Put it in gear to break the jam but loose. Your adjuster moves when you tighten the jam nut, use a wrench and keep your Allen in the adjuster to hold it where it was
Good video. I also replaced the plastic OE piece (clutch adjuster) with a superior metal piece from Fat Baggers. It was $50.00 but to me the piece of mind and eliminating another potential HD OE piece from failing, is well worth it. I've also replaced the OE plastic transmission cover plate with a Trask M8 Checkvent; aside from the superior metal piece from Trask, my crankcase is now properly ventilated. I prefer the Task piece over a Vented Billet Oil Dip Stick; Vented Dip Stick does work, however venting with the Trask is my preference. Tom M., '21RGS Snake Venom/Black. My mods/upgrades (so far): Full S&S 465c Cam Chest; S&S 2-1 Sidewinder; Fuel Moto # 3956 Air Cleaner (w/stock HD Outer Cover & 114 Cu In Badge); Trask M8 Checkvent; Dynojet PV3-B Tuner (Map by Fuel Moto). Color matched by HD: HD Wrapper front fender & Headlamp Surround. Rockford-Fosgate/HD Stage-2 Audio & SirrusXM. Custom dark green stiched Saddlemen Road Sofa Seat & passenger pad. HD Lo-Chiesel Bars. HD Kahuna collection grips, floorboards, Derby Cover & Timing Cover. HD Docking Station, Detachable Sissy Bar & Rear Luggage Rack Wing w/LED. HD LEDs (all). Additional waiting install presently: S&S 55mm Metal Intake Manifold (ported by Ward). Darkhorse Crankworks Man-O-War Compensator. Future planned (eventually): S&S 114/117-to-128 Big Bore Cylinders/Pistons. Level A (or B) Heads. Replace S&S 465 Cam with S&S 540 Big Bore Torque Cam (& Top end Gorilla Kit...Roller Rocker Arms, etc.) SE 64mm Intake & TB. Or...S&S 131 Stroker Kit (4.625" Stroke, 4.250" Bore).
Thanks for watching! Yeah! I hear those can go. Smart move by getting ahead of the problem. Sounds like you got a great build going on👌🏻 making me jealous lol
Thanks for yet another video I’ve learned from. Last one of yours I used was actually in your intro to this one (pulling the front fairing). Great work man. I will say, doing this on a 23 RGL with factory lowers was NOT easy, but the clutch parts were all just like you showed. That plastic tube protecting the adjuster is a PAIN to slip up and back down. It seems to get mostly caught on the spring. All good though! Clutch adjusted and while I had it loose I pulled the pins on the lever, greased the lever internals, and shot some lube down the cable. Couldn’t have done it without you! Thanks again for your work here.
Also, I highly recommend adding a Fan to the Oil Cooler. Get the Fan from either HD or ThunderMax, easy simple install and have the HD Dealer flash the ECM. If tuning with Dynojet (PV3-B in my case for '21-'22 HD), ensure the Programmer checks the box on the Map to let the ECU know there's a Fan added to the Oil Cooler. And if RDRS equipped, include that in the Map too! Make sure you know which "Strategy Number" your '21-'22 HD has in the ECU. Ride safe and maintain situational awareness (re: distracted drivers in cars, and potholes, etc. in the roadway).
Question, I did the job all incorrect, I was focused more on the clutch basket, I turned mine back 4 hard times and then forward. Now I’m hearing noise when I crank my bike…
Good video. I have an ‘18 Limited with a hydraulic clutch so it can’t be adjusted but the new cable adjustment is a bit easier that on my older Harleys.
Good how to video 👍Next time you have the derby cover off put some of the heavy duty clutch springs in. They're about 30 bucks a set. They help reduch slipping too.
4:15 great video, however, I do have a question. I have the ultra limited with all the radiators and such. I tried doing the clutch this morning for a lubrication and cannot get my hands inside that thing to get any movement. Do you have any videos on how to access the clutch area with the radiator covers still installed. Thanks again, great video.
Thanks for the great video, not sure why you would feel you have slip at 10,000 miles but it’s,the schedule in the maintenance for sure. Thanks for making it easy. Mine still tight at 9700 miles on my 21 RGL. That’s one sharp looking Glide, bud. 👍🏻
Thanks! Its still doing it a bit. I think it’s actually slipping or hanging from the oil I was experimenting with in the primary before my last trip. I think it’s too heavy, so I’ll be changing that and seeing if it’s better
I know I'm late here but the torque spec for the derby cover is 25 to 35 in-lbs. At 84 to 108 in-lbs you'll be stripping the screw holes in your outer primary cover. 25 to 35 is what is stated in my 2021 service manual.
Got new levers for my 22 RG Special, shouldn’t be to bad to do, wonder how long that plastic and spring will last on the adjuster, might go aftermarket on that too
What kind of levers did you go with? I hear Fat Baggers makes a replacement cable that is all metal for the adjuster for relatively cheap. I’ve heard some people complaining that the stock plastic adjuster has have failed on their bikes.
@@MotoHeadKyle Got 1finger levers thru Deadbeat customs 10% off, putting on BMC hoop tease bars and Arlen Ness grips and mirrors this week, I seen Fat baggers product, might replace the whole dam thing, if I can find something that’s Quality👍
Can anyone tell me if these new 2 piece clutch cables need lubricated? The internal of the clutch cable itself. I’ve heard conflicting statements as to whether they do or not. It’s on a 2020 street bob.
Yes. Bigger question, why would you consider not lubricating it? It’s “wear” item and the lubrication has no negative effects. If anything it will give you a easier pull since it’s lubricated.
Kyle, because I’ve read some Harley’s have a nylon lining inside the clutch cable and it actually caused problems when people tried lubricating the cable because it degraded the inside lining. That’s why I wanted to be really sure before spraying something in there.
@@colepeters1903 an easy check would be taking a look at your owners manual or service manual. Or calling the service dept. However I have a feeling that would only pertain to the bikes that had a hydraulic clutch
Hey man wondering if you could help me out, i did this adjustment on my 21 street bob and the free play and everything is okay but when the bike is in gear and i have the clutch in the bike wont roll. i have redone this process quite a few times to get similar results. the first thing i hear or read is that its adjusted way to tight which i dont understand being that i even tried 1 full turn out from the resistance point
Yes, this is the same procedure as the 107s with a cable clutch. I suggest using an off set box 11/16 Wrench. Then, you are able to hold Allenhead bolt still while loosening and tightening jam nut.
I watched this video because I needed to see how to work that new bs plastic crap that Harley has put on the clutch cable but I did notice something about your video that was not right. You said you adjusted it because it was slipping. This has nothing to do with your clutch slipping. The clutch cable and internal adjustment are for clutch release. If you are having slipping then you will have to rebuild and put new clutches in the basket. Hope you get it fixed though. That doesn’t sound fun.
Agreed about all that plastic "crap". After watching this video, I checked my '19 Road Glide for the external adjustment - it wasn't present on the clutch cable that ran along the right side of the frame. Though, I'll still perform the internal clutch adjustment even though the bike has less than 4,400 miles on it.
@@josephbrooks2891 your 19 would be a hydraulic clutch. Therefore their is no adjustment. As it adjusts on its own. 14-20 model years had hydraulic clutch’s and for whatever reason Harley brought back a cable clutch for 21+ model years! Hard to find anything that’s not “cheap plastic” anymore. Ride safe my friend!
@MotoHeadKyle in a deep rabbit hole trying to diagnose problem with my 23 street glide ST. Had 1st service done at harley dealer. Rode it home. Tried to get on the throttle jumping on the freeway and immediately felt the clutch slip. I thought I was possibly spinning. But after digging through threads I came to the conclusion it maybe the oil they used on the transmission. 4-6 after 3k rpm just slips. Trying to shift quickly into gears is a no go as well it just hesitates. Going back to the dealer Monday morning.
@@henryornelas7827 I had that issue on an old roadking. Bike rode great. I changed the oil and put amsoil in the primary. The amsoil was too slick and caused the clutch to slip. Drained it out and put Harley convential primary in it and the problem went away. Just my experience but maybe it will help you.
Dude… this is the best clutch adjustment video ever, the lighting, the narration, the steps, the camera angle… great work
Thank you Mike! I greatly appreciate that. I try to make every video better than the last with quality🤘🏻
Definitely a great step by step video! I will try this today!
Put it in gear to break the jam but loose. Your adjuster moves when you tighten the jam nut, use a wrench and keep your Allen in the adjuster to hold it where it was
1st gear while all this is being done?
@@letiziapassanisi9967put it in a higher gear so you don’t accidentally push start it
absolutely best video on this procedure. saw three other videos before I found you. Great video bud. thank you.
Good video. I also replaced the plastic OE piece (clutch adjuster) with a superior metal piece from Fat Baggers. It was $50.00 but to me the piece of mind and eliminating another potential HD OE piece from failing, is well worth it. I've also replaced the OE plastic transmission cover plate with a Trask M8 Checkvent; aside from the superior metal piece from Trask, my crankcase is now properly ventilated. I prefer the Task piece over a Vented Billet Oil Dip Stick; Vented Dip Stick does work, however venting with the Trask is my preference.
Tom M., '21RGS Snake Venom/Black. My mods/upgrades (so far): Full S&S 465c Cam Chest; S&S 2-1 Sidewinder; Fuel Moto # 3956 Air Cleaner (w/stock HD Outer Cover & 114 Cu In Badge); Trask M8 Checkvent; Dynojet PV3-B Tuner (Map by Fuel Moto). Color matched by HD: HD Wrapper front fender & Headlamp Surround. Rockford-Fosgate/HD Stage-2 Audio & SirrusXM. Custom dark green stiched Saddlemen Road Sofa Seat & passenger pad. HD Lo-Chiesel Bars. HD Kahuna collection grips, floorboards, Derby Cover & Timing Cover. HD Docking Station, Detachable Sissy Bar & Rear Luggage Rack Wing w/LED. HD LEDs (all).
Additional waiting install presently: S&S 55mm Metal Intake Manifold (ported by Ward). Darkhorse Crankworks Man-O-War Compensator.
Future planned (eventually): S&S 114/117-to-128 Big Bore Cylinders/Pistons. Level A (or B) Heads. Replace S&S 465 Cam with S&S 540 Big Bore Torque Cam (& Top end Gorilla Kit...Roller Rocker Arms, etc.) SE 64mm Intake & TB. Or...S&S 131 Stroker Kit (4.625" Stroke, 4.250" Bore).
Thanks for watching! Yeah! I hear those can go. Smart move by getting ahead of the problem. Sounds like you got a great build going on👌🏻 making me jealous lol
Thanks for yet another video I’ve learned from. Last one of yours I used was actually in your intro to this one (pulling the front fairing). Great work man. I will say, doing this on a 23 RGL with factory lowers was NOT easy, but the clutch parts were all just like you showed. That plastic tube protecting the adjuster is a PAIN to slip up and back down. It seems to get mostly caught on the spring. All good though! Clutch adjusted and while I had it loose I pulled the pins on the lever, greased the lever internals, and shot some lube down the cable. Couldn’t have done it without you! Thanks again for your work here.
Thanks again for providing us with helpful videos that allow us to wrench on our own bikes! Thanks Kyle!
Thanks for watching ✌🏻
Also, I highly recommend adding a Fan to the Oil Cooler. Get the Fan from either HD or ThunderMax, easy simple install and have the HD Dealer flash the ECM. If tuning with Dynojet (PV3-B in my case for '21-'22 HD), ensure the Programmer checks the box on the Map to let the ECU know there's a Fan added to the Oil Cooler. And if RDRS equipped, include that in the Map too! Make sure you know which "Strategy Number" your '21-'22 HD has in the ECU. Ride safe and maintain situational awareness (re: distracted drivers in cars, and potholes, etc. in the roadway).
Thanks for the recommendations! You ride safe as well my friend!
Nice video 👍🏻 This adjustment is also good for those who are having trouble finding neutral.
Thanks for watching! Hope this video is able to help someone! ✌🏻
Question, I did the job all incorrect, I was focused more on the clutch basket, I turned mine back 4 hard times and then forward. Now I’m hearing noise when I crank my bike…
You answered my question… was wondering how often it had to be done and you covered it!
Great video!
Thanks for watching & supporting the channel!
Thanks. I need to adjust mine. The clutch is loose and at startup it rolls forward a little and the lever is loose. But bike is breaking in still. 👍🏻
Yes! Sounds like it’s a bit loose!
Good video. I have an ‘18 Limited with a hydraulic clutch so it can’t be adjusted but the new cable adjustment is a bit easier that on my older Harleys.
Great video thanks. Is there a torque value for the jam nut or just tight enough to keep it from spinning?
70-80 ft/lbs
Good how to video 👍Next time you have the derby cover off put some of the heavy duty clutch springs in. They're about 30 bucks a set. They help reduch slipping too.
Had to do this to my 21 RKS. Love how simple it was and thanks for doing this video.
Yes! Love this style clutch cable. Easy Peasy. Absolutely! Thanks for watching, Jason!
4:15 great video, however, I do have a question. I have the ultra limited with all the radiators and such. I tried doing the clutch this morning for a lubrication and cannot get my hands inside that thing to get any movement. Do you have any videos on how to access the clutch area with the radiator covers still installed. Thanks again, great video.
Is it possible to adjust the release point on the clutch lever?
Mine is releasing on the very top.
Would like for it to release sooner??
You can, just hold the spring down slightly before locking the clip on the cable back in. It will add play
Thanks for the great video, not sure why you would feel you have slip at 10,000 miles but it’s,the schedule in the maintenance for sure. Thanks for making it easy. Mine still tight at 9700 miles on my 21 RGL. That’s one sharp looking Glide, bud. 👍🏻
Thanks! Its still doing it a bit. I think it’s actually slipping or hanging from the oil I was experimenting with in the primary before my last trip. I think it’s too heavy, so I’ll be changing that and seeing if it’s better
How much extra rise is in the handle bars?
If any did you have to buy extension of any kind.
Run the adjust in and out multiple times before setting the adjuster so you know the tension isn’t debris on the threads of the adjuster
Do you know if you can do an internal clutch adjustment during the break in period?
About to do my first one and this was the best video I could have asked for
Thanks so much for watching! 🤘🏻
Nice video Kyle .. Question do you need to have the bike in gear when doing this adjustment?? thanks
Thank you! I’ve done it both ways, I find it easier with the bike in gear 🤘🏻
@@MotoHeadKyle thank you so much for replying
Do you just tighten the jam nut back or you trq spec it? My bike has 20k and haven’t even done adjustment and is also stage 2
I wish I had that Stage 2 power🤣 I just tighten the jam nut back while the Allen is till holding the new position and snug it with a wrench
WHAT IF I HAVE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH & just want to adjust the basket do i still need to do something to the actuator ?
I know I'm late here but the torque spec for the derby cover is 25 to 35 in-lbs. At 84 to 108 in-lbs you'll be stripping the screw holes in your outer primary cover. 25 to 35 is what is stated in my 2021 service manual.
Thank you
Thank you. My harley dealership trying to charge me $400 to adjust mine.
Excellent video I enjoyed watching that one you made it look easy keep the videos coming hey I saw Fiona
Thanks for watching, Steve!
@@MotoHeadKyle no problem
Got new levers for my 22 RG Special, shouldn’t be to bad to do, wonder how long that plastic and spring will last on the adjuster, might go aftermarket on that too
What kind of levers did you go with? I hear Fat Baggers makes a replacement cable that is all metal for the adjuster for relatively cheap. I’ve heard some people complaining that the stock plastic adjuster has have failed on their bikes.
@@MotoHeadKyle Got 1finger levers thru Deadbeat customs 10% off, putting on BMC hoop tease bars and Arlen Ness grips and mirrors this week, I seen Fat baggers product, might replace the whole dam thing, if I can find something that’s Quality👍
@@BrewTownBiker I’ve been looking at those levers! Let me know how you like them
@@MotoHeadKyle I will 👍
Very useful knowledge
Thanks DV!
Can anyone tell me if these new 2 piece clutch cables need lubricated? The internal of the clutch cable itself. I’ve heard conflicting statements as to whether they do or not. It’s on a 2020 street bob.
Yes. Bigger question, why would you consider not lubricating it? It’s “wear” item and the lubrication has no negative effects. If anything it will give you a easier pull since it’s lubricated.
Kyle, because I’ve read some Harley’s have a nylon lining inside the clutch cable and it actually caused problems when people tried lubricating the cable because it degraded the inside lining. That’s why I wanted to be really sure before spraying something in there.
@@colepeters1903 an easy check would be taking a look at your owners manual or service manual. Or calling the service dept. However I have a feeling that would only pertain to the bikes that had a hydraulic clutch
Great videos you’ve saved me a lot of $ between this video and some others. Thank you!
You don’t have to take the derby cover bolts out in a cris cross pattern, and a cordless impact is the easiest way to get the jam nut loose
Excellent. Thanks for the post.
Nice clear how-to. Thanks Kyle
Thanks for watching, Daryl!
Great video do one on lube the cable....
Great information, Thank You
Thanks for watching & supporting the channel!
I would change that plastic clip to the fat baggers ez clutch adjuster for $50. Plastic one's can leave u stranded or cause slipping in the hot summer
Great job appreciate your explanation
Thank you! I really appreciate that. Thanks for watching🤙🏻 ride safe!
You doing this in N or 1st??
1st! The basket still has a little slop when loosing the jam but it’ll stop when it reaches the stopping point of the gear
Great video Kyle!! Appreciate you brother!! Nice job!!
Thank you brother!
The repair manual says to torque the nut on clutch after adjustment
Yes…
Invest in an offset box end wrench. Then you can hold the clutch rod while you tighten the jam nut
I have them, I just always forget
Outstanding! Thank you!
Thank you Griffin🤘🏻
Hey man wondering if you could help me out, i did this adjustment on my 21 street bob and the free play and everything is okay but when the bike is in gear and i have the clutch in the bike wont roll. i have redone this process quite a few times to get similar results. the first thing i hear or read is that its adjusted way to tight which i dont understand being that i even tried 1 full turn out from the resistance point
Excellent work thanks for the vid !
Thank you Tall Mike!
Well explained! Thank you! 🙏
Great content 👌. Thank you
Thanks Alfredo!
Is this the same on the 107?
Yes, this is the same procedure as the 107s with a cable clutch. I suggest using an off set box 11/16 Wrench. Then, you are able to hold Allenhead bolt still while loosening and tightening jam nut.
no adjustments on my 19 roadglide anywhere
Because you have a hydraulic clutch. 2014-2020 Harley touring had hydraulic clutches 21 and newer they went back to a cable clutch
Thank you for the video
thanks mate.
You gotta leave it in first gear when you adjusting the clutch that way to basket won’t move
It was.. there’s always some slack. Hence why you can still move the bike forward or backwards in gear until it stops.
Thanks
Hii bro aapka vlog achha hai yar par mera vlog bhi dekh lo yar
It’s not an adjustment at the clutch basket, it’s an adjustment at the pressure plate
I hope no one use the torque spec for the derby cover, stupidest thing i seen thats way to high should be 35inch pound lol
I watched this video because I needed to see how to work that new bs plastic crap that Harley has put on the clutch cable but I did notice something about your video that was not right. You said you adjusted it because it was slipping. This has nothing to do with your clutch slipping. The clutch cable and internal adjustment are for clutch release. If you are having slipping then you will have to rebuild and put new clutches in the basket. Hope you get it fixed though. That doesn’t sound fun.
It ended up being the oil that I was trying in the primary.. all is good 👍🏻
Agreed about all that plastic "crap". After watching this video, I checked my '19 Road Glide for the external adjustment - it wasn't present on the clutch cable that ran along the right side of the frame. Though, I'll still perform the internal clutch adjustment even though the bike has less than 4,400 miles on it.
@@josephbrooks2891 your 19 would be a hydraulic clutch. Therefore their is no adjustment. As it adjusts on its own. 14-20 model years had hydraulic clutch’s and for whatever reason Harley brought back a cable clutch for 21+ model years! Hard to find anything that’s not “cheap plastic” anymore. Ride safe my friend!
@MotoHeadKyle in a deep rabbit hole trying to diagnose problem with my 23 street glide ST. Had 1st service done at harley dealer. Rode it home. Tried to get on the throttle jumping on the freeway and immediately felt the clutch slip. I thought I was possibly spinning. But after digging through threads I came to the conclusion it maybe the oil they used on the transmission. 4-6 after 3k rpm just slips. Trying to shift quickly into gears is a no go as well it just hesitates. Going back to the dealer Monday morning.
@@henryornelas7827 I had that issue on an old roadking. Bike rode great. I changed the oil and put amsoil in the primary. The amsoil was too slick and caused the clutch to slip. Drained it out and put Harley convential primary in it and the problem went away. Just my experience but maybe it will help you.
Your cable is in the wrong route,should be on the other side
I never re routed it?
New bike, don’t get it. You have to be beating the hell out that bike.
It was the oil in the primary that was causing the slippage. However yes, I do ride it hard. I didn’t buy it to sit in the garage
Thanks Kyle. Great video
Thank you for watching!🤘🏻