Leaking Kenmore Washer - How to replace Shaft Seals.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2018
- This is a twelve-year-old Kenmore top-load washer. Model No. 110.26922502 - Type 111. This is a Heavy Duty - King Size Capacity with a 3 speed motor and 6 settings. The focus of this video is to demonstrate how to change the main Shaft Seals as well as the main Tub Seal.
Two symptoms that surfaced after the seals began leaking were:
1. A small amount of water was present on the floor after every load when the water level was set to medium to high. The volume of leaking water slowly increased over several weeks.
2. The laundry was coming out wet after the spin cycle. Any appreciable loads of laundry was not properly spinning down.
The following products were used in the making of this video:
Replacement Parts Needed:
1. Main Tub Seal: Part #W10814296
2. Lower Shaft Seal: Part #91938
3. Upper Shaft Seal: Part #91939
4. Clutch Assembly: Part #WP8299642
5. Spin Pinion Seal (Transmission) Part #WP356427 -
not used / for reference only.
- iPhone 7 Plus - 128 GB
- iPlanet Bluetooth Selfie Stick
- Blackweb 66" Tripod - Walmart
- Craftsman tools
- 8 in. Three-Jaw Gear Puller - Harbor Freight - Item#69224
---Please know that I am not an authorized appliance repairman and this video demonstrates how I went about changing the shaft seals in my Kenmore Washer.
---ALWAYS PUT SAFETY FIRST. ALWAYS UNPLUG THE APPLIANCE BEFORE OPENING THE CABINET OR DOING ANY TYPE OF SERVICE TO THE UNIT.
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I found this video extremely helpful, I couldn't have made the repairs I did without it, but I do want to toss in a couple of considerations for DIYers or even people experienced at making repairs.
We have an old Whirlpool commercial capacity washer and dryer in our company shop that we've used for 20+ years. I got them off my mother when she passed. They've done yeoman's work of at least 5 loads a week, year in and year out ever since. I've worked on them regularly through the years changing out belts, relays, switches, igniters, pumps, transmissions, hoses, controls, etc. We could easily afford a new one, but I love these old machines, their simplicity, their capacity, and their reliability. Having said this, I think this has been the most challenging repair of all that I've made on it.
Here's why! The drive block was frozen to the drive tube. No amount of WD-4- or Liquid Wrench made any impression. I finally had to place my spanner underneath the nut to get enough leverage with the 3-jaw puller to break it loose. When it finally did, it broke the tube lock on the bottom and the whole assembly came out. It then took concerted effort with a rubber hammer and a wood block to separate the two from the inner tub and even more to get the drive block off the shaft. I have a small press. This is information is not meant to dissuade you, just warn you in advance that this may not go smoothly.
That assembly hasn't ever been out of the machine, even when I put in the new transmission. Truthfully I didn't even know the upper and lower seals were there. The problem with mine, perhaps like yours, is that I let is leak for more than a month before I gave up on it and decided to tear it down and make the repairs. This added some rust and other issues to the springs and getting them loose. I've machined and mechaniced since I was 19 and I rarely give up. I'm almost 69 now and I did eventually get it all out and I did make the repairs. I also broke the water inlet spout which cost me about $45 more dollars.
We've always kept pretty much an entire machine in our storeroom and other than the upper and lower seals and the tub seal, I had a transmission I rebuilt on hand and a brand new spintube assy. I also have access to welders, lathes, flame-spray, end mills, etc. Hence I wasn't afraid to break something if I had too. I've rambled all this time to say that you less well-armed DIYers may need a contingency plan in case things don't go so smoothly or quickly. We're in a small town, but we have the Internet here (Amazon) and we also have an appliance parts store 20 minutes away. If they don't have it they bring it out of LA the next day.
Honestly, when I was 19 I would've beat the Hell out this machine with a ballpein hammer. People would've heard me take the Lord's name in vain repeatedly. Sailors would've blushed. Of course then I'd have had to go out and buy a new washer. Five decades later I have a few more skills, cooler temper, better tools, and easy access to the proper parts if I break something accidentally. I also have the luxury of taking a week to do this repair since I'm the boss and we were smart enough to buy a used spare Kenmore clone set a couple of years back for standby. Almost all the same parts on both.
I find this to be the best video on YT for this repair topic. I hope this comment wasn't too far off track and wish all of you the best of good fortune in the teardown and reassembly of your washer. Keep up the good work William Kasper...
Thank you, my friend for your input. That was some awesome information and extremely satisfying to read. And it is true the older you get the more patience you have to deal with these kinds of repairs. I was fortunate to get my tub separated with a three jaw chuck and I wished I would have demonstrated that in the video. I will say this is an in-depth repair And can be difficult pulling parts apart that have not been apart for decades. I’m glad this video was helpful for you. I almost didn’t do it because I generally do videos about smoking meat and outdoor barbecue recipes and it was a last minute decision to grab the tripod and phone and begin filming this video. On top of the amount of work required to do this type of repair. It’s also very time consuming and Difficult to use the camera and narrate and then edit and do all the required functions for a TH-cam video. I have to laugh because I must’ve been feeling energetically when I decided to do this repair and make a video out of it. Thank you for watching and sharing and hopefully subscribing. Stay safe and thank you again for your story.
-Warm Regards
Great vid! As appliance tech for last 22 years I never seen this direct drive washer leaking because of the upper transmission shaft seal . it is always tub seal or lower delta support seal. And yes this is the most dependable and repair friendly washer ,always worth to repair it and keep it! These days appliances are disposable junk made to last 5 years .
I replaced W10820043 BASKET DRIVE ( shaft w/ seal yesterday for leaking and noisy) Only seemed to leak at high water level
Hi, whats this 'lower delta support seal' you speak of ? Thanks.
@@ArnoTrek I believe he is speaking of the tub support seal.
@@bryanjones4985 I don't understand the difference
Thanks for your comment, I was wondering what a pro tech would say about this machine. I've replaced many parts on my machine (Whirlpool LSR6334LQ0)...Hopefully the trans will hang in there, it seems to leak few drops after a month or so.
Thank you!! If I had not seen this I would have been at a loss since after disassembly it was clear that the leak coming from the center of my 25 year old Kenmore was not the tub seal. If not for this I probably would have retired the machine. I used a socket to seat the upper seal as another comment suggested and things are back to normal. As for removing the basket, I tried a 3 jaw puller but it didn't break it loose. I ended up removing the spanner nut, placing the spanner wrench (tabs facing up) over the shaft, screwing the spanner nut back on partway, then placing a large adjustable wrench above the spanner wrench (resting on the shaft) and using two large c-clamps (one on each side of the shaft) to compress the spanner wrench and adjustable wrench together. This easily broke the basket free. It had never been removed in 25 years.
Hi Michael. Glad to hear this video was helpful. A 25 year old Kenmore; Mine is half that age. They are amazing machines. In 12 years time we fostered over 27 kids and adopted 5. Our Kenmore washer and dryer have ran 24 hours a day for many days at times. At one time I considered getting a second pair washer and dryer. Those days are over thank God! My units have been put though their paces and proved to be amazing machines. Thanks for the input on removing your basket. I can imagine after a quarter of a century, that baby was fused on that shaft! Thank you for sharing your method of (basket) removal. Thanks again for your support. All the Best my friend.
Thank you for this video. I’m right there on my 80’s Kenmore. The ex used to flood the basement with the leak.I got another used one and always wanted to rebuild this one. This washer was in my parents house in the early 80’s. The girl is gone, but my love of this washer isn’t. They sure as hell, don’t make them like they used to. Thanks,William. I’m drinking a cold one in your honor.
Awesome story. So glad this video was helpful. They really don’t make them like they use to!!! Thank you for watching and supporting and leaving the great comment. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Much appreciated my friend. Stay safe and healthy.
😆 Lol
You want to sell it?
My Kenmore washer has Transmission cover seal, Tub seal, lower spin tube seal, upper spin tube seal, and Transmission upper shaft seal.
I'm replacing all, don't wanna go back there in a hurry.
Replacing clutch kit also.
Your video is very helpful.
Great job, I've watched this video about six times now. I think I've got it. Very thorough commentary and step by step visuals. Got my part and patients really, wish me luck. Thanks again for this video, I feel confident I can do the job.
4years later! The best instructional video ever!
Thank you. So glad it was helpful! Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to you and your family.
hey you're right there are not many other videos talking about these shaft seals, I am just starting the job of taking my machine apart and digging in to see where the problems lie. I wouldn't have known to look for the shaft seals and I probably will just replace my shaft seals and my tub seal to hopefully get my machine back to working like its intended. Thanks for stepping up and making this video. cheers bro
Excellent Instructional Video Bill. I like how you didn't have a lot of fluff talk, just got down to business and kept it concise. This is very helpful. I think my tub seal has gone out but I'm going to replace the shaft seals and clutch since I'm in there. My washer is only 28 years old. I've repaired it so many times I can't count. It just keeps trucking along with minor fixes.
Thank you for the awesome feedback. Appreciate you watching and commenting. Yes- these washers are built tough!!! Stay safe!!!
Excellent DIY video, I followed your video and got my leaky washer back in service. Kudos to you !
Deb Good - great to hear. Glad it was helpful. Stay safe.
Bill - Thank you so much for this great detailed, articulate video. Saved me so much time. - especially, your suggestions about using tools like a gear puller
Generally, most of us will have these tools because we've picked up our repair-skills working on cars. All the best Bill.
Robert Giunta - Thank you for the positive feedback. I’m happy to hear this video was helpful. I regret not demonstrating the gear-puller on the video. Got distracted in my own project and failed to illustrate the gear-puller. Thank you for watching. Please feel free to browse my channel and if you’re interested in BBQ and smoking, please subscribe. Happy New Year!!!!
Instablaster.
Great video.. I have a whirlpool top load that runs the same way and the setup is the same, direct drive shaft.. Mine was agitating but not spinning when it reached that cycle. Changed the clutch still didn't spin. Checked the coupler and it was good. With the cabinet off I checked to see if the clutch was spinning when the machine was on, it wasn't. Took off the transmission and manually turned the motor, didn't turn. Decided to go into the transmission. As soon as I set free the plate that covers the transmission, where the oil and gears are, about a cup of water rushed out. So I decided to drain all of the oil that was in the transmission, and half was oil and half water. Cleaned the transmission with kerosine and a clean paint brush, allowed it to dry, topped back up the transmission with 16oz oil and assembled the machine.. Machine is now perking, agitating, spinning and working like brand new.. Before this episode I had to change the tub, upper and lower shaft seals due to a leak. I guess what happened was water leaked into the transmission causing the gears to slip, so if you're changing your seals for a leak, check the oil in the transmission for water as well before you reassemble
Thanks for the video. My older Kenmore was leaking and watching this saved me some extra hassle. I thought it was my tub seal, turns out it was the shaft seal. Proved this by doing a load on LOW and MED LOW water levels and it didn't leak a drop until the rinse cycle (full tub on rinse). On MED water level is where it started leaking while agitating. Thus, shaft seal, not tub seal.
BoHunter2010 Great to hear this helped. Yeah - never as easy as the tub seal. Let me know how your repair panned out. Thanks my friend.
I have a 25 year old Kenmore 90 series that had the original seals in it. It started leaking water earlier this year so I knew I had to replace them. When I took the old seals out they were so rotten that even the metal sleeves on them were rusty. My old drive tube was so rusty and pitted I just ended up replacing that too. Now it runs like new and doesn't leak any water. Thanks for making this video. You've helped a lot of people do this procedure! Also, using a spanner wrench the spanner nut came off surprisingly easy and the basket I was able to get off fairly easy with a three jaw puller.
Hi Robin. Thank you for the awesome comment. I am so happy to hear that my video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching and hopefully subscribing.
Great video. Helped me solve my leaking problem. Lots of gunk removal to get my tub out making this a harder job than it looks. I had to use penetrating oil and let it set for an hour. Pully puller worked great.
Excellent video and thanks for taking the time to do it. The direct drive washing machines are worth saving!
Thank you for your support and kind words. Much appreciated! I hope this video helped others with their leaky washers. There are not many videos on replacing the shaft seals. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. My Kitchen Aid washer is 26 years old. I've already replaced the tub seal and other parts. It recently started leaking again but from these seals. The seals are on order and should be in soon. Your video is going to help a lot.
Thank you for watching and commenting and hopefully subscribing. I’m glad to hear that my video was or will be helpful for your project. Best wishes and stay safe.
Thanks for the demo William. Made my day easier with an internal leak of a 7 year old Kenmore.
Glad to hear it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Excellent vid , I have this EXACT problem with a 20 year old Kenmore , it alwaya leaked for the last couple of years , but now the clutch is slipping , and so I ran it with the body off and YES the water is dripping onto the cluch on spin and wash cycle , the machine only leaks on medium water level , not on low , so Im guessing it is the same problem , I will follow this vid step by step while doing the job , Thank you for this tutorial on replacing the upper and lower shaft seals , I would have replaced the tub seal alone and been in the same place , with a LEAK !! , Thanks a million for this info , and you were right , its the first vid posted to show a detailed breakdown of the seal locations and replacement , you Rock Bill ., God Bless .........
Awesome to hear - I'm glad this video was helpful. Appreciate your kind support. Let us known your outcome following your repair. Yes, running on low with no leaks is a tel-tale sign that your shaft seal is leaking. Best of Luck!!!
Outstanding! Guess how I found out about your video? After 10 years my washer started doing the same and I looked around and by far your video is the best so, I decided to repair the washer myself-Thanks a lot for your great help!
Great to hear. Thank you for watching and hopefully subscribing. Appreciate your amazing comments. Stay safe!!!
Wish I had found this video before I had replaced the tub seal first. Great Video!!! Gotta break it back down for the shaft seals now.
Yes - It would have been great if it were only the tub seal. Such an easy repair. Never that easy my friend!!! At least with my luck. Let us know how your repair went. All the Best-
Thank you for the video. I have a Kenmore 90 series model 110.4786291 (used for 26 years) and all the parts were the same, even the shaft seal at the transmission level that you did not use. I also change the lower transmission seal with kit part W10111745 & 285352.
I prefer using a socket than a screwdriver to instal the seals (9mm for upper shaft seal and 32 mm for lower shaft seal).
I tested the washer without the covers. I had a white piece of paper underneath the transmission to confirm there is no longer any water or oil leak. To do so, you will have to bypass the lid switch with a 14-gage copper wire.
Nice job! Never get rid of that direct drive, it is the best washer one could have. One of the reasons why the main tub seal doesn't go bad often is because unlike the seals for the agitator shaft and the spin tube, that one isn't on any moving parts. Like you said though, if you have it all apart to replace said seals, you may as well replace the main one too. Can't hurt anything. You could also inspect those white wear pads that you mentioned about towards the end, but based on how the machine was when operating, they're probably fine. Glad you got the 6-padded spin clutch!
When removing the spin tube, you can easily get it out by turning the brake cam counterclockwise to release the pads, makes it much easier! Same with reinstalling it too. Smart idea to grease the brake assembly too so the pads move easier. You're probably the first person I've seen do that. Unsure why your tub spring brackets are so rusty. But you can always get replacements if ever needed.
Thank you Sharkie626. I appreciate your support and your input. You’ve made some great points in your comments. The direct drives are awsome machines. All the Best my friend!!!
Thanks for this- I've worked on many things around the home and cars but never a washer, always figured they were way too complicated or just not worth messing with. Very well done and easy to follow
Great video! Direct and to the point without lacking essential knowledge for the repair. Thank you!
Awesome feedback. Much appreciated and glad the video was helpful. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Stay safe!!!
As I'll be in this deep would you mind recommending other parts to replace while I'm there? Thanks again. Love this washer, it's been a good one!
@@jackchappell001 - Really simple. I would replace the tub seal (very inexpensive) and the clutch (buy the clutch kit) and the motor coupler (round rubber pice with 3 holes used to connect the motor shaft to the transmission). That should be all you’ll need in addition to the shaft seals of course.
I agree, this is a very well built washer!!!! Keep it running as long as you can. Stay safe!!!
I haven't started to take mine apart yet. At first I suspected the tub gasket, which looked pretty indepth to replace, and now I'm watching your great video. I have to give you top marks for giving the part numbers for the gaskets as well. Don't see that often. Thanks.
Also, with my luck I'd go through this 17 day job(lol), put it all back together and the forking thing will still be leaking, if not more, because I pinched this or didn't knock this in evenly.
Glad it helped. Thank you so much for the kind comment.
Just got done replacing my clutch plate. Tub wouldn't spin and it was leaking. Figured I would be changing the tub gasket, didn't think about the shaft seals! This is going to save me a lot of time! I would have taken everything apart, put it back together and probably would have had the same problem. I have a 23 year old Kenmore Series 90 washer. I want to keep it for another 23 years! Thanks for a great video!
As long as the motor holds out your in good shape. The cost to replace the motor would be too much to keep the old girl going! They are good quality machines that’s for sure. Thank you for watching and supporting my channel. Stay safe and healthy!!!
@@SmokinwithKasket Used motors on ebay are often reasonably priced. Use cross reference part numbers from an appliance site.
AWESOME VIDEO. Thanks so much. You are correct, there are tons of videos regarding the clutch, the pump, etc. This is the only video on this subject and it is great! Dude, you tore that machine UP! Literally. I learned a lot. 👍
Wow! Thank you for the awesome comments. I’m really happy to hear this video was helpful for you. Please subscribe if you haven’t already - stay safe and healthy.
Thank you sir. The best video I’ve seen on this subject. I watched 7 videos but non as detailed as yours.
Pablo's Buick Garage - Thank you for your positive support. Hope the video helped with your situation.
Use a socket or piece of PVC the size of your seal. Helps knock them in flush without risking puncture.
Excellent advise. Thank you.
Wow! thank you for this, I have a 20 year old washer that the motor still sounds good and is leaking water too. I am going to have to try to do this procedure on it. you did a very good job in explaining each step. Thanks again.
Thank you. I always wonder if I failed to explain myself when doing these types of videos. Thank you for the feedback. Hope this helped your situation. All the Best-
Check out my channel for Dryer repairs 👍
@@carmac1652 - Nice channel. You definitely deserve way more views and subscribers. Keep the great videos coming and your numbers will rise!!! I am amazed by the growth of my channel. All the Best-
Man that was a tremendous amount of work but you probably felt so proud of it knowing that you fixed the problem. I like the simplest ones like washer n drier lid switches lol
Jose Landaverry - Well put my friend. I’ve been down similar roads with other machines including this one, so I was in familiar territory. My luck= Never simple like a lid switch or loose wire. NEVER!!! Lol. Thanks for supporting my channel. Best-
Brother, my washing machine is exactly the same and that was my problem, your video was what I needed to solve my problem, thanks for your contribution.
Glad to hear this video was helpful. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Stay safe and healthy!!!!
This was extremely helpful and I appreciate the fact that you didn’t sit there and ramble on about silly stuff that didn’t make a difference about fixing the washing machine I did do a little bit different online I used a two finger wheel puller or gear puller against the backside of the nut upside down so I had more of a flat surface and it pulled it straight out on the inside drum thanks for the video it was extremely helpful I’m going to keep using it while I replay as I’m putting it back together to make sure I don’t forget anything awesome I’ll be watching your next videos thanks again
Mark.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I’m glad to hear that my style of video was helpful. Sometimes I’m not sure if I’m making myself clear but thank you for the awesome comment. Stay safe and happy new year!
Thanks for the quick response William your answer put my concerns at ease , it ‘s not a hard washer to work on if your mechanical skilled thanks again .
Al Ward - Very true regarding the difficulty level. Thank you for watching my vids.
I happened across your video after doing a similar repair on my washer a few days ago. One thing I don't see in the video, nor in the comments, is that there are actually two of each of each of these seals. They are stacked on top of each other. I replaced the basket drive with the brake on it (and a good thing since mine was very rusty and didn't want to come out of the base) and it came with the seals already in it but the base housing with the larger seal actually had a second one underneath the first. I only ordered one so I only replaced one but to do the job right you should replace both. The basket drive with the brake also has two of those smaller seals stacked on top of each other. You can verify this with the parts diagram on sears parts direct website.
Great video! Thanks for your hard work and advice! We have the same washer as you have kenmore elite and our leak ended up being the hose where the water fills the washer up on top right at the hose conection but your info is so spot on for more serious stuff ! Thsnks again!
You are very lucky! My repairs are never simple. Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate your kind words. Stay safe!
DUDE!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE DIRECTIONS. JUST TAKES PATIENCE BUT WORTH THE MAINTENANCE!! ITS AN OLDIE BUT GOODIE!! AGAIN THANK YOU!!
Glad I could help! Thank you for watching.
This is why I love youtube. The clutch is shot on my 15 year old Roper and I was about to place an order. Then I come across your video and you're the only one that mentions these seals. I was wondering why my clutch housing was rusty. It's because water has been seeping in. Thanks again for sharing!
Thank you for watching and commenting. Glad the video was helpful. Best Wishes.
@@SmokinwithKasket Tore into mine this morning and thankfully I didn't even need a puller. One question though. There's another seal inside the shaft down at the base, just above where the brake assembly fits into. It's more of a normal seal like you'd find on a car. Any reason you didn't bother with that one?
@@89Mirageman - Because normally it’s the top seal that gives out and I didn’t want to disturb the bottom seal if I didn’t have to so I just replace the top one and everything worked out fine.
My philosophy is if it works don’t fix it. However since you’ve got the machine all tore down if you feel comfortable removing that bottom seal which is kind of hard to get at go ahead and give it a shot. Thanks for watching and commenting and I hope the video is helpful for you!
Thanks so much for your video ! I will repair my washer tomorrow,and I hope at the end no leftovers parts.
Left over parts always happens. The older appliances are overbuilt. Maybe that is why they last so much longer. You'll do just fine. Stay safe!
Excellent video - your detailed descriptions and accompanying video was great!
Thank you for watching and commenting. I hope the video was helpful. Have a great day!!!
Great video. One thing to check are the bearings in the tub support tube. If those bearings are worn, it is likely the spin tube shaft is scored and you'll need to replace those parts or the new seals will go bad in a short period of time. Your spin tube appeared fine though.
Awesome suggestion. Thank you. I appreciate you watching and sharing.
Thank you. I was going through the process of elimination to stop my washer from leaking and I didn't think about the seals. Parts are on order. Thank you.
futurehunter - sorry it’s was the seals. Never the easy tub seal!!! Good luck, take your time. It’ll work out great. Thank you for watching.
@@SmokinwithKasket ,, My Whirlpool is dripping when in motion only. Is it the shaft seal ? Shouldn't the tube seal leak even when the machine is off once water is in the machine ?
Try filling the water level to a low setting. Run it. If no leak then raise the level higher. I still suspect the seals. Mine leaked only on motion. If no leak on low water level but a leak on high water level that’s fir sure your seals!
@@SmokinwithKasket ,, Once it is running it leaks.... Whether low or high on water level. The thing is it does not leak if I manually filled it .
Thanks again for responding. Blessings
Had a leak in mine and the clutch slipping. Playing around I tried a small load and the leak stopped. Guessed a seal or hose was the problem. Got a seal for the tub bottom but got to thinking that it would still leak on a small load if that was the problem. Haven't fixed it yet and think the shaft seals are the issue. Random no spin issues are now a problem even after drying out and cleaning the clutch. Suspect a wiring or timer control dial may also be a problem. Determined to fix it as I don't like any of the new machines available today. Thanks much for this informative video.
Great video. Just what I needed for my Roper. I went ahead and got a new washer today. What prices on these things? My Roper was 10 and half years old, so I went ahead after just fixing it from not spinning, and then seeing it was leaking in the center. Then tearing it apart and seeing it was the top seal leaking, that I decided to get a new washer. Now after seeing your video, I will now order those parts and fix my old washer.
Outstanging video, Sir! You are a Gentlemen & a Scholar! My hat is off to you.
AWESOME comment. Thank you. Hope the video was helpful. Stay safe!!!
Great explanation. I have the same problem with my Whirlpool washer and will fix it soon. Thanks a lot for the help.
Thank you for watching. Stay safe!!!
Really good video , I like that you didn’t include disassembly and went for the repair, Thanks
I included the major disassembly. I figure if individuals don’t know how to gain access to the motor and transmission and disconnect the water pump and all the simple steps they really shouldn’t be going for replacing the seals. Thanks for watching I appreciate your support. Stay safe my friend.
Thank you. Im new to repairing washing machines and this was very helpful.
Great to hear. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Stay safe.
Thanks for the great video. You can use a socket of the proper diamater to tap in those shaft seals. When installing the transmishion wrap the splines with electrical tape to prevent them from damaging the inner seal.
Any idea what size sockets? I've cracked the upper shaft seal three times trying to knock them in
@@jerryblack21 Sory, can't remember.
This was one of the most useful video I seen in awhile, thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching.
im a disabled vet that is on soc.sec.and i needed a way to make some extra money i was picking scrap metal doung hauling ppl suff to the dump anything to keep food on the table about 10 years sgo i ran an ad on craigslist saying any body that will show me the basics of washer and dryer repair for everydsy the show me ill donate a day of my time to do whatever they need done whether cutiing there grass or dating there daughter any ways 10 years later im pushing them out of my garage and beating used appliance stores buy 50 % now this video is one of the best ive seen ive removed many tubs when i have one thats stuck i spray a soapy cleaner around the top of the drive block let it sit a few min. then ill take the end of my spanner wrench set it on top of the drive block and give the other end a good solid wack ..comes free everytime
Thanks for sharing. I found that hammering a 3/4" socket on that upper seal will drive it in fairly easily.
great vid! THx!
Would using a socket to seat the upper and lower seals been any easier?
Thx again
The right man for this channel. Excellent. .. I'm giving you an A. Thanks brother.
What a generous comment. Thank you very much!!! Hope your staying safe and healthy during these trying times. All the Best my friend!
Thanks for the video on the shaft seals. Very helpful. I have the same issue but I did also open up the transmission and found water in the oil. I would suspect that any machine with leaky shaft seals could end up with water in the transmission.
I would agree. Water will eventually find its way through the top of the transmission.
thanks much for this video...really helped me pinpoint my washer leak, with an easy fix!!!
pnisakau Great to hear this helped. Thanks.
The best instructions I've seen on this. Unfortunately for me, i think I must change the transmission shaft seal.
Awesome. Thank you.
Very informative. The best yet!
Thank you for the awesome comment. Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Warmly…
Enjoyed very much. One of the best organized with good video.
Thank you for the positive feedback. Much appreciated. Hope the video helped your situation.
This is a great video. I appreciate you posting it.
Great job. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. Hope it was helpful for you. Best-
Thanks for this video - great!- it’s funny we have an old kenmore washer that we love- it’s 18-19 years old and now seems to need a drum seal / bearing replacement but having problems finding parts- any idea where I could buy them?
Good video and I appreciate the information. Did I miss it where you added any oil or grease back into the transmission case before reassembly? Mine had slung a good amount out in the bottom, which is what ultimately caused the clutch to slip. I'm just wondering what I need to stick back in there before reassembly. Any ideas?
Great video! Very helpful. I'm working on my 15 year old Kenmore washer which stopped spinning and I went through living Hell trying to remove the spanner nut, drive block and the brake assembly because of all the built up gunk. I haven't found the cause of the "no spin" problem as yet but I'm thinking the brake tube locked up inside the drum as I had to knock the top of the transmission shaft to get it off but as it's totally disassembled, I'm going to change all the seals, clutch, braking system and do a overhaul of the transmission, all new parts. I couldn't find a video dealing with the seals until I came across yours. Thanks!! One other thing that you can maybe advise me on.....the inside of the tube of the tub and some parts of the outside under the agitator are showing a LOT of corrosion. Is it wise to try to use a rust remover and some scraping to get rid of some of the corrosion then give the cleaned tub a coat of primer and appliance white or should I just scrap the project and dump the washer? The drive block was actually seized into the top of the tub and I had to knock it down the tub shaft with a large socket and an extension because of the amount of corrosion inside. What do you think? Yea or nay?
My deepest apologies for not getting back with you sooner. With that amount of corrosion that you’re describing, I would recommend buying a new machine. As soon as you repair this one or if you’re able to repair this one it sounds like you’ll have trouble with other components including the frame. Or see if you can purchase the tube assembly that might be another option. Honestly I’m getting older and growing tired of working on things over and over and over. That’s why I suggest it might be time to purchase new. Since your this far into it though go ahead and proceed the repair but if you find yourself tearing this thing down more than once every two years or so I would dump it.
Brilliantly made repair video! Good pace, all the technical points covered, all part #'s called out!
QUESTION: Where to get that 1/16" socket or nut driver for the fill shut off level adjustment? I'm about to make a tool using an Alan capscrew that uses the 1/16" Alan wrench.
Thank you for the awesome comment and thank you for watching and subscribing. I think that tool that you’re making for the fill shut off level adjustment will work perfect. Check Amazon or a appliance supply company for that tool. Thank you again, Happy New Year and stay safe.
Very well done video!
The Puller worked easily to pull the inner drum and spanner nut. Thanks for the tip.
Great to hear. Glad to have helped.
Thanks for posting this video. Most helpful.
Great to hear it was helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting. Stay safe!!!
Great job! You did great explaination.
Thank you. Appreciate the positive comment. I hope this video was helpful. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. All the Best!!!
Thank you for posting this video i was able to fix my washer from your information....god bless
Great to hear. I'm glad this video was helpful. Stay safe and healthy.
A+ on that vid and how it was all handled. It seemed shorter than it was because it was hustled along and there was no extra dwelling and repeating like some irritating vids.
Shakdi Dagalimal - Wow what a fabulous compliment. So you’re saying you didn’t look at your watch during the whole movie. Lol. Thank you so much, I’m glad the video was helpful and not boring and dragging. I do work hard at editing to try to keep all my videos entertaining, short and to the point as there’s nothing worse then dragging on and on. Thank you for watching. Stay safe and healthy!!! All the Best-
Excellent instructional video. Clear, concise and detailed. Thank you for making this video it was very helpful. My question is how do you resolve the issue of the drive block to tight on the drive tube? Both parts are brand new. I don't think you should force block to seat in the tube. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Hi Khan. Thank you for the awesome review. Much appreciated and I’m glad the video was helpful. To answer your question about the drive block, if I’m understanding correctly, just tighten the spanner nut down nice and firm. This will force both parts to seat correctly and securely, especially if they are new. Hope this helped. Stay safe and healthy. All the Best-
@@SmokinwithKasket Most instructional video regarding this type of repair shows that the drive block just simply sliding into the drive tube. In my case , the block doesn't seem to fit into the new drive tube. Even though they are the correct parts. I've tried sanding the inside wall of the block just to remove a little of material but to no avail. So I ended up polishing and using the old drive block with the new drive tube. Thank you for your response.
Sorry to hear you had such problems. Things never seems to go easy. Glad you figured out a solution. I can’t figure why the two parts wouldn’t seat correctly. Hopefully someone knowledgeable with this specific issue will see this post and offer an explanation. Best Wishes.
@@SmokinwithKasket After market item? I try to buy OEM when possible - it is definitely worth it to repair the washer right the first time around.
@@khantutan825 I turned the old drive block upside down and pounded on it to drift the new block into place.
Awesome job!
Thanks for the upload. I think i need a shaft seal. Can i get some help if i do mine?
💯 Thanks for the video. 🤙 Good information in it. Step by step. 🔥 Got a project like this coming up.
thanks for this instructions ,they helped me to disassemble and assemble it back putting all the springs in the way they should be ,definitively well explained and detailed ,as we need all ..........
Awesome. I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful. Thank you for your support my friend.
Great video, my tub makes a lot of noise as it spins up then smooths out a little. Sound is louder if heavier load like jeans. Are there upper and lower tub bearings for the shaft or is this noise from a dirty clutch or both. The seals will be changed either way.
Thanks for the vid.
Well done
Thanks for the great video, it's very helpful.
But my 25 year old Kenmore is leaking. I'll check it out, but if it's not a simple problem like the drain pump, then I'll
just buy a new washer. Too much work even for a mechanical person like me. I have also read that newer machines are more energy efficient.
Thank you for the video. However Im concerned that wedging out the old seals with a hammer and screwdriver could score/deform the tube bodies so that you run the risk of them not seating properly and continuing to leak even after you install new seals.
Is there a safer way to remove the seals that doesn't risk marring the metal tubes?
Great point. If anyone knows of a better way that would be great to hear. I didn’t have any issues with my repair. There’s a better chance of damaging the new seal during installation. It may be better to use a socket placed over the seal to tap it down into the tube.
Cool video. Very well demonstrated and explained. I have an 80 series Kenmore washer that could certainly be repaired and or used for parts it does not leak, it simply doesn't spin anymore. Probably a clutch and/or couplers. The wife wants a new washer but I hate to just let someone scrap it. Any ideas about how to find someone for it?
Prolly local sites like Facebook marketplace. If the motor is good someone will fix it. Check bulletin board at local appliance parts stores maybe.
Thanks for the information. Mine is unfortunately from 2007 so the basket (brake) and transmission/shaft is coming in one piece. I don't want to hit the pry bar too hard but might need to. I put some pb blaster on the top seal so hopefully it goes all of the way down and lubricates the shaft.
EDIT: Finally got that sucker off. I had to use a pry-bar to get it off. It had a lot of soap build-up!
That was probably a smart move. Glad the video was helpful.
Thank you for the sharing of your knowledge, awesome
Thank you for watching and subscribing. Much appreciated! Stay safe.
Very Helpful for me thanks Will.
Glad to hear that. Hopefully your problem is solved. All the Best.
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!
Thank you for watching. Hope it was helpful. Best-
Very nice video right to the point!
Thank you
Thank you. Appreciate your support.
Thank you for this video. It help me learn where to fix the leak. I have a question that I hope you don't mind answering because it would cost some money to fix it. I have 2006 whirlpool direct drive just like yours. Well, I never tried or seen how new HE washing machines they now sell in Lowes or Home Depot, but not sure if I should get a new one because I don't know if it clean the clothes as good as the old one. Please let me know. Thanks.
Thsnk you got a good look at what needs to be done.
Awesome!!! Glad it was helpful.
Aha! I need to do this even if I change my clutch. This is the real problem. Thanks for this video!
Would be good idea to change the clutch. It’s cheap and readily available. Like the good old days - changing the spark plugs and wires but not the cap & rotor.
@@SmokinwithKasket I just did. But I should change the gaskets as well. The motor was greasy and looks like there are soapy leaks.
Excellent information can you tell me what the plastic press in plugs with 2” brass pins in side just above the gear housing are they important or just for shipping I changed the pump and moving the washer some fell out thanks .
Hi Al. Great question. Those brass pins are for shipping purposes from the manufacturer. They fit into chassis holes to secure the mechanism from moving freely on those white plastic pads. They prevent damage to the internal chassis during shipping. When the washer arrives the pins are easily pulled by the retailer where they fall into plastic cups which prevent losing them on the floor which could cause a hazard. Choking hazard, slipping hazard, etc.
Thanks for watching and hope the video was helpful. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. I appreciate your support. All the Best-
@@SmokinwithKasket First off thanks so much for this video especially the advice on using a 3 prong puller to break the drum loose (mine was over 20 years). I also wondered about those pins in the plastic holder but I can't see how are those pins are easily pulled by the retailer and by pulled I assume you mean the cotter pins that hold them in place.
Thank you so much, I will put my tools together and fix the washer machine, excellent video, gracias.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
very informative and straight forward...
Thank you. Appreciate the positive comment. Hope this information helped!!!
Excelente video, gran trabajo!
Thank you for the kind comment. Appreciate you watching and subscribing. Stay safe and healthy!!!
Any idea where to find the part # for one of the upper transmission seals? There's some oily residue so I'd like to replace them while I'm in there. The pinion gear in the trans that also has the 4 fingers that the clutch rides on. There's a small seal inside of the gear that seals against the main shaft. I removed it but there are no numbers anywhere. Guess I could take it to the local shop and have them match it up. But you seem super knowledgeable about these things so I figured you might have a break down parts list or something. Thanks
Very good vid,your clutch lining has too much friction pads, is that a defect?.In Trinidad we get linings with three pads only.
It has to be different manufacturers. The original part had three pads if I remember correctly. All additional clutch units I’ve purchased had numerous friction pads like this. They work great!!!! Thank you fir watching.
Thanks for doing this video. I know it will help a lot of people. Good Job!
Would you put grease on the Tub Seal? Thanks again for the video.
Hi Ron. Thanks for your support. I really do hope this video will help others. I don't think its necessary to put lube on the tub seal but as long as you use a lubricant that will not deteriorate rubber (valve grease, etc.) I don't see an issue with applying some to the seal.
Remember these parts are exposed to laundry soap which dissolves grease and contaminates clothes. Certainly no anti seize on the basket block.
Awesome video, my friend, this is the same for coin op whirlpools. 👍
Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate your positive support. Stay safe.
My tub action seems okay and I recently removed the tub and did a complete tub cleaning, however I noticed what looks like oil residue on the floor under the unit. Does the transmission have an oil seal?
Awesome, Thank you!