Elring Dirko HT Red is also good product. It sticks to aluminium, plastic (Polyamid PA6) or a rubber. My Stihl FS 400 brushcutter's crankcase is sealed with it. No leakage for 11 years now. I've tried to use it also as a carb gasket. Although it's a RTV silicone based sealing compound but it resists gasoline pretty good.
Hey! Thanks for all your content.been watching for about a week now. I am just dealing with the 372 clutch side super secret o ring, been to multiple parts stores over the last few weeks getting parts, no one mentioned it to me haha, until I was watching playback of your live 372 build last night.
.+1 on the Dirko. Reasonably long working time, Only needed on one of the surfaces. Stays elastic as a sealer and doesn't behave as an adhesive. Branded as a Stihl product it's a bit pricey, but can be had directly from Elring a little cheaper. Good vid, btw. Keep it up.
Loctite 518 is not recommended for use on plastics. "This product is not normally recommended for use on plastics (particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the plastic could result). Users are recommended to confirm compatibility of the product with such substrates." Henkel Corp. parent company of Loctite.
...I personally use John Deere Hylomar...about $15.00/tube, it works well, no failures so far, and it is readily available at the local tractor dealership..I know lots of people recommend Three Bond...I haven't tried it as it's not available locally, but I may buy some off the internet and try it...BTW, I have used, and don't like, those Golf pistons from Kafar...many are very crudely cast, I have bought Huztel Farmertec ones that are cheaper, and better cast(and Farmertec is by no means the best available)...another thing, go EASY on the sealant on the bottom of the riser...that stuff will cure and chunks will come loose when running and seize the piston if you don't get ALL of it out of the crankcase and off the crankshaft/rod...Don't ask me how I know.:).....
A great informational video, Im in the first stages of rebuilding my buddies Makita 7321HD concrete saw that fried a piston and stopped running. This might save me some money if the mating surfaces didn't seal and toasted another piston. I'm sure he wouldn't be very happy if that were to happen. Thanks for the info.
What was your experience with sealing up this saw? What did you use in the end and has it held up? I need to reseal one here soon and am curious what worked on the plastic/ metal clam shell?
Do you still use 518 on 262, 257 husky’s with a base gasket or similar saws. My opinion, which definitely could be wrong. If you’re using a cylinder base gasket you shouldn’t need any sealant.
I often use no sealer on base gaskets assuming the surfaces are flat and no gouges. Case gaskets i like threebond 1184. Loctite 518 I use metal to rubber these days...
Right on! 1184!!! I actually put a little dab on my screws and let it be my locktight in lots of applications also! I’m a one product guy now... I don’t need several different products anymore...I just plugged my front truck tire tonight...guess what got wiped onto the plug before it was installed! 1184 has a bunch of uses and eliminates the need for other products.... I would use your 1184 around your intake there and not the locktite??? (1184) I’m way too cheap to use WD instead of a shot of dish soap in my recycled Shout spray bottle looking for those bubbles...😂😂😂👍. Fantastic training videos! Still haven’t broke down and ordered the right angle handpiece for the Foredom from the big money boys...😂. One day they will “copy” my 56... I haven’t found very good 3/32 burrs for the uppers yet either...you find any decent? I always wipe my surface’s with 90% alcohol on a clean paper towel everywhere I’m using 1184... a really light coat on both surface’s and let it kick for 15 minutes and then mate the surface’s... it’s basically just filling the voids and not a glue to hold things together... it’s much easier to disassemble if it’s allowed to kick on both sides then mated ... some people lube up one side and pop them together... it holds but it’s much harder to remove the cylinder if you are porting or whatever... I have also had great results with doing a layer then an hour later doing another layer... then after it’s dry...mounting the cylinder. If you apply 1184 to the case and the cylinder base and let it dry for an hour... you can put a dab of oil on your finger and skim the saw side and mount the cylinder and it will seal great but be easy to take on and off several times while porting... I didn’t even do a fresh coat on one that was apart a couple times to see if I’d develop a little leak down the road and it’s been going several years without issue. It stays flexible and basically just creates a smooth surface...so with (two) smooth surface’s it seals very nice...even with the bit of oil! I’d not recommend anyone do this it was just a test... preparing the surface with 90% rubbing alcohol on paper towel or brake cleaner to make sure that the 1184 has a good surface to bond to is very important as well. If you would accidentally rub oil on your base gasket sealer...like you forgot the lube the cylinder and your putting it back together...a little swipe with the alcohol on paper towel to clean the surface works great. Dollar store 90% clear rubbing alcohol is a very cheap but excellent cleaning agent... a little paint brush with cheap alcohol will really brake up the gritty and greasy gunk around the coil and those places. Combined with a little blast of air gun is a great cheap cleaning process... Where would you order the clutch side or the proprietary 372xt bearing from and do you know if there’s an upgraded metal caged option???
yeah. Stihl used it for years to seal their clamshell engines even that its not fuel safe it works great.... Husqvarna has been using Dow Corning 3140 silicone on certain saws like 340,345 and 350.
Is that bottom cylinder tray/bearing cap aftermarket ? I got OEM one with big coarse thead like you said these are crap and I got one aftermarket with fine thread, should I use aftermarket one ? are they okay and no problems with them ?
@@matthewolson8875 I appears to be leaking from the little gray plastic piece that has the little waste basket looking screen on it that sticks up into the oil tank and has a screw holding it in. Is it supposed to have a gasket or O ring on it?
@@matthewolson8875 There was nothing on mine to seal it up. It looks like that there may have been a place for a small O ring, but I am not certain. I am watching videos to see what other people ran into when they took theirs apart. My Jonsered CS2255 has a little rubber hose with a filter on the end that presses into the bottom of the tank. Mine WAS leaking until I took it out, cleaned it up and put it back in with some Seal-All.
Well my 350 it is not too loud like firs time after 10 years not been used I try to work with it but won't work.? I do not know why I do not see anything broken.! Can I get little help thanks
Right, I saw what you used, and there's too many Yamabonds to choose from. So maybe Dirko or Threebond 1184. Doubt I'll find anything on the shelf in my town tomorrow, but I'm going to look-tired of waiting on parts/pieces.
you should try wurth quick seal heavy body rtv, article #: 189095900. used it for years on -differential covers without issue. it is very easy to use as it comes in a pre-charged dispenser can. I've even used it to glue exterior door mirrors on years ago and they haven't moved (plastic backing of mirror to plastic mirror motor very well)
Matthew Olson we all tend to use what has worked for us individually in the past so once you find what works for you, stuck with it unless it gives you reason to change...
just a tip, the loctite anaerobic sealers are awesome when used for the correct application. if used with aluminum, you have to use a primer or it will never cure.
yep.... i'm with ya. so far the 1184 is working, and has worked for Walt for a while on these saws. I like it, and my tube of it is seeming to go a long way. if I see an issue, i'll switch to something else
I've seen it cure just fine on the intakes... aluminum against rubber, no primer used. also, it holds the mag case to the aluminum cylinders without trouble... no primer. .... but that I have seen definitely work.
Elring Dirko HT Red is also good product. It sticks to aluminium, plastic (Polyamid PA6) or a rubber. My Stihl FS 400 brushcutter's crankcase is sealed with it. No leakage for 11 years now. I've tried to use it also as a carb gasket. Although it's a RTV silicone based sealing compound but it resists gasoline pretty good.
I love to see your little guy out in the shop. You're doing it right, brother... on top of solid info on the rebuild.
Hey! Thanks for all your content.been watching for about a week now. I am just dealing with the 372 clutch side super secret o ring, been to multiple parts stores over the last few weeks getting parts, no one mentioned it to me haha, until I was watching playback of your live 372 build last night.
.+1 on the Dirko. Reasonably long working time, Only needed on one of the surfaces. Stays elastic as a sealer and doesn't behave as an adhesive. Branded as a Stihl product it's a bit pricey, but can be had directly from Elring a little cheaper. Good vid, btw. Keep it up.
515 and 518 are anaerobic sealants to be used between two "active" metal surfaces. Not between plastic and metal.
The Hoss yep....thanks
Loctite 518 is not recommended for use on plastics.
"This product is not normally recommended for use on plastics (particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the plastic could result). Users are recommended to confirm compatibility of the product with such substrates."
Henkel Corp. parent company of Loctite.
yup.... that about sums it up, thanks
...I personally use John Deere Hylomar...about $15.00/tube, it works well, no failures so far, and it is readily available at the local tractor dealership..I know lots of people recommend Three Bond...I haven't tried it as it's not available locally, but I may buy some off the internet and try it...BTW, I have used, and don't like, those Golf pistons from Kafar...many are very crudely cast, I have bought Huztel Farmertec ones that are cheaper, and better cast(and Farmertec is by no means the best available)...another thing, go EASY on the sealant on the bottom of the riser...that stuff will cure and chunks will come loose when running and seize the piston if you don't get ALL of it out of the crankcase and off the crankshaft/rod...Don't ask me how I know.:).....
Nice comment...thanks!
A great informational video, Im in the first stages of rebuilding my buddies Makita 7321HD concrete saw that fried a piston and stopped running. This might save me some money if the mating surfaces didn't seal and toasted another piston. I'm sure he wouldn't be very happy if that were to happen. Thanks for the info.
Craig Timmons welcome...if you got questions go for it any time...but I'm not familiar with the model you listed
What was your experience with sealing up this saw? What did you use in the end and has it held up? I need to reseal one here soon and am curious what worked on the plastic/ metal clam shell?
Threebond 1184 is what I'm using now. It sticks to plastic. Loctite 518 does not
@@matthewolson8875 thanks Matt, I appreciate the tip.
Do you still use 518 on 262, 257 husky’s with a base gasket or similar saws. My opinion, which definitely could be wrong. If you’re using a cylinder base gasket you shouldn’t need any sealant.
I often use no sealer on base gaskets assuming the surfaces are flat and no gouges. Case gaskets i like threebond 1184. Loctite 518 I use metal to rubber these days...
PS good video I like seeing things torn apart and put back together
Then u r in luck. I do it all the time. :)
I also used a Scotch-Brite pad on the plastic base before i put 1184 on it
Good idea I'll do the same...
Never too loud Matt, open that muffler!!!
David LeFevre it's open...the owner says it's too loud ...lol
glad everyone likes the vid!
Walter be proud of u.
Walter would be proud
Right on! 1184!!! I actually put a little dab on my screws and let it be my locktight in lots of applications also! I’m a one product guy now... I don’t need several different products anymore...I just plugged my front truck tire tonight...guess what got wiped onto the plug before it was installed! 1184 has a bunch of uses and eliminates the need for other products.... I would use your 1184 around your intake there and not the locktite??? (1184) I’m way too cheap to use WD instead of a shot of dish soap in my recycled Shout spray bottle looking for those bubbles...😂😂😂👍. Fantastic training videos! Still haven’t broke down and ordered the right angle handpiece for the Foredom from the big money boys...😂. One day they will “copy” my 56... I haven’t found very good 3/32 burrs for the uppers yet either...you find any decent? I always wipe my surface’s with 90% alcohol on a clean paper towel everywhere I’m using 1184... a really light coat on both surface’s and let it kick for 15 minutes and then mate the surface’s... it’s basically just filling the voids and not a glue to hold things together... it’s much easier to disassemble if it’s allowed to kick on both sides then mated ... some people lube up one side and pop them together... it holds but it’s much harder to remove the cylinder if you are porting or whatever... I have also had great results with doing a layer then an hour later doing another layer... then after it’s dry...mounting the cylinder. If you apply 1184 to the case and the cylinder base and let it dry for an hour... you can put a dab of oil on your finger and skim the saw side and mount the cylinder and it will seal great but be easy to take on and off several times while porting... I didn’t even do a fresh coat on one that was apart a couple times to see if I’d develop a little leak down the road and it’s been going several years without issue. It stays flexible and basically just creates a smooth surface...so with (two) smooth surface’s it seals very nice...even with the bit of oil! I’d not recommend anyone do this it was just a test... preparing the surface with 90% rubbing alcohol on paper towel or brake cleaner to make sure that the 1184 has a good surface to bond to is very important as well. If you would accidentally rub oil on your base gasket sealer...like you forgot the lube the cylinder and your putting it back together...a little swipe with the alcohol on paper towel to clean the surface works great. Dollar store 90% clear rubbing alcohol is a very cheap but excellent cleaning agent... a little paint brush with cheap alcohol will really brake up the gritty and greasy gunk around the coil and those places. Combined with a little blast of air gun is a great cheap cleaning process...
Where would you order the clutch side or the proprietary 372xt bearing from and do you know if there’s an upgraded metal caged option???
dirko sealant is very good
yeah. Stihl used it for years to seal their clamshell engines even that its not fuel safe it works great.... Husqvarna has been using Dow Corning 3140 silicone on certain saws like 340,345 and 350.
Is that bottom cylinder tray/bearing cap aftermarket ? I got OEM one with big coarse thead like you said these are crap and I got one aftermarket with fine thread, should I use aftermarket one ? are they okay and no problems with them ?
so far I wouldn't worry about using the am one
Permatex ultra gray and moto seal 🙏🙌👌
What about using a primer for the 518? Like Loctite 494147 "Klean N' Prime Anaerobic Primer Activator"
Maybe....still not confident it'll stick properly to plastic though
i used 1184 on my 350 Matt,
Hmmmm... This 350 has a purge bulb. Mine does not. Mine was made in 2003 as far as I can tell. Interesting. Looking for a way to fix the oil leak.
Where is the oil leaking from?
@@matthewolson8875 I appears to be leaking from the little gray plastic piece that has the little waste basket looking screen on it that sticks up into the oil tank and has a screw holding it in. Is it supposed to have a gasket or O ring on it?
@@NootNoot67 ah....ok....I'd probably put a little 1184 on it and seat it. I don't remember if there is supposed to be an o ring or not
@@matthewolson8875 There was nothing on mine to seal it up. It looks like that there may have been a place for a small O ring, but I am not certain. I am watching videos to see what other people ran into when they took theirs apart. My Jonsered CS2255 has a little rubber hose with a filter on the end that presses into the bottom of the tank. Mine WAS leaking until I took it out, cleaned it up and put it back in with some Seal-All.
@@NootNoot67 i dunno if I have a case sitting around...if I remember tomorrow I'll have a look at one in have
What's that new sealant called that you're using now mate thanks
Threebond 1184
How are you sealing the carburetor for the pressure test?
Use a piece of rubber....like from a bicycle tube
Well my 350 it is not too loud like firs time after 10 years not been used I try to work with it but won't work.? I do not know why I do not see anything broken.! Can I get little help thanks
JLuis Lopes did you do a compression test?
Permatex Motoseal works great part # 29132 its just like that 1184 but motoseal is easy to find i got mine at O'Reilly $8.99
218Bee mod43win nice....thanks! I just ordered a new tube of 1184 but I know some guys like the moto seal
Good video !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pretty well impossible to tell which product to use in this application from the Henkel Locktite company pages and PDF's for days...
Three bond 1184 for the riser block and bearings
Right, I saw what you used, and there's too many Yamabonds to choose from. So maybe Dirko or Threebond 1184. Doubt I'll find anything on the shelf in my town tomorrow, but I'm going to look-tired of waiting on parts/pieces.
you should try wurth quick seal heavy body rtv, article #: 189095900. used it for years on -differential covers without issue. it is very easy to use as it comes in a pre-charged dispenser can. I've even used it to glue exterior door mirrors on years ago and they haven't moved (plastic backing of mirror to plastic mirror motor very well)
so far I like the 1184 stuff, seems to work fine... but thanks for the tip
Matthew Olson we all tend to use what has worked for us individually in the past so once you find what works for you, stuck with it unless it gives you reason to change...
just a tip, the loctite anaerobic sealers are awesome when used for the correct application. if used with aluminum, you have to use a primer or it will never cure.
yep.... i'm with ya. so far the 1184 is working, and has worked for Walt for a while on these saws. I like it, and my tube of it is seeming to go a long way. if I see an issue, i'll switch to something else
I've seen it cure just fine on the intakes... aluminum against rubber, no primer used. also, it holds the mag case to the aluminum cylinders without trouble... no primer. .... but that I have seen definitely work.
I can only see one of the reasons they even have a gasket on the lower end. to keep out the dirt.