The problem with putting something in the fins to loosen the nut is a high probability of snapping off one of the fins. If that happens the flywheel is ruined and you have to get another one. The better option is an impact wrench (air powered or cordless).
You can use a couple microwave transformers to recharge these. Disassemble the transformers saving both primary coils. Put 2 primary coils on one transformer core and wire in parallel. Next attach the magnet to the outside of the E core and center. Apply power from an old school jump type battery charger or a DC arc welder briefly. Give it 3 one second zaps to start. The magnet should be noticably stronger and require a bit of force to free from the transformer core. Make sure the magneto is close to it when the flywheel is reinstalled, a buisness card is about the right gap.❤
Use IMPACT for less stress on your flywheel. First: to loosten the nut ... Use an Impact driver or just hit the side of your ratchet handle with a hammer. Second: Snug up the wheel puller and then tap the top of the screw with a hammer. This will prevent broken fins or distorted flywheels. One more tip: when using Liquid Wrench or Kroil to loosten a rusty nut, Hit the side of the nut with a hammer before putting a wrench on it. You'll shatter many of the rust crystals that freeze the nut in place.
Hello Brian, He'd be btr off to check out powerful electro-magnets from micro-wave ovens. I did that a few months ago hooked up to a car battery, the transformer magnet was VERY powerfull. seems it would be a much better way to zap up the strength of a flywheel magnet.
Purpose of a tapered shaft: It has to do with precision positioning of the center of the flywheel onto the crankshaft and zero clearance between the flywheel and crankshaft. With a straight shaft engine, you'll have a small amount of wobble because of the tolerances needed to be able to slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft (maybe as little as 0.001"). Over time, that clearance can expand to 0.002, then to 0.003 and beyond due to engine vibrations acting like a hammer between the flywheel and crankshaft. With a tapered shaft, that clearance is 0.0000" and will stay there; keeping the flywheel exactly centered on the crankshaft as long as you don't introduce any foreign material like dirt, anti-seize compound or lubricating grease. Generators use the same tapered shaft to eliminate the need for a flexible coupling and front support bearing between the engine and generator. The key is there to prevent rotational forces from changing the ignition timing and also to prevent the inertia of the flywheel from breaking the crankshaft if the output shaft comes to a sudden halt. They do sell offset keys for those who need to change the ignition timing a few degrees.
I don;t think you changed the magnetization of your flywheel magnets very much. I think the reason your engine would not run is likely a broken key allowing the flywheel to turn slightly on the crankshaft, this probably resulted in advanced ignition timing, preventing the engine from starting.
+Oliver Ward Flywheel keys are soft and designed to shear if the flywheel moves on the shaft. The taper is meant to lock the flywheel on the shaft and the key is for locating the flywheel on the crankshaft for ignition timing only.
+The Junkologist's Junk Heap oh OK it was just that one of my small engines had a hardened steel key on it stock so I thought they were meant to hold it.
+Oliver Ward Some older engines do have a steel key, like Clintons, Tecumseh, and Lauson, but imagine what would happen if you hit something with your mower blade and the flywheel rotated on the crank shaft with a steel key in there. You could end up with a cracked flywheel or a blown out keyway in the crankshaft. Lubing the crankshaft on a modern mower with a soft key like in the video is just asking for a sheared key. Briggs engines used a soft key from the very beginning back in the 1920's. They were smart and always mentioned in their manuals that the taper should be assembled dry.
I stand in awe of the MISINFORMATION that is proffered to the viewers here on you tube. Folks who have not the remotest notion of what they are talking about make videos to "instruct" others. God save us all !
Maybe someone can enlighten me. Why are there two magnets on a fly wheel with only one coil? At high rpms of even normal operation with so small a distance between them how does it influence the coil?
That's a BIG no no greasing the taper at 6:40 as the tapers should be clean and dry. Proper torque of the flywheel nut will keep the flywheel tight to the crank. Any lube on the tapers and the flywheel will slip, shearing the alignment key.
It didnt improve it all that much but to use the drill to start it shows that it wont start on the rope starter for some reason and it took a while to fire up. Good Theory but I think you need a better way of boosting the magnets.
lol i couldn't help but begin laughing the very moment this video started. I thought oh man his arm is all jacked up hopefully not from a repair. lol. Then, when he uses a screwdriver in between the cooling fins to prevent the flywheel from rotating...well it is a great way to break off a fin or two and throw it out of balance lol. It is all so comical in the first 1 1/2 minutes. Not trying to be a jerk it just caught me off guard and my thought at that point was, maybe he should be watching some instructional videos instead of making them wherein someone with little or no mechanical experience might do irreparable damage to their equipment or themselves and have to wear an ace bandage as well. ;-)
This is ridiculous. That looks to me like an ac welder so how the funk can you magnetise those flywheel magnets with ac? Not even running magnetic flux in a circuit through the two magnets.
Not a good idea to put a bar in flywheel fins to lock it while undoing nut. You will break the fins doing that. You need to get a proper flywheel locking tool ie a strap wrench that holds on outside of flywheel. How on earth is welding a piece of steel plate going to re magnetise the magnet, as others have said a load of bollocks. This method will not re magnetise the flywheel. What does picking up nuts prove, the magnets were probably OK in the first place
The current passing thru the iron plate during the current flow creates a magnetic field as all ferrous metals do when current flows. Because the magneto iron is within the invisible magnetic field it WILL magnetize and ferrous metal within the field like the magneto iron. research right hand rule of current flow, one of the most basic rules of electro-magnetic theory.
The entire video is a compendium of everything you should NOT do to remagnetise magnets. The videos made by folks who have NO idea what the Hell they are demonstrating is rife on you tube. There are, of course, some excellent sites.
I used a 4 way cross wrench for the flywheel and sparkplug. My magnet seems to be ok, the sparks returned after replacing the ignition coil.
The problem with putting something in the fins to loosen the nut is a high probability of snapping off one of the fins. If that happens the flywheel is ruined and you have to get another one.
The better option is an impact wrench (air powered or cordless).
You can use a couple microwave transformers to recharge these. Disassemble the transformers saving both primary coils. Put 2 primary coils on one transformer core and wire in parallel. Next attach the magnet to the outside of the E core and center. Apply power from an old school jump type battery charger or a DC arc welder briefly. Give it 3 one second zaps to start. The magnet should be noticably stronger and require a bit of force to free from the transformer core. Make sure the magneto is close to it when the flywheel is reinstalled, a buisness card is about the right gap.❤
That before and after demo is darn near believable.
Use IMPACT for less stress on your flywheel.
First: to loosten the nut ... Use an Impact driver or just hit the side of your ratchet handle with a hammer.
Second: Snug up the wheel puller and then tap the top of the screw with a hammer.
This will prevent broken fins or distorted flywheels.
One more tip: when using Liquid Wrench or Kroil to loosten a rusty nut, Hit the side of the nut with a hammer before putting a wrench on it. You'll shatter many of the rust crystals that freeze the nut in place.
But take into account that impacting the flywheel can cause it to demagnetize so then he would be back to square 1
Hello Brian, He'd be btr off to check out powerful electro-magnets from micro-wave ovens.
I did that a few months ago hooked up to a car battery, the transformer magnet was VERY
powerfull. seems it would be a much better way to zap up the strength of a flywheel magnet.
Yup those work well. The gap is perfect for most flywheels for smaller stuff as well. Stack two primary windings in parallel and it's even stronger.
Good way to bugger-up/break the fins on your magneto. Use a large screwdriver or bar to lock your blade plate underneath.
Purpose of a tapered shaft: It has to do with precision positioning of the center of the flywheel onto the crankshaft and zero clearance between the flywheel and crankshaft. With a straight shaft engine, you'll have a small amount of wobble because of the tolerances needed to be able to slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft (maybe as little as 0.001"). Over time, that clearance can expand to 0.002, then to 0.003 and beyond due to engine vibrations acting like a hammer between the flywheel and crankshaft. With a tapered shaft, that clearance is 0.0000" and will stay there; keeping the flywheel exactly centered on the crankshaft as long as you don't introduce any foreign material like dirt, anti-seize compound or lubricating grease. Generators use the same tapered shaft to eliminate the need for a flexible coupling and front support bearing between the engine and generator. The key is there to prevent rotational forces from changing the ignition timing and also to prevent the inertia of the flywheel from breaking the crankshaft if the output shaft comes to a sudden halt. They do sell offset keys for those who need to change the ignition timing a few degrees.
You have 2 sets of magnets 🧲 on a fly correct? Does one set suppose to be weaker than the other set???
I don;t think you changed the magnetization of your flywheel magnets very much. I think the reason your engine would not run is likely a broken key allowing the flywheel to turn slightly on the crankshaft, this probably resulted in advanced ignition timing, preventing the engine from starting.
You should never put lubricant on a tapered shaft like that. It defeats the whole purpose of the locking function of the taper.
it's not as bad in this case as there is also a key on the shaft. but you are correct
+Oliver Ward Flywheel keys are soft and designed to shear if the flywheel moves on the shaft. The taper is meant to lock the flywheel on the shaft and the key is for locating the flywheel on the crankshaft for ignition timing only.
+The Junkologist's Junk Heap oh OK it was just that one of my small engines had a hardened steel key on it stock so I thought they were meant to hold it.
+Oliver Ward Some older engines do have a steel key, like Clintons, Tecumseh, and Lauson, but imagine what would happen if you hit something with your mower blade and the flywheel rotated on the crank shaft with a steel key in there. You could end up with a cracked flywheel or a blown out keyway in the crankshaft. Lubing the crankshaft on a modern mower with a soft key like in the video is just asking for a sheared key. Briggs engines used a soft key from the very beginning back in the 1920's. They were smart and always mentioned in their manuals that the taper should be assembled dry.
+The Junkologist's Junk Heap I get your drift
I stand in awe of the MISINFORMATION that is proffered to the viewers here on you tube. Folks who have not the remotest notion of what they are talking about make videos to "instruct" others. God save us all !
I agree with you, for me before and after were the same:-)
no way with an ac machine you will de magnetise if anything use a dc system all magnetisers dc
Maybe someone can enlighten me. Why are there two magnets on a fly wheel with only one coil? At high rpms of even normal operation with so small a distance between them how does it influence the coil?
one pole north and one south. It could be one magnet bent around or two with poles oriented one north out one north in towards center.
will this work with a dc stick welder?
+dan childers I seriously doubted if it would work at all so I tried it. Guess what..
+thra5herxb12s
It didn't work?
@@Drottninggatan2017 it would ONLY work with DC and not very well. AC might 'un' magnetize things nearby.
That's a BIG no no greasing the taper at 6:40 as the tapers should be clean and dry. Proper torque of the flywheel nut will keep the flywheel tight to the crank. Any lube on the tapers and the flywheel will slip, shearing the alignment key.
It didnt improve it all that much but to use the drill to start it shows that it wont start on the rope starter for some reason and it took a while to fire up. Good Theory but I think you need a better way of boosting the magnets.
Good idea
You might explain to people what you are doing. we can't read minds.
Just watch. Simple as that
lol i couldn't help but begin laughing the very moment this video started. I thought oh man his arm is all jacked up hopefully not from a repair. lol. Then, when he uses a screwdriver in between the cooling fins to prevent the flywheel from rotating...well it is a great way to break off a fin or two and throw it out of balance lol. It is all so comical in the first 1 1/2 minutes. Not trying to be a jerk it just caught me off guard and my thought at that point was, maybe he should be watching some instructional videos instead of making them wherein someone with little or no mechanical experience might do irreparable damage to their equipment or themselves and have to wear an ace bandage as well. ;-)
You’re a genius!
This is ridiculous. That looks to me like an ac welder so how the funk can you magnetise those flywheel magnets with ac? Not even running magnetic flux in a circuit through the two magnets.
Not a good idea to put a bar in flywheel fins to lock it while undoing nut. You will break the fins doing that. You need to get a proper flywheel locking tool ie a strap wrench that holds on outside of flywheel. How on earth is welding a piece of steel plate going to re magnetise the magnet, as others have said a load of bollocks. This method will not re magnetise the flywheel. What does picking up nuts prove, the magnets were probably OK in the first place
John Wakefield or else he can put a cotton cord in the cylinder block through spark plug hole. Right?
The current passing thru the iron plate during the current flow creates a magnetic field as all ferrous metals do when current flows. Because the magneto iron is within the invisible magnetic field it WILL magnetize and ferrous metal within the field like the magneto iron. research right hand rule of current flow, one of the most basic rules of electro-magnetic theory.
Zmr ka megnet armecher ka kitna praic h
There's so MANY things wrong here I don't know where to start other than, "Greasing a tapered shaft, really"??
DAH !
dosnt work
the engine rpm is too HIGH!
Did not work at all
The entire video is a compendium of everything you should NOT do to remagnetise magnets. The videos made by folks who have NO idea what the Hell they are demonstrating is rife on you tube. There are, of course, some excellent sites.
Didn’t look like your magnet strength changed any. Your music needs to be turned down though!
funny they never talk, just music.
i hate musicals