PETG on Creality Ender 3 - Atomic and Prusament
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- Chuck shows you how he 3D Prints PETG on Creality Ender 3. Many have asked for settings and how best to print PETG and Chuck tests some Atomic Carbon Fiber Black PETG Filament and some Prusament Neon Green PETG Filament on this weeks Filament Friday.
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"i have machines that run 24/7 in the back" -> none of them is running =D haha, but very good video, thank you, i will try petg soon
@@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489 okay, english is not my mother language, but good to know, thank you! :)
I think they’re off during bis videos because of the noise
@@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489 Okay but on TH-cam saying "in the back" can mean in the background. It gets more confusing because there are actually printers in the background.
Chuck! Your timing couldn't have been better for this. Thanks so much!
Edit: You've got a subscriber of me now, bell and all.
Thank you for the examples. I'm new to FDM printing and specifically to PTEG. Your tips and materials sources are appreciated.
Great video Chep and your Cura profiles are awesome, thanks a lot!
Thanks chuck for another great video with good solid info that anyone can understand. I've been thinking about printing PETG for a while but as yet haven't. I have used your magic numbers tho in S3D and yes, very impressed.
The neon green vase at the end of the video really shows off the color of that material better than any of the photographs that were taken of it. I think it's the visual context that makes it stand out so well.
Stringing: If you need to print a more complex object with supports and lots of travel in PETG on the Ender 3, change 'Combing Mode' to 'Off' in the 'Travel' section of Cura. This will make most of the stringing disappear because the Combing forces the nozzle to travel within the object (which is good) but it disables retraction when doing so. I initially had lots of issues for printing a Petsfang cooling duct while all my previous tests were fine. The geometry of that object created complex travel patterns which in turn created lots of stringing inside the object. That matter was often dragged to the outside of the object giving the illusion it was a retraction issue.
Oh my GOSH you have no idea how much stress you saved me. I would have never found that setting on my own, I am trying to print an iron man helmet but I can't even get a 3dbenchy boat to not have much stringing, not only did this eliminate the stringing it also made my print quality much better. I have been trying to fiqure out why my prints where still stringing and poor quality for so long. Thank you!!!
Thanks for this Video Chuck! I was able to do the hotend mod and use your advise on the settings to print nice clean prints using PETG which I have been struggling for ages with on my Duplicator i3. The Ender 3 is an awesome value, I am glad I purchased it, and with your expertise I can now print PETG with great quality. God Bless!
Wanted to thank you for this video. I received an Ender 3 for Christmas and had a lot of luck with PLA, but trying PETG I had problems. Seen other videos for printing PETG but they were kind of vague. After watching your video I have had nothing but success so far. THANKS again.
Also, I print with Inland filament and you mentioned that you had to go as high as 260 degrees. I have been lucky and printing it at 240 degrees.
I love your videos. Thanks for sharing the info!
You've helped me a lot with my new Ender 3!
Thanks for the outstanding video! Just ordered Capricorn Tubing for all three of our printers. I also feel better about my terrible experience printing Inland PETG after watching this haha. I have had very positive experiences with multiple spools of Inland PLA, but their PETG kept surrounding the nozzles on our Ender 3 and CR10 (or something that resulted in a molten glob of PETG forming on the tip). I even installed MicroSwiss All Metal Hot Ends out of desperation, but that didn't work either, possibly because I'm hesitant to go above 235-40C with the stock tubing (Inlands PETG Print Temp Guidelines on the spool are 225C-240C for anyone who might be wondering).
The Prusa PETG filament is currently out of stock on Amazon so I'm going to order the Atomic directly from them today. I'm not sure if they have an affiliate program so I'll let them know that I'm trying their product because of this video :-). Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community, your videos are extremely helpful!
the Inland PLA is really good. I use your PLA settings and after tweaking in the extruder steps, It flows well and looks good.
I look forward to your videos every week!
Great presentation style. Very warm and welcoming. Subbed.
Honestly the best 3D Print Chanel on TH-cam. Thanks a lot. Greets from Germany.
He's just a spoke in the wheel of great information.
4:21 (the text) 😆
Love the videos Chep! I JUST started trying PETG and low and behold, you pump out another informative video. 👍
Great tips as always Chuck. I have a Micro Swiss hot en on the Borg so don't get the PTFE breakdown. Stil haven't got round to testing it with PETG though, will try to do it this week. Thanks for the nudge.
Using PETG is on my To Do list, so thx for this video & sharing comments.
Prusament is honestly brilliant! Love the stuff and couldn't recommend it more to anyone
Sir you're doing a great job and sharing those profiles you're a hero.
Hero, yes. Agreed
I totally agree about the Capricorn. I bought a meter for my Anycubic Linear Delta printer to help with accuracy and retraction (which I totally recommend) and I had a bit left over that just happen to be the exact length for the E3. I now feel confident in taking the Hotend up to 250 without a problem. Capricorn is a cheap but worthwhile upgrade. PETG is great for load bearing applications but I find it's not as detailed as PLA. My current project is mounting my CH Fighterstick and throttle to my chair for playing Elite Dangerous. PETG is perfect for an application like this.
BTW thanks for the profiles Chuck, I'm looking forward to trying them out.
Cheap,
Thank you. I learned a lot about PETG from this video.
Maybe, just maybe it's not the evil filament that I thought it was. Now, I'm going to give it a second chance.
Thank you for ALL the info.
cheap
Since I loaded your PETG profiles, I could finally print decent parts. You spared me a lot of cursing. Many thanks. Works great on CURA 5.1
I just got my 1st roll of PETG. Will try your settings.
Another informative video. Following on to this I was able to do a good PETG print on my stock CE Pro3. Thank you :) I ran the Magic 0.2 profile with 240 at nozzle and 65 on bed.
Exactly the same numbers, using Creality PETG (first PETG print ever!) and directly onto an Ikea mirror (cleaned with IPA) - printing great, but there is some stringing
That was great! I had no idea i could do this. Thank you.
Hi Chuck, after many complicated explanatios and procedures of how to print PETG came to look at your video and just as you used your magic 2.0 and set the temp to 240° and printed my first test pieces and they are perfect! used Overture PETG (formelly amazon basics) without any problems.
Great feedback.
Thanks - didn't realise the issue with temperature and the PTFE tube; had assumed it'd be fine! Well, at least I now know why the end of the PTFE tube went black on one of my printers...
Thank you for your videos!
I've been printing Zyltech PETG @ 230 C and I get really good prints.
great job like always lots of info
thanks for the profiles
I been using your profile on PETG been working better than others I have and tweaked
Very helpful content!
4:21 "Title Text Here" ;-)
I print well with generic PETG at 230 C on the hotend and 80 C on the bed on my Ender 3. Retraction is 6 mm and moderate speed.
Printing slowly without z hot makes a big difference in quality. Make sure your bed is very level for the first layer to ensure you dont have anything stick to your nozzel.
Nice video! I will have to buy that capricorn tubing. Thanks!
Chuck bringing the 🔥 with another great video!
Thanks man!
Another very useful video. Thanks.
Thanks for share your knowledge. I have a PETG with a 200-220 Temperature, I'm going to try with the factory tubing, meanwhile i buy the carpricorn, thanks again.
Yessss!!!!! Thanks again!, it works with your profile and the factory tubing, the PETg is Solutech.
Great info as usual 👍👍
With the hotend fix video you posted a few months back, you would only need enough Capricorn tubing really for the piece inside the hotend, so would be able to do multiple printers and just leave the standard ptfe tube running from the extruder to the top of the hot end. That's my plan anyways as Capricorn tubing isn't super cheap ordering in Canada.
Just about to try PETG on my Ender 3.
Good stuff. I'm using prusament Galaxy black I actually just tried some inland petg in transparent green think I printed at 240/245 and I had pretty good results I just sent it threw the filament dryer first.
However the inland pla was very inconsistent 😑 didn't string and colors nice but its hard to nail a temp were it extruder perfectly clean and isn't to hot
I bought some Amazon PETG and Im quite happy with it after dialing in the settings for my printer. PETG will probably be my go to filament from now on. Especially since my local government mandated recycling company acknowledges it as PET for now. They wont take PLA or bags even if they are made from hdpe.
Hi CHEP,
nice video sharing your experience.
have you done 3d printed with ABS on Ender 3?
Kindly share your experience related to that.
Thanking you.
Inland is one of my favorites, I run all metal hotends, and it prints like a dream -- 245-265 depending on the machine. I just got a totalpack PETg in and have had a few good prints off it -- it has a recommended ranges of 180-210, that's a bit weird, I had issues with flowing it at that low end, but 230-235, runs fine. FYI -- not sure what your fan settings are, but PETg is best to turn the fan down.
Figgers. My hotend refuses to go over 235, though I had it higher when I first unboxed it (Only had the thing running and printing PLA for a week or so now). Got new heater cartridges and capricorn tubing on the way.
I am amazed by your channel, I used the extreme fast and good 2.0 profiles for my PLA prints (started over Christmas) and is incredible! Thank you so much, you have for sure a follower and hopefully an active supporter soon. Do you think I could use PLA good 2.0 setting also for PETG but with a boost on temperature on both bed and hot end? I have a stock ender 3 neo, and I love it! Thank you!
Nice Chuck! Thanks.
Thanks for showing
Thanks for sharing :-)
PETG is imho the best material for doing engineering prototypes, prints relatively easy and has good mechanical properties. Thanks for confirming that the Ender is up for the task.
Love this just got my first roll today. It was almost like you read my mind. Lol
I was just reading about petg on reddit.... And you post this. Lol thanks!
Thanks for all the great videos and files. My ender 3 v2 is doing as good or better than my 1000 dollar printer, just a little bit slower. The only PETG I have used so far is Amolen Translucent PETG and it's recommended temperature is 210-240. It prints pretty nicely, just stringy. I'm going to try it on my ender with your profiles for the first time and return to update......if I don't forget.
Have you done anything to the surface? I've heard that PETG is quite destructive on glass when removing it so I'm a bit scared of destroying my ender 3 v2s glass bed, but maybe its ok because of the coating idk
Very good job 👍
thanks for all the great videos, I just got my ender 3 pro last week, and they were super useful, went also to buy your kit from amazon, but to get it in italy it cost me double becouse of the import fees, so i'll just copy what's inside and buy via the affiliate ;)
Thanks. We’re getting real close to offering the Tool Kit in UK.
@@FilamentFriday that'll be great :)
On the machine did you use Preheat PLA or Preheat ABS, im using ender 3 v2.
If you take a blowtorch and quickly sweep across your print with it like you're painting it, after a few swipes with cool downs in between, you can give it a nice shiny reflection and the print lines dissappear if you are patient and do it right.
i found this out with PLA, when your print off of the ender 3 bed, it's a little white on the bottom, blast it with a "jet" lighter, and you have no more white marks
The higher breakdown Capricorn tubing works great for PETG. Concerns about dangerous outgassing are valid but consider that the amount of the Capricorn tube that actually gets exposed to that higher temp. is a very small. I've been using Capricorn for quite sometime and have yet to see any breakdown with the part of the tubing in contact with the nozzle on multiple printers. My favorite PETG filaments are eSUN and COEX. Never tried any Prusament yet. Not a fan of Inland PETG.
The settings i use for PETG is hotend set at 215c and bed at 70c and speed at 25mm/s and it seems to all work ok.
Thanks good information
My first trial with petg was sunlu clear, at 240c turned out white, but was a nice print on my ender 3 pro
I've had good luck on the Ender 3 on PETG, the only thing that's really an issue for me is getting a clean first layer because the nozzle keeps peeling up bits of it, but once that layer's down smooth it's well and truly *stuck* there until I release it.
I'm having trouble with PETG on my Ender 5 when I print parts with bridges, like the Hero Me Fan Duct (haven't installed it yet, atm I am printing completly stock, 240C 50mm/s, 98% outer wall flow). What I've also found was that fan speed on the E5 doesn't really do anything at all when printing this type of filament, bridging did not improve when bumping the fan from 50 to 100 percent. Maybe it's just the quality of my filament, who knows.
i learned something to day about cura im new to 3d printing hey quick question how that makerpoint i3pro holding up i picked one up from facebookmarker place for 80 seems great for the price
I would definitely change the fan control and flow settings for petg if one is interested in the strength capabilities of petg. Using the fan setting for pla makes most petg brittle. And it would be wise to tune the Retraction for petg too. It looks OK but could definitely look better with not using generic settings
Chuck...This is great information and I've learned a lot from all of the videos I've watched. Thanks a lot. I notice in some of your videos you refer to the Magic profiles. I've downloaded your latest for Cura 4.5 and have had good luck with them. Do the Magic profiles still exist or have you just brought them forward to the newer profiles for the new releases of Cura? Thanks...Irv in Florida
My profiles contain the magic numbers.
I print PETG with a standard temp of 230C
I dont know if i have great PETG but it works great for me
The PETG I am using states 220-250. And the low end definitely works.
Has the filament composition changed? Is it the same hardness still? I feel the PETG is pretty flexible. Or perhaps it has to do with the rcommendation to leave the fan off?
Ran PETg out of the box pretty well. The PTFE needs to be real tight to prevent blockage and burn in the hotend. Have moved to the Capricorn PTFE with the washer fix from CHEP and it's significantly improved. 240-255 degC hotend, 8.0mm retraction and 69degC bed. Biggest issue has been bed adhesion, gluestick has been the best result. Print speed no higher than 60mm/s. Results have been consistently comparable to PLA. Stringing happens when too hot and you don't want to add additional stress by printing too cold. So test your filament, start hot and drop the temp until you find the sweet spot. With Marvle3D filament standard setup 255degC with mods and tuning in running at 240 degC. So good tuning makes a significant difference.
69, nice
Hey CHEP love your videos. If I have any questions you are my first go to. I have mentioned in the past that I have the upgraded NEO you recommended in a previous vid. Thank you, I still love it.
Now I am wondering since I have upgraded the to the all metal heat break will this also help with printing higher temp like for PETG to take the heat away from the PTFE tube? Do to not finding a certain color I need in PLA I may have to use PETG. (darker green possibly to match, for example only John Deere green)
Yes
Thanks for the video, I've got an interesting issue with PETG, I print a Christmas tree in vase mode PLA it looks beautiful, however it's quite fragile, I tried with PETG and certain parts that would bridge fine with PLA (tops of the branches) don't they cave in. Any suggestions?
man i love ur vids
Im using Prima Select PETG, which has a much lower print temperature. Box says 195-235 deg c. Im using 220 and it turns out perfect. In fact I can use my standard PLA settings with this stuff and the print would turn out ok. Dont know why this PETG is so special, but its the only one ive found with such low temperatures.
I don't know how to tell you how thankful i am lol. I couldn't make PETG work for me until i learned to not be afraid to bring the temp up to 240. I used to attempt it in 220
Update. I was doing larger prints and for some reason it began to warp. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to do to prevent this?
petg likes to warp on glass beds. I always use a brim to print petg, and try reducing the fan speed. Hope that helps
@@giulianopaletta5072 yea man thanks for the info. I'm not using a glass bed im just using the mat in the ender 3 pro. What helped me was setting the bed temp to 75 degrees and I printed stuff with no problems. Ill try keeping the fan speed low for next time. Thanks again.
Awesome video Chep, I have been trying Vases thanks to your help. If i wanted to make the vase thicker and use a .8 nozzle would this work? I currently use your magic 2.0 for printing most things and it works flawlessly. What kind of adjustments would I have to make to print with a .8 nozzle?
You first have to change machine settings for different size nozzle.
Then in profile adjust temperature up for extra plastic and possibly a few others so probably a modified profile to really get good prints.
I have about a meter of sunlu pla. But I just went through cura setting to see what branded filament is on the and available in Australia so I went with the esun I already have the grey petg because I accidentally orderd petg not pla guess I'll have to use it. Well it's one way to learn
now running petg at 100 mm/s with extruder at 240 and bed 75. layers 0.2 and a beast like the ender 3 pro is like awesome. ender 3 pro is still stock, brand new! thanks chep for the little tweakings i was still missing ;-)
Watch for bowden tube tube melting around 240, don't go over that. I will try PETG but at 235 C on standard tube, after I switch I can go higher. Btw the fumes from the molten tube are not good for you, take care.
@@mmdirtyworkz 240° is the maximum i need ;-) the PETG flows very nice and don't need to go higer. next upgrade i'll buy will be the capricorn tubing. but i have an ender 3 pro for PETG and an geeetech A10 for PLA and another ANET A8 for PLA. don't like to switch filament types on my printers and i don't have to worry about levelling al the time alsow. thanks for the concern, don't need to have more toxic fumes then we already have al day ;-). stay save!
What fan settings do you use?
first layer off. for the rest it depends wich slicer i use, if i print on glass or another surface. my ender 3 pro is modded with duckts so have to find it out a little bit yourself. i've quit cura and use now for the most stuff i print prusa slicer or ideamaker. find them better working with my ender and geeetech A10.
Hi chuck thanks for this video I would be extremely happy if you would do a review of the atomic CF filament I been wanting to buy it but it's a little expensive and I can't find any reviews on TH-cam for this filament would be awesome if you would do a review for atomic CF filament thanks.
I'm having issues with filatech orange regarding layer seperation when filatech transparent prints as perfect as FDM can achieve. they recommend 240c which is bullshit because you really do want to go higher.
also sticks wonderfully to PEI sheet coated with dilute PVA solution (school glue) sprayed from a mister. bed adhesion is better with it than anything I've ever printed with.
If you are concerned about the extruder temperature, I have had great success printing Hatchbox PETG at 225C on my CR-10S4.
Awesome information. I just got my first printer (Ender 5 plus). Quick question, how do I import your Cura settings into my system? Thanks again.
th-cam.com/video/2Ejo6EVQ5Gc/w-d-xo.html
Surprised at the speed of 50, as I am using Amazon PETG I need to back it down to 40 or I tend to get sporadic under extrusions. However that atomic filament looks nice might need to give it a try...
Creality has 280 degree tubing for 7 bucks a meter. I use it to 255 on my ender 3 pro to print petg! All stock except the tubing and extruder.
Love your videos Chuck! I am trying to print with carbon fiber PETG and I am having issues with massive under extrusion. I can see that the extruder gear is slipping a lot. The extruder has no problem with PLA. The PETG is so much stiffer it doesn't surprise me that the gear can't bite into it as much. I was wondering if you used your dual gear extruder when you did these two prints. I am tying to decide if I should shim the spring or just buy the dual gear extruder. What do you think?
Make sure the arm isn’t cracked.
Go the all metal duel wheel extruder (about $10) and have a look for Chep's video on setting it up, I changed my extruder and set it up as directed in the video (seems the gearing is much lower than the stock one) and it works a treat.
Capricorn’s safety page cautions that their additives inhibit deformation, *not* PTFE offgassing. They strongly recommend printing “in a well ventilated area, away from children and pets.” Some pets are indeed more susceptible to PTFE fumes, but as a medical doctor who has studied this topic, I know that no human of any age is immune to the myriad health risks triggered by Teflon pyrolysis. The best level of it is ZERO, not just a low, seemingly acceptable level - for such chemicals, there is none.
Unfortunately, Teflon pyrolysis rarely produces immediate noticeable effects, but exposure can and often does trigger serious and even deadly consequences. Because users commonly print frequently if not 24/7, that chronic exposure will very likely result in health problems.
Crucially, no fused-filament fabrication (FFF) printer is safe. Some are designed so they are not susceptible to Teflon pyrolysis, but heating all filaments - even PLA - produces particulate emissions. Many users mistakenly assume that little or no smell translates into no risk. Wrong. Bottom line: no printing should be done in occupied buildings unless the printers are encased in airtight chambers with active ventilation ported outside.
In vase mode in cura (running version 4.3) it makes no bottom layers for me, any ideas on what settings to change to make it print it right?
I'm printing prusament Galaxy black now with an ender3v2 with all metal hot end i set the temp at 250c should that be good
Started at 240 and I thing the layer lines looked a touch colder than I'd like so I went for 250
For wider/larger prints I had to increase bed temp to 75°C
To fix layer separation I increased hotend temp from 240°C to 260°C and reduced fan speed to 25%
After these changes I'm able to print with PETG quite well on my Ender 3.
Are you using the same 50mm/s speed? I'm getting a ton of stringing on my prints and tried several ranges of speed and temp.
Thoughts?
@@nicholaswillcox Stringing often indicates insufficient retracting.
Could also be a sign that you're having a cavity between the nozzle and the tube.
...and yes. It's at 50mm/sec I'm using. Sometimes I increase the speed to 60mm/sec with acceptable results.
@@sysghost Interesting. So I will say this, maybe it'll help troubleshoot my failures.
Retraction at 6mm and can't remember the speed, but set it pretty high.
and the stringing typically only happens after the first 3 or so layers.
The first layers go down and it looks beautiful. Then...literal plastic poop. LOL
(Cura slicer, BTW)
@@nicholaswillcox First few layers are printed at a lower speed iirc. (I might be wrong here). That could be a clue.
But stringing is related to the material being left inside the nozzle. How this might be happening :
* Too short or too slow retraction. (Sometimes movement in the bowden tube itself cancel out some of the retraction distance)
* Too high temperature resulting in too low viscosity.
* Too much molten material in or around the nozzle. (molten material just above the nozzle inside the heatbreak. There might be a cavity just above the nozzle as the bowden tube isn't seated properly aganist the nozzle)
@@sysghost Really good info. Whenever it's not ice-pocalypse down here in Texas in the next few weeks I'll give that information some space in my troubleshooting and see if I can't sort it out. Thank you for sharing the knowledge!
Really clear and informative! :) sub’d
I used 3d solutech natural clear PETG. It prints great and only requires 220C.
Been considering investing in a Filistruder and recycling PET coke bottles and water bottles into filament, and wondered how that rPET would compare to PETG. I know that the G is for glycol, which should make the filament a tad softer. Just want a unique alternative to putting plastic in a landfill, or having to lug them to a recycling center. Just don't want to destroy my Ender 3 Pro.
Great information, although with petg there can be layer adhesion problems and i for i had to print slightly higher at 250 for strenght
I didn’t mention that I put actual Buildtak on my bed and that solved and PETG adhesion issues.
do you have an updated PETG profile for Cura 5.0?
What is your rekommendation for retraction speed and retraction distance when using direct drive(semi-direkt)with BMG, short Capricorn tube(2cm)between and MicroSwiss All metal hotend?
Thanks for all the effort, great videos and channel. Keep up with the good work!
No idea. I’ve not used that setup. But probably a lower number than Bowden settings.
Beautiful job, man! Thanks for the tips! 😃
Question: did you ever printed with nylon and TPU using the Ender 3? How did it went?
Did TPU: th-cam.com/video/1GNDxvxpWr8/w-d-xo.html
Nylon requires even higher temp than PETG or ABS so I say Ender 3 can’t handle it.
Hey Chuck, this looks very amazing. Unfortunately my Kossel wont print like this. I have troubles with printing small loops. BTW your Cura preview feedrate shows various speeds. Where is this function hidden? My Cura only is able to show speedcolours for each function (bottom/top layer; walls; infill). Or do you have an addon or plugin for this?
You might have to enable it thru settings. Click on the gear to see options
How hot can you safely print on an Ender 3 if you have the Capricorn tubing?