Large Fully Enclosed CoreXY 3D Printer (Qidi Tech X-Max 3)
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In today's video we dive into the Qidi Tech X-Max 3 a large CoreXY 3d printer that has a ton of features. This is the rereleased version that has the upgraded frame and steel rods instead of carbon. We will go over the printer specs, what setup was like, and how it has performed.
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*The spool on the rear is NO PROBLEM! I just bought a Ball-Bearing Turn-table at the HOME-DEPOT of $15.00 bucks and screwed it to a piece of plywood. Now the printer turns around to expose the rear spool with a touch of my "pinky finger". Think people think! This printer is the BEST value for your money right now and has fast tech support and they are on call and on the ball 24/7 unlike so many other companies that seem to be hiding in the dark after they got your money!*
4 months after seeing this and getting one myself:
They have swapped the BL-Touch for an inductive probe. I have not had any bed levelling issues at all with it so far, but sometimes it feels like the z-offset seems to very slowly creep upwards causing it to get a liiiittle too close over time. Might be from using petg consistently and the heat causing a little extra expansion on subsequent prints.
That one thing aside, this is the best pre-built printer I've ever had. I've had Elegoo Neptune 2, 3, Anycubic Kobra and a Prusa XL (bad unit, returned it, won't judge quality as most had significantly better experiences than me). The tolerances on prints I had previously had great difficulty with like Soozaphone's Dummy13 printed so much better, I was able to print a few mods for it like a side-mounted holder for the dry box inside of a couple hours, it heats up FAST, and I have only had one print fail and that was due to a bad slice.
Honestly wanted to start making videos myself about 3D printers just because of how much I like this one.
So, after watching a few of your videos, I went ahead and sub'd, You and Aurora Tech have become my two go to channels for info on printers. You both get straight to the point, give excellent pro's and con's and just help people make good, informed decisions. Well done keep up the good work, and thank you.
Your criticisms are spot on. The BL touch sensor is outdated with so many better options available. Any camera would be better than none, but it does seem like a good start.
Thank you for your review. It has given me things to think about.
Definitely gotta give QIDI the W for accepting that their product was faulty and offered replacements/refunds over the consistent issues. You know a lot of other companies wouldn't do that outside of the individual scale.
Biggest piece of advice I give to anyone that wants to buy a Qidi 3D printer, buy in whatever format offers 2 year support. I purchased the x + 2 and had a few Kinks to work out, but their support is always happy to continue to work on it, even if there are some times understanding barriers😂.
I also know someone who I do business with frequently, he has multiple X Plus gen 1 and has even rebuilt corexy in the frame of one. My x + 2 prints ASA like it is pla. My support to come off better than most TH-camrs. 3D2A machine that has printed some of the more Exotics. The high temp core and dual gear extruder has never slipped or jammed on me, and micro Swiss even stocks the particular version of nozzle.
I use the Qidi X-cf pro to test our 3d printable tools. It is pretty much the same as the x-max 3 but comes with 2 print head assemblies, 1 low temp with a brass nozzle and 1 high temp with a hardened steel nozzle. It also has the usb on the top towards the back but I just keep a usb plugged in and the send files from the office to the printer through an ethernet cable. What's not the same is that the X-cf pro doesn't come with klipper, doesn't have a heated chamber and the enclosed filament holder is on top (which is actually better than having it on the back). It also has a BL touch ABL but I leveled the bed once when I got it and haven't had to level it since and that was a year ago. So far I'm really happy with Qidi and as a side note their PA-12 carbon fiber nylon filament is awesome!
I have the X-Max 3 that has been upgraded (by Qidi) to the current(?) setup. Gone are the nine individual bed magnets, replaced by a soft magnetic sheet as well as a the BLTouch has been replaced for an inductive prox. The build plate doesn't "slot in" like it used to because of the thicker magnet being a bit higher than the stops cast into the plastic, which leads to a bit of fiddly aligning of the plate after each build. No big thing.
The hotend was replaced because it kept getting a blockage in the cold end. The fix for that was a new hotend, both covers upgraded with extra fans, and a new mini board that provided sockets for the connectors of the new fans.
I also got another hotend as well as an extruder, and new covers when my printer sucked up a massive ball of plastic and made a horrendous mess of things.
Qidi support has been nothing short of fantastic, I cannot say enough good things about their support.
As to your complaints, they are good points, but I have mine connected to Ethernet, so no need for USB except for firmware upgrades. And I removed the spool holder and have it sitting on the left-hand side of the printer. Easy access.
I didn't end up installing the magnetic pad because it was too thick for the slot in. The original magnets seems to work quite well.
I've had had weird issue where I get some partial layer shifts at around 120mm. I haven't contacted their support about it yet.
The new cover also fixes their parts cooling fan design. The original cover did not blow air around the nozzle and I did notice significant curling.
@@colinmetzger6755 I have had an on-again, off-again issue where the printer seems to forget where it is in the Z axis - could be related to what you are experiencing.
My problem with the hotend wasn't curling, but clogging. That, and feeding the filament from a new roll in behind the end of the old roll never worked. The filament would jam at the hotend every time. Replacing the hotend and the fans fixed that perfectly.
The BLTouch would alternately have a "Failed to deploy" error, and then a "Failed to retract" error, followed by a good measurement that would occasionally result in the bed beating itself against the nozzle. That hasn't happened since the BLTouch was replaced.
I also have a camera that I'm going to install tonight. I don't see as well as my younger self did, and 12 feet away is a bit tough for me to see what is going on with adhesion. :)
@@colinmetzger6755 Embedded magnets>>>>>>>>magsheets
The only reason to use a magsheet is if it's the most convenient for you or if your probe is inductive(they typically don't work with embedded magnets).
I received my X-Max 3 3 days ago and mine came direct from China with all the upgrades (including soft magnet sheet) already installed. My build plate definitely slots into place so they have most likely modified the moulds to raise the plastic tabs so the build plate slots in again. Thought I would mention it in case you feel like upgrading the part down the line.
@@MM-fc8ie Good to know, thanks!
New models come with an inductive sensor instead of a BL Touch.
Inductive sensors actually switch their trigger point quite a lot on different chamber temperature, so this doesn't seem a good idea. Even Prusas Super Pinda is stable just between 15-35°C. As far as I know, the 1st version used inductive (and the smart still does). The rev 2 was actually just changed to BL-touch.
But you are correct, in the stor they actually just added an inductive sensor for the x-max. So we now have a rev 3...
Ty
I had inductive once on the first editions of Cr10pro - never again.
agreed my new x-max 3 got it
Have changes in rotation direction for your test tower then you will see the layer lining, I am pretty sure it comes about by slight axis skewing, depending on which xy motor was driving the change.
If Qidi is taking the time to make this large high speed printer, you would think they'd move away from using antiquated CR Touch and move to load cells. I would gladly pay an extra $50-$100 to not have to go through the hassle of setting the offset.
you should ask qidi for the upgrade kit. there are new parts that fixes some issues still like changing to an inductive probe, a far better fan shroud and a more sturdy cable. qidi provides this for everyone for free
Interesting... don't see any link on their site, or do I have to contact them, directly? our Max3 is about 3 weeks old. Wonder if the upgrades aren't already there. I does use a BL touch however.
I have left an inquiry about this with QIDI. Sounds exactly like what I need to fix what ails my X Max 3.
They do t provide it all. They gave me everything for mine except the inductive probe. Still using the bl touch
@@jessemarshall7176 Mine was replaced when the BLTouch started throwing "Failed to deploy" and "Failed to retract" errors. The upgrade "kit" consisted of a magnetic sheet, an inductive sensor, and a link to firmware that took advantage of the new setup.
Excited to watch this, I’m wanting a big printer I can jus take out of the box that works and uses klipper. Hopefully this is it
This might be the one for you!
Do both power modules work all the time, or is the second one only active when using the active chamber heater?
I came really close to preordering the max but everyone was having issues with firmware
I think that it would be cool to see a filament sensor that has an inbuilt caliper thingy in it that measures the thickness of the filament entering the nozzle and auto-adjusts the flow based on the differences in thickness. It wouldn’t be necessary for people who buy high quality filament, but it would allow the use of cheaper filament
Looking to get Bamboo Lab X1E. How you would compare this printer to it?
Like always, great video 😊Just one of the concerning thinks in this printer is , how the hell it’s can be switched off without rebooting after ? This is something what I really can’t understand😤 Is it really no one in this QIDI company did’t think about so obvious think ?
I'm not sold on this thing!
For that same price range, you can get an enclosed brand name version that has been performing nicely and has a camera.
You mostly left the printer in the garage - generally where do you live? I'm in the mid-west, i'm thinking about picking one up, and I want to keep it in my garage, but it gets below zero here at times. Unsure if that will damage the printer.
Ye this printer is amazing once the upgrades are on. The hotend fans. But mostly removing that usless BLtouch and put on a inductive sensor. What a world of difference that made.
Okay, what did you mean by 'swapping the fan for LEDS so you can control it through firmware'? I have no idea what 'brand' or jargon that is for 3D printers. Is this a specific type of fan we can buy to swap out for?
Hey Modbot, I got my X-Max about 3 months ago and so far I’m very happy with it. Some trouble with bed leveling initially but now it seems ok. I notice this pattern on the Z axis you mentioned, but it appears to be support related. Every time I print something using Qidi slicer and need supports this pattern occurs. I notice that Qidi slicer automatically changes layer height causing this pattern. To confirm that I Sliced some tests using Qidi slicer and used the G-code on orca, I confirmed the layer height was shifting from 0.01 to 0.3.
It's a problem with all superslicer based slicers. There's not really a workaround other than to set top z contact distance to 0 and then select synchronize to object layers. Or use tree supports. It kinda sucks because it also changes the object layer height
good to know!! tks@@arxfatallis
For the z banding issue, you'll want to print a circle/cylinder in vase mode, not a square, the hesitation around the corners is going to affect the extrusion. A circle will mean you have a relatively constant extrusion due to more linear movements.
I have this very annoying moiré problem on my printer, where at first it seemed to be the extruder. I tried everything from replacing the spur gear, replacing the stepper motor, and finally adding "TL smoothers". The problem is ultimately the stepper driver, I just can't justify the cost of a new main board with quality drivers given what else is in the market these days. Maybe one day I will upgrade it.
Having both an X Max 3 and a P1S with AMS for the last couple of months, both about $1K, I can tell you that if I had to do it over again, I'd have purchased two of the P1S with AMS without a doubt. The P1S isn't perfect, but I've run at least three times the print jobs through it because it doesn't spend half its time in a broken state. The QIDI clogs easily. I can't even run black PLA in it reliably. I'm sure if I were using advanced materials more often, it would come off better for me than it does, but frankly I've used a ton of ASA recently and that all fell to my P1S. Most of the clogs in the QIDI are the result of bed adhesion. I have consistently poor adhesion in the SE quadrant of the bed, forcing me to keep prints off that corner. I think the biggest flaw of the printer is the BL touch. That is the biggest difference between my two core-XY printers, and I believe the reason the QIDI is so much less reliable. I wish it were not so. I have no interest in promoting the Bambu, but it is clearly the better machine. If Bambu made a 330mm^2 printer or larger, I would get one and relegate the QIDI to the shop. In case you're wondering if I've actually used the QIDI enough to master it, I've probably got 500 hours on it, which isn't much, but its enough to get to know it. I keep it inside my office in a climate-controlled environment. I feed it only new filament. It sits on a cabinet I built for it along side my always-broken CR-10 Max. I'm not a TH-cam 3D printing content creator, so I need my printers to work and be reliable. I can't be off to the next hot thing every 30-60 days.
For those of you who own this printer, if you have print adherence issues leading to clogs as I've had, the one thing I did that made the biggest difference is increasing the PLA profile to 225 on the hot end and 60 on the bed. It's not a cure-all, but it is an improvement. I got that tip from Reddit. The right-front quadrant of the bed is still sketchy, but I can push out further than I could before with the hotter bed.
I know there is no fix for the BL Touch problem. I don't think it's practical for QIDI to do more than bandaid the problem. I would be happy to pay $200 if QIDI could make the bed-leveling based on pressure sensitivity.
At this point BL touch has become a deal breaker option for me. It was an amazing little piece of kit to add to printers that had no better options, but at this point it is simply obsolete when there are far superior options as far as putting on a new printer. My other problem with the QIDI was the door and how it just makes it look cheap. I don't mind the plastic body (I have a P1s as well) but the door just looks cheap and like something you see on a kids toy. I hope in future revisions of this printer they resolve some of these issues because I would honestly love a large capacity enclosed klipper based printer in addition to my Bambu printers. I am slowly starting to evolve my hobby into a small business and as such I don't care about anything outside how reliable the printer is. My days of wanting to tinker with something are long behind me. At this point if I'm dropping serious money on a machine, I expect it to work.
Thanks for the detailed info on this machine. I currently print PC/PC+CF on my K1 and it does so flawlessly at a 0.6 or 0.4 nozzle. I use OrcaSlicer which has been great thus far but I would like/need to print a bit hotter with a hotter chamber temps which is my interest in this machine but I have heard many bad things in reliability which is a HUGE no no since I am running a small business
@@OmegaGamingNetwork I agree that any printer in the $500+ price point should have a pressure-sensing or better bed leveling process in 2023. Plus, the minute you ask someone to slide a piece of material under the nozzle and see if it scratches, you've introduced a massive failure mode into your printer. Two things printers should do without fail is maintain the correct distance between bed and nozzle, and keep the filament flowing. My first printer was an Artillery X1 Sidewinder. I've put dozens of spools through it. It never clogged (only PLA, so that helps) and once I got those fiddly wheels properly dialed in, it wouldn't need to be releveled for some time. I feel like I'm going backward.
@@Immolate62 Exactly and look I get why people dislike Bambu. I am not a fan of anything that isn't largely open source. However the reality is Bambu changed the game and set the minimum bar for what anyone should expect out of now a $300+ printer. Though I do think some of the hate direct at them for being like apple is completely unfounded as they act nothing like apple, I do understand why people have that reaction. However hating a company and not expecting other competitors to at minimum meet the raised bar however is just silly. I want to see more highly capable 3d printers at the various price points, not less. If a company wants my business, then they need to bring their A game. Don't want me comparing your printer to Bambu's? Then raise the bar and put out the next standard setter.
@@OmegaGamingNetwork agreed. Bambu isn't good because it's proprietary. Nothing that it does right, and it does a lot of things right, would be any harder to do open source. It's good because it solved the problems that prevent a good print. Everything else is secondary, and they got a lot of those things right too. The AMS, ease of setup, elegant chassis, etc. QIDI messed that up, but I dont' care about it. Don't care that it's too fat for its bed size. Don't care that the design is garish and ugly. Don't care that you can't access the filament.
This is the outdated version. They now come with inductor probes and a magnet stickered bed. Qidi is hitting the market hard. The community for these things is going to skyrocket. I have had the max for about a week, and love it. Been printing non-stop since it came in.
I was going to mention the same thing, mine came with the BLTouch and the individual magnets. The BLTouch got very flaky and made the printer unusable, and Qidi sent out the new soft magnet pad as well as the inductive probe. The only thing is now the build plate doesn't had a spot to lock in its correct position. But that just means that I have to align the plate after each build.
I had some other problems that led to me getting two new hotends, an extruder, two sets of new covers, and a few other goodies. Suffice it to say that Qidi's support has been out of this world.
Does the bed still have the embedded magnets, but they just added a sticker sheet?
@@dmax9324I'm not removing anything to find out, lol
On other videos i noticed that the samples people printed always seem to have a seem. Is that really how these qidi printers work?
Actually I do not recommend a webcam inside the printer if you print with 65°C chamber temperature. I added a cheap one and quality got worse over time. Most webcams are not made to be placed into an activly heated chamber. If you want a webcam, either make a movable holder and place it outside the front door or cut a window inside the enclosure, use a glas and place it outside.
With a printer this size you want to change nozzles more often - maybe even while printing. I changed the hotend to a Revo therefore, as all nozzles have the same size and you can of course unload the filament and cool down the nozzle, swap it by hand, rehead and reload filament. You have to combine gcode manually, as the Slicer do not support multiple (virtual) extruder with different nozzle sizes yet (Prusa works on it for their XL)
To upgrade to Revo, you need another board for the toolhead (f.e. the mks thr 36) or a 3th mcu, as neither the toolhead nor the main board has a hotend thermistor input (the qidi hotend uses thermocouple).
The door should be removeable, as printing PLA it shouldn't be closed, but open it is in the way if you place a spool on the left side of the printer. I modified my door hinges.
The reverse bowden should be replaced by a longer one (I use transperent with 3mm inside diameter). Also the runout sensor should be moved to the side. I use an active filament dryer on the left side (the spoolbox at the back I used for my 3th MCU ;-) )
The flexplate is quite expensive (about$50). But 310 by 310 fits well on the magnets, so I use cheap ones (about $16 on AliExpress) most of the time.
8GB is quite low for space, so I swapped to 32GB eMMC.
Actually I made two videos about the mods (english and german)
Revo isnt a pure upgrade. You loose the possibility to print fast as you limit your flow to 12 to 18mm3/s depending on who you ask. Also you loose the standalone feature of 350° nozzle temperature, neither the k1 max or x1c can reach that. You could use revo high temp, so you can keep using a pt1000 or pt100 and retain the above average temperature capability, but the issue with the low max flow is still there. Personally i wont use a revo in any of my printers because of the flow limitations, i dont need a quick klipper printer for 200mm/s, a flsun super racer was doing that 2 years ago
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 Thats correct. But with the RevoHF nozzle, speed is nearly the same than the original hotend, in practise this does not realy matter to me. Have searched for filaments actually profiting from 300-350°C - and found none. There are some peek variants you could print with 350°C, but they also should use a 85°C heated chamber, so different printer is needed anyways. Anyway, if I need the original hotend, its just a matter of minutes to swap back - actually it does barly matter if you swap the hotend only or the hotend+extruder combo. Just two lines in the config also to change.
Actually to swap nozzle size midprint manually with Revo is a big positive if you want shorter printing time anyways.
Also: If you want to add an automatic filament changer, a high flow nozzle always needs cut&poo for reliability. With just screwing in a standard Revo nozzle, you can use ramping and get a nice filament tip. As cut&poo takes a lot of time, using a nozzle with less flow, but speeding up filament change actually saves time over all.
Also for PA12CF and ABS-GF (wich I want the heated chamber for), you wouln't print very fast anyway - and an Obxidian I have anyways.
@@oleurgast730 i got a dragon uhf minus the uhf extender (essentially a dragon sf with volcomosq heater block, but takes v6 nozzles) that works pretty well for mmu printing. Its on my printer that was once a v0 kit, im purging into a waste bucket to not make the small build plate even smaller. Im also printing abs-gf20 at normal abs speeds (150 to 300 depending on feature). Haven't gotten much experience with nylon filaments, so cant talk about that.
Revo is nice for mmu printing because of the long steel tube in the heatsink and the fact that its 2mm ID. A rapido for example isnt that coolf for mmu printing, because it has 1,9mm ID, so needs much better tip tuning parameters and has only a short tube in the heatsink, so you have less area for cooling moves.
The hardware is fine, mine came with the inductive probe and the bed is pretty flat and it makes nice prints. What would be better is the little fan not being so noisy and it coming with more profiles that print things like PETG without needing to develop your own profile. Simply put PETG won't print with the default profiles because it doesn't want to print that fast. After a weekend of testing, I was able to make it print very nice PETG, though a bit slower.
What speed are you printing the Petg at ?
Dual PSUs -- yet they still did not raise the voltage for the steppers :(
And yea s tandard klipper screen would've been better, maybe reskin with Qidi color scheme.
So close, the chamber heating especially is nice.
My biggest concern with this printer is the bed leveling, I’ve been using the Bambu x1c pretty much exclusively for the last 6 months and the bed leveling has basically never failed me. Do you think the X-Max 3 will be as reliable?
Haven’t had any issues with mine yet. I only run a level on it about every 10-12 prints. I could definitely go further between
I have been using bltouch for 4 years now, not a single failed print or bad first layer because of it. Those saying that it is obsolete want changes for the sakes of changes only. Why change anything if it works great? Also if you watch this video it has precision bed leveling on, it probles 3x times before moving to the next point. I have never used precision probing for my BLtouch, a single probe is just enogh to be perfectly accurate.
I noticed your test Benchy's quality looked quite poor with obvious layer lines. My Qidi X-Plus 3 prints it flawlessly but I used Qidi's Rapido PLA which is specifically made for high speed printing, a spool of it ships with the printer.
I have to agree with your conclusions regarding the filament and USB locations, it's not a good decision. It feels like a step-down from my Qidi i-Mates which has a raised filament holder above the printer that can take 3 spools and the USB is located on the lower front. My printer came with an inductive probe which seems to work well. I also bought the optional smooth build plate and I've pre-ordered the camera. It's an amazing printer and a very capable machine, but to get the best out of it I just need to get to grips with Qidi-Slicer which has slowed my workflow down after years of using Qidi-Cura.
because voxel pla is garbage xD i tested it and it just produced shit
How are you liking the printer so far? Thinking about getting the X-Plus 3 as well. My worries is print quality and overall build quality. How many hours do you have with it?
@@themechanic6151 Print quality and build quality are the two things this printer excels at, so no problems there. I've had the printer for a couple of months and have used it regularly without any issues. The print speed is hypnotically fast. My main gripes about the X-Plus 3 is the constant fan noise, the filament location and its huge size, mainly its depth (600mm/24") with filament on the rear. The printer is annoyingly loud even in standby. I'm going to upgrade the controller cooling fan and change the fan grille as this causes a high pitched whine. Overall I'm happy with the printer, it's excellent value for money and the customer support from QIDI is legendary.
@SimonCoates yeah if for some reason you haven't seen it, here: th-cam.com/video/M5QfQtcKNjQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=K90F0Oh65zvD6K8E
Would you agree that print quality is on par or better than P1S? I'm on the fence between this and the P1S. Don't care too much for AMS, but if P1S is more reliable and prints better, then I might go P1S and buy hardened steel nozzle for abrasives. Although idk if P1S has heated chamber or not. Don't think so.
Have you printed large parts or other materials that are tough to print with usually and how did that go?
@@themechanic6151 I'd not used a P1S so I can't comment on that. The only filament I've used so far is QIDI's Fast PLA and ABS, some generic PLA+ and PETG/Carbon. All print without issue although I tend to print the PETG/Carbon on my QIDI-iMates which has a 0.6mm Micro-Swiss nozzle, so I can't give you any feedback on the X-Plus 3 0.4mm hardened clogging with carbon etc...
The only large parts I've printed are 350mm long and just 12mm high (across the printer bed diagonal) using QIDI PLA-Rapido, perfect first layer and flawless print. I bought the optional smooth build plate for that job.
I always print a calibration cube when I change filaments, it's a 20mm cube with 1mm walls. I've just printed a test cube in PLA+ and it measures 19.98W x 20.00D x 19.99H with walls between 0.99 and 1.00 - very impressive.
How reliable is it? I have a Creality K1 I bought when they first came out and they've had to correct many faults but now overall its pretty dependable...what faults does this one have cause i am very interested
i had the k1 max, not comparable at all. the k1 is Ewaste. 2 month now. not a single issue or failed print on the xmax3
@@NicoFritzler what materials have you tried on it?
@@user-oh9kt3mu6wpla, petg, pc, tpu, pa. Probably most
What slicer do you use with them?
Nice if it had auto z Great video
Does anyone have a .6mm nozzle profile for PETG?
Honestly the full Qidi lineup is extremely impressive for the money. I think they don't look as sleep as Bambu Lab and that's a huge part of the Apple style sleek and simple hype around Bambu Lab printers. If their next iterations can slim down a bit and add some extra features, I hope reviewers rave.
XBox 3D60
869$ now
I had one and sent it back after one week. I did not get a single print from it. Only fault warnings and failing software.
Rev 1 or 2? Was the failiure something with MKS_THR disconnected? This sometimes happen, if the USB cable had gotten loose after rough shipping.
No, intermittent failure notices. The printer would also not recognize updates on the sd card.@@oleurgast730
The choice of bltouch is baffling. Bambu, prusa, even bottom tier creality have moved on to nozzle probing.
Cable management is not Qidi's strength. Looks like a rat nest. Can't believe that an enclosed printer does not include a camera, in 2023! Oh, and the levelling with a paper! Geez! lol Good review by the way.
would like it if it didn't have that terrible looking shell
Tiny great looking Bambu or large semi ugly qidi… trade offs.. the sides of the x max are sweet, the front leave a lot to be desired but it prints like no other. I’m happy besides the rear mounted filament and power switch. Makes zero sense on a 60lb printer that is difficult to move.
first!
this isn't a "bad" printer, to be sure. and a few years ago this would have been an outstanding value. but after bambu took over the market, there is zero reason to buy this unless the build volume or closed source software of the bambu is an absolute deal breaker for people. the level of polish and out of the box "just works" aspect of bambu printers is unparalleled, and yet here we have a $1000 printer that expects you to use a peice of paper to set z-home like it's 2018 and we're all screwing around with our ender 3's. just ridiculous. oh and also, this thing is UGLY. there i said it, deal.
It may be ugly, but it does its job contrary to Creality K1.