Ehy, warning! Every time you drain fluid from something with a separate (bottom) drainplug and "fill plug" (differential, gearbox etc)- ALWAYS make sure you loosen up the fill port - BEFORE the drain port! If you open the drain at the bottom, drain all the fluid, and /then/ find out you can't get the fill plug loose/out - you're in for a very bad day.
what id do is put a ball valve on the bottom and get the gear oil on top of the diff so gravity fills it i measure the oil put a little extra fill it than close the valve
Well for example for the trans you could always fill through the gear shifter, as for the diff you could fill it through the pumpkin by the drive shaft always around the plug
This was better than the engine mount video which had stilted cuts from one step to the other without showing your work/how to do it. This was very helpful!
Just a general tip as well, always break your fill bolt lose first! That way you know you can refill your diff, so you can drive your car somewhere to get a better tool for more leverage etc if you can't loosen the drain. Great video!
I have to say this is the one channel that I check everyday after school. Your videos help a lot with some of the more complex projects for these cars! Thanks so much for all you do!
I have been watching your videos for quite some time now but never commented so I will now, I'm not a Miata man but your vids and the way you take your time and explain what you are doing is awesome every Miata owner should follow you and they would learn so much, you are the Miata man in my opinion
Finally replacing these as well! Found that cutting the sleeve for 1/5 worked really well! Just drive a screwdriver in-between the cut part of the sleeve and the housing, and it just pops out
You keep mentioning they help everything not torque over as much, but in my experience the motor mounts solved that, the diff bushings helped most with wheel hop and a little smoother drifting/sliding. Great video!
LOL im not implying your not big already, i love your channel man I'm buying a miata soon to turbo. But the videos that gets the most views have the words "ricer" or "ricing out my car" in it and most people are looking to laugh at dumb childish jokes(car stuff) or see cars get destroyed, other then to sit and listen to and intelligent person talk about how to properly work on a car. if you don't feel "big"enough as a fan i can give you tips to try and get more views/ attention -my rant
Aawe Ewaa Nope, I know exactly what you're talking about. And I can tell you that my channel will never be like that, I wouldn't change my style just to get bigger. I just really like teaching people about the things I know about and like getting all of the positive response. A few thousand devoted enthusiasts is way better than a hundred thousand trolls. The channel is growing slowly and that gives me a chance to see all of my comments and respond to a lot of them as well as direct messages, snapchats, etc which I really like. I'm all about keeping it fun and interactive!
im glad you see it that way, theres nothing wrong with trying to appeal to the mass youtube car community for likes or views. you dedicate a lot of time to do what you do almost anything you work on a car your taking time to film it all and make sure conditions are good enough for the camera( not even mentioning editing) but i love your videos man you, MCM, engineering explained are my top. when i get another car to work on(miata) i will make videos too purely for how to work on the car :D
Wish I would have watched this earlier, as I just bought Mazdaspeed bushings. As with all of Greg's vids this one is Very Useful!!! (as well as well done) I am Very Grateful to Greg for his hard work and Outstanding info! 5 stars!
Thanks for this clear and informative video. I feel a bit of slop in my drive train and since there have never been any bushings replaced, possibly I need to replace some bushings. You are good at presentations and public speaking!
@ Greg I also removed upper pressed spacers , cuz everything was rusted and it was easier. BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mazda manual says you basically ruined your ppf by removing two inserts and now you need new one....those two inserts need to stay in ppf. Its a little harder to remove diff correctly. So good tutorial video...but you should mention this or add a text in a video at 3:50 mark...its not very likely that you will damage the splines on inserts, but that can happen, and it happend to quite a few people....and after that you basically need new ppf.My advice would be to use little blue loctite on those inserts, a be careful when pressing them in. I did a nut and bolt miata restoration so i know a few little things where you need to be careful.Other than that keep on.... great videos :)
+Luka Matijašević Thanks man, that's why I like to put in some of my videos that I'm not a professional! I've added an annotation to the video and will add the information in the description as well.
+TheCarPassionChannel If you did it like this two times...which i guess you did (you swaped vlsd for torsen) it wuold be good to mark bolt and inserts position, and inspect it once a while. And since the car is boosted, ppf could go wrong earlier :)
I drilled the centers out, then took a flat head, hammered it straight down the seam which caused one side to fold in, then the halves popped out with one tap. Didn't even mar up the housing.
Two things I did different.. Leave the one piece axles in and drop the whole thing. And get an actual chisel about 10 inches.. And a 5 pound sledge took 10ish hits maybe and didn't have to drill out anything..
I was wondering how someone was going to have to deal with this. Miata also had one of the bushings purposely softer than the other. This was done so that when you lean into a turn inside rear tire actually rotates slightly into the turn also. The transmission to differntial brace stopped the problem due to power being applied but the purposeful soft bushing was an ingenious handling design.
+Casey Lockwood Engine mounts will be very soon. I will show the installation of the turbo manifold on B&B which will be basically identical to a header install.
I think I just need to stop doing upgrades until you do a video about installing them lol Tip that I recommend is to remove your fill bolt BEFORE you remove your drain bolt. The two main things this does is make sure that you're able to fill the differential back up again, and it also allows you to drain the diff quicker and more smoothly.
+Ross Smith Yeah this has been mentioned a few times and is a really good idea! Worst case scenario you could fill it through an axle hole. Not as accurate, but it would work okay.
So I recently got a hard top and I've been getting wind noise through the driver side window (vertical side). Wanted to know if you've experienced this before or any other sorts of noise with a hard top. Great video btw. I have notifications turned on for your channel so I never miss one. 👍
Hey I watched your garage star thermostat sandwich review and I am very curious on how to wire it. I've searched everywhere on youtube and I can't find any videos on how to actually wire a sensor and get power to the gauge in the engine bay. I think a video of this would be very helpful to people who want to purchase that product ( and me ) haha
When you reinstalled, what did you set your ppf measurements to? Ever since I installed my diff bushings I get horrible vibs at 80+ and I'm wondering if it's because of how thick the top of the bushings are....that would make the diff sit lower there for increasing the drive shaft angle....
Hey man, love your videos! Could you do a video on how to install and adjust a hardtop properly? Mine is letting air in on the highway and makes quite a lot of noise when driving over bumps which is quite annoying🙄 thanks mate✌️
what coilovers & spring rates are you running . & how is the N.V.H with that coil over & spring rate set-up on the street Brilliant car ! Thanks for posting Sincerely , Frank
I am also thinking of going Rotrex but I would have to upgrade Clutch , engine mounts & diff . bushings etc. & im not sure I'm ready to do all that yet . We'll see ? . But it would be stealthy quiet & confuse & embarrass a few faster cars Lol Did you ever ride in or drive a Rotrex Miata ? Or know anyone who owns one ? Thanks Bro You have a well sorted MX-5 ! Brilliant job !
+mindyourspine Not with the GS bushings. They keep the stock rubber ring things on the bottom, and I think that's why there's not a big increase in noise. I have a friend who had delrin diff bushings that were solid mount and he said it would rattle his brain, he went to ES bushings or something else.
+TheCarPassionChannel I'm looking into a 1.8 diff and have a good deal on the whole carriage, subframe, axels, driveshaft, suspension and brakes. All together for 200 out of a 1996. How do I know for sure its a torsen lsd before I buy it and put it in the car? I'm also following Broke and Boosted and doing a budget turbo build myself! Always waiting for your next episode!
I have a question. Do these delrin mounts use a lower one as well or just the stock lower portion? I know some have the upper and lower delrin which you then have to remove some rubber from the stick lower mount.
i know this is an old video but a trick for getting one piece axles out, because sometimes the circlips are pretty well at home in there. Take a large box end wrench and put the outer jaw on the axle lip then use the sidemost blade/fin of the diff as a pivot to lever the axle out. Way less effort than using screwdrivers sometimes. Or maybe you're like me and are too lazy to get up off the floor to go get them and use whatever's in reach.
Tried going on to GarageStar's website, but I get a connection error, saying to be sure the link is correct. Did a search on them as well, and get the same error message. Did they change their website address? No longer in business? Great video as usual, and yes I am years behind all your videos, just starting to get interested in obtaining a Miata and tinkering with it.
+ErbiRacing Well, I don't really get much wheelspin to begin with so it's tough to say. Also, with this much power, and tires as sticky as mine, wheel hop kinda likes to explode transmissions, so I drive to avoid it as much as I can, haha.
Sorry dude I know I asked a spacer question on one of your last videos...but in this one I got eyes on 'em...when you purchased yours, did they come with lugs or did you have to buy separate? Or, if you have a link to your setup that would be killer...love the look. Keep up the good work man.
+Griffin Booher They came studded, with lugs, in the Miata bore size so they're hubcentric as well. I also have the rings that match them up to the wheel so the whole system is hubcentric. I bought them locally off of a company called VMR Wheels that my friend works at, but any reputable company that wells spacers should be selling a quality product.
Hello! Getting ready to do the shift assy rebuild in one of your previous videos. What oil do you recommend I use to replace the current crap fluid in there?
Cool video, I'm subscribing to help you grow man, I just started youtube'ing and is currently working on my Toyota Mr2 (which I bought instead of the mx5 miata)! I'm trying to to as much of a serious fun interactive channel as I can and not like those "ricing my car" sort of videos! :)
Hey man, what exhaust are you running on the car? Do you have any dB ratings at your local autocross that you have to adhere to? I need to keep mine below 92dB and doing that straight piped has been deemed a failure. I wouldn't mind just getting a small inline muffler like you did and fab up something myself.
+NA6 driver Yeah I think ours is 92dB as well, I've never had a problem being too loud. Turbocharger works as a muffler by itself and then I have the Dynomax muffler too.
TheCarPassionChannel Great to hear. Even with the turbo on my car leading to a 3" dump it's about 98dB. I may get away with it a few times but I would hate to DNF any sound ordinance runs. Hope you are able to stay in budget with B&B. I did it as cheap and reliably as I could and just about crested 2k, over 2k if you include the DIYPNP. I could have cut a few corners though, like no Inconel studs or DIY coolant reroute. Keep up the good work man.
Greg i have a question that bothered me for a while and i thought maybe you would know. So i want an NA miata badly, but the problem is there arent any in my country, but there is plenty of NBs and i heard that NBs are pretty good and that they dont rust so easilly. And also from what i have seen so far the chassis seems pretty similar. Do you think it would be possible to put NA miata front on NB? Is the front clip any similar?
+Martin Bernath That might be a lot of work... I really don't know how possible it is but it sure would be crazy! I definitely want to see it if you do it.
This is a little off topic for this video, but I had trouble finding your coilover video so here's my question: How is it daily driving with your coilovers? I have been kicking around getting new coils but am worried that I'll hate it as a DD. Thanks for any info!
+Mathew Brady I actually haven't done the coilover videos yet. I do DD on them, you can get get a setup that rides pretty nice, but just know that they will be stiffer than a stock setup. I heard the FM V-Maxx can be setup very daily friendly.
+TheCarPassionChannel will you be giving any advice on how to set up coils to be daily friendly? I don't know much about suspension adjustment yet, but I'm hoping to learn because coilovers would be dope for autocross.
Mathew Brady The only problem with giving advice on being DD friendly, is everyone has a different idea of what that is. I'm thinking 80% of Miata owners would not consider my car DD friendly, haha. But I love it. I'd recommend driving/riding in another Miata with coilovers and that might help you make a decision.
+TheCarPassionChannel I do have plans to when summer rolls around. I met a guy at the last autocross with a turbo setup and megan coilovers that im itching to test drive. Anyway thanks for answering! Love the channel and I'm following Broke and Boosted closely!
I have a question, Greg... If I wanted to get these right now with the open diff I have currently, but later on down the road when I am doing my K20 swap, I am going to have to put a solid differential in there then the stock one.... Can I re-use these bushings for when that happens?
How reliable is the B&B going to be? Because I'd rather spend less money and do what you're doing but I'm also considering the voodoo 2 kit and begi shanghai S kit. Thanks if you respond!
+Aidan Morris Well, if I can get it tuned well, it will be reliable, but that will be the challenge. There are many others that have done what I'm doing so it's not really sketchy or anything if you do it "right." If you want 200+whp and maximum reliability and safety, I would advise starting out with Megasquirt in the first place.
I have a mint , one owner low mileage adult owned Florida car . From the day she bought it new , she parked it in her living room , next to her television with a custom cover on it , To my advantage ! Anyway its my weekend canyan carver . And all iv'e done so far is Joungbloud 15×7 30 offset with 185-50-15 Dunlop Direzza 102's they come right out to the lips on the fenders & 1/4 panels , withoug rolling the fenders , even if I slammed it ( that will never happen ) smother ride , tires are noiseless . Fantastic traction on the street & great in the wet & under braking . Bought aftermarket coilovers & sold them before installing . I went with Koni yellows , FCMBump kit and Racing beat springs . paid $415 for all . Brian Goodwin suggested this set up since I daily it . Racing Beat front springs 20 percent rate increase 1. 5 " drop . Racing beat rears springs 30 percent increase 1"drop the Koni yellow jpwer spring perches have 3 height settings top one is stock setting , the second is 94 -96? " R" spec . & third lowest is about an inch OR MORE from stock setting Goodwin recommended the middle or "R" spec perch setting . That should take almost all the fender gap out of my suspension , will ride well on Connecticut roads , still have enough ground clearance , handle better & with Koni yellows set soft at first shoud make for a decent daily driver . Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated Especially if you know someone who runs this set up . Thanks Sincerely , Frank from CT. former SCCA & IMSA mazda factory backed Endurance & sprint racer . Connecticut , Were the roads can be like a rally stage ! HeHe
Hopefully you can answer my question before I figure out how to do it myself but. I currently have a 1990 1.6l na miata and i also have a 1994 1.8l na mazda miata. ive been swapping part from my 1.8 to 1.6 and recently ive installed my torsen lsd into my 1.6 miata. I have everything mounted into the car so far except for the axles. Reason for not have the axles in is because for some reason the "slide in" 1 peace axles wont slide into the diff. I think its because they have the little ring on the end of it and it wont push threw passed it but still would like to hear if you have ran into the same problem
hey mate. did you bushes not come with a bottom part? my bushes were 2 piece and I had to remove the rubber off of the disc mount plate things great video though.
+Project miata mx5 eunos roadster Not with the GS bushings. They keep the stock rubber ring things on the bottom, and I think that's why there's not a big increase in noise. I have a friend who had delrin diff bushings that were solid mount and he said it would rattle his brain, he went to ES bushings or something else.
I see. Thanks for the fast reply. I have the super pro ones and had to cut the robber off. I only have a tiny bit of a rumble at about 4k but I think that might even be down to me not lining up the ppf correctly. Can't wait to see how to change engine mounts though as I think il do that before fitting the turbo.
for sure, i am just trying to eliminate my axle tramp as well. i dont have much in the way of shifter movement like you did in your car but when u blip the throttle a bit it does have this odd moment of play. Keep up the good videos, im hooked! im working on a few videos myself of my project.
I used prothane bushings since those are the ones moss has, and I did everything in this video (thank you btw) but I hear a clunking noise coming from the back when i accelerate, anyone have any idea why?
So I just did the same thing to my car however now in neutral if I rev the car it shakes is this because the solid diff bushings took out the slop and the worn motor mounts are more noticeable?
TheCarPassionChannel also how can you tell which NVH is caused by the delrin bushings and which are caused from other things? At 75mph there's a noticeable vibration (even more so) and it will shake the tach needle up and down. Also I have a whirring noise at low rpms in the city is that normal? Thanks
It seems like a lot of work trying to pry that metal sleeve out of the diff carrier. Why not take a socket and hammer it out like the bearings? Better yet, invest in a 6 ton H frame press?
Hey Greg, not bringing up at 3 y/o video to annoy you but I did this bushing job to my car about 2 or so months ago, put everything back together and thought I was good. Turns out I dont have my axles all the way in and my diff leaks horribly and I cant seem to get them to fit in any advice would be great!
You have to give them a good shove to get the clips to pop into place usually. The leak might be from the axles not being seated, or you might need new seals which are very easy to replace. If you just take out the 14mm bolt that holds the upper rear control arm to the hub, and loosen the long bolt in the bottom of the hub (so the hub can pivot) you can swing the upper arm out of the way and use the hub itself like a big slide hammer to bash the axle into place. It takes a little force sometimes but they should pop in all the way.
@@TheCarPassionChannel thanks for the response, I prematurely replaced the seals before I realized that the axles weren't in place so that's already done I guess I'll go at it again, already tried the hub method and the mallet method maybe I'm being too nice to it LOL
dude you've got/had a na/mk1 with the 6 speed with the 3.9/1 final drive rocking 250bhp right? and ultimately this is my goal, but I've just found the crown/pinion for the 3.64/1 ratio diff and I'm considering getting it as i know it'll drop my wheel torque a bit and make it a little less savage when the boost hits but as mine ain't boosted yet i have no idea what it'll be like when the boost hits and the parts are pretty cheap, basically I'd love your opinion on if it'd be a waste of money or not when i could put it towards my me221 ECU instead
I had a 5-speed with the 3.9 at 276whp which was perfect in my opinion. In my new setup I'll have the 6-speed with the 3.636, which I still think will be too short, but better than the 3.9.
TheCarPassionChannel honestly I'm not really looking for the top end...i would love to see it go off the clock though just for the bucket list lol, there's a place in the UK that does final drives but they're mainly for the stock setup and go upto 4:9 ratio
I didn't really get the 3.6 for top speed either, but extending the lower gears makes a huge difference. I'm going to have a ton of power in the mid range, but if the gears are super short you just waste all your time shifting and end up at 5500+ after each shift.
TheCarPassionChannel have you managed to find the sequential gear boxes on eBay yet they popped up not to long ago but all the ratios are a lot lower from what i remember, shame they're like £9,000 because I'd love one but i cant justify/afford one
+lance thurmond Yes the process of dropping the diff will be nearly the same, actually a little easier since the 1.6L diff is lighter, and has 2-piece axles so you can just unbolt them.
+J3n555 It depends on what you're trying to achieve. I wanted to do diff mounts first because they're less aggressive. I will be doing motor mounts very soon which I'll be doing a video on and explaining what type of mounts are best for racing/daily etc.
+TheCarPassionChannel Great! I feel alot of jerkiness when in first and second gear. Im planning on fixing up my driveline bushings and a new shifter rebuild kit.
TheCarPassionChannel thanks for the response man - but I was asking WHY you unbolted the drive shaft from the diff before pulling the CV axles! I just replaced my CV axles and I didn’t unbolt the drive shaft, and it went fine
@@jtfoog5220 You don't need to unbolt the driveshaft to replace the CV's. You do need to unbolt the driveshaft to remove the diff. Well technically you don't, but it's much more convenient.
Hey man, first of all sweet little miata, very sexy :) anyways I have a couple of questions. I'm going to get my driver license around may this year and I've been thinking about getting a manual miata as my first car since they seem to be pretty reliable.I live in Canada and winter can be quite rough (half a year) do you think it can survive it quite easily? Also will insurences be too expensive for a full time student with a part-time job? Thank you reading this sorry it's quite long but I'm kinda new to the whole car scene and I don't have many very reliable sources :(. Hope to see an answer soon :) also subbed!
+SupraCapo12 I've never driven my Miata in the snow since we don't have snow here, but I know a lot of people do. That's a hard question for me to answer since I don't have any experience with it. I know compared to other cars, the Miata insurance is pretty cheap at least in the U.S. so I think you'd be able to afford it. You can go online to insurance sites and get free quotes so you know how much you can expect to pay.
Yeah I leave my Miata outside...I just got my hardtop stolen and the driver side window busted. Make sure to get hardtop security if you got one. Me and two other guys got their tops stolen the same night
Thanks for taking the time to do this as always! Thoughts on swapping open diff out for a welded...? (1.8 1997) daily driver too... I'm about 35for 65against atm... Drue
+Drue Steele If you're the loud exhaust/6-puck clutch/stiff coilovers type of guy, go for it, you'll love it. If you're the type to worry about how loud the exhaust is how low the car is for daily driving, you'll probably hate it. Welded diffs are hard to park with and sketchy in the rain, but a perfect budget solution for drifting. If you have the money, a Torsen swap will perform better for grip applications, and a CLSD will be better for drifting.
Removing the old diff bushing makes me want to eat mountains of day old taco bell for breakfast and then sit through a 3 year old's my little pony birthday party WITH NO ACCESS TO A BATHROOM.
+zj120cn To be honest I was not expecting a huge difference, I filmed the diff itself rocking and I knew it didn't have a lot of slop compared to the engine/trans, but in my opinion it was definitely worth the upgrade as I hardly notice any difference in noise.
zj120cn I actually just started a new shorter work schedule which will leave me more time for videos! I had a B&B episode planned over the weekend but I hit some snags so I couldn't do it.
+TheCarPassionChannel Okay I get it. Are you thinking about getting a Racing Beat rear cannon brace? Or is the exhaust routing not compatible with the brace. Or do you just not care about a rear cannon brace.
Love how your videos from 5 years ago are helping me with just about everything on my Miata in 2021.
Dude this is seriously the most helpful TH-cam channel I’ve ever experienced
Yup by far
6 years ago, your channel has come so far, but your old content still delivers. Got the info I needed, and got some good bloopers at the end 😂
put the bushings in the freezer, to shrink them and they will almost just push in buy hand
Ehy, warning! Every time you drain fluid from something with a separate (bottom) drainplug and "fill plug" (differential, gearbox etc)- ALWAYS make sure you loosen up the fill port - BEFORE the drain port! If you open the drain at the bottom, drain all the fluid, and /then/ find out you can't get the fill plug loose/out - you're in for a very bad day.
what id do is put a ball valve on the bottom and get the gear oil on top of the diff so gravity fills it i measure the oil put a little extra fill it than close the valve
Could always tip the car upside down...
Well for example for the trans you could always fill through the gear shifter, as for the diff you could fill it through the pumpkin by the drive shaft always around the plug
This was better than the engine mount video which had stilted cuts from one step to the other without showing your work/how to do it. This was very helpful!
Just a general tip as well, always break your fill bolt lose first! That way you know you can refill your diff, so you can drive your car somewhere to get a better tool for more leverage etc if you can't loosen the drain. Great video!
I have to say this is the one channel that I check everyday after school. Your videos help a lot with some of the more complex projects for these cars! Thanks so much for all you do!
Hello Chris
@@ClarkMerrick blast from the past damn
I have been watching your videos for quite some time now but never commented so I will now, I'm not a Miata man but your vids and the way you take your time and explain what you are doing is awesome every Miata owner should follow you and they would learn so much, you are the Miata man in my opinion
+Vince Stewart Welcome to the comments section =D. I appreciate the feedback!
This channel has been my miata bible for years now. Thanks again.
So draining the diff... not needed for this job, but since you're playing with it change your diff oil while your there?
Finally replacing these as well! Found that cutting the sleeve for 1/5 worked really well! Just drive a screwdriver in-between the cut part of the sleeve and the housing, and it just pops out
You keep mentioning they help everything not torque over as much, but in my experience the motor mounts solved that, the diff bushings helped most with wheel hop and a little smoother drifting/sliding. Great video!
your channel's gonna blow up soon, I can see it
+Nate Morris sadly people want entertainment and not actual mechanic information
+Aawe Ewaa So what you're saying is, if I start doing hack jobs and street hooning, I'll get big? :) Too bad for me!
LOL im not implying your not big already, i love your channel man I'm buying a miata soon to turbo. But the videos that gets the most views have the words "ricer" or "ricing out my car" in it and most people are looking to laugh at dumb childish jokes(car stuff) or see cars get destroyed, other then to sit and listen to and intelligent person talk about how to properly work on a car. if you don't feel "big"enough as a fan i can give you tips to try and get more views/ attention
-my rant
Aawe Ewaa Nope, I know exactly what you're talking about. And I can tell you that my channel will never be like that, I wouldn't change my style just to get bigger. I just really like teaching people about the things I know about and like getting all of the positive response. A few thousand devoted enthusiasts is way better than a hundred thousand trolls. The channel is growing slowly and that gives me a chance to see all of my comments and respond to a lot of them as well as direct messages, snapchats, etc which I really like. I'm all about keeping it fun and interactive!
im glad you see it that way, theres nothing wrong with trying to appeal to the mass youtube car community for likes or views. you dedicate a lot of time to do what you do almost anything you work on a car your taking time to film it all and make sure conditions are good enough for the camera( not even mentioning editing) but i love your videos man you, MCM, engineering explained are my top. when i get another car to work on(miata) i will make videos too purely for how to work on the car :D
Just ordered mine few days ago..changing my diff (4.3 to 4.1 on 5speed) so thought this is best time to do it. Thanks for showing how to do it.
Wish I would have watched this earlier, as I just bought Mazdaspeed bushings. As with all of Greg's vids this one is Very Useful!!! (as well as well done) I am Very Grateful to Greg for his hard work and Outstanding info!
5 stars!
You are awsome for showing the step where you pop the axles into the diff. I thought my axle was busted until I saw your video.
Thanks for this clear and informative video. I feel a bit of slop in my drive train and since there have never been any bushings replaced, possibly I need to replace some bushings. You are good at presentations and public speaking!
Bummer that GarageStar went under. The link no longer works. Still a great video to show the process! Dude your videos helped me so much!
Day feels complete, been waiting to watch this all day.
@ Greg I also removed upper pressed spacers , cuz everything was rusted and it was easier. BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mazda manual says you basically ruined your ppf by removing two inserts and now you need new one....those two inserts need to stay in ppf. Its a little harder to remove diff correctly. So good tutorial video...but you should mention this or add a text in a video at 3:50 mark...its not very likely that you will damage the splines on inserts, but that can happen, and it happend to quite a few people....and after that you basically need new ppf.My advice would be to use little blue loctite on those inserts, a be careful when pressing them in. I did a nut and bolt miata restoration so i know a few little things where you need to be careful.Other than that keep on.... great videos :)
+Luka Matijašević Thanks man, that's why I like to put in some of my videos that I'm not a professional! I've added an annotation to the video and will add the information in the description as well.
Didnt bother to look time difference beetwen usa and germany so you have almost the same message on facebook..haha
you can easily miss a comment here
+TheCarPassionChannel
If you did it like this two times...which i guess you did (you swaped vlsd for torsen) it wuold be good to mark bolt and inserts position, and inspect it once a while. And since the car is boosted, ppf could go wrong earlier :)
what is the proper way to remove the ppf then?
Excellent video man! Makes me miss my miata, I moved onto a e36 M3, but the miata project days were good ones! I wish I had my channel back then!
I'd just made an order for these and the delrin door bushings, may take a while as I'm living in Sweden.
I love your channel!
I drilled the centers out, then took a flat head, hammered it straight down the seam which caused one side to fold in, then the halves popped out with one tap. Didn't even mar up the housing.
i’ve been hammering a flat head for over 3 hours and i barely have a centimeter of the bushing out. kill me.
@@seancutick559 did you drill it first?
installed these along with a Miata roadster shifter, well worth the effort!
thank you so much for this info!! i will be getting engine mounts, tranny mount and snub mount, and rear diff mount for my b5 a4
Thanks. This has to be one of the best TH-cam vids I've seen
Excellent how to. Job well done! I recently performed the same mod and your directions helped immensely. Keep this up!
Nice Merc Wagon at 0:08
Great diy man I'm a Vw guy but still enjoyed watching this video. oh yea and I herd a mint r32 pass by when you were putting the diff back in 👌
Two things I did different.. Leave the one piece axles in and drop the whole thing. And get an actual chisel about 10 inches.. And a 5 pound sledge took 10ish hits maybe and didn't have to drill out anything..
I was wondering how someone was going to have to deal with this. Miata also had one of the bushings purposely softer than the other. This was done so that when you lean into a turn inside rear tire actually rotates slightly into the turn also. The transmission to differntial brace stopped the problem due to power being applied but the purposeful soft bushing was an ingenious handling design.
Yet another awesome video. Are you going to do an engine mount video? Perhaps a header install video? Both would be awesome to see!
+Casey Lockwood Engine mounts will be very soon. I will show the installation of the turbo manifold on B&B which will be basically identical to a header install.
I think I just need to stop doing upgrades until you do a video about installing them lol
Tip that I recommend is to remove your fill bolt BEFORE you remove your drain bolt. The two main things this does is make sure that you're able to fill the differential back up again, and it also allows you to drain the diff quicker and more smoothly.
+Ross Smith Yeah this has been mentioned a few times and is a really good idea! Worst case scenario you could fill it through an axle hole. Not as accurate, but it would work okay.
So I recently got a hard top and I've been getting wind noise through the driver side window (vertical side).
Wanted to know if you've experienced this before or any other sorts of noise with a hard top. Great video btw. I have notifications turned on for your channel so I never miss one. 👍
Nice video as always man, I might have to pick up a set of these someday when I do the 1.8 Torsen into my 1.6
The ppf alignment should be checked after reassembly.
Hey I watched your garage star thermostat sandwich review and I am very curious on how to wire it. I've searched everywhere on youtube and I can't find any videos on how to actually wire a sensor and get power to the gauge in the engine bay. I think a video of this would be very helpful to people who want to purchase that product ( and me ) haha
Made it look easy!!! Awesome video man!!
Hey man this video helped me out a lot you made it look real easier then it actually was haha
When you reinstalled, what did you set your ppf measurements to? Ever since I installed my diff bushings I get horrible vibs at 80+ and I'm wondering if it's because of how thick the top of the bushings are....that would make the diff sit lower there for increasing the drive shaft angle....
Wpuld it be a good idea to drill and tap the bushing holes for a zerk fitting to prevent squeaks?
Hey man, love your videos! Could you do a video on how to install and adjust a hardtop properly? Mine is letting air in on the highway and makes quite a lot of noise when driving over bumps which is quite annoying🙄 thanks mate✌️
+Jonas Mink Yeah I want to do a video on how to rebuild the latches, I just did mine and it's so nice now.
what coilovers & spring rates are you running . & how is the N.V.H with that coil over & spring rate set-up on the street Brilliant car ! Thanks for posting Sincerely , Frank
Are you going to be going over the oil lines for the T25 install for B&B when you get to it? Another great video man! Keep them coming!
+Louis Benevides Yes I'll be going in detail on the oil and water line routing/sizes/etc.
Man im trying to find these bushings but cant seem to buy them any where 😑 & I just got the RX 7 FC housing done too...
I am also thinking of going Rotrex but I would have to upgrade Clutch , engine mounts & diff . bushings etc. & im not sure I'm ready to do all that yet . We'll see ? . But it would be stealthy quiet & confuse & embarrass a few faster cars Lol Did you ever ride in or drive a Rotrex Miata ? Or know anyone who owns one ? Thanks Bro You have a well sorted MX-5 ! Brilliant job !
Best teacher
Nice vid...per usual.
Did you have to burn off the rubber from the metal "ears" that retain the diff bushings?
+mindyourspine Not with the GS bushings. They keep the stock rubber ring things on the bottom, and I think that's why there's not a big increase in noise. I have a friend who had delrin diff bushings that were solid mount and he said it would rattle his brain, he went to ES bushings or something else.
+TheCarPassionChannel I'm looking into a 1.8 diff and have a good deal on the whole carriage, subframe, axels, driveshaft, suspension and brakes. All together for 200 out of a 1996. How do I know for sure its a torsen lsd before I buy it and put it in the car? I'm also following Broke and Boosted and doing a budget turbo build myself! Always waiting for your next episode!
Nice, loving the vids but need more broke and boosted! What size wheels and offsets are you using, any wheel spacers?
+Cellan Wilby 15x9 +36, plus 20mm spacers. So +16mm effective offset.
I have a question. Do these delrin mounts use a lower one as well or just the stock lower portion? I know some have the upper and lower delrin which you then have to remove some rubber from the stick lower mount.
These use the stock lower mounts, and that's probably the reason that there's barely any increase in vibration at all
i know this is an old video but a trick for getting one piece axles out, because sometimes the circlips are pretty well at home in there.
Take a large box end wrench and put the outer jaw on the axle lip then use the sidemost blade/fin of the diff as a pivot to lever the axle out. Way less effort than using screwdrivers sometimes.
Or maybe you're like me and are too lazy to get up off the floor to go get them and use whatever's in reach.
Tried going on to GarageStar's website, but I get a connection error, saying to be sure the link is correct. Did a search on them as well, and get the same error message.
Did they change their website address? No longer in business?
Great video as usual, and yes I am years behind all your videos, just starting to get interested in obtaining a Miata and tinkering with it.
I believe they're primarily only making seat rails now for various cars.
Noticed any difference in terms of wheel hop?
Awesome vid!
+ErbiRacing Well, I don't really get much wheelspin to begin with so it's tough to say. Also, with this much power, and tires as sticky as mine, wheel hop kinda likes to explode transmissions, so I drive to avoid it as much as I can, haha.
Sorry dude I know I asked a spacer question on one of your last videos...but in this one I got eyes on 'em...when you purchased yours, did they come with lugs or did you have to buy separate? Or, if you have a link to your setup that would be killer...love the look. Keep up the good work man.
+Griffin Booher They came studded, with lugs, in the Miata bore size so they're hubcentric as well. I also have the rings that match them up to the wheel so the whole system is hubcentric. I bought them locally off of a company called VMR Wheels that my friend works at, but any reputable company that wells spacers should be selling a quality product.
Hello! Getting ready to do the shift assy rebuild in one of your previous videos. What oil do you recommend I use to replace the current crap fluid in there?
+Chris Ahmed Any trans fluid will be fine, it's just to lubricate the shifter so there's not a lot of heat or stress.
Cool video, I'm subscribing to help you grow man, I just started youtube'ing and is currently working on my Toyota Mr2 (which I bought instead of the mx5 miata)! I'm trying to to as much of a serious fun interactive channel as I can and not like those "ricing my car" sort of videos! :)
Hey man, what exhaust are you running on the car? Do you have any dB ratings at your local autocross that you have to adhere to? I need to keep mine below 92dB and doing that straight piped has been deemed a failure. I wouldn't mind just getting a small inline muffler like you did and fab up something myself.
+NA6 driver Yeah I think ours is 92dB as well, I've never had a problem being too loud. Turbocharger works as a muffler by itself and then I have the Dynomax muffler too.
TheCarPassionChannel Great to hear. Even with the turbo on my car leading to a 3" dump it's about 98dB. I may get away with it a few times but I would hate to DNF any sound ordinance runs. Hope you are able to stay in budget with B&B. I did it as cheap and reliably as I could and just about crested 2k, over 2k if you include the DIYPNP. I could have cut a few corners though, like no Inconel studs or DIY coolant reroute. Keep up the good work man.
Greg i have a question that bothered me for a while and i thought maybe you would know. So i want an NA miata badly, but the problem is there arent any in my country, but there is plenty of NBs and i heard that NBs are pretty good and that they dont rust so easilly. And also from what i have seen so far the chassis seems pretty similar. Do you think it would be possible to put NA miata front on NB? Is the front clip any similar?
+Martin Bernath That might be a lot of work... I really don't know how possible it is but it sure would be crazy! I definitely want to see it if you do it.
This is a little off topic for this video, but I had trouble finding your coilover video so here's my question: How is it daily driving with your coilovers? I have been kicking around getting new coils but am worried that I'll hate it as a DD. Thanks for any info!
+Mathew Brady I actually haven't done the coilover videos yet. I do DD on them, you can get get a setup that rides pretty nice, but just know that they will be stiffer than a stock setup. I heard the FM V-Maxx can be setup very daily friendly.
+TheCarPassionChannel will you be giving any advice on how to set up coils to be daily friendly? I don't know much about suspension adjustment yet, but I'm hoping to learn because coilovers would be dope for autocross.
Mathew Brady The only problem with giving advice on being DD friendly, is everyone has a different idea of what that is. I'm thinking 80% of Miata owners would not consider my car DD friendly, haha. But I love it. I'd recommend driving/riding in another Miata with coilovers and that might help you make a decision.
+TheCarPassionChannel I do have plans to when summer rolls around. I met a guy at the last autocross with a turbo setup and megan coilovers that im itching to test drive. Anyway thanks for answering! Love the channel and I'm following Broke and Boosted closely!
I have a question, Greg... If I wanted to get these right now with the open diff I have currently, but later on down the road when I am doing my K20 swap, I am going to have to put a solid differential in there then the stock one.... Can I re-use these bushings for when that happens?
+Victor Pitts Yeah these bushings can be hit back out and put into another diff.
TheCarPassionChannel Sweet, thanks man. Ill be grabbing a set very soon.
Victor Pitts Don't forget the coupon code!
wow ricer alley was poppin in 2016
You're telling me!!!
How reliable is the B&B going to be? Because I'd rather spend less money and do what you're doing but I'm also considering the voodoo 2 kit and begi shanghai S kit. Thanks if you respond!
+Aidan Morris Well, if I can get it tuned well, it will be reliable, but that will be the challenge. There are many others that have done what I'm doing so it's not really sketchy or anything if you do it "right." If you want 200+whp and maximum reliability and safety, I would advise starting out with Megasquirt in the first place.
I have a mint , one owner low mileage adult owned Florida car . From the day she bought it new , she parked it in her living room , next to her television with a custom cover on it , To my advantage ! Anyway its my weekend canyan carver . And all iv'e done so far is Joungbloud 15×7 30 offset with 185-50-15 Dunlop Direzza 102's they come right out to the lips on the fenders & 1/4 panels , withoug rolling the fenders , even if I slammed it ( that will never happen ) smother ride , tires are noiseless . Fantastic traction on the street & great in the wet & under braking . Bought aftermarket coilovers & sold them before installing . I went with Koni yellows , FCMBump kit and Racing beat springs . paid $415 for all . Brian Goodwin suggested this set up since I daily it . Racing Beat front springs 20 percent rate increase 1. 5 " drop . Racing beat rears springs 30 percent increase 1"drop the Koni yellow jpwer spring perches have 3 height settings top one is stock setting , the second is 94 -96? " R" spec . & third lowest is about an inch OR MORE from stock setting Goodwin recommended the middle or "R" spec perch setting . That should take almost all the fender gap out of my suspension , will ride well on Connecticut roads , still have enough ground clearance , handle better & with Koni yellows set soft at first shoud make for a decent daily driver . Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated Especially if you know someone who runs this set up . Thanks Sincerely , Frank from CT. former SCCA & IMSA mazda factory backed Endurance & sprint racer . Connecticut , Were the roads can be like a rally stage ! HeHe
Great video! I'm so excited for this channel. Lol i broke my chisel.
Hopefully you can answer my question before I figure out how to do it myself but. I currently have a 1990 1.6l na miata and i also have a 1994 1.8l na mazda miata. ive been swapping part from my 1.8 to 1.6 and recently ive installed my torsen lsd into my 1.6 miata. I have everything mounted into the car so far except for the axles. Reason for not have the axles in is because for some reason the "slide in" 1 peace axles wont slide into the diff. I think its because they have the little ring on the end of it and it wont push threw passed it but still would like to hear if you have ran into the same problem
Noah Bailey They pop in, sometimes it takes a little force.
Im so doing this next summer!
Hey Greg how can I tell what type of diff my Miata has ?
+pos miata Google "Miata Differential Spotters Guide" it's a really helpful page for figuring that out.
awesome thanks ill check it out
hey mate. did you bushes not come with a bottom part? my bushes were 2 piece and I had to remove the rubber off of the disc mount plate things
great video though.
+Project miata mx5 eunos roadster Not with the GS bushings. They keep the stock rubber ring things on the bottom, and I think that's why there's not a big increase in noise. I have a friend who had delrin diff bushings that were solid mount and he said it would rattle his brain, he went to ES bushings or something else.
I see. Thanks for the fast reply. I have the super pro ones and had to cut the robber off. I only have a tiny bit of a rumble at about 4k but I think that might even be down to me not lining up the ppf correctly. Can't wait to see how to change engine mounts though as I think il do that before fitting the turbo.
Project miata mx5 eunos roadster I can't wait either, I know it's going to make a huge difference over the stock ones.
for sure, i am just trying to eliminate my axle tramp as well. i dont have much in the way of shifter movement like you did in your car but when u blip the throttle a bit it does have this odd moment of play. Keep up the good videos, im hooked! im working on a few videos myself of my project.
you sir, make me want to buy a miata but when I look them up I see how much pple want for one and I don't want one any more lol great vids tho !!
I used prothane bushings since those are the ones moss has, and I did everything in this video (thank you btw) but I hear a clunking noise coming from the back when i accelerate, anyone have any idea why?
No modification is necessary to the differential retaining plates?
Nope
Thanks man seems pretty easy to do all the work but ya sure got it in there all back 2gether
hey does unbolting those control arms render a new alignment?? Ill be swapping in a few days
+321dropthebass No, you'll only change the alignment if you loosen the lower inner bolts with the eccentric washers.
+TheCarPassionChannel thanks dude
So I just did the same thing to my car however now in neutral if I rev the car it shakes is this because the solid diff bushings took out the slop and the worn motor mounts are more noticeable?
Danny Kim Yes this is completely normal, the diff will translate a little extra engine vibration with these bushings.
TheCarPassionChannel also how can you tell which NVH is caused by the delrin bushings and which are caused from other things? At 75mph there's a noticeable vibration (even more so) and it will shake the tach needle up and down. Also I have a whirring noise at low rpms in the city is that normal? Thanks
It seems like a lot of work trying to pry that metal sleeve out of the diff carrier. Why not take a socket and hammer it out like the bearings? Better yet, invest in a 6 ton H frame press?
+tyau1234 Read description, turns out it's better to not even remove the sleeve.
Hey Greg, not bringing up at 3 y/o video to annoy you but I did this bushing job to my car about 2 or so months ago, put everything back together and thought I was good. Turns out I dont have my axles all the way in and my diff leaks horribly and I cant seem to get them to fit in any advice would be great!
You have to give them a good shove to get the clips to pop into place usually. The leak might be from the axles not being seated, or you might need new seals which are very easy to replace. If you just take out the 14mm bolt that holds the upper rear control arm to the hub, and loosen the long bolt in the bottom of the hub (so the hub can pivot) you can swing the upper arm out of the way and use the hub itself like a big slide hammer to bash the axle into place. It takes a little force sometimes but they should pop in all the way.
@@TheCarPassionChannel thanks for the response, I prematurely replaced the seals before I realized that the axles weren't in place so that's already done I guess I'll go at it again, already tried the hub method and the mallet method maybe I'm being too nice to it LOL
Thank you so much for this!
dude you've got/had a na/mk1 with the 6 speed with the 3.9/1 final drive rocking 250bhp right? and ultimately this is my goal, but I've just found the crown/pinion for the 3.64/1 ratio diff and I'm considering getting it as i know it'll drop my wheel torque a bit and make it a little less savage when the boost hits but as mine ain't boosted yet i have no idea what it'll be like when the boost hits and the parts are pretty cheap, basically I'd love your opinion on if it'd be a waste of money or not when i could put it towards my me221 ECU instead
I had a 5-speed with the 3.9 at 276whp which was perfect in my opinion. In my new setup I'll have the 6-speed with the 3.636, which I still think will be too short, but better than the 3.9.
TheCarPassionChannel honestly I'm not really looking for the top end...i would love to see it go off the clock though just for the bucket list lol, there's a place in the UK that does final drives but they're mainly for the stock setup and go upto 4:9 ratio
I didn't really get the 3.6 for top speed either, but extending the lower gears makes a huge difference. I'm going to have a ton of power in the mid range, but if the gears are super short you just waste all your time shifting and end up at 5500+ after each shift.
TheCarPassionChannel have you managed to find the sequential gear boxes on eBay yet they popped up not to long ago but all the ratios are a lot lower from what i remember, shame they're like £9,000 because I'd love one but i cant justify/afford one
does this mean yout engine mounts still allow you to miss shifts?
+SuperCheesechip I did the engine mount video already too. You can still miss, but it does shift better for sure. You just have to use good technique.
I just cold sided my intake today :)
Can i do this without changing the diff fluid? Just replaced it less than a 100 miles ago.
Yes, but I'd still advise draining the fluid. Then just put the same fluid back in.
is removing an open diff on a 1.6 the same method? if I wanted to swap in a torsen
+lance thurmond Yes the process of dropping the diff will be nearly the same, actually a little easier since the 1.6L diff is lighter, and has 2-piece axles so you can just unbolt them.
would you recommend engine mounts or diff mounts first?
+J3n555 It depends on what you're trying to achieve. I wanted to do diff mounts first because they're less aggressive. I will be doing motor mounts very soon which I'll be doing a video on and explaining what type of mounts are best for racing/daily etc.
+TheCarPassionChannel Great! I feel alot of jerkiness when in first and second gear. Im planning on fixing up my driveline bushings and a new shifter rebuild kit.
Of course. I get delrin diff bushings and look on TH-cam for a video on them and Old Grep pops up first. Alright bet.
This was done on the car when it was 1.6 so you already know it's proven
@@TheCarPassionChannel that's good. At least I know these bushings will hold up to all the torque I'm about to send their way
Brilliant !!
Does anyone know why you have to unbolt the driveshaft from the diff? How would this make a difference with pulling out the half shafts from the diff?
Yes just remove the 4 bolts at the flange and it comes right off
TheCarPassionChannel thanks for the response man - but I was asking WHY you unbolted the drive shaft from the diff before pulling the CV axles! I just replaced my CV axles and I didn’t unbolt the drive shaft, and it went fine
@@jtfoog5220 You don't need to unbolt the driveshaft to replace the CV's. You do need to unbolt the driveshaft to remove the diff. Well technically you don't, but it's much more convenient.
Hey man, first of all sweet little miata, very sexy :) anyways I have a couple of questions. I'm going to get my driver license around may this year and I've been thinking about getting a manual miata as my first car since they seem to be pretty reliable.I live in Canada and winter can be quite rough (half a year) do you think it can survive it quite easily? Also will insurences be too expensive for a full time student with a part-time job? Thank you reading this sorry it's quite long but I'm kinda new to the whole car scene and I don't have many very reliable sources :(. Hope to see an answer soon :) also subbed!
+SupraCapo12 I've never driven my Miata in the snow since we don't have snow here, but I know a lot of people do. That's a hard question for me to answer since I don't have any experience with it. I know compared to other cars, the Miata insurance is pretty cheap at least in the U.S. so I think you'd be able to afford it. You can go online to insurance sites and get free quotes so you know how much you can expect to pay.
+TheCarPassionChannel thanks a lot man :)
hey man, do you just leave your car outside?
+ricky fillapill Yeah and I sleep with one eye open
Yeah I leave my Miata outside...I just got my hardtop stolen and the driver side window busted. Make sure to get hardtop security if you got one. Me and two other guys got their tops stolen the same night
and to think people who steal these miata parts might have a miata themselves..
Offtopic but what offset are those wheels? Thanks in advance
+Sam Newman +16mm offset
Thanks for taking the time to do this as always!
Thoughts on swapping open diff out for a welded...? (1.8 1997) daily driver too...
I'm about 35for 65against atm...
Drue
+Drue Steele If you're the loud exhaust/6-puck clutch/stiff coilovers type of guy, go for it, you'll love it. If you're the type to worry about how loud the exhaust is how low the car is for daily driving, you'll probably hate it. Welded diffs are hard to park with and sketchy in the rain, but a perfect budget solution for drifting. If you have the money, a Torsen swap will perform better for grip applications, and a CLSD will be better for drifting.
Removing the old diff bushing makes me want to eat mountains of day old taco bell for breakfast and then sit through a 3 year old's my little pony birthday party WITH NO ACCESS TO A BATHROOM.
It made less difference than you expect, right?
+zj120cn To be honest I was not expecting a huge difference, I filmed the diff itself rocking and I knew it didn't have a lot of slop compared to the engine/trans, but in my opinion it was definitely worth the upgrade as I hardly notice any difference in noise.
Good work man. Wish you could finish the build soon and post videos more often
zj120cn I actually just started a new shorter work schedule which will leave me more time for videos! I had a B&B episode planned over the weekend but I hit some snags so I couldn't do it.
fill with fluid with the axles in or out?
TheMausymaus doesn't matter if it's in the car and level. The fluid sits below the holes for the axles.
thanks!
What size are those spacers?
+Hackjob Garage 20mm
do you have zerk fittings?
+Nihal Farooq I do not.
+TheCarPassionChannel would you ever install them?
***** I might when I upgrade to polyurethane suspension bushings.
After watching a couple of your video's I've Sub'd. Great info!!
Wait. Is the rear Subframe also from a 2002 Miata?
+Ethan Commins Negative, original 1992 subframe.
+TheCarPassionChannel That has those brace tabs? That's kinda weird.
Ethan Commins My 91' does not have those tabs, but my 93' did. I have the brace I just had it off for the video.
+TheCarPassionChannel
Okay I get it. Are you thinking about getting a Racing Beat rear cannon brace? Or is the exhaust routing not compatible with the brace. Or do you just not care about a rear cannon brace.
Ethan Commins I've thought about it, the next bracing mod I want to get is frame rails.
hey what brand are your coilovers?
+Ryan Graham They're Powertrix, I'm going to be doing a couple videos on them over the next 4-6 weeks or so
Cool thanks