Back top of the printer is absolutely the best location for the USB. Easy enough to get to, while out of the way enough not to get broken. Keep placing it there QIDI.
I have been printing a large auto part which has a 15 hour print time in ABS-GF for production units and the Plus 4 has not made one mistake in the 300+ hours it’s been printing them. Extremely happy with this printer for ABS. For the price point the high temp functionality and print quality it’s second to none at the moment and these would make an excellent farm printer.
Printing ASA and TPU with it, extremely happy as well! I ditched PLA and PetG in Favor of those two materials, they are extremely easy to print on the machine!
@@0Turbox good question, I did my first print I think without drying but the subsequent print I did with 4-6 hours pf pre drying because the hygrometer showed me more thasn 20% I did another round of drying during another print and from then onwards no drying anymore because I was at the minimum the hygrometer could show! But neither of the prints had problems or failed!
The Plus 4 is my first 3d printer and I'm impressed with what it does. I ordered one and started my 3d printing adventures. However, when I learned that I was going to have to replace the solid state relay, I was disappointed. Being a disable Viet Nam vet, it proved challenging changing the board. But it's done. I have the skill set, just not the motor skills any more. I love the quality of the prints. I've been doing stuff in PLA and some PETg. I wanted to do a couple of pieces in ABS. That was when I discovered the overheated SSR board. I only wish that Qidi had pulled the machines still sitting in the warehouse and done the replacement themselves.
I have had the qidi now for 4 weeks, I am very happy with it, and yes I agree it shines on high temps, printing ASA is as easy as PLA on this machine. Thanks for the review!
@@gerarderloper with pei I wouldn’t recommend it. You’ll have adhesion issues. A different bed could solve it but someone mentioned a newer heat break that is bimetal fixing the issue.
@@gerarderloper The problem with PLA is the insulated heat chamber, it might work with the bed temperature (not sure), but don´t ask me how well the adhesion works on 30c... it is really nice 50-60c pla sticks like being nailed down once it cools down it is released from the plate automatically (same with ASA but different temperature 100c). Given I moved on from PLA keeping the door opened for PLA is a non issue for me, the printer really shines at high temp materials! ASA has become defacto my filament of choice now! (But i also print in a separate area so the poisnous fumes of ASA printing are a non issue for me)
Re: the manual bad leveling. This is just an optional tramming step that is there should you be having any issues with physical bed flatness. Qidi gives you the option to achieve a better state of flatness while most other manufacturers in this space do not. There are also community provided macros that allow you to not even need to use the paper and instead a window will pop up with how much to turn the screws to achieve a fully level tram. Of course, this is all optional, and the user can just rely purely on the bed meshing to compensate for any levelling issues. Basically it's a nice to have option for those who want to achieve a better state of flatness than out of the box.
Could you link to those community tools? During the initial setup of my Plus4 I thought I was supposed to click the option that has you level the bed manually with the screws. It wasn't until later I found out you're really only supposed to do that if there is a problem, and that the bed should be perfect upon arrival. Either way, I would like to confirm I have a perfectly flat bed after every time I move the machine.
@Renwark TH-cam doesn't allow the posting of links. I recommend going to the Qidi website and finding the invite to the official Qidi Community dish cord server (misspelling intentional to get around auto mod) and join us all there
Agreed. As someone who makes functional parts that often have to interface with other components/materials, mesh bed levelling isn't as useful as physical adjustment. Great to have both.
New to the channel due to referal from Keo Print channel. Nice coverage and handling of the SSR recall regarding this printer. Okay time to check out the rest of your catalog.
This is a perfect example of something I have been saying for decades: That a problem occurred is not important. Problems are going to happen. It is how they are handled that matters. AFAIC Qidi stood up, admitted fault and put steps in place to rectify it. Sadly, far too many people will find the very fact that everything wasn't perfect in the first place to be an unforgivable sin, but generally I find that these are the very same people who demand perfection but are utterly unwilling to provide it themselves. I have actually been watching this issue for a while now as I am on the fence about this printer. Once they come out with their version of an AMS I think I'll know which side of the fence I'll fall onto. I have my own personal reasons not to by a bambu product and I'm hearing too many mixed issues with creality. I don't want another bedslinger so anycubic kobra 3 is out.
While I'm glad Qidi did the right thing to some degree, I don't think it's fair to completely ignore what happened now that the issue has technically been fixed. This entire situation should give any buyer more caution before purchasing something from them, as it's an example of how much less quality control and testing this company has on offer before releasing a product. This is a major, possibly life-threatening problem comparable to the infamous Anet A8, and their solution is to just give the buyer the option to pick up a replacement board without even taking the more obvious step to take their printers off the market and fixing it themselves. Just because they say they'll do further testing in the future doesn't outright confirm this won't happen again, and any buyer considering this product should be aware of the risks.
Dude... their heater is held on with a bolt that is in either a little tab of plastic which i dont think it is, it looks like its glued or epoxied onto the side pannel. Mine just popped off while printing and the bed got hung up on it. everything went to shit. My bed was almost destroyed if i hadn't turned off the printer. But before i could, the print head had dragged the nozzel all over the build plate. Ruined the nozzle and plate. Now what are they gonna send a new side pannel and some glue? Or am I supposed to drill a hole in my side pannel to secure the heater properly. Like wtf? Who thought that was a good idea?
I've got one of these turning up soon (220v zone). I originally cancelled my order because it seemed there were other options but reviews for those other units were not great, especially when reading user feedback. Then there is the upcoming Bambu Large unit, but realising it would cost 2x the price of this Qidi and probably not be able to do 350-370'C made me realize the Qidi is probably still the best option, so I placed a new order.
I am glad to see they have a resolution in place. I got a QIDIQ1 Pro new from an Amazon reseller for 300$ Canadian dollars since they activated the sale coupon before they raised the sale price to MSRP. I gotta say getting my Q1 Pro that’s typically 730-800$ Canadian (depending on where you get it from and that’s before taxes and shipping) for 300$ races and shipping included was a steal. Never thought I’d need 3 active printers but here I am.
I printed a vented top riser for my X1C exactly for that heat creeping issue. Unless I'm printing ASA, ABS,.. I always have the top vented and the door cracked opened. That improved the print surfaces quality a lot.
The pic showing the 'load cell' under the back left of the bed looks to me to actually be a piezo transducer (thin brass disc with a slice of Peizo crystal bonded to it). That would make more sense as something to detect the touch of the head to the bed. A load cell requires a 24-bit A/D whose conversion times would require that the Z axis move VERY slowly so a conversion could be acquired between each microstep. With a Piezo transducer you wire it to a comparator and get an immediate signal indicating the head has actually touched the bed.
After 1000+ hours of using the Plus4, you need a fan shroud to prevent heat creep , the stl's are out there. It does a wicked job with ASA,ABS-GF, PPA. But I did notice the bed warps badly on the left hand side (closer to the heater) when using the chamber heater 100C on the bed and 60C on the heater. Over 0.9mm when running everything for 24+hours, but @100C no chamber heater its around 0.18mm-0.22mm of warp. Even though I live 110v land, I use 220V all the time. I just wish the bed and chamber heater warmed up faster...... My X1C handles 220V better and warms up fast like a champ!
Actually the heat creep was a problem with the first gen of nozzles, qidi has replaced them with creamic ones which fix the issue, you can get them from them by asking them nicely and probably sending them in a pic of your all metal nozzle, for free!
Thanks for highlighting the SSR issue! I found out about it after buying mine. The replacement was fairly easy. Aside from that I've had a few minor part failures with mine, but Qidi support took care of things pretty immediately. It's a solid printer. I mostly print PLA and did run into the heat creep issue. Bigtreetech just recently added a cryogrip plate for it on their aliexpress store so hopefully that helps.
Looking forward to their AMS/MMU or whatever you want to call it. Depending on how that works and what BBLs new one with build volume will be the factors as to which one I add to my collection. I'm a bit disappointed though that you still have to open the door for PLA. They couldn't have "cooled" the chamber with a fan?
Same review as the last one for the most part. I just bought one and did the community ssr replacement with a name brand ssr. Other then that I’ve had one clog do to heat creep in 2 days of owning. I printed the more direct fan shroud to help with this. I may do the top offset too for when I print pla. Thanks for the video!
the early printer models had a heat creep problem, which is rectified by a new nozzle type with keramic heat break inside, if you have the old nozzle you can get a replacement from qidi!
Ok people, so I have had my Plus4 for over a month. There are tons of quality control issues. It is a very capable printer that is plagued with so many issues caused by poor design. I'm currently testing out if they will send repair parts as per their warranty. Most people know of the SSR issue that they "patched" by lowering the heaters' capabilities. My heater itself was mounted to the side pannel with what looks like a superglued or epoxy covered screw. When the chamber heats up or a little pressure on the outside pannel or the heater housing is applied, it comes off. When it does, it is directly in the path of the print bed. So your print be will get hung up on the heater and continue trying to lower the bed. This totally jacks up the leveling, can destroy the housing and bend the guides. Then in my case, the print head began moving because it was still printing and it gouged deep grooves into my build plate. Now the nozzle and build plate are trash. I might have to drill a hole in the side pannel to keep the heater out of the way. The print head cables rub on the side structure because they dont have a ramp there. Their firmware update is really tricky to do if you bought it after release. You have to repair the UI and such in a very specific order and isn't well thought out. Other parts are taped to the wall or maybe a light glue... yeah... these are not things that are rare. This is stuff that is so obvious that it seems like negligence. They obviously spent a lot of money on influencers, though. I really hope they send me all the parts that were destroyed while printing normally. Otherwise, I'll have to buy even more stuff besides the SSR fix that I am still building. I also hope its not a hassle like some of the horror stories that I have heard about all over the internet. It's already odd how they word their warranty. Like its an investigation that they can refuse at will. Oh, if you do get this, save the packaging because that's a requirement for a return. Which many people have to do because the shipping companies throw the machine around. Good luck getting your package accepted back. If it's lost, you will likely be at fault. On their website their warranty says its guaranteed until you actually read the warranty. Then it makes me very worried if they will even respond much less send me the parts that were damaged by normal operation because they thought that an important bolt could be secured with such a sketchy design or because they use electrical components that are rated just at the machines capabilities and have firmware that pushes that component to max often. If they want performance claims, they should use performance parts. Not cut corners to cut costs just so that they can make a claim. I'm so disappointed. They need to make this right. Influencers should be calling them out.
i love this printer, using it about 1 month, simply the best of prosumer printers, the only thing i suggest to change is a more fast and friendly hotend replacement, other less important is that Qidi have done a good work about the aesthetics of the printer but there is still much to so that they don't look like microwave ovens :) , other: a mor fast startup sequence with options to selecto, is not possible to wait 10 minute of not necessary checks before printing, the last: better managment of the wifi printing sending... and sorry for my english :)
Re: the heat creep. You have an early first release model, and these all had stainless steel heat breaks that would suffer from heat creep. In late September Qidi released nozzles with a ceramic heat break, and this solved the heat creep issue for pretty much everyone. If you reach out to Qidi they should be able to supply you with the newer nozzle.
Still the recommendation is to print with the door open if you print PLA, that affects all chamber printers, the print bed simply can heat up the chamber too much, especially given that the qidi printer has thermal insulation in its walls, which makes it such a great printer for high temp materials!
@@werpu12 Yes. Without a ventilated lid riser, or at least without propping the lid up to leave a gap, this is still recommended. I also developed a macro that will monitor the chamber temperature and automatically adjust the speed of the exhaust fan to ventilate the chamber as required.
@@K8Stuff Probably doable with the qidi as well, the qidi has a chamber exhaust fan which is not turned on by default, given I do not print PLA anymore except for getting rid of old filament lying around, I have not looked into this option, I am just using it ti filter the ASA fumes through the carbon filter, which helps somewhat to reduce the poisnous exhaust, but not that much!
Few of us thinking in this way. Unfortunately 3D printing went to a direction where the target group are people who do not focusing on practical print but ornamental, toys, basically for joy. You can clearly see this trend how the printers built, also you can see what kind of models are downloaded most from places like Thingiverse, Printables etc. There are few idex machines are out there, or... we have to build/mod our own
Qidi use a type of glass filled nylon parts for their gantry parts and after around 1500 hours of high temp printing those parts start to disintegrate. and to replace those parts is enough to kill your soul. just a single part will be a complete disassembly of the machine. right down to taking the hotend off almost entirely. I would absolutely not touch a qidi machine for anything long term. trust me! I am currently in the process of doing just this with my x max 3. and every single time I fix something, something else breaks. even having to replace both X and Y motors because the cables connections had melted to the motors and the cable themselves were so cooked they broke off and had completely lost there colour. I have photos and videos of this nightmare.
My PLUS4 has been printing ABS for more than 2,000 hours, and the problem has not occurred. Nylon glass fiber meets this requirement. I asked qidi, and some 2023 the earliest max3 used the test parts that had too high a glass fiber content, which would result in poorer durability. They have changed it later. Maybe you got a test machine.
Not sure why you were printing PLA with the door and top in place ! All enclosed printers have to be opened to print PLA ; that's basic knowledge sorry but we will let you off since you had not delt with it before ! Lol . For me I am glad the USB is at the back and at the top as it's less likely to be hit or broken off by my partner cleaning in the print room or if a visitor goes in the room . Also so glad where the Filament holder is in stead of directly at the back and I personally like the power plug at the side as I hate having to move big printers to access the back for leads or Filament!! Finally someone is using their head in designing a machine plus a bloody thick plate for the bed ; 6 mm is a must for such a big build size ! They have learnt from there previous machines which is great to see unlike some companies !
@0Turbox your talking about shorter print time and doesn't show as many defects ; majority of the time in longer prints it will cause heat creep and affect your overall print. The fact he had much better prints with the door open and top removed proves that !
It's nice that they actually address issues and take responsibility. They have done the same for the previous version. But they have repeatedly released not properly tested machines and left it to the youtubers to find the issues, which is not the way to go IMO. Basically, my impression of Qidi, so far, is that you shouldn't buy their latest products and instead wait a couple of months or a year.
yes thats the way with all their models so far, never buy day zero, let the devices be debugged out, but they at least care about their customer base, if something serious like the ssr problem creeps up they will send you the replacement fix parts on request. I replaced my SSR with a brand SSR from Panasonic and a heat sink anyway, even if I am not affected on 220v, I do not trust their ssr, as simple as that!
Seems like a really nice printer for ABS/ASA like you said. Since it's Klipper based, something like the Box Turtle would be a good option if the QIDI Box doesn't materialize.
@@ModBotArmymy main concern With automated filament swapping is that I have a lot of insertion resistance right Where the PTFE tube meets the printhead. I usually have to manually adjust the angle of the PTFE tube to get filament to properly insert. This could be caused by the relatively sharp angle of the tube and potentially be solved by one of the many shim projects that raise the glass top a little bit, thus putting less strain on the tube - I have not tried any yet. Have you noticed anything like that?
@@MarkusRambossekI agree, manually inserting filament, it sometimes just refuce to go deep enough. But if printhead moved toward door, filament slide in without any problem. So, something moves in inside there and block filament. But because its known problem and solution is as simple as moving printhead I think using AMS/MMU will not be problem.
Conclusion from this video (and my q1 pro experience): Qidi is the prebuilt manufacturer for people who print with ABS and more demanding materials. The Plus 4 seems like a direct competition to the x1c, whilst beating it in every single metric. I love my q1 pro but it has some vfa, I would like to see a closer look at how the plus 4 compares to that.
The Plus4 also produces VFA... the prints are relatively identical in this area, VFA is generally a sideffect of those kind of printers, you can reduce them significantly but never entirely can get rid of them. But yes the printer is really a nice high temp material printer, add the price and that you have a chamber heater, which is a game changer for asa and other high temp materials and you have an overall nice printer. Given that it runs on a slightly modified version of clipper and being cloudless is the icing on the top! I looked into Bambus printers, and while they overall seem to be pretty good, the enforced cloud while stealing from opensource left and right and not giving back was really off putting for me! Also reports are that when a problem arises it takes ages for the support to respond and face it 3d printers always develop issues along the road and thats when support becomes vital! So my choice was Qidi although I knew upfront that it was not as perfect as the bambu, but perfect enough for me!
Questions: 1. Does the Chamber have even and accurate temps? (saw a review showing the chamber was temp was not accurate and not evenly heated) 2. If you do a max size print once the bed drops to same height as the Blower, does it interfere with prints and chamber temp? 3. Are all new Qidi Plus 4's expected to have the SSR updated on delivery?
Dan may be using an older version of the firmware. The Plus4 does indeed support 370C on the nozzle. The printer.cfg file in fact sets an absolute maximum of 380C before Klipper will throw an error.
Regarding the SSR, have you had any issues further since replacement? Thank you for highlighting the specs to show temps in range, as some other reviewers show doing a different SSR type upgrade due to the temps still reached. I priced out the parts and tools and would add about another $150-ish to the overall purchase price. Option, but not sure if doing is necessary unless I am printing a lot that requires continuous use of the heater. With the board design and cover, would there be any benefit to having a fan to blow on it to circulate the airflow over the board better? Thinking if that would help/work it would be an easy enough and cost efficient fix.
No issues since the replacement. I’ll likely pop the cover in 30 days to verify again. You shouldn’t have to swap to an aftermarket ssr. I was also told the ones people are using will need a large heatsink as they are meant to be on a din rail to help remove heat. I would think adding a fan and additional venting wouldn’t hurt.
Plus 4 is good with some great prints. The mechanical issues that came with the first batch - not so much. SSR, mobo, and the chamber heater itself had to be replaced.
@@ModBotArmy Chamber heater just quit working, no rhyme or reason. There are 2 generations of them. The first batch had a wider opening for the fan. The 2nd gen have a smaller hole and that one is problematic. Looks like you have the 1st gen. The mobo - no rhyme or reason.
When I try to print with PETG filament, I always encounter problems at some point. Sometimes the print doesn’t adhere properly, and other times the filament quality is poor. I use a nozzle temperature of 250°C and a bed temperature of 80°C. However, no print can be completed successfully because the filament quality deteriorates during printing, and the print fails. What can I do to resolve this issue? Also how can I check if the SSR is defective or not? For now, I don’t dare to make any configurations, like removing or changing anything. I was having version 1.1, and I updated it to version 1.6. I bought the print 2 weeks ago from canada from Amazon? Additionally, I’m using this printer for creating parts for UAV drones. It’s important for me to achieve high-quality prints, especially for structural components. Any advice on optimizing the printer settings or resolving these issues would be greatly appreciated.
a) Filament quality, put the filament in a dry box or a filament dryer, b) wash the print plate properly with soap and water, if you have printed before with pla then there are residues which prevent the petg to stick!
Good they finally fixed it, but how quiet they've been and how many times they've had bandaids arent great. It seems attractive now but really, QIDI needs to step up how their first impressions go. Literally holding the printer back 2 months longer than they intend to launch for polish and end user testing for future releases could help their brand image so much.
Yes that cost them a ton of customers, imaging having brought out the printer without the by now fixes issues, the printer would give Bambu a run for its money! Qidi really seriously needs to address this initial quality problem with their printers!
Does Anyone have a clue why I'm seeing so many Bambo X1C for sale on places like Offer Up... Is there something wrong with them or people are waiting for a new release?
I may be intellectually stunted, but I believe many of these printers(this one) aren't supported in cura. Is that accurate? I could use orca, but I'm hesitant. Thoughts/input?
Not super relevant for this video but I recently bit off on a Q1 Pro for $400.00. Though it has its quirks, and it does, it's leaps and bounds from my Sovol SV01 bed slinger. I'm over a month in of prints and have not had one failure yet. I just wish I were smart enough to fix the startup sequence it has with purging filament, etc.
It doesn't detect clogs. I've had to fix about 20 clogs while dialing in printer flow rates and the printer never caught a single one. (clogs were my fault as I was pushing the printer too hard. I'd love a working clog detector)
It also won't resume print on power loss. Yes it will have the prompt to do so, but as soon as you tell it to continue it will attempt to re-home with no option to prevent this. You know, kind of a big frigging problem if there's a partial print on the build plate. It will literally ram the hot end right into the print and just grind until you yank the power cord. If you do long prints, a UPS is mandatory as qidi software is a fuckin lie.
Hello I had a question regarding the plus 4. Not sure how to ask it. But I finally hooked up my printer to my laptop. And printed from the laptop for the first time and was looking at the camera and noticed a lot of shavings and thought I might have added to much glue. So I went to check and the printer was trying to kill its self lol. But really it was carving into the build plate in the areas it was supposed to lay the plastic. I printed something I already printed and came out fairly similar. Then tried the file I sent and printed okay. So I’m not sure what caused it to do that. I’m concerned that I messed up something but not sure how to test it. It took a big gouge out of the build plate so it definitely went through some torture any thoughts?
@@m3kid hmm since it uses a sensor to home it sounds like to may have either triggered too late or false triggered. The biggest thing other than the plate you may have damaged is the nozzle. However it’s a hardened one and it’s happened to me before on other printers. If it’s working again I would use the damaged side of the plate for a few prints and see if the error comes back. If not I would say a fluke. If it does something is faulty likely with the inductive probe and I would contact support.
@ sweet thanks so u don’t think anything would break other then the nozzle was worried the belts or something else might have got damaged? It is printing a little more stringy. But I’ve been having that problems a few times? Is there a file I should use that I can print that would let me know I have a problem? Just worried I damaged something and not sure how to trouble shoot it.
@ hmm, if your printing pla make sure the door is open. That caused stringing issues when it wasn’t. If it persists then seeing if you can get a new nozzle may be worth it. I don’t think anything else really would be impacted. Upward pressure would mostly be at the contact point. The end with rods and lead screws is fine. On the toolhead unless something cracked (highly unlikely) nozzle would be my only real concern if any.
4:15 The thermistors sense heat. They don't generate heat. If they are the hottest component you can see it means they likely have a low thermal resistance connection to part of a component that is getting warm that you can't see. It's not possible for the thermistors to be the hottest component.
Maybe they aren’t thermistors then 🤔. The part number seemed to pull it unless the wording was just wrong. I also found it weird to have two so close it it was a thermistor. Unless it’s just for redundancy.
NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistors are commonly used in power supplies as an inrush-current suppression strategy. When power is first applied, the NTC is cold and its relatively high resistamce limits the current to the load. Then over subsequent seconds, the thermistor heats up (self heating), its resistance decreases, permitting the full current to flow to the load. This strategy is particularly useful if the load is likely to draw an initial high current if not limited in some way. So yes, in this case, they do generate heat. In other scenarios Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) thermistors serve as self-healing fuses: in that case the normal load current is small enough to not heat the thermistors, but if a fault occurs then the thermistors heat up, and their resistance increases, limiting the current. Remove the fault and the thermistors return to normal.
It's crazy to see what bambulab, made with the 3d printer market. 2 Years ago they dropped , and today "some companies" try to catch up, just imagine how the new printer will be like.....
Czekam na H2D i wiem, że ona wyznaczy nowe standardy na przyszłe dwa lata. Bambu to mistrzowie świata! Mam 4 drukarki, ale Bambu to po prostu niesamowita maszyna. Ona po prostu DRUKUJE!
yeah if bambu had a printer with this size and an active chamber heater, besides that it forces you into their cloud! It is basically their way or the highway!
Back top of the printer is absolutely the best location for the USB. Easy enough to get to, while out of the way enough not to get broken. Keep placing it there QIDI.
Fair point, fair point
Why use usb when there is wifi and lan?
@@juhajuntunen7866 Because sometime, there is no wifi or lan?
@@patricklebel1141 Well, that would be quite rare situation today.
I have been printing a large auto part which has a 15 hour print time in ABS-GF for production units and the Plus 4 has not made one mistake in the 300+ hours it’s been printing them. Extremely happy with this printer for ABS. For the price point the high temp functionality and print quality it’s second to none at the moment and these would make an excellent farm printer.
Printing ASA and TPU with it, extremely happy as well! I ditched PLA and PetG in Favor of those two materials, they are extremely easy to print on the machine!
@@werpu12 How long do you dry the TPU before printing with it?
@@0Turbox good question, I did my first print I think without drying but the subsequent print I did with 4-6 hours pf pre drying because the hygrometer showed me more thasn 20% I did another round of drying during another print and from then onwards no drying anymore because I was at the minimum the hygrometer could show!
But neither of the prints had problems or failed!
The Plus 4 is my first 3d printer and I'm impressed with what it does. I ordered one and started my 3d printing adventures. However, when I learned that I was going to have to replace the solid state relay, I was disappointed. Being a disable Viet Nam vet, it proved challenging changing the board. But it's done. I have the skill set, just not the motor skills any more. I love the quality of the prints. I've been doing stuff in PLA and some PETg. I wanted to do a couple of pieces in ABS. That was when I discovered the overheated SSR board. I only wish that Qidi had pulled the machines still sitting in the warehouse and done the replacement themselves.
I have had the qidi now for 4 weeks, I am very happy with it, and yes I agree it shines on high temps, printing ASA is as easy as PLA on this machine. Thanks for the review!
For PLA, could you not just set the chamber and bed temps down by 20-30'C instead of opening the door?
@@gerarderloper with pei I wouldn’t recommend it. You’ll have adhesion issues. A different bed could solve it but someone mentioned a newer heat break that is bimetal fixing the issue.
@@gerarderloper The problem with PLA is the insulated heat chamber, it might work with the bed temperature (not sure), but don´t ask me how well the adhesion works on 30c... it is really nice 50-60c pla sticks like being nailed down once it cools down it is released from the plate automatically (same with ASA but different temperature 100c). Given I moved on from PLA keeping the door opened for PLA is a non issue for me, the printer really shines at high temp materials! ASA has become defacto my filament of choice now! (But i also print in a separate area so the poisnous fumes of ASA printing are a non issue for me)
@@werpu12 I printed the benchie with closed doors and had no problems with it.
Always appreciate your thorough and well flowing videos. Glad QIDI appreciated your feedback and solved the problems addressed. Great video as always.
@@B1GJano thanks man I really appreciate it. Yeah they took the feedback well which is something I wish more companies would do. Happy New Years!
Re: the manual bad leveling. This is just an optional tramming step that is there should you be having any issues with physical bed flatness. Qidi gives you the option to achieve a better state of flatness while most other manufacturers in this space do not.
There are also community provided macros that allow you to not even need to use the paper and instead a window will pop up with how much to turn the screws to achieve a fully level tram.
Of course, this is all optional, and the user can just rely purely on the bed meshing to compensate for any levelling issues.
Basically it's a nice to have option for those who want to achieve a better state of flatness than out of the box.
Could you link to those community tools?
During the initial setup of my Plus4 I thought I was supposed to click the option that has you level the bed manually with the screws. It wasn't until later I found out you're really only supposed to do that if there is a problem, and that the bed should be perfect upon arrival. Either way, I would like to confirm I have a perfectly flat bed after every time I move the machine.
@Renwark TH-cam doesn't allow the posting of links. I recommend going to the Qidi website and finding the invite to the official Qidi Community dish cord server (misspelling intentional to get around auto mod) and join us all there
Agreed. As someone who makes functional parts that often have to interface with other components/materials, mesh bed levelling isn't as useful as physical adjustment. Great to have both.
Run the screws_tilt_calculate macro
New to the channel due to referal from Keo Print channel. Nice coverage and handling of the SSR recall regarding this printer. Okay time to check out the rest of your catalog.
This is a perfect example of something I have been saying for decades: That a problem occurred is not important. Problems are going to happen. It is how they are handled that matters.
AFAIC Qidi stood up, admitted fault and put steps in place to rectify it. Sadly, far too many people will find the very fact that everything wasn't perfect in the first place to be an unforgivable sin, but generally I find that these are the very same people who demand perfection but are utterly unwilling to provide it themselves. I have actually been watching this issue for a while now as I am on the fence about this printer. Once they come out with their version of an AMS I think I'll know which side of the fence I'll fall onto. I have my own personal reasons not to by a bambu product and I'm hearing too many mixed issues with creality. I don't want another bedslinger so anycubic kobra 3 is out.
While I'm glad Qidi did the right thing to some degree, I don't think it's fair to completely ignore what happened now that the issue has technically been fixed. This entire situation should give any buyer more caution before purchasing something from them, as it's an example of how much less quality control and testing this company has on offer before releasing a product. This is a major, possibly life-threatening problem comparable to the infamous Anet A8, and their solution is to just give the buyer the option to pick up a replacement board without even taking the more obvious step to take their printers off the market and fixing it themselves. Just because they say they'll do further testing in the future doesn't outright confirm this won't happen again, and any buyer considering this product should be aware of the risks.
I've had issues with my A1, nothing is perfect. Eventually you find faults.
A temperatur regulation is neither new nor difficult technology and all components are off the shelf. A mistake there is not acceptable
Dude... their heater is held on with a bolt that is in either a little tab of plastic which i dont think it is, it looks like its glued or epoxied onto the side pannel. Mine just popped off while printing and the bed got hung up on it. everything went to shit. My bed was almost destroyed if i hadn't turned off the printer. But before i could, the print head had dragged the nozzel all over the build plate. Ruined the nozzle and plate. Now what are they gonna send a new side pannel and some glue? Or am I supposed to drill a hole in my side pannel to secure the heater properly. Like wtf? Who thought that was a good idea?
Nah, BOTH are important.
I can't get over it looking like a Cybertruck
lol it totally does.
I think its the other way around. Cyber truck looks like the appliance
Leant this works. I like Elons crappy vanity project
That's not very nice, this printer doesn't look like a complete 🍑 cannon..
No, it's better, it looks like a DeLorean! The car the Cybertruck was poorly imitating. 🤭
I've got one of these turning up soon (220v zone).
I originally cancelled my order because it seemed there were other options but reviews for those other units were not great, especially when reading user feedback.
Then there is the upcoming Bambu Large unit, but realising it would cost 2x the price of this Qidi and probably not be able to do 350-370'C made me realize the Qidi is probably still the best option, so I placed a new order.
I am glad to see they have a resolution in place.
I got a QIDIQ1 Pro new from an Amazon reseller for 300$ Canadian dollars since they activated the sale coupon before they raised the sale price to MSRP. I gotta say getting my Q1 Pro that’s typically 730-800$ Canadian (depending on where you get it from and that’s before taxes and shipping) for 300$ races and shipping included was a steal. Never thought I’d need 3 active printers but here I am.
Looks like they did exactly what you requested, as Orca has a profile for the Plus4 now.
Qidi has always worked with Orca! I also prefer using Orca! It just takes a little time to update the configuration files for the new machine!
I printed a vented top riser for my X1C exactly for that heat creeping issue. Unless I'm printing ASA, ABS,.. I always have the top vented and the door cracked opened. That improved the print surfaces quality a lot.
Hopefully they are able take the learnings from this and improve their design, sourcing and testing processes. It seems like a fairly solid printer.
The pic showing the 'load cell' under the back left of the bed looks to me to actually be a piezo transducer (thin brass disc with a slice of Peizo crystal bonded to it). That would make more sense as something to detect the touch of the head to the bed. A load cell requires a 24-bit A/D whose conversion times would require that the Z axis move VERY slowly so a conversion could be acquired between each microstep. With a Piezo transducer you wire it to a comparator and get an immediate signal indicating the head has actually touched the bed.
Probably my next printer. Does enough things over and above the average printer to make it worth it. Good customer support etc.
Good video, I love my Plus 4 :)
After 1000+ hours of using the Plus4, you need a fan shroud to prevent heat creep , the stl's are out there. It does a wicked job with ASA,ABS-GF, PPA. But I did notice the bed warps badly on the left hand side (closer to the heater) when using the chamber heater 100C on the bed and 60C on the heater. Over 0.9mm when running everything for 24+hours, but @100C no chamber heater its around 0.18mm-0.22mm of warp. Even though I live 110v land, I use 220V all the time. I just wish the bed and chamber heater warmed up faster...... My X1C handles 220V better and warms up fast like a champ!
Actually the heat creep was a problem with the first gen of nozzles, qidi has replaced them with creamic ones which fix the issue, you can get them from them by asking them nicely and probably sending them in a pic of your all metal nozzle, for free!
Are you planning on doing a rat rig vcore 4 review?
not a single full review out there. and absolute silence about the idex upgrade
Thanks for highlighting the SSR issue! I found out about it after buying mine. The replacement was fairly easy. Aside from that I've had a few minor part failures with mine, but Qidi support took care of things pretty immediately. It's a solid printer. I mostly print PLA and did run into the heat creep issue. Bigtreetech just recently added a cryogrip plate for it on their aliexpress store so hopefully that helps.
Looking forward to their AMS/MMU or whatever you want to call it. Depending on how that works and what BBLs new one with build volume will be the factors as to which one I add to my collection. I'm a bit disappointed though that you still have to open the door for PLA. They couldn't have "cooled" the chamber with a fan?
I would totally buy one but i'm happy with my X-MAX 3 😁. But the auto Z offset and general layout seem to be a bit more intuitive on the Plus 4.
Well if I ever come across a need to print those materials, this seems like it would be a good option
Same review as the last one for the most part. I just bought one and did the community ssr replacement with a name brand ssr. Other then that I’ve had one clog do to heat creep in 2 days of owning. I printed the more direct fan shroud to help with this. I may do the top offset too for when I print pla. Thanks for the video!
the early printer models had a heat creep problem, which is rectified by a new nozzle type with keramic heat break inside, if you have the old nozzle you can get a replacement from qidi!
Ok people, so I have had my Plus4 for over a month. There are tons of quality control issues. It is a very capable printer that is plagued with so many issues caused by poor design. I'm currently testing out if they will send repair parts as per their warranty. Most people know of the SSR issue that they "patched" by lowering the heaters' capabilities. My heater itself was mounted to the side pannel with what looks like a superglued or epoxy covered screw. When the chamber heats up or a little pressure on the outside pannel or the heater housing is applied, it comes off. When it does, it is directly in the path of the print bed. So your print be will get hung up on the heater and continue trying to lower the bed. This totally jacks up the leveling, can destroy the housing and bend the guides. Then in my case, the print head began moving because it was still printing and it gouged deep grooves into my build plate. Now the nozzle and build plate are trash. I might have to drill a hole in the side pannel to keep the heater out of the way. The print head cables rub on the side structure because they dont have a ramp there. Their firmware update is really tricky to do if you bought it after release. You have to repair the UI and such in a very specific order and isn't well thought out. Other parts are taped to the wall or maybe a light glue... yeah... these are not things that are rare. This is stuff that is so obvious that it seems like negligence. They obviously spent a lot of money on influencers, though. I really hope they send me all the parts that were destroyed while printing normally. Otherwise, I'll have to buy even more stuff besides the SSR fix that I am still building. I also hope its not a hassle like some of the horror stories that I have heard about all over the internet. It's already odd how they word their warranty. Like its an investigation that they can refuse at will. Oh, if you do get this, save the packaging because that's a requirement for a return. Which many people have to do because the shipping companies throw the machine around. Good luck getting your package accepted back. If it's lost, you will likely be at fault. On their website their warranty says its guaranteed until you actually read the warranty. Then it makes me very worried if they will even respond much less send me the parts that were damaged by normal operation because they thought that an important bolt could be secured with such a sketchy design or because they use electrical components that are rated just at the machines capabilities and have firmware that pushes that component to max often. If they want performance claims, they should use performance parts. Not cut corners to cut costs just so that they can make a claim. I'm so disappointed. They need to make this right. Influencers should be calling them out.
i love this printer, using it about 1 month, simply the best of prosumer printers, the only thing i suggest to change is a more fast and friendly hotend replacement, other less important is that Qidi have done a good work about the aesthetics of the printer but there is still much to so that they don't look like microwave ovens :) , other: a mor fast startup sequence with options to selecto, is not possible to wait 10 minute of not necessary checks before printing, the last: better managment of the wifi printing sending... and sorry for my english :)
Would be nice to see it printing PPA-CF and PPS_CF
Re: the heat creep. You have an early first release model, and these all had stainless steel heat breaks that would suffer from heat creep. In late September Qidi released nozzles with a ceramic heat break, and this solved the heat creep issue for pretty much everyone. If you reach out to Qidi they should be able to supply you with the newer nozzle.
Still the recommendation is to print with the door open if you print PLA, that affects all chamber printers, the print bed simply can heat up the chamber too much, especially given that the qidi printer has thermal insulation in its walls, which makes it such a great printer for high temp materials!
@@werpu12 Yes. Without a ventilated lid riser, or at least without propping the lid up to leave a gap, this is still recommended. I also developed a macro that will monitor the chamber temperature and automatically adjust the speed of the exhaust fan to ventilate the chamber as required.
@@werpu12 Not all, per-se. The Creality K2 Plus has fans specifically able to keep temps down. No need to open the door or top. No heat creep.
@@K8Stuff Probably doable with the qidi as well, the qidi has a chamber exhaust fan which is not turned on by default, given I do not print PLA anymore except for getting rid of old filament lying around, I have not looked into this option, I am just using it ti filter the ASA fumes through the carbon filter, which helps somewhat to reduce the poisnous exhaust, but not that much!
I'd like to see idex or dual hotend on these then it's a clear win i don't need the color changer.
Few of us thinking in this way. Unfortunately 3D printing went to a direction where the target group are people who do not focusing on practical print but ornamental, toys, basically for joy. You can clearly see this trend how the printers built, also you can see what kind of models are downloaded most from places like Thingiverse, Printables etc. There are few idex machines are out there, or... we have to build/mod our own
Qidi use a type of glass filled nylon parts for their gantry parts and after around 1500 hours of high temp printing those parts start to disintegrate. and to replace those parts is enough to kill your soul. just a single part will be a complete disassembly of the machine. right down to taking the hotend off almost entirely. I would absolutely not touch a qidi machine for anything long term. trust me! I am currently in the process of doing just this with my x max 3. and every single time I fix something, something else breaks. even having to replace both X and Y motors because the cables connections had melted to the motors and the cable themselves were so cooked they broke off and had completely lost there colour. I have photos and videos of this nightmare.
would you please share it on your youtube channel?
@adriannasyraf3534 I'll do a video. To the best of my ability
@@adriannasyraf3534 th-cam.com/video/7zv7igaNVCk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Gngy3NjPVbX9usb2
My PLUS4 has been printing ABS for more than 2,000 hours, and the problem has not occurred. Nylon glass fiber meets this requirement. I asked qidi, and some 2023 the earliest max3 used the test parts that had too high a glass fiber content, which would result in poorer durability. They have changed it later. Maybe you got a test machine.
@@mohistschool1003 I certainly did.
Not sure why you were printing PLA with the door and top in place ! All enclosed printers have to be opened to print PLA ; that's basic knowledge sorry but we will let you off since you had not delt with it before ! Lol . For me I am glad the USB is at the back and at the top as it's less likely to be hit or broken off by my partner cleaning in the print room or if a visitor goes in the room . Also so glad where the Filament holder is in stead of directly at the back and I personally like the power plug at the side as I hate having to move big printers to access the back for leads or Filament!! Finally someone is using their head in designing a machine plus a bloody thick plate for the bed ; 6 mm is a must for such a big build size ! They have learnt from there previous machines which is great to see unlike some companies !
I did the Benchie with everything closed and had no problems.
@0Turbox your talking about shorter print time and doesn't show as many defects ; majority of the time in longer prints it will cause heat creep and affect your overall print. The fact he had much better prints with the door open and top removed proves that !
Are you currently aware of the chamber heating fan choking problem?
Would love to have a Qidi Plus 4 to replace my inoperable Creality printers
Can you link your Thermo Cam?? I´ve seen some going around but normally out of our budget.
It's nice that they actually address issues and take responsibility. They have done the same for the previous version. But they have repeatedly released not properly tested machines and left it to the youtubers to find the issues, which is not the way to go IMO. Basically, my impression of Qidi, so far, is that you shouldn't buy their latest products and instead wait a couple of months or a year.
yes thats the way with all their models so far, never buy day zero, let the devices be debugged out, but they at least care about their customer base, if something serious like the ssr problem creeps up they will send you the replacement fix parts on request. I replaced my SSR with a brand SSR from Panasonic and a heat sink anyway, even if I am not affected on 220v, I do not trust their ssr, as simple as that!
Seems like a really nice printer for ABS/ASA like you said. Since it's Klipper based, something like the Box Turtle would be a good option if the QIDI Box doesn't materialize.
I was thinking the same thing. I will be building one and it’s pretty much set up for it if the qidi box doesn’t deliver.
@@ModBotArmymy main concern With automated filament swapping is that I have a lot of insertion resistance right Where the PTFE tube meets the printhead. I usually have to manually adjust the angle of the PTFE tube to get filament to properly insert. This could be caused by the relatively sharp angle of the tube and potentially be solved by one of the many shim projects that raise the glass top a little bit, thus putting less strain on the tube - I have not tried any yet. Have you noticed anything like that?
@@MarkusRambossekI agree, manually inserting filament, it sometimes just refuce to go deep enough. But if printhead moved toward door, filament slide in without any problem. So, something moves in inside there and block filament. But because its known problem and solution is as simple as moving printhead I think using AMS/MMU will not be problem.
Conclusion from this video (and my q1 pro experience): Qidi is the prebuilt manufacturer for people who print with ABS and more demanding materials. The Plus 4 seems like a direct competition to the x1c, whilst beating it in every single metric. I love my q1 pro but it has some vfa, I would like to see a closer look at how the plus 4 compares to that.
The Plus4 also produces VFA... the prints are relatively identical in this area, VFA is generally a sideffect of those kind of printers, you can reduce them significantly but never entirely can get rid of them. But yes the printer is really a nice high temp material printer, add the price and that you have a chamber heater, which is a game changer for asa and other high temp materials and you have an overall nice printer. Given that it runs on a slightly modified version of clipper and being cloudless is the icing on the top!
I looked into Bambus printers, and while they overall seem to be pretty good, the enforced cloud while stealing from opensource left and right and not giving back was really off putting for me!
Also reports are that when a problem arises it takes ages for the support to respond and face it 3d printers always develop issues along the road and thats when support becomes vital!
So my choice was Qidi although I knew upfront that it was not as perfect as the bambu, but perfect enough for me!
Questions: 1. Does the Chamber have even and accurate temps? (saw a review showing the chamber was temp was not accurate and not evenly heated) 2. If you do a max size print once the bed drops to same height as the Blower, does it interfere with prints and chamber temp? 3. Are all new Qidi Plus 4's expected to have the SSR updated on delivery?
If I pay for 370°C, I want 370°C!
Dan may be using an older version of the firmware. The Plus4 does indeed support 370C on the nozzle. The printer.cfg file in fact sets an absolute maximum of 380C before Klipper will throw an error.
Regarding the SSR, have you had any issues further since replacement? Thank you for highlighting the specs to show temps in range, as some other reviewers show doing a different SSR type upgrade due to the temps still reached. I priced out the parts and tools and would add about another $150-ish to the overall purchase price. Option, but not sure if doing is necessary unless I am printing a lot that requires continuous use of the heater.
With the board design and cover, would there be any benefit to having a fan to blow on it to circulate the airflow over the board better? Thinking if that would help/work it would be an easy enough and cost efficient fix.
No issues since the replacement. I’ll likely pop the cover in 30 days to verify again. You shouldn’t have to swap to an aftermarket ssr. I was also told the ones people are using will need a large heatsink as they are meant to be on a din rail to help remove heat. I would think adding a fan and additional venting wouldn’t hurt.
I'm not seeing your link to the Qidi release about the SSR.
@@EdwardDowner added now here it is x.com/qidi_3dprinter/status/1855902130210845156?s=46&t=fcMFzDcKmAjv60hqbuiBvg
Plus 4 is good with some great prints. The mechanical issues that came with the first batch - not so much.
SSR, mobo, and the chamber heater itself had to be replaced.
@@kevinjanuud92 what mobo and chamber issues? Mine is definitely first batch.
@@ModBotArmy Chamber heater just quit working, no rhyme or reason. There are 2 generations of them. The first batch had a wider opening for the fan. The 2nd gen have a smaller hole and that one is problematic. Looks like you have the 1st gen.
The mobo - no rhyme or reason.
When I try to print with PETG filament, I always encounter problems at some point. Sometimes the print doesn’t adhere properly, and other times the filament quality is poor. I use a nozzle temperature of 250°C and a bed temperature of 80°C. However, no print can be completed successfully because the filament quality deteriorates during printing, and the print fails. What can I do to resolve this issue?
Also how can I check if the SSR is defective or not? For now, I don’t dare to make any configurations, like removing or changing anything. I was having version 1.1, and I updated it to version 1.6. I bought the print 2 weeks ago from canada from Amazon?
Additionally, I’m using this printer for creating parts for UAV drones. It’s important for me to achieve high-quality prints, especially for structural components. Any advice on optimizing the printer settings or resolving these issues would be greatly appreciated.
a) Filament quality, put the filament in a dry box or a filament dryer, b) wash the print plate properly with soap and water, if you have printed before with pla then there are residues which prevent the petg to stick!
Is the nozzle proprietary or is it a standard length/thread that you can swap out with a Bondtech nozzle instead?
Good they finally fixed it, but how quiet they've been and how many times they've had bandaids arent great.
It seems attractive now but really, QIDI needs to step up how their first impressions go. Literally holding the printer back 2 months longer than they intend to launch for polish and end user testing for future releases could help their brand image so much.
Yes that cost them a ton of customers, imaging having brought out the printer without the by now fixes issues, the printer would give Bambu a run for its money!
Qidi really seriously needs to address this initial quality problem with their printers!
Amazon link doesn’t work
Does Anyone have a clue why I'm seeing so many Bambo X1C for sale on places like Offer Up... Is there something wrong with them or people are waiting for a new release?
I love that you are Building a Doron Velta. I'm 100% sure thats going to be my first Voron build.
How would you say print quality compares to the P1S pr X1C?
I may be intellectually stunted, but I believe many of these printers(this one) aren't supported in cura. Is that accurate? I could use orca, but I'm hesitant.
Thoughts/input?
Don't be, it's way better.
i switched over from cura to orca, there is a reason why orca has become the defacto standard...
It is better and easier!
Not super relevant for this video but I recently bit off on a Q1 Pro for $400.00. Though it has its quirks, and it does, it's leaps and bounds from my Sovol SV01 bed slinger. I'm over a month in of prints and have not had one failure yet. I just wish I were smart enough to fix the startup sequence it has with purging filament, etc.
It doesn't detect clogs. I've had to fix about 20 clogs while dialing in printer flow rates and the printer never caught a single one. (clogs were my fault as I was pushing the printer too hard. I'd love a working clog detector)
That’s odd, mine clearly detected the filament wasn’t feeding/had jammed.
Mine had one clog, and the software did not detect it. Just a grinding sound from the extruder.
It also won't resume print on power loss. Yes it will have the prompt to do so, but as soon as you tell it to continue it will attempt to re-home with no option to prevent this. You know, kind of a big frigging problem if there's a partial print on the build plate. It will literally ram the hot end right into the print and just grind until you yank the power cord. If you do long prints, a UPS is mandatory as qidi software is a fuckin lie.
Hello I had a question regarding the plus 4.
Not sure how to ask it.
But I finally hooked up my printer to my laptop. And printed from the laptop for the first time and was looking at the camera and noticed a lot of shavings and thought I might have added to much glue. So I went to check and the printer was trying to kill its self lol. But really it was carving into the build plate in the areas it was supposed to lay the plastic. I printed something I already printed and came out fairly similar. Then tried the file I sent and printed okay. So I’m not sure what caused it to do that. I’m concerned that I messed up something but not sure how to test it. It took a big gouge out of the build plate so it definitely went through some torture any thoughts?
@@m3kid hmm since it uses a sensor to home it sounds like to may have either triggered too late or false triggered. The biggest thing other than the plate you may have damaged is the nozzle. However it’s a hardened one and it’s happened to me before on other printers. If it’s working again I would use the damaged side of the plate for a few prints and see if the error comes back. If not I would say a fluke. If it does something is faulty likely with the inductive probe and I would contact support.
@ sweet thanks so u don’t think anything would break other then the nozzle was worried the belts or something else might have got damaged? It is printing a little more stringy. But I’ve been having that problems a few times? Is there a file I should use that I can print that would let me know I have a problem? Just worried I damaged something and not sure how to trouble shoot it.
@ hmm, if your printing pla make sure the door is open. That caused stringing issues when it wasn’t. If it persists then seeing if you can get a new nozzle may be worth it. I don’t think anything else really would be impacted. Upward pressure would mostly be at the contact point. The end with rods and lead screws is fine. On the toolhead unless something cracked (highly unlikely) nozzle would be my only real concern if any.
@ sweet that makes me feel better. And thanks for the quick and informative responses. I’m printing Petg should I still open the door?!
@@ModBotArmy o yea im getting a line horizontally on circular print. Plus it’s really rough where the support connects. Any thoughts?
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
👍👍👍👍👍
4:15 The thermistors sense heat. They don't generate heat. If they are the hottest component you can see it means they likely have a low thermal resistance connection to part of a component that is getting warm that you can't see. It's not possible for the thermistors to be the hottest component.
Maybe they aren’t thermistors then 🤔. The part number seemed to pull it unless the wording was just wrong. I also found it weird to have two so close it it was a thermistor. Unless it’s just for redundancy.
NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistors are commonly used in power supplies as an inrush-current suppression strategy. When power is first applied, the NTC is cold and its relatively high resistamce limits the current to the load. Then over subsequent seconds, the thermistor heats up (self heating), its resistance decreases, permitting the full current to flow to the load. This strategy is particularly useful if the load is likely to draw an initial high current if not limited in some way. So yes, in this case, they do generate heat.
In other scenarios Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) thermistors serve as self-healing fuses: in that case the normal load current is small enough to not heat the thermistors, but if a fault occurs then the thermistors heat up, and their resistance increases, limiting the current. Remove the fault and the thermistors return to normal.
nothing but problems with the xmax 3 i got recently, returned it
Excellent job....
Thank you 😊
in my opinion, if someone is not able to replace this module themselves, they should never start using 3d printers 🤦
They shouldn’t have to do that is the company would just make a printer that works correctly.
It's crazy to see what bambulab, made with the 3d printer market. 2 Years ago they dropped , and today "some companies" try to catch up, just imagine how the new printer will be like.....
Czekam na H2D i wiem, że ona wyznaczy nowe standardy na przyszłe dwa lata.
Bambu to mistrzowie świata!
Mam 4 drukarki, ale Bambu to po prostu niesamowita maszyna.
Ona po prostu DRUKUJE!
I think any enclosed printer PLA is out of the question, this is high temp printer only!
Ive been printing pla+ for a week straight with zero issue. Print a top lid standoff to allow heat to vent and its perfectly fine.
HELLLLO first here!
Bambu labs really highlighted how trash most printers actually are. It's so infuriating!
yeah if bambu had a printer with this size and an active chamber heater, besides that it forces you into their cloud!
It is basically their way or the highway!
What Qidi highlighted here with this printer show how x1c is unaffordable.
@@werpu12the bambu X1E has all if that other than the larger bed. We got on where i work and its truly an awesome printer best ive ever used.
280mm Z is just dumb!