Creality Ender 3 Pro - 3D Printer - Upgrades & Prints
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2019
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Buy it here: geni.us/xUMach
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
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Upgrades:
Capricorn tubing:geni.us/nOtX
Stepper Dampers: geni.us/pXvmFBR
Silicone Sock: geni.us/rArnrL
Metal Extruder: geni.us/SqP89R
TL Smoothers: geni.us/eBM2vv
Gear Puller: geni.us/Edm856p
Timing belt pulley: geni.us/BAvciy8
Printable Upgrades:
Fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:336...
Filament Guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:277...
Ribbon Clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:288...
E-Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:311...
Tool Tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:316...
Side Spool Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:296...
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:320...
PCB Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:298...
Pressure fitting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:299...
Z-axis Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
The Ender 3 is one of the most popular printers of 2018 with a very large user base available online at websites like Reddit, Facebook, and TH-cam, all filled with resources which help to improve the experience for a new user or an experienced hobbyist.
New design features improve upon the wildly successful Ender 3 model 3D printer. Improvements to the Y axis improve stability, and the alteration of the control box unit move the fan to the bottom of the unit, no longer under the print bed.
Our all new magnetic bed surface for easy model removal is included stock on the Ender 3 Pro. Easily remove the magnetic print surface from the hotbed and remove models with no spatula or razor necessary.
The brand name Meanwell power supply delivers more power with a stable output ensuring the temperature fluctuations are minimized, especially during long and intensive prints. Heat the hotbed faster and to higher temperatures before making the Ender 3 Pro a much better option for printing ABS and other high temperature high strength filaments.
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New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Ender3 Pro: geni.us/xUMach
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
Upgrades:
Capricorn tubing:geni.us/nOtX
Stepper Dampers: geni.us/pXvmFBR
Silicone Sock: geni.us/rArnrL
Metal Extruder: geni.us/SqP89R
TL Smoothers: geni.us/eBM2vv
Gear Puller: geni.us/Edm856p
Timing belt pulley: geni.us/BAvciy8
Printable Upgrades:
Fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3365114
Filament Guide: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2770487
Ribbon Clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880021
E-Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115901
Tool Tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162464
Side Spool Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967567
Spool Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211
PCB Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100
Pressure fitting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683
Z-axis Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080
great video. could you add the links to the video description?
Share your profile please
drive.google.com/open?id=1digP83egREvNaL4j0I5hFBmr6xGVgdk8
Just Vlad thank you so much.!
@17:07 I believe every 3D printer has a human sensor, to detect when you have left the vicinity so that it knows it's time to knock your print free from the print bed. My sensor seems to be 100% functional, as no print has EVER failed in my presence and yet EVERY print has failed when I've left my printer unattended.
I 100% agree. I used to be gone all the time and I would come home to failed prints. But with quarantine I have just stayed in my room all day and it has printed perfectly.
@@pineapplevity that sucks cause some prints can take hours
Caleb Smith oof
thats why mine is where i can see it XD if i could have it by my bed i would
Any idea how to give prints as best a possible chance of remaining on the print bed as opposed to breaking away part through prints please? Am a newbie and am really struggling with this. Thought bed levelling was enough of a nightmare never mind prints breaking away from the print bed. Tried different print beds and glue sticks without avail. Understand that there's adhesive sprays that are available but they are quite expensive from what's understood however I'd make the investment should these be highly recommend. Also believe hair spray can help with adhesion. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hey Vlad, because of your videos, I got and set my Ender 3 Pro with ease! I also ordered the upgraded Bowden tube, couplers, and aluminum extruded assembly at the same time and assembled my printer with the upgraded parts. Can’t tell you how much I really enjoy this machine and the quality prints it puts out. Very pleased with the Ender 3 Pro as my first 3D printer!
I literally just ordered it, also directly got myself some of the suggested upgrades. Helpful vid man! Thanks a lot!
I thought the trash can warping was the real design, it honestly still looks good
Same!
agree
Seems you have the same odd horizontal banding on each benchy....but dang they look good
like Bob Ross said. its a happy accident
@@bisonsgames Was going to reply the same thing and you beat me to it! But yea, the trashcan looks ultra-modern with the wavy edge.
I just wanted to say thank you as you have made up my mind for my first 3D printer. All the upgrades are all stuff I can do plus seem to fix issues that would give me hell. Keep it up.
FYI:
I just purchased an Ender 3 Pro from Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D via Amazon 4 days ago. The Silicone Sock had already been included as were (2) PTFE Tube clips. Maybe they watched your videos. LOL
Is it working fine for u? I wanna get one too need a bit of feed back, tnx?
@@lukasstahl5979 Got mine within the last week. Very, very happy with my purchase. The last 3D printer I owned had nothing but problems and would barely work. I have not had a failed print yet with my Ender 3 pro! I also got the same things he mentioned and had the same idea that they were listening to customer feedback. A good sign in any company.
My tube clamp was pretty solid too lmao
MIne should be here later today, exact same one, Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro. Can't wait lol. Will be adding the extruder upgrade and the Capricorn tubing too
Just purchased mine yesterday, came today and found it too had some improvements on it, out-of-the-box. as seen in this video, and other videos.
Wow, these jump cuts are incredible
Man this is an absolute great video! Super clean and well lit. I'm about to order the Ender 3 Pro and look forward to the upgrades you have done here. Added to Favorites.
Great video! Thank you! I had my Ender 3 (non-Pro) 2 months ago and have been liking it a lot! Fantastic machine!
How's it holding up rn bc i have a mk3s and am looking to get a second printer and am deciding between a prusa mini and a ender 3 pro
Just bought one today! Counting down on when I get it! thanks for all of your tips!
Oh yeah! Huge difference! Things like this don’t usually come out on camera but ya can def tell an improvement
you can buy the PSU just search amazon or whatever for MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 that is the PSU you want.
you can also replace the fan in that PSU 60x60x10mm fan get a quiet one to make it less noisey (its a 12v fan!! not 24v the PSU down converts to 12v for its own fan)
for the feeder that bolt is exactly the problem. too tight too much friction. loosen it a smidge and it will be fine. and yes the aluminum one is so much nicer.
also your over extruding a tiny bit lower your flow rate or extrusion multiplier 2 points. (95%-96% or .95-.96 usually works well)
I also think you have some binding (that is the bulging you see in the middle all of your benchy's have it)
make sure the right hand vertical gantry is not too tight (loosen till it wobbles then retighten only enough to stop it from wobbling) also loosen the screws holding the brass pushing around the lead screw in place in the left vertical gantry. raise it to the top then retighten it "just a little" to snug it not really tight. that should take care of any lead screw offset.
that last benchy is pretty darned nice.
while this is not guarenteed to work you can try this to improve the giant trash bin print. run multi process print the bottom 3 or 4 layers normally then when it gets to the spiral increase the flow rate on the printer to 150% it will make .6mm walls and they will resist warping a little more.
BTW those first layers NOT BAD for a full platen build !!!
and you just made a lot of people giddy with their peeling fetishes with that peel off their :-)
English please?
@@masonmcgregor7997 Going to need to be more specific than that. :-)
Vlad and Nerys... Thanks for all this information! Mine just arrived last night! Told the wife to read a book and I slapped it together in no time :P ... All the info you guys have provided is really helpful to a first timer like me. The first upgrade will be the Aluminum feeder assembly. Appreciate it and I'll be watching more! Nerys if you have any other suggestions I'd be happy to hear them! ... man cant sleep, just wanna PLAY!
That print is awesome. Idk why it's so fascinating
I found the 3D ender Pro on Sale and ordered it. In the mean time I am also getting the upgrades from amazon and that way will apply some from the get go and print the rest. I am new to 3D printing completely so I thought a good way to start learning about all this would be to practice on the printable upgrades. Received 4 kg of PLA today too. Thanks for these videos!
Great video!! As others have stated - you really need to replace the coupling for the extruder with a very solid one.
Just ordered my ender 3 pro today. Should be here in a couple days I cant wait to set it up and start some printing.....that warped trash can looks nice!!!! reminded me of silk sheets
Thanks for your videos, sitting here designing upgrades and watching you ;)
This video is actually very useful cause I was having a hard time finding upgrades setting them up so thank you😁👍🏽
I added the Capricorn tubing and fittings it works very well and in Cura settings I went to expert settings and reset 1st layer print at 70 degrees then it goes to 60 automatically for rest of print I get better bed adhesion that way good video I always like your tips!
I think that one of the reasons for the warping on the cube, is the print cooling fan. Because the walls are so thin, when the fan blows air on the print, it slightly moves the wall and creates the waving/ warping effect.
I really love your video because you always find the not so good on a 3d printer and your make your own fix for it. good job always :)
LOL that bin. I didnt really pay attention for a moment and wondered what the heck you were doing filling the whole bed with a sheet. Then the whole bin popped into existance and daaaamn. I mean it's just a bin but that was quite crazy. The warping gave it a nice touch actually. I ordered this same printer an hour ago and looking for upgrades. Damn fine video!
I am waiting for mine ender 3 pro, definitely going to do at least some of your upgrades
Your ascent is gold
Love the extruder knob. Thanks for sharing the stl!
I bought the metal filament feeder on a whim for a future upgrade then I noticed my prints were gradually becoming less and less "accurate". After 3 failed prints I finally noticed the large flat piece of the feeder was cracked under the arm. Luckily I had replacement parts ready, that metal filament feeder is a MUST!
I have installed 2 set of smoother on Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro and fairly happy the way they prints
What's a smoother/which ones did you install?
X & Y dampeners are a very good upgrade. They make the Ender 3 practically silent too. All you hear are the fans
The full metal extruder assembly (dual gear or the single) is really nice I like it very much. I have a full metal dual gear version on my Ender3, but I really recommend everyone who upgrade from the factory one, to recalibrate the e-steps and the flow rate properly.
If you upgrade to the 1.1.5 "Silent Board" you don't have to use the smoothers & it's makes the stepper motors silent while printing so you don't have to worry about the noise at night, especially if the printer is relatively close to the place where you sleep or rest.
I haven’t even bought this printer yet, and here I have a list of upgrades a mile long! Thanks for all the vids, very informative!!
The newer ender 3 pros come with the 1.1.4 board that does not require tl-smoothers. There, i saved you some money.
@@bbb10101 howd you know? I'm planning on buying it too
Radu Breahna how wild you know this?
@@buddybonbutt7510 i got the ender 3 pro with 1.1.4. Prints come out smooth, no salmon skin
@@bbb10101 oh sweet. Saved me some money then. Thank you.
Keep an eye on your coupling that will fix the problem temporarily. The couplings are not designed for this use with the retraction where's them out quite quickly. There are a couple of different styles that we have found some better than others. The better ones are Chrome weather black where the Bowden tube goes in they are the better wants to use we have found.
These upgrades are just things witch Creality could have put on but they didn't do it
I really love these upgrades
All these little 5-10$ upgrades add up. It would bump the cost up from $200 to like 250-300.
But i do thing some things (like a metal extruder assembly) should be stock. As the stock version is basically single use.
19:29 my printer made a lot of those when my hotend was leaking plastic & falling onto my print. it was plastic that came in contact directly with the heating element, got burnt & dripped down, from the nozzle not pushing hard enough against the threaded tubing connected to the hotend heatsink.
I'm not a huge fan of lots of jump cuts, but I appreciate your videos.
I bought mine directly from the official creality website around December and it comes with ptfe locking pins, and the silicone hot end cover comes pre-installed.
The aluminium extruder has a special way to build it. You have to put a hex bolt into the spring and you use the bolt to push on it and spring to give more tension. It allows adjustment, where as the way you did it gives no adjustment and the spring is loose.
And there's a nifty Schematic Diagram that show all the hardware and it's placement of the new Extruder. It was very helpful.
I'm impressed with the box. I think the extruder upgrade had more to do with any improvement than the diodes or nozzle guard.
Fantastic review and very informative. You eliminate the fear of purchasing a 3D printer with this instructional video. Definitely buying this.
Have you looked into that bed lift-off problem or do you think bed calibration was the issue?..That trash can makes a cool Lamp shade if done in translucent filament.
hey bud on your ender 3 y-axis; to stop the artifacts all you have to do is tap your v-slots wheels closer to the v-slot rails. i noticed this when i was able to shake my bed to the left and right. now i have pristine prints no uneven layer lines. i promise you this you will love that printer ten times more. Cheers!
Fun fact: The amount of yellow filament means that your bowden tube is not all the way in on the hot end. That creates additional stress on the feeder and the heating element and causes additional extrusion issues as you technically end up with a small compression chamber of hot filament that ends up acting like a damper. You need to open it up, heat it to 200c and push the bowden tube in to line up with the edge of the nozzle socket, maybe a bit more through even and when you tighten the nozzle down it will push the bowden tube back a bit. That will eliminate the chamber!
I knew nothing about this - I bought a E3 and had it built in a hour (that was FUN) first prints look good - some sticking problems at first. (I have the stock not the pro) I'm impressed with it and pretty easy to learn. Just takes time. NOW I need to model - as I want to make telescope adapters and they are simple cylinders but have fine threads. = (
Thanks for making a video that is so easy to understand.
3:43 you're pointing at the heat sink; the heat break is directly below it.
The PSU is a mean well power supply. It the same make as what is used in my direct drive OSW (sim racing)
so it is easy to get one for the none Pro ender 3
I also replaced my extruder mechanism with the red aluminum one you used, and ended up having problems where that threaded hole for a coupler was chewing on all the incoming filament and leaving tiny dust particles of old filament in my new filament. There wasn't enough room to screw in a coupler so I fixed it by superglueing a very small length of ptfe tube in the hole to cover the threads.
My ender 3 came with such a silicone heat shield preinstalled, and the tube clip, and a tiny filament guide
I was thinking that too? And it was advertised as an ender3
Got a pro for $100 . Bought the silent board and the boden tube with metal feeder. New bed springs and cr touch.
You should check the temperature of the smothers. The ones I use reach 60°C with heatsink.
Got one coming tomorrow. Great video
hey Just Vlad in my experience if you upgrade the motherboard to 1.1.5 you dont need the tl smoothers. i noticed it makes prints worse in some cases and "auto home" seems to slam against the switches. hope this helps anyone
Nice video dude. Tks for making it!
love the upgrades, i would add a glass bed
Hell yeah thanks for sharing man. Will definitely add smoothers to mine lol
big difference with the smoothers. Nice video Vlad.
You should use your third TL Smoother on the extruder stepper.
The lines seems consistent which would indicate z axis lead screw issues. Maybe the brass holder is too tight...not sure.
Prints will hold well to magnetic surface as long as first layer has a little (not too much) squish.
You could print a spacer to go between the screw and the spring to keep it steady. :)
great videos you make. keep up the great work
Vlad, have some mercy on us. You introduce you videos, And your voice is kinda low in volume, and then you say lets go, and my speakers start to vibrate off the desk. Lower the bass a little maybe. You might save an old mans life... Scares the crap out of me every time...
How come i didn't buy a 3D printer years before.. i do so much DIY projects or even just to have fun i'd use it a lot.
With a 6 months credit it's like 40 bucks per months, can't wait to get it !
You should print a camera bracket to fix the camera to the printer for when you are filming upgrades, I like the look of that extruder upgrade but will soldier on with the existing part until it causes me some problem
I think the new parts are a new board with better drivers will be even better
You need to replace the stock extruder gear assembly immediately. The stock assembly is just barely good enough to get off a couple of prints.
Within a week, mine cracked at the pivot screw. Making it impossible for the spring to hold tension and causing the filament to get trapped underneath the bearing.
A metal extruder assembly, even a dual drive assembly, is only like 15-20$. So just order it with the printer. You can even find sets that come with the upgraded capricorn tubing for an extra $5 so might as well get that too. Useful for long prints. I melted the stock tube trying a 17h print at 210° PLA
24:31 super satisfying, didn't realise this was an ASMR video haha
Really enjoyed this video Vlad, really nice upgrades, I would also put the diode upgrade on the Z axis as I noticed that you manually push the drive motors with them plugged in when you are levelling, having the diodes in circuit will prevent you damaging the drive board so as like many folks manually move the Z axis its worth fitting the diode board to it, really like the bin, I thought that was the design, it looks better like that, very impressive and a lovely filament.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video, I often find people with no creative ability to make their own videos are often critical of others, ignore people telling you to clip your nails and stuff like that, nails are useful for cleaning up your prints :-)
I like the warping on the trashcan.
Man those smoothers are no joke
If you use a larger nozzle, for example 1 mm, prints like the trash can get a lot more stronger because of the thicker walls.
That peel was satisfing.
I Think you need to do more upgrades like:
- silent block for Extruder, axe X and Y (to loose decibels)
- PTFE capricorn
- and change fan support for hero me Gen2 support
This upgrades are very efficient.
(ps: i'm french, sory for my english).
cant mount silent blocs on newer ender3 pro as they come with fixed puleys and not the ones withe the classic screw , to be installed they need you to print specials brackets
wow. I also have an Ender 3 pro, but with the standard magnetic bed I was never able to print large, because there is a dent in the middle of the heated bed. Even with a glass plate from a local glass shop I cant print on the hole size :( But i haven't got any issues with the printer itself and I already have it for about a year now :D also I fried the original mainboard when I installed a new quiet fan for the heatsink, after that I bought a Creality silent mainboard. The motors got really quiet. I can really recomemnd the silent mainboard :)
The white box at the end looks great, you can use it as a lamp shade. Lol.
Короче, рассказываю про ендер3 (не про). свежие (декабрь 2018 - настоящее время) идут:
а) с резинкой на экструдере.
б) с посаженными зубчатыми колесами на моторы, их не подвинуть. а это затрудняет установку всяких резиновых\пробковых демпферов.
tl-smoothers бесполезны на принтерах этой конструкции, т.к. поверхность один хрен недостаточно гладкая, выбрать разницу можно снизив ширину слоя в софте (для сопла 0.4 можно поставить ширину 0.38 и получить такой же результат, как на видео). эти приблуды нужны ТОЛЬКО для дельта принтеров (reprap KOSSEL для примера), там профит виден очень хорошо.
магнитный стол - тема, всем советую. но необходимо понимать, что греть его выше 60 - вообще не стоит, превратится в немагнитный стол.
Care to share your print profile? Having a hard time tuning in my printer settings, these prints look flawless
"Salem Skin" 😂 Isn't it salmon skin?? Either way, I love it. Thanks for the great video man!!
Hello Vlad.Thanks for sharing theses updates. I'm really interested in the TL-smoothers. I have a question, I noticed lately that my ender 3 pro cooling fan for the main boaard turns on at full speed during the print but after the print finishes and everything is cooled off, the main board fan still stays on. Have you noticed that with your ender 3 pro? Thanks.
I like your videos because they aren't super polished. I'm getting one of these printers, and I know some of the struggles that I may run into
It's called a Capricorn tube, much better than regular Bowden tube. that other thing is called a sock. Take off the insulation and tape and use the silicone sock.
TL smoothers from Triangle labs are the best 8 diode one i dones not matter how u connect tl smother both ways work the same aso flow goes into both directions :) to get good result su need install TL smoothers on all axis XYZE, and if yours print someday will warping especialy on long parts and have not good adhesion even if magnetic sheet good okay clean it with dishwasher liquid with warm water two times with your hand rubbing surface :)
you put a diode print in the stepper line to smooth the print and it works....
basically the print puts a bunch of diodes in the power lines to the stepper.
this makes it that the stepper gets around 2 volts less than normal.
i had the same line thing on my old vertex, and according to the manual you could just adjust the current of the steppers on the driver boards and that worked very well.
try it, listen to the sound your stepper makes with the diodes
than the same without, and adjust the pot on the driver until it sounds about the same.
then test for stepper max speed and stopping power so you don't lose steps in operation.
i bet you can get better results adjusting the drivers than stealing 2 volts from them.
this way you can actually choose for more speed or even less noise ;)
It's a different "problem" these diodes are fixing. The DRV8825 are simply are poor choice for 3D printers as they were built for higher torque steppers and are "missing" some of their microsteps. IIRC it was only four steps out of 32 or something like that. It doesn't really miss anything, it's just not microstepping in that small area, because the minimum output of the DRV8825 is 12% of the max output. Each diodes drops about 0.7V, so in total 1.4V per motor phase which basically forces the driver to output more and always do the desired microstepping.
For cartesian printers the effect is not that noticable, it might be visible on round surfaces and does make the machine a bit quieter, but doesn't improve much. It's really only necessary for delta printers as it causes visible artifacts even in straight faces on them.
Coincidentially I also have this mod in a Vertex (but built it myself, no "Smoothers" commercially available back then). It is different from the voltage adjustment in the manual. I actually still run in like that because it refuses to die. :D
But the real solution is to simply avoid those DRV8825 and go with something like TMC2xxx or similar.
It does not do anything for different stepper drivers, so a lot of people that bought those boards just wasted their money.
The latest version of the standard Ender 3 now comes with the silicone hot-end cover & the slim power pack.
I just got one last week.
Also include the tube clips now too :)
Just got one last week. This is confirmed.
Nahuel José I was ready to go with the Anycubic Mega S, but seems that now the Std Ender 3 has included all these upgrades. I know PLA will be easy cake but what about some basic shapes in ABS like a phone case.
@@thecrazylooser7 I have never used ABS (and I've seen many experts advising against it as well) but the printer has ABS printing capabilities so I guess you shouldn't have any problems with it
@@thecrazylooser7 abs will need an enclosure unless it is really small. You can just put it in a plastic bag.
Darn, you didn't list which smoother holders you printed... Ordered the same brand :)
Cool fact. Just got mine in and it has extra couplings AND pre printed little clips like you upgraded Vlad.
I might have missed it in your video, but what were your print settings for the Benchy boat? So I determine how comparable my prints are to your results.
You should print in the same black color. With my own printer, I have found differences in print quality where the only thing that is changed is the color of the filament. Since your first one was black, I'd suggest using the same kind of black filament again.
Nice video. I would just say that if you used a mirror on Bad, you should improve the first layer.
I liked the 45 degree spool holder. I couldnt find it, so I will design it by myself though.
I guess it's my design (remix), available on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211 .
Would have been nice if the author of this video linked to all the mods.
Those lines on your benchy are a z rod issue most likely. I flipped the z rod so the "snag" was at the top. You rarely print to the very top so you don't see it anymore.
@5:59 "the spring looks different its more shiny" LOL
@5:56
You can get the PRO directly from Creality for $217.00 free shipping and NO tax. I was using Amazon Prime, but now that they charge tax, I will not be using them for big things like a 3D printer. I bought the PRO on Oct 9, 2019, from Creality and it was delivered Oct 12, 2019. Great Ender 3 videos. Thanks
My Ender extruder was underextruding periodically and this was because the gear was slipping in the same place every rotation. The spring wasn't strong enough.
I fixed this by adding washers to the spring nubs, then the stepper started skipping steps - fixed this by increasing the current by tweaking the pot on the E stepper driver on the board and increasing the reference voltage on it to about 0.85V. Now runs sweet.
Also important, remind everyone to check the XT60 power connector for the defective crimped batch that overheats and replace with a proper pair. Mine melted a hole in the foam on the table it was sitting on!
It doesn't help that it's mostly out of sight, so its difficult to know there's a problem until it's too late.
Could you please post the file(s) for the TL Smoother modules for the Ender 3 Pro? I am in the process of setting up my new (and first) Ender 3 Pro 3D printer and would like to install the upgrade as shown. Thank you!
Great video, I got hold of the TL smoothers and would like to use the same case, is it on Thingiversers?
my filament drive pressure roller arm cracked after about 2 months of printing 12hrs a day. Installing an all metal unit solved that.
Great videos, I have a question, my 1st printer is arriving today, and assembly should be simple, but I have zero experience with 3d printing, can you recommend a good tutorial on getting started from start to finish. I hav a thingeverse accountand know how to find the stl files, but after that I have no clue, people talking about fusion 360 and slicers programs etc.
Hi Vlad, I purchased the ender 3 pro a month ago. The new models come with silicon sock insulation.
subbed man very helpful!
For the z-axis mount, the way my motor came screwed to the mount, it would have had the cable connector facing toward the back the way you assembled yours. In the assembly instructions, the connector on the motor faces in towards the table, so I unscrewed it from the mount and re-positioned it so it looked like the picture and it seems to fit the way it should. You may not need to print the new z axis mount / replace the other one if you rotate your motor 90 degrees.
Also, thank you for all the helpful upgrade tips!
Just Vlad good video can you please tell me what settings you are using on your printer