5 Things You Should NEVER Do To Your Modern Car in 2024
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2023
- A Master Automobile Technician and Shop Owner shares 5 things you should never do to your modern car in 2024.
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0:25 dont overfill or run dry ur gas
2:55 take care of your engine (don't drive all city miles; avoid short trips; warm up the car)
8:10 don't hang things where you shouldn't (don't hang things on shifters, steering, mirrors;
12:18 don't use "Windex" or glass cleaner on infotainment system screens/surfaces (ammonia harms touchscreens)
14:15 car floods: sunroof-drains (clean them) & windshield (improper replacement installation)
You just saved me 19 mins😂
Thank you kind sir.
Mostly irrelevant for EVs.
@@rogerphelps9939 uh other than the gas part everything else about windex and overflooding are pretty applicable regardless of engine type
You forgot the most important part: cut oil change intervals in half on turbo charged cars
Officer, I'm just letting my car breathe ... I'm doing an Italian tune-up sir :)
Funny, I actually got stopped last month cause I was performing a drive cycle on one of my cars to get it to pass inspection. He let me go when I told him. But he just thought I was being a wise ass.
Italian Tune up
I’d rather watch this than listening to Scotty Kilmer say everything is junk or every car manufacturer is shutting down.
Scott Kilmer channel is more for entertainment. Car care nut is for information.
AMD knows his stuff! I like him and watch his post’s regularly
I got bad advice from Scotty
Scotty lost me as the clickbait titles got worse. Just annoyed me to be treated with such contempt.
I watched a few Scotty videos but couldn’t tolerate the overly exaggerated animation and constant yelling. CCN is MUCH more informative all while having a pleasant personality and demeanor. Obviously many others agree as AMD now has over 1 M subscribers, congratulations!
I learned the one about the too many keys hanging from the ignition switch when I went to Auto Tech classes in 1977 to 79. Our instructor was a seasoned mechanic that told us of a customer who came in complaining that is car died every time he went over the railroad tracks. he handed them the key and for a few visits, they were never able to duplicate the problem until finally on the third or fourth visit, when they handed him back the key, they just happened to see him put it back on his keychain with about 30 other keys. He said lets take a test drive with all those keys, and they were then able to duplicate the problem.
I learned it from having a GM car that was in the recall for ignition switch problems. Their "fix" was a little slip of paper to add to your owner's manual telling you not to have anything hanging from your key while driving. Since then I've always had my car key on a latch so I can easily remove it from the rest of my keyring.
Hey ,,, that 's a good one ! Part of my job was Car stereo installation and I Can remember several times the customer had Humongous things, (like Trolls?), on the keychain. One time I had to use one hand to Lift all the junk back while the other hand turned the ignition Switch! Lol
Did you by chance go to De Anza?
@@WestZ I went to Hartnell College in Salinas, but I am familiar with De Anza in Cupertino. After I lived in Salinas Valley, I lived in San Jose for about 10 years before moving to Vancouver, Washington.
@@MoNoShocks damn, small world! Seems like the great grandfather auto techs of the 70s and 80s have the same war stories 😂. Hope all is well in the PNW!
Have done everything you recommend, including a break in oil change on my 2022 Venza. I can't believe how fortunate I was to come upon this channel right when I bought my first Toyota. I change my oil religiously every 8k (5,000 miles) and will continue to follow the Car Care Nut advice. Thank you very much.
I may even recommend doing like 3K during the first like 20K miles to make sure there's minimal metal's in the oil but you should be good.
I like 4000 mile oil changes
Too late for that, it's already got more than 20k on it, but I should be fine as I am a maniac (or Car care nut) for maintenance :)@@sacredhealstv901
@@uhhTabby What I did was 3K up to 15K then 5K after that so it was always the 5/10 numbers you know
Bought a new 24 Camry three weeks ago. Drove gently during the first 1,000 mile break-in period. Always warmed up the car first. RPM was never over 3,000. Mostly driven between 25 mph to 55 mph. Did the first oil change at 50 miles, the second at 400 miles, and the third at 1,000 miles. Each time put in Toyota 0W-16 with a Toyota oil filter. And each time the oil looked golden before the oil change. And each time the drained oil looked completely dark in a clean glass jar, and even my 1,000 lums high-powdered flashlight couldn't shine thru. One thing for sure is that I'll need to change oil every 3000 miles for sure.
Top-notch advice as usual. If you own a Toyota and follow The Car Care Nut, you're pretty much all set.
He has points that are valid for any vehicle.
@@donreinke5863 You make a valid point Mr. interweb helper!
How come he can't be my next door neighbor, very least local shop. 😢
Scotty got me on toyotas to be fair
@@kychristell1779 Although he knows what hes talking about some of the time, I often disagree with him.
I have the experience and knowledge to easily match his having been in automotive repair for 51 years.
I repair Toyotas (and all other cars) but i dont own one, and never will.
I will, however flip them for profit.
My father was a retired diesel and gasoline senior Master technician. He taught me everything automotive, but a channel like this provides updates as automobiles have dramatically changed over the decades. I am able to manage an automotive repair shop, my 3rd career after military retirement, but also educate customers. These are excellent points made by AMD. Thank you once again!
No.1 Trade in your 2004 instead of just fixing it.
No. 2 Keep the gasoline BETWEEN 1/4 and 3/4. If you let it go to click point. It will kill the evap module.
No. 3 Change the oil more often than required to past the warranty point.
No. 4 flush the tranny and coolant system as required.
3 & 4 are good for the turbo too.
Who taught me? My Department of the Navy Machinist uncle.
Ever seen a Pinto with original engine and automatic transmission with 250,000 miles on it? Oh and those never got wrenched on.
He also bought Oil and Tranny fluid by the barrel. Probably a big no-no in the Californication state now.
Then returned those back in the same barrel to the recyclable operator. Start with a full one and a empty one.
I've never heard a mechanic say "the Lord bless you and keep you". Thank you for that. You made my day!!!!
Look up, JOHN RUTTER.
You'll be inspired.
1 don't run the fuel tank low, it kills the fuel pump. Also don't overfill your tank, use the recommended gas: e85, premium, etc.
2 know the basics about your car, will guide your maintenance. Ie if you have direct injection, you need a once a week Italian tune up. Also if you drive short distances this also applies. Avoid short trips. If you have a turbocharged engine: maintenance is critical, especially oil change. Avoid long oil change intervals: cut the manufacturers intervals in half (they only apply to specific use scenarios.
3 don't hang things on things that are not hangers: hanging a bag on the shifter, steering column, rear view mirror. This kills the mechanism = LT damage. don't have too many things on your keychain, it wears the cylinder.
4 don't use windex (ammonia based cleaners), it kills touch screens and tints immediately
5 car floods, that are internal. Especially sun roof leaks, clogged sun roof drains. Otherwise poor windshield replacement / poor seals.
What this video forgot to mention is the car brands KNOW you want to keep your tank 100% full. So they design the entry port so that the nozzle is at a slightly steeper angle. This raises the tip a little bit so you can safely squeeze another quart in before it shuts off. Like so many of the tips on this video, you could avoid these issues if you read your dang instruction book! I read mine and the last two cars I've owned said the angle of the port is steeper so the tank is 99.99% full. Both had in big bold letters: "DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR TANK." It said once the nozzle clicks, it's full. Don't try to squeeze the handle a second time!
@@largol33t12Rather than forgotten, I think the tip about not over filling the tank was reduced to layman's terms for non technical types that don't care about the fluid dynamics. Problem is owners manuals have gone from 30 pages to 300 pages with a separate 500 page manual for the infotainment and they over warn about common sense. They have a lot of words directed to 12 people who were not savy enough to get out of jury duty.
@@MoNoShocks Not entirely correct - they have a lot of words directed at 12 people who did tremendously stupid things with their cars that caused an expensive problem who then threatened to sue the manufacturers.
Yes, we know, we all know, we JUST watched the video.
Thank You Captain Obvious
Thanks for this!
The Car Care Nut is the only person I trust on YT. He speaks in detail topics that NOBODY else on YT talks about. All these other Car Review channels just read scripts and really know nothing about them! Koodos to The Car Care Nut for a successful 2023 and to a bright 2024!
Scotty Kilmer, Uncle Tony's Garage and, Powell Machine Inc. 😉
Not correct, John Cadogan tells it like it is. He’s an engineer. His review on the PHEV Mitsubishi Outlander was outstanding. Him and 2 other engineers reviewed it on his channel.
@@ricksanford6485 His channel offers no substance. It’s pure unadulterated click bait. Mind you that style seems to win out with most, but not me.
@@ricksanford6485I disagree I love Scotty and think he hilarious. Sure he has a bias with Toyotas but can you really fault him for his opinions? And honestly I think it’s brilliant with his click bait. I’ve learned a bit through him as well as other mechanics channels.
Scotty knows what he is talking about..
One thing I do is, I get in the car and start the engine. Then I get comfortable, put on the seat belt, check the mirrors and the instrument panel, then I am good to go. I do this because, although it only take a minute, the oil pressure has built up all around the engine.
As a tech myself I can say you give solid advice. Keep doing good for car owners.
I'm not surprised this channel has grown so fast. You give sound advice, come across as sincere and seem like you truly care about the average person out there taking care of their car. Here's to 1M subs soon!
I learned a lesson with glass cleaners in my wife's Mazda CX-5. Cleaned the infotainment screen with glass cleaner and it took off the anti reflective coating on it. It looked like something was smeared on it at first, so I kept cleaning and after a while, realized I screwed up. Ended up cleaning off the rest of the coating and buying a tempered glass screen protector. Don't do what I did.
That's frustrating. Why can't they use the same kind of screens that are on our cell phones?? That would take care of the problem. Golly, mine even runs some Android OS programs so it can sync with my phone.
You use electronic cleaner like Endust. It's like a liquid film cleaner. It's designed to clean TVs, monitors, laptop, etc. I wouldn't use Windex on my $350 1440p monitor or 4k TV. Endust is also anti static. I have a 2019 Mazda3 and I used Endust and then put a screen protector on. Center console protector helps too with Mazda.
@@largol33t12because phone screens are gorilla glass. They don't want much sharp glass during an accident. Phone glass break in sharp shards, side windows are safety glass, and front windshields are laminated glass that don't shatter into pieces. It's designed to stop a deer from flying through your windshield. Side glass is designed to break into little cubes in emergency cases.
Yer not the “lone stranger” here. I did the “Exact” same thing you did.
Those cleaners eat up the plastic on the touch screen ( for EVERYTHING) phone , temp ,time ect ect . Ask me how I know 😄😵💫💩Thankfully I got it replaced under warranty. 🥵
I always keep my wife’s RAV4, my Corolla and my GX460 in full. Once the clicker stops at the pump, I place the cap back on. Once 1/4 of the fuel is consumed we refuel back again and the tank is always full. An emergency where to arise we jump in the vehicle and on the road we go. Thanks for the video. Take care!
sounds like they see enough use that it's not a problem, I'm more on the "leave enough gas in the tank to get to the gas station and fuel up when I need to drive somewhere/consider pouring fuel stabilizer in the tank between drives" end of the spectrum
@@xXx_Regulus_xXxmjne is a similar approach. Whenever I see that I have around 100-150km left in the tank, I go refuel. In case of an emergency situation, 100km is far enough where I can find a gas station around in Europe. 😊
Some years ago, I had an '07 Altima. Started hearing water sloshing around in the driver's side door. Found a rubber drain plug at the bottom of the door, pulled it and watched a few gallons of water come out! I was somewhat amazed that I didn't have any issues with the electronics in the door. I probably would have if I hadn't addressed it quickly after noticing.
Watching you naturally Improv these videos the way you do is pretty cool. Your knowledge of cars is incredible, but your ability to articulate these things to the masses is the best!
You mean being naturally honest about what you know and not reading scripts 😂
@@Nightrunnergunner yes. Have you ever spoken publicly or even on camera, without a script? 99.9% of the population cannot pull that off.
I was an autobody technician for 34 years and have seen it all. Please listen to this advice 100%
Please listen to this man! As a collision technician, myself, please stop hanging your handicap placards from the mirror while driving. First, it’s illegal (says so on the card), but I see a lot of collisions happen because drivers create a blind spot and couldn’t see.
No Windex on a touch screen! Wow, I haven't done this but I can see myself doing it without thought. Great tip.
As someone who babies my car, I needed to hear the tip about occasional hard driving for the engine!
Haha, Most men don't baby their car unless it's a collectible. As a female, I do a lot of travel in my car and I open it up every so often and I love it. Sometimes I can't resist. When fuel is cheaper I go for a longer trip eg 2 hours. Highways where you can open it up is better and do it during non-peak times and watch out for police. lol
OH, I just realised. That might be the Italian in me? Or is it because I grew up on a farm. lmao. Weird.
I love my 2019 Tundra, yes it’s a V8, and yes it’s thirsty, I know about the fuel pump thing. But i never let it get below 1/2 tank. A 38 gallon gas tank is quite expensive on empty. 😊
Love the "Italian Tune Up".... works every time!
Italian Tune-up is also needed for battery maintenance if all the daily driving consists of short, street driving. Battery doesn't get properly charged unless the vehicle is ridden continuously over 60 mph and at or above 2500 RPMs for 30 minutes or more.
Good stuff! I'm a huge fan of doing a break-in oil change. I've done this at 1000-1500 miles on every new vehicle I've ever purchased, and every 5000 miles thereafter, with a quality synthetic oil. This simple rule has served my vehicles very well for decades.
With regards to the "flooding" without the flood, may I add that the cowl panel (gutter under the windshield) is also another source of flooding if left unchecked. Dead leaves, insects, gunk get squeezed inside it which eventually clogs the small drain on each side of the cowl panel. In time water will build up then overflow into the aircon duct (correct me if I'm wrong)😊 which will trickle down in the front passenger side.
True that $8,000 repair
Once the leaves start falling, I periodically clean it out with the leaf blower.
Excellent video as usual. For preventing flooding I would also consider to clear the firewall well of any leaves. You might need to take off the window wiper arms to get there, but it might be worth it.. Greasing up the connecting arms when you are in there is also a good idea.
I agree.
I had a '90 Dodge Grand Caravan which needed attention in this area. This car was parked outdoors under incense cedar trees which drop their scale-like needles as small bits. Those bits easily passed into the "well" and slowly clogged the drain tube, causing water to collect and then overflow and leak into the cabin floor.
Once clogged, it wasn't too hard to clear with compressed air, an easy DIY if you have a compressor. But still, better to avoid the water overflow by making sure that the drain system is clear before the start of rainy season.
Fortunately, my Sienna does not have this problem. Thank you Toyota!
True and very well explained. Just want to share one advice from my personal experience. Those diy sound/dust proofing rubber seal strips for the doors, trunk and bonnet. They worked great in reducing the amount of dust and wind noise in the cabin but it didn't cross my mind that the seal around the bonnet was doing more harm than good. It basically prevented effective dissipation of heat in the engine bay and that somehow caused a premature death of the battery. It could have been worse if I hadn't noticed this soon enough.
Thank you AMD, from Washington, Oklahoma. Your videos teach me a lot as always. Sure would be cool to take a road trip and meet you some day. God bless you and yours!
I bought a new 01 tacoma 4 cyl new - have always done oil changes regularly - originally at 3000 miles; now with better oils, i go 5k. The truck has 225k on it now and never uses a drop of oil between changes and runs exactly like it did when new. One great truck, but you have to consider oil changes an investment in the car's future.
Amd, you’re 💯 right on the sunroof drain. Exactly what you said would happen, happened on our Sienna. Now we have electrical issues and a messed up interior. Keep up with those drains folks!
I've done my own valves but the tip on the keys was new to me. Always learning even "simple" things.
Yep...had windshield replaced and opted for OEM only. They had stock windshields, but I accepted the minor cost upgrade and waited a day or two for it. Tech came to the house and told me he was glad I opted for OEM. Perfect install every time and there are no clarity issues with OEM. My experience.
Thank you sir for another informative video! I wish I could see your videos earlier when I bought my first car, so that I would not miss my first 5k miles oil change. Keep up the great work and thank you again!
God Bless you and your family too...2024 and beyond. I enjoy your videos. I used your review of the CX 50 turbo and also the video about turbos. I decided on the non turbo model.
What a great and solid advises. The only guy that I listen to in general when it comes to my toyota (T4R) and in general car care. 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
the intro music is terrific. this is my favorite topic.. thank you for the great video. Learned so many new things.
Merry Christmas AMD, TCCN Team and 918,000 SUBSCRIBERS !!!🎄🎄 If you live in the Salt Belt, Number 1 should be , NEVER forget to rust proof the nice new car you just
spent a fortune on!!!!😁
Yes but be careful where you take it. It could be worse.
Simple and clean. The Car Care Nut way! Great video!
Great tips, AMD. Thank you for sharing these with us so we are more aware and can be proactive.
Valuable tips! I learned a couple new things. Thank you very much!
Thanks for your explanation on the fuel pump issue. I always fill to the top but usually don't fill till near empty. Have never had a failure from any vehicle in 40 years of driving but didn't know I was doing any harm either.
The fact that you fill up the tank helps, rather than keeping it on low all the time.
The harm takes 41 years to materialise😅.
I refuel till the pump clicks off and don't put anymore gas in.
I used to let it run low before filling it, after a preventable expensive azz repair (fuel pump) not any more.
the "low fuel level kills pumps" thing is a bit of a myth. Running it OUT of gas will kill your pump if you do it regularly. The only time your fuel pump is submerged is when the tank is 3/4 or higher, depending on the dimensions of your fuel tank. Your fuel pump is cooled by the fuel flowing through it, not around it, so as long as you don't regularly run it OUT of gas then you aren't harming it. When you run out of gas your pump will run dry and continue to run dry which is definitely going to kill it. However, running it low on fuel but not completely out, will not damage the fuel pump.
Very informative video! Thank you! I change my turbo Audi every 6mo or 5k miles, definitely not what is in the maintenance section of the manual.❤️🇺🇸
Always offering the best advices ever, thank you AMD and wish you a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year !
You changed my thinking on the oil change interval. Your explanation as to why makes perfect sense. I now do it 2X a year (every 6 months). Thank you.
Im Italian and do the same for my old body
push it hard twice a week in the gym or in the yard.
We get carboned up too!
Im direct ijectiln...
but less often as before😼😻
In the old days fuel pumps were mounted on the engine block. I remember replacing a few on my '70's cars. I've had the luxury of having friends who were Auto Mechanics/Technicians who told me in the early days of gas tank mounted fuel pumps "the gasoline keeps your fuel pump cool". They suggested to keep the gas tank always above 1/4 full. This was after my 1984 Dodge Daytona had to have it's fuel pump replaced, because I'd wait for the "idiot" fuel light to come on before re-fuelling. I was young (and a bit broke), but not stupid, I just didn't realize fuel pumps had moved from the engine block to the gas tank and the impact that had. When I get below half a tank now, I just fill it up... it's EZ fuel pump maintenance. 😄👍
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to You and your family.❤❤
This channel is a real deal.
Thanks for your info Sir.
Good info on sunroof, my 98 Camry would leak onto driver side floor. I always had to clean out the pine needles from the drain channels
I have a 2007 Avalon, 2Gr fe. It has 92k miles. I love to give it an "Italian tune-up" not all the time, but at least weekly. When that engine is approaching 6k rpm's it sounds glorious to me, kinda like the sound of a jet engine spooling up. 😊
@@efil4kizum It is a thrill, and the car likes it too! If you're in the Camp of scoffing at the Avalon as a boring old car, you'd be wrong. It has the heart of a lion.
Even the 2nd gen Avalons with the 1mz are very nice when you open the throttle up.
V6's tend to sound nice at high RPM and full throttle.
I have an 2011 Acura TSX and live very close to work, but I drive to a large city every week to visit my kids and grandkids that is 76 miles away, so it gets some road miles too. I can't wait to do the italian tuneup next time!
@@user-qd1dk5ko9c😂look out for cops they pop out like mushrooms on weekends
This guy is a legend. He just actually is a car care nut and wants to save you money. ie. his oil change recommendation. Would love to know your thoughts on the new crazy low weight oils, especially on engines like the 1gr-fe that used to recommend heavy oil.
In the FJ cruiser, they seem to recommend diffrent oil weights for diffrent countries. I am convinced it has more to do with pollution regulations than what is good for your engine. I run 5-w30 as I do not have extreme temperatures in either direction to deal with, and there are plenty of people with 300,000+ mile FJ engines running it.
Most technicians are not going to have an opinion on light oils for example outside of the manufacturer recommendations, Project Farm on U-Tube done testing comparing the light oils verses the heavier versions, and even though the testing favored the heavier oils, since he has a large audience he wouldn’t recommend anything different than manufacturer recommended oils, I won’t use the light ECO oils outside of my vehicle’s warranty period, excessive oil consumption and premature engine wear is attributed to these from all the research I’ve done!
I built an ls engine years ago after being familiar with old small block Chevys. When I measured the bearing clearance I almost panicked, instead of .002 to .0025 I measured.001 to .0015, this is within spec and worn out is .002 to .0025, worn out on an ls is new spec on an older engine. Moral of the story use the oil the manufacturer recommends, it is the correct oil for the tight tolerances of modern engines. Measurements are in inches.
Vehicles with VVT need lighter oils because the oil has to do double duty as it lubricates and acts as a hydraulic fluid! Now, with the popularity of turbochargers, the oil has to do triple duty, lubricant, hydraulic fluid, and coolant!! Use the correct oil and keep it clean!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
All else being equal, heavier oils will protect better due to a thicker film. But not all else is equal. A lot of lower weight oils make up for that with their additives...
I found your channel right after I bought my 6 speed 2021 Toyota Corolla SE hatchback and I've followed your advice. She runs perfectly. Thank you!
That is the car I want
These are superb tips, tips that are not talked about enough! I have told people about the “Italian Tune-Up” many times to eye rolling and laughter, but it is absolutely true! Had a commercial pilot friend who had a v12 Jaguar that he said he never got it above 80mph! I told him that he was ruining engine…had to have major engine work done…
Always excellent information for us. Thanks!
I am glad you addressed windshield issues. I got a crack a little while ago on my windshield on my 200 LC. Didn’t think anything about it because where I am from in Canada almost everyone has a cracked windshield because of ice and the city sanding the roads. Once the snow started to melt and roads got slushy I noticed my fog lights would stay on even when headlights were off. Took it into the dealership they couldn’t find the problem after running it through the car wash 4 times. It was good for about 2 weeks and then we got rain the problem was back except now the door sensors were acting funny but this time it was on and off and it turns out the windshield was leaking and it took 4 months to get a new windshield in. Fun stuff but don’t sit on a cracked windshield.
learned this the hard way down south of you. I got unlucky and a rock hit my windshield on the highway, and while I was setting aside money to have it filled, temperature fluctuations grew the crack from "maybe I can just get this filled" to "you need a replacement windshield," it sucks
One of my vehicles is a 1941 GMC CCKW 353. It has an inline 6, I don't think there's even a turbo for that. But you did say 'modern'. But my stepfather used to say that it doesn't cost any more to keep the top half of the tank full.
Lots of good advice on this one, thanks for the video!
I rarely agree with all points in an advice video; yours is spot on!
Such a great blessing to us Car Care Nuts!!!
He definitely is!!
All excellent points and advice. I keep topping the tank - I seem to have self worth tied to it somehow. My old convertible - like the sunroof idea - if you take the top cloth off - it is literally like an eve-trough around the cabin area - and it is nothing fancy, a metal trough or channel and if you drive in winter or leave it outside or drive it in a bad rainfall - it is like camping in a tent with the rain driving at whatever speed you drive that car. I had to get very good at top repair and I increasingly did not like that design at all for when I could see it when fixing things up. I always omitted the sunroof in cars (I remember my Dad installing a sunroof in the Civic I eventually bought - but that design it stood up about an inch and the sunroof top would cover it like a dome - and it was not perfect - as I had to replace the seal every couple years). I am often tempted to get a sunroof - it is perception as many people will just not get a car without one - but thus far I have always said "a model without the sunroof" (they were very bad from crashes as well - maybe seatbelt use solved that).
New subbie here & first I want to thank you for this information!❤ My plan for car care has been to take it to the dealer regularly and hope for the best. This always made me uncomfortable, but I wasn’t sure what else to do. But with your channel I feel I’ll have good advice from someone who isn’t trying to sell me something. Second: You’re such a great speaker I think I’d watch your channel no matter what it was about. Finally, when people complain about social media’s effects on society they’re overlooking fine folks like you who seem to make content for the love of it! (Sure, videos are monetized & TH-camrs sell merch, etc., but that all takes time and $$$) So again, thank you so much!
Hi Ahmed, another great video of things not to.
If I may add what you mentioned on previous video is Flooding your engine compartment. Some people want showroom clean engine, however cleaning with water especially high pressure cleaner on electrical components can lead to expensive damage. The trick is try and dry clean frequently not allowing it to be very dirty or oily and if you can use non damaging dry cleaning methords.
Now on short trips I will move the shifter from automatic to the standard shift side and hold it in a lower gear to keep the rpm higher. That way I can get the Italian tune up without the ticket.
smart, I've also seen on another channel to run the car at higher RPMs when you use a fuel system cleaner so it works more effectively
This is the best video on car advice I think I've ever seen. This guy makes so much sense! Living in the snow belt I would just add keeping your car clean in the winter as much as possible on the undercarriage and also keeping the paint nice and new looking for as long as possible.
This needs a part 2 chapter.
Thank you Sir for your updated advise.
Gracias por sus consejos
Es una persona de admirar 🙏🏻
Nunca cambie, personas cómo usted, necesita este mundo.
While in college my wife and I both had newish civics. Mine had a key that was to close to the steering wheel and my keys would get stuck in the area between the steering wheel and column. Her Civic we lemon pawed because the sunroof drains plugged and molded the interior. Funny to hear both of those things here!
You’re “spot-on” with your advice, luckily for me I’ve been doing everything you’ve advised!
This video should be required viewing for any car owner. I just forwarded it to my daughter because it’s that important yet so clear and easy to follow. Thank you again!
Been a mechanic over 20 and I agree with every point you touch on and have told people this for years, especially about OIL CHANGES. Hopefully with capital letters someone might get it. Also about hanging things on the switches and a heavy key ring. Several times they wanted a warranty on a switch but they drove it in even telling me that they can't hang something because it's broken now... Well... They broke it amd that's not warranty.
Keep up the good advice to people and hopefully most will listen.
So I’ve been wondering about this and curious if you might have an opinion, on the 2024 CX-5 which apparently has carbon build up, is it a dumb or a bad thing to run, let’s say only a few ounces of Lucas gas treatment every couple fill ups and during the red line periods to try to help with the carbon build up.
@@guitarplayer4429 my stance on gas additives is this, it can't hurt to put an additive every other tank or so, they are lubricants and detergents, preventative things, however by no means a fix for something. Some say they have fixed their car with it, but I have personally never seen a car fixed with an additive not once in my life even with the car that was claimed to be put in.
Maintenance.... I personally do what you are asking every few tanks for the exact reason you're asking about.
I own a 2015 2.2 Diesel CX-5 & know a good bit about this. Just had my engine inlet manifold de-cocked after 105K miles (Waaaay too late) , should have been done around 50K miles in my opinion. This is despite always adding a quality fuel aditive and taking it for long runs every now and then. Also, carbon blocked some of the sensors & needed replacing@@guitarplayer4429
I use a carabiner to coral keys on my purse. A separate carabiner has just the car and house key for car and walking cuz the heavy keychain drives me crazy and is too heavy. Glad I was doing that right.
@@guitarplayer4429 I put in a " gas treatment '" in my gas every few tanks. I will completely disagree with someone that says it fixes anything, but for preventative maintenance.... It's what I personally do. Putting some detergent in the fuel from my experience is good
Wishing you a Merry Christmas to you and your family. God Bless
Great advice as always. Love this channel. Stuff hanging from mirrors etc is a pet peeve of mine lol
Very nice presentation, thank you. All of your points are notable especially the leakage problems with sunroofs. Keep up the good work see you at your next show.
I Just Love that man. Cheers from Germany. Owning a Toyota Auris, doing 300.000 Miles now with your Tips. Never Had an issue. Magical.
Thanks for these tips! I didn't think that my occasional punching of the engine to get to freeway speed on the on-ramp was helping the engine in terms of carbon buildup because otherwise I don't accelerate aggressively at all to save fuel and general wear and tear.
Not only does it help, it’s fun!
And if you drive a manual car, it’s even more fun!
You do not need to accelerate agressively. Just driving a long distance with 70 miles/h will burn the coal clean off. With long I mean several hours.
I've never got expensive repairs on y diesel turbo car. Not in 200000 miles. Not even with the distribution chain (not a belt). But the car drove 4-8 times a year for 13 hours on a day. With this 70 (to 90, Germany has no limit) milesph (120-150 km/h).
Oil changes once a year...it was never black when checked in between , not a lot of metal dust in the oil).
Max acceleration I only do when I want to pass another car when not on highways.
I drive my 2023 Camry in sport mode every now and then to burn off the carbon.
@@thomasmiddlebrooke1012 hehe yup it really is fun!
I’m an old retired mechanic from 1973. Cadillacs in the 1970s had big time carbon buildup. Used to perform Italian tune ups. Black dust flying out of exhaust. 👍🏼
Agree 100% with your opinion on glass! Safelite backs their work! I had a family member use “the cheaper place” they found and the windshield leaked so bad it cost $1000’s in electrical damages.
Today I’m taking out my 2008 Prius and will red line it. Hoping to get up to 100MPH to do my weekly Italian Tune Up. I have 205,000 on it. Maybe I get another 200,000 miles. I will stop topping off my tank. I always get an oil change between 3,000-4,000 miles. I love my old work horse Prius. I think it’s one of the best cars ever built. I paid $7500 cash for it in 2015. Everyone I knew laughed at me for getting it and getting rid of my truck. I replaced the main hybrid battery at about 170,000 miles. I have no other major issues.
@@phillipbanes5484a Prius doesn't have gears. eCVT.
I hope you got the ones they just cover for free if it fails?
I don’t think he means drive exceeding the Limit.
@@djkenny1202 Since this post I bought a 2024 Corolla Hybrid LE. I love it. It’s been getting 55-62 MPG. Awesome little car
@@WindsurferHD that’s very cool. I bought a 15 Scion XB manual in 2020 with only 31k, has only 47,800k, now. It was only $11,500, worth more now than when I bought it. I’m holding out several years. I drive 3000 miles per year average. New cars are incredibly expensive. But, good choice!
I’m a retired mechanic and this is my favorite U Tube channel.
Anyone fortunate enough to live near this guy’s shop has got it made if they drive a Toyota or Lexus.
I wish have close to Ahmed shop
Sooo informative and helpful, as you said!! Thanks again!!
I love the comparison you did Honda hybrid vs Toyota. I learned a lot. I went to the ford escape hybrid 2023. I’m getting over 40 mpg and it is getting better gaining 0.1 mpg every time I drive it. The drive system is very smooth. I would like to see you break it down like you did the Honda/toyota comparison.
I'm still old school and I do my oil changes at 3,000 miles with synthetic oil and factory filter.
I've never have seen an engine go bad changing the oil too often.
Thanks for your video..
If you don't already have one, I would suggest a Fumoto drain valve. It makes changes so much easier
If I use synthetic is it ok to do every 5000?
@@terrycrews1760 There are many factors (driving style, turbos, weather extremes) that can effect when you should change your oil.
Many videos that have actually sent oil samples out for analysis at various change intervals, after normal non-extreme driving, indicate that a good oil (like a synthetic) begins to exhibit noticeable wear at ~ 10k miles. And some manufacturers recommend 10K oil changes but realize that they only warranty the power train for 60K miles.
Old school (pre 1990) oil changes were recommended at every 3k miles but oil and filters have greatly advanced beyond those recommendations. While it may be a little premature to change synthetic oil every 5k miles or every year whichever comes first, it is not that expensive and should give you peace of mind that you are doing your best to ensure a long engine life.
@@clarkkent9080 thanks for your detailed response! Super helpful!
You should be fine, that's the maximum mileage I'd wait, especially if you're running a turbo. Needless to say that a new oil filter should be fitted at the same time. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.@@terrycrews1760
To add on the turbo maintenance; people should not be driving their turbo vehicles hard and then turning them off. The vehicle should run for a minute or two to let oil cycle and cool the turbo if you are about to turn the car off and just finished a spirited drive.
Or fit a turbo timer. 1-2 minutes it'll switch the engine off for you. 👍
Modern cars have electric pumps that cool the turbo when it’s hot and the car shuts off. You can hear the buzzing noises after you park your car.
How tf you gonna cool something by having it running
@@thegreat9481 you understand that turbos are cooled with flowing oil right?
I've known about that from hot rodders for a long time. Some hot rodders even install a delay in their ignition. They can remove the key but the ignition timer kicks in and the engine runs for 75 seconds before turning off even if the key is out. Clever.
Good, helpful video. Just replaced the windshield on our BMW X1 with OEM glass and will certainly be looking for leaks. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. I knew all of these hints except the “Italian tune up”. I thought that conservative driving would be good for the engine. I’m going to “tune up” my car more often. THANKS!
In a way I have the same sort of thought process about power window motors. The only ones I've had trouble with are the ones I don't use frequently like the rear ones so I try to remember to regularly operate them just to work out the moisture and move around the lubrication. I once disassembled a rear window motor to fix it and all I had to do was clean out all of the moisture related crust and build up inside the motor from disuse. It was fine after that. Similar idea with starter motors. I would get into debates with delivery drivers who insist on just idling their cars so they didn't have to use their starter motor too much to save it. But I've had fewer starter fails during my delivery jobs even though I was using it many dozens of times a day. It's a motor it wants to be used.
Regarding not filling up all the way being a bad policy for technical reasons, it also costs more. The amount of gas you use is based on the miles you drive. So reducing your driving is the only way to lower fuel costs. Filling up partially often means you have to waste gas going out of your way to fill up additional times.
Great great video...a lot of common sense that a lot of people seem to forget or ignore...thanks.
Fantastic guy, fantastic channel. Merry Christmas and above all thank you!
Great that you’re expanding car care beyond just Toyota Lexus. It’s unfortunate that most people don’t know how to maintain a vehicle. DIY is rarer today than in decades past. Just adding gas and driving. Not even checking the dipstick or battery.
Part of the reason for less DIY is that cars are also more complex and more electrical/computerized. I know people who do work on the side on older cars but won't touch newer ones due to the complexity.
@@sharonthehuman5954 you can still maintain and work on newer cars. Your belief is false.
For the screen, I installed a screen protector that doesn't affect the touch sensitivity. It makes it easier to keep the screen clean. And always try to use microfibers to prevent scratching.
In Acura we have dreaded touchpad, but at least we never touch the screen 😂
I wish the police would crack down on that ! When I was growing up, it was the dice hanging from the mirrors. Now it’s the cell phones mounted right in their view! I saw one FULL SIZE IPad mounted right on top of his dashboard!
I’ve looked on Amazon for a screen protector for my RAV4, but I cant find any; where did you get yours?
Yep! I ran into that with my 2000 Trans am with my t-tops. A 🤏🏻 small twig got into one of my drains for the t-top. Now what I've been doing since that happened is I pull the t-tops off 2 months and clean and lubricant all the rubber seals, whipe down the channels and blow out the drains with compress air.
Your videos are amazing and have helped me learn so much about car care. Thank you.
13:30 OEM touchscreens are expensive because their size is arbitrary, so its a low volume production item, and they also have to not freeze in winter weather so their composition is a little different.
Yes automotive grade is a lot different than consumer grade with electronics. Ask Tesla they had screens in the model s failing early on when they decided to use consumer grade screens.
@@thetechlibrarian I guess that would work fine in California but not the rest of the world lol
Question AMD, on the maintenance schedule it's stated that every once in a while if driven in harsh conditions it is necessary to "tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body". Can you make a video explaining this?
Omg!!
I feel so guilty on all fronts. (Hangings things from the mirror and steering wheel, letting the gas tank get low, delaying my oil changes because I hardly drive, not letting my 2001 Sienna warm up in the windy city cold before driving it, ring of keys weighing down the ignition.
Thank you so much for steering us in the right direction.
I love your Videos, very entertaining. The way you speak makes it all wonderful.
I didn't know that finer detail on the "Italian tune-up." Granted a 30+ mile highway commute each way I figured kept the vehicle humming better, but maybe it is time I push the humble Camry a little harder some days.
Any car except a diesel...they wont tolerate RPM over 3000 rpm in most cases.
I know if I redline or close to redline, my Rav4 is going to give me a bad driving score, lol.
@@donreinke5863your so wrong about diesels. They get so much carbon build up. You have to drive them hard.
@@yeahboi355 Uh, NO.
3000rpm is winding most diesels high except a few in passenger cars. Peugeot had a high rpm diesel and even it wasnt close to redline on a gasoline engine.
Take a look at the tach redline on most light duty diesel trucks. 3000-3500 is about the limit. Even less for big diesels, even the 2 stroke "screaming" Detroits.
Sorry you dont have the experience I do. Youll learn...maybe.
@@sharonthehuman5954 Simply select a lower gear..the RPMs will come up in a hurry, likely at or below the speed limit.
I was taught the Italian tune-up when I was a teenager. My mom would get mad that I would do it. I explained to her why to do it and how often and she sort of accepted it...but she doesn't ever do it herself.
Ma! My mom is who taught me to do it!! She was a pretty good car nut
He REALLY knows what is talking about......love this channel a lot. Lots of sound advices..
Loved the lighting. As a photographer I appreciate the attention to detail and all the production values in TH-cam videos. 👏👏👏
2:40, for the most part, yes, I agree with this. However, when your vehicle comes with a turbo I would suggest using premium even though the manufacturer suggests regular, a turbo will benefit from the more accurate combustion timing from premium and will rely far less on the monitoring systems implemented to reduce knock
I agree 100% people should never use cheap gas either.
A superb video.
2008 SAAB 9-5 since new.
-Always put the mandated premium fuel in the tank.
-Always change the Mobil 1 0w-40 every 3-4,000 miles.
-Always change the engine air filter with every oil change.
-Always change cabin air filter every 12, 000 miles.
I live in the city and am often forced to park under trees. Every week I clear out leaves. I also stop by my mechanic every month for him to blowout the sunroof drain.
Lately I haven't been using thr car much, but make sure to drive it on the highway and do a longer run ever 7-10 days.
The SAAB now has 135,000 miles, with no issues of which you speak. And it's turbocharged. My next car--and hopefully that will be years down the road--will be a normally aspirated Toyota or Lexus ES. To date since new, I've spent $5,300 on all labor, parts and fluids...including exhaust and suspension. That's $5,300 in over 15 years.
@@phillipbanes5484 Thanks Phillip. My indy SAAB master tech is 30 miles from my home. I'm in that area occasionally and do service when needed. I bring him my 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 ($14 after rebate at Walmart) , Mann oil filter ($5) and Mann air filter ($10) and he changes all for $25. Not bad for a synthetic oil change for $54. It's also a matter of convenience. I unfortunately do a lot of stop and go city driving, which also hastens more frequent changes.