Thanks for a great explanation of how this pump and the adjuster works. Emery cloth is quite rough so it might be worthwhile to hit it with a finer grit after the emery cloth to debut the plunger to minimize wear on the adjuster. This is a great idea to mod the pump for increased flow and to seal the rubber oil feed tube. Thanks again.
Good job, I had same trouble on my 350 ,I wasn't sure if the stroke of the pump wasn't enough or the notch at the opposite end didn't transfer enough oil so I doctored both ends but at the time I recall not been able to pop the pin like u did,so good job to you...as for the weeping oil issue I tried a few fixes, all failed but what I found is to put a deliberate dent in the metal cover directly over the black rubber piece to increase the sealing force and that was the cure I found best, did it to several husqvarna models since 455,357, I got a 2153 haven't needed to on that model ...
Hey thanks for sharing! That's what this is all about. I love l learning new tips! I'll definitely put that one in the memory bank. I'll have to give it a try. It totally makes sense to me. One track mind I never would have thought of that. Good work! I'm not sure if this "fix" will yield anymore oil flow, but I hope to find out this evening.
I love the 350 it's got common issues but once you persevere and solve them it's fun to use I don't believe tree care guys or loggers will trip up to get hold of one 😂...but as a play thing there fun...now as I think of it have you secured the fuel tank vent ? They do pop out ( unseen ) and there silly price to replace...try glue or 3bond or Matt Olson use solder iron to create a nub, I think this is good long term fix...and muff bracket which I'm sure u know...btw you how to tighten squish clearance??? If not just say..
@@nickywalsh8492 I'll look into the tank vent. Thanks! It has a 346xp muffler bracket. I missed the last part, are you asking how I tightened the squish clearance on this saw?
No I was asking if you knew how....I found sand a few thou from bearing cap (cylinder side) worked good I can't remember did I change to thinner gasket or use sealers...I think the latter...I got 18 tho quite easily and it work out nice... bigger single exhaust outlet and practical no porting... very easy saw to start as well...I hadn't noticed you have squish video uploaded , I'll watch it later...👍👍
I get all excited sometimes and just get on a role and put things together without documenting 🤦♂️ The squish on this saw was .014" with no gasket after everything was cleaned up (light surfacing on bearing cap like you stated) so I ended up making a thinner base gasket. I was shooting for .018" but the material I had on hand landed me at .019"-.020" so I didn't get picky and just left it. Even on non ported saws I'm always impressed with the gains made just from setting a "proper" squish clearance. I too stayed with the larger single exhaust outlet. Sometimes I like a saw to look stock......... until somebody runs it ;)
Be nice if I found this video a month ago, it literally took me an hour to figure out how the pump works, one reason is I didn't have as much slope as you did on yours.. After several years of having same problem with my 550xp when cutting lots of firewood, my chain gets dry and only half of oil is used. So last month I took it apart, as I thought the plunger is harden steel so a file wouldn't touch it, so I tried Dremel. I tried taking off a little but I might taken a little to much, but now my saw puts out boat loads of oil, I can tell better next time I use full tank of gas. I might off been able to do better of how much to grind off if I had calipers and some of that emery cloth like you did.......
also...the pump/cylinder operate on a slip-fit tolerance, maintained by the heavy viscosity of the bar oil. Through mis-use, it will lose that close fit, leaving one to buy a new pump for $20
GOTTA ASK YOU......@samishsawworks5870 Why on earth did you decide to file down the angled end of the pump cylinder? You could have easily reduced the material on the opposite straight end, which is a lot more accurate AND has less material.? OR....simply drill out the .0625 holes at the end of the pump cylinder? ( you can go up to .140 dia)
At the 6:45 mark in this video shows a little th-cam.com/video/Qfuu28laddI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=d9oMYbwzUuZtN90X I don't have a part number for the clutch drum, but I run a regular drum with a drive sprocket, not a spur sprocket drum that normally comes on them.
Here ya go th-cam.com/video/C7qnO49hs48/w-d-xo.html Yes it flows more. I didn't get "before" footage, but it definitely flows more now. A must needed modification in my eyes, if you have a stingy pump and/or you're running a longer bar.
Dang. If a saw flows plenty of oil is a non issue, but I have a few "non adjustable" saws that come up short in the oiling department. Some empty the whole tank in a matter of minutes. Having an adjustment is definitely a bonus.
Thanks for a great explanation of how this pump and the adjuster works. Emery cloth is quite rough so it might be worthwhile to hit it with a finer grit after the emery cloth to debut the plunger to minimize wear on the adjuster. This is a great idea to mod the pump for increased flow and to seal the rubber oil feed tube. Thanks again.
Great explanation and video w/ close-ups ! Thank you !
Good job, I had same trouble on my 350 ,I wasn't sure if the stroke of the pump wasn't enough or the notch at the opposite end didn't transfer enough oil so I doctored both ends but at the time I recall not been able to pop the pin like u did,so good job to you...as for the weeping oil issue I tried a few fixes, all failed but what I found is to put a deliberate dent in the metal cover directly over the black rubber piece to increase the sealing force and that was the cure I found best, did it to several husqvarna models since 455,357, I got a 2153 haven't needed to on that model ...
Hey thanks for sharing! That's what this is all about. I love l learning new tips! I'll definitely put that one in the memory bank. I'll have to give it a try. It totally makes sense to me. One track mind I never would have thought of that. Good work!
I'm not sure if this "fix" will yield anymore oil flow, but I hope to find out this evening.
I love the 350 it's got common issues but once you persevere and solve them it's fun to use I don't believe tree care guys or loggers will trip up to get hold of one 😂...but as a play thing there fun...now as I think of it have you secured the fuel tank vent ? They do pop out ( unseen ) and there silly price to replace...try glue or 3bond or Matt Olson use solder iron to create a nub, I think this is good long term fix...and muff bracket which I'm sure u know...btw you how to tighten squish clearance??? If not just say..
@@nickywalsh8492 I'll look into the tank vent. Thanks! It has a 346xp muffler bracket. I missed the last part, are you asking how I tightened the squish clearance on this saw?
No I was asking if you knew how....I found sand a few thou from bearing cap (cylinder side) worked good I can't remember did I change to thinner gasket or use sealers...I think the latter...I got 18 tho quite easily and it work out nice... bigger single exhaust outlet and practical no porting... very easy saw to start as well...I hadn't noticed you have squish video uploaded , I'll watch it later...👍👍
I get all excited sometimes and just get on a role and put things together without documenting 🤦♂️ The squish on this saw was
.014" with no gasket after everything was cleaned up (light surfacing on bearing cap like you stated) so I ended up making a thinner base gasket. I was shooting for
.018" but the material I had on hand landed me at .019"-.020" so I didn't get picky and just left it. Even on non ported saws I'm always impressed with the gains made just from setting a "proper" squish clearance. I too stayed with the larger single exhaust outlet. Sometimes I like a saw to look stock......... until somebody runs it ;)
nice job on explaining oiler adjustment!!! thanks for sharing
Be nice if I found this video a month ago, it literally took me an hour to figure out how the pump works, one reason is I didn't have as much slope as you did on yours..
After several years of having same problem with my 550xp when cutting lots of firewood, my chain gets dry and only half of oil is used.
So last month I took it apart, as I thought the plunger is harden steel so a file wouldn't touch it, so I tried Dremel. I tried taking off a little but I might taken a little to much, but now my saw puts out boat loads of oil, I can tell better next time I use full tank of gas. I might off been able to do better of how much to grind off if I had calipers and some of that emery cloth like you did.......
Nice explanation! Love your attention to details! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
I always think about the questions "I would have" and try to hit on those points. Thanks!
also...the pump/cylinder operate on a slip-fit tolerance, maintained by the heavy viscosity of the bar oil. Through mis-use, it will lose that close fit, leaving one to buy a new pump for $20
GOTTA ASK YOU......@samishsawworks5870 Why on earth did you decide to file down the angled end of the pump cylinder? You could have easily reduced the material on the opposite straight end, which is a lot more accurate AND has less material.? OR....simply drill out the .0625 holes at the end of the pump cylinder? ( you can go up to .140 dia)
What did you clean the area with prior to adding the threebond?
What worm gear did you use with your rim conversion?
Husqvarna part number 503892102
When I turn the adjustment screw it keeps on turning like it's not getting tighter or looser I can't tell what's going on, any idea?
What Sprocket clutch drum do you use on the Husqvarna 350? I’ve looked through all your videos and can’t figure it out.
At the 6:45 mark in this video shows a little
th-cam.com/video/Qfuu28laddI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=d9oMYbwzUuZtN90X
I don't have a part number for the clutch drum, but I run a regular drum with a drive sprocket, not a spur sprocket drum that normally comes on them.
I run 3/8 pitch chain with 7 pin drive sprocket.
Awesome!
Will this work on a Husqvarna 18” 440
how to avoid oil overflow on chain
Turn the rpms up and it will pump more oil! 🤣
I did not see th end results, If it improve the bar oil problem, Your video ended and did not show the end results
Here ya go th-cam.com/video/C7qnO49hs48/w-d-xo.html
Yes it flows more. I didn't get "before" footage, but it definitely flows more now. A must needed modification in my eyes, if you have a stingy pump and/or you're running a longer bar.
At least that saw has an adjustment my 435 don't :(
Dang. If a saw flows plenty of oil is a non issue, but I have a few "non adjustable" saws that come up short in the oiling department. Some empty the whole tank in a matter of minutes. Having an adjustment is definitely a bonus.