Husqvarna 350's " Tech Talk" Discussion of 345, 350,353, & 346 Cylinders & Mod Concepts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2014
- Another Saw Geek Video! As a qualifier,
This is NOT a step by step " How To " video. This a Saw geek to saw geek sharing of experiences.. hope others will post some of their stuff in return. The target audience is those who work on saws and already are fairly advanced mechanics with two stroke experience.
Don't attempt these mod concepts unless you understand some basic's about working inside those cylinders and / or you have a saw you can hack on because it's already dead!. You can waste a perfectly good cylinder and even waste the saw by not understanding things like breaking edges, not having too "square" an edge for a port... the basic stuff. SO if the basics aren't in your experience. this is entertainment but not something to try...please. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Metal clamp of the 385/390s fit perfectly over the top of the plastic clamp if you trim the raised bits off it. A standard hose clamp would also work.
Very well explained to the lay men, tree man.best ive seen.as I've been forced to go from tree guy to part time mechanic.lol.getting older.and dealers well as you say ya know?
Dude I'm lazy ... I wanted to learn from your hard work and trial and error or whatever that line was.... LOL. I'm grinding on my exhaust and intake ports with my new burr and my Foredom tool !!!! Woo hooooo! I'm going threw the vids looking for the really good one with all the info on the big bore Hutzl jug grind job so I can do a quick copy and get to checking my squish ..... Vroooom Vrooooom, it's firewood cuttin' time !!!! As a salute to my saw rebuilding guru !!! "There's no substitution for displacement!!!!" I think I'm adding that line to the back of my work shirts somewhere next year???? I gotta get that echo QV8000 saw kicking so I can slap a 20 inch bar on it and rip up sum wood!!!! Is that 404 chain the biggest tooth...largest hunk of wood you can go with??? They say it doesn't have the insane top end of the other saws spinning 13k.... I think it's more like 9,600.... But my friend over in Ohio said he's running a 32" bar with semi 3/8 .50 gauge and he can totally lay on it and it makes no difference in the RPM's in the wood !!! .....that 88cc's just keeps ripping right along at the 9,600.... Do you think I could find an unlimited ignition and take it up to 10,500/11k ????? Or, would you just go with what I'm thinking and put the most aggressive cutting chain possible and let it dig along at 9,600 all day long... It's not like I'm in a Hugh hurry or under some production schudaled whatever to get done by a certain time. And when I get that 52mm Hutzl big bore jug ground and slapped on that 271xp ... That will be my go to saw there in that group and cover 70 something plus cc's or cover that 25" bar with the occional 32" when bucking up a good-un'. I have 3 350's to finish and get on eBay .... Then I really want to do that husky 340 with the Hutzl big bore.... It will be great with its compression release and Primier bulb for my winter fire wood saw... I really like being able to pump three times and crank from cold in two pulls. And I'm hoping that all ported up and cleaned up it will be a cool looking little sleeper hiding in its little 340 case with the primer bulb..... I need to make that degree wheel like yours... So tell me a name a model number if it works really good for you... Ok? And I was looking at that chuck you are using... That things a beast ! Off a milling machine maybe ???...and it would cost a bundle too much to use in my wheel build project .... But I have an old Chraftsman drill with a speed chuck on it I never use and I'm thinking I can leave some shaft ... then tap it for threads and put on a nut to hold my degree wheel in place. I think it's a 3/8 drill chuck.... Is that big enough to lightly grab the crank treads of most modern saws under 70-80 cc's in your experience of the saws you have had come accross your work bench in the last couple of years? Thanks for the insight and motivation ! And damn good and info packed videos... there fella! Much thanks, David
husky knew what they were doing when they made removable tranfer covers
Great video, very interesting content
Question...just got a old gravely 100 zero turn...they use 20w-50 for hydro oil. Should the unit be totally cleaned then all new lube...or save some old like a auto trans. Wonder why It's not trans or hydro oil...just motor oil like that? Don't know if that's in your wheel house...but worth a shot.
Hey Mate, Enjoying your videos. Have you had anything to do with the Husqvarna 2101XP, and do Hutzl make any parts for these.
What parts are compatible for these if any from the later saws?
Cheers
Rod
No on the 2101xp, have a 298xp which is in the same family and Bob has pretty much one of all in the 2100 family. Not aware of any AM parts for those saws. The 350 is supported by a pile of AM suppliers....:)
On my way to by a "new" saw and are deciding between the HQV 345 and the HQV 346. Great vid for a more insight on the differences. (y)
346.. :)
What is the sealant of choice to use between the plastic crankcase and the bearing cap? Thanks for all of this. I’m getting closer to assembling my Husky 350. Thanks again
I used Three Bond 1184 and that was the ONLY product that I have used that never failed me for a gasket / sealer
@@afleetcommand thank you sir
Hey Walt, the mod you did at 18:50, Would this be benificial on the 272xp platform?. would appreciate a saw Wizzards advice thank you very much :)
A derivative of that yes, but they have a different design for the lower transfers. You can open them up some and have a little gain, work the intake and exhaust timing to get around 80 degrees btdc on the intake and 100 atdc on exhaust. But to get really big gains, the transfer ports are the limiting factor, so adding finger ports is a strategy used by me if I want to get more RPM's
@@afleetcommand Thank you very much for your help
:)
First build...got the 45mm hultzle top end kit for my 350 rebuild. I was just going to polish the exhaust port. I'm nervous to drill muffler to port as I don't know proper size hole? Needs some back pressure? If you open the needle till it gargles...then close slightly...is that sufficient to determine It's not running lean? Help.... Thanks much, Dave
David Thorne don't go much past 5/8 dia, if you add a tube as I did. The hole size does matter but not as critical as you might think. Don't waste time polishing ports, as you won't see much of a return....boundary layer & fluid dynamic theory. A little turbulence on the walls isn't a bad thing. If you are not really familiar with using die grinders.... just focus on squish and intake timing on that saw. You will get the most gains typically from compression gains anyway. Checking "squish" is very important so you know what you can get away with. Removing the base gasket and/or removing some material from the bearing cap to get to a squish of .020 is a way to make tangible gains as usually the squish stock is past .040. If you are good with a die grinder, then get a degree wheel and adjust the transfers to get a blow down in the 18 degree range, a good place for a work saw. Also...do NOT do anything that might raise the exhaust. You want as much time where that piston is under pressure as possible..as soon as the exhaust opens, the pressure is done. Something to think about. A good place to start for port timing is get what you can first by tweaking the squish to approx..020 as I said, work from what ever you get at that point with your exhaust timing and work back to calculate the other port timing numbers. Adjust the transfers buy raising them to have your own "research enhanced" blow down numbers on those small saws, 18 degrees is a conservative starting point. Work back to calculate the intake to have around 40 percent of that transfer number for a starting point to get a reasonable amount crank case compression. This approach will give you a snappy 50cc saw and is relatively conservative. YOU have to research to figure where you can push those numbers, there are many ways to "skin a cat". This is a conservative starting point. For example: You remove the base gasket and end up with something like .028 degrees squish, then with a flat plate & abrasive clean up that bearing cap and continue until you have removed the additional .008 to get a net squish of .020. At that point with a degree wheel measure your exhaust timing..it might be something like 102 degrees past top dead center.....so hypothetically lets go with that... then adjust your transfers with a die grinder being careful to get the angles right (use a stock cylinder as a reference), to open 18 degrees after the exhaust...in this case that works out to 120 degrees past TDC. A good number to work with for case compression is 40 percent of the transfer timing number on that saw. So using that 120 number, 120*.040=48. 120-48= 72. So get that intake timing to be around 72 degrees BTDC. (I usually push that a little..75 degrees works well) A good starting point...and I stress STARTING point would be to set that hypothetical saw to these numbers, all based on where that exhaust port lands after squish adjustments: Exhaust: 102 ATDC, Blow down at 18 degrees therefor transfers at 120, ATDC; and intake at 72 BTDC....get the drift?? But you really need to do your own research if you play this game. That's where the fun is...:)
Thank you so much for these words ...and the order and explanation as we go along to get me to the end. I did get a bit frisky in my ports with the brand new metal cutting burr.... I'm gonna be tuneing those puppys up with my stone burrs for awhile.... I just finished up the first work-up...all opened up.... I'm gonna assemble and run on Sunday. I am really liking the pre-lube with the amsoil engine builders lube 4 oz tube... If you figure out a way to send my your mailing ill send the other tube your way.... Ones gonna do me a long time. I ground awhile...washed...ground awhile...3 sets to get the ports to "look" kinda right.... I could still see visible beading in the bore on this Chinese jug.... So this stuff does bond and really lube well... I am gonna do the other jug without it...so next year in the fall ill be able to compare... I'm doing a light coat on the bearing races too... I just put a dab on a tooth brush to work it in and around...right quick when the parts showed up...know they are soaking in the Ziploc and are really well protected while in storage/on deck.... I'm gonna tear down one of the echo trimmers in the rotation on the trailer and see its results/improvements over next season??? I dig this stuff! Thanks Saw Guru!!! :)
I am working on playing with my first 340... What would be a fun setup for porting/play saw? Any extra parts you have ill sent you money for shipping :)
reed wissman Perfect place to start building saw. But go either 350 45mm or OEM 346 top end. AM 350 45mm top ends can be ok, have YET to see an AM 346 top end that's good for anything but a fishing weight. (Except for Meteor's, they make good stuff)
whether it can be put on a husky 346xp cylinder of husky 350
You can put a 346 cylinder on. Have to "relieve" it or take a little material off the transfer where it interferes with the case. (Clutch side) other than that, its a bolt on change..:) AND quite an upgrade. ( A 353 has the same 45mm cylinder as a 350, only difference is the 353 has a flat top piston where the 350 has a "dish" in the top of the piston. A 353 piston will swap right into a 350 jug, also helps make more power. )
th-cam.com/users/edit?video_referrer=watch&video_id=7GR_lFjAgfU
I have question if I can convert my 340 to a 346xp can I put a 353 cylinder on a 340 with the same riser to convert it to 346xp?
Yup. Essentially the 353 is the "metal" case 346xp has with the cylinder from the 350 with the "caps" on the transfers. All those top ends are interchangeable with a little grinding here and there.
@@afleetcommand Thank You
Do you know of a book or tech manual that's real good or something like that explaining the process of blowdown and degrees of stroke on the intake and exahalst and how all those effect the combustion cycle in a chainsaw two stroke engine? And get me to the numbers that you are referring to as really good. Just wondering if you had come accross a manual or a book that you where thinking ...."Hey, this is great info.... Everyone should read this if they wanna work on chainsaws!" That's the book I'm looking for! If it's not out there.... You need to take the winter and write it! I'll definitely in for a few copies!!!! LOL
+David Thorne The two books I've read over the years are:Two-Stroke Tuner's Handbook written by Gordon Jennings andThe Basic Design of Two-Stroke Engines written by Gorden BlairThere are newer books but the simplistic chainsaw motors are typically piston port designs so these books are....timely
@@afleetcommand WHAT HAVE YOU DONE!!! I'm just getting into small engines, repairs, hacks, mods... those 2 books on Amazon are crazy expensive!!! It's gotta be from this recommendation, lol! (I know you can read/download them online pretty cheaply/free, but there's just something about an actual book, ya know?
Are you an engineer? Or, where's the porting/squish info in a text book? Or, years of hands on? Thanks, Dave
David Thorne Life in a box. Former engineer. Former Motocross racer (amateur achieved expert status) & have always done my own work. Farmer now with a lots of time building two strokes. Port timing is a combination of info from other saw builders and empirical data tested by me. The theory's used to derive these results are from a pile of sources starting with Gordon Jennings "Two-Stroke Tuners Hand Books"
Would you do an up date on a 350 you built?
All have survived to this point. "Fugley" got sold to a dude who works for a town Highway dept, uses it for fire wood and the year he bought it he used it to clear cut an area for his barn. That saw owes nothing to anyone...:) All the other 350's I build during that time have similar stories. I still have the farm saw blend of J-red and 350 parts, the one I used as a bench mark. IT still runs fine but with the other saws in the stable now it never gets run time and its too....ugly ... for any one to buy it. So it sits.
Thats very awesome hope they keep runing for those guy's. Well it still would be a nice short video on how she runs or put her in one of your other videos just as a saw in the truck for that day lol. Another question, I was wondering if one of the Poulan STE-4500 18" 20" Bar 42,52,62 CC 2-Cycle Gas Chainsaw Gasoline CS LOT B2 would be a okay saw. I know for sure it's not a poulan and that it's Chinese but just wondering the 52cc or 62cc. Anyways hope you have a good evening buddy!
Скажыте кто нибуть можно установить поршневую от 353 на 350 хузварна?
There are 2 top ends the 350 had, the "capped" close port which is identical to a 353, and the open port which was unique to the 350 series. SO on the versions with that "capped transfer port" top end u can use the same piston on a 353 and 350. In fact there was a "dished" piston in some of the 350's, rather have the flat top from the 353 in those 350's with the cap over the transfer port
Благодарю за ответ,но,хотелось бы уточнить какую поршневую группу можно устанавливать на 350 ,и какая наиболее эффективно будет работать?
У меня в 350 хузварна цылиндр 44 мм,и в продаже таких нет,есть только от 353 ,45мм ,такой цылиндр 45мм можно поставить без переделок ( тюнинг).?
Evening Walt. Watching these 350 video's again, trying to refresh my memory on it before diving into the next 350 project I have. I feel your pain on the inlet boot. I tried a thin hose clamp and almost ruined my 350 again. I had finally received the metal clamp, but the saw was together. I wound up putting it on the 359 is was gifted. I made one of these DIY hose clamp tools and used it when I put my first 350 back together the 2nd time. Can't pull it off without destroying it IMHO. Here's a link, there are dozens of video's on different style builds mine is similar to this one. Hope it helps. th-cam.com/video/5w1_9IkeRmQ/w-d-xo.html
Nice hack
I've got a345 and a 350 that need rebuilding, how much you charge me to rebuild them both. I think they're both worth doing. love cutting wood but don't have much time for saw maintenance.. awesome video!
Mike castillo My bet is you could fix both of them yourself, save the money and take your significant other out! If you have the bucks, build them both into "meteor" 346 configurations.... If you don't have the bucks, then both to "no base gasket" 45mm 350 configurations.
Good video thanks but I think all this porting stuff is just a fad.
yup..it is
The wind noise on your microphone is horrible, You have a lot of great content but it's hard to concentrate with all that wind noise.
well damn, should I delete it?