Husqvarna 350 dismantling, modding, and assembly part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
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www.hlsproparts...
Chainsaws can KILL YOU.... I am not responsible for a saw that is put together poorly nor used improperly. Please watch this video and use this information at your own risk. This is not a HOW TO, but a How I do it video.
Today we have my longest video to date. Its taken many hours of editing to get it to this point. I don't know of any other video that takes a saw apart and puts it back together bolt by bolt like this one. This is my father's 350 which I put together for him last season. I simply wanted to see what was possible with it.
Thanks to www.arboristsite.com for all the help. Old-cat is mentioned in the video but there have been many others that have been very helpful. Many ideas and techniques here also come from watching Mastermind's vids, as well as weimedog. I'll try to post links and give credit where credit is due.
Stock #'s ... squish .065 (not .085), exhaust opening 103, transfers 122 and intake 70.
Squish tightened to 020 ... exhaust 109, transfers 128, intake 76.
Final #'s after porting exhaust 105, transfers 124, and intake 77.
Crank thread size is M8 x 1.0
Cylinder head bolts are M5 x .8
Flywheel is best removed with a puller fyi, rather than loosening the crank nut a bit and putting pressure on the flywheel away from the cylinder and hitting the cranknut....
During reassembly I should have tried the intake baffle and cylinder first to make sure it fit before I added loctite to the base gasket. Gotta also check case clearance on the clutch side and flywheel clearance as well.
A good video on 350's from weimedog (AFLEETCOMMAND is his youtube channel)
• Husqvarna 350's "Tech ...
part 2 link:
• Husqvarna 350 dismantl...
If you want the hyway kit, its here:
www.hlsproparts...
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I just came across this video. I too have a 350 Husqvarna and love it. I always use ethanol free 92 octane gas in my small engines but back when I bought the chainsaw in 1999, the gas had no ethanol in it. I ended up injuring my shoulder and having 4 surgeries on it in a 5 year span.
The chainsaw sat on the shelf for several years, maybe 8-10 before I made an attempt to start it again. I dumped the fuel out, put clean fuel in it and would you believe I only had to pull on it about a dozen times, if that and not only did it star, it idled!!! Unbelievable!!
Terrific saw, I still use it today.
Thanks for the video!!
Lots of 350 stuff on my channel. Make sure you look up the tips and tricks video for the 350....it helps!
Matt: I want to write to say thank you for your video series on the 350. While I am not interested in modding my saw, I did need to take it apart completely. I have had this 350 for many years and most recently it began starving for fuel. When I noticed the cracking in the fuel line, I was lazy and took it to a shop to have them deal with it. They changed the fuel line and that didn't help. So they changed the carb and that didn't help. Out of desperation, they put in a new spark plug - we all know that wouldn't help. So they called me and said, "we can't figure it out - it must be the crank seals, but we are not going that far with it. Please come, pick up your Huskie from Hell, there's no charge since we failed." Your videos gave me the confidence to disassemble my saw and as I did so I found that one of the bolts holding the bottom half of the crankcase together was missing, and two others were loose. So it was sucking air into the crankcase. I had it stripped down to the piston, but I didn't machine the crankcase block - I just wanted it back to the way it was - running!!! I took your advise and retapped each hole to 1/4-28 and picked up some matching socket cap bolts. I sealed the lower crankcase back together using Permatex form-a-gasket and the red threadlocker so those bolts NEVER work their way out again. I degreased and cleaned everything using naptha (camping fuel), which is an excellent solvent. Lubed everything as it went back together and I now have a saw that runs like new. Many thanks!!!!!!!!!!! Could not have done it without you.
Dan McFarland wonderful!!!!! yes!!!!!! and you are very welcome!
I think this is my problem on the 345, and it is what I was told by a local repair shop. Is there a shortcut to get to the bottom of the crankcase block without taking everything apart. My 26 year old engineer son says just to buy a new saw. I've already spent a lot of time on this. It has 90 lbs compression, but if there is a leak... chances are that correcting that would increase compression.
Just found your channel and really enjoyed it. I have a 350 also and love it good saw. Thanks for your videos
Welcome! Join us when I go live sometime... click the bell for notifications.
@Austin Valentino what are we looking for on Google
Woodrow carburettors are excellent. They have no issues.
Thanks for posting. I got a cheap 350 for small felling. I no longer use it, but after seeing this, its going to be my `project` saw.
thanks! ! have fun and be safe!!
E n español
Добрий день Мэт,хочу узнать какой цылиндр лутшэ работает на хуз 350,от 346,350,351,353?заранее спасибо.
There's a debate about if you have to remove the jug in order to replace the plastic intake clamp on the partition wall boot?
Personally I do not believe there is a debate I remove the jug and if the Husqvarna 350 has not yet had a full tear down he probably does need it to reseal the base
Thank you !!
Thanks to your video I finally managed to disassemble this damn clutch thank you very much !!!
Can I change my cylinder and piston fron a narrow bore to a big bore on the same saw? I have a Husqvarna 350.
What cylinder do you have currently. The 350s came with a few different ones.
what the hole in between the black fuel line and the return nipple? my 350 is leaking gas from there
Подскажыте где в европе можно заказать цылиндр для хуз 350?
Nice video. I've got a 351 and a 353. After working with 346xpgs at work, I feel like my saws lack quite a bit of rpm and responsiveness. Any recommendations apart from opening the mufflers and maybe advance? Cheers
check and make sure those saws don't have dished pistons... they may be low on compression. open the muff,.. without going towards crazy port work you can also change out the intake setup to a 359/357xp setup... better air flow in. if you want to be as good as the 346xps ... then just get the 346xp cylinder .... oem from ashokan turf and timber is around 105 shipped. google their shop, talk to "spike60" ...
no need for advance on these.... at least i don't think so.
Thanks Matt for the fast reply
appreciate your videos
glad I could help!!
Matthew, what is "squish"? I want to know more about what you're doing to this saw? I'm about to take my 346xp apart because it needs a new tank unit?
Ben Greenstar I have a 346xp vid as well. squish is the distance between the top of the piston and the cylinder head at top dead center. ie....how close does the piston come to hitting when it reaches the top. usual squish is... 040"- .060" ...optimal is usually accepted to be .020"
I highly appreciate your series on the Husqvarna 350, though I followed your directions with respect to the use of rope in the plug hole and fixed the saw. But the rope is now stuck between the piston & cylinder.. How to release it?
In the Muffler port, I can see the rope squished by piston as it's stuck there!
Please help advise, I've needed the saw for over a month and had to fix oiler seal after friend had beennusing it.
Thank you!!
You pushed the rope too far. Back off the flywheel with a wrench. Don't pinch yourself!
Used a rope in plug hole to remove clutch & it's now stuck between piston & cylinder.. took off muffler and see it stuck, squished there..
Considering reversing the flywheel or removing the cylinder housing..
Someone also advised this:
Can you go to the hardware store and find a couple of nuts to thread onto the main crank and then put a wrench on it and work at either forward or backwards to release the rope?
@@larryjohanseniv7049 there is a nut already on the flywheel you can grab
Advisors always state to push it all the way in, in order to fill the housing. I push the envelope lol thank you and thank you for your videos!!! Really appreciated
@@larryjohanseniv7049 you can also grab the flywheel but don't pinch yourself. ...if you need to double nut the flywheel it's m8x1.0 right hand thread
Hi Matt
My Huskey 350 has a broken starter, the cord got caught in the flywheel when i was using it and busted it.
also that little black plastic air baffle broke too,
Do you have a video on this repair? and where do you recommend to get the parts?
Thanks
Paul
the black plastic air baffle can be bought aftermarket or oem, as can be the starter. you can click on the link in the description of this vid for HL supply and they should have the aftermarket stuff available, and possibly the oem pieces as well. starters are bit annoying, but need to be played with and you'll get it. i don't have a specific vid of that but its a fine idea. really backed up with vids right now, and will hopefully get to "requests" vids one day
Thanks for the video. Does the exhaust gasket go on after the heat shield?
Heat shield directly against the cylinder...then the gasket ...then the muff
@@matthewolson8875 thanks. The exhaust gases have melted a hole into the chain oil reservoir. I'm trying an epoxy repair.
@@johnboath27 thats a common issue... often easier to find a used case
@@johnboath27 I suffered the same… got a big hole melted in the bottom of my case after muffler bolts worked loose and muffler loosened off. Pleased to say I had very successful repair of an approx 3cm diameter melted hole using J B Weld 8297 High Heat 500 Degree Epoxy Putty. Amazing stuff. After repairing using that, before reattaching the muffler, once it had set, I laid a cutout piece of thin aluminium from a coke can as extra heat protection. This method has sorted the issue for my 350 and saved me buying a whole new crankcase. I’ve also added a cheap bracket guard to hold the muffler in place. This is now attached to the dogs to ensured the muffler bolts never work loose again! Good luck.
@@paulclarke2321 my jb weld repair has held up well for the last couple of months with regular use. I also fitted the muffler bracket.
Dziękuję za pomoc
Hi Matthew. I have a jonsered 2166 and have heard about removing restrictors and port plates. This is going to make me look really dumb but are they talking about the exhaust port? If so, What plate would I be removing and what restrictions am I grinding out? I'm sorry to be so naive but I don't want to ruin a new saw but if easy enough, I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
Dan Difusco they are talking about the transfer covers. They are on the sides of the cylinder head. ..so you have to remove the head to get to them and grind on them. Your call if you want to do that :)
Matthew Olson ah ok. Thank you sir
no problem...
if you decide to take it apart, my xtorq 372 vid will be helpful. the 2166 is similar I think.
Hey Mate, Enjoying your videos. Have you had anything to do with the Husqvarna 2101XP, and do Hutzl make any parts for these.
What parts are compatible for these if any from the later saws?
Cheers
Rod
Rocket100 the 2101 is quite a unique piece. I don't have any experience but I do know parts are difficult to get for that model. That is not a saw I'd use daily due to the lack of parts availability. ...hope that helps. And thanks!
Yeah I'm learning quickly they are hard to get parts for. My old man has one and needs a few bits. Chain Brake band ect ect
Rocket100 best thing is to post on the forum.... opeforum.com and beg for parts lol
My opinion....u have a collectors model....not an every day use saw. It's quite the piece though and is worth good money....
Do they not make oem parts for this saw anymore?
They do
... should be mostly available
is this saw similar enough to the 353 to use this video as a reference?
yes....353 though is a magnesium case. ..not plastic....most of the parts are the same though
i want to ask.. anyone pls.. i just buy husqvarna 350..later.. i found bad review about that machine.. is that true? .. like leaks.. and other.. i dont remember..
I love my 350s... need to rework them a bit though. Look for one of my vids 350 tips and tricks :)
I need help!
Husqvarna 460 Rancher here.
I torqued down too hard on one of the bar bolts and snapped it in half. See pic. I have the replacement bolt but for the life of me CANNOT figure out how to get the old bolt out. It is not a model where the bolt comes out through the oil tank. I cannot find anything online anywhere on how to replace it on this model.
Anyone have any ideas?
Tap the old bolt into the tank ....then bring new bolt in through tank. Press fit
Can't on the 460. It doesn't push into the oil tank.
@@jeff6365 far as I know they do... they tap right into the tank
@@jeff6365 according to the husky part diagrams the 460 bolts are press fit.
@@matthewolson8875 got it. I'll check it out again and let you know. Appreciate you looking it up for me.
Are u coming on live tonight
Probably lol
Do you have part numbers for cylinder and piston?
503-86-98-71
That's the oem head and piston. Go to my link for hlsupply. ..it's in the description of the video....they sell the oem heads
@@matthewolson8875 ok thank you, I have a pre epa cylinder that's scored pretty bad so I'm trying to find a new one with piston.
@@lindseyessic9593 just get the 346xp head. .. it's the best on that chassis.... don't forget to check out my tips and tricks vid too
very clever save pulling your hair out in frustration
Tony Gray thanks!
Coldest-blooded P.O.*. I've ever owned. Trouble starting and staying running since new. Have kept the thing immaculate, service the chain sprocket every time I use it, have replaced and gapped plugs, installed premium plugs and replaced spark cable to no avail. Have tried different choke settings, removed and cleaned plug, no difference. Takes about 30 pulls to have it run for 5 seconds, then stop. After about four of these sets, it runs for about 30 seconds then dies when you try to use the handle throttle. Took it for service, and improved for about two hours, but service tech said these like to foul plugs no matter what you do, recommending a real chain saw...Stihl. This one is going to the curb for some sucker to take and be frustrated with. Don't even waste your money or time on this weird brand Chain saw. Just like weird Swedish cars, it's hard and expensive to repair, and bad design. Buy conventional stuff built locally by people that actually speak our language.
see my reply to the same comment elsewhere