Thank you. I didnt think about a dirty coil until I watched this video. took it off, cleaned it up and BAM!!! right back to working. Keep up the good work I learn a LOT from your videos.
MrAlembicMan, Actually , we are just north of Tennessee, about 50 miles from Bowling Green . Thank you for the great comment on my video. I'm very glad that we could help you . Some say that the rust won't hurt anything ,but some say that it will . Whizkid
aint nothin wrong with a good old boy showin you how its supposed to be done!! i will do this exact process tomm. on my b&s mow and vac motor (1990). ( also left outside but with a tarp) always had issues starting, pulling forever and would never start if hot. but i will check resistance on the coil as it just stopped dead for no reason in the middle of the run, never did that before. hope its the magneto and nothin else. thanks esrepair!!
Great video. You are the only one who mentions that rust on the mag and the flywheel will affect spark. You also are the only one so far who gives ohm values for testing the coil. Most people just change parts without testing the part to be sure its bad. I don't believe in throwing parts at a problem without knowing that the the part is definitely bad. Thanks again.
Very good video, really helped me with the cleaning of my armature-magneto on my briggs & stratton mower, now it starts every time regardless engine is hot or not. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for posting this! I've got the spark working again on a Honda Harmony 1011. It had been only firing up when it was cold, then it wouldn't start at all. I found the gap was VERY wrong, and it needed to be cleaned. Your video was detailed and helpful.
Some Briggs engines engines have a diode in the kill wire harness to the coils ,that is if it's a twin cylinder with two coils , that will prevent a coil from sparking .Check that also and make sure that the kill wire isn't grounding out against bare metal due to a bare spot in the wire . Check and make sure that the spark plug is properly grounded if you are using it that way to test for spark . Buy a spark tester if needed . Try new plug , chance new coil could be bad. Thanks, Whizkid
I would bring any small engine to you for repairs. Thanks a lot, I'm having trouble with my mower right now and I hope this will help me. Loved the video btw, just told my wife I need a bench grinder.
Thanks for the video! Your instruction worked like a charm. Magneto checked out fine with the resistance meter (volt meter). New spark plug install and yet NO SPARK. Could not figure it out. Was about to throw $30 into a new magneto when I saw your video and in about a few minutes i was running again. This also saved me a BUNCH of gasoline. I was burning twice as much gas until I did this cleaning. All these seasons, I have been wasting gas. Efficiency improvement was the icing on the cake. Thanks. Ignore all the haters and trash talker.
I had a bad magneto - problem solved. Your video's are helpful, I would add this to any newbie buying auction stuff or fixing things. If it doesn't start, don't buy it. If it doesn't start but the cord pulls and you seem to have something you can fix. Be prepared to spend at least 100 bucks on new parts. New parts . Yes, alot can be salvaged but its the 10% that can't that will drive you batsht crazy . Again thks for the video it really helped.
Thank you for this informative video! My snapper riding mower with briggs 12hp I/C Quiet Rider motor would not fire up.. after much messing around, I found out that I was not getting any spark, followed your instructions and its firing right up again! My magneto looked super rusty.. so did the flywheel, this was some long overdue maintenance.
Justin Craddock THATS WHY IM HERE, just bought a snapper for 30$ Everything is good but the wiring from the battery and only a little spark or only sometimes
Thanks for the video. My bike has a good ignition coil but no spark so I'm gonna check this out next and I've never worked on them before so now I know what I'm getting into in general. Doesn't look too bad but I dread getting to it lol
Ken , While most of the smaller engines in use today still use the air vane system for a govener there are some that actually use a govener like the bigger rideing mower motors use . Whizkid
When the air-gap is correct, Magnetos should produce near 4kV to the Spark plug, while cranking or running the engine. You must use a special tester to test magnetos during operation due to the High Voltage they create. Standard volt meters can only test up to 1kV. WhizKid shows a tester in his Checking Spark plug video. Need to spin the engine around 200 RPM to test the magneto's voltage. -MrFixit
While I'll admit that I'm not authority on mag / coils , but there should be only one wire from the coil , unless someone has put another coil on it or rigged it up.Is there a saftey switch somewhere ? Are you sure that your tiller has an electronic coil instead of a coil that requires points ? Coils that require points has two wires I believe . I'm assuming that your motor is a Briggs ? Has the motor been changed ? Seend me the make and model of tiller as well as numbers on motor and I'll see .
@temarthersyt I believe the engine wouldn't start. This video and the spark plug video are from this tiller's engine.This would help if the magneto or the flywheel ever replaced. The tiller sat outside uncovered building up rust, So WhizKid cleaned it up. -MrFixit
Another way you can test the magneto is by using an ohm meter. To test the impedance (resistance) Connect one test lead to the Spark plug wire terminal and the other test lead to the magneto's mounting bolts (or ground). The resistance is usually between 2,500 - 5,000 ohms. If measured low or infinite resistance, the coil is probably bad. -MrFixit
oojimmyflip, True ,rust will effect the spark ,but once I clean the coils and adjust the air gap, I have never had a problem with them after that if kept indoors in the dry ,at least not for a long while . Whizkid
Jean , Any small engines , two or four cycle, cannot run without the magneto . You can take the charging coil off and it'll run but it won't charge the battery . You can take the kill wire off and if it starts then it could be the magneto . I say could be as I saw one the other day produce spark but not enough to start the motor . It's not safe to start it like that but it can be done , just keep all hands , fingers and tools away from all moving parts and don't run it for long. Whizkid
Are you from Tennesee some where's ? Like around Kingsport? I knew another guy sounded just like you from up that way. Excellent video and I just pulled my cover on my 11hp 92 briggs, and was wondering about that magneto being rusty, and this was very appropriate. Take care and keep the video's coming...
Check the Spark plug gap that it's up to spec. The only thing else I can think of, rahkshi0k, is the 'kill' wire. On Solid-State magnetos (Electronic), there will be a small wire tab or wire (like the one in the video) that runs from the magneto to the kill switch. It will prevent the magneto from producing a spark if it is grounded. If it's not an electronic magneto, check the contact points for wear. WhizKid will know if theres anything else you can check and should be on tonight. -MrFixit
1) does your mum know you are pulling stuff apart in the laundry and 2) you don't look like a whizz kid using that screwdriver at 02.50 haha Great video , very helpful with a touch of humor , keep up the good work!
Good video. Do you know what the voltage should read at the plug cord end off the magneto. I've just cleaned mine and was going to crank the engine over with a drill and take a reading. By hand I can get it to 2.5 V pending how fast I spin it.
These magnetos are known as Electronic Ignition. They use no points. The air-gap between the flywheel (which contains a magnet) and the magneto (ignition coil) must be small enough to invoke a powerful magnetic field in the coil as the magnet passes the magneto without causing physical damage to the flywheel or the magneto itself. Too large a gap causes a weak spark, too small a gap and you risk damage. WhizKid's technique insures optimum spark to the spark plug by the magneto -MrFixit
GREETINGS FROM PUERTO RICO, TODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY HOY ES 10 DE SEPTIEMBRE DEL 2017, LUEGO DEL PASO DEL HURACÁN IRMA TUVE QUE UTILIZAR MIGENERADTODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR BY VARIOUS TODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS LEFT FUNCTION a TODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS ONE STOPPED TO WORK AND THANKS TO THIS VIDEO HOY ES 10 DE SEPTIEMBRE DEL 2017, LUEGO DEL PASO DEL HURACÁN IRMA TUVE QUE UTILIZAR MI GENERADOR POR VARIOS DÍAS, ESTE DEJO DE FUNCIONAR Y GRACIAS A ESTE VIDEO LO PUDE ARREGLTODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS HELPED TO WORK AND THANKS TO THIS VIDEO IT COULD BE HOY ES 10 DE SEPTIEMBRE DEL 2017, LUEGO DEL PASO DEL HURACÁN IRMA TUVE QUE UTILIZAR MI GENERADOR POR VARIOS DÍAS, ESTE DEJO DE FUNCIONAR Y GRACIAS A ESTE VIDEO LO PUDE ARREGLARTODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS HELPED TO WORK AND THANKS TO THIS VIDEO COULD ARRANGE MYSELF, THANKS 👍🇵🇷
Thanks, hathganus. I pick on Whizzy all the time, and yes, he gets me back. You think that was funny, you should watch the bloopers..... lmao! -MrFixit
Mine read 4.89. Although this is within range, is it close enough that replacement would be advisable? I ordered the new parts before realizing I could try testing and cleaning them. After cleaning them and the magnet, the mower works again.
Livio, The voltage depends on a few things . How fast the engine is turning and what kind of charging system you have . Before the diode and normal running rpms you could get up to 25 volts ac as I said before it depends . At the battery end you should have 15 - 18 volts dc . Whizkid
mikey, While there are a few people who will argue against me , the point is to clean the magneto and magnets from rust so that the magnetic field will be stronger . some say that rust will not effect the field and some say it will . I've seen them not start and I'll clean the rust off the magneto and the magnets and they'll start . The two parts must never make contact or damage will occur , but you need to properly adjust the air gap according to your engines mfgs. settings . Whizkid
I have a Briggs an Stratton 20 hp ohv engine that absolutely wouldn't start, lots of backfiring and sputtering. I just did this trick and it started instantly and is running great. Thanks a million!
Nice video. I have an old Wolesley Tiller with Aspera engine, TA633 / FAB12, getting no spark. Once I get the flywheel knocked off the machine I'm hoping to put your instructions to work!
I got a motor just like that on a yardman tiller I bought at an auction last week Where does the longer of the to wires go from the mag/coil One goes to the off/run idle Wheres the other go?
Zukairo , Yes , it's possible . You will just have to do the math to figure out how big the blades need to be .to produce the power ad if the alt. will turn in the that the blades need to turn to produce the right amount of power . You will also need to figure out how to attach the blades safely and if the alt. can produce the amps and voltage for your application depending on a what kind of battery you are charging . You also need a good windy day with enough wind to turn blades . Whizkid
what are the two wires directly connected to that hooks to the coil?i have a tiller 5hp. that has one wire broken that was red and another broken off.please tell me where you connect those.one might be kill switch but it is electric start and has wires that run down to the strator.thanks
I wouldn't be much help, since I do not work on Lawn mowers. I'd double check the belts and linkages. It's possible something was missed or jammed. I'll pass it on to WhizKid. He may need the model # so he can help you. -MrFixit
Hi, we have a petrol hedge cutter that goes rusty in the shed killing the spark every year which means a total strip down to get it going every year, is there a conductive spray paint i can use to keep the surfaces clean does anybody know of one please?
any rust buildup between the magnets on the flywheel and the coils will effect your spark sono leaving it out in the rain wont help it will give you a weak spark to prevent corrosion on the magnets inside the flywheel they used to use some sort of varnish but no more in modern electronic ignition engines, these days I have heard of people using clear nail varnish to prebent the rust occuring if stored over winter outside.
Livio , Are you talking about the charging system or the spark plug coil ( iginition coil ) . The magneto is in the thousands and takes special testers . Whizkid
hathganus, Yes ,I do have an idea what's wrong . You have either put the belts on wrong ( drive belts ) or you have left a spring off of an idler pulley or hooked the spring in the wrong place . I've seen it happen plenty of times . Whizkid By the way where do you live ?
Hi sir,i wanted to know if it possible to use a car altenator to attach wind blades and charge a battery.Than u very much for all your video,i"ve learn a lot of things from your videos.Hats off sir
The motor , especially if it's a Briggs , will have a Model no ,Type no. and a Code no . Send me all three of these . Kohler motors as well as Kawasakis will have engine id. numbers or engine family numbers ,etc. Send me all the numbers that you find on your motor , on the top of the shroud as well as on the engine sticker located on the side of the motor , as well as model no. of your tiller and I'll look them up and get back to you as quickly as possible Whizkid
I shall, finding OEM parts for this thing becomes quite costly very fast and you can only do it through auction sites. Never know if they're worth buying or not either. If it's totally different I'll just pay my friend to handle it for me.
wait just one second, at 5:36 you claim that the coils with the 3rd pick-up are older. i thought the coils with the 3rd pick-up were the new ones that didn't need the points and the ones with 2 pick-ups were the older ones that needed the points. i have put one of those 3 pick-up ones on an engine and it runs just fine without points.
You are wrong. I just cleaned up the armature-magneto that was covered up with grease and dirt. When it gets dirty, it will start the first time, then after engine gets hot, it will not start until it cools down, after cleaning it, my mower starts every time.
I'm Calling BS on that and here is your proof in the pudding from The University of Illinois Physics Dept they state that "Rust is a lot less magnetic than iron. An iron magnet will probably still work almost as well when it has a thin coating of rust on it, but if it has rusted so badly that most of the metal is gone, then it will not work very well as a magnet. Rust is an insulator, meaning that it doesn't conduct electricity easily, unlike iron, which is a metallic conductor. So if some electrical connection is made with iron, it's likely to go bad when the iron surface rusts. " by Tom J. and .......
"Rust and corrosion strongly affect the magnetic properties of metals. Ferromagnetic metals like iron in which interactions between the electrons of neighboring atoms tend to make their little bits of magnetism point in the same direction, forming magnetic domains. In a magnetic field, these domains line up with the field making a strong magnet. Other common ferromagnetic metals are nickel, and cobalt. Some of the strongest magnets are made with . In some materials, the domains can get stuck so the material stays magnetized even when the field is removed, leaving a permanent magnet, but that usually involves introducing some non-magnetic components. Rusting and corrosion introduce atoms of other elements (typically oxygen), making new chemical forms with different interactions between neighboring atoms’ electrons. Usually these end up either non-ferromagnetic or less ferromagnetic than the pure magnetic metal. There are several different oxides of iron, with different fractions of oxygen. They are Fe0, Fe2O3, and Fe3O4. Rust consists mostly of Fe2O3, with additional water molecules attached. There are several forms of Fe2O3, and a common mineral composed of Fe2O3 is called hematite, which is a shiny-blackish mineral. Hematite is not ferromagnetic, but it does still respond to a magnetic field and will be attracted to the poles of a permanent magnet. Hematite itself has the interesting property of being nearly antiferromagnetic, in which the spinning electrons producing magnetic fields in neighboring atom groups like to align opposite to one another, canceling their fields out. This isn’t perfect in hematite, with a small tip, or "canting" of the spins so that they don’t cancel exactly, hence the attraction to the poles of a permanent magnet. I suspect that the addition of water molecules in ordinary orangey-yellow rust does not help the material become more magnetic than its hematite cousin, but it’s hard to be less magnetic than an antiferromagnet. Why don’t you try an experiment? FeO is also not ferromagnetic, but it is pulled about twice as much as Fe2O3 towards the poles of a magnet. Magnetite, Fe3O4, is ferromagnetic, and is about 1/4 as strong as pure iron. One warning is that rust may be a collection of the different oxides quite possibly other contaminants. In particular, there may be bits of unrusted iron left in a sample of rust, and these would be attracted very strongly to a magnet. Some substances change the signs of their response entirely when they corrode. For instance, aluminum is very weakly attracted to the poles of magnets, while aluminum oxide is very weakly repelled by the poles of magnets. The scientific words for these interactions is: Materials attracted by magnets: Paramagnetic Materials repelled by magnets: Diamagnetic Materials which spontaneously form magnetized domains: Ferromagnetic Materials in which neighboring spins like to align opposite to each other: Antiferromagnetic Only ferromagnets are useful for making permanent magnets. Paramagnetic and diamagnetic forces tend to be very weak, except for the diamagnetism of superconductors, which is strong enough to levitate them. U.S. nickels contain rather little nickel -- they are about 75% copper, and only 25% nickel. This alloy seems to be not very magnetic. Older pure nickel nickels stick to magnets. Pennies are 97.5% zinc with a thin coating of copper on the outside. Some steels (steel is mostly made of iron) are more magnetic than others. Try comparing stainless steel with other kinds of steel you might find around the house. Two suggestions of things that can affect your experiments: 1) Rust and corrosion usually only occur in a very thin layer of the material near the surface. The rest of the material will be just as magnetic as it ever was, just minus the rusty layer. You may not notice any effect of the rust if most of the material is intact. 2) The shape and orientation of the metal object is very important in determining how strongly it will be attracted to a magnet. Be sure that the shapes of your uncorroded and corroded objects are the same when you compare their magnetic attraction or you could have other effects confusing the results. Good luck! Tom J. and Mike W. " again from the physics dept :-)
![[FULL EP.14] เซียนหรั่ง สอน มาร์ชจุ จับปูนา ฮากระจาย | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M8mPjd_T2lo/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you. I didnt think about a dirty coil until I watched this video. took it off, cleaned it up and BAM!!! right back to working. Keep up the good work I learn a LOT from your videos.
MrAlembicMan,
Actually , we are just north of Tennessee, about 50 miles from Bowling Green . Thank you for the great comment on my video. I'm very glad that we could help you . Some say that the rust won't hurt anything ,but some say that it will .
Whizkid
aint nothin wrong with a good old boy showin you how its supposed to be done!! i will do this exact process tomm. on my b&s mow and vac motor (1990). ( also left outside but with a tarp) always had issues starting, pulling forever and would never start if hot. but i will check resistance on the coil as it just stopped dead for no reason in the middle of the run, never did that before. hope its the magneto and nothin else. thanks esrepair!!
Great video. You are the only one who mentions that rust on the mag and the flywheel will affect spark. You also are the only one so far who gives ohm values for testing the coil. Most people just change parts without testing the part to be sure its bad. I don't believe in throwing parts at a problem without knowing that the the part is definitely bad.
Thanks again.
Very good video, really helped me with the cleaning of my armature-magneto on my briggs & stratton mower, now it starts every time regardless engine is hot or not. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for posting this! I've got the spark working again on a Honda Harmony 1011. It had been only firing up when it was cold, then it wouldn't start at all. I found the gap was VERY wrong, and it needed to be cleaned. Your video was detailed and helpful.
Some Briggs engines engines have a diode in the kill wire harness to the coils ,that is if it's a twin cylinder with two coils , that will prevent a coil from sparking .Check that also and make sure that the kill wire isn't grounding out against bare metal due to a bare spot in the wire . Check and make sure that the spark plug is properly grounded if you are using it that way to test for spark . Buy a spark tester if needed . Try new plug , chance new coil could be bad.
Thanks,
Whizkid
I would bring any small engine to you for repairs. Thanks a lot, I'm having trouble with my mower right now and I hope this will help me. Loved the video btw, just told my wife I need a bench grinder.
Good job explaining and with all the details; you made it very easy to follow and for others to reproduce the same results!
Thanks for the video! Your instruction worked like a charm. Magneto checked out fine with the resistance meter (volt meter). New spark plug install and yet NO SPARK. Could not figure it out. Was about to throw $30 into a new magneto when I saw your video and in about a few minutes i was running again.
This also saved me a BUNCH of gasoline. I was burning twice as much gas until I did this cleaning. All these seasons, I have been wasting gas. Efficiency improvement was the icing on the cake. Thanks.
Ignore all the haters and trash talker.
Very good video!! I followed the instructions and my motor is running like a champ now. Thanks, ESRepair!!!
Thank you , MontyWard73. Saving the everyday person money was our intention in putting up these videos . Keep on watching our videos .
Whizkid
Thank you , Terry . We wish you the same for a Merry Christmas . I'll keep up the good work .
Whizkid
You just saved me a bundle. Thanks a lot for putting this video up.
I had a bad magneto - problem solved. Your video's are helpful, I would add this to any newbie buying auction stuff or fixing things. If it doesn't start, don't buy it. If it doesn't start but the cord pulls and you seem to have something you can fix. Be prepared to spend at least 100 bucks on new parts.
New parts . Yes, alot can be salvaged but its the 10% that can't that will drive you batsht crazy . Again thks for the video it really helped.
I have thoroughly enjoyed this video! It was entertaining, yet helpfully informative. I will now go change my magneto. :-)
Thanks for this! I'm dealing with it now. I was lost until I found this vid.
Great Vid yet again explained how Magneto works going to tackle my Honda now hope it's similar cheers once again.
That was a great video and some of this information I knew, but some I had forgotten. I want to thank you for sharing this information with all of us.
nojokeve,
Thank you I'm glad the video was entertaining and informative to you . Glad that we could help .
Thank you,
Whizkid
Thank you for this informative video! My snapper riding mower with briggs 12hp I/C Quiet Rider motor would not fire up.. after much messing around, I found out that I was not getting any spark, followed your instructions and its firing right up again! My magneto looked super rusty.. so did the flywheel, this was some long overdue maintenance.
Justin Craddock THATS WHY IM HERE, just bought a snapper for 30$ Everything is good but the wiring from the battery and only a little spark or only sometimes
pxmstr ,
Thank you for the delightful comment . Glad you enjoyed the video . K eep the good comments comming.
Whizkid
Thanks for the video. My bike has a good ignition coil but no spark so I'm gonna check this out next and I've never worked on them before so now I know what I'm getting into in general. Doesn't look too bad but I dread getting to it lol
Ken ,
While most of the smaller engines in use today still use the air vane system for a govener there are some that actually use a govener like the bigger rideing mower motors use .
Whizkid
That was a very informative and easy to follow. Thank you!
Thanks man for the video, Appreciate it.
@Abohnher Bastard ???? I take it that to mean by the rest of your comment that you mean it as a compliment , because I made it look so easy !!!!
When the air-gap is correct, Magnetos should produce near 4kV to the Spark plug, while cranking or running the engine. You must use a special tester to test magnetos during operation due to the High Voltage they create. Standard volt meters can only test up to 1kV. WhizKid shows a tester in his Checking Spark plug video. Need to spin the engine around 200 RPM to test the magneto's voltage. -MrFixit
Thanks for a great video!
While I'll admit that I'm not authority on mag / coils , but there should be only one wire from the coil , unless someone has put another coil on it or rigged it up.Is there a saftey switch somewhere ? Are you sure that your tiller has an electronic coil instead of a coil that requires points ? Coils that require points has two wires I believe . I'm assuming that your motor is a Briggs ? Has the motor been changed ? Seend me the make and model of tiller as well as numbers on motor and I'll see .
@temarthersyt I believe the engine wouldn't start. This video and the spark plug video are from this tiller's engine.This would help if the magneto or the flywheel ever replaced. The tiller sat outside uncovered building up rust, So WhizKid cleaned it up. -MrFixit
this is the video that i was looking for thanks bro.
HEY WIZKID.. WANTED TO WISH YOU AND YOUR FAMILY A VERY WONDERFUL AND BLESSED CHRISTMAS.. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK MY FRIEND.. TERRY LUMPKINS
Thanks Wiz Kid, this was helpful.
Great video👍
Another way you can test the magneto is by using an ohm meter. To test the impedance (resistance) Connect one test lead to the Spark plug wire terminal and the other test lead to the magneto's mounting bolts (or ground). The resistance is usually between 2,500 - 5,000 ohms. If measured low or infinite resistance, the coil is probably bad. -MrFixit
This dude works on cars and washes clothes at the same time ! Now that's bad ass !!
oojimmyflip,
True ,rust will effect the spark ,but once I clean the coils and adjust the air gap, I have never had a problem with them after that if kept indoors in the dry ,at least not for a long while .
Whizkid
gwagon2010,
What she dosen't know won't hurt her . Thanks and we'll keep up the good work.
whizkid
Jean ,
Any small engines , two or four cycle, cannot run without the magneto . You can take the charging coil off and it'll run but it won't charge the battery . You can take the kill wire off and if it starts then it could be the magneto . I say could be as I saw one the other day produce spark but not enough to start the motor . It's not safe to start it like that but it can be done , just keep all hands , fingers and tools away from all moving parts and don't run it for long.
Whizkid
Thank you. This worked for me.
Great job - thanks!
Are you from Tennesee some where's ? Like around Kingsport? I knew another guy sounded just like you from up that way. Excellent video and I just pulled my cover on my 11hp 92 briggs, and was wondering about that magneto being rusty, and this was very appropriate.
Take care and keep the video's coming...
very helpful, thanks for sharing this
Thanks Boss Hogg....great video love the accent😉
Check the Spark plug gap that it's up to spec. The only thing else I can think of, rahkshi0k, is the 'kill' wire. On Solid-State magnetos (Electronic), there will be a small wire tab or wire (like the one in the video) that runs from the magneto to the kill switch. It will prevent the magneto from producing a spark if it is grounded. If it's not an electronic magneto, check the contact points for wear. WhizKid will know if theres anything else you can check and should be on tonight. -MrFixit
1) does your mum know you are pulling stuff apart in the laundry
and 2) you don't look like a whizz kid using that screwdriver at 02.50 haha
Great video , very helpful with a touch of humor , keep up the good work!
Excellent information.
Thank you , Doug Parker.
Whizkid
Good video. Do you know what the voltage should read at the plug cord end off the magneto. I've just cleaned mine and was going to crank the engine over with a drill and take a reading. By hand I can get it to 2.5 V pending how fast I spin it.
Hi wiz! Great vid! I'm getting zero spark at start position but if it's in run position it will produce spark, any idea why?
hathganus,
Thank you hopefully .I can get some new videos on line shortly.
Whizkid
These magnetos are known as Electronic Ignition. They use no points. The air-gap between the flywheel (which contains a magnet) and the magneto (ignition coil) must be small enough to invoke a powerful magnetic field in the coil as the magnet passes the magneto without causing physical damage to the flywheel or the magneto itself. Too large a gap causes a weak spark, too small a gap and you risk damage. WhizKid's technique insures optimum spark to the spark plug by the magneto -MrFixit
Great video. !!!!! Thanks
Chowdy,
Thank you ,
Whizkid
Thanks Bud!
Is there an English version?
GREETINGS FROM PUERTO RICO, TODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY HOY ES 10 DE SEPTIEMBRE DEL 2017, LUEGO DEL PASO DEL HURACÁN IRMA TUVE QUE UTILIZAR MIGENERADTODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR BY VARIOUS TODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS LEFT FUNCTION a TODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS ONE STOPPED TO WORK AND THANKS TO THIS VIDEO HOY ES 10 DE SEPTIEMBRE DEL 2017, LUEGO DEL PASO DEL HURACÁN IRMA TUVE QUE UTILIZAR MI GENERADOR POR VARIOS DÍAS, ESTE DEJO DE FUNCIONAR Y GRACIAS A ESTE VIDEO LO PUDE ARREGLTODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS HELPED TO WORK AND THANKS TO THIS VIDEO IT COULD BE HOY ES 10 DE SEPTIEMBRE DEL 2017, LUEGO DEL PASO DEL HURACÁN IRMA TUVE QUE UTILIZAR MI GENERADOR POR VARIOS DÍAS, ESTE DEJO DE FUNCIONAR Y GRACIAS A ESTE VIDEO LO PUDE ARREGLARTODAY IS SEPTEMBER 10, 2017, AFTER THE HURRICANE STEP IRMA HAD TO USE MY GENERATOR FOR SEVERAL DAYS, THIS HELPED TO WORK AND THANKS TO THIS VIDEO COULD ARRANGE MYSELF, THANKS 👍🇵🇷
Thanks, hathganus. I pick on Whizzy all the time, and yes, he gets me back. You think that was funny, you should watch the bloopers..... lmao! -MrFixit
Mine read 4.89. Although this is within range, is it close enough that replacement would be advisable? I ordered the new parts before realizing I could try testing and cleaning them. After cleaning them and the magnet, the mower works again.
Livio,
The voltage depends on a few things . How fast the engine is turning and what kind of charging system you have . Before the diode and normal running rpms you could get up to 25 volts ac as I said before it depends . At the battery end you should have 15 - 18 volts dc .
Whizkid
mikey,
While there are a few people who will argue against me , the point is to clean the magneto and magnets from rust so that the magnetic field will be stronger . some say that rust will not effect the field and some say it will . I've seen them not start and I'll clean the rust off the magneto and the magnets and they'll start . The two parts must never make contact or damage will occur , but you need to properly adjust the air gap according to your engines mfgs. settings .
Whizkid
I have a Briggs an Stratton 20 hp ohv engine that absolutely wouldn't start, lots of backfiring and sputtering. I just did this trick and it started instantly and is running great. Thanks a million!
Nice video. I have an old Wolesley Tiller with Aspera engine, TA633 / FAB12, getting no spark. Once I get the flywheel knocked off the machine I'm hoping to put your instructions to work!
judge dredd ,
Thank you for the comment .
Whizkid
I got a motor just like that on a yardman tiller I bought at an auction last week Where does the longer of the to wires go from the mag/coil One goes to the off/run idle Wheres the other go?
I wasn't sure of the air gap. The business card idea is great.
good video
Good Job Thanks
Zukairo ,
Yes , it's possible . You will just have to do the math to figure out how big the blades need to be .to produce the power ad if the alt. will turn in the that the blades need to turn to produce the right amount of power . You will also need to figure out how to attach the blades safely and if the alt. can produce the amps and voltage for your application depending on a what kind of battery you are charging . You also need a good windy day with enough wind to turn blades .
Whizkid
what are the two wires directly connected to that hooks to the coil?i have a tiller 5hp. that has one wire broken that was red and another broken off.please tell me where you connect those.one might be kill switch but it is electric start and has wires that run down to the strator.thanks
Robert ,
Can you get me a model number of the tiller and motor ?
Whizkid
Perumet ,
It's a early to mid 1990's Briggs and Stratton OHV 14 hp vertical shaft engine .
Whizkid
I wouldn't be much help, since I do not work on Lawn mowers. I'd double check the belts and linkages. It's possible something was missed or jammed. I'll pass it on to WhizKid. He may need the model # so he can help you. -MrFixit
Hi, we have a petrol hedge cutter that goes rusty in the shed killing the spark every year which means a total strip down to get it going every year, is there a conductive spray paint i can use to keep the surfaces clean does anybody know of one please?
any rust buildup between the magnets on the flywheel and the coils will effect your spark sono leaving it out in the rain wont help it will give you a weak spark to prevent corrosion on the magnets inside the flywheel they used to use some sort of varnish but no more in modern electronic ignition engines, these days I have heard of people using clear nail varnish to prebent the rust occuring if stored over winter outside.
Livio ,
Are you talking about the charging system or the spark plug coil ( iginition coil ) . The magneto is in the thousands and takes special testers .
Whizkid
hathganus,
Yes ,I do have an idea what's wrong . You have either put the belts on wrong ( drive belts ) or you have left a spring off of an idler pulley or hooked the spring in the wrong place . I've seen it happen plenty of times .
Whizkid
By the way where do you live ?
Removes,
I've never worked on a bike before so I imagine that their different . Becareful .
Whizkid
Thank You
love your accent bro
Hi sir,i wanted to know if it possible to use a car altenator to attach wind blades and charge a battery.Than u very much for all your video,i"ve learn a lot of things from your videos.Hats off sir
mcmoney86,
Your welcome.
Whizkid
What kind of engine is that?? I think I have the same one... I need a magneto for mine.
Hard to see in dim light...but very helpful ntl...👌
The video helped me hover I think you forgot to put the air deflector back on in the video.
Could I have a translation, please? What language is this?
The motor , especially if it's a Briggs , will have a Model no ,Type no. and a Code no . Send me all three of these . Kohler motors as well as Kawasakis will have engine id. numbers or engine family numbers ,etc. Send me all the numbers that you find on your motor , on the top of the shroud as well as on the engine sticker located on the side of the motor , as well as model no. of your tiller and I'll look them up and get back to you as quickly as possible
Whizkid
WD40 or keeping it in out of the rain will help ,oojimmyflip.
Whizkid
Can i ask how can i check if the magneto is broke?? I took it off to clean the carb now im not getting a spark please help its not my lawnmower lool
He should've used emery cloth so there wouldn't be "sandpaper" grit all in the flywheel - blowing air around may push the grit in further!
NICE PICTURE , PRETTY LADY !!!
I shall, finding OEM parts for this thing becomes quite costly very fast and you can only do it through auction sites. Never know if they're worth buying or not either. If it's totally different I'll just pay my friend to handle it for me.
wait just one second, at 5:36 you claim that the coils with the 3rd pick-up are older. i thought the coils with the 3rd pick-up were the new ones that didn't need the points and the ones with 2 pick-ups were the older ones that needed the points. i have put one of those 3 pick-up ones on an engine and it runs just fine without points.
Watcheruvdatube yo,
Sorry ,but I don't do that stuff . That's my natural voice .
Whizkid
Cleaning the magnets or the coil pickups does nothing sept look better.
You are wrong. I just cleaned up the armature-magneto that was covered up with grease and dirt. When it gets dirty, it will start the first time, then after engine gets hot, it will not start until it cools down, after cleaning it, my mower starts every time.
That is what he said.
Thank you , discolemonade66.
Whizkid
no to crack )))lol
are you sure you have done this before...?
Anna ,
Yes . I have done this before . Hundreds of times !!!!
Whizkid
Video is too dark. Besides that is good references
Jorge
Your name has to be " BUBBA "
SuperGmafsBro,
Nope . Is it yours ???
Whizkid
ESRepair
rust doesn't have any effect on magnetism
"rust doesn't have any effect on magnetism" ? It's magnetic, isn't it?
I'm Calling BS on that and here is your proof in the pudding from The University of Illinois Physics Dept they state that "Rust is a lot less magnetic than iron. An iron magnet will probably still work almost as well when it has a thin coating of rust on it, but if it has rusted so badly that most of the metal is gone, then it will not work very well as a magnet.
Rust is an insulator, meaning that it doesn't conduct electricity easily, unlike iron, which is a metallic conductor. So if some electrical connection is made with iron, it's likely to go bad when the iron surface rusts. " by Tom J. and .......
"Rust and corrosion strongly affect the magnetic properties of metals. Ferromagnetic metals like iron in which interactions between the electrons of neighboring atoms tend to make their little bits of magnetism point in the same direction, forming magnetic domains. In a magnetic field, these domains line up with the field making a strong magnet. Other common ferromagnetic metals are nickel, and cobalt. Some of the strongest magnets are made with . In some materials, the domains can get stuck so the material stays magnetized even when the field is removed, leaving a permanent magnet, but that usually involves introducing some non-magnetic components.
Rusting and corrosion introduce atoms of other elements (typically oxygen), making new chemical forms with different interactions between neighboring atoms’ electrons. Usually these end up either non-ferromagnetic or less ferromagnetic than the pure magnetic metal. There are several different oxides of iron, with different fractions of oxygen. They are Fe0, Fe2O3, and Fe3O4. Rust consists mostly of Fe2O3, with additional water molecules attached. There are several forms of Fe2O3, and a common mineral composed of Fe2O3 is called hematite, which is a shiny-blackish mineral. Hematite is not ferromagnetic, but it does still respond to a magnetic field and will be attracted to the poles of a permanent magnet. Hematite itself has the interesting property of being nearly antiferromagnetic, in which the spinning electrons producing magnetic fields in neighboring atom groups like to align opposite to one another, canceling their fields out. This isn’t perfect in hematite, with a small tip, or "canting" of the spins so that they don’t cancel exactly, hence the attraction to the poles of a permanent magnet. I suspect that the addition of water molecules in ordinary orangey-yellow rust does not help the material become more magnetic than its hematite cousin, but it’s hard to be less magnetic than an antiferromagnet. Why don’t you try an experiment? FeO is also not ferromagnetic, but it is pulled about twice as much as Fe2O3 towards the poles of a magnet. Magnetite, Fe3O4, is ferromagnetic, and is about 1/4 as strong as pure iron. One warning is that rust may be a collection of the different oxides quite possibly other contaminants. In particular, there may be bits of unrusted iron left in a sample of rust, and these would be attracted very strongly to a magnet.
Some substances change the signs of their response entirely when they corrode. For instance, aluminum is very weakly attracted to the poles of magnets, while aluminum oxide is very weakly repelled by the poles of magnets. The scientific words for these interactions is:
Materials attracted by magnets: Paramagnetic
Materials repelled by magnets: Diamagnetic
Materials which spontaneously form magnetized domains: Ferromagnetic
Materials in which neighboring spins like to align opposite to each other: Antiferromagnetic
Only ferromagnets are useful for making permanent magnets. Paramagnetic and diamagnetic forces tend to be very weak, except for the diamagnetism of superconductors, which is strong enough to levitate them.
U.S. nickels contain rather little nickel -- they are about 75% copper, and only 25% nickel. This alloy seems to be not very magnetic. Older pure nickel nickels stick to magnets. Pennies are 97.5% zinc with a thin coating of copper on the outside.
Some steels (steel is mostly made of iron) are more magnetic than others. Try comparing stainless steel with other kinds of steel you might find around the house.
Two suggestions of things that can affect your experiments:
1) Rust and corrosion usually only occur in a very thin layer of the material near the surface. The rest of the material will be just as magnetic as it ever was, just minus the rusty layer. You may not notice any effect of the rust if most of the material is intact.
2) The shape and orientation of the metal object is very important in determining how strongly it will be attracted to a magnet. Be sure that the shapes of your uncorroded and corroded objects are the same when you compare their magnetic attraction or you could have other effects confusing the results.
Good luck!
Tom J. and Mike W. " again from the physics dept :-)
WD 40
What?