supplies.
What should I buy between ender 3 v2 and ender 5 plus?
Great and honest review, man. Thanks a lot! 😊
Nice review Chuck! I got the Ender 5 as my first printer back in January and have since been enjoying learning about 3d printing and upgrading it along the way.
I found it very easy to set up and the stability of the machine really helped me get working prints with minimal effort as a total newbie. Now that I've had some months to experiment and try more complex prints and materials, I'm still very pleased with the machine overall. My only real issue is that I have a warped bed, with a couple layers worth (at .12) dip dead centre.
Removing the bed, heating coils, and bending the bed back flat isn't really something I have the tools or inclination to do so I'm kinda stuck with it for now, but looking at either a glass /mirror build plate or the whambam flex plate (I really enjoy the ease of just popping the prints off) as a solution.
I've spent a bunch of time printing little fixes and bought some upgrades already which some might not agree with and say I should have just bought a better machine to start with, but upgrading and tinkering is half the fun, right? :) Capricorn tubing is on, MKS Gen L and 2208's are waiting to go in and looking to silence that Landy PSU (or investigate for a different one) and controller board fan at the same time.
Anyway, all that to say, it was a very gratifying experience to be able to go from zero experience and just the information gained from yours and others' videos to actual printing, 1 hour after unboxing. Thanks for the content!
Hey! im new into 3D printing and im a bit scepical.
Atm im deciding between Ender 3 Pro and a Ender 5.
But im not really sure if the 80€ more are worth it. (Ender 3 cost 199 and Ender 5 277€ here.)
Especially i want to use them for Tabletop STuff like D&D, TBE or simple boardgames. And im also perfectionstic in that stuff....
Im also like to set it up and it work without needing to do much modding on it. It sounds sometimes that Ender 3 needs a loooooot of work to have them run smoothly and well. While a friend of mine said the Ender 5 is just setup and it prints exactly how it should be.
Hi, I got my Ender 3 (non-Pro) about a week ago and I must say that it was printing surprisingly well right out of the box. It is my first printer so I'm a total noob in the 3D printing world but I do embedded electronics and programming for a living so getting to know the machine was really a matter of minutes. It's simple, but built rather well. Sure, it's good to do the basics like checking if there's some play in the rollers (easy to adjust with the included wrench), check the Y-axis belt tension (that comes preinstalled) etc., but I count that as a part of the assembly. There are a few commonly known printable mods, one of which I'd say is a must-have (anything that solves feeding the filament from the top-mounted spool holder), the rest are just nice-to-have. The Pro version has a better (wider) Y rail and a MeanWell power supply. Both are nice, neither is necessary. In any case, the firmware needs to be updated to the latest stock Marlin for the thermal runaway protection to work. You can also enable auto/manual mesh bed leveling, which is nice, but it takes some effort to squeeze that into the stock controller. Also, the machine is rather noisy. The steppers whine as expected, but the cooling fans are IMHO worse, especially those 40 mm fans on a hot-end and in the electronics box. This may not be an issue for many people, but I have the printer close to my daily workplace and the noise was really annoying. My machine is already heavily modified (yup, after a week or so... but that's just me, I love to tinker), mostly to tackle the noise issue. Now it runs a 32-bit SKR 1.3 controller with TMC2208 drivers, hot-end fan has been replaced with a silent Noctua, the electronics are on the rear along with a RPi 3 for OctoPrint (rear electronics box designed by Teaching Tech) and the PSU fan has got a nice silencer. Now I could sleep beside the thing. :) Most of the time the only noise it makes now comes from fast extruder retractions and the little part cooling blower fan. But that's no issue.
Simple solution for the dropping z-axis: Buy an ledscrew with a lead of 2 mm. And anti-backslash nut is for avoiding backslash (if you use leadscrews in x and y directions) and not of any use for a z-axis.
Changing the leadscrew to a lead of 2mm the printbed would resist 4 times the force before dropping. Of course you would have to change steps/mm by the factor of 4 also (but you have to change the firmware anyway to implement thermal runaway corectly).
The one point mostly missing is ABL. In production it would cost less than $2 to add that. There is some very simple solution on deltas: a smal probe, a membran switch you connect to a connector at the printhead. Then you do a calibration, store the results and remove the probe. Actually a very easy way, as the membrane has exactly the thickness a piece of paper have - so you get the perfect first layer without any futher adjustments.
Of course crealitys controller lacks of an input for that. But you can use the well known pin 27. You define the pin 27 as "max z endstop" and redefine the former "max z endstop" as "min z endstop". The limit swich for z goes to the botom, the home position would be botom down - much more practical, because cleaning the bed and maybe prepearing it with adhesive is much more comfortable there.
New calibration method should be:
1. Add probe manualy and start calibration
2. home to botom
3. move to the position of the left backward leveling screw and measure z-hight of the printer
4. move the bed a centimeter down, move to the position of the right backward screw
5. get up a centimeter to the nozzleprobe, if bed hits probe before, stop and ask user to screw the bed down on right backward corner - after user confirmed he had done this, repeat step 5
6. ask user to turn the screw until probe triggers (signal in display - sadly the buzzer is out of functions, creality realy should redisgn the board).
7. repeat 4-6 for the screws in the front.
8. store the measured z-hight as new printhight for soft z min endstop
9. make a mesh bed leveling and store the mash
10. remove probe
As you mostly nead recalibration only after moving the printer, changing the nozzle or the bed, it would be quite easy.
Sadly these sort of calibration for is not in normal marlin as far as I know, so creality (or someone else) have to do some programing. But it would realy improve the printer without making production noticable more expansive.
He made a ref to the temps on his moving an ender 3 printing a new fan shroud and touch using abs at 100 on a stock ender 3 with the creality magnetic bed on it and refers to other post on the print bed
Goo dcc review, glad you reviewed it , guess I'll keep looking, thanks for sharing....Jack
I think if I was going to hog up that much printer space I would put the CR-10 mini on the bench like you have in the background.
£175 to my door here in the uk on ebay 9 left uk stock
What really turned me off is the fact that the original CR-10 isn't that much more expensive ($379). I'd much rather have extra print volume than a box frame.
I started years ago with a cheap monoprice printer and for the last few years I have been using a Printrbot Simple Metal. After many repairs I have another blown autolevel sensor and am ready for something new. The plan is a few printers for my gaming miniatures and terrain. I have seen your Ender 3 ($179) vs Ender 5 ($319) and Ender 3 vs CR-10 Mini ($289). What are your thoughts now given all 3? Is the Ender 5 worth the money over the CR-10 Mini?
Ender 3 is a great Printer for the money. I would recommend it for miniatures. CR-10 Mini is great for larger prints. I’m not sold on Ender 5 at that price. Not sure a non moving bed is worth that much extra.
Good video chep, well for the price im still loving my ender 3...
One other thing I do not like about the 5 is line of sight to the build plate. When checking the first layer the top extrusion frame is right in the way of the bed so you cant see anything. I bought the Ender 5 just to make a Direct Drive kit for it, which has worked great, but would prefer Ender 3s any day.
Fully agreed on the line of sight to the nozzle, very annoying sometimes trying to tell how the print is going. Looking at that front extrusion, the printer seems sturdy enough that it could be removed entirely, might try that some time and see how rigid the frame is.
@@osbert That is a good idea to remove it. I think I would prefer to move it down some to keep the X stability. The hole to mount it is already there in the correct location. Could use a M5 T Nut and a shorter bolt to move it a couple inches down on the front side of the machine.
@@abarasabwehttam Yup that looks like it could work well! would also be nice to keep it in the front somewhere so there's more places to attach accessories. Definitely going to be printing a new heatsink and part cooling fan duct assembly soon, that should hopefully make a big impact on visibility too.
@@osbert I made direct drive kit and another guy posted a new version of the Hero Me on Thingiverse to fit with the kit. I went a step further and I put a 5015 fan on the hotend cooling. I rarely run part cooling as this causes poor layer cohesion.
Even though this is old, Glass beds are garbage, PEI spring steel, but not crappy glass, it slows down everything waiting on prints to come off etc.
3:57 my Ender 3 Pro was checked for calibration in X, Y & Z and good. I also calibrated esteps for the extruder.
But why is the Z measurement of test cube always slightly less, where X and Y always spot on? I do get elephant foot. But not sure what is causing it and shorter Z height. The bed is at 70c for PETG and I have a nice first layer. If I turn bed down to 50c, not good for PETG staying on bed. Some 100% infill I get lifting on the corners.
This might just be your layer height. If the cube height is not a multiple of your layer height then the slider will finish the piece just slightly under. For example: if the cube is 10mm but your printing at 0.3 then the cube will measure 9.9mm.
Now let me ask you this, are you saying the Ender 3 is better because of the circuit board, or is it the fact that the Ender 3 has better print quality? Do they have the same print quality?
They print about equal so the Ender 3 is better because it’s almost 1/2 the price.
CHEP makes sense
The only reason I want my second printer to be an Ender 5 is because it looks alot more linear rail mod friendly than my Ender 3 was.
Please do not say corexy with this printer. It is a standard fair gantry cartesian with dropping Z-bed. Corexy is entirely about the math in how it places the carriage in space due to a coordinate transform because xy motors are coupled in corexy (similar to how delta is a three tower coordinate transform). People throw around the term corexy. But this is not one. Nice review as usual... But every time you said corexy I had to cringe.
I think I'll stick to my Ender-3 for now. Thanks Chuck! Great Review!
On a side note, I wonder who is going to be the first manufacturer/reseller that is going to take trade-ins? :-) I don't need more than the 2 printers I have right now, but if someone would give me a $100 trade-in value for my Ender-3 I'd upgrade to an Ender-3 Pro, or maybe a CR-10. Or better yet, a Prusa MK3! :-) Just saying....
I'm sure someone on Craigslist would give you $100 for it maybe more?
Thanks, Chuck. I am looking at buying an Ender 5 or and Ender 3x. I like that the 3x comes with the glass bed already. I was leaning towards the Ender 5, but for about $90 less, I may just go with the Ender 3x. Much like you, I don't care for the magnetic sheet. I feel the 3x may be the better choice now that I watched this video.
I like the Ender 3X
Currently trying to decide my next printer, either a Cr10s Pro or a Ender 5 Plus. Either way I will get a Skr Mini E3 and V6 hotend (probably just reuse the V6 and Bondtech BMG from my current printer).
They should made a cheap 32-bit motherboard (real R&D, yes!) with changable drivers and sell the whole thing for 400$... Then it could rip apart the whole 3d printers' market! :) 32-bit MB are very few so they're ridicilously pricey! This has to be changed or we'll not see a new 3d-printing revolution soon. I'm talking about installing numerous sensors on 3d printers so the machines will be "seeing" what they print and correcting parameters on fly.
The injection gasoline engines are pretty old already. The process (in good engines) is controlled via a microcontroller. So how long the consumer 3d printers will be borning without it?
Thank you for review!
Finally decided to take Ender 3 and invest money in new board, rather than buying ender 5. even with it superior frame.
CHEP, great video! Looking at 4:36, not sure if is possible to do another turn, maybe a stronger spring instead. Please let us know either way, if it works, It could help for other printers as well, I adjusted my CR-10 so good that now the gantry is falling, has no play though, so I'm considering that anti-backlash to make it stop falling.
7:26 "and it will drop a little bit"
It's like a brick was placed on the bed.
HA! That really seems like an obvious problem. Bed leveling must drive one crazy with that much bed dropping.
The Ender 3 seems much better, except for it being a Y axis bed slinger for tall bulky fast prints.
Screw the ABS enclosure mod, I think these need modded with an umbrella holder... so you can print in the rain! : /
Thanks CHEP, very clear your comments.
Of course it got the cheaper drivers and power supply. Would've cost quite a bit more if it used the better stuff.
If the 5 don't improve in quality or speed of the print over the earlier iterations, I see no reason to go for it.
The build volume alone is not worth the increase in price.
i have had mine for 1 year now..actually the extra 2 inch plus height allows you to build much larger models...i even made a 12'' long air boat all in one piece from petg...i did up grade tubing and bed... this style printer shows its advantage building taller models...bed does not shake...this type machine is more stable and very easy to keep adjusted... bed stays level much better than with a cr10 or ender 3 type design... i think i will buy another one over an ender 3 if i need another printer... i do have a cr10 clone that has been a real pain..i think its motherboard has to be replaced...
You should do a video testing the magnetic sheet at higher bed Temps. I've seen tons of videos where people say they've printed with the bed well over 90 degrees and it didn't affect the magnet at all.
I’m working on that.
The market is saturated at this price point. I agree, the Ender 5, as is, isnt a good value at $319. If they upgrade the board and sold it for $250, yes. For $30 more ($349 with $50 coupon currently) on AliExpress, you can get the Artillery Sidewinder X1, which is 300x300x400 and has been reviewed very well by others. That's what I'd go for (and did) for at this price point.
Where can I get the sidewinder x1 for 350$ ? Please tell me how to do it. thx
@@24KG24 Well, it was too good to be true. They asked me to cancel my order and pay $399 because the $349 price with coupon was a mistake. I cancelled my order and wont be buying anything from them.
@@timf7354 I bought the Ender 3 Pro for 168€ (with cashback) now, as my 6th printer
Really great review video!
I think the best way to explain the ended 5, pro and plus is as an upgrade platform. You buy the unit and then upgrade parts over time lol
It's so crazy how many subversions of a printer Creality sends out. I'm really itching to get a CR10S Pro but what daily features will it have?
Which printer is the best value for money. was looking at the ender 3 but if there is something better in the same price range please let me know.
I agree with the glass bed.... What a joke with the Mag bed. Mine was tossed immediately
glass is a joke. 1/8"-1/4" aluminum is the way to go
I have a choice of the E3 Pro for $200 or E5 for $250. What would you do? I'm more or less a beginner. I own MP Select Mini v2, and have tried the E3 pro and a few resin printers.
I look forward to a response!
I prefer the E3 Pro.
That's what I ended up going with. Your EXTENSIVE documentation of the E3 is a godsend
...so I should better get the Ender-3 with cheap height mod then?
Do you know maybe if V2 will be modable as V1 is?
Not sure.
I'm thinking Ender 3 v2 will be moddable since Creality tends to allow for that in their printers but we dont know what extra features v2 will have over v1 and as far as I know we dont know when V2 hits the streets. Is it 2020 or 2021? There is still a lot that could happen in 2020. Right now all the talk is about their kickstarter for the Ender 6.
awesome and quick review thanks bro!
Maybe the difference is when you try to print high things , the 5 not need heartquake the object to print it
WHAT WAS PRINT TIME FOR BOTH PRINTS?
Hi Chep, First I want to thank you for the per model setting guide, I now use it all the time. I just brought the cr20-pro and I wondered if you have seen one your self ? I also have 2 x ender 3 and I wanted to get a higher spec printer and this had all the features I wanted without spending prusa money. I am a little sad it still has the plastic extruder stepper mount and it came with the magnetic removable print surface like the ender 5. It took no time to setup and the BLtouch is working very well.
I don’t have access to one. Sorry.
@@FilamentFriday is does not look to be that popular at the moment. Is there anything you would like to see printed on it perhaps a chep cube ? The demo files that came on the SD card are not setup for auto bed level so you just cant print and have to setup cura first with the g92 code.
Advice please, Getting ready to buy my first "real" 3d printer Currently have a Da Vinci Mini.
Creality is running a special on the ender 3 pro for 229, or I can get a CR 10 Mini for either 289 from Banggood or 329 from amazon.
What direction would you suggest? and is Banggood ok to purchase from?
If you are in USA the Banggood USA warehouse ships within 3-5 days so it’s a good savings. Amazon is good if you need an easier return policy. Either is a good printer.
The um gantry like printer must be more quiet with tmc2208 and easier to enclosure but if you say there’s jot much of a difference then it doesn’t make much sense. I’d love a core xy for more print speed but mostly less noise and vibration
Thanks for the video! I just liked and subscribed although I did have a quick question. In your opinion, would you recommend the 5 over the 3 for a beginner? Will I be missing out on a ton of features by going with the 3 ? Thanks again for your time. I just wanted to create my own figurines/toys to sell.
I prefer 3 over 5. Especially for beginners.
I guess I got lucky. My ender 3 printed a samus figure and its very spherical and printed 95% well.
So I’m about to buy an Ender 3, I’m planing on fixing small things like the warped bed and filament extruder. If I were to do some other upgrades, do you think I could get equal, if not better prints then the ender 5 and maybe even a cr-10? I already have a 5, but honestly just don’t have the money to bust out at the moment. Thanks!
Do you find the quality of a 5 Pro to be much better than a V2? I head that you can print at 80mm/s on a 5 Pro without quality loss. Is that true?
Hi. I have the same problem with the bed that goes down alone. if a video of how you solved it would be very good. thanks for your work and videos
For getting in to 3d printing would you choose a 3v2, a 3 pro or a 5. I don‘t get the difference between the 3 and the 3 pro, the pro is even cheaper.
V2
@@FilamentFriday can you tell me, what the difference is?
Depending on what u want business get a ender 5 personal ender 3 also heat gun the items to remove stringing
@@thesusboomerroblox6516 thanks mate
@@yrws6756
The V2 is quieter and has bigger memory. + a couple of upgrades, overall the better choice.
CHEP love the reviews have you seen the new AnyCubic I would love if you could review it.
Which one?
Thanks for your honest advice !!!
I'll take a flexible print bed any day over a hard piece of glass. And why do I need capricorn tubing for ABS, I've been printing with ABS for over a year now using regular PTFE tubing?
PTFE emits "nasty kill you gas" after going above 240 and 235 is pushing it. Capricorn doesn't break down until 360.
@@cakeeee4 I think I understand, you guys are talking about replacing the tubing inside the Hotend? I use an all metal Hotend. I thought CHEP was talking about replacing the PTFE tube that goes into the Hotend from the extruder motor.
Hi, I like what you printed as example to show how bigger we can print on the Ender 5. Could you share the 3D files ? Thank you !
Where is the Thermal runoff protection video at to reflash the firmware that you talked about a few videos ago??
In the works.
@@FilamentFriday Sounds good appreciate the work!!
I bought mine from Amazon for 30 dollars more, but it came with the 1.1.2 board.
Chep, Can you do a Video on upgrading Ender 5 Pro to dual extruder/hotend?
I don’t have and Ender 5 pro.
Ender 3 pro vs ender 5 for my first printer? The price difference doesn't matter
I prefer 3
Just bought this printer. Got the Pro version with the autobed levelling.
How is printing going auto bed must be nice
@@thesusboomerroblox6516 terrible, the printer only lasted a few days before developing a fault and had to be returned. I've now bought a Prusa mk3S instead and it's much better and easier to use 👍
Can you recommend a printer that has outstanding print quality and has all the bells and whistles for 2k or less ?
Just bought an ender 5 plus on the zon. Good enough for the girls i date....
Hi, nice review. Did you share your Cura Profils for Ender 5 ? Thanks a lot.
My Cura profiles are linked in description
Im new to the idea if getting a 3d printer so sorry if I say something that i don't understand. But do you know how well the endo 5r does with flexible feliment?
Semiflex fine but very flexible doesnt work.
@@FilamentFriday ok thank you
Hey Chuck, have loved or Video's since I got my Ender 5 Pro back in Oct 2020. I have been wanting to know and ask you because I see you use a lot of the printer that the print bed move front and back on the on Y axis.
Is that something you find better or potentially a problem when printing to have the bed move back and forth vs be stationary like on the Ender 5 Pro, where it just goes up and down on the Z ?
I don’t see any difference in quality. Most lower cost printers are bed slingers and that’s what I focus on.
Hi Chep, may i ask you what was your impression on the most significant difference innbetween these 2 build. The box-frame vs the H frame. Does'n it suppose to give more stability or accuracy with a non sliding bed?
The idea is the print is stable not moving back and forth. Should be able to print a bit faster.
Hi Chep, what would you pick ender3 v2 or ender 5 pro for the first printer? the price difference doesn't matter.
I prefer V2 between those two.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks :]
@@FilamentFriday Reallyimpressive you're still answering questions on year old videos!
I'm looking for something with wide printing space not so much tall..which will be better the 3 or 5?
They are the same width.
@@FilamentFriday awesome thank you I'm barely looking into a printer so I know little about them..im going to end up with the ender 3 after watching your review
Hi Chuck, I'm looking to buy my first 3D printer. I'm considering the Ender 5 or the CR-20. Either one is within my price goal. Do you think the 'core-xy style' of Ender 5 is preferable to the bed moving in the y-axis like CR-20? Thanks!
It’s a Cartesian not core X-Y. I prefer the I3 style of Ender 3/CR-20.
Chuck, please review the Flying Bear Ghost 4 printer. It costs about the same as the Ender 5 but has far better construction and features
I tried a flying bear a year or so ago. It was junk so I’ve turned down any of their printers since. Maybe they’ve improved.
@@FilamentFriday Tests of the Ghost 4 so far have been rather positive afaik. It has a very sturdy, well constructed frame and superior features to an Ender 5 at similar price.
Also, it seems to be an original construction, not just another clone of a clone. But often, the devil lies in the details.
Other channels have stated that the magnetic bed on the creality pro series works fine up to 100 degrees. Can you please demonstrate the bed problems you are encountering with the magnetic bed?
I corrected myself:
th-cam.com/video/qyG7Gt-Upsg/w-d-xo.html
A GOOD manual by creality???
They have to leave those features out so they can release the pro version in a few months for an extra 50 dollars.
Is there someway I could pay to have a sample made so I can see if printing detail is suitable to me instead of going thru ordering, assembling, printing and not being satisfied and return it to supplier ?
You could try to find people in facebook groups but then you are dependent on their slicing profiles. It’s only 50% the machine.
@@FilamentFriday thanks, I may just buy printer.
Hello, great video! i want to ask since, i am totally new to 3D printing and im looking to buy my first printer, what should i watch out for what is important in buying these printers? im thinking about buying ender 3/pro or 5/pro and i dont know whats best for the buck from these 4. I want to print mainly figures and things like mechanical locks and that stuff. thanks in advance for reply!
Ender 3 is the best bang for the buck.
@@FilamentFriday ender 3 costs 250e in my country and 5 280 and 5pro 320 im thinking about buying the 5pro, what would you choose?
If you want that size the go with 5Pro. I’ve never tested that machine.
@@Warbeaver dont want that mini thingi
Do you say that ender 3's print quality is the same as ender 5's and there is no difference in print speed? So, it will be better to buy ender 3 (pro) and get a glass and some pla/petg?
I don’t see a difference.
@@FilamentFriday what about for circular prints, is it the same as ender 3?
Yes
Chep, I've had a problem recently on my ender 5 plus. During a print it will just stop and retract all the filament then it starts back up and prints in mid air without filament because it retracted it all. Do you know what may be causing this?
If you had to pick ender3v2 or ender5 which one would you pick for first time printer? both are priced the same
V2
Checkout CNc posting on wambam the crealty was used at 100 had release problem but still stuck
Chuck, what the easiest way to tell if you have the newest 1.1.4 board? I just got an Ender3 pro and it has a 1.1.4 board
Creality isn’t shipping the TMC version with printers so you have the 4988 version.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks, I think they should give a discount for those of us that just got new machines
@@dutch1800 They should, but they won't
Hey chep big fan here i had a question should i go for ender 3v2 or ender 5
I believe Ender 5 doesn’t have a silent board so the would be advantage V2
Agreed better drivers would of been nice
So what should i get as my first printer
Ender 3 V2
@@FilamentFriday thank you sir
Thanx For Your Awesome Review I Bought The Ender 5
Do you jave the 3 as well?
Hey Chuck, can we get an ETA on the updated Filament Friday toolkit?
20 days.
so what should i get for my first printer? where i live they are selling the ender 5 pro around 30-40 dollars more than the ender 3 v2 so i am considering getting the ender 5
I prefer the V2 over the 5 Pro but it’s your choice.
hello,thanks for all the videos,I would like to print christmas ornaments with photo in it,what printer would you recommand,I can't find a video,thanks
So basically Ender 3 is better, thx. I'm glad I chose well.