I found this video extremely helpful, I couldn't have made the repairs I did without it, but I do want to toss in a couple of considerations for DIYers or even people experienced at making repairs. We have an old Whirlpool commercial capacity washer and dryer in our company shop that we've used for 20+ years. I got them off my mother when she passed. They've done yeoman's work of at least 5 loads a week, year in and year out ever since. I've worked on them regularly through the years changing out belts, relays, switches, igniters, pumps, transmissions, hoses, controls, etc. We could easily afford a new one, but I love these old machines, their simplicity, their capacity, and their reliability. Having said this, I think this has been the most challenging repair of all that I've made on it. Here's why! The drive block was frozen to the drive tube. No amount of WD-4- or Liquid Wrench made any impression. I finally had to place my spanner underneath the nut to get enough leverage with the 3-jaw puller to break it loose. When it finally did, it broke the tube lock on the bottom and the whole assembly came out. It then took concerted effort with a rubber hammer and a wood block to separate the two from the inner tub and even more to get the drive block off the shaft. I have a small press. This is information is not meant to dissuade you, just warn you in advance that this may not go smoothly. That assembly hasn't ever been out of the machine, even when I put in the new transmission. Truthfully I didn't even know the upper and lower seals were there. The problem with mine, perhaps like yours, is that I let is leak for more than a month before I gave up on it and decided to tear it down and make the repairs. This added some rust and other issues to the springs and getting them loose. I've machined and mechaniced since I was 19 and I rarely give up. I'm almost 69 now and I did eventually get it all out and I did make the repairs. I also broke the water inlet spout which cost me about $45 more dollars. We've always kept pretty much an entire machine in our storeroom and other than the upper and lower seals and the tub seal, I had a transmission I rebuilt on hand and a brand new spintube assy. I also have access to welders, lathes, flame-spray, end mills, etc. Hence I wasn't afraid to break something if I had too. I've rambled all this time to say that you less well-armed DIYers may need a contingency plan in case things don't go so smoothly or quickly. We're in a small town, but we have the Internet here (Amazon) and we also have an appliance parts store 20 minutes away. If they don't have it they bring it out of LA the next day. Honestly, when I was 19 I would've beat the Hell out this machine with a ballpein hammer. People would've heard me take the Lord's name in vain repeatedly. Sailors would've blushed. Of course then I'd have had to go out and buy a new washer. Five decades later I have a few more skills, cooler temper, better tools, and easy access to the proper parts if I break something accidentally. I also have the luxury of taking a week to do this repair since I'm the boss and we were smart enough to buy a used spare Kenmore clone set a couple of years back for standby. Almost all the same parts on both. I find this to be the best video on YT for this repair topic. I hope this comment wasn't too far off track and wish all of you the best of good fortune in the teardown and reassembly of your washer. Keep up the good work William Kasper...
Thank you, my friend for your input. That was some awesome information and extremely satisfying to read. And it is true the older you get the more patience you have to deal with these kinds of repairs. I was fortunate to get my tub separated with a three jaw chuck and I wished I would have demonstrated that in the video. I will say this is an in-depth repair And can be difficult pulling parts apart that have not been apart for decades. I’m glad this video was helpful for you. I almost didn’t do it because I generally do videos about smoking meat and outdoor barbecue recipes and it was a last minute decision to grab the tripod and phone and begin filming this video. On top of the amount of work required to do this type of repair. It’s also very time consuming and Difficult to use the camera and narrate and then edit and do all the required functions for a TH-cam video. I have to laugh because I must’ve been feeling energetically when I decided to do this repair and make a video out of it. Thank you for watching and sharing and hopefully subscribing. Stay safe and thank you again for your story. -Warm Regards
Great vid! As appliance tech for last 22 years I never seen this direct drive washer leaking because of the upper transmission shaft seal . it is always tub seal or lower delta support seal. And yes this is the most dependable and repair friendly washer ,always worth to repair it and keep it! These days appliances are disposable junk made to last 5 years .
Thanks for your comment, I was wondering what a pro tech would say about this machine. I've replaced many parts on my machine (Whirlpool LSR6334LQ0)...Hopefully the trans will hang in there, it seems to leak few drops after a month or so.
Thank you so much for this. Been repairing my 30+ year old whirlpool and nobody talks about these exact seals. I dont know how long it wouldve taken me to get finished without your help. Im pretty sure the tip about using the puller for the basket saved my sanity. Ill def check out your other content.
It looks like to me is there’s corrosion and pitting on the shaft were to seal run on. I would have replaced the shaft just in case. I’m a retired maintenance machinist and worked on a lot of high pressure pumps and I would machine a replace the shaft. Just my two cents
Great video and super helpful. One thing to note for anyone attempting this repair- the lower shaft seal has a metal ring embedded in the rubber that you have to mangle to get it out of the tube. Don't put the screwdriver in too deep or it won't grab. I thought I was messing up the tube until I got the whole thing out.
Excellent Instructional Video Bill. I like how you didn't have a lot of fluff talk, just got down to business and kept it concise. This is very helpful. I think my tub seal has gone out but I'm going to replace the shaft seals and clutch since I'm in there. My washer is only 28 years old. I've repaired it so many times I can't count. It just keeps trucking along with minor fixes.
Thank you for this video. I’m right there on my 80’s Kenmore. The ex used to flood the basement with the leak.I got another used one and always wanted to rebuild this one. This washer was in my parents house in the early 80’s. The girl is gone, but my love of this washer isn’t. They sure as hell, don’t make them like they used to. Thanks,William. I’m drinking a cold one in your honor.
Awesome story. So glad this video was helpful. They really don’t make them like they use to!!! Thank you for watching and supporting and leaving the great comment. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Much appreciated my friend. Stay safe and healthy.
Thank you!! If I had not seen this I would have been at a loss since after disassembly it was clear that the leak coming from the center of my 25 year old Kenmore was not the tub seal. If not for this I probably would have retired the machine. I used a socket to seat the upper seal as another comment suggested and things are back to normal. As for removing the basket, I tried a 3 jaw puller but it didn't break it loose. I ended up removing the spanner nut, placing the spanner wrench (tabs facing up) over the shaft, screwing the spanner nut back on partway, then placing a large adjustable wrench above the spanner wrench (resting on the shaft) and using two large c-clamps (one on each side of the shaft) to compress the spanner wrench and adjustable wrench together. This easily broke the basket free. It had never been removed in 25 years.
Hi Michael. Glad to hear this video was helpful. A 25 year old Kenmore; Mine is half that age. They are amazing machines. In 12 years time we fostered over 27 kids and adopted 5. Our Kenmore washer and dryer have ran 24 hours a day for many days at times. At one time I considered getting a second pair washer and dryer. Those days are over thank God! My units have been put though their paces and proved to be amazing machines. Thanks for the input on removing your basket. I can imagine after a quarter of a century, that baby was fused on that shaft! Thank you for sharing your method of (basket) removal. Thanks again for your support. All the Best my friend.
Thank you for the video. I have a Kenmore 90 series model 110.4786291 (used for 26 years) and all the parts were the same, even the shaft seal at the transmission level that you did not use. I also change the lower transmission seal with kit part W10111745 & 285352. I prefer using a socket than a screwdriver to instal the seals (9mm for upper shaft seal and 32 mm for lower shaft seal). I tested the washer without the covers. I had a white piece of paper underneath the transmission to confirm there is no longer any water or oil leak. To do so, you will have to bypass the lid switch with a 14-gage copper wire.
My Kenmore washer has Transmission cover seal, Tub seal, lower spin tube seal, upper spin tube seal, and Transmission upper shaft seal. I'm replacing all, don't wanna go back there in a hurry. Replacing clutch kit also. Your video is very helpful.
hey you're right there are not many other videos talking about these shaft seals, I am just starting the job of taking my machine apart and digging in to see where the problems lie. I wouldn't have known to look for the shaft seals and I probably will just replace my shaft seals and my tub seal to hopefully get my machine back to working like its intended. Thanks for stepping up and making this video. cheers bro
I have a 25 year old Kenmore 90 series that had the original seals in it. It started leaking water earlier this year so I knew I had to replace them. When I took the old seals out they were so rotten that even the metal sleeves on them were rusty. My old drive tube was so rusty and pitted I just ended up replacing that too. Now it runs like new and doesn't leak any water. Thanks for making this video. You've helped a lot of people do this procedure! Also, using a spanner wrench the spanner nut came off surprisingly easy and the basket I was able to get off fairly easy with a three jaw puller.
Hi Robin. Thank you for the awesome comment. I am so happy to hear that my video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching and hopefully subscribing.
Great video.. I have a whirlpool top load that runs the same way and the setup is the same, direct drive shaft.. Mine was agitating but not spinning when it reached that cycle. Changed the clutch still didn't spin. Checked the coupler and it was good. With the cabinet off I checked to see if the clutch was spinning when the machine was on, it wasn't. Took off the transmission and manually turned the motor, didn't turn. Decided to go into the transmission. As soon as I set free the plate that covers the transmission, where the oil and gears are, about a cup of water rushed out. So I decided to drain all of the oil that was in the transmission, and half was oil and half water. Cleaned the transmission with kerosine and a clean paint brush, allowed it to dry, topped back up the transmission with 16oz oil and assembled the machine.. Machine is now perking, agitating, spinning and working like brand new.. Before this episode I had to change the tub, upper and lower shaft seals due to a leak. I guess what happened was water leaked into the transmission causing the gears to slip, so if you're changing your seals for a leak, check the oil in the transmission for water as well before you reassemble
Outstanding! Guess how I found out about your video? After 10 years my washer started doing the same and I looked around and by far your video is the best so, I decided to repair the washer myself-Thanks a lot for your great help!
This is why I love youtube. The clutch is shot on my 15 year old Roper and I was about to place an order. Then I come across your video and you're the only one that mentions these seals. I was wondering why my clutch housing was rusty. It's because water has been seeping in. Thanks again for sharing!
@@SmokinwithKasket Tore into mine this morning and thankfully I didn't even need a puller. One question though. There's another seal inside the shaft down at the base, just above where the brake assembly fits into. It's more of a normal seal like you'd find on a car. Any reason you didn't bother with that one?
@@89Mirageman - Because normally it’s the top seal that gives out and I didn’t want to disturb the bottom seal if I didn’t have to so I just replace the top one and everything worked out fine.
My philosophy is if it works don’t fix it. However since you’ve got the machine all tore down if you feel comfortable removing that bottom seal which is kind of hard to get at go ahead and give it a shot. Thanks for watching and commenting and I hope the video is helpful for you!
@@jackchappell001 - Really simple. I would replace the tub seal (very inexpensive) and the clutch (buy the clutch kit) and the motor coupler (round rubber pice with 3 holes used to connect the motor shaft to the transmission). That should be all you’ll need in addition to the shaft seals of course. I agree, this is a very well built washer!!!! Keep it running as long as you can. Stay safe!!!
This was extremely helpful and I appreciate the fact that you didn’t sit there and ramble on about silly stuff that didn’t make a difference about fixing the washing machine I did do a little bit different online I used a two finger wheel puller or gear puller against the backside of the nut upside down so I had more of a flat surface and it pulled it straight out on the inside drum thanks for the video it was extremely helpful I’m going to keep using it while I replay as I’m putting it back together to make sure I don’t forget anything awesome I’ll be watching your next videos thanks again Mark.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I’m glad to hear that my style of video was helpful. Sometimes I’m not sure if I’m making myself clear but thank you for the awesome comment. Stay safe and happy new year!
Great job, I've watched this video about six times now. I think I've got it. Very thorough commentary and step by step visuals. Got my part and patients really, wish me luck. Thanks again for this video, I feel confident I can do the job.
Thanks for the video. My Kitchen Aid washer is 26 years old. I've already replaced the tub seal and other parts. It recently started leaking again but from these seals. The seals are on order and should be in soon. Your video is going to help a lot.
Thank you for watching and commenting and hopefully subscribing. I’m glad to hear that my video was or will be helpful for your project. Best wishes and stay safe.
I haven't started to take mine apart yet. At first I suspected the tub gasket, which looked pretty indepth to replace, and now I'm watching your great video. I have to give you top marks for giving the part numbers for the gaskets as well. Don't see that often. Thanks.
Also, with my luck I'd go through this 17 day job(lol), put it all back together and the forking thing will still be leaking, if not more, because I pinched this or didn't knock this in evenly.
Thanks for the video. My older Kenmore was leaking and watching this saved me some extra hassle. I thought it was my tub seal, turns out it was the shaft seal. Proved this by doing a load on LOW and MED LOW water levels and it didn't leak a drop until the rinse cycle (full tub on rinse). On MED water level is where it started leaking while agitating. Thus, shaft seal, not tub seal.
Thanks for this- I've worked on many things around the home and cars but never a washer, always figured they were way too complicated or just not worth messing with. Very well done and easy to follow
Thank you for your support and kind words. Much appreciated! I hope this video helped others with their leaky washers. There are not many videos on replacing the shaft seals. Thanks again.
Bill - Thank you so much for this great detailed, articulate video. Saved me so much time. - especially, your suggestions about using tools like a gear puller Generally, most of us will have these tools because we've picked up our repair-skills working on cars. All the best Bill.
Robert Giunta - Thank you for the positive feedback. I’m happy to hear this video was helpful. I regret not demonstrating the gear-puller on the video. Got distracted in my own project and failed to illustrate the gear-puller. Thank you for watching. Please feel free to browse my channel and if you’re interested in BBQ and smoking, please subscribe. Happy New Year!!!!
im a disabled vet that is on soc.sec.and i needed a way to make some extra money i was picking scrap metal doung hauling ppl suff to the dump anything to keep food on the table about 10 years sgo i ran an ad on craigslist saying any body that will show me the basics of washer and dryer repair for everydsy the show me ill donate a day of my time to do whatever they need done whether cutiing there grass or dating there daughter any ways 10 years later im pushing them out of my garage and beating used appliance stores buy 50 % now this video is one of the best ive seen ive removed many tubs when i have one thats stuck i spray a soapy cleaner around the top of the drive block let it sit a few min. then ill take the end of my spanner wrench set it on top of the drive block and give the other end a good solid wack ..comes free everytime
AWESOME VIDEO. Thanks so much. You are correct, there are tons of videos regarding the clutch, the pump, etc. This is the only video on this subject and it is great! Dude, you tore that machine UP! Literally. I learned a lot. 👍
Wow! Thank you for the awesome comments. I’m really happy to hear this video was helpful for you. Please subscribe if you haven’t already - stay safe and healthy.
Yes - It would have been great if it were only the tub seal. Such an easy repair. Never that easy my friend!!! At least with my luck. Let us know how your repair went. All the Best-
Excellent vid , I have this EXACT problem with a 20 year old Kenmore , it alwaya leaked for the last couple of years , but now the clutch is slipping , and so I ran it with the body off and YES the water is dripping onto the cluch on spin and wash cycle , the machine only leaks on medium water level , not on low , so Im guessing it is the same problem , I will follow this vid step by step while doing the job , Thank you for this tutorial on replacing the upper and lower shaft seals , I would have replaced the tub seal alone and been in the same place , with a LEAK !! , Thanks a million for this info , and you were right , its the first vid posted to show a detailed breakdown of the seal locations and replacement , you Rock Bill ., God Bless .........
Awesome to hear - I'm glad this video was helpful. Appreciate your kind support. Let us known your outcome following your repair. Yes, running on low with no leaks is a tel-tale sign that your shaft seal is leaking. Best of Luck!!!
Nice job! Never get rid of that direct drive, it is the best washer one could have. One of the reasons why the main tub seal doesn't go bad often is because unlike the seals for the agitator shaft and the spin tube, that one isn't on any moving parts. Like you said though, if you have it all apart to replace said seals, you may as well replace the main one too. Can't hurt anything. You could also inspect those white wear pads that you mentioned about towards the end, but based on how the machine was when operating, they're probably fine. Glad you got the 6-padded spin clutch! When removing the spin tube, you can easily get it out by turning the brake cam counterclockwise to release the pads, makes it much easier! Same with reinstalling it too. Smart idea to grease the brake assembly too so the pads move easier. You're probably the first person I've seen do that. Unsure why your tub spring brackets are so rusty. But you can always get replacements if ever needed.
Thank you Sharkie626. I appreciate your support and your input. You’ve made some great points in your comments. The direct drives are awsome machines. All the Best my friend!!!
Just got done replacing my clutch plate. Tub wouldn't spin and it was leaking. Figured I would be changing the tub gasket, didn't think about the shaft seals! This is going to save me a lot of time! I would have taken everything apart, put it back together and probably would have had the same problem. I have a 23 year old Kenmore Series 90 washer. I want to keep it for another 23 years! Thanks for a great video!
As long as the motor holds out your in good shape. The cost to replace the motor would be too much to keep the old girl going! They are good quality machines that’s for sure. Thank you for watching and supporting my channel. Stay safe and healthy!!!
Brother, my washing machine is exactly the same and that was my problem, your video was what I needed to solve my problem, thanks for your contribution.
Man that was a tremendous amount of work but you probably felt so proud of it knowing that you fixed the problem. I like the simplest ones like washer n drier lid switches lol
Jose Landaverry - Well put my friend. I’ve been down similar roads with other machines including this one, so I was in familiar territory. My luck= Never simple like a lid switch or loose wire. NEVER!!! Lol. Thanks for supporting my channel. Best-
Great video. Helped me solve my leaking problem. Lots of gunk removal to get my tub out making this a harder job than it looks. I had to use penetrating oil and let it set for an hour. Pully puller worked great.
Great video. One thing to check are the bearings in the tub support tube. If those bearings are worn, it is likely the spin tube shaft is scored and you'll need to replace those parts or the new seals will go bad in a short period of time. Your spin tube appeared fine though.
Thanks for the great video. You can use a socket of the proper diamater to tap in those shaft seals. When installing the transmishion wrap the splines with electrical tape to prevent them from damaging the inner seal.
Great video. Just what I needed for my Roper. I went ahead and got a new washer today. What prices on these things? My Roper was 10 and half years old, so I went ahead after just fixing it from not spinning, and then seeing it was leaking in the center. Then tearing it apart and seeing it was the top seal leaking, that I decided to get a new washer. Now after seeing your video, I will now order those parts and fix my old washer.
Had a leak in mine and the clutch slipping. Playing around I tried a small load and the leak stopped. Guessed a seal or hose was the problem. Got a seal for the tub bottom but got to thinking that it would still leak on a small load if that was the problem. Haven't fixed it yet and think the shaft seals are the issue. Random no spin issues are now a problem even after drying out and cleaning the clutch. Suspect a wiring or timer control dial may also be a problem. Determined to fix it as I don't like any of the new machines available today. Thanks much for this informative video.
I happened across your video after doing a similar repair on my washer a few days ago. One thing I don't see in the video, nor in the comments, is that there are actually two of each of each of these seals. They are stacked on top of each other. I replaced the basket drive with the brake on it (and a good thing since mine was very rusty and didn't want to come out of the base) and it came with the seals already in it but the base housing with the larger seal actually had a second one underneath the first. I only ordered one so I only replaced one but to do the job right you should replace both. The basket drive with the brake also has two of those smaller seals stacked on top of each other. You can verify this with the parts diagram on sears parts direct website.
Did you end up putting 2 seals, one on top of the other?? I have messed up 4 seals trying to get them seated where it is so tight fitting and that's just with one. I don't know how in the world to get two down in there, but I do know that when it's level at the top there is a gap under it and my washer still leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
@@sueramsey7031 I only removed one and only replaced one. I left the old lower one in there. There wasn't much left of it but I didn't try to dig it out. Mine has been fine.
the new bearing and seal kits only have 2 seals for the top - 1 below the bearing and 1 above the bearing with the grease groove on the inside of the seal...
I included the major disassembly. I figure if individuals don’t know how to gain access to the motor and transmission and disconnect the water pump and all the simple steps they really shouldn’t be going for replacing the seals. Thanks for watching I appreciate your support. Stay safe my friend.
Thanks for the great video, it's very helpful. But my 25 year old Kenmore is leaking. I'll check it out, but if it's not a simple problem like the drain pump, then I'll just buy a new washer. Too much work even for a mechanical person like me. I have also read that newer machines are more energy efficient.
A+ on that vid and how it was all handled. It seemed shorter than it was because it was hustled along and there was no extra dwelling and repeating like some irritating vids.
Shakdi Dagalimal - Wow what a fabulous compliment. So you’re saying you didn’t look at your watch during the whole movie. Lol. Thank you so much, I’m glad the video was helpful and not boring and dragging. I do work hard at editing to try to keep all my videos entertaining, short and to the point as there’s nothing worse then dragging on and on. Thank you for watching. Stay safe and healthy!!! All the Best-
My tub action seems okay and I recently removed the tub and did a complete tub cleaning, however I noticed what looks like oil residue on the floor under the unit. Does the transmission have an oil seal?
Thank you. I was going through the process of elimination to stop my washer from leaking and I didn't think about the seals. Parts are on order. Thank you.
@@SmokinwithKasket ,, My Whirlpool is dripping when in motion only. Is it the shaft seal ? Shouldn't the tube seal leak even when the machine is off once water is in the machine ?
Try filling the water level to a low setting. Run it. If no leak then raise the level higher. I still suspect the seals. Mine leaked only on motion. If no leak on low water level but a leak on high water level that’s fir sure your seals!
Great video! Thanks for your hard work and advice! We have the same washer as you have kenmore elite and our leak ended up being the hose where the water fills the washer up on top right at the hose conection but your info is so spot on for more serious stuff ! Thsnks again!
Would be good idea to change the clutch. It’s cheap and readily available. Like the good old days - changing the spark plugs and wires but not the cap & rotor.
Thanks for the quick response William your answer put my concerns at ease , it ‘s not a hard washer to work on if your mechanical skilled thanks again .
Thanks for the information. Mine is unfortunately from 2007 so the basket (brake) and transmission/shaft is coming in one piece. I don't want to hit the pry bar too hard but might need to. I put some pb blaster on the top seal so hopefully it goes all of the way down and lubricates the shaft. EDIT: Finally got that sucker off. I had to use a pry-bar to get it off. It had a lot of soap build-up!
Great video! My 1996 KitchenAid washer will leak about 1/2 cup of water … only when fill level is 7/8 filled or higher… not with smaller fill levels.. I’m assuming it’s the top transmission seal. Would you agree? By the way, I just replaced the neutral drain in the transmission and I’m wondering if removing and reinstalling the transmission somehow disturbed the seal because after that the leaking began.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I would agree with you 100% that disturbing those old seals has caused them to begin leaking. And also that’s a telltale sign that it’s the upper seal issue if your unit does not leak when you have a smaller load or a lower water level in it.
Great video! Very helpful. I'm working on my 15 year old Kenmore washer which stopped spinning and I went through living Hell trying to remove the spanner nut, drive block and the brake assembly because of all the built up gunk. I haven't found the cause of the "no spin" problem as yet but I'm thinking the brake tube locked up inside the drum as I had to knock the top of the transmission shaft to get it off but as it's totally disassembled, I'm going to change all the seals, clutch, braking system and do a overhaul of the transmission, all new parts. I couldn't find a video dealing with the seals until I came across yours. Thanks!! One other thing that you can maybe advise me on.....the inside of the tube of the tub and some parts of the outside under the agitator are showing a LOT of corrosion. Is it wise to try to use a rust remover and some scraping to get rid of some of the corrosion then give the cleaned tub a coat of primer and appliance white or should I just scrap the project and dump the washer? The drive block was actually seized into the top of the tub and I had to knock it down the tub shaft with a large socket and an extension because of the amount of corrosion inside. What do you think? Yea or nay?
My deepest apologies for not getting back with you sooner. With that amount of corrosion that you’re describing, I would recommend buying a new machine. As soon as you repair this one or if you’re able to repair this one it sounds like you’ll have trouble with other components including the frame. Or see if you can purchase the tube assembly that might be another option. Honestly I’m getting older and growing tired of working on things over and over and over. That’s why I suggest it might be time to purchase new. Since your this far into it though go ahead and proceed the repair but if you find yourself tearing this thing down more than once every two years or so I would dump it.
This is is by far the best video ive seen for the direct drive washers. I have the same problem with my elite 80 series washer. Water is leaking down through the clutch assembly onto the transmisson which unfortunately got into the transmission and caused oil to leak all over the floor ruining the transmission. so I recently bought a new transmisson and replaced the lower and upper shaft seals along with the main tub seal and out everything back together thanks to this great video. Now having said all that i started a small load and noticed there was water dripping down the frame of the washer. So i dissasembled the washer again down to just the outer tub and noticed that if i just have enough water to cover the bottom main tub seal it does not leak but if i push down on the bottom of the outer tub a tiny bit acting like there is a large load of water the main tub seal leaks. Anyone have any ideas what i can do here? I was wondering do i have to use some sort of glue when installing the seal to make it water tight? Just wanted to mention this incase others are having the same issue as me and unfortunately replacing the seals didn't fix the issue I was having. So this also might be the problem to the water leak that you and others are having.
Thanks for this video - great!- it’s funny we have an old kenmore washer that we love- it’s 18-19 years old and now seems to need a drum seal / bearing replacement but having problems finding parts- any idea where I could buy them?
Wow! thank you for this, I have a 20 year old washer that the motor still sounds good and is leaking water too. I am going to have to try to do this procedure on it. you did a very good job in explaining each step. Thanks again.
Thank you. I always wonder if I failed to explain myself when doing these types of videos. Thank you for the feedback. Hope this helped your situation. All the Best-
@@carmac1652 - Nice channel. You definitely deserve way more views and subscribers. Keep the great videos coming and your numbers will rise!!! I am amazed by the growth of my channel. All the Best-
Old video but people like me are still trying to do this repair. When I looked on appliance parts pros the installation video shows there are 2 seals for the top of the spin tube. Looks like you only replaced one but apparently it worked. WP91939 is the part you changed but underneath it is another seal WP356427.
Excellent instructional video. Clear, concise and detailed. Thank you for making this video it was very helpful. My question is how do you resolve the issue of the drive block to tight on the drive tube? Both parts are brand new. I don't think you should force block to seat in the tube. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Hi Khan. Thank you for the awesome review. Much appreciated and I’m glad the video was helpful. To answer your question about the drive block, if I’m understanding correctly, just tighten the spanner nut down nice and firm. This will force both parts to seat correctly and securely, especially if they are new. Hope this helped. Stay safe and healthy. All the Best-
@@SmokinwithKasket Most instructional video regarding this type of repair shows that the drive block just simply sliding into the drive tube. In my case , the block doesn't seem to fit into the new drive tube. Even though they are the correct parts. I've tried sanding the inside wall of the block just to remove a little of material but to no avail. So I ended up polishing and using the old drive block with the new drive tube. Thank you for your response.
Sorry to hear you had such problems. Things never seems to go easy. Glad you figured out a solution. I can’t figure why the two parts wouldn’t seat correctly. Hopefully someone knowledgeable with this specific issue will see this post and offer an explanation. Best Wishes.
Good video and I appreciate the information. Did I miss it where you added any oil or grease back into the transmission case before reassembly? Mine had slung a good amount out in the bottom, which is what ultimately caused the clutch to slip. I'm just wondering what I need to stick back in there before reassembly. Any ideas?
Thank you for this video. It help me learn where to fix the leak. I have a question that I hope you don't mind answering because it would cost some money to fix it. I have 2006 whirlpool direct drive just like yours. Well, I never tried or seen how new HE washing machines they now sell in Lowes or Home Depot, but not sure if I should get a new one because I don't know if it clean the clothes as good as the old one. Please let me know. Thanks.
good day, nice video, I pulled my old reliable apart and replaced the upper and lower seals plus the tub one, fired it up and guess what , still leaks :(, I noticed while I was down there looking for the leak that the noise it makes with the agitator seemed little odd, pulled it back apart and I can wiggle the shaft that goes though the lower seal, is there a bearing or bushing below that lower seal?, can't find anything online for parts?, is my unit trashed?, thanks for your time
There should be no play in that shaft. Especially since you replace the new seals. There is not a bushing or a bearing. At least not to my knowledge however, your model may be different. I would do some more research before I scrap the machine. My apologies. I don’t think I was much help here.
@@SmokinwithKasket I used all the part# you gave out, worked fine, I just found wp-8546455, looks like a bushing, one in the bottom and top, looks like im pulling the shaft apart now :( . I managed to take both seals out and install the new ones without taking the shaft apart by removing the tranny, no choice now, cheers
Buy two of each of the seals so you have second chance if you mess up the first try - they are not as easy to install as this video makes it look like if your washer is old. The top seal is the hardest to install.
I have a question. I have a Kenmore 80 series and as I was putting the motor back in this copper like pin with a small hole on the end fell out of something. Don't know where it came from. Do you know where the pin came from? Would like your advice. Thank you!
Hello and thank you for watching and commenting. That copper or brass looking pin which is about an inch and a half long is used for shipping purposes from the manufacturer to the retail store. No need to worry about the placement. It’s not needed. Hope this was helpful. Thank you for watching commenting and hopefully subscribing.
It has to be different manufacturers. The original part had three pads if I remember correctly. All additional clutch units I’ve purchased had numerous friction pads like this. They work great!!!! Thank you fir watching.
Great video, my tub makes a lot of noise as it spins up then smooths out a little. Sound is louder if heavier load like jeans. Are there upper and lower tub bearings for the shaft or is this noise from a dirty clutch or both. The seals will be changed either way.
Brilliantly made repair video! Good pace, all the technical points covered, all part #'s called out! QUESTION: Where to get that 1/16" socket or nut driver for the fill shut off level adjustment? I'm about to make a tool using an Alan capscrew that uses the 1/16" Alan wrench.
Thank you for the awesome comment and thank you for watching and subscribing. I think that tool that you’re making for the fill shut off level adjustment will work perfect. Check Amazon or a appliance supply company for that tool. Thank you again, Happy New Year and stay safe.
I don’t think trying to seal the tub will be successful because of the continuous, flexing, even from the weight of the water coming in and draining. If you are unable to order that part, I would suggest as a last resort to try that.
Any idea where to find the part # for one of the upper transmission seals? There's some oily residue so I'd like to replace them while I'm in there. The pinion gear in the trans that also has the 4 fingers that the clutch rides on. There's a small seal inside of the gear that seals against the main shaft. I removed it but there are no numbers anywhere. Guess I could take it to the local shop and have them match it up. But you seem super knowledgeable about these things so I figured you might have a break down parts list or something. Thanks
Any videos that show the complete breakdown? I need something that shows wires and all or I'll screw something up. Mine is a 110 something can't remember exactly it's one that has sensors. So it's not exact.
Hello. Thank you for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. I do not have a video of a complete breakdown for this unit. I’m sure there has to be a video that would be close to a complete breakdown for this or a similar unit.
Roughly how many hours did it take you to do the job? Was going to attempt mine at about 1:00 pm, but would that be something that you had better elect to start earlier in the morning if you want to be done with it by about 5 pm?
You’ll have to pry my direct drive Whirlpool from my cold dead hands 😃. I even have an extra one and spare parts. I may be a little obsessive but deal with a new junk HE washer and you will see why.
After hearing the nightmares with the bug eyed front loaders, I started hitting up people for their " junk" washers abandoned in their back yards and picking them up in alleys or big item trash days. I built up a nice trade selling used direct drive Kenmore/Whirlpool machines. (The other brands too expensive to fix and much fewer used parts avail). $200 and 100 day warrenty plus I pay them $20 if they want to dispose of it afterward. I am actually out of business because I rarely find them any more. I kept 2 spares for me plus 2 gas dryers...no computer.
It's going to be a sad day when they phase these out, if they havent already...I am seeing dead 3-6 year old washers...they sell almost all junk now. What a waste...
@butchtropic Yup. The washer has been scrapped but the motor is up for takers. The scrap guy got here first, but I saved the motor. I hope someone will want it.
thanks for this instructions ,they helped me to disassemble and assemble it back putting all the springs in the way they should be ,definitively well explained and detailed ,as we need all ..........
I found this video extremely helpful, I couldn't have made the repairs I did without it, but I do want to toss in a couple of considerations for DIYers or even people experienced at making repairs.
We have an old Whirlpool commercial capacity washer and dryer in our company shop that we've used for 20+ years. I got them off my mother when she passed. They've done yeoman's work of at least 5 loads a week, year in and year out ever since. I've worked on them regularly through the years changing out belts, relays, switches, igniters, pumps, transmissions, hoses, controls, etc. We could easily afford a new one, but I love these old machines, their simplicity, their capacity, and their reliability. Having said this, I think this has been the most challenging repair of all that I've made on it.
Here's why! The drive block was frozen to the drive tube. No amount of WD-4- or Liquid Wrench made any impression. I finally had to place my spanner underneath the nut to get enough leverage with the 3-jaw puller to break it loose. When it finally did, it broke the tube lock on the bottom and the whole assembly came out. It then took concerted effort with a rubber hammer and a wood block to separate the two from the inner tub and even more to get the drive block off the shaft. I have a small press. This is information is not meant to dissuade you, just warn you in advance that this may not go smoothly.
That assembly hasn't ever been out of the machine, even when I put in the new transmission. Truthfully I didn't even know the upper and lower seals were there. The problem with mine, perhaps like yours, is that I let is leak for more than a month before I gave up on it and decided to tear it down and make the repairs. This added some rust and other issues to the springs and getting them loose. I've machined and mechaniced since I was 19 and I rarely give up. I'm almost 69 now and I did eventually get it all out and I did make the repairs. I also broke the water inlet spout which cost me about $45 more dollars.
We've always kept pretty much an entire machine in our storeroom and other than the upper and lower seals and the tub seal, I had a transmission I rebuilt on hand and a brand new spintube assy. I also have access to welders, lathes, flame-spray, end mills, etc. Hence I wasn't afraid to break something if I had too. I've rambled all this time to say that you less well-armed DIYers may need a contingency plan in case things don't go so smoothly or quickly. We're in a small town, but we have the Internet here (Amazon) and we also have an appliance parts store 20 minutes away. If they don't have it they bring it out of LA the next day.
Honestly, when I was 19 I would've beat the Hell out this machine with a ballpein hammer. People would've heard me take the Lord's name in vain repeatedly. Sailors would've blushed. Of course then I'd have had to go out and buy a new washer. Five decades later I have a few more skills, cooler temper, better tools, and easy access to the proper parts if I break something accidentally. I also have the luxury of taking a week to do this repair since I'm the boss and we were smart enough to buy a used spare Kenmore clone set a couple of years back for standby. Almost all the same parts on both.
I find this to be the best video on YT for this repair topic. I hope this comment wasn't too far off track and wish all of you the best of good fortune in the teardown and reassembly of your washer. Keep up the good work William Kasper...
Thank you, my friend for your input. That was some awesome information and extremely satisfying to read. And it is true the older you get the more patience you have to deal with these kinds of repairs. I was fortunate to get my tub separated with a three jaw chuck and I wished I would have demonstrated that in the video. I will say this is an in-depth repair And can be difficult pulling parts apart that have not been apart for decades. I’m glad this video was helpful for you. I almost didn’t do it because I generally do videos about smoking meat and outdoor barbecue recipes and it was a last minute decision to grab the tripod and phone and begin filming this video. On top of the amount of work required to do this type of repair. It’s also very time consuming and Difficult to use the camera and narrate and then edit and do all the required functions for a TH-cam video. I have to laugh because I must’ve been feeling energetically when I decided to do this repair and make a video out of it. Thank you for watching and sharing and hopefully subscribing. Stay safe and thank you again for your story.
-Warm Regards
No mames, pues que técnico eres?😂
Same here - used a gear puller to break the drive block free. It fought hard to stay on. My washer is 35 years old and had never been apart.
Great vid! As appliance tech for last 22 years I never seen this direct drive washer leaking because of the upper transmission shaft seal . it is always tub seal or lower delta support seal. And yes this is the most dependable and repair friendly washer ,always worth to repair it and keep it! These days appliances are disposable junk made to last 5 years .
I replaced W10820043 BASKET DRIVE ( shaft w/ seal yesterday for leaking and noisy) Only seemed to leak at high water level
Hi, whats this 'lower delta support seal' you speak of ? Thanks.
@@ArnoTrek I believe he is speaking of the tub support seal.
@@bryanjones4985 I don't understand the difference
Thanks for your comment, I was wondering what a pro tech would say about this machine. I've replaced many parts on my machine (Whirlpool LSR6334LQ0)...Hopefully the trans will hang in there, it seems to leak few drops after a month or so.
Thank you so much for this. Been repairing my 30+ year old whirlpool and nobody talks about these exact seals. I dont know how long it wouldve taken me to get finished without your help. Im pretty sure the tip about using the puller for the basket saved my sanity. Ill def check out your other content.
@@nebuler1 so glad the video was helpful!!!
4years later! The best instructional video ever!
Thank you. So glad it was helpful! Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Khhhhhbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
@@SmokinwithKasket
It looks like to me is there’s corrosion and pitting on the shaft were to seal run on. I would have replaced the shaft just in case. I’m a retired maintenance machinist and worked on a lot of high pressure pumps and I would machine a replace the shaft. Just my two cents
Great video and super helpful. One thing to note for anyone attempting this repair- the lower shaft seal has a metal ring embedded in the rubber that you have to mangle to get it out of the tube. Don't put the screwdriver in too deep or it won't grab. I thought I was messing up the tube until I got the whole thing out.
The upper seal also has a metal collar in it.
Excellent Instructional Video Bill. I like how you didn't have a lot of fluff talk, just got down to business and kept it concise. This is very helpful. I think my tub seal has gone out but I'm going to replace the shaft seals and clutch since I'm in there. My washer is only 28 years old. I've repaired it so many times I can't count. It just keeps trucking along with minor fixes.
Thank you for the awesome feedback. Appreciate you watching and commenting. Yes- these washers are built tough!!! Stay safe!!!
Thank you for this video. I’m right there on my 80’s Kenmore. The ex used to flood the basement with the leak.I got another used one and always wanted to rebuild this one. This washer was in my parents house in the early 80’s. The girl is gone, but my love of this washer isn’t. They sure as hell, don’t make them like they used to. Thanks,William. I’m drinking a cold one in your honor.
Awesome story. So glad this video was helpful. They really don’t make them like they use to!!! Thank you for watching and supporting and leaving the great comment. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Much appreciated my friend. Stay safe and healthy.
😆 Lol
You want to sell it?
Thank you!! If I had not seen this I would have been at a loss since after disassembly it was clear that the leak coming from the center of my 25 year old Kenmore was not the tub seal. If not for this I probably would have retired the machine. I used a socket to seat the upper seal as another comment suggested and things are back to normal. As for removing the basket, I tried a 3 jaw puller but it didn't break it loose. I ended up removing the spanner nut, placing the spanner wrench (tabs facing up) over the shaft, screwing the spanner nut back on partway, then placing a large adjustable wrench above the spanner wrench (resting on the shaft) and using two large c-clamps (one on each side of the shaft) to compress the spanner wrench and adjustable wrench together. This easily broke the basket free. It had never been removed in 25 years.
Hi Michael. Glad to hear this video was helpful. A 25 year old Kenmore; Mine is half that age. They are amazing machines. In 12 years time we fostered over 27 kids and adopted 5. Our Kenmore washer and dryer have ran 24 hours a day for many days at times. At one time I considered getting a second pair washer and dryer. Those days are over thank God! My units have been put though their paces and proved to be amazing machines. Thanks for the input on removing your basket. I can imagine after a quarter of a century, that baby was fused on that shaft! Thank you for sharing your method of (basket) removal. Thanks again for your support. All the Best my friend.
Thank you for the video. I have a Kenmore 90 series model 110.4786291 (used for 26 years) and all the parts were the same, even the shaft seal at the transmission level that you did not use. I also change the lower transmission seal with kit part W10111745 & 285352.
I prefer using a socket than a screwdriver to instal the seals (9mm for upper shaft seal and 32 mm for lower shaft seal).
I tested the washer without the covers. I had a white piece of paper underneath the transmission to confirm there is no longer any water or oil leak. To do so, you will have to bypass the lid switch with a 14-gage copper wire.
My Kenmore washer has Transmission cover seal, Tub seal, lower spin tube seal, upper spin tube seal, and Transmission upper shaft seal.
I'm replacing all, don't wanna go back there in a hurry.
Replacing clutch kit also.
Your video is very helpful.
hey you're right there are not many other videos talking about these shaft seals, I am just starting the job of taking my machine apart and digging in to see where the problems lie. I wouldn't have known to look for the shaft seals and I probably will just replace my shaft seals and my tub seal to hopefully get my machine back to working like its intended. Thanks for stepping up and making this video. cheers bro
I have a 25 year old Kenmore 90 series that had the original seals in it. It started leaking water earlier this year so I knew I had to replace them. When I took the old seals out they were so rotten that even the metal sleeves on them were rusty. My old drive tube was so rusty and pitted I just ended up replacing that too. Now it runs like new and doesn't leak any water. Thanks for making this video. You've helped a lot of people do this procedure! Also, using a spanner wrench the spanner nut came off surprisingly easy and the basket I was able to get off fairly easy with a three jaw puller.
Hi Robin. Thank you for the awesome comment. I am so happy to hear that my video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching and hopefully subscribing.
Great video.. I have a whirlpool top load that runs the same way and the setup is the same, direct drive shaft.. Mine was agitating but not spinning when it reached that cycle. Changed the clutch still didn't spin. Checked the coupler and it was good. With the cabinet off I checked to see if the clutch was spinning when the machine was on, it wasn't. Took off the transmission and manually turned the motor, didn't turn. Decided to go into the transmission. As soon as I set free the plate that covers the transmission, where the oil and gears are, about a cup of water rushed out. So I decided to drain all of the oil that was in the transmission, and half was oil and half water. Cleaned the transmission with kerosine and a clean paint brush, allowed it to dry, topped back up the transmission with 16oz oil and assembled the machine.. Machine is now perking, agitating, spinning and working like brand new.. Before this episode I had to change the tub, upper and lower shaft seals due to a leak. I guess what happened was water leaked into the transmission causing the gears to slip, so if you're changing your seals for a leak, check the oil in the transmission for water as well before you reassemble
Outstanging video, Sir! You are a Gentlemen & a Scholar! My hat is off to you.
AWESOME comment. Thank you. Hope the video was helpful. Stay safe!!!
Outstanding! Guess how I found out about your video? After 10 years my washer started doing the same and I looked around and by far your video is the best so, I decided to repair the washer myself-Thanks a lot for your great help!
Great to hear. Thank you for watching and hopefully subscribing. Appreciate your amazing comments. Stay safe!!!
This is why I love youtube. The clutch is shot on my 15 year old Roper and I was about to place an order. Then I come across your video and you're the only one that mentions these seals. I was wondering why my clutch housing was rusty. It's because water has been seeping in. Thanks again for sharing!
Thank you for watching and commenting. Glad the video was helpful. Best Wishes.
@@SmokinwithKasket Tore into mine this morning and thankfully I didn't even need a puller. One question though. There's another seal inside the shaft down at the base, just above where the brake assembly fits into. It's more of a normal seal like you'd find on a car. Any reason you didn't bother with that one?
@@89Mirageman - Because normally it’s the top seal that gives out and I didn’t want to disturb the bottom seal if I didn’t have to so I just replace the top one and everything worked out fine.
My philosophy is if it works don’t fix it. However since you’ve got the machine all tore down if you feel comfortable removing that bottom seal which is kind of hard to get at go ahead and give it a shot. Thanks for watching and commenting and I hope the video is helpful for you!
Great video! Direct and to the point without lacking essential knowledge for the repair. Thank you!
Awesome feedback. Much appreciated and glad the video was helpful. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Stay safe!!!
As I'll be in this deep would you mind recommending other parts to replace while I'm there? Thanks again. Love this washer, it's been a good one!
@@jackchappell001 - Really simple. I would replace the tub seal (very inexpensive) and the clutch (buy the clutch kit) and the motor coupler (round rubber pice with 3 holes used to connect the motor shaft to the transmission). That should be all you’ll need in addition to the shaft seals of course.
I agree, this is a very well built washer!!!! Keep it running as long as you can. Stay safe!!!
This was extremely helpful and I appreciate the fact that you didn’t sit there and ramble on about silly stuff that didn’t make a difference about fixing the washing machine I did do a little bit different online I used a two finger wheel puller or gear puller against the backside of the nut upside down so I had more of a flat surface and it pulled it straight out on the inside drum thanks for the video it was extremely helpful I’m going to keep using it while I replay as I’m putting it back together to make sure I don’t forget anything awesome I’ll be watching your next videos thanks again
Mark.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I’m glad to hear that my style of video was helpful. Sometimes I’m not sure if I’m making myself clear but thank you for the awesome comment. Stay safe and happy new year!
Great job, I've watched this video about six times now. I think I've got it. Very thorough commentary and step by step visuals. Got my part and patients really, wish me luck. Thanks again for this video, I feel confident I can do the job.
This was one of the most useful video I seen in awhile, thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the video. My Kitchen Aid washer is 26 years old. I've already replaced the tub seal and other parts. It recently started leaking again but from these seals. The seals are on order and should be in soon. Your video is going to help a lot.
Thank you for watching and commenting and hopefully subscribing. I’m glad to hear that my video was or will be helpful for your project. Best wishes and stay safe.
I haven't started to take mine apart yet. At first I suspected the tub gasket, which looked pretty indepth to replace, and now I'm watching your great video. I have to give you top marks for giving the part numbers for the gaskets as well. Don't see that often. Thanks.
Also, with my luck I'd go through this 17 day job(lol), put it all back together and the forking thing will still be leaking, if not more, because I pinched this or didn't knock this in evenly.
Glad it helped. Thank you so much for the kind comment.
Excellent DIY video, I followed your video and got my leaky washer back in service. Kudos to you !
Deb Good - great to hear. Glad it was helpful. Stay safe.
Thanks for the video. My older Kenmore was leaking and watching this saved me some extra hassle. I thought it was my tub seal, turns out it was the shaft seal. Proved this by doing a load on LOW and MED LOW water levels and it didn't leak a drop until the rinse cycle (full tub on rinse). On MED water level is where it started leaking while agitating. Thus, shaft seal, not tub seal.
BoHunter2010 Great to hear this helped. Yeah - never as easy as the tub seal. Let me know how your repair panned out. Thanks my friend.
Thanks for this- I've worked on many things around the home and cars but never a washer, always figured they were way too complicated or just not worth messing with. Very well done and easy to follow
Excellent video and thanks for taking the time to do it. The direct drive washing machines are worth saving!
Thank you for your support and kind words. Much appreciated! I hope this video helped others with their leaky washers. There are not many videos on replacing the shaft seals. Thanks again.
Bill - Thank you so much for this great detailed, articulate video. Saved me so much time. - especially, your suggestions about using tools like a gear puller
Generally, most of us will have these tools because we've picked up our repair-skills working on cars. All the best Bill.
Robert Giunta - Thank you for the positive feedback. I’m happy to hear this video was helpful. I regret not demonstrating the gear-puller on the video. Got distracted in my own project and failed to illustrate the gear-puller. Thank you for watching. Please feel free to browse my channel and if you’re interested in BBQ and smoking, please subscribe. Happy New Year!!!!
Instablaster.
im a disabled vet that is on soc.sec.and i needed a way to make some extra money i was picking scrap metal doung hauling ppl suff to the dump anything to keep food on the table about 10 years sgo i ran an ad on craigslist saying any body that will show me the basics of washer and dryer repair for everydsy the show me ill donate a day of my time to do whatever they need done whether cutiing there grass or dating there daughter any ways 10 years later im pushing them out of my garage and beating used appliance stores buy 50 % now this video is one of the best ive seen ive removed many tubs when i have one thats stuck i spray a soapy cleaner around the top of the drive block let it sit a few min. then ill take the end of my spanner wrench set it on top of the drive block and give the other end a good solid wack ..comes free everytime
AWESOME VIDEO. Thanks so much. You are correct, there are tons of videos regarding the clutch, the pump, etc. This is the only video on this subject and it is great! Dude, you tore that machine UP! Literally. I learned a lot. 👍
Wow! Thank you for the awesome comments. I’m really happy to hear this video was helpful for you. Please subscribe if you haven’t already - stay safe and healthy.
Wish I had found this video before I had replaced the tub seal first. Great Video!!! Gotta break it back down for the shaft seals now.
Yes - It would have been great if it were only the tub seal. Such an easy repair. Never that easy my friend!!! At least with my luck. Let us know how your repair went. All the Best-
Excellent vid , I have this EXACT problem with a 20 year old Kenmore , it alwaya leaked for the last couple of years , but now the clutch is slipping , and so I ran it with the body off and YES the water is dripping onto the cluch on spin and wash cycle , the machine only leaks on medium water level , not on low , so Im guessing it is the same problem , I will follow this vid step by step while doing the job , Thank you for this tutorial on replacing the upper and lower shaft seals , I would have replaced the tub seal alone and been in the same place , with a LEAK !! , Thanks a million for this info , and you were right , its the first vid posted to show a detailed breakdown of the seal locations and replacement , you Rock Bill ., God Bless .........
Awesome to hear - I'm glad this video was helpful. Appreciate your kind support. Let us known your outcome following your repair. Yes, running on low with no leaks is a tel-tale sign that your shaft seal is leaking. Best of Luck!!!
Nice job! Never get rid of that direct drive, it is the best washer one could have. One of the reasons why the main tub seal doesn't go bad often is because unlike the seals for the agitator shaft and the spin tube, that one isn't on any moving parts. Like you said though, if you have it all apart to replace said seals, you may as well replace the main one too. Can't hurt anything. You could also inspect those white wear pads that you mentioned about towards the end, but based on how the machine was when operating, they're probably fine. Glad you got the 6-padded spin clutch!
When removing the spin tube, you can easily get it out by turning the brake cam counterclockwise to release the pads, makes it much easier! Same with reinstalling it too. Smart idea to grease the brake assembly too so the pads move easier. You're probably the first person I've seen do that. Unsure why your tub spring brackets are so rusty. But you can always get replacements if ever needed.
Thank you Sharkie626. I appreciate your support and your input. You’ve made some great points in your comments. The direct drives are awsome machines. All the Best my friend!!!
The best instructions I've seen on this. Unfortunately for me, i think I must change the transmission shaft seal.
Awesome. Thank you.
Great detailed washer repair. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching, commenting and hopefully subscribing. Hope the video was helpful for you. Warm regards!
Just got done replacing my clutch plate. Tub wouldn't spin and it was leaking. Figured I would be changing the tub gasket, didn't think about the shaft seals! This is going to save me a lot of time! I would have taken everything apart, put it back together and probably would have had the same problem. I have a 23 year old Kenmore Series 90 washer. I want to keep it for another 23 years! Thanks for a great video!
As long as the motor holds out your in good shape. The cost to replace the motor would be too much to keep the old girl going! They are good quality machines that’s for sure. Thank you for watching and supporting my channel. Stay safe and healthy!!!
@@SmokinwithKasket Used motors on ebay are often reasonably priced. Use cross reference part numbers from an appliance site.
Use a socket or piece of PVC the size of your seal. Helps knock them in flush without risking puncture.
Excellent advise. Thank you.
Brother, my washing machine is exactly the same and that was my problem, your video was what I needed to solve my problem, thanks for your contribution.
Glad to hear this video was helpful. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Stay safe and healthy!!!!
Thanks for the demo William. Made my day easier with an internal leak of a 7 year old Kenmore.
Glad to hear it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Man that was a tremendous amount of work but you probably felt so proud of it knowing that you fixed the problem. I like the simplest ones like washer n drier lid switches lol
Jose Landaverry - Well put my friend. I’ve been down similar roads with other machines including this one, so I was in familiar territory. My luck= Never simple like a lid switch or loose wire. NEVER!!! Lol. Thanks for supporting my channel. Best-
DUDE!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE DIRECTIONS. JUST TAKES PATIENCE BUT WORTH THE MAINTENANCE!! ITS AN OLDIE BUT GOODIE!! AGAIN THANK YOU!!
Glad I could help! Thank you for watching.
Great video. Helped me solve my leaking problem. Lots of gunk removal to get my tub out making this a harder job than it looks. I had to use penetrating oil and let it set for an hour. Pully puller worked great.
The right man for this channel. Excellent. .. I'm giving you an A. Thanks brother.
What a generous comment. Thank you very much!!! Hope your staying safe and healthy during these trying times. All the Best my friend!
Thanks for sharing. I found that hammering a 3/4" socket on that upper seal will drive it in fairly easily.
Thank you sir. The best video I’ve seen on this subject. I watched 7 videos but non as detailed as yours.
Pablo's Buick Garage - Thank you for your positive support. Hope the video helped with your situation.
Great video. One thing to check are the bearings in the tub support tube. If those bearings are worn, it is likely the spin tube shaft is scored and you'll need to replace those parts or the new seals will go bad in a short period of time. Your spin tube appeared fine though.
Awesome suggestion. Thank you. I appreciate you watching and sharing.
Excellent video - your detailed descriptions and accompanying video was great!
Thank you for watching and commenting. I hope the video was helpful. Have a great day!!!
Thanks for the great video. You can use a socket of the proper diamater to tap in those shaft seals. When installing the transmishion wrap the splines with electrical tape to prevent them from damaging the inner seal.
Any idea what size sockets? I've cracked the upper shaft seal three times trying to knock them in
@@jerryblack21 Sory, can't remember.
Great video. Just what I needed for my Roper. I went ahead and got a new washer today. What prices on these things? My Roper was 10 and half years old, so I went ahead after just fixing it from not spinning, and then seeing it was leaking in the center. Then tearing it apart and seeing it was the top seal leaking, that I decided to get a new washer. Now after seeing your video, I will now order those parts and fix my old washer.
Had a leak in mine and the clutch slipping. Playing around I tried a small load and the leak stopped. Guessed a seal or hose was the problem. Got a seal for the tub bottom but got to thinking that it would still leak on a small load if that was the problem. Haven't fixed it yet and think the shaft seals are the issue. Random no spin issues are now a problem even after drying out and cleaning the clutch. Suspect a wiring or timer control dial may also be a problem. Determined to fix it as I don't like any of the new machines available today. Thanks much for this informative video.
I happened across your video after doing a similar repair on my washer a few days ago. One thing I don't see in the video, nor in the comments, is that there are actually two of each of each of these seals. They are stacked on top of each other. I replaced the basket drive with the brake on it (and a good thing since mine was very rusty and didn't want to come out of the base) and it came with the seals already in it but the base housing with the larger seal actually had a second one underneath the first. I only ordered one so I only replaced one but to do the job right you should replace both. The basket drive with the brake also has two of those smaller seals stacked on top of each other. You can verify this with the parts diagram on sears parts direct website.
Did you end up putting 2 seals, one on top of the other?? I have messed up 4 seals trying to get them seated where it is so tight fitting and that's just with one. I don't know how in the world to get two down in there, but I do know that when it's level at the top there is a gap under it and my washer still leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
@@sueramsey7031 I only removed one and only replaced one. I left the old lower one in there. There wasn't much left of it but I didn't try to dig it out. Mine has been fine.
@@johnaclark1 thank you
the new bearing and seal kits only have 2 seals for the top - 1 below the bearing and 1 above the bearing with the grease groove on the inside of the seal...
Thank you so much, I will put my tools together and fix the washer machine, excellent video, gracias.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Really good video , I like that you didn’t include disassembly and went for the repair, Thanks
I included the major disassembly. I figure if individuals don’t know how to gain access to the motor and transmission and disconnect the water pump and all the simple steps they really shouldn’t be going for replacing the seals. Thanks for watching I appreciate your support. Stay safe my friend.
Thank you. Im new to repairing washing machines and this was very helpful.
Great to hear. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Stay safe.
Thanks for the great video, it's very helpful.
But my 25 year old Kenmore is leaking. I'll check it out, but if it's not a simple problem like the drain pump, then I'll
just buy a new washer. Too much work even for a mechanical person like me. I have also read that newer machines are more energy efficient.
A+ on that vid and how it was all handled. It seemed shorter than it was because it was hustled along and there was no extra dwelling and repeating like some irritating vids.
Shakdi Dagalimal - Wow what a fabulous compliment. So you’re saying you didn’t look at your watch during the whole movie. Lol. Thank you so much, I’m glad the video was helpful and not boring and dragging. I do work hard at editing to try to keep all my videos entertaining, short and to the point as there’s nothing worse then dragging on and on. Thank you for watching. Stay safe and healthy!!! All the Best-
My tub action seems okay and I recently removed the tub and did a complete tub cleaning, however I noticed what looks like oil residue on the floor under the unit. Does the transmission have an oil seal?
Thanks so much for your video ! I will repair my washer tomorrow,and I hope at the end no leftovers parts.
Left over parts always happens. The older appliances are overbuilt. Maybe that is why they last so much longer. You'll do just fine. Stay safe!
Very informative. The best yet!
Thank you for the awesome comment. Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. Warmly…
Thank you. I was going through the process of elimination to stop my washer from leaking and I didn't think about the seals. Parts are on order. Thank you.
futurehunter - sorry it’s was the seals. Never the easy tub seal!!! Good luck, take your time. It’ll work out great. Thank you for watching.
@@SmokinwithKasket ,, My Whirlpool is dripping when in motion only. Is it the shaft seal ? Shouldn't the tube seal leak even when the machine is off once water is in the machine ?
Try filling the water level to a low setting. Run it. If no leak then raise the level higher. I still suspect the seals. Mine leaked only on motion. If no leak on low water level but a leak on high water level that’s fir sure your seals!
@@SmokinwithKasket ,, Once it is running it leaks.... Whether low or high on water level. The thing is it does not leak if I manually filled it .
Thanks again for responding. Blessings
Great video! Thanks for your hard work and advice! We have the same washer as you have kenmore elite and our leak ended up being the hose where the water fills the washer up on top right at the hose conection but your info is so spot on for more serious stuff ! Thsnks again!
You are very lucky! My repairs are never simple. Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate your kind words. Stay safe!
Great explanation. I have the same problem with my Whirlpool washer and will fix it soon. Thanks a lot for the help.
Thank you for watching. Stay safe!!!
Aha! I need to do this even if I change my clutch. This is the real problem. Thanks for this video!
Would be good idea to change the clutch. It’s cheap and readily available. Like the good old days - changing the spark plugs and wires but not the cap & rotor.
@@SmokinwithKasket I just did. But I should change the gaskets as well. The motor was greasy and looks like there are soapy leaks.
Thank you for posting this video i was able to fix my washer from your information....god bless
Great to hear. I'm glad this video was helpful. Stay safe and healthy.
Thanks for the quick response William your answer put my concerns at ease , it ‘s not a hard washer to work on if your mechanical skilled thanks again .
Al Ward - Very true regarding the difficulty level. Thank you for watching my vids.
Thanks for the information. Mine is unfortunately from 2007 so the basket (brake) and transmission/shaft is coming in one piece. I don't want to hit the pry bar too hard but might need to. I put some pb blaster on the top seal so hopefully it goes all of the way down and lubricates the shaft.
EDIT: Finally got that sucker off. I had to use a pry-bar to get it off. It had a lot of soap build-up!
That was probably a smart move. Glad the video was helpful.
William you just saved my butt......thank you for the excellent video breakdown of the shaft seals!
Awesome!!! Thank you for watching in common. I’m glad it worked out.
Great video! My 1996 KitchenAid washer will leak about 1/2 cup of water … only when fill level is 7/8 filled or higher… not with smaller fill levels.. I’m assuming it’s the top transmission seal. Would you agree? By the way, I just replaced the neutral drain in the transmission and I’m wondering if removing and reinstalling the transmission somehow disturbed the seal because after that the leaking began.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I would agree with you 100% that disturbing those old seals has caused them to begin leaking. And also that’s a telltale sign that it’s the upper seal issue if your unit does not leak when you have a smaller load or a lower water level in it.
@@SmokinwithKasket Thank you kindly… I just ordered a new seal and will tackle this.
Great video! Very helpful. I'm working on my 15 year old Kenmore washer which stopped spinning and I went through living Hell trying to remove the spanner nut, drive block and the brake assembly because of all the built up gunk. I haven't found the cause of the "no spin" problem as yet but I'm thinking the brake tube locked up inside the drum as I had to knock the top of the transmission shaft to get it off but as it's totally disassembled, I'm going to change all the seals, clutch, braking system and do a overhaul of the transmission, all new parts. I couldn't find a video dealing with the seals until I came across yours. Thanks!! One other thing that you can maybe advise me on.....the inside of the tube of the tub and some parts of the outside under the agitator are showing a LOT of corrosion. Is it wise to try to use a rust remover and some scraping to get rid of some of the corrosion then give the cleaned tub a coat of primer and appliance white or should I just scrap the project and dump the washer? The drive block was actually seized into the top of the tub and I had to knock it down the tub shaft with a large socket and an extension because of the amount of corrosion inside. What do you think? Yea or nay?
My deepest apologies for not getting back with you sooner. With that amount of corrosion that you’re describing, I would recommend buying a new machine. As soon as you repair this one or if you’re able to repair this one it sounds like you’ll have trouble with other components including the frame. Or see if you can purchase the tube assembly that might be another option. Honestly I’m getting older and growing tired of working on things over and over and over. That’s why I suggest it might be time to purchase new. Since your this far into it though go ahead and proceed the repair but if you find yourself tearing this thing down more than once every two years or so I would dump it.
This is a great video. I appreciate you posting it.
This is is by far the best video ive seen for the direct drive washers. I have the same problem with my elite 80 series washer. Water is leaking down through the clutch assembly onto the transmisson which unfortunately got into the transmission and caused oil to leak all over the floor ruining the transmission. so I recently bought a new transmisson and replaced the lower and upper shaft seals along with the main tub seal and out everything back together thanks to this great video. Now having said all that i started a small load and noticed there was water dripping down the frame of the washer. So i dissasembled the washer again down to just the outer tub and noticed that if i just have enough water to cover the bottom main tub seal it does not leak but if i push down on the bottom of the outer tub a tiny bit acting like there is a large load of water the main tub seal leaks. Anyone have any ideas what i can do here? I was wondering do i have to use some sort of glue when installing the seal to make it water tight? Just wanted to mention this incase others are having the same issue as me and unfortunately replacing the seals didn't fix the issue I was having. So this also might be the problem to the water leak that you and others are having.
💯 Thanks for the video. 🤙 Good information in it. Step by step. 🔥 Got a project like this coming up.
Glad this was helpful for you.
Thsnk you got a good look at what needs to be done.
Awesome!!! Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for this video - great!- it’s funny we have an old kenmore washer that we love- it’s 18-19 years old and now seems to need a drum seal / bearing replacement but having problems finding parts- any idea where I could buy them?
Wow! thank you for this, I have a 20 year old washer that the motor still sounds good and is leaking water too. I am going to have to try to do this procedure on it. you did a very good job in explaining each step. Thanks again.
Thank you. I always wonder if I failed to explain myself when doing these types of videos. Thank you for the feedback. Hope this helped your situation. All the Best-
Check out my channel for Dryer repairs 👍
@@carmac1652 - Nice channel. You definitely deserve way more views and subscribers. Keep the great videos coming and your numbers will rise!!! I am amazed by the growth of my channel. All the Best-
Old video but people like me are still trying to do this repair. When I looked on appliance parts pros the installation video shows there are 2 seals for the top of the spin tube. Looks like you only replaced one but apparently it worked. WP91939 is the part you changed but underneath it is another seal WP356427.
Excellent instructional video. Clear, concise and detailed. Thank you for making this video it was very helpful. My question is how do you resolve the issue of the drive block to tight on the drive tube? Both parts are brand new. I don't think you should force block to seat in the tube. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Hi Khan. Thank you for the awesome review. Much appreciated and I’m glad the video was helpful. To answer your question about the drive block, if I’m understanding correctly, just tighten the spanner nut down nice and firm. This will force both parts to seat correctly and securely, especially if they are new. Hope this helped. Stay safe and healthy. All the Best-
@@SmokinwithKasket Most instructional video regarding this type of repair shows that the drive block just simply sliding into the drive tube. In my case , the block doesn't seem to fit into the new drive tube. Even though they are the correct parts. I've tried sanding the inside wall of the block just to remove a little of material but to no avail. So I ended up polishing and using the old drive block with the new drive tube. Thank you for your response.
Sorry to hear you had such problems. Things never seems to go easy. Glad you figured out a solution. I can’t figure why the two parts wouldn’t seat correctly. Hopefully someone knowledgeable with this specific issue will see this post and offer an explanation. Best Wishes.
@@SmokinwithKasket After market item? I try to buy OEM when possible - it is definitely worth it to repair the washer right the first time around.
@@khantutan825 I turned the old drive block upside down and pounded on it to drift the new block into place.
The Puller worked easily to pull the inner drum and spanner nut. Thanks for the tip.
Great to hear. Glad to have helped.
Thanks for posting this video. Most helpful.
Great to hear it was helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting. Stay safe!!!
What is that cloth belt around the outside clutch? Ggreat video
There is no cloth belt. You may be seeing part of the chassis.
Good video and I appreciate the information. Did I miss it where you added any oil or grease back into the transmission case before reassembly? Mine had slung a good amount out in the bottom, which is what ultimately caused the clutch to slip. I'm just wondering what I need to stick back in there before reassembly. Any ideas?
Awesome video, my friend, this is the same for coin op whirlpools. 👍
Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate your positive support. Stay safe.
Thank you for this video. It help me learn where to fix the leak. I have a question that I hope you don't mind answering because it would cost some money to fix it. I have 2006 whirlpool direct drive just like yours. Well, I never tried or seen how new HE washing machines they now sell in Lowes or Home Depot, but not sure if I should get a new one because I don't know if it clean the clothes as good as the old one. Please let me know. Thanks.
good day, nice video, I pulled my old reliable apart and replaced the upper and lower seals plus the tub one, fired it up and guess what , still leaks :(, I noticed while I was down there looking for the leak that the noise it makes with the agitator seemed little odd, pulled it back apart and I can wiggle the shaft that goes though the lower seal, is there a bearing or bushing below that lower seal?, can't find anything online for parts?, is my unit trashed?, thanks for your time
There should be no play in that shaft. Especially since you replace the new seals. There is not a bushing or a bearing. At least not to my knowledge however, your model may be different. I would do some more research before I scrap the machine. My apologies. I don’t think I was much help here.
@@SmokinwithKasket I used all the part# you gave out, worked fine, I just found wp-8546455, looks like a bushing, one in the bottom and top, looks like im pulling the shaft apart now :( . I managed to take both seals out and install the new ones without taking the shaft apart by removing the tranny, no choice now, cheers
@@farmerrick9660 Thank you fir the follow up. So glad you figured that out. Bring new life to the old girl!!! Cheers to you!!!
William great video thanks for taking the time to make that video for the public you're a good man. Peace brother
Thank you for the kind words and support. Much appreciated. I hope this video was helpful. All the Best my friend!!!
I may have to do these seals and now know how. 👍
Buy two of each of the seals so you have second chance if you mess up the first try - they are not as easy to install as this video makes it look like if your washer is old. The top seal is the hardest to install.
I have a question. I have a Kenmore 80 series and as I was putting the motor back in this copper like pin with a small hole on the end fell out of something. Don't know where it came from. Do you know where the pin came from? Would like your advice. Thank you!
Hello and thank you for watching and commenting. That copper or brass looking pin which is about an inch and a half long is used for shipping purposes from the manufacturer to the retail store. No need to worry about the placement. It’s not needed. Hope this was helpful. Thank you for watching commenting and hopefully subscribing.
Thanks for the upload. I think i need a shaft seal. Can i get some help if i do mine?
Very good vid,your clutch lining has too much friction pads, is that a defect?.In Trinidad we get linings with three pads only.
It has to be different manufacturers. The original part had three pads if I remember correctly. All additional clutch units I’ve purchased had numerous friction pads like this. They work great!!!! Thank you fir watching.
Great video, my tub makes a lot of noise as it spins up then smooths out a little. Sound is louder if heavier load like jeans. Are there upper and lower tub bearings for the shaft or is this noise from a dirty clutch or both. The seals will be changed either way.
Awesome job!
thanks much for this video...really helped me pinpoint my washer leak, with an easy fix!!!
pnisakau Great to hear this helped. Thanks.
Brilliantly made repair video! Good pace, all the technical points covered, all part #'s called out!
QUESTION: Where to get that 1/16" socket or nut driver for the fill shut off level adjustment? I'm about to make a tool using an Alan capscrew that uses the 1/16" Alan wrench.
Thank you for the awesome comment and thank you for watching and subscribing. I think that tool that you’re making for the fill shut off level adjustment will work perfect. Check Amazon or a appliance supply company for that tool. Thank you again, Happy New Year and stay safe.
So I have a crack in the plastic tub. Are these still available, or should I try to seal it with some sort of epoxy?
I don’t think trying to seal the tub will be successful because of the continuous, flexing, even from the weight of the water coming in and draining. If you are unable to order that part, I would suggest as a last resort to try that.
Thank you sir so much, I needed this
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Any idea where to find the part # for one of the upper transmission seals? There's some oily residue so I'd like to replace them while I'm in there. The pinion gear in the trans that also has the 4 fingers that the clutch rides on. There's a small seal inside of the gear that seals against the main shaft. I removed it but there are no numbers anywhere. Guess I could take it to the local shop and have them match it up. But you seem super knowledgeable about these things so I figured you might have a break down parts list or something. Thanks
Any videos that show the complete breakdown? I need something that shows wires and all or I'll screw something up. Mine is a 110 something can't remember exactly it's one that has sensors. So it's not exact.
Hello. Thank you for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. I do not have a video of a complete breakdown for this unit. I’m sure there has to be a video that would be close to a complete breakdown for this or a similar unit.
Roughly how many hours did it take you to do the job? Was going to attempt mine at about 1:00 pm, but would that be something that you had better elect to start earlier in the morning if you want to be done with it by about 5 pm?
You’re looking at 3 hours or so.
Great video
Thank you for watching and commenting. Much appreciated.
You’ll have to pry my direct drive Whirlpool from my cold dead hands 😃. I even have an extra one and spare parts. I may be a little obsessive but deal with a new junk HE washer and you will see why.
After hearing the nightmares with the bug eyed front loaders, I started hitting up people for their " junk" washers abandoned in their back yards and picking them up in alleys or big item trash days. I built up a nice trade selling used direct drive Kenmore/Whirlpool machines. (The other brands too expensive to fix and much fewer used parts avail). $200 and 100 day warrenty plus I pay them $20 if they want to dispose of it afterward. I am actually out of business because I rarely find them any more. I kept 2 spares for me plus 2 gas dryers...no computer.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 I need to find someone like you who can salvage my 80 series washer. I don't want it scrapped! Any ideas? Northeast.
It's going to be a sad day when they phase these out, if they havent already...I am seeing dead 3-6 year old washers...they sell almost all junk now. What a waste...
@butchtropic Yup. The washer has been scrapped but the motor is up for takers. The scrap guy got here first, but I saved the motor. I hope someone will want it.
Yes I have a series 80 110 kenmore from 1992 just put seals in a month ago. These machines were quality
thanks for this instructions ,they helped me to disassemble and assemble it back putting all the springs in the way they should be ,definitively well explained and detailed ,as we need all ..........
Awesome. I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful. Thank you for your support my friend.