Finally a hands on attitude for untrained but interested ppl. And you show what you do for ex the sound deadning in the wheel section. Everbody else talks about it, but nobody showed it. thanks for that, helps me a lot seeing it visually. A little side note: I would emphasize the three layers clearer to your audience, because I had to rewind a few time to get the layers right as a beginner with the project of sound deadning.
Safety: as well as using axle stands, chock the wheel on the opposite corner both front and back of the tyre. Especially when working on a slippery, loose, or sloped surface! A pair of folding wheel chocks is cheap, or if you have scrap wood around you can make your own. A lot of sound deadening is reducing the pitch of the noise - that's what adding mass to a vibrating panel does. Low pitched rumbles are less annoying than whistles and hissing noises. It may not be much quieter to a sound meter but changing the timbre of the sound makes the ride more comfortable.
As someone who works in the noise field, it's worth noting that a 1-2 dB noise difference isn't really noticeable in the human ear, 3dB difference is slightly noticeable, 5dB is a distinct difference, 10 dB difference is a doubling/ halving in noise. Definitely invest in a breaker bar for your wheel nuts, and a jack!
Nice video, it was really annoying to do this to my forester and it took waaay more than I thought it would, but I hope it’ll make a difference because I haven’t driven it yet and I still have to finish putting it back together. Hopefully I’ll get some time to start making videos on the partial restoration that I’m performing on it soon! Only thing I would correct you on is to not take the clips (you call them studs) like that. That tool shouldn’t go under the clip directly. First you use the lever to pop the center of the clip out (it shouldn’t come out all the way but some do) and only then you pry underneath it. That’s how they are made to work and you risk damaging the clip or the plastic that it’s holding by just prying them out directly. Also, don’t tighten your wheels by stepping on the wrench, buy a torque wrench and use that. Thanks for doing this and showing the results!
Interesting video. I spotted a couple of things whilst you were taking wheels off & jacking up etc, so here is some unsolicited advice. First, don't remove wheel nuts completely until the car is off the ground; this is likely the reason that the last 2 were so difficult to remove. Removing a wheel nut whilst another is tight causes the wheel to not sit quite as flush, meaning there is more tension held in the remaining bolts. Usually, i'd crack the wheel nuts loose before jacking up, before removing them completely. Another thing about jack stands. Those ratcheting stands are really strong, and usually come with a pin system to secure the ratchet in place which adds more stability and another line of defence if something bad were to happen.
Hey nice work! I've turned on notifications so I won't miss any updates if you add more soundproofing in future. It's interesting how car manufacturers have progressively made their cars better soundproofed over time. I'm a Toyota owner too and in the earlier stages of soundproofing it... Not the quietest cars but ripe for DIY improvement. One thing that Toyota have been doing in the factory more recently I've heard is blocking up gaps and hollows and channels where noise might enter the cabin... Might be something to consider for yourself I dunno... Any gaps in parts of the vehicle or materials that actually block sound transmission can let through an unexpected amount of noise for the size of the gap... Like when you open a car window just a tiny crack you notice a huge amount of noise gets in as though you'd opened it a lot more... Even when parked in traffic so it's not from wind or air movement it's just from the properties of sound travel... A general principal to keep in mind... And as everyone in the comments here is giving their two cents worth I might as well make another suggestion too... I've done lots of research on tyres over the years... and I'm not sure how meaningful those eu tyre label decibel ratings are... I'm sure they have some degree of accuracy but a more reliable source I think would be comparative testing that's done for example on some TH-cam channels like Tyre Reviews I think a good one is called. Unfortunately though there's not a lot of good comparative testing out there... So I'm planning on doing some of my own myself... But there are definitely tyres that are quieter than the ones you've got I would wager. And probably quieter than those Yokohama tyres too... Maybe if and when the ones you've got wear out and it's time for new ones... Because fair enough you got them for a bargain and they're decent brands and quality so not the worst either I'm sure and I'm not criticizing that decision at all... There's not enough guidance out there to make spending big money on tyres sensible... I might suggest looking at Goodyear Efficientgrip variants though. I remember they were the quietest in one big test. ...I'm planning on upgrading the wheels on my car like you did too! I hadn't heard that alloy wheels might be quieter but I have often wondered about it actually... So I learnt something! Cheers
Do NOT cut your vapor barrier like that, there's a reason for the vapor barrier, and it is to keep moisture OUTSIDE of your car. Water that rains onto your windows goes down the doors and drains through the doors. With heavy rain and a cut vapor barrier, the water will make its way inside the cabin and you will end up with a soggy floor.
Is it just me who can barely notice the difference all this made? Im thinking about doing my '78 Cavalier but if its not going to make much difference, i might forgo it and avoid any chance of rust forming behind a poorly adhered mat
Hi there. I think it's worth noting a few things. I've only focused on sound pressure here that is measured with a decibel meter. viewers on TH-cam seem to be addicted to decibel meter results even though it's only really part of the overall picture as it's only measuring sound pressure. It doesn't include timbre (that quality of a sound), which this does improve by turning something like an annoying whine into something more enjoyable. Texture is also missed and because you are adding a new material into the mix, it changes how sound travels and interacts with each object, creating a more pleasant place to be. Vibration is also improved, so if you have an older car, it will make a nice difference to the quality of your ride and I will caveat all of the above with this: Buy quality stuff - The sound deadening mats I used are only 50mil, but most these days are 70-80mil. buying quality materials matters, so if I were to do it again, I would likely start there.
Yeah, I can certainly see that argument. I think it's important to think of the improvements outside of the decibel scale as that only measures sound pressure, which is certainly important but it doesn't cover everything. When you perceive sound on a day-to-day basis in the cabin, you do notice it and there is still a lot that can be done to lower decibels, but it's whether you think you are getting value out of it, isn't it. For me, I think it is absolutely worth it and you'll only really find out by doing it and experiencing it for yourself. I think the quickest win is changing your tyers to quieter ones (as an example, going from 70db to 68db). If you notice a difference with that, then you'll also feel it when you start soundproofing wheel arches and doors, etc.
I've used some footage, but it's been made from the ground up, so lots of new stuff 👍 The beginning section is entirely new, the wheel arch section now actually covers removing the wheel arch, the door section covers two new materials you can use, There is an updated section for the bonnet + firewall + footwell and an entirely new section on tyres, so I'd recommend you give it a watch if you have the time.
@@jamieaygo One thing I've noticed is at 29:17. The before/after parts sound too similar. Are you sure those are actually different audio clips? Otherwise, great video. This inspires me to soundproof my Nissan Juke
Yes, you are right, they do sound similar. In honesty, I've worked on this for months so I wouldn't like to rely on my memory and give you an affirmative yes or no. I'd be more inclined to view the results in totality as a more accurate measure of improvement, but good spot!
I'm not entirely sure at present, but I will update that in the description when I get around to it. I'll also be looking at how it impacts MPG's, too.
Yeah, I can see that. It depends what you value it for. For me, I like that it makes my rides around town and on the motorway quieter, but you are right in that it could potentially impact things like fuel economy, which is what some people value about these cars.
If you put the wheel youve just taken off the car , under the car you give your self a survival space should the car fall. Costs nothing and takes very little effort , as well as it being the difference between cutting your foot off , and walking away with a bruise , it lets you get the jack back under the car should it fall ... worth a thought.
If anything it should make your sound system sound better! Some of the products I've used mention this specifically. The only thing some people have noted is that it takes away from the rattle that you get when you turn up the volume (bass specifically), but if you'd rather not have that then happy days.
Two years ago I did soundproofing in my car mainly to improve sound quality. It WILL be massively better with the same setup you have already. Road noise was just an additional bonus for me :) Treated all 4 doors and engine cover in Peugeot 3008 from 2018. Way better and nicer car for couple hundreds :)
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Finally a hands on attitude for untrained but interested ppl. And you show what you do for ex the sound deadning in the wheel section. Everbody else talks about it, but nobody showed it. thanks for that, helps me a lot seeing it visually.
A little side note: I would emphasize the three layers clearer to your audience, because I had to rewind a few time to get the layers right as a beginner with the project of sound deadning.
Thank you! Yeah, that’s a good idea. It actually took me a few times to get it to sink in, too 😂
Safety: as well as using axle stands, chock the wheel on the opposite corner both front and back of the tyre. Especially when working on a slippery, loose, or sloped surface! A pair of folding wheel chocks is cheap, or if you have scrap wood around you can make your own.
A lot of sound deadening is reducing the pitch of the noise - that's what adding mass to a vibrating panel does. Low pitched rumbles are less annoying than whistles and hissing noises. It may not be much quieter to a sound meter but changing the timbre of the sound makes the ride more comfortable.
Thanks for adding to this so thoughtfully, Greg.
When you remove the wheelwell clips, you pull the center out first, and that will make removing the clip easier.
Cheers for the tip, mate!
As someone who works in the noise field, it's worth noting that a 1-2 dB noise difference isn't really noticeable in the human ear, 3dB difference is slightly noticeable, 5dB is a distinct difference, 10 dB difference is a doubling/ halving in noise. Definitely invest in a breaker bar for your wheel nuts, and a jack!
Thanks, dann.
that's completely wrong. 3db is the difference that results from doubling the noise source. one speaker with 20db + second speaker with 20db = 23db.
Nice video, it was really annoying to do this to my forester and it took waaay more than I thought it would, but I hope it’ll make a difference because I haven’t driven it yet and I still have to finish putting it back together. Hopefully I’ll get some time to start making videos on the partial restoration that I’m performing on it soon!
Only thing I would correct you on is to not take the clips (you call them studs) like that. That tool shouldn’t go under the clip directly. First you use the lever to pop the center of the clip out (it shouldn’t come out all the way but some do) and only then you pry underneath it. That’s how they are made to work and you risk damaging the clip or the plastic that it’s holding by just prying them out directly. Also, don’t tighten your wheels by stepping on the wrench, buy a torque wrench and use that.
Thanks for doing this and showing the results!
Nice! Love the Forester. Such an underrated car! Thanks for the tip on the clips. Will keep an eye out going forward.
Interesting video. I spotted a couple of things whilst you were taking wheels off & jacking up etc, so here is some unsolicited advice. First, don't remove wheel nuts completely until the car is off the ground; this is likely the reason that the last 2 were so difficult to remove. Removing a wheel nut whilst another is tight causes the wheel to not sit quite as flush, meaning there is more tension held in the remaining bolts. Usually, i'd crack the wheel nuts loose before jacking up, before removing them completely.
Another thing about jack stands. Those ratcheting stands are really strong, and usually come with a pin system to secure the ratchet in place which adds more stability and another line of defence if something bad were to happen.
Cheers, Jake! Appreciate the advice!
Hey nice work! I've turned on notifications so I won't miss any updates if you add more soundproofing in future. It's interesting how car manufacturers have progressively made their cars better soundproofed over time. I'm a Toyota owner too and in the earlier stages of soundproofing it... Not the quietest cars but ripe for DIY improvement. One thing that Toyota have been doing in the factory more recently I've heard is blocking up gaps and hollows and channels where noise might enter the cabin... Might be something to consider for yourself I dunno... Any gaps in parts of the vehicle or materials that actually block sound transmission can let through an unexpected amount of noise for the size of the gap... Like when you open a car window just a tiny crack you notice a huge amount of noise gets in as though you'd opened it a lot more... Even when parked in traffic so it's not from wind or air movement it's just from the properties of sound travel... A general principal to keep in mind... And as everyone in the comments here is giving their two cents worth I might as well make another suggestion too... I've done lots of research on tyres over the years... and I'm not sure how meaningful those eu tyre label decibel ratings are... I'm sure they have some degree of accuracy but a more reliable source I think would be comparative testing that's done for example on some TH-cam channels like Tyre Reviews I think a good one is called. Unfortunately though there's not a lot of good comparative testing out there... So I'm planning on doing some of my own myself... But there are definitely tyres that are quieter than the ones you've got I would wager. And probably quieter than those Yokohama tyres too... Maybe if and when the ones you've got wear out and it's time for new ones... Because fair enough you got them for a bargain and they're decent brands and quality so not the worst either I'm sure and I'm not criticizing that decision at all... There's not enough guidance out there to make spending big money on tyres sensible... I might suggest looking at Goodyear Efficientgrip variants though. I remember they were the quietest in one big test. ...I'm planning on upgrading the wheels on my car like you did too! I hadn't heard that alloy wheels might be quieter but I have often wondered about it actually... So I learnt something! Cheers
Thanks for adding to the conversation in such a meaningful way. Sure to help others!
Do NOT cut your vapor barrier like that, there's a reason for the vapor barrier, and it is to keep moisture OUTSIDE of your car. Water that rains onto your windows goes down the doors and drains through the doors. With heavy rain and a cut vapor barrier, the water will make its way inside the cabin and you will end up with a soggy floor.
Thank you! One to know for next time time.
Thanks! Really helpful!
Glad it helped!
Is it just me who can barely notice the difference all this made? Im thinking about doing my '78 Cavalier but if its not going to make much difference, i might forgo it and avoid any chance of rust forming behind a poorly adhered mat
Hi there. I think it's worth noting a few things. I've only focused on sound pressure here that is measured with a decibel meter. viewers on TH-cam seem to be addicted to decibel meter results even though it's only really part of the overall picture as it's only measuring sound pressure. It doesn't include timbre (that quality of a sound), which this does improve by turning something like an annoying whine into something more enjoyable. Texture is also missed and because you are adding a new material into the mix, it changes how sound travels and interacts with each object, creating a more pleasant place to be. Vibration is also improved, so if you have an older car, it will make a nice difference to the quality of your ride and I will caveat all of the above with this: Buy quality stuff - The sound deadening mats I used are only 50mil, but most these days are 70-80mil. buying quality materials matters, so if I were to do it again, I would likely start there.
Great series, saw every one of them.
Too kind!
Seems like a significant amount of effort for 1-2 decibel drops!
Yeah, I can certainly see that argument. I think it's important to think of the improvements outside of the decibel scale as that only measures sound pressure, which is certainly important but it doesn't cover everything. When you perceive sound on a day-to-day basis in the cabin, you do notice it and there is still a lot that can be done to lower decibels, but it's whether you think you are getting value out of it, isn't it. For me, I think it is absolutely worth it and you'll only really find out by doing it and experiencing it for yourself. I think the quickest win is changing your tyers to quieter ones (as an example, going from 70db to 68db). If you notice a difference with that, then you'll also feel it when you start soundproofing wheel arches and doors, etc.
Another interesting and informative video review. Thanks 🎉
Thank you!
Is this a compilation of all previous videos you've done?
I've used some footage, but it's been made from the ground up, so lots of new stuff 👍 The beginning section is entirely new, the wheel arch section now actually covers removing the wheel arch, the door section covers two new materials you can use, There is an updated section for the bonnet + firewall + footwell and an entirely new section on tyres, so I'd recommend you give it a watch if you have the time.
@@jamieaygo One thing I've noticed is at 29:17. The before/after parts sound too similar. Are you sure those are actually different audio clips?
Otherwise, great video. This inspires me to soundproof my Nissan Juke
Yes, you are right, they do sound similar. In honesty, I've worked on this for months so I wouldn't like to rely on my memory and give you an affirmative yes or no. I'd be more inclined to view the results in totality as a more accurate measure of improvement, but good spot!
Low profile tires have a higher sound level and are rougher riding.
My Aygo is the quietest car I've owned, having said that I've still found your videos interesting.
That's awesome to hear! Thank you!
@@jamieaygo Blimey somebody put those wheel bolts in way way too tight!
Yeah, they were almost welded on!
How much weight did it add
I'm not entirely sure at present, but I will update that in the description when I get around to it. I'll also be looking at how it impacts MPG's, too.
shoud've change scale in dBA, no dBb, difference will be 3-5 dB min
Ah, interesting. Will look into this, thanks!
Applying all those soundproofing measures for cars of that class doesn't make a lot of sense
Yeah, I can see that. It depends what you value it for. For me, I like that it makes my rides around town and on the motorway quieter, but you are right in that it could potentially impact things like fuel economy, which is what some people value about these cars.
If you put the wheel youve just taken off the car , under the car you give your self a survival space should the car fall. Costs nothing and takes very little effort , as well as it being the difference between cutting your foot off , and walking away with a bruise , it lets you get the jack back under the car should it fall ... worth a thought.
Great tip that, Tom. Thanks for sharing!
how will this affect my sound system. Does it lower the volume from the speakers?
If anything it should make your sound system sound better! Some of the products I've used mention this specifically. The only thing some people have noted is that it takes away from the rattle that you get when you turn up the volume (bass specifically), but if you'd rather not have that then happy days.
Two years ago I did soundproofing in my car mainly to improve sound quality. It WILL be massively better with the same setup you have already.
Road noise was just an additional bonus for me :)
Treated all 4 doors and engine cover in Peugeot 3008 from 2018. Way better and nicer car for couple hundreds :)
electric knife is needed to cut foam
Thanks for the tip, Will! I'll look at picking one up!
Or a bread knife isn't bad either. The serrations help make a cleaner cut than a single sharpened blade