I just wish more manufacturers would just go mainline Klipper and Orca Slicer and just let the community handle the software and focus on making the best hardware.
Qidi Slicer is actually pretty nice and actually up to date unlike Klipper on the machine, and I don’t like Orca, it feels more clumsy and slow. I now exclusively use Qidi Slicer.
That is why I preordered the sovol sv08. I thought it was strange people were complaining that they were shipping with a pretty bare bones klipper cfg.
I am grateful you did a balanced review and did not whine and complain like some others do. Yes no printer is perfect but for the most part there is a lot to like with these new core xy printers. They are much better than what we had a few years ago. Some of these TH-cam channels are so negative about things that most people don't care about. And some just do it for views and will say the opposite of what others say about a printer. Keep up the good work.
2 things: - Dirty klipper repo just means there are uncommitted files in the folder. This could be happening in mainline as well if you modified the MCU configuration without committing them locally. So I don't know that that's a custom fork running. You'd need to check with "git remote get-url origin" to confirm it. - The drift on z that you were seeing for your first layer could be attributed to thermal drift on the inductive probe. If it's not a higher quality unit, there is no (or poor) thermal compensation accounting for it. That would mean that you'd get inconsistent z probe measurements when the chamber is hot, as opposed to when you had it cool off.
Thanks for the review! I happened to order mine on release day, and got mine 03/23/24. It was pretty great out of the box, but 2 big issues became obvious. First, belt tensioning system sucks. Constant ringing no matter what I do. Qidi support and I have 30+ emails going back and forth trying to figure it out. Can’t seem to fix it. The second issue is that my hot end decided to die. Doesn’t heat anymore. I then am currently in the process of returning it, but the printer won’t export log files to the USB drive so they are going to charge me return shipping. It has been a real bummer because I was so excited about this printer.
Qidi uses the inductive probe for leveling due to speed. There is a team implementing load cells into klipper for direct force readout (actual force, not just converted into a trigger signal like a cr6 or similar), probe speed and standard deviation are inverse to each outer, meaning twice the probe speed, half the accuracy. To get to klicky like repeatability they had to probe around 3mm/s or, while klicky and most other probes aren't nearly as much affected by probe speed. This would result in a agonisingly slow mesh, like you would have on very basic abl implementations for marlin printers from 4 years ago
I just got mine today and they have addressed the start up menu AND the build plate centering. There are now corner stops for the plate. The filament inlet has been moved to the side from the back too!
Never had an issue with adhesion or Z offset issues. That being said I do preheat soak the bed before meshing. For materials that require elevated chamber temperatures, I let the item cool to room temp before opening the door. These are just old habits that work for me and the Q1 Pro.
Even on my open printers I let the bed cool to the touch (usually around 30Cor so) before removing prints. With my SV07 Plus, I manually start a cooldown pass so that the aux fan runs across the bed if I'm being impatient.
FYI: klipper 0.10.0 instead 0.12.0 No Klipperscreen Armbian Buster instead Bookworm Python 2.7 instead 3.12 And all the outdated software that comes with this (fluidd, moonraker, etc.) The disk comes prefilled with a lot of unnecessary things. ~5-7GB are used of the 8GB EMMC disk. This means that additional features or even some GCODE files will fill your disk space entirely. You can't install any actual plugin due to the firmware being outdated.
While it does have Python 2.7, it does come shipped with Python 3.7.3 as stock as well. You just need to use /usr/bin/python3 instead of just python. I ported modern Klippain Shaketune to the stock Qidi OS/install just fine. Most of the "unneccesary things" is actually a full c/c++ development environment. If you don't plan to compile c/c++ directly on the printer, then you can remove those packages.
I had issues with the config for the control board fan being set to .6 which caused the printer to lock up during use of the chamber heater. After support told me to set the config to 1 the printer is not locking up anymore. I have also updated the firmware twice to now the latest. All my abs prints and silk and pla have had the best first layers ive every seen. It may be the fact that yours may have a older firmware. This printer prints abs like and absolute champ and there is a riser file for the top, as i got the same scuffing but will try to polish it out. NeeditMakeit has several upgrades to print for the machine on Maker World.
I had this Printer for one month and been printing ABS & ASA but now waiting on a new Extruder and hot end to come in from the manufacturer, it's jamming every time I change filament and it decided to RAM itself into the bed out of no where, it's a good printer prints ABS & ASA great but like you said a few quirks and that I pointed out on my overview video like no hepa filter which I printed and installed one to include a better filament holder call Kiwi.
I learned a long time ago to heat soak my bed for at least 20 minutes before recalibrating and starting a fresh set of prints. At that point, non-sticking prints became a thing of the past.
@@RocktCityTim What do you mean by recalibrating? Recalibrating as in like bed meshing and z offset or are you talking about running the auto calibration?
@@Khoomn Any time that I power off the printer for more than a few minutes, change the nozzle, or swap bed plates I re-cal the whole shebang. Adds around 25 minutes to the process, but for a functional part that will take 6-12 hours to print, that's a small price to pay.
When would the runout sensor ever be used? As soon as the filament comes off the roll, the tangle sensor will stop sending movement pulses first without any filament going through it. The runout sensor could tell if the filament breaks between the sensors, but again, the tangle one will stop sending pulses as soon as that happens.
Like some of Qidis printers but I really hate their cheap plastic panels, makes it look like a dated cheap machine. Wish they would upgrade them some some clear PC or something at least.
Why is it so hard to take the fan wires off of the cover?..Connection pads would work fine for 12/24 volt and it’s something I have been thinking about doing myself..
Rapid change of temp tends to create greater and more unpredictable warping of materials, same as with quenching a knife blade in water vs oil. Water cools down things so fast that it increases stresses in the material and increases chances of cracking and warping, the oil is only marginally slower but it makes a huge difference. Those 15 minutes of wait to cool down vs the thermal shock of immediately introducing cooler air is probably the same thing, makes things happen a bit too fast and introducing unpredictable warping making tweaking of first layer needed every time...
I wonder 1) how much does 60C vs 65C affect part strength? 2) besides being silly, what is the real downside of using old klipper? If it prints, it prints. Tinkering is not what this printer is about.
The reason for wanting mainline klipper is usually for integration of other functions. Like i wouldn't be able to use my annex tradrack on this printer, without extra work.
@@53Aries ok but this printer falls in the category "ready to use products", so it's not really the right one to mod that way. For example, the mainboard has no unused pins, so the only way would be to add a secondary USB board.
thing is, for about 300 bucks more you can get a pre-built voron 2.4 350 from Sovol, the SV08, and yes I do mean the enclosed version which is running at 700 bucks. As that version of the SV08 is, technically, a 2.4 at that point being fully enclosed, as you would have with any 2.4 kit. (Note: Quite nice that Sovol went with Canbus on it too). Also, thank God that Sovol did run vanilla Klipper on this and not their own "version", very annoying for manufacturers to do this and very very very stupid. With vanilla klipper you can do a lot of modding and tuning, much easier then trying to fumble around XX's version.
I get that induction probes are fast, but they have so many drawbacks like this, I'll never understand why they're standard now. You can pre-calibrate bed meshes for every temperature setting at much higher densities than you'd ever print with in Klipper, then just load and go based on the bed temperature used in the print. It doesn't really matter how fast your probe is then, install the one on that will give your users good, consistent results.
That assumes that the printer dimensions change only due to thermal expansion. How do you address nonrepeatable frame/joint movement (e.g. from moving the printer around)?
@@AwestrikeFearofGods You do new meshes when you move the printer. It shouldn't be happening very often. You also need to do a new frequency response calibration when you move one.
@@kerwalker4246 any other notable changes from reviewer version that stands out at all? Mine is set for delivery end of may so im not sure if its an updated version or just logistics of transport/shipping to US etc for delivery being end of May.
@@JMS7410- no all is as reviewer version other than the storage. They do provide updated print files for 110/240V heater safety cover and I guess that’s their way of getting round the possible electrical issue that to be fair is a non issue in reality. But it’s not the easiest by any means to print. ASA CF, PA or FR materials need supports but the slats on the print are so fine they break when removing the supports. I got a more suitable file online that prints no problem. Firmware has changed twice since I received the unit and it’s far more stable and I’m sure solves the bed/nozzle slamming scenario. I really don’t see them changing say the door as that’s just such a petty complaint considering it does have the “handle” recess at the bottom and to be fair it works. Why would they change it for a few reviewers wanting a “traditional handle” that they deem normal? There are a couple of minor niggles but they are minor and to date most are solvable with prints and software changes. It’s a great unit and worth the price for its capabilities. Hope this helps.
@@JMS7410-ok I will try again. No nothing has or will change I would guess. Door is not an issue as it opens and closed like a door with the provided recess handle. Enough said basically on that matter. Chamber heater - they now provide a file to print a guard so I’m sure that’s the only solution to a fairly non issue in the first place. Firmware has changed twice and appears to resolve what issues some faced. Overall they have addressed some minor issues fairly quickly and so far after a month of use it works well, in fact extremely well for the price. You won’t regret it I’m sure.
how much did you pay for this printer? I haven't bought a 3D printer yet because in israhell/palestine they cost double or triple than other countries and I don't want to remit taxes to the mafia
@@flat-earther I actually didn't buy it, I guess I should have written is instead of was. But shipping is close to $300 I think, and I would have to pay an additional 25% VAT and a handling fee of $30-40 on top of that, so It would get expensive.
@@MakerViking okay. yes. same problem here. I hope you can find a good deal. I wish I could buy stuff without having to do anything with gubments. I don't want gubments. taxation is slavery, do you think so?
@@flat-earther I'll probably end up buying a different printer. :) Governments are necessary, but some governments are worse than others. I don't agree with everything our government here in Norway does, but they are doing an ok job for the most part. Taxes are too high at least, but Norway is a good country to live in.
@@MakerViking two baby boys were kidnapped one after another from my jewish grandmother from yemen when she gave birth in a zionist government hospital
@@SolaAesir but is an actively heated chamber essential for ABS? P1S and K1(c) seem to print ABS fine. This is the big question: how much improvement do I get with ABS with heated actively vs passively? P1S reaches 50-55°C, I think.
@@olafmarzocchi6194 It depends on the size and shape of the prints you're doing. It helps a lot with warping, layer adhesion, and bed adhesion. Even the extra 10-15C a heated Qidi maxes out at (65C for most of their line) makes a big difference as you're almost double the heat over room temperature compared to 50C. If you're printing small (smaller than a fist), fairly thick walled but not solid parts that are designed for 3D printing (e.g. no sharp corners), you'll be fine with pretty much anything with an enclosure. Voron parts are a good example. If you're trying to print something larger with thin walls or that is fairly solid, you want as much heat as you can get (ideally 90-100C) and every degree makes things easier. Get any hotter than 60-65C and you start needing to move steppers, fans, and electronics out of the enclosure (or bring in outside cooling) though, so it tends to be the cutoff for printers not designed for active heating and higher temperatures from the start.
@@olafmarzocchi6194 Small parts (size of a fist or maybe two fists), well designed for 3D printing, you can get by with just a good enclosure passively heated. If you want to print larger parts or parts with thin sections or sharp edges and then you really need an active heater. Every degree of heating you can get helps a lot making those tricky parts print successfully without warping. Ideally you want a printer that can do a 90-100C chamber but that requires a custom built printer designed with that in mind (not a Voron).
@@SolaAesir I found CNC Kitchen did a test by printing ABS inside a X-max 3 room temperature, passive heated, 65 °C heating. Even small parts got a 10% increase in strength by heating at 65 °C. The Q1 Pro advertises 60 °C but accepts 65 °C as setting (I guess 65 °C starts getting too much for the heater they provide), so the results are the same
First off, that is not a load cell, but a piezoelectric sensor. I do not encounter thermal drift problems, maybe just preheat the printer, it is extremely quick compared to other printers. The nozzle is not used for the mesh, because it is significantly worse in accuracy, the inductive probe is a lot better. The nozzle probe is good enough for getting a nozzle offset or even the bed mesh, but the inductive probe is more accurate in other regards, no reason not to use it. So in conclusion, the piezo nozzle contact probe on the bed is only for the Z offset. Here are my results of probe accuracy: nozzle probe: range 0.041718 stddev: 0.013429 inductive probe: range 0.007344 stddev: 0.002062 Now another problem is that, why is the piezo nozzle probe not as accurate as one would expect? Well, I don’t know, but I do hope it was better. Slowing probing speed down could lead to the piezo not generating enough voltage to trigger, so that’s not a solution. I guess we’ll just have to accept it.
I just received my X max 3 a couple days ago and I am begging to regret my decision to get it. Was very excited waiting for it to show up and couldn't wait to unbox it. It has turned into a 1000 dollar paper weight that could have been avoided if somewhere I had been instructed never to update it. After plugging in my camera, Fluidd notified me for updates to Klipper, Fluidd, and Moonraker and of course I clicked on update all. Very bad decision cause printer does not work now and been waiting for 2 days on replay from Qidi support only thing I've got back so far is we need proof of purchase and you are not suppose to update anything due to their modified versions of firmware and software that works only with this printer. I did not get to print anything yet, but hopefully once I get help from them in the near future fingers cross it will work great cause I would hate to send it back and get a bambu :( without even seeing for myself what it can do. Starting to think I made a bad decision going with QIDI.
That looks like a cheap bambulab clone. From the design to the packaging, it really is a 1:1 copy, where expensive parts have been replaced with cheap ones. Not sure if that printer is a good investment, especially when a P1P/P1S isn't much more expensive. I think they installed an inductive probe, because they couldn't get the other sensor working well enough. (See the hundreds of pages on Klipper Discourse about getting this implemented and all the problems people have with their K1 and leveling)
Using the same arguments, Bambulab machines could be considered clones of Flashforge, Creality (they aren't all Ender 3's or CR10's), Qidi and many others.
P1S has a filament cutter and wins on print volume, but does it have 350°C nozzle, 120°C heatbed, or 60°C chamber? Then consider that the Q1 Pro is 25% cheaper.
@@stealthwang I can print PEEK and PEKK on my mk3s modified with chamber going to 90*C. Perhaps You think PC or nylon is high temp material, but they are not even close to that
It costs as much as an International version of A1 mini in China. I’m not in China so I can’t buy the Chinese locked version of A1 mini, but I can buy this printer for less, and have an enclosure, and have a actively heated chamber (which is awesome, preheats so quickly). As someone who mainly prints ABS, this machine is pure awesome. Also the customer service is extremely good, better than Bambu. I do have an A1 mini too but it’s basically useless for me.
@@eaman11 yeah the p1p is $599 and p1s $699 way better machine for not much more this is $469 so for $140 you’re telling me it’s worth it to get the q1?
Thanks for a real review! You don’t sound bought off like some others. This printer is just the ugliest thing. Many parts of it seem to be afterthoughts made on Friday afternoon.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
I just wish more manufacturers would just go mainline Klipper and Orca Slicer and just let the community handle the software and focus on making the best hardware.
They have to drop those awful customized user interfaces and do standard Klipperscreen. Sovol does that.
I agree in general but IDK how sustainable that is when companies are using custom hardware to do new things
nah, most of us (me included) just want an easy experience, like bambu labs and its very well designed ecosystem
Qidi Slicer is actually pretty nice and actually up to date unlike Klipper on the machine, and I don’t like Orca, it feels more clumsy and slow. I now exclusively use Qidi Slicer.
That is why I preordered the sovol sv08. I thought it was strange people were complaining that they were shipping with a pretty bare bones klipper cfg.
I am grateful you did a balanced review and did not whine and complain like some others do. Yes no printer is perfect but for the most part there is a lot to like with these new core xy printers. They are much better than what we had a few years ago. Some of these TH-cam channels are so negative about things that most people don't care about. And some just do it for views and will say the opposite of what others say about a printer. Keep up the good work.
2 things:
- Dirty klipper repo just means there are uncommitted files in the folder. This could be happening in mainline as well if you modified the MCU configuration without committing them locally. So I don't know that that's a custom fork running. You'd need to check with "git remote get-url origin" to confirm it.
- The drift on z that you were seeing for your first layer could be attributed to thermal drift on the inductive probe. If it's not a higher quality unit, there is no (or poor) thermal compensation accounting for it. That would mean that you'd get inconsistent z probe measurements when the chamber is hot, as opposed to when you had it cool off.
Thanks for the review! I happened to order mine on release day, and got mine 03/23/24. It was pretty great out of the box, but 2 big issues became obvious. First, belt tensioning system sucks. Constant ringing no matter what I do. Qidi support and I have 30+ emails going back and forth trying to figure it out. Can’t seem to fix it. The second issue is that my hot end decided to die. Doesn’t heat anymore. I then am currently in the process of returning it, but the printer won’t export log files to the USB drive so they are going to charge me return shipping. It has been a real bummer because I was so excited about this printer.
Qidi uses the inductive probe for leveling due to speed. There is a team implementing load cells into klipper for direct force readout (actual force, not just converted into a trigger signal like a cr6 or similar), probe speed and standard deviation are inverse to each outer, meaning twice the probe speed, half the accuracy. To get to klicky like repeatability they had to probe around 3mm/s or, while klicky and most other probes aren't nearly as much affected by probe speed. This would result in a agonisingly slow mesh, like you would have on very basic abl implementations for marlin printers from 4 years ago
I just got mine today and they have addressed the start up menu AND the build plate centering. There are now corner stops for the plate. The filament inlet has been moved to the side from the back too!
Hopefully the one I get off Amazon is the new one
@@rayDJ.AbdNas Good luck. I got mini from Qidi direct.
In addition mine also has an ethernet port. I am not sure this was standard on the earlier versions.
@@jrgenbrndum1075 I also have the Ethernet port.
Never had an issue with adhesion or Z offset issues. That being said I do preheat soak the bed before meshing. For materials that require elevated chamber temperatures, I let the item cool to room temp before opening the door. These are just old habits that work for me and the Q1 Pro.
Even on my open printers I let the bed cool to the touch (usually around 30Cor so) before removing prints. With my SV07 Plus, I manually start a cooldown pass so that the aux fan runs across the bed if I'm being impatient.
Have they updated the firmware? Would be great to use vanilla klipper.
FYI:
klipper 0.10.0 instead 0.12.0
No Klipperscreen
Armbian Buster instead Bookworm
Python 2.7 instead 3.12
And all the outdated software that comes with this (fluidd, moonraker, etc.)
The disk comes prefilled with a lot of unnecessary things. ~5-7GB are used of the 8GB EMMC disk.
This means that additional features or even some GCODE files will fill your disk space entirely.
You can't install any actual plugin due to the firmware being outdated.
I bought an xplus3 and while I do love it, these are some legitimate, if IMO minor gripes.
It’s 32GB.
While it does have Python 2.7, it does come shipped with Python 3.7.3 as stock as well. You just need to use /usr/bin/python3 instead of just python.
I ported modern Klippain Shaketune to the stock Qidi OS/install just fine.
Most of the "unneccesary things" is actually a full c/c++ development environment. If you don't plan to compile c/c++ directly on the printer, then you can remove those packages.
Base OS has Python 3.7.3 though
I managed to port the most recent Klippain Shaketune to the base OS just fine.
Klipper saying dirty can just mean shell scripts are installed
I had issues with the config for the control board fan being set to .6 which caused the printer to lock up during use of the chamber heater. After support told me to set the config to 1 the printer is not locking up anymore. I have also updated the firmware twice to now the latest. All my abs prints and silk and pla have had the best first layers ive every seen. It may be the fact that yours may have a older firmware. This printer prints abs like and absolute champ and there is a riser file for the top, as i got the same scuffing but will try to polish it out. NeeditMakeit has several upgrades to print for the machine on Maker World.
Do you think they'll fix it, based on feedback like yours, before release?
I had this Printer for one month and been printing ABS & ASA but now waiting on a new Extruder and hot end to come in from the manufacturer, it's jamming every time I change filament and it decided to RAM itself into the bed out of no where, it's a good printer prints ABS & ASA great but like you said a few quirks and that I pointed out on my overview video like no hepa filter which I printed and installed one to include a better filament holder call Kiwi.
Z offset thermal drift could most likely be caused by the inductive probe.
I learned a long time ago to heat soak my bed for at least 20 minutes before recalibrating and starting a fresh set of prints. At that point, non-sticking prints became a thing of the past.
@@RocktCityTim What do you mean by recalibrating? Recalibrating as in like bed meshing and z offset or are you talking about running the auto calibration?
@@Khoomn Any time that I power off the printer for more than a few minutes, change the nozzle, or swap bed plates I re-cal the whole shebang. Adds around 25 minutes to the process, but for a functional part that will take 6-12 hours to print, that's a small price to pay.
When would the runout sensor ever be used? As soon as the filament comes off the roll, the tangle sensor will stop sending movement pulses first without any filament going through it. The runout sensor could tell if the filament breaks between the sensors, but again, the tangle one will stop sending pulses as soon as that happens.
Like some of Qidis printers but I really hate their cheap plastic panels, makes it look like a dated cheap machine. Wish they would upgrade them some some clear PC or something at least.
why does their design language look like a washing machine and a microwave had a baby?
I thought it looks kinda cool and cyberpunk actually, ,but more because of the logo and the screen interface
though the design does contribute too
Does the Q1 Pro have the 6mm aluminum print bed as the Xmax 3 or did they thin it down?
Q1 Pro is 3mm
any suggestion for a material that could stnd the inside of a washing machine? I had the spoon holder broken and I was thinking of printing it.
Love the teal color printed parts, what’s the filament?
I would be really interested in comparison with X1C.
Is there any option to utilize common nozzle available at the market such as AliExpress?
Why is it so hard to take the fan wires off of the cover?..Connection pads would work fine for 12/24 volt and it’s something I have been thinking about doing myself..
Don't you have access to the g-code commands that do z offset, bed mesh and so on? What is to not know ?
Rapid change of temp tends to create greater and more unpredictable warping of materials, same as with quenching a knife blade in water vs oil.
Water cools down things so fast that it increases stresses in the material and increases chances of cracking and warping, the oil is only marginally slower but it makes a huge difference.
Those 15 minutes of wait to cool down vs the thermal shock of immediately introducing cooler air is probably the same thing, makes things happen a bit too fast and introducing unpredictable warping making tweaking of first layer needed every time...
I wonder 1) how much does 60C vs 65C affect part strength? 2) besides being silly, what is the real downside of using old klipper? If it prints, it prints. Tinkering is not what this printer is about.
Also, the Q1 pro accepts 65C not 60C as stated in the specifications
The reason for wanting mainline klipper is usually for integration of other functions. Like i wouldn't be able to use my annex tradrack on this printer, without extra work.
@@53Aries ok but this printer falls in the category "ready to use products", so it's not really the right one to mod that way. For example, the mainboard has no unused pins, so the only way would be to add a secondary USB board.
On their website it shows 699, where did the sub 500 thing come from?
469 in USD
pre-sale was $469 for a limited time, however I've just checked the UK store and it's still up for pre-sale price, weird
thing is, for about 300 bucks more you can get a pre-built voron 2.4 350 from Sovol, the SV08, and yes I do mean the enclosed version which is running at 700 bucks. As that version of the SV08 is, technically, a 2.4 at that point being fully enclosed, as you would have with any 2.4 kit. (Note: Quite nice that Sovol went with Canbus on it too). Also, thank God that Sovol did run vanilla Klipper on this and not their own "version", very annoying for manufacturers to do this and very very very stupid. With vanilla klipper you can do a lot of modding and tuning, much easier then trying to fumble around XX's version.
my guy you should have tested filaments like PC , ultemm,etc
I get that induction probes are fast, but they have so many drawbacks like this, I'll never understand why they're standard now. You can pre-calibrate bed meshes for every temperature setting at much higher densities than you'd ever print with in Klipper, then just load and go based on the bed temperature used in the print. It doesn't really matter how fast your probe is then, install the one on that will give your users good, consistent results.
That assumes that the printer dimensions change only due to thermal expansion. How do you address nonrepeatable frame/joint movement (e.g. from moving the printer around)?
@@AwestrikeFearofGods You do new meshes when you move the printer. It shouldn't be happening very often. You also need to do a new frequency response calibration when you move one.
Surprised to see an 8GB EMMC... on the website it says it's a 32GB. I guess they updated the retail version from the reviewer version?
Correct mine came with 32GB.
@@kerwalker4246 any other notable changes from reviewer version that stands out at all? Mine is set for delivery end of may so im not sure if its an updated version or just logistics of transport/shipping to US etc for delivery being end of May.
@@JMS7410- no all is as reviewer version other than the storage. They do provide updated print files for 110/240V heater safety cover and I guess that’s their way of getting round the possible electrical issue that to be fair is a non issue in reality. But it’s not the easiest by any means to print. ASA CF, PA or FR materials need supports but the slats on the print are so fine they break when removing the supports. I got a more suitable file online that prints no problem. Firmware has changed twice since I received the unit and it’s far more stable and I’m sure solves the bed/nozzle slamming scenario. I really don’t see them changing say the door as that’s just such a petty complaint considering it does have the “handle” recess at the bottom and to be fair it works. Why would they change it for a few reviewers wanting a “traditional handle” that they deem normal? There are a couple of minor niggles but they are minor and to date most are solvable with prints and software changes. It’s a great unit and worth the price for its capabilities. Hope this helps.
Seems my reply somehow got lost in the ether. Wonder why?
@@JMS7410-ok I will try again. No nothing has or will change I would guess. Door is not an issue as it opens and closed like a door with the provided recess handle. Enough said basically on that matter. Chamber heater - they now provide a file to print a guard so I’m sure that’s the only solution to a fairly non issue in the first place. Firmware has changed twice and appears to resolve what issues some faced. Overall they have addressed some minor issues fairly quickly and so far after a month of use it works well, in fact extremely well for the price. You won’t regret it I’m sure.
I really like this printer, but shipping was really expensive for me.
how much did you pay for this printer?
I haven't bought a 3D printer yet because in israhell/palestine they cost double or triple than other countries and I don't want to remit taxes to the mafia
@@flat-earther I actually didn't buy it, I guess I should have written is instead of was. But shipping is close to $300 I think, and I would have to pay an additional 25% VAT and a handling fee of $30-40 on top of that, so It would get expensive.
@@MakerViking okay. yes. same problem here. I hope you can find a good deal. I wish I could buy stuff without having to do anything with gubments. I don't want gubments. taxation is slavery, do you think so?
@@flat-earther I'll probably end up buying a different printer. :) Governments are necessary, but some governments are worse than others. I don't agree with everything our government here in Norway does, but they are doing an ok job for the most part. Taxes are too high at least, but Norway is a good country to live in.
@@MakerViking two baby boys were kidnapped one after another from my jewish grandmother from yemen when she gave birth in a zionist government hospital
Great that there are community fixes but I expect that I already has this part installed and me no having to fix most of there mistakes.
And if someone would like to print a lot of ABS but has no advanced knowledge or experience?
Which printer?
You really want an actively heated chamber to make ABS printing easy, so Qidi is pretty much your only option unless you want to pay 3x+ more.
@@SolaAesir but is an actively heated chamber essential for ABS? P1S and K1(c) seem to print ABS fine.
This is the big question: how much improvement do I get with ABS with heated actively vs passively? P1S reaches 50-55°C, I think.
@@olafmarzocchi6194 It depends on the size and shape of the prints you're doing. It helps a lot with warping, layer adhesion, and bed adhesion. Even the extra 10-15C a heated Qidi maxes out at (65C for most of their line) makes a big difference as you're almost double the heat over room temperature compared to 50C. If you're printing small (smaller than a fist), fairly thick walled but not solid parts that are designed for 3D printing (e.g. no sharp corners), you'll be fine with pretty much anything with an enclosure. Voron parts are a good example.
If you're trying to print something larger with thin walls or that is fairly solid, you want as much heat as you can get (ideally 90-100C) and every degree makes things easier. Get any hotter than 60-65C and you start needing to move steppers, fans, and electronics out of the enclosure (or bring in outside cooling) though, so it tends to be the cutoff for printers not designed for active heating and higher temperatures from the start.
@@olafmarzocchi6194 Small parts (size of a fist or maybe two fists), well designed for 3D printing, you can get by with just a good enclosure passively heated. If you want to print larger parts or parts with thin sections or sharp edges and then you really need an active heater. Every degree of heating you can get helps a lot making those tricky parts print successfully without warping. Ideally you want a printer that can do a 90-100C chamber but that requires a custom built printer designed with that in mind (not a Voron).
@@SolaAesir I found CNC Kitchen did a test by printing ABS inside a X-max 3 room temperature, passive heated, 65 °C heating. Even small parts got a 10% increase in strength by heating at 65 °C. The Q1 Pro advertises 60 °C but accepts 65 °C as setting (I guess 65 °C starts getting too much for the heater they provide), so the results are the same
470 Euro?! NO WAY!!
Fantastic full plastics.
Really, any better with chamber heaters?
😩🤦♂️they saw how flimsy that holder was in the factory🤷♂️why do this😂😂😂😂
Walker Sandra Garcia Maria Martinez Robert
First off, that is not a load cell, but a piezoelectric sensor. I do not encounter thermal drift problems, maybe just preheat the printer, it is extremely quick compared to other printers.
The nozzle is not used for the mesh, because it is significantly worse in accuracy, the inductive probe is a lot better. The nozzle probe is good enough for getting a nozzle offset or even the bed mesh, but the inductive probe is more accurate in other regards, no reason not to use it. So in conclusion, the piezo nozzle contact probe on the bed is only for the Z offset. Here are my results of probe accuracy:
nozzle probe: range 0.041718 stddev: 0.013429
inductive probe: range 0.007344 stddev: 0.002062
Now another problem is that, why is the piezo nozzle probe not as accurate as one would expect? Well, I don’t know, but I do hope it was better. Slowing probing speed down could lead to the piezo not generating enough voltage to trigger, so that’s not a solution. I guess we’ll just have to accept it.
I just received my X max 3 a couple days ago and I am begging to regret my decision to get it. Was very excited waiting for it to show up and couldn't wait to unbox it. It has turned into a 1000 dollar paper weight that could have been avoided if somewhere I had been instructed never to update it. After plugging in my camera, Fluidd notified me for updates to Klipper, Fluidd, and Moonraker and of course I clicked on update all. Very bad decision cause printer does not work now and been waiting for 2 days on replay from Qidi support only thing I've got back so far is we need proof of purchase and you are not suppose to update anything due to their modified versions of firmware and software that works only with this printer. I did not get to print anything yet, but hopefully once I get help from them in the near future fingers cross it will work great cause I would hate to send it back and get a bambu :( without even seeing for myself what it can do. Starting to think I made a bad decision going with QIDI.
"...and without further ado...", followed by much ado.
I think that catchphrase needs some work.
🤔a dirty clipper set up🤦♂️🤣😂🤣
chinese 3d printer companies are working so hard to confuse customers by using weird namings
That looks like a cheap bambulab clone. From the design to the packaging, it really is a 1:1 copy, where expensive parts have been replaced with cheap ones. Not sure if that printer is a good investment, especially when a P1P/P1S isn't much more expensive.
I think they installed an inductive probe, because they couldn't get the other sensor working well enough. (See the hundreds of pages on Klipper Discourse about getting this implemented and all the problems people have with their K1 and leveling)
Using the same arguments, Bambulab machines could be considered clones of Flashforge, Creality (they aren't all Ender 3's or CR10's), Qidi and many others.
Qidi was making enclosed core xy printers since 2014, if anything bambulab is a qidi clone :P
P1S has a filament cutter and wins on print volume, but does it have 350°C nozzle, 120°C heatbed, or 60°C chamber? Then consider that the Q1 Pro is 25% cheaper.
First
This one is not even close to "high temp" printer. 90deg chamber, 150deg bed and at least 450hotend would make an entry level high temp printer.
"get back to me when you can print PEEK maybe then you'll be entry level" lmao
@@stealthwang I can print PEEK and PEKK on my mk3s modified with chamber going to 90*C. Perhaps You think PC or nylon is high temp material, but they are not even close to that
Haha yeah so it’s a Bambu clone. Rather just get a Bambu.
This cost like an A1 yet it's corexy, enclosed, heating chamber, open source.
It costs as much as an International version of A1 mini in China. I’m not in China so I can’t buy the Chinese locked version of A1 mini, but I can buy this printer for less, and have an enclosure, and have a actively heated chamber (which is awesome, preheats so quickly). As someone who mainly prints ABS, this machine is pure awesome. Also the customer service is extremely good, better than Bambu. I do have an A1 mini too but it’s basically useless for me.
Stop embarrassing yourself 🤦♂
@@drconflict629 no the door and everything else is embarrassing. That thing a turd. Come one you’re embarrassing yourself
@@eaman11 yeah the p1p is $599 and p1s $699 way better machine for not much more this is $469 so for $140 you’re telling me it’s worth it to get the q1?
Thanks for a real review! You don’t sound bought off like some others. This printer is just the ugliest thing. Many parts of it seem to be afterthoughts made on Friday afternoon.