0:25 dont overfill or run dry ur gas 2:55 take care of your engine (don't drive all city miles; avoid short trips; warm up the car) 8:10 don't hang things where you shouldn't (don't hang things on shifters, steering, mirrors; 12:18 don't use "Windex" or glass cleaner on infotainment system screens/surfaces (ammonia harms touchscreens) 14:15 car floods: sunroof-drains (clean them) & windshield (improper replacement installation)
@kychristell1779 Although he knows what hes talking about some of the time, I often disagree with him. I have the experience and knowledge to easily match his having been in automotive repair for 51 years. I repair Toyotas (and all other cars) but i dont own one, and never will. I will, however flip them for profit.
@kychristell1779 I will try to keep it brief, but here is a short list of Toyota failure. 90s Camry 4 cylinders..Engine "oil gelling" issues which Toyota actually admitted to, but didnt issue a recall. 3.0V-6 engines used throughout the 90s in 4-Runners and trucks. These had well known head gasket as well as valve seat recession issues. Again, Toyota refused to recall them, but would replace the head gaskets for free ONE time IF customers complained excessively, and was never publicized. Prius brake issues. The regenerative brake system had glitches which caused several Prius to crash due to brake failure. Toyota stupidly refused to cooperate with a Federal investigation, earning them a record one billion dollar fine from the NTSB. Really dumb mistake..Badly designed throttle pedals on Camry models causing them to get caught on floor mats, resulting in partially or fully open throttle. Lower ball joints on first generation Tundra trucks, which would rust out and drop the front end on the pavement while driving. Poor heat treating of differential gears on trucks, causing failure. At one time it was nearly impossible to find used differentials at wrecking yards as the demand was so high for them. While certain vehicles and engines were very well made, such as the 22R and 22RE 4 cylinders, the 1980s era Camrys and the newer 3.4 V-6 engine, theyve had enough major issues that Im not overly enamored with Toyota. The majority of automatic transmissions used in Jeep Cherokee models were sourced from Toyota, and they have proven to have few issues, even when ill maintained. Not so true of the Peugeot sourced BA-10 manual transmission used in the Cherokee. While I repair late model vehicles regularly, my daily drivers are 39 and 47 year old Fords devoid of electronic systems except for electronic ignition which has only two easily replaced components. I can easily repair my vehicles on the side of the road if ever necessary. As far as Honda/Acura, the rest of the vehicle will fall apart before the engine does, If COMPLETE timing belt service is done AND the engine is never allowed to overheat. Dont ever change JUST the timing belt..do the complete service with idlers, water pump and tensioner. This applies to ANY vehicle with a timing belt regardless of manufacturer. Vehicles with timing chains should have the hydraulic tensioner serviced.
Have done everything you recommend, including a break in oil change on my 2022 Venza. I can't believe how fortunate I was to come upon this channel right when I bought my first Toyota. I change my oil religiously every 8k (5,000 miles) and will continue to follow the Car Care Nut advice. Thank you very much.
Bought a new 24 Camry three weeks ago. Drove gently during the first 1,000 mile break-in period. Always warmed up the car first. RPM was never over 3,000. Mostly driven between 25 mph to 55 mph. Did the first oil change at 50 miles, the second at 400 miles, and the third at 1,000 miles. Each time put in Toyota 0W-16 with a Toyota oil filter. And each time the oil looked golden before the oil change. And each time the drained oil looked completely dark in a clean glass jar, and even my 1,000 lums high-powdered flashlight couldn't shine thru. One thing for sure is that I'll need to change oil every 3000 miles for sure.
Funny, I actually got stopped last month cause I was performing a drive cycle on one of my cars to get it to pass inspection. He let me go when I told him. But he just thought I was being a wise ass.
I learned the one about the too many keys hanging from the ignition switch when I went to Auto Tech classes in 1977 to 79. Our instructor was a seasoned mechanic that told us of a customer who came in complaining that is car died every time he went over the railroad tracks. he handed them the key and for a few visits, they were never able to duplicate the problem until finally on the third or fourth visit, when they handed him back the key, they just happened to see him put it back on his keychain with about 30 other keys. He said lets take a test drive with all those keys, and they were then able to duplicate the problem.
I learned it from having a GM car that was in the recall for ignition switch problems. Their "fix" was a little slip of paper to add to your owner's manual telling you not to have anything hanging from your key while driving. Since then I've always had my car key on a latch so I can easily remove it from the rest of my keyring.
Hey ,,, that 's a good one ! Part of my job was Car stereo installation and I Can remember several times the customer had Humongous things, (like Trolls?), on the keychain. One time I had to use one hand to Lift all the junk back while the other hand turned the ignition Switch! Lol
@@WestZ I went to Hartnell College in Salinas, but I am familiar with De Anza in Cupertino. After I lived in Salinas Valley, I lived in San Jose for about 10 years before moving to Vancouver, Washington.
@@MoNoShocks damn, small world! Seems like the great grandfather auto techs of the 70s and 80s have the same war stories 😂. Hope all is well in the PNW!
1 don't run the fuel tank low, it kills the fuel pump. Also don't overfill your tank, use the recommended gas: e85, premium, etc. 2 know the basics about your car, will guide your maintenance. Ie if you have direct injection, you need a once a week Italian tune up. Also if you drive short distances this also applies. Avoid short trips. If you have a turbocharged engine: maintenance is critical, especially oil change. Avoid long oil change intervals: cut the manufacturers intervals in half (they only apply to specific use scenarios. 3 don't hang things on things that are not hangers: hanging a bag on the shifter, steering column, rear view mirror. This kills the mechanism = LT damage. don't have too many things on your keychain, it wears the cylinder. 4 don't use windex (ammonia based cleaners), it kills touch screens and tints immediately 5 car floods, that are internal. Especially sun roof leaks, clogged sun roof drains. Otherwise poor windshield replacement / poor seals.
What this video forgot to mention is the car brands KNOW you want to keep your tank 100% full. So they design the entry port so that the nozzle is at a slightly steeper angle. This raises the tip a little bit so you can safely squeeze another quart in before it shuts off. Like so many of the tips on this video, you could avoid these issues if you read your dang instruction book! I read mine and the last two cars I've owned said the angle of the port is steeper so the tank is 99.99% full. Both had in big bold letters: "DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR TANK." It said once the nozzle clicks, it's full. Don't try to squeeze the handle a second time!
@@largol33t12Rather than forgotten, I think the tip about not over filling the tank was reduced to layman's terms for non technical types that don't care about the fluid dynamics. Problem is owners manuals have gone from 30 pages to 300 pages with a separate 500 page manual for the infotainment and they over warn about common sense. They have a lot of words directed to 12 people who were not savy enough to get out of jury duty.
@@MoNoShocks Not entirely correct - they have a lot of words directed at 12 people who did tremendously stupid things with their cars that caused an expensive problem who then threatened to sue the manufacturers.
The Car Care Nut is the only person I trust on YT. He speaks in detail topics that NOBODY else on YT talks about. All these other Car Review channels just read scripts and really know nothing about them! Koodos to The Car Care Nut for a successful 2023 and to a bright 2024!
Not correct, John Cadogan tells it like it is. He’s an engineer. His review on the PHEV Mitsubishi Outlander was outstanding. Him and 2 other engineers reviewed it on his channel.
@@ricksanford6485I disagree I love Scotty and think he hilarious. Sure he has a bias with Toyotas but can you really fault him for his opinions? And honestly I think it’s brilliant with his click bait. I’ve learned a bit through him as well as other mechanics channels.
One thing I do is, I get in the car and start the engine. Then I get comfortable, put on the seat belt, check the mirrors and the instrument panel, then I am good to go. I do this because, although it only take a minute, the oil pressure has built up all around the engine.
Agreed. My Brother in law volunteers at a sports car museum. They had a famous driver (can't remember his name) drive their cars on an open house day. First he did a walk around. Next started the car. Put on and checked his seat belt. Next he adjusted all the mirrors. Then he checked the gauges especially to check oil. Next he checked where all the control were and how he fit them i.e. shift stick, clutch and brakes. Ran the shifter through its pattern. Then he was ready to go. He did this for every car! I do a similar routine. The walk around is very important for safety. Are there small children in the street behind you that you couldn't see with your mirrors?
During real cold weather bouts I will buy premium gas once an awhile along with using the recommended regular gas. I was told this helps the engine start and run easier.
My father was a retired diesel and gasoline senior Master technician. He taught me everything automotive, but a channel like this provides updates as automobiles have dramatically changed over the decades. I am able to manage an automotive repair shop, my 3rd career after military retirement, but also educate customers. These are excellent points made by AMD. Thank you once again!
No.1 Trade in your 2004 instead of just fixing it. No. 2 Keep the gasoline BETWEEN 1/4 and 3/4. If you let it go to click point. It will kill the evap module. No. 3 Change the oil more often than required to past the warranty point. No. 4 flush the tranny and coolant system as required. 3 & 4 are good for the turbo too. Who taught me? My Department of the Navy Machinist uncle. Ever seen a Pinto with original engine and automatic transmission with 250,000 miles on it? Oh and those never got wrenched on. He also bought Oil and Tranny fluid by the barrel. Probably a big no-no in the Californication state now. Then returned those back in the same barrel to the recyclable operator. Start with a full one and a empty one.
Please listen to this man! As a collision technician, myself, please stop hanging your handicap placards from the mirror while driving. First, it’s illegal (says so on the card), but I see a lot of collisions happen because drivers create a blind spot and couldn’t see.
I learned a lesson with glass cleaners in my wife's Mazda CX-5. Cleaned the infotainment screen with glass cleaner and it took off the anti reflective coating on it. It looked like something was smeared on it at first, so I kept cleaning and after a while, realized I screwed up. Ended up cleaning off the rest of the coating and buying a tempered glass screen protector. Don't do what I did.
That's frustrating. Why can't they use the same kind of screens that are on our cell phones?? That would take care of the problem. Golly, mine even runs some Android OS programs so it can sync with my phone.
You use electronic cleaner like Endust. It's like a liquid film cleaner. It's designed to clean TVs, monitors, laptop, etc. I wouldn't use Windex on my $350 1440p monitor or 4k TV. Endust is also anti static. I have a 2019 Mazda3 and I used Endust and then put a screen protector on. Center console protector helps too with Mazda.
@@largol33t12because phone screens are gorilla glass. They don't want much sharp glass during an accident. Phone glass break in sharp shards, side windows are safety glass, and front windshields are laminated glass that don't shatter into pieces. It's designed to stop a deer from flying through your windshield. Side glass is designed to break into little cubes in emergency cases.
Those cleaners eat up the plastic on the touch screen ( for EVERYTHING) phone , temp ,time ect ect . Ask me how I know 😄😵💫💩Thankfully I got it replaced under warranty. 🥵
I have a 3.6 VVT engine in my 07 Cadillac CTS and I absolutely love it! I’ve heard many people complain about these engines, but I’ve never had the least problem with mine, not one! But I’m always changing the oil in it and there’s nothing but the best complete synthetic oil! I change my oil at half the intervals that the owners manual says it should be changed! So I keep good oil with it at all times, and it doesn’t use our league or burn a drop of oil and it purrs like a kitten, as if it was still new! But I believe it’s very very important to keep the oil change very Regularly and these engines, especially that one I’m told!
I'm not surprised this channel has grown so fast. You give sound advice, come across as sincere and seem like you truly care about the average person out there taking care of their car. Here's to 1M subs soon!
Yep...had windshield replaced and opted for OEM only. They had stock windshields, but I accepted the minor cost upgrade and waited a day or two for it. Tech came to the house and told me he was glad I opted for OEM. Perfect install every time and there are no clarity issues with OEM. My experience.
Thanks for all the wonderful info. I’m a 75 year old single woman who doesn’t know much about cars. Last year I bought a Prius prime because I wanted to be environmentally responsible. I’ve watched most of your videos so I can properly care for my car. You are a jewel.
Watching you naturally Improv these videos the way you do is pretty cool. Your knowledge of cars is incredible, but your ability to articulate these things to the masses is the best!
I’m a retired mechanic and this is my favorite U Tube channel. Anyone fortunate enough to live near this guy’s shop has got it made if they drive a Toyota or Lexus.
I love my 2019 Tundra, yes it’s a V8, and yes it’s thirsty, I know about the fuel pump thing. But i never let it get below 1/2 tank. A 38 gallon gas tank is quite expensive on empty. 😊
My spouse bought a fantastic new Mazda. The maintenance interval seemed so long I finally said I don’t trust a car to not be observed by a mechanic for more than 6 months. Glad to hear you agree after I pushed the issue and made the appointment. Was hoping I’m not a totally out of touch old school car guy.
I am glad you addressed windshield issues. I got a crack a little while ago on my windshield on my 200 LC. Didn’t think anything about it because where I am from in Canada almost everyone has a cracked windshield because of ice and the city sanding the roads. Once the snow started to melt and roads got slushy I noticed my fog lights would stay on even when headlights were off. Took it into the dealership they couldn’t find the problem after running it through the car wash 4 times. It was good for about 2 weeks and then we got rain the problem was back except now the door sensors were acting funny but this time it was on and off and it turns out the windshield was leaking and it took 4 months to get a new windshield in. Fun stuff but don’t sit on a cracked windshield.
learned this the hard way down south of you. I got unlucky and a rock hit my windshield on the highway, and while I was setting aside money to have it filled, temperature fluctuations grew the crack from "maybe I can just get this filled" to "you need a replacement windshield," it sucks
With regards to the "flooding" without the flood, may I add that the cowl panel (gutter under the windshield) is also another source of flooding if left unchecked. Dead leaves, insects, gunk get squeezed inside it which eventually clogs the small drain on each side of the cowl panel. In time water will build up then overflow into the aircon duct (correct me if I'm wrong)😊 which will trickle down in the front passenger side.
Good stuff! I'm a huge fan of doing a break-in oil change. I've done this at 1000-1500 miles on every new vehicle I've ever purchased, and every 5000 miles thereafter, with a quality synthetic oil. This simple rule has served my vehicles very well for decades.
Very few newer vehicle owner manuals include early first oil change requirements. My first oil change in my 2024 Supra will be after one year (4000 miles or slightly less). The first oil change in our now 19.5 year old Lexus was at 5000 miles. It still runs perfectly with over 140,000 miles.
@@davepaturno4290 What most people don't realize is that modern maint intervals, as recommended by manufacturers, are heavily influenced by environmental concerns, not best practices for vehicle longevity and reliability. I have no problem with trying to prevent unnecessary waste, which is why longer maint intervals exist today, but my top concern is protecting the long term reliability of my investment. That said, if you have a vehicle made by a quality brand, following the owner's manual won't likely cause any problems, but I'd rather be aggressive with my maint than to have any possibility of premature mechanical failures. More frequent fluids changes are cheap insurance, in my opinion.
I have a 2007 Avalon, 2Gr fe. It has 92k miles. I love to give it an "Italian tune-up" not all the time, but at least weekly. When that engine is approaching 6k rpm's it sounds glorious to me, kinda like the sound of a jet engine spooling up. 😊
@@efil4kizum It is a thrill, and the car likes it too! If you're in the Camp of scoffing at the Avalon as a boring old car, you'd be wrong. It has the heart of a lion.
I have an 2011 Acura TSX and live very close to work, but I drive to a large city every week to visit my kids and grandkids that is 76 miles away, so it gets some road miles too. I can't wait to do the italian tuneup next time!
Wow…does this hit home! I just had fuel induction cleaning on my 2021 CX5 with 28K miles on it. 99% of the time i drive is in town short trip driving. I was STUNNED at how immediately my mpg on my gauges went from 21 mpg to 26 mpg and how quickly it starts up. I will for sure take my little car for a run down the interstate once a week to blast out the filth. Thank you!
I watched a few Scotty videos but couldn’t tolerate the overly exaggerated animation and constant yelling. CCN is MUCH more informative all while having a pleasant personality and demeanor. Obviously many others agree as AMD now has over 1 M subscribers, congratulations!
I bought a new 01 tacoma 4 cyl new - have always done oil changes regularly - originally at 3000 miles; now with better oils, i go 5k. The truck has 225k on it now and never uses a drop of oil between changes and runs exactly like it did when new. One great truck, but you have to consider oil changes an investment in the car's future.
I always keep my wife’s RAV4, my Corolla and my GX460 in full. Once the clicker stops at the pump, I place the cap back on. Once 1/4 of the fuel is consumed we refuel back again and the tank is always full. An emergency where to arise we jump in the vehicle and on the road we go. Thanks for the video. Take care!
sounds like they see enough use that it's not a problem, I'm more on the "leave enough gas in the tank to get to the gas station and fuel up when I need to drive somewhere/consider pouring fuel stabilizer in the tank between drives" end of the spectrum
@@xXx_Regulus_xXxmjne is a similar approach. Whenever I see that I have around 100-150km left in the tank, I go refuel. In case of an emergency situation, 100km is far enough where I can find a gas station around in Europe. 😊
Excellent video as usual. For preventing flooding I would also consider to clear the firewall well of any leaves. You might need to take off the window wiper arms to get there, but it might be worth it.. Greasing up the connecting arms when you are in there is also a good idea.
I agree. I had a '90 Dodge Grand Caravan which needed attention in this area. This car was parked outdoors under incense cedar trees which drop their scale-like needles as small bits. Those bits easily passed into the "well" and slowly clogged the drain tube, causing water to collect and then overflow and leak into the cabin floor. Once clogged, it wasn't too hard to clear with compressed air, an easy DIY if you have a compressor. But still, better to avoid the water overflow by making sure that the drain system is clear before the start of rainy season. Fortunately, my Sienna does not have this problem. Thank you Toyota!
Italian Tune-up is also needed for battery maintenance if all the daily driving consists of short, street driving. Battery doesn't get properly charged unless the vehicle is ridden continuously over 60 mph and at or above 2500 RPMs for 30 minutes or more.
Thanks for your explanation on the fuel pump issue. I always fill to the top but usually don't fill till near empty. Have never had a failure from any vehicle in 40 years of driving but didn't know I was doing any harm either.
the "low fuel level kills pumps" thing is a bit of a myth. Running it OUT of gas will kill your pump if you do it regularly. The only time your fuel pump is submerged is when the tank is 3/4 or higher, depending on the dimensions of your fuel tank. Your fuel pump is cooled by the fuel flowing through it, not around it, so as long as you don't regularly run it OUT of gas then you aren't harming it. When you run out of gas your pump will run dry and continue to run dry which is definitely going to kill it. However, running it low on fuel but not completely out, will not damage the fuel pump.
This guy is a legend. He just actually is a car care nut and wants to save you money. ie. his oil change recommendation. Would love to know your thoughts on the new crazy low weight oils, especially on engines like the 1gr-fe that used to recommend heavy oil.
In the FJ cruiser, they seem to recommend diffrent oil weights for diffrent countries. I am convinced it has more to do with pollution regulations than what is good for your engine. I run 5-w30 as I do not have extreme temperatures in either direction to deal with, and there are plenty of people with 300,000+ mile FJ engines running it.
Most technicians are not going to have an opinion on light oils for example outside of the manufacturer recommendations, Project Farm on U-Tube done testing comparing the light oils verses the heavier versions, and even though the testing favored the heavier oils, since he has a large audience he wouldn’t recommend anything different than manufacturer recommended oils, I won’t use the light ECO oils outside of my vehicle’s warranty period, excessive oil consumption and premature engine wear is attributed to these from all the research I’ve done!
I built an ls engine years ago after being familiar with old small block Chevys. When I measured the bearing clearance I almost panicked, instead of .002 to .0025 I measured.001 to .0015, this is within spec and worn out is .002 to .0025, worn out on an ls is new spec on an older engine. Moral of the story use the oil the manufacturer recommends, it is the correct oil for the tight tolerances of modern engines. Measurements are in inches.
Vehicles with VVT need lighter oils because the oil has to do double duty as it lubricates and acts as a hydraulic fluid! Now, with the popularity of turbochargers, the oil has to do triple duty, lubricant, hydraulic fluid, and coolant!! Use the correct oil and keep it clean!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
All else being equal, heavier oils will protect better due to a thicker film. But not all else is equal. A lot of lower weight oils make up for that with their additives...
I'm still old school and I do my oil changes at 3,000 miles with synthetic oil and factory filter. I've never have seen an engine go bad changing the oil too often. Thanks for your video..
@@terrycrews1760 There are many factors (driving style, turbos, weather extremes) that can effect when you should change your oil. Many videos that have actually sent oil samples out for analysis at various change intervals, after normal non-extreme driving, indicate that a good oil (like a synthetic) begins to exhibit noticeable wear at ~ 10k miles. And some manufacturers recommend 10K oil changes but realize that they only warranty the power train for 60K miles. Old school (pre 1990) oil changes were recommended at every 3k miles but oil and filters have greatly advanced beyond those recommendations. While it may be a little premature to change synthetic oil every 5k miles or every year whichever comes first, it is not that expensive and should give you peace of mind that you are doing your best to ensure a long engine life.
You should be fine, that's the maximum mileage I'd wait, especially if you're running a turbo. Needless to say that a new oil filter should be fitted at the same time. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.@@terrycrews1760
The fuel that _goes thru_ the pump, cools it. The pump sits in a cup that is always full of fuel, because a small regulated amount returns to the cup. The example you show illustrates it perfectly. I've changed hundreds of them, they all hold about 10oz of fuel in the cup. Been that way since the mid 90's.
Absolutely, unequivocally the best auto channel, in my opinion on youtube. Seriously, there's not 1 video you make. I don't enjoy that's saying something I watch a lot of youtube.
Some years ago, I had an '07 Altima. Started hearing water sloshing around in the driver's side door. Found a rubber drain plug at the bottom of the door, pulled it and watched a few gallons of water come out! I was somewhat amazed that I didn't have any issues with the electronics in the door. I probably would have if I hadn't addressed it quickly after noticing.
Amd, you’re 💯 right on the sunroof drain. Exactly what you said would happen, happened on our Sienna. Now we have electrical issues and a messed up interior. Keep up with those drains folks!
Agree 100% with your opinion on glass! Safelite backs their work! I had a family member use “the cheaper place” they found and the windshield leaked so bad it cost $1000’s in electrical damages.
Yep! I ran into that with my 2000 Trans am with my t-tops. A 🤏🏻 small twig got into one of my drains for the t-top. Now what I've been doing since that happened is I pull the t-tops off 2 months and clean and lubricant all the rubber seals, whipe down the channels and blow out the drains with compress air.
To add on the turbo maintenance; people should not be driving their turbo vehicles hard and then turning them off. The vehicle should run for a minute or two to let oil cycle and cool the turbo if you are about to turn the car off and just finished a spirited drive.
I've known about that from hot rodders for a long time. Some hot rodders even install a delay in their ignition. They can remove the key but the ignition timer kicks in and the engine runs for 75 seconds before turning off even if the key is out. Clever.
For the screen, I installed a screen protector that doesn't affect the touch sensitivity. It makes it easier to keep the screen clean. And always try to use microfibers to prevent scratching.
I wish the police would crack down on that ! When I was growing up, it was the dice hanging from the mirrors. Now it’s the cell phones mounted right in their view! I saw one FULL SIZE IPad mounted right on top of his dashboard!
Merry Christmas AMD, TCCN Team and 918,000 SUBSCRIBERS !!!🎄🎄 If you live in the Salt Belt, Number 1 should be , NEVER forget to rust proof the nice new car you just spent a fortune on!!!!😁
I never used to believe in overfilling the gas tank being a bad thing. However, last month I kept getting a P0442 code on my mazda 3. According to the forums its either gas cap or the cannister vent valve located above the subframe. Only thing I've stopped doing since the code was on for several months was I stopped overfilling the tank but stopped as soon as the lever flicked at the pump. The light cleared by itself 2 weeks ago and hasn't been an issue since. Previously it would be on and off anytime I overfilled the tank. So guys, do not overfill!
2:40, for the most part, yes, I agree with this. However, when your vehicle comes with a turbo I would suggest using premium even though the manufacturer suggests regular, a turbo will benefit from the more accurate combustion timing from premium and will rely far less on the monitoring systems implemented to reduce knock
True and very well explained. Just want to share one advice from my personal experience. Those diy sound/dust proofing rubber seal strips for the doors, trunk and bonnet. They worked great in reducing the amount of dust and wind noise in the cabin but it didn't cross my mind that the seal around the bonnet was doing more harm than good. It basically prevented effective dissipation of heat in the engine bay and that somehow caused a premature death of the battery. It could have been worse if I hadn't noticed this soon enough.
13:30 OEM touchscreens are expensive because their size is arbitrary, so its a low volume production item, and they also have to not freeze in winter weather so their composition is a little different.
Yes automotive grade is a lot different than consumer grade with electronics. Ask Tesla they had screens in the model s failing early on when they decided to use consumer grade screens.
Been a mechanic over 20 and I agree with every point you touch on and have told people this for years, especially about OIL CHANGES. Hopefully with capital letters someone might get it. Also about hanging things on the switches and a heavy key ring. Several times they wanted a warranty on a switch but they drove it in even telling me that they can't hang something because it's broken now... Well... They broke it amd that's not warranty. Keep up the good advice to people and hopefully most will listen.
So I’ve been wondering about this and curious if you might have an opinion, on the 2024 CX-5 which apparently has carbon build up, is it a dumb or a bad thing to run, let’s say only a few ounces of Lucas gas treatment every couple fill ups and during the red line periods to try to help with the carbon build up.
@@guitarplayer4429 my stance on gas additives is this, it can't hurt to put an additive every other tank or so, they are lubricants and detergents, preventative things, however by no means a fix for something. Some say they have fixed their car with it, but I have personally never seen a car fixed with an additive not once in my life even with the car that was claimed to be put in. Maintenance.... I personally do what you are asking every few tanks for the exact reason you're asking about.
I own a 2015 2.2 Diesel CX-5 & know a good bit about this. Just had my engine inlet manifold de-cocked after 105K miles (Waaaay too late) , should have been done around 50K miles in my opinion. This is despite always adding a quality fuel aditive and taking it for long runs every now and then. Also, carbon blocked some of the sensors & needed replacing@@guitarplayer4429
I use a carabiner to coral keys on my purse. A separate carabiner has just the car and house key for car and walking cuz the heavy keychain drives me crazy and is too heavy. Glad I was doing that right.
@@guitarplayer4429 I put in a " gas treatment '" in my gas every few tanks. I will completely disagree with someone that says it fixes anything, but for preventative maintenance.... It's what I personally do. Putting some detergent in the fuel from my experience is good
I worked on my own cars for years, prior to computerized engines. You have great content for the novice and intermediate knowledge level, which is needed. $$$ saved.
I’m so happy I found this channel. I’m buying my first Lexus next year and I’ve been doing a deep dive on new cars because my last new car was a Saturn Vue in 2005!! I feel like I’m driving a rocket ship when I test drive the new cars. I’m doing my best to educate myself as much as possible even before buying rhe new vehicle and this channel has helped me a lot. There are many things I do know and oh so many don’t. Like overfilling your gas. I always fill to the next dollar etc. overfilling it. Never thought of it as a problem until see these videos. I will never do it again.
Thanks for these tips! I didn't think that my occasional punching of the engine to get to freeway speed on the on-ramp was helping the engine in terms of carbon buildup because otherwise I don't accelerate aggressively at all to save fuel and general wear and tear.
You do not need to accelerate agressively. Just driving a long distance with 70 miles/h will burn the coal clean off. With long I mean several hours. I've never got expensive repairs on y diesel turbo car. Not in 200000 miles. Not even with the distribution chain (not a belt). But the car drove 4-8 times a year for 13 hours on a day. With this 70 (to 90, Germany has no limit) milesph (120-150 km/h). Oil changes once a year...it was never black when checked in between , not a lot of metal dust in the oil). Max acceleration I only do when I want to pass another car when not on highways.
In the old days fuel pumps were mounted on the engine block. I remember replacing a few on my '70's cars. I've had the luxury of having friends who were Auto Mechanics/Technicians who told me in the early days of gas tank mounted fuel pumps "the gasoline keeps your fuel pump cool". They suggested to keep the gas tank always above 1/4 full. This was after my 1984 Dodge Daytona had to have it's fuel pump replaced, because I'd wait for the "idiot" fuel light to come on before re-fuelling. I was young (and a bit broke), but not stupid, I just didn't realize fuel pumps had moved from the engine block to the gas tank and the impact that had. When I get below half a tank now, I just fill it up... it's EZ fuel pump maintenance. 😄👍 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to You and your family.❤❤
Now on short trips I will move the shifter from automatic to the standard shift side and hold it in a lower gear to keep the rpm higher. That way I can get the Italian tune up without the ticket.
Omg!! I feel so guilty on all fronts. (Hangings things from the mirror and steering wheel, letting the gas tank get low, delaying my oil changes because I hardly drive, not letting my 2001 Sienna warm up in the windy city cold before driving it, ring of keys weighing down the ignition. Thank you so much for steering us in the right direction.
I did 10k mile oil changes for 2 years wish I had learned that you need to do it every 5k miles when I got it but I listened to the car. Thank you for the tip about Windex had no idea and totally something I would have done.
A superb video. 2008 SAAB 9-5 since new. -Always put the mandated premium fuel in the tank. -Always change the Mobil 1 0w-40 every 3-4,000 miles. -Always change the engine air filter with every oil change. -Always change cabin air filter every 12, 000 miles. I live in the city and am often forced to park under trees. Every week I clear out leaves. I also stop by my mechanic every month for him to blowout the sunroof drain. Lately I haven't been using thr car much, but make sure to drive it on the highway and do a longer run ever 7-10 days. The SAAB now has 135,000 miles, with no issues of which you speak. And it's turbocharged. My next car--and hopefully that will be years down the road--will be a normally aspirated Toyota or Lexus ES. To date since new, I've spent $5,300 on all labor, parts and fluids...including exhaust and suspension. That's $5,300 in over 15 years.
@@phillipbanes5484 Thanks Phillip. My indy SAAB master tech is 30 miles from my home. I'm in that area occasionally and do service when needed. I bring him my 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 ($14 after rebate at Walmart) , Mann oil filter ($5) and Mann air filter ($10) and he changes all for $25. Not bad for a synthetic oil change for $54. It's also a matter of convenience. I unfortunately do a lot of stop and go city driving, which also hastens more frequent changes.
Great that you’re expanding car care beyond just Toyota Lexus. It’s unfortunate that most people don’t know how to maintain a vehicle. DIY is rarer today than in decades past. Just adding gas and driving. Not even checking the dipstick or battery.
Part of the reason for less DIY is that cars are also more complex and more electrical/computerized. I know people who do work on the side on older cars but won't touch newer ones due to the complexity.
I do these things. Oil change every 5,000 miles I also run fuel system cleaner with every oil change. Cabin filter every 6 months (lots of pollen and dirt in my area) Engine air filter every 30,000 miles (though I do check it every oil change just to ensure it's in useable condition) I am very vigorous about checking for transmission fluid change intervals. My car calls for every 36,000 miles. I will do every 30,000 because I don't want any problems. Brakes, I am very good at feeling brakes and will change them when most people wouldn't. I like the ability to stop very quickly if need be.
This video should be required viewing for any car owner. I just forwarded it to my daughter because it’s that important yet so clear and easy to follow. Thank you again!
Some great advice here. I use Chemical Guys glass cleaner for my tinted windows and also have their interior cleaner. Something you didn't mention was to never use paper towel. It will scratch the plastic on the cluster, infotainment, and maybe even the windows. Always use cotton or micro fiber cloth.
While in college my wife and I both had newish civics. Mine had a key that was to close to the steering wheel and my keys would get stuck in the area between the steering wheel and column. Her Civic we lemon pawed because the sunroof drains plugged and molded the interior. Funny to hear both of those things here!
Former detailer, to clean your infotainment screens and your gauge clusters just use water (Distilled water highly recommended) spray the water on the screen and the cluster, let it soak in and then gently wipe the screen and cluster with a microfiber cloth. This’ll help minimize scratches and it’ll keep your infotainment working.
Thank you sir! I found you when I was driving the camry. That was bad for my back and recently switched to Subaru Outback.. But this advice is key for everyone, no matter what they drive! We love your wisdom and honesty! May the Lord bless and keep you and your family!
Regarding not filling up all the way being a bad policy for technical reasons, it also costs more. The amount of gas you use is based on the miles you drive. So reducing your driving is the only way to lower fuel costs. Filling up partially often means you have to waste gas going out of your way to fill up additional times.
All excellent points and advice. I keep topping the tank - I seem to have self worth tied to it somehow. My old convertible - like the sunroof idea - if you take the top cloth off - it is literally like an eve-trough around the cabin area - and it is nothing fancy, a metal trough or channel and if you drive in winter or leave it outside or drive it in a bad rainfall - it is like camping in a tent with the rain driving at whatever speed you drive that car. I had to get very good at top repair and I increasingly did not like that design at all for when I could see it when fixing things up. I always omitted the sunroof in cars (I remember my Dad installing a sunroof in the Civic I eventually bought - but that design it stood up about an inch and the sunroof top would cover it like a dome - and it was not perfect - as I had to replace the seal every couple years). I am often tempted to get a sunroof - it is perception as many people will just not get a car without one - but thus far I have always said "a model without the sunroof" (they were very bad from crashes as well - maybe seatbelt use solved that).
God Bless you and your family too...2024 and beyond. I enjoy your videos. I used your review of the CX 50 turbo and also the video about turbos. I decided on the non turbo model.
I watch car nut becuz I value his opinions and he is a REAL technician. I’ve been working on cars since 1974. Working for new dealership for 42 yrs. I did work from bumper to bumper so I know a few things about vehicles. One thing I’ve to add is, the less one pushes his engine the better. Unless one knows the engine is in top shape and well maintained, many parts under the hood can suffer from high RPM, such as timing chain, every bearings, pressure in cooling system, transmission, water pump , air conditioner just to name a few. No, they may not break on you right away but it will cost you money sooner, worse yet, break down at the worst moment.
Yup... Replaced my son's fuel pump on his 04 Saab 9-3 and he drove it around on empty in Phoenix for a year and a half, and then we replaced it again! Big job when you have to drop the tank.... Keep the tank full!
That's going a bit overboard. My Supra warns me to put gas in at 30 miles of range. I try to fill it up at no less than 50 miles, but really, it doesn't need to be kept at full all the time, just not too close to empty.
I was taught the Italian tune-up when I was a teenager. My mom would get mad that I would do it. I explained to her why to do it and how often and she sort of accepted it...but she doesn't ever do it herself.
Where does the dirt come from? Its filtered in the station pump, and your fuel pump pulls fuel from near the bottom of the tank all of the time. Depth of fuel makes no difference on any supposed dirt in the tank. Also, there is no dirt in your tank.
@@skydiverbcQuite correct, I've never understood when people say not to run the tank low because it will suck all the dirt in , it cant and won't, the fuel is sucked from the same point ABOVE the bottom of the tank regardless of the level of fuel in it !!
@@bobgorman9481that is dead right. It's a dumb myth that needs to die, if the feed to the fuel pump is going to suck dirt up, it'll suck it up *all the time* because the fuel is taken from the bottom of the tank *all the time.*
absolutely wrong. Maybe if you have a 40 year old car, sure, but anything made after 2000 shouldn't have a dirty tank. There are filters from the distribution plant, at the fuel station, in your gas tank, and an inline fuel filter before it reaches your engine.
Yet another great video. Change your oil at half dealer recommended intervals folks! You don't want an oil burner in the long haul. I've got a 2020 camry 2.5 A25A FKS and I change the oil every 7-8,000 km religiously. Totota recommends 16,000k oil intervals😳 Happy Toyotaing peeps
I dont let it get that far--I change every 3000 on cars usuing conventional oil and no more than 5000 with synthetic. new oils dont break sown as easily, but filters can become full of contamination and bypass the filter element. There is NO way I would go 16,000 miles, even on a diesel which I do at no more than 7500, no mater what anyone says.
@@donreinke5863 Haha probably some miscommunication here. I'm in Canada. I'm talking kilometers here not miles. So in this case I'm changing my oil at 5000 miles where as the dealer is recommending to change it at 10,000 miles. When I change it, it's still brown and not that black yet. I'm following AMD's service recommendations from day one of owning my camry
@@joeotto775 lol...I was going by miles. 3,000 km is very roughly 2000 miles. Three stories concerning (very) frequent oil changes. Back in the 1970s, there was an article I read on a NYC taxi driver who used a 1957 Cadillac as his taxi. He changed the oil every 1500 miles. The old Caddy had just reached one million miles when the article was published. Its not uncommon to find Toyotas and old Volvos with 300,000, but one million is a milestone almost no gasoline powered vehicle ever reaches.. Second....A few years ago I pulled a Ford 429 V-8 from a 1971 Thunderbird in a wrecking yard.. The oil pan plug was 3X, which is 3 times oversize indicating very frequent removal and installation. I tore it down and found the cylinder wear was only .005 with the factory hone pattern still visible at 100k indicated miles. The president of the Rocky Mountain Thunderbird Club has a 1977 Thunderbird with documented 381,000 miles on the original engine.. He also documented his oil changes at every 3000, religiously.. This car is equipped with the Ford 351 M (modified Cleveland) engine, widely considered to be one of Fords worst engines, yet frequent maintenance kept it alive...for 46 years. Im building a Ford 400 to replace it, the 351 has finally gone about its last mile. That--is what frequent oil change can do for you...and everyone else wise enough to pay attention.
I'm the original owner of a factory ordered 1995 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. At 195,000 i just replaced the injectors, O2 sensor, starter, alternator, MAP. IACV. The throttle body cleaned. I always changed oil every 3,000 miles. Trans and transfer case every 50,000. It idles perfect. Zero oil consumption. I take it off road, light 4wd. I recently had the windscreen replaced, this is #3. The last one lacked sealant on a top edge. The new installer pointed it out. He was proud of his work. Selling next year to a lucky new owner.
Tip #6... Don't use harsh chemicals or abrasives to clean your back glass if it has a defroster/antenna. The orange wires are delicate. Tip #7... Check your tire pressures weekly. All major tire stores will top up your tires for free. Low tires will wear faster and waste fuel. Tip #8... Wash your car regularly, especially in bad weather and really importantly if the roads are salted in winter.
Been doing glass for a few years now. Big company, mom and pop shop, and back to big company. I gotta say, I’ve seen it all. “My neighbor put this backglass in for me for $50, it started leaking but we dont know why.” Push on the glass to find cheap silicone or old butyl. “I hear whistling and thumping from my windshield when I drive” last guy never primed the glass. Go to help a rookie who cant get a windshield out, last guy laid a 3 inch wide bead of glue all around the pinchweld. Or the one that really hurt, doing a windshield for a car that was less than three years old, pull the glass, it was done before, last guy used a power tool all around and didnt treat the metal, rust all around the pinch. Had to stop working and tell the customer they needed to tow it to a shop to fix the issue and that I cannot install the windshield until then. Also for newer vehicles with ADAS equipment on the windshield, DEMAND OEM!!! Especially if its through insurance. Almost all manufacturers have released statements that the vehicle requires it, but more importantly when it comes to calibration after replacement, its less common to fail than aftermarket glass.
Thanks for very helpful video. Tip. Check your windshield washer functionality to make sure both washer spray heads work after windshield replacement. Guess what. Sometimes when the place new windshield on car they can pinch your washer hose UNDER the edge of the windshield glass! Don’t ask me how I know. This happened to me and my son’s car. Before we drove away from shop, I asked my son to actuate his windshield washer. He did and one of sprayers didn’t work!! Pinched under glass. My son was amazed. How did I know!?! 😂
I bought a used '02 camry with a 2AZ-FE with 200k mi. to use as a delivery vehicle when I was a payroll courier. Since I was driving 100+mi./ day, I refueled when it reached halfway. Never had problems, and still drives like new
The first issue can be easily solved by filling it up and then topping it off with $10 to keep it full. It also gives you the insurance of a full tank, in case you don’t have the funds to top it off for a while.😊
I think the real issue with these people is they cannot save, and given the opportunity to use that full tank, they will spend the $10 on something else until it is empty again... The whole thing is irrational
Can confirm. My wife's I4 GDI did nothing but 1 mile trips for years and it had a persistent trouble code relating to the catalytic converter. Never did take it to the shop since was still working and there is no mandatory inspection where I live. Long story short, once it started being driven longer distances that code cleared on its own. Had a later problem with weak engine performance after it sat idle for six months and I took it to the shop. The mechanic told me my gas had gone bad which caused the computer to go haywire tweaking parameters to improve fuel combustion, and that it also had a terrible carbon buildup. Solution was to a full tank of premium and to take it on high-speed a road trip to burn off the carbon. It's been running like a charm ever since.
Hearing you talk about the ignition key thing reminded me of my old '89 Caprice. I could start the car, pull the key, get out, lock it, and pop into the convenience store with it still running in the middle of winter. The '86 Bonneville I had before still had the separate ignition and door keys, so the trick wasn't needed. I miss those days. But, that's what remote start is for now.
My dad altered the ignition in my Dodge 600 by shoving the key in upside down years ago and getting it back out. His Ford key was double sided. Fortunately it did not damage the ignition and gave me a new function of being able to pull out the key while it was still running, locking it, running in to drop things off, and then leaving. I wouldn't suggest it but that was a cool function. People always thought I was a cop behind them in that car and would move out of the way, but only at night cuz it was a baby blue in color.
I didn't know that finer detail on the "Italian tune-up." Granted a 30+ mile highway commute each way I figured kept the vehicle humming better, but maybe it is time I push the humble Camry a little harder some days.
@@Mastr-Tech Uh, NO. 3000rpm is winding most diesels high except a few in passenger cars. Peugeot had a high rpm diesel and even it wasnt close to redline on a gasoline engine. Take a look at the tach redline on most light duty diesel trucks. 3000-3500 is about the limit. Even less for big diesels, even the 2 stroke "screaming" Detroits. Sorry you dont have the experience I do. Youll learn...maybe.
Worried about carbon build up as I have a 1.8L 4 Cylinder, Direct Injection, Turbo and yes, I do give it a good blast every once in a while......Sadly I do short trips, but always let it warm up with oil changes around every 6K miles...Great advice as usual....
You will get buildup on the intakes. I have 80k on my 2.0 Di (2014 ford fusion), so mostly short journeys) and have manually cleaned out the intakes regularly. It is amazing how much builds up. Literally pull out globs of goo every 20k miles (1-2 years). I tried seafoam in the intake for a while, but it just didn't do enough. Same with a low-volatility oil - tried Amsoil. I think it helped, but not enough to make an appreciable difference for me. But, I honestly don't know what level of buildup actually becomes an issue - I've never noticed any difference before/after cleaning in my case. IDK how much walnut blasting costs, but maybe consider having that done at 50-80k or 6-8 years whichever is longer (yes longer, if you are doing a lot of miles, you can definitely go longer than 50k). Just based on my experience of actually seeing the buildup over time. Maybe give you some idea, IDK.
I have the L15CA from Honda in my ride. A 1.5L 4 cylinder turbo engine with direct injection. What I do is drive my car right away after turning on the vehicle. Drive the vehicle casually. Turn off my vehicle after arriving to my destination. My drives are 20 minutes long in stop and go or crawling traffic both ways, home to work then back. I fill the vehicle up with the recommended fuel, which is premium. So 92 octane here in the PNW. I do drive my vehicle hard when necessary or for fun and it is to redline. I get my engine's oil changed every 2000 miles at the Honda dealership. 11,600 something thousand miles and no issues!
@@guitarplayer4429 It is fine as far as I know, I would use it. But gas treatment won't help for carbon buildup on intake valves on direct-inject engines - mentioning that since it is the topic here. But for general cleaning of injectors and fuel system any of those treatments is fine. They high octane fuel with extra cleaning additives beyond what the companies put in their gas.
Your advice and knowledge is always epic, thanks so much! What's irritating is seeing people driving with handicap placards on the mirror. It clearly states not to drive with it on.
One of my vehicles is a 1941 GMC CCKW 353. It has an inline 6, I don't think there's even a turbo for that. But you did say 'modern'. But my stepfather used to say that it doesn't cost any more to keep the top half of the tank full. Lots of good advice on this one, thanks for the video!
7250 rpm on my base '07 Honda Civic manual. I do this every month. 60 mph in second, 94 mph in third. 191k miles on odometer, purrs like a kitten. 5k oil changes, religiously.
Back in the day we would get "old ladies cars" in. I would take them out and drive them like I stole them. The amount of carbon coming out the tailpipe would make them look like a diesel with cranked-up injectors. They always ran better after that.
I change my oil every 6 months or 3k miles now because of your suggestion. When I take it to the dealer to get changed, they always say it's not due and that I don't need to do it. But I always insist. You'll get push back from the dealers and service guys, just know that sometimes you gotta push through that wall and tell them to change the oil. You're the only one looking out for your car imo.
True. Tell them to look at the at Toyota Maintenance guide in the glovebox. It say 5k mile, 6 month oil changes are required if the car is driven under special operating conditions. Then ask them why do they assume that nobody drives in those conditions.
I've watched several of your videos now and you're very easy to listen to, and the advice is very useful. I would like to thank you for that! This is really invaluable advice for the first time car owners, even if you get a used car, because the advice itself tells you what to look for in a used car to see if the owner was neglecting some of these best practices or not. One of the things I would like to see in your video is you repeating the title of each chapter out loud, even if it's not word-for-word. Your videos are just short of being watchable with audio only, and this is the only missing bit. Currently it's not immediately clear what the current chapter will be about.
What a great Channel! Great content and always something to learn. I change the oil in all my vehicles every 6000 km Faithfully in all of my vehicles that I've ever owned. Needless to say I've never had an engine problem in any of my cars. I have the GM 3.6 l engine in one of my vehicles which gets a bad rap due to timing chain issues because people don't change the oil enough or let the dirty oil get low. Also the oil change monitors for these engines is way too long causing issues. When I reset my oil monitor I change the oil at 50% which is about 6,000 km or so. The engine has almost 300,000 km on it and runs quiet and smooth. Everyone should take the car care nuts advice and change their oil regularly a proper intervals. Thats smart advice.
0:25 dont overfill or run dry ur gas
2:55 take care of your engine (don't drive all city miles; avoid short trips; warm up the car)
8:10 don't hang things where you shouldn't (don't hang things on shifters, steering, mirrors;
12:18 don't use "Windex" or glass cleaner on infotainment system screens/surfaces (ammonia harms touchscreens)
14:15 car floods: sunroof-drains (clean them) & windshield (improper replacement installation)
You just saved me 19 mins😂
Thank you kind sir.
Mostly irrelevant for EVs.
@@rogerphelps9939 uh other than the gas part everything else about windex and overflooding are pretty applicable regardless of engine type
You forgot the most important part: cut oil change intervals in half on turbo charged cars
Top-notch advice as usual. If you own a Toyota and follow The Car Care Nut, you're pretty much all set.
He has points that are valid for any vehicle.
@@donreinke5863 You make a valid point Mr. interweb helper!
How come he can't be my next door neighbor, very least local shop. 😢
@kychristell1779 Although he knows what hes talking about some of the time, I often disagree with him.
I have the experience and knowledge to easily match his having been in automotive repair for 51 years.
I repair Toyotas (and all other cars) but i dont own one, and never will.
I will, however flip them for profit.
@kychristell1779 I will try to keep it brief, but here is a short list of Toyota failure.
90s Camry 4 cylinders..Engine "oil gelling" issues which Toyota actually admitted to, but didnt issue a recall.
3.0V-6 engines used throughout the 90s in 4-Runners and trucks. These had well known head gasket as well as valve seat recession issues. Again, Toyota refused to recall them, but would replace the head gaskets for free ONE time IF customers complained excessively, and was never publicized.
Prius brake issues. The regenerative brake system had glitches which caused several Prius to crash due to brake failure.
Toyota stupidly refused to cooperate with a Federal investigation, earning them a record one billion dollar fine from the NTSB.
Really dumb mistake..Badly designed throttle pedals on Camry models causing them to get caught on floor mats, resulting in partially or fully open throttle.
Lower ball joints on first generation Tundra trucks, which would rust out and drop the front end on the pavement while driving.
Poor heat treating of differential gears on trucks, causing failure. At one time it was nearly impossible to find used differentials at wrecking yards as the demand was so high for them.
While certain vehicles and engines were very well made, such as the 22R and 22RE 4 cylinders, the 1980s era Camrys and the newer 3.4 V-6 engine, theyve had enough major issues that Im not overly enamored with Toyota.
The majority of automatic transmissions used in Jeep Cherokee models were sourced from Toyota, and they have proven to have few issues, even when ill maintained. Not so true of the Peugeot sourced BA-10 manual transmission used in the Cherokee.
While I repair late model vehicles regularly, my daily drivers are 39 and 47 year old Fords devoid of electronic systems except for electronic ignition which has only two easily replaced components.
I can easily repair my vehicles on the side of the road if ever necessary.
As far as Honda/Acura, the rest of the vehicle will fall apart before the engine does, If COMPLETE timing belt service is done AND the engine is never allowed to overheat.
Dont ever change JUST the timing belt..do the complete service with idlers, water pump and tensioner.
This applies to ANY vehicle with a timing belt regardless of manufacturer.
Vehicles with timing chains should have the hydraulic tensioner serviced.
Have done everything you recommend, including a break in oil change on my 2022 Venza. I can't believe how fortunate I was to come upon this channel right when I bought my first Toyota. I change my oil religiously every 8k (5,000 miles) and will continue to follow the Car Care Nut advice. Thank you very much.
I may even recommend doing like 3K during the first like 20K miles to make sure there's minimal metal's in the oil but you should be good.
I like 4000 mile oil changes
Too late for that, it's already got more than 20k on it, but I should be fine as I am a maniac (or Car care nut) for maintenance :)@@sacredhealstv901
@@uhhTabby What I did was 3K up to 15K then 5K after that so it was always the 5/10 numbers you know
Bought a new 24 Camry three weeks ago. Drove gently during the first 1,000 mile break-in period. Always warmed up the car first. RPM was never over 3,000. Mostly driven between 25 mph to 55 mph. Did the first oil change at 50 miles, the second at 400 miles, and the third at 1,000 miles. Each time put in Toyota 0W-16 with a Toyota oil filter. And each time the oil looked golden before the oil change. And each time the drained oil looked completely dark in a clean glass jar, and even my 1,000 lums high-powdered flashlight couldn't shine thru. One thing for sure is that I'll need to change oil every 3000 miles for sure.
Officer, I'm just letting my car breathe ... I'm doing an Italian tune-up sir :)
Funny, I actually got stopped last month cause I was performing a drive cycle on one of my cars to get it to pass inspection. He let me go when I told him. But he just thought I was being a wise ass.
Italian Tune up
Lol, I remember thinking that in my in my Honda Accord at 130 mph and saying that in court!🤣 I still had some pedal left! 🤣
:)
You mean like a Fiat= Fix It Again Tony!! LOL. Or the old adage about Fords= Fix Or Repair Daily!! Hey, I'm old using old verbeage!
Love the "Italian Tune Up".... works every time!
I learned the one about the too many keys hanging from the ignition switch when I went to Auto Tech classes in 1977 to 79. Our instructor was a seasoned mechanic that told us of a customer who came in complaining that is car died every time he went over the railroad tracks. he handed them the key and for a few visits, they were never able to duplicate the problem until finally on the third or fourth visit, when they handed him back the key, they just happened to see him put it back on his keychain with about 30 other keys. He said lets take a test drive with all those keys, and they were then able to duplicate the problem.
I learned it from having a GM car that was in the recall for ignition switch problems. Their "fix" was a little slip of paper to add to your owner's manual telling you not to have anything hanging from your key while driving. Since then I've always had my car key on a latch so I can easily remove it from the rest of my keyring.
Hey ,,, that 's a good one ! Part of my job was Car stereo installation and I Can remember several times the customer had Humongous things, (like Trolls?), on the keychain. One time I had to use one hand to Lift all the junk back while the other hand turned the ignition Switch! Lol
Did you by chance go to De Anza?
@@WestZ I went to Hartnell College in Salinas, but I am familiar with De Anza in Cupertino. After I lived in Salinas Valley, I lived in San Jose for about 10 years before moving to Vancouver, Washington.
@@MoNoShocks damn, small world! Seems like the great grandfather auto techs of the 70s and 80s have the same war stories 😂. Hope all is well in the PNW!
1 don't run the fuel tank low, it kills the fuel pump. Also don't overfill your tank, use the recommended gas: e85, premium, etc.
2 know the basics about your car, will guide your maintenance. Ie if you have direct injection, you need a once a week Italian tune up. Also if you drive short distances this also applies. Avoid short trips. If you have a turbocharged engine: maintenance is critical, especially oil change. Avoid long oil change intervals: cut the manufacturers intervals in half (they only apply to specific use scenarios.
3 don't hang things on things that are not hangers: hanging a bag on the shifter, steering column, rear view mirror. This kills the mechanism = LT damage. don't have too many things on your keychain, it wears the cylinder.
4 don't use windex (ammonia based cleaners), it kills touch screens and tints immediately
5 car floods, that are internal. Especially sun roof leaks, clogged sun roof drains. Otherwise poor windshield replacement / poor seals.
What this video forgot to mention is the car brands KNOW you want to keep your tank 100% full. So they design the entry port so that the nozzle is at a slightly steeper angle. This raises the tip a little bit so you can safely squeeze another quart in before it shuts off. Like so many of the tips on this video, you could avoid these issues if you read your dang instruction book! I read mine and the last two cars I've owned said the angle of the port is steeper so the tank is 99.99% full. Both had in big bold letters: "DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR TANK." It said once the nozzle clicks, it's full. Don't try to squeeze the handle a second time!
@@largol33t12Rather than forgotten, I think the tip about not over filling the tank was reduced to layman's terms for non technical types that don't care about the fluid dynamics. Problem is owners manuals have gone from 30 pages to 300 pages with a separate 500 page manual for the infotainment and they over warn about common sense. They have a lot of words directed to 12 people who were not savy enough to get out of jury duty.
@@MoNoShocks Not entirely correct - they have a lot of words directed at 12 people who did tremendously stupid things with their cars that caused an expensive problem who then threatened to sue the manufacturers.
Yes, we know, we all know, we JUST watched the video.
Thank You Captain Obvious
Thanks for this!
The Car Care Nut is the only person I trust on YT. He speaks in detail topics that NOBODY else on YT talks about. All these other Car Review channels just read scripts and really know nothing about them! Koodos to The Car Care Nut for a successful 2023 and to a bright 2024!
Scotty Kilmer, Uncle Tony's Garage and, Powell Machine Inc. 😉
Not correct, John Cadogan tells it like it is. He’s an engineer. His review on the PHEV Mitsubishi Outlander was outstanding. Him and 2 other engineers reviewed it on his channel.
@@ricksanford6485 His channel offers no substance. It’s pure unadulterated click bait. Mind you that style seems to win out with most, but not me.
@@ricksanford6485I disagree I love Scotty and think he hilarious. Sure he has a bias with Toyotas but can you really fault him for his opinions? And honestly I think it’s brilliant with his click bait. I’ve learned a bit through him as well as other mechanics channels.
Scotty knows what he is talking about..
One thing I do is, I get in the car and start the engine. Then I get comfortable, put on the seat belt, check the mirrors and the instrument panel, then I am good to go. I do this because, although it only take a minute, the oil pressure has built up all around the engine.
Oil pressure reaches the furthest gallies in seconds, but you do you.
Drive the car SLOWLY for about the FIRST mile before using full throttle acceleration is also a good idea!
Agreed. My Brother in law volunteers at a sports car museum. They had a famous driver (can't remember his name) drive their cars on an open house day. First he did a walk around. Next started the car. Put on and
checked his seat belt. Next he adjusted all the mirrors. Then he checked the gauges especially to check oil. Next he checked where all the control were and how he fit them i.e. shift stick, clutch and brakes. Ran the shifter through its pattern. Then he was ready to go. He did this for every car!
I do a similar routine.
The walk around is very important for safety. Are there small children in the street behind you that you couldn't see with your mirrors?
During real cold weather bouts I will buy premium gas once an awhile along with using the recommended regular gas. I was told this helps the engine start and run easier.
No. All gas has a cold or hot weather blend. High octane fuel burns slower to prevent pinging = hard cold weather starting.
My father was a retired diesel and gasoline senior Master technician. He taught me everything automotive, but a channel like this provides updates as automobiles have dramatically changed over the decades. I am able to manage an automotive repair shop, my 3rd career after military retirement, but also educate customers. These are excellent points made by AMD. Thank you once again!
No.1 Trade in your 2004 instead of just fixing it.
No. 2 Keep the gasoline BETWEEN 1/4 and 3/4. If you let it go to click point. It will kill the evap module.
No. 3 Change the oil more often than required to past the warranty point.
No. 4 flush the tranny and coolant system as required.
3 & 4 are good for the turbo too.
Who taught me? My Department of the Navy Machinist uncle.
Ever seen a Pinto with original engine and automatic transmission with 250,000 miles on it? Oh and those never got wrenched on.
He also bought Oil and Tranny fluid by the barrel. Probably a big no-no in the Californication state now.
Then returned those back in the same barrel to the recyclable operator. Start with a full one and a empty one.
I was an autobody technician for 34 years and have seen it all. Please listen to this advice 100%
Please listen to this man! As a collision technician, myself, please stop hanging your handicap placards from the mirror while driving. First, it’s illegal (says so on the card), but I see a lot of collisions happen because drivers create a blind spot and couldn’t see.
I learned a lesson with glass cleaners in my wife's Mazda CX-5. Cleaned the infotainment screen with glass cleaner and it took off the anti reflective coating on it. It looked like something was smeared on it at first, so I kept cleaning and after a while, realized I screwed up. Ended up cleaning off the rest of the coating and buying a tempered glass screen protector. Don't do what I did.
That's frustrating. Why can't they use the same kind of screens that are on our cell phones?? That would take care of the problem. Golly, mine even runs some Android OS programs so it can sync with my phone.
You use electronic cleaner like Endust. It's like a liquid film cleaner. It's designed to clean TVs, monitors, laptop, etc. I wouldn't use Windex on my $350 1440p monitor or 4k TV. Endust is also anti static. I have a 2019 Mazda3 and I used Endust and then put a screen protector on. Center console protector helps too with Mazda.
@@largol33t12because phone screens are gorilla glass. They don't want much sharp glass during an accident. Phone glass break in sharp shards, side windows are safety glass, and front windshields are laminated glass that don't shatter into pieces. It's designed to stop a deer from flying through your windshield. Side glass is designed to break into little cubes in emergency cases.
Yer not the “lone stranger” here. I did the “Exact” same thing you did.
Those cleaners eat up the plastic on the touch screen ( for EVERYTHING) phone , temp ,time ect ect . Ask me how I know 😄😵💫💩Thankfully I got it replaced under warranty. 🥵
I have a 3.6 VVT engine in my 07 Cadillac CTS and I absolutely love it! I’ve heard many people complain about these engines, but I’ve never had the least problem with mine, not one! But I’m always changing the oil in it and there’s nothing but the best complete synthetic oil! I change my oil at half the intervals that the owners manual says it should be changed! So I keep good oil with it at all times, and it doesn’t use our league or burn a drop of oil and it purrs like a kitten, as if it was still new! But I believe it’s very very important to keep the oil change very Regularly and these engines, especially that one I’m told!
I've never heard a mechanic say "the Lord bless you and keep you". Thank you for that. You made my day!!!!
Look up, JOHN RUTTER.
You'll be inspired.
Lol yuck
As a tech myself I can say you give solid advice. Keep doing good for car owners.
I'm not surprised this channel has grown so fast. You give sound advice, come across as sincere and seem like you truly care about the average person out there taking care of their car. Here's to 1M subs soon!
Im Italian and do the same for my old body
push it hard twice a week in the gym or in the yard.
We get carboned up too!
Im direct ijectiln...
but less often as before😼😻
Yep...had windshield replaced and opted for OEM only. They had stock windshields, but I accepted the minor cost upgrade and waited a day or two for it. Tech came to the house and told me he was glad I opted for OEM. Perfect install every time and there are no clarity issues with OEM. My experience.
Thanks for all the wonderful info. I’m a 75 year old single woman who doesn’t know much about cars. Last year I bought a Prius prime because I wanted to be environmentally responsible. I’ve watched most of your videos so I can properly care for my car. You are a jewel.
Watching you naturally Improv these videos the way you do is pretty cool. Your knowledge of cars is incredible, but your ability to articulate these things to the masses is the best!
You mean being naturally honest about what you know and not reading scripts 😂
@@Nightrunnergunner yes. Have you ever spoken publicly or even on camera, without a script? 99.9% of the population cannot pull that off.
I’m a retired mechanic and this is my favorite U Tube channel.
Anyone fortunate enough to live near this guy’s shop has got it made if they drive a Toyota or Lexus.
I wish have close to Ahmed shop
I love my 2019 Tundra, yes it’s a V8, and yes it’s thirsty, I know about the fuel pump thing. But i never let it get below 1/2 tank. A 38 gallon gas tank is quite expensive on empty. 😊
My spouse bought a fantastic new Mazda. The maintenance interval seemed so long I finally said I don’t trust a car to not be observed by a mechanic for more than 6 months. Glad to hear you agree after I pushed the issue and made the appointment. Was hoping I’m not a totally out of touch old school car guy.
I am glad you addressed windshield issues. I got a crack a little while ago on my windshield on my 200 LC. Didn’t think anything about it because where I am from in Canada almost everyone has a cracked windshield because of ice and the city sanding the roads. Once the snow started to melt and roads got slushy I noticed my fog lights would stay on even when headlights were off. Took it into the dealership they couldn’t find the problem after running it through the car wash 4 times. It was good for about 2 weeks and then we got rain the problem was back except now the door sensors were acting funny but this time it was on and off and it turns out the windshield was leaking and it took 4 months to get a new windshield in. Fun stuff but don’t sit on a cracked windshield.
learned this the hard way down south of you. I got unlucky and a rock hit my windshield on the highway, and while I was setting aside money to have it filled, temperature fluctuations grew the crack from "maybe I can just get this filled" to "you need a replacement windshield," it sucks
With regards to the "flooding" without the flood, may I add that the cowl panel (gutter under the windshield) is also another source of flooding if left unchecked. Dead leaves, insects, gunk get squeezed inside it which eventually clogs the small drain on each side of the cowl panel. In time water will build up then overflow into the aircon duct (correct me if I'm wrong)😊 which will trickle down in the front passenger side.
True that $8,000 repair
Once the leaves start falling, I periodically clean it out with the leaf blower.
Good stuff! I'm a huge fan of doing a break-in oil change. I've done this at 1000-1500 miles on every new vehicle I've ever purchased, and every 5000 miles thereafter, with a quality synthetic oil. This simple rule has served my vehicles very well for decades.
Very few newer vehicle owner manuals include early first oil change requirements. My first oil change in my 2024 Supra will be after one year (4000 miles or slightly less). The first oil change in our now 19.5 year old Lexus was at 5000 miles. It still runs perfectly with over 140,000 miles.
@@davepaturno4290 What most people don't realize is that modern maint intervals, as recommended by manufacturers, are heavily influenced by environmental concerns, not best practices for vehicle longevity and reliability. I have no problem with trying to prevent unnecessary waste, which is why longer maint intervals exist today, but my top concern is protecting the long term reliability of my investment. That said, if you have a vehicle made by a quality brand, following the owner's manual won't likely cause any problems, but I'd rather be aggressive with my maint than to have any possibility of premature mechanical failures. More frequent fluids changes are cheap insurance, in my opinion.
@dlg5485 I guess if you are planning to keep your vehicle for 25+ years, then the extra cost may be worthwhile.
I have a 2007 Avalon, 2Gr fe. It has 92k miles. I love to give it an "Italian tune-up" not all the time, but at least weekly. When that engine is approaching 6k rpm's it sounds glorious to me, kinda like the sound of a jet engine spooling up. 😊
@@efil4kizum It is a thrill, and the car likes it too! If you're in the Camp of scoffing at the Avalon as a boring old car, you'd be wrong. It has the heart of a lion.
Even the 2nd gen Avalons with the 1mz are very nice when you open the throttle up.
V6's tend to sound nice at high RPM and full throttle.
I have an 2011 Acura TSX and live very close to work, but I drive to a large city every week to visit my kids and grandkids that is 76 miles away, so it gets some road miles too. I can't wait to do the italian tuneup next time!
@@Moneymindsetcoaching😂look out for cops they pop out like mushrooms on weekends
Wow…does this hit home! I just had fuel induction cleaning on my 2021 CX5 with 28K miles on it. 99% of the time i drive is in town short trip driving. I was STUNNED at how immediately my mpg on my gauges went from 21 mpg to 26 mpg and how quickly it starts up. I will for sure take my little car for a run down the interstate once a week to blast out the filth. Thank you!
I’d rather watch this than listening to Scotty Kilmer say everything is junk or every car manufacturer is shutting down.
Scott Kilmer channel is more for entertainment. Car care nut is for information.
AMD knows his stuff! I like him and watch his post’s regularly
I got bad advice from Scotty
Scotty lost me as the clickbait titles got worse. Just annoyed me to be treated with such contempt.
I watched a few Scotty videos but couldn’t tolerate the overly exaggerated animation and constant yelling. CCN is MUCH more informative all while having a pleasant personality and demeanor. Obviously many others agree as AMD now has over 1 M subscribers, congratulations!
I bought a new 01 tacoma 4 cyl new - have always done oil changes regularly - originally at 3000 miles; now with better oils, i go 5k. The truck has 225k on it now and never uses a drop of oil between changes and runs exactly like it did when new. One great truck, but you have to consider oil changes an investment in the car's future.
I always keep my wife’s RAV4, my Corolla and my GX460 in full. Once the clicker stops at the pump, I place the cap back on. Once 1/4 of the fuel is consumed we refuel back again and the tank is always full. An emergency where to arise we jump in the vehicle and on the road we go. Thanks for the video. Take care!
sounds like they see enough use that it's not a problem, I'm more on the "leave enough gas in the tank to get to the gas station and fuel up when I need to drive somewhere/consider pouring fuel stabilizer in the tank between drives" end of the spectrum
@@xXx_Regulus_xXxmjne is a similar approach. Whenever I see that I have around 100-150km left in the tank, I go refuel. In case of an emergency situation, 100km is far enough where I can find a gas station around in Europe. 😊
Excellent video as usual. For preventing flooding I would also consider to clear the firewall well of any leaves. You might need to take off the window wiper arms to get there, but it might be worth it.. Greasing up the connecting arms when you are in there is also a good idea.
I agree.
I had a '90 Dodge Grand Caravan which needed attention in this area. This car was parked outdoors under incense cedar trees which drop their scale-like needles as small bits. Those bits easily passed into the "well" and slowly clogged the drain tube, causing water to collect and then overflow and leak into the cabin floor.
Once clogged, it wasn't too hard to clear with compressed air, an easy DIY if you have a compressor. But still, better to avoid the water overflow by making sure that the drain system is clear before the start of rainy season.
Fortunately, my Sienna does not have this problem. Thank you Toyota!
I found your channel right after I bought my 6 speed 2021 Toyota Corolla SE hatchback and I've followed your advice. She runs perfectly. Thank you!
That is the car I want
Italian Tune-up is also needed for battery maintenance if all the daily driving consists of short, street driving. Battery doesn't get properly charged unless the vehicle is ridden continuously over 60 mph and at or above 2500 RPMs for 30 minutes or more.
Thanks for your explanation on the fuel pump issue. I always fill to the top but usually don't fill till near empty. Have never had a failure from any vehicle in 40 years of driving but didn't know I was doing any harm either.
The fact that you fill up the tank helps, rather than keeping it on low all the time.
The harm takes 41 years to materialise😅.
I refuel till the pump clicks off and don't put anymore gas in.
I used to let it run low before filling it, after a preventable expensive azz repair (fuel pump) not any more.
the "low fuel level kills pumps" thing is a bit of a myth. Running it OUT of gas will kill your pump if you do it regularly. The only time your fuel pump is submerged is when the tank is 3/4 or higher, depending on the dimensions of your fuel tank. Your fuel pump is cooled by the fuel flowing through it, not around it, so as long as you don't regularly run it OUT of gas then you aren't harming it. When you run out of gas your pump will run dry and continue to run dry which is definitely going to kill it. However, running it low on fuel but not completely out, will not damage the fuel pump.
This guy is a legend. He just actually is a car care nut and wants to save you money. ie. his oil change recommendation. Would love to know your thoughts on the new crazy low weight oils, especially on engines like the 1gr-fe that used to recommend heavy oil.
In the FJ cruiser, they seem to recommend diffrent oil weights for diffrent countries. I am convinced it has more to do with pollution regulations than what is good for your engine. I run 5-w30 as I do not have extreme temperatures in either direction to deal with, and there are plenty of people with 300,000+ mile FJ engines running it.
Most technicians are not going to have an opinion on light oils for example outside of the manufacturer recommendations, Project Farm on U-Tube done testing comparing the light oils verses the heavier versions, and even though the testing favored the heavier oils, since he has a large audience he wouldn’t recommend anything different than manufacturer recommended oils, I won’t use the light ECO oils outside of my vehicle’s warranty period, excessive oil consumption and premature engine wear is attributed to these from all the research I’ve done!
I built an ls engine years ago after being familiar with old small block Chevys. When I measured the bearing clearance I almost panicked, instead of .002 to .0025 I measured.001 to .0015, this is within spec and worn out is .002 to .0025, worn out on an ls is new spec on an older engine. Moral of the story use the oil the manufacturer recommends, it is the correct oil for the tight tolerances of modern engines. Measurements are in inches.
Vehicles with VVT need lighter oils because the oil has to do double duty as it lubricates and acts as a hydraulic fluid! Now, with the popularity of turbochargers, the oil has to do triple duty, lubricant, hydraulic fluid, and coolant!! Use the correct oil and keep it clean!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
All else being equal, heavier oils will protect better due to a thicker film. But not all else is equal. A lot of lower weight oils make up for that with their additives...
I'm still old school and I do my oil changes at 3,000 miles with synthetic oil and factory filter.
I've never have seen an engine go bad changing the oil too often.
Thanks for your video..
If you don't already have one, I would suggest a Fumoto drain valve. It makes changes so much easier
If I use synthetic is it ok to do every 5000?
@@terrycrews1760 There are many factors (driving style, turbos, weather extremes) that can effect when you should change your oil.
Many videos that have actually sent oil samples out for analysis at various change intervals, after normal non-extreme driving, indicate that a good oil (like a synthetic) begins to exhibit noticeable wear at ~ 10k miles. And some manufacturers recommend 10K oil changes but realize that they only warranty the power train for 60K miles.
Old school (pre 1990) oil changes were recommended at every 3k miles but oil and filters have greatly advanced beyond those recommendations. While it may be a little premature to change synthetic oil every 5k miles or every year whichever comes first, it is not that expensive and should give you peace of mind that you are doing your best to ensure a long engine life.
@@clarkkent9080 thanks for your detailed response! Super helpful!
You should be fine, that's the maximum mileage I'd wait, especially if you're running a turbo. Needless to say that a new oil filter should be fitted at the same time. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.@@terrycrews1760
The fuel that _goes thru_ the pump, cools it. The pump sits in a cup that is always full of fuel, because a small regulated amount returns to the cup. The example you show illustrates it perfectly. I've changed hundreds of them, they all hold about 10oz of fuel in the cup. Been that way since the mid 90's.
Absolutely, unequivocally the best auto channel, in my opinion on youtube. Seriously, there's not 1 video you make. I don't enjoy that's saying something I watch a lot of youtube.
Some years ago, I had an '07 Altima. Started hearing water sloshing around in the driver's side door. Found a rubber drain plug at the bottom of the door, pulled it and watched a few gallons of water come out! I was somewhat amazed that I didn't have any issues with the electronics in the door. I probably would have if I hadn't addressed it quickly after noticing.
I Just Love that man. Cheers from Germany. Owning a Toyota Auris, doing 300.000 Miles now with your Tips. Never Had an issue. Magical.
Amd, you’re 💯 right on the sunroof drain. Exactly what you said would happen, happened on our Sienna. Now we have electrical issues and a messed up interior. Keep up with those drains folks!
Agree 100% with your opinion on glass! Safelite backs their work! I had a family member use “the cheaper place” they found and the windshield leaked so bad it cost $1000’s in electrical damages.
Yep! I ran into that with my 2000 Trans am with my t-tops. A 🤏🏻 small twig got into one of my drains for the t-top. Now what I've been doing since that happened is I pull the t-tops off 2 months and clean and lubricant all the rubber seals, whipe down the channels and blow out the drains with compress air.
To add on the turbo maintenance; people should not be driving their turbo vehicles hard and then turning them off. The vehicle should run for a minute or two to let oil cycle and cool the turbo if you are about to turn the car off and just finished a spirited drive.
Or fit a turbo timer. 1-2 minutes it'll switch the engine off for you. 👍
Modern cars have electric pumps that cool the turbo when it’s hot and the car shuts off. You can hear the buzzing noises after you park your car.
How tf you gonna cool something by having it running
@@thegreat9481 you understand that turbos are cooled with flowing oil right?
I've known about that from hot rodders for a long time. Some hot rodders even install a delay in their ignition. They can remove the key but the ignition timer kicks in and the engine runs for 75 seconds before turning off even if the key is out. Clever.
For the screen, I installed a screen protector that doesn't affect the touch sensitivity. It makes it easier to keep the screen clean. And always try to use microfibers to prevent scratching.
In Acura we have dreaded touchpad, but at least we never touch the screen 😂
I wish the police would crack down on that ! When I was growing up, it was the dice hanging from the mirrors. Now it’s the cell phones mounted right in their view! I saw one FULL SIZE IPad mounted right on top of his dashboard!
I’ve looked on Amazon for a screen protector for my RAV4, but I cant find any; where did you get yours?
Merry Christmas AMD, TCCN Team and 918,000 SUBSCRIBERS !!!🎄🎄 If you live in the Salt Belt, Number 1 should be , NEVER forget to rust proof the nice new car you just
spent a fortune on!!!!😁
Yes but be careful where you take it. It could be worse.
I never used to believe in overfilling the gas tank being a bad thing. However, last month I kept getting a P0442 code on my mazda 3. According to the forums its either gas cap or the cannister vent valve located above the subframe. Only thing I've stopped doing since the code was on for several months was I stopped overfilling the tank but stopped as soon as the lever flicked at the pump. The light cleared by itself 2 weeks ago and hasn't been an issue since. Previously it would be on and off anytime I overfilled the tank. So guys, do not overfill!
2:40, for the most part, yes, I agree with this. However, when your vehicle comes with a turbo I would suggest using premium even though the manufacturer suggests regular, a turbo will benefit from the more accurate combustion timing from premium and will rely far less on the monitoring systems implemented to reduce knock
I agree 100% people should never use cheap gas either.
Mazda allows turbo owners to run regular fuel, but lower power is to be expected. I would stick with premium, however.
True and very well explained. Just want to share one advice from my personal experience. Those diy sound/dust proofing rubber seal strips for the doors, trunk and bonnet. They worked great in reducing the amount of dust and wind noise in the cabin but it didn't cross my mind that the seal around the bonnet was doing more harm than good. It basically prevented effective dissipation of heat in the engine bay and that somehow caused a premature death of the battery. It could have been worse if I hadn't noticed this soon enough.
13:30 OEM touchscreens are expensive because their size is arbitrary, so its a low volume production item, and they also have to not freeze in winter weather so their composition is a little different.
Yes automotive grade is a lot different than consumer grade with electronics. Ask Tesla they had screens in the model s failing early on when they decided to use consumer grade screens.
@@thetechlibrarian I guess that would work fine in California but not the rest of the world lol
Been a mechanic over 20 and I agree with every point you touch on and have told people this for years, especially about OIL CHANGES. Hopefully with capital letters someone might get it. Also about hanging things on the switches and a heavy key ring. Several times they wanted a warranty on a switch but they drove it in even telling me that they can't hang something because it's broken now... Well... They broke it amd that's not warranty.
Keep up the good advice to people and hopefully most will listen.
So I’ve been wondering about this and curious if you might have an opinion, on the 2024 CX-5 which apparently has carbon build up, is it a dumb or a bad thing to run, let’s say only a few ounces of Lucas gas treatment every couple fill ups and during the red line periods to try to help with the carbon build up.
@@guitarplayer4429 my stance on gas additives is this, it can't hurt to put an additive every other tank or so, they are lubricants and detergents, preventative things, however by no means a fix for something. Some say they have fixed their car with it, but I have personally never seen a car fixed with an additive not once in my life even with the car that was claimed to be put in.
Maintenance.... I personally do what you are asking every few tanks for the exact reason you're asking about.
I own a 2015 2.2 Diesel CX-5 & know a good bit about this. Just had my engine inlet manifold de-cocked after 105K miles (Waaaay too late) , should have been done around 50K miles in my opinion. This is despite always adding a quality fuel aditive and taking it for long runs every now and then. Also, carbon blocked some of the sensors & needed replacing@@guitarplayer4429
I use a carabiner to coral keys on my purse. A separate carabiner has just the car and house key for car and walking cuz the heavy keychain drives me crazy and is too heavy. Glad I was doing that right.
@@guitarplayer4429 I put in a " gas treatment '" in my gas every few tanks. I will completely disagree with someone that says it fixes anything, but for preventative maintenance.... It's what I personally do. Putting some detergent in the fuel from my experience is good
I worked on my own cars for years, prior to computerized engines. You have great content for the novice and intermediate knowledge level, which is needed. $$$ saved.
I’m so happy I found this channel. I’m buying my first Lexus next year and I’ve been doing a deep dive on new cars because my last new car was a Saturn Vue in 2005!! I feel like I’m driving a rocket ship when I test drive the new cars. I’m doing my best to educate myself as much as possible even before buying rhe new vehicle and this channel has helped me a lot. There are many things I do know and oh so many don’t. Like overfilling your gas. I always fill to the next dollar etc. overfilling it. Never thought of it as a problem until see these videos. I will never do it again.
Thanks for these tips! I didn't think that my occasional punching of the engine to get to freeway speed on the on-ramp was helping the engine in terms of carbon buildup because otherwise I don't accelerate aggressively at all to save fuel and general wear and tear.
Not only does it help, it’s fun!
And if you drive a manual car, it’s even more fun!
You do not need to accelerate agressively. Just driving a long distance with 70 miles/h will burn the coal clean off. With long I mean several hours.
I've never got expensive repairs on y diesel turbo car. Not in 200000 miles. Not even with the distribution chain (not a belt). But the car drove 4-8 times a year for 13 hours on a day. With this 70 (to 90, Germany has no limit) milesph (120-150 km/h).
Oil changes once a year...it was never black when checked in between , not a lot of metal dust in the oil).
Max acceleration I only do when I want to pass another car when not on highways.
I drive my 2023 Camry in sport mode every now and then to burn off the carbon.
@@thomasmiddlebrooke1012 hehe yup it really is fun!
@@reiniernn9071 Sounds like it would be cheaper to get it worked on in the shop than use all that time and gas.
In the old days fuel pumps were mounted on the engine block. I remember replacing a few on my '70's cars. I've had the luxury of having friends who were Auto Mechanics/Technicians who told me in the early days of gas tank mounted fuel pumps "the gasoline keeps your fuel pump cool". They suggested to keep the gas tank always above 1/4 full. This was after my 1984 Dodge Daytona had to have it's fuel pump replaced, because I'd wait for the "idiot" fuel light to come on before re-fuelling. I was young (and a bit broke), but not stupid, I just didn't realize fuel pumps had moved from the engine block to the gas tank and the impact that had. When I get below half a tank now, I just fill it up... it's EZ fuel pump maintenance. 😄👍
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to You and your family.❤❤
Now on short trips I will move the shifter from automatic to the standard shift side and hold it in a lower gear to keep the rpm higher. That way I can get the Italian tune up without the ticket.
smart, I've also seen on another channel to run the car at higher RPMs when you use a fuel system cleaner so it works more effectively
By holding the RPMs steady, you are NOT putting a HEAVY load on the engine, therefore not getting FULL benefit of the "tuneup"!
Best thing to do is accelerate kind of aggressively onto the highway whenever you get on.
Omg!!
I feel so guilty on all fronts. (Hangings things from the mirror and steering wheel, letting the gas tank get low, delaying my oil changes because I hardly drive, not letting my 2001 Sienna warm up in the windy city cold before driving it, ring of keys weighing down the ignition.
Thank you so much for steering us in the right direction.
Starting a cold engine in Winter, causes about 80% of the wear on an engine. Good reason for driving a car GENTLY for about a mile after a cold start!
I did 10k mile oil changes for 2 years wish I had learned that you need to do it every 5k miles when I got it but I listened to the car. Thank you for the tip about Windex had no idea and totally something I would have done.
A superb video.
2008 SAAB 9-5 since new.
-Always put the mandated premium fuel in the tank.
-Always change the Mobil 1 0w-40 every 3-4,000 miles.
-Always change the engine air filter with every oil change.
-Always change cabin air filter every 12, 000 miles.
I live in the city and am often forced to park under trees. Every week I clear out leaves. I also stop by my mechanic every month for him to blowout the sunroof drain.
Lately I haven't been using thr car much, but make sure to drive it on the highway and do a longer run ever 7-10 days.
The SAAB now has 135,000 miles, with no issues of which you speak. And it's turbocharged. My next car--and hopefully that will be years down the road--will be a normally aspirated Toyota or Lexus ES. To date since new, I've spent $5,300 on all labor, parts and fluids...including exhaust and suspension. That's $5,300 in over 15 years.
@@phillipbanes5484 Thanks Phillip. My indy SAAB master tech is 30 miles from my home. I'm in that area occasionally and do service when needed. I bring him my 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 ($14 after rebate at Walmart) , Mann oil filter ($5) and Mann air filter ($10) and he changes all for $25. Not bad for a synthetic oil change for $54. It's also a matter of convenience. I unfortunately do a lot of stop and go city driving, which also hastens more frequent changes.
Great that you’re expanding car care beyond just Toyota Lexus. It’s unfortunate that most people don’t know how to maintain a vehicle. DIY is rarer today than in decades past. Just adding gas and driving. Not even checking the dipstick or battery.
Part of the reason for less DIY is that cars are also more complex and more electrical/computerized. I know people who do work on the side on older cars but won't touch newer ones due to the complexity.
@@sharonthehuman5954 you can still maintain and work on newer cars. Your belief is false.
Very informative video! Thank you! I change my turbo Audi every 6mo or 5k miles, definitely not what is in the maintenance section of the manual.❤️🇺🇸
I do these things.
Oil change every 5,000 miles
I also run fuel system cleaner with every oil change.
Cabin filter every 6 months (lots of pollen and dirt in my area)
Engine air filter every 30,000 miles (though I do check it every oil change just to ensure it's in useable condition)
I am very vigorous about checking for transmission fluid change intervals. My car calls for every 36,000 miles. I will do every 30,000 because I don't want any problems.
Brakes, I am very good at feeling brakes and will change them when most people wouldn't. I like the ability to stop very quickly if need be.
This video should be required viewing for any car owner. I just forwarded it to my daughter because it’s that important yet so clear and easy to follow. Thank you again!
Some great advice here. I use Chemical Guys glass cleaner for my tinted windows and also have their interior cleaner. Something you didn't mention was to never use paper towel. It will scratch the plastic on the cluster, infotainment, and maybe even the windows. Always use cotton or micro fiber cloth.
I discovered their waterless car wash and it is amazing! I used their interior cleaner too, their products are awesome!
Use a air duster (can or battery powered) before and you’ll never scratch it
Invincible glass is also good as well
While in college my wife and I both had newish civics. Mine had a key that was to close to the steering wheel and my keys would get stuck in the area between the steering wheel and column. Her Civic we lemon pawed because the sunroof drains plugged and molded the interior. Funny to hear both of those things here!
No Windex on a touch screen! Wow, I haven't done this but I can see myself doing it without thought. Great tip.
Use "Flat Panel (TV)" screen cleaner or some DISTILLED WATER with a couple of drops of "new dawn" dish soap!
Former detailer, to clean your infotainment screens and your gauge clusters just use water (Distilled water highly recommended) spray the water on the screen and the cluster, let it soak in and then gently wipe the screen and cluster with a microfiber cloth. This’ll help minimize scratches and it’ll keep your infotainment working.
Thank you sir! I found you when I was driving the camry. That was bad for my back and recently switched to Subaru Outback.. But this advice is key for everyone, no matter what they drive! We love your wisdom and honesty! May the Lord bless and keep you and your family!
Regarding not filling up all the way being a bad policy for technical reasons, it also costs more. The amount of gas you use is based on the miles you drive. So reducing your driving is the only way to lower fuel costs. Filling up partially often means you have to waste gas going out of your way to fill up additional times.
All excellent points and advice. I keep topping the tank - I seem to have self worth tied to it somehow. My old convertible - like the sunroof idea - if you take the top cloth off - it is literally like an eve-trough around the cabin area - and it is nothing fancy, a metal trough or channel and if you drive in winter or leave it outside or drive it in a bad rainfall - it is like camping in a tent with the rain driving at whatever speed you drive that car. I had to get very good at top repair and I increasingly did not like that design at all for when I could see it when fixing things up. I always omitted the sunroof in cars (I remember my Dad installing a sunroof in the Civic I eventually bought - but that design it stood up about an inch and the sunroof top would cover it like a dome - and it was not perfect - as I had to replace the seal every couple years). I am often tempted to get a sunroof - it is perception as many people will just not get a car without one - but thus far I have always said "a model without the sunroof" (they were very bad from crashes as well - maybe seatbelt use solved that).
God Bless you and your family too...2024 and beyond. I enjoy your videos. I used your review of the CX 50 turbo and also the video about turbos. I decided on the non turbo model.
I watch car nut becuz I value his opinions and he is a REAL technician. I’ve been working on cars since 1974. Working for new dealership for 42 yrs. I did work from bumper to bumper so I know a few things about vehicles. One thing I’ve to add is, the less one pushes his engine the better. Unless one knows the engine is in top shape and well maintained, many parts under the hood can suffer from high RPM, such as timing chain, every bearings, pressure in cooling system, transmission, water pump , air conditioner just to name a few. No, they may not break on you right away but it will cost you money sooner, worse yet, break down at the worst moment.
Yup... Replaced my son's fuel pump on his 04 Saab 9-3 and he drove it around on empty in Phoenix for a year and a half, and then we replaced it again! Big job when you have to drop the tank.... Keep the tank full!
That's going a bit overboard. My Supra warns me to put gas in at 30 miles of range. I try to fill it up at no less than 50 miles, but really, it doesn't need to be kept at full all the time, just not too close to empty.
I was taught the Italian tune-up when I was a teenager. My mom would get mad that I would do it. I explained to her why to do it and how often and she sort of accepted it...but she doesn't ever do it herself.
Ma! My mom is who taught me to do it!! She was a pretty good car nut
Good tip on the fuel pump, also running it low consistently tends to pull up dirt accumulated on the bottom of the tank.
Where does the dirt come from? Its filtered in the station pump, and your fuel pump pulls fuel from near the bottom of the tank all of the time. Depth of fuel makes no difference on any supposed dirt in the tank. Also, there is no dirt in your tank.
@@skydiverbcQuite correct, I've never understood when people say not to run the tank low because it will suck all the dirt in , it cant and won't, the fuel is sucked from the same point ABOVE the bottom of the tank regardless of the level of fuel in it !!
@@bobgorman9481that is dead right.
It's a dumb myth that needs to die, if the feed to the fuel pump is going to suck dirt up, it'll suck it up *all the time* because the fuel is taken from the bottom of the tank *all the time.*
Wrong dude. Just wrong.
absolutely wrong. Maybe if you have a 40 year old car, sure, but anything made after 2000 shouldn't have a dirty tank. There are filters from the distribution plant, at the fuel station, in your gas tank, and an inline fuel filter before it reaches your engine.
Yet another great video. Change your oil at half dealer recommended intervals folks! You don't want an oil burner in the long haul. I've got a 2020 camry 2.5 A25A FKS and I change the oil every 7-8,000 km religiously. Totota recommends 16,000k oil intervals😳 Happy Toyotaing peeps
I dont let it get that far--I change every 3000 on cars usuing conventional oil and no more than 5000 with synthetic. new oils dont break sown as easily, but filters can become full of contamination and bypass the filter element. There is NO way I would go 16,000 miles, even on a diesel which I do at no more than 7500, no mater what anyone says.
@@donreinke5863 Haha probably some miscommunication here. I'm in Canada. I'm talking kilometers here not miles. So in this case I'm changing my oil at 5000 miles where as the dealer is recommending to change it at 10,000 miles. When I change it, it's still brown and not that black yet. I'm following AMD's service recommendations from day one of owning my camry
@@joeotto775 lol...I was going by miles.
3,000 km is very roughly 2000 miles.
Three stories concerning (very) frequent oil changes. Back in the 1970s, there was an article I read on a NYC taxi driver who used a 1957 Cadillac as his taxi. He changed the oil every 1500 miles. The old Caddy had just reached one million miles when the article was published.
Its not uncommon to find Toyotas and old Volvos with 300,000, but one million is a milestone almost no gasoline powered vehicle ever reaches..
Second....A few years ago I pulled a Ford 429 V-8 from a 1971 Thunderbird in a wrecking yard..
The oil pan plug was 3X, which is 3 times oversize indicating very frequent removal and installation. I tore it down and found the cylinder wear was only .005 with the factory hone pattern still visible at 100k indicated miles.
The president of the Rocky Mountain Thunderbird Club has a 1977 Thunderbird with documented 381,000 miles on the original engine.. He also documented his oil changes at every 3000, religiously..
This car is equipped with the Ford 351 M (modified Cleveland) engine, widely considered to be one of Fords worst engines, yet frequent maintenance kept it alive...for 46 years.
Im building a Ford 400 to replace it, the 351 has finally gone about its last mile.
That--is what frequent oil change can do for you...and everyone else wise enough to pay attention.
He REALLY knows what is talking about......love this channel a lot. Lots of sound advices..
I'm the original owner of a factory ordered 1995 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. At 195,000 i just replaced the injectors, O2 sensor, starter, alternator, MAP. IACV. The throttle body cleaned. I always changed oil every 3,000 miles. Trans and transfer case every 50,000. It idles perfect. Zero oil consumption. I take it off road, light 4wd. I recently had the windscreen replaced, this is #3. The last one lacked sealant on a top edge. The new installer pointed it out. He was proud of his work. Selling next year to a lucky new owner.
Tip #6... Don't use harsh chemicals or abrasives to clean your back glass if it has a defroster/antenna. The orange wires are delicate.
Tip #7... Check your tire pressures weekly. All major tire stores will top up your tires for free. Low tires will wear faster and waste fuel.
Tip #8... Wash your car regularly, especially in bad weather and really importantly if the roads are salted in winter.
I'm a DIY'er and change my oil and filters every 6 months, regardless of miles. Keep all your receipts, too.
Gracias por sus consejos
Es una persona de admirar 🙏🏻
Nunca cambie, personas cómo usted, necesita este mundo.
Been doing glass for a few years now. Big company, mom and pop shop, and back to big company. I gotta say, I’ve seen it all. “My neighbor put this backglass in for me for $50, it started leaking but we dont know why.” Push on the glass to find cheap silicone or old butyl. “I hear whistling and thumping from my windshield when I drive” last guy never primed the glass. Go to help a rookie who cant get a windshield out, last guy laid a 3 inch wide bead of glue all around the pinchweld. Or the one that really hurt, doing a windshield for a car that was less than three years old, pull the glass, it was done before, last guy used a power tool all around and didnt treat the metal, rust all around the pinch. Had to stop working and tell the customer they needed to tow it to a shop to fix the issue and that I cannot install the windshield until then.
Also for newer vehicles with ADAS equipment on the windshield, DEMAND OEM!!! Especially if its through insurance. Almost all manufacturers have released statements that the vehicle requires it, but more importantly when it comes to calibration after replacement, its less common to fail than aftermarket glass.
Thanks for very helpful video. Tip. Check your windshield washer functionality to make sure both washer spray heads work after windshield replacement. Guess what. Sometimes when the place new windshield on car they can pinch your washer hose UNDER the edge of the windshield glass! Don’t ask me how I know. This happened to me and my son’s car. Before we drove away from shop, I asked my son to actuate his windshield washer. He did and one of sprayers didn’t work!! Pinched under glass. My son was amazed. How did I know!?! 😂
I bought a used '02 camry with a 2AZ-FE with 200k mi. to use as a delivery vehicle when I was a payroll courier. Since I was driving 100+mi./ day, I refueled when it reached halfway. Never had problems, and still drives like new
your refueling at half a tank is delusional and unnecessary
The first issue can be easily solved by filling it up and then topping it off with $10 to keep it full. It also gives you the insurance of a full tank, in case you don’t have the funds to top it off for a while.😊
Congratulations, that's exactly what he says
I think the real issue with these people is they cannot save, and given the opportunity to use that full tank, they will spend the $10 on something else until it is empty again...
The whole thing is irrational
Such a great blessing to us Car Care Nuts!!!
He definitely is!!
Can confirm. My wife's I4 GDI did nothing but 1 mile trips for years and it had a persistent trouble code relating to the catalytic converter. Never did take it to the shop since was still working and there is no mandatory inspection where I live. Long story short, once it started being driven longer distances that code cleared on its own. Had a later problem with weak engine performance after it sat idle for six months and I took it to the shop. The mechanic told me my gas had gone bad which caused the computer to go haywire tweaking parameters to improve fuel combustion, and that it also had a terrible carbon buildup. Solution was to a full tank of premium and to take it on high-speed a road trip to burn off the carbon. It's been running like a charm ever since.
Hearing you talk about the ignition key thing reminded me of my old '89 Caprice. I could start the car, pull the key, get out, lock it, and pop into the convenience store with it still running in the middle of winter. The '86 Bonneville I had before still had the separate ignition and door keys, so the trick wasn't needed. I miss those days. But, that's what remote start is for now.
My dad altered the ignition in my Dodge 600 by shoving the key in upside down years ago and getting it back out. His Ford key was double sided. Fortunately it did not damage the ignition and gave me a new function of being able to pull out the key while it was still running, locking it, running in to drop things off, and then leaving. I wouldn't suggest it but that was a cool function. People always thought I was a cop behind them in that car and would move out of the way, but only at night cuz it was a baby blue in color.
I didn't know that finer detail on the "Italian tune-up." Granted a 30+ mile highway commute each way I figured kept the vehicle humming better, but maybe it is time I push the humble Camry a little harder some days.
Any car except a diesel...they wont tolerate RPM over 3000 rpm in most cases.
I know if I redline or close to redline, my Rav4 is going to give me a bad driving score, lol.
@@donreinke5863your so wrong about diesels. They get so much carbon build up. You have to drive them hard.
@@Mastr-Tech Uh, NO.
3000rpm is winding most diesels high except a few in passenger cars. Peugeot had a high rpm diesel and even it wasnt close to redline on a gasoline engine.
Take a look at the tach redline on most light duty diesel trucks. 3000-3500 is about the limit. Even less for big diesels, even the 2 stroke "screaming" Detroits.
Sorry you dont have the experience I do. Youll learn...maybe.
@@sharonthehuman5954 Simply select a lower gear..the RPMs will come up in a hurry, likely at or below the speed limit.
Worried about carbon build up as I have a 1.8L 4 Cylinder, Direct Injection, Turbo and yes, I do give it a good blast every once in a while......Sadly I do short trips, but always let it warm up with oil changes around every 6K miles...Great advice as usual....
You will get buildup on the intakes. I have 80k on my 2.0 Di (2014 ford fusion), so mostly short journeys) and have manually cleaned out the intakes regularly. It is amazing how much builds up. Literally pull out globs of goo every 20k miles (1-2 years). I tried seafoam in the intake for a while, but it just didn't do enough. Same with a low-volatility oil - tried Amsoil. I think it helped, but not enough to make an appreciable difference for me.
But, I honestly don't know what level of buildup actually becomes an issue - I've never noticed any difference before/after cleaning in my case.
IDK how much walnut blasting costs, but maybe consider having that done at 50-80k or 6-8 years whichever is longer (yes longer, if you are doing a lot of miles, you can definitely go longer than 50k). Just based on my experience of actually seeing the buildup over time. Maybe give you some idea, IDK.
I have the L15CA from Honda in my ride. A 1.5L 4 cylinder turbo engine with direct injection. What I do is drive my car right away after turning on the vehicle. Drive the vehicle casually. Turn off my vehicle after arriving to my destination. My drives are 20 minutes long in stop and go or crawling traffic both ways, home to work then back. I fill the vehicle up with the recommended fuel, which is premium. So 92 octane here in the PNW. I do drive my vehicle hard when necessary or for fun and it is to redline. I get my engine's oil changed every 2000 miles at the Honda dealership. 11,600 something thousand miles and no issues!
@@edwardjenner1381so do you know if using a few once’s of Lucas gas treatment here and there for preventative maintenance is a no no for new cars?
@@guitarplayer4429 It is fine as far as I know, I would use it. But gas treatment won't help for carbon buildup on intake valves on direct-inject engines - mentioning that since it is the topic here.
But for general cleaning of injectors and fuel system any of those treatments is fine. They high octane fuel with extra cleaning additives beyond what the companies put in their gas.
Your advice and knowledge is always epic, thanks so much! What's irritating is seeing people driving with handicap placards on the mirror. It clearly states not to drive with it on.
I find foreign flags most irritating myself. If that place is so great then why are you even here? 🤔
One of my vehicles is a 1941 GMC CCKW 353. It has an inline 6, I don't think there's even a turbo for that. But you did say 'modern'. But my stepfather used to say that it doesn't cost any more to keep the top half of the tank full.
Lots of good advice on this one, thanks for the video!
What’s a long trip every once in a while? Like 30 miles once or twice a week or a new state? Not specific enough.
Re: Italian tune-up, I’ve always said “four or five [thousand rpm] once a drive keeps the engine happy & alive”
7250 rpm on my base '07 Honda Civic manual. I do this every month. 60 mph in second, 94 mph in third. 191k miles on odometer, purrs like a kitten. 5k oil changes, religiously.
Back in the day we would get "old ladies cars" in. I would take them out and drive them like I stole them. The amount of carbon coming out the tailpipe would make them look like a diesel with cranked-up injectors.
They always ran better after that.
I change my oil every 6 months or 3k miles now because of your suggestion. When I take it to the dealer to get changed, they always say it's not due and that I don't need to do it. But I always insist. You'll get push back from the dealers and service guys, just know that sometimes you gotta push through that wall and tell them to change the oil. You're the only one looking out for your car imo.
True. Tell them to look at the at Toyota Maintenance guide in the glovebox. It say 5k mile, 6 month oil changes are required if the car is driven under special operating conditions. Then ask them why do they assume that nobody drives in those conditions.
If changing oil often, then go all the way, have it changed at every fill up.
@georgeburns7251 That would be perfect but it takes too long.
Simple and clean. The Car Care Nut way! Great video!
I've watched several of your videos now and you're very easy to listen to, and the advice is very useful. I would like to thank you for that! This is really invaluable advice for the first time car owners, even if you get a used car, because the advice itself tells you what to look for in a used car to see if the owner was neglecting some of these best practices or not.
One of the things I would like to see in your video is you repeating the title of each chapter out loud, even if it's not word-for-word. Your videos are just short of being watchable with audio only, and this is the only missing bit. Currently it's not immediately clear what the current chapter will be about.
What a great Channel! Great content and always something to learn. I change the oil in all my vehicles every 6000 km Faithfully in all of my vehicles that I've ever owned. Needless to say I've never had an engine problem in any of my cars. I have the GM 3.6 l engine in one of my vehicles which gets a bad rap due to timing chain issues because people don't change the oil enough or let the dirty oil get low. Also the oil change monitors for these engines is way too long causing issues. When I reset my oil monitor I change the oil at 50% which is about 6,000 km or so. The engine has almost 300,000 km on it and runs quiet and smooth. Everyone should take the car care nuts advice and change their oil regularly a proper intervals. Thats smart advice.