proper vehicle selection, and managing expectations. you can't physically fit 10 15's in a hyundai accent, so you can't expect the final system to crush 150 db. there's a reason why the most common vehicles for SPL are tahoes and suburbans and the like and usually you'll find SQ builds in cars that are meant to be driven for hours. not to say there isn't crossover between the two, but think about how you're going to use the vehicle. is it a daily driver? will it be your grocery getter? can't make a walmart trip in your hyundai and get groceries if the entire thing from the b pillar back is now a sub enclosure. also not just beefing up electrical to compensate for the stereo, but the rest of the vehicle as well. all the equipment will be heavier, which means more suspension to maintain OE performance. more weight also takes longer to stop, so a big brake kit might be needed. tires are also rated to specific capabilities, are yours enough to literally hold the weight of the car, and now the added weight of the stereo, and perform adequately during braking? EXO addresses alot of this in his new build and even soundman has commented on it. depending on the desired end result, there's a certain recipe to get there, and it's not all just subs and amps.
How to properly tune a dsp. I bought Helix mini mk2 specifically because I've read on various forums it's software is easy. But to me there to still to many buttons and sliders. Why should I use a Butterworth crossover vs Linkwitz or Bessel for instance? Also installing a system in a hybrid or electric car is quite different. My hybrid does not have a alternator but a 1200 watt transformer. That places a limit on how much power your system can run at.
I wish I knew how bad of a job an installer can do just to work as fast as possible, I also wish I knew I can actually make most things myself better than most audio shops in my area. And I wish I knew how to pair SW power/output to the rest of the system. Probably I would have ended spending twice the money, but I'm sure I could have a system 10 times better right now
My biggest lesson has always been - don't rush an install. Cutting corners or using readily-available, but sub-par parts will be worse than waiting a day or two for the proper parts. Second biggest one is to not be afraid of asking for help if things start to get complicated. My HARDEST one was to not always trust your local shops - they operate on making sales and especially superfluous services. Don't feel ashamed for checking out several ones, getting quotes, going back and forth, and NEVER be afraid in saying no.
My #1 rule is only install myself and when installing do not rush anything, idc if it’s hooking the speaker wires into the box I do not rush. I had one mad experience with a shop and won’t go back to another one bc it’s not worth it to me bc I can do the same thing and make it sound just as good if not better after research
Great topic. I wasted alot of $ and even more time buying and installing unnecessary or poor quality gear in my vehicles over the years. Crutchfield has ALWAYS been a great resource, I been huge fan since I got my first catalog around 1988 or so. Now that we all have the internet in our pocket there's absolutely NO reason for folks to go into any kind of build blind like we sometimes had to do back in the day. Your channel (along with a few others) definitely help take the guesswork out of some of the pitfalls a person can come across on their audio journey. Thanks for all you do to spread legit knowledge.
I wish I had understood 20 years ago that I could have achieved the same results with a simpler, less complicated system. Too much equipment and too many speakers. While I have always been of the opinion that it is the installation, speaker placement and the tuning itself that makes a system sound great, I was essentially handy capping myself from the start by not taking a keep it simple approach to the initial system design and equipment selection. The benefits of hindsight I guess!
I run a ported comp sub off a mono block amp and my two tweeters and four door three way speakers off my double din and it sounds brilliant. KISS [keep it simple stupid]
Very first thing I did was rip out the entire interior and mat it. Still have 1/2 the floor and firewall to do, but I'm not ripping the dash out to do that.
I understand the value of a DSP, however if you do enough research you will find there is at least 1 headunit that has fantastic dsp settings, I bought a Kenwood a little while ago and while setting it up I discovered it has all sorts of time alignment settings including being able to set speaker sizes, locations, distances and delays for each speaker, my system is far from anything special but just upgrading to that headunit made a world of difference after already adding amps, subs and upgrading all 7 speakers, sounds incredible now for a 30 year old car, but I wish I could've retained the factory CD stacker
Wiring!!! I could not tell you how many speakers and amps I would I’ve ruined because I only had a tiny concept of wiring. Especially wiring up multiple dvc speakers. But in all honesty I have learned nearly everything I do now thanks to Marks extremely helpful, well detailed instructions. So thank you Mark!! You’re awesome bro!!
A DSP can't correct a bad installation...but it can correct many sounds issues that you otherwise couldn't "design your way out of" when building your system. You can understand all the best practices of installation and still not see all ends for how it will sound when everything is put together. That's where the DSP comes in.
Choosing the proper vehicle is paramount! Found this out the hard way many times . Also don't mix old school audio tech with new school , unless you're very experienced lol
You're right about modern cars being much more complicated! Honestly I don't like all the modern infotainment screens and stuff like that. In the older cars, it's not a difficult thing to install an aftermarket head unit, and that allows for cool stuff like adding carplay to a 96 Lincoln or something. Whenever the interface and features of a modern car start to feel clunky and outdated, I have no idea how you're supposed to make it feel modern again.
Time alignment is used to get sound waves in phase when they reach your ear. If you want the stage centered a little left or a little right after that, you need to adjust THE SPEAKER LEVEL, not mess up the perfect phase alignment that good time alignment achieves.
Thanks for pointing out the box spacing. I told this to people all the time. I used to have a power acoustic Gothic gw124 " the Walmart sleeper ". Everybody used to knock that subwoofer saying that it was crap and yet when I looked at all of their setups nobody that was talking bad about that sub had the proper enclosure size. If you look at the specs for the Walmart sleeper; you'll find that it wants 2.5 cubic feet minimum for a ported enclosure. Yet half the people that were talking bad about the sub had it in about 1.5 cubes. I built a custom box for my Walmart sleeper that was exactly 2.5 cubes before the port and my port also aligned with the specs recommended. I'll tell you what; my single Walmart 12 was pushing 138 decibels on the power acoustic RZR 1 2500 that I bought with it. Now I know that both the sub or the amp don't put out what they claim; but being a matched set, tuned properly, in the recommended box size; I was louder with a single Walmart 12 set up properly, than a couple people I know that had multiple name brand subs on multiple amps. I banged the system on a regular basis almost every day, and never had any problems with heat, bottom out, distortion, nothing. You take what you have and you set it up properly and tune it properly and you'll have spectacular sound. If you want the knocks it's about the box.
I hear this BS all the time and it's so cliche!! I don't care how perfect you get your one 12, you won't out do multiple 12's unless they were severely under powered and considering you said multiple amps I find that unlikely. I also find it unlikely that somebody getting name brand subs and multiple amps would somehow F up the box size, which is often a well known factor if you do any kind of audio research whatsoever. They would literally have to be total F'n idiots to make dual 12's sound worse than one and beating total idiots isn't something to brag about. And total idiots wouldn't be able to wire up multiple amps and subs, so I call total BS on all these F'n fantasy stories.
Agreed mate. My Kenwood 10" budget sub in a slightly oversized box (1.25 cu/ft) paired with an Alpine MRV-T407 capable of twice the RMS power of the sub... Gains set correctly (IE impedance matching NOT as a 'volume control' LOL). Run flat on the head unit, no EQ, no bass enhancement or BBE etc... All switched to OFF. By FAR the best sounding bass I and many of my friends (1 who happens to be a professional sound engineer working for Britannia Row Productions) have ever heard. Big, fat, weighty, extremely punchy bass with an incredibly fast attack and decay. I have NEVER heard a rock kick drum sound soooo FAT and TIGHT at the same time. (Limp Bizkit - Chocolate Starfish album) showed this off the most. Micheal Jackson Greatest Hits CD also for the dynamics, tightness and subtleties in the deep, deep low end that envoke such emotion in you. I had never experienced this element of his music before this subwoofer setup, I honestly doubt many people have. I have heard multiple kW 18" systems and loads of ported 12/15" systems with 1kW+ amplification. None of them sounded like my 130W Kenwood. They were much louder and played lower with more authority but that's it. SQ wise they all sucked tbh.
Hey Mark I just used your crutchfield discount for the kicker snowman pods! Thank you so much! Love your channel as it has helped me be a better DIYer installing all my own gear!
@@darkwinter6028 That's how I build now. My current TwK88 system is loooovely. And yet, even when building for SQ, you're going to end up with a system that can run at 112+ dB whether you want it or not. And 112 is enough to hurt you. So I must exercise maturity and restraint! But damn... It's hard to exercise maturity and restraint ALL the time...☺️
Not a shameless plug. I've viewed most his the videos and see it as time well invested. Only one issue, since he joined forces with Mrs. Car Audio there have been fewer videos 😁
Dang man, you've always had great info. Thanks for keeping it simple for a lot of those young up and commers. My buddies used to just take their home system and throw it in the back of a 95 Caddy and call it good. Keep it up man.
I've been a customer of Crutchfield for decades, without a single disappointment. Having said that, I do understand the mathematics and physics involved in making a great sounding bangs for bucks install.
This is the video for the times. Information is more widely available now. Things used to be trial & error. There is some of that now, but all it takes is the right piece of knowledge given to the right seeker...
I need help. I have a 2021 Subaru WRX STI. I wanna keep the stock radio. So I installed new speakers and speaker wires. I cut the wires from the stock amplifier to my line output converters. With the head unit maxed out I'm only getting.3 volts out of the RCA jack's does the amplifier need to see a resistance from the speakers. I'm confused. Help please. Thanks
I have always wanted a sound quality install after my 140db/148db setup in my s10 back in the day. There's so much i learned but am always still learning. I havn't had a system in years just due to the fact i want to get it right and spend money in the right areas to have quality mids/highs and not just killer bass. My favorite part of my old setup was the Crutchfield brand class a/b amp that ran my mids/highs but I did not have proper sound processing to make it sound as good as it could.
Unfortunately in 1998 when I was competing in USAC there was very little internet and a lot of the tech today just didn’t exist. To bad Soundstream just isn’t what it was. Really enjoyed there 10.0s class A amps and there Reference series Class ABs
I do love how my old truck which I replaced all 4 of its speakers and headunit I did the entire install with a screwdriver, a lighter, and some cutters.
I threw my Butler tube amp in the garbage. Thought was it was faulty from sitting around... ended up being a bad ground in the vehicle. Metal component was actually isolated from vehicle chassis grounding. Was such a good amp
All good comments. Having a quality source is important for tunning. Over the air radio and streaming vary greatly in the sound. I've caught the same song on two different stations and amazed at how different they can sound.
I currently have a subwoofer in my car. I love a deep bass, but what i don't like is the rattle shake and roll vibration I'm hearing that many seem to love. Is there a sub woofer that doesn't shake and vibrate to the point your entire car shakes?
Good Morning. I am planning on replacing all my speakers in my 2007 ES 350 Lexus. I found the manual for the model I have and the stock amplifier where for the subwoofer it reads a 2.5 ohm. I was wondering is it better to get a 2,4,duel 2, one that has both 2 and 4 ohm. Or is there a way to wire it to a 2.5 ohm. The subwoofer that came stock is blown so don't want to replace everything and only sub. Does it matter if I use a 2 or 4 casue I can't find a 2.5 ohm. Thanks
Speaking of enclosures and air volume. I'm going to build a stealthy subwoofer in my Honda Civic and my current design has 42.45 liters. Could I look for a subwoofer that are close to those specs or should I find one that works best at let's say 40 liters and adjust my design? How much difference does 2,5 liters make? When I think about it those 42.4 liters are just the box. I haven't calculated with the volume the subwoofer occupies as well as supports in the box.
Wish I knew about your website… amazing resource…. I bought design for a ported sub box for $10 it works awesome …and all the the links for your videos amazing
I just wanted to add a tip for finding a good ground in your vehicle. So before you check for a good ground run your power wire from the engine bay to where your power run needs to go. Then connect the end that's in the engine bay to where you are going to use your engine bay ground point. For example if you are going to ground your battery to the chassis of your car inside the engine bay Connect the power wire to that spot then in the back of your car use a multimeter to check for spots with extremely low resistance (sub 0.1 ohm but 0.01 or lower is best). The run of power wire will likely be extremely low resistance and you can measure it before you run it as long as you don't change it's length. Lets say that your power wire has a resistance of 0.1ohm and you measure 0.11ohm where you wanna use ground then you are probably in good shape to use that ground point as it didn't add a significant amount of resistance from the front of the car to the rear. At least that's what I did when running my power wires and looking for a good trunk ground.
Also for the record our master audio crafter here is where i first learned sound treatment is a thing honestly i felt a little stupid when i learned it because ive installed sound treatment in homes for studios but then again we all have those moments where we just overlooked the concept
I wish I had understood that 300 total rms watts (speakers and sub) is more than enough if everything is installed properly with a correct sub box and proper sound dampening.
So true!!! My system has 200 watts total with plenty of damping in a 06 CR-V! One Sony 4 ch. and components up front and two bazooka bass tubes in back!!!
Hi Mark, thanks for this informational video. I am planning to get the following after market components installed with my stock HU, what do you think about it: - Morel maximo ultra mk2 component - Morel maximo ultra mk2 coaxial - Zapco ST68X 8ch DSP + 4ch amp - Zapco ST4X II Amp - Morel primo12 subwoofer
Wow, alot of this stuff, i already knew. But i learned a few good pointers. Its nice when you watch a video and know first thing, that the creator obviously knows his stuff
Let's say I use 2 gauge power wire that is roughly 5m ( 16 feet ) long. But my Ground needs to be only 1m ( 3 feet ). Would it be fine to use same 2 gauge for ground?
Thank you for emphasizing "might be better" because often you're paying for a name plate and nothing else. (DS18 and MB Quart are great examples, Amps don't do rated and are priced higher than competition that does do rated)
Great video but I do have a question. As for air volume for a sub, if the sub has a range, say .25-.75 cubic feet, is it better to be nearer the lower end or higher end for the box build? What would be the performance difference or sound difference?
definitely a great site. only complaint is that they keep claiming I have speakers in my hatch that I have yet to find and I've gutted the vehicle. maybe I just didn't get that in mine? 87 dodge Shelby.
Manufacturers are integrating LOC's into their amplifiers. This eliminates the need for an LOC like the AudioControl LC2i. You can simply feed the 2V signal (Ford for example) by splicing the speaker wires into the JD500/1 RCA inputs. It picks up the signal and powers on and off automatically.
Beside actual speakers and subs, the biggest difference I've experienced is getting a dm-608, second to that is going nuts on the power to supply the amps. Low voltage is bad all around, for every single thing in your system. After those two, sound treatment. Your car/truck is made with metal, it makes noise. And it makes for an all around more quiet comfortable drive.
I got a 12in kicker comp R in a customer ported Kicker box. It was ok and then i covered the port and it hits SO much harder and lower. Wonder why that is
Where do you guys find an endless supply of flac downloads? I've been into car audio for 15 years and still have not found the ultimate plug. I'm also pretty skeptical about downloading from a numerous amount of sources. I grew up in the limewire era.
I have a question if I was to say buy a 2in 4 out distribution and install one input as the power input and one as ground input to do a dual setup. I'm new to this. I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a factory radio and 8 factory speakers. I am planning on upgrading later, just trying to get some idea before starting my project. I'm planning to put just 2 8in subs in a non-ported box right with a 1500watt amp
is the magnet on that sub tops 1/4 lb lol you toss it around like a pen in your hand JL's base line has really lightened up... my old HX2 and you would have not done this
Hello I drive a Toyota highlander 2023 model with 11 speaker Jbl. I am planning to get a sub and amplifier. I do not want to change the speakers and the stock headunit. Do I need a DSP ? Thank you
Awesome tips! Just had a question about the ground wire one. Even if the wire ground wire is sufficient for its distance we should have just as big as the power wire coming from the battery? For example, the system I want to install pulls around 182amps. So I would need 2AWG wire (2018 WRX). I went with 1/0AWG to be safe and it was easier to find. But I can't use 4AWG for the 2ft long ground coming from the distribution block to the car's frame?
No, you absolutely cannot. You need current to flow, in order for that to happen, your wire has to be able to accommodate that flow in both directions, positive and negative. Think of it like water pipes. You can't take a 36 inch water pipe and expect a garden hose to handle the output flow. Same concept with electricity 👈
@@huhdidwhat but doesn’t the same concept that the longer the run the thicker the power wire needs to be? Why I need the same gauge ground if I’m running 6in in the trunk vs running back to the battery in the engine bay? If the amps were in the engine bay the power wire wouldn’t need to be a thick. I’m not saying you’re wrong I’m just having trouble understanding the concept
@@_gregvalencia concept is simple. every wire is a resistor. the thinner the wire - the more is the resistance for the same length. more resistance means more heat and more voltage drop. So, you need wire that's capable of that current handling, and if it's really short - you're safe to go. For example, I have 10mm² cable for positive wire as it 1.5-2 meters long to minimize voltage drop for such length. While my negative wire if 6mm², as it is only 0.2 meters long. Fuses are 50A and 6mm² wire is capable of handling 50A.
Damn all that JL and you put an audio control unit in the mix vs the JL TwK88. You like the audio control better? I had nothing but issues with audio control, products and company. The TwK88 is has more of a learning curve and the software needs improving. Been a while since I was a audio control dealer though, maybe it has improved.
The last 3 cars I've had 97 seville 08 BMW 335XI and 2017 Cadillac ATS crutchfield told me I couldn't put a stereo system in those cars and I did lol my advice if your going through crutchfield if they tell you can't do it don't listen keep looking. They do have good advice i will say
I wish I knew how to use CAD to model the sub enclosure in 3D to quickly and accurately be able to measure internal volumes for vented enclosures. What CAD package do you use and how do you measure net volume vs port volume during the design process?
Hi im new to this but wanting to get subwoofers but I have a question please can you listen to subwoofers for hours or do you need to let them cool down I'm looking at low power subwoofers and not showing off just my personal use probably a 12 inch with about 300 to 500 watts any information is truly appreciated thank you for your time and have a great day fred
Wow I never knew that there were amplifiers with a max gain clip notification light. My audio expertise is stuck in the late 90s-2000s still. Time to live in the now Wayne!
I was born in ‘03 but hangout with people much older then me and hanging out with dad and his friends in the garage so when I was learning about car audio they were still using their 90’s/early 2000’s setups so I get what you’re saying with being stuck in time
When i was a teenager my car system 2 12 w6v2 jl audio 1 1000/1 jl audio 16 farah cap 1k of trunk dynamite 2 Blue battery cap Pioneer dolphin head unit
Hi mark I need your help please I have Camry xse 2019 with original factory head unit radio 7 inch I want upgrade all 6 speaker and add subwoofer 8 inch and 2 speakers 4 inch in rear dashboard with amplifier 1340 rms 5 channel What should be do or selected from this vedio Dsp or line output converter or line input converter
The wiring part is what i didt know 30 years ago. But i actually reasoned my way thru the wrong answer. The word amplify seems to indicate taking small power and making big power from it..,amplify. Call it a power relocator and people would understand 😉
I bought a 12" Alpine type R that came with cable and the amp with it off of Amazon. it's an 1800 watt system do I need to do anything else? and is that a good purchase?
Hi Mark! Can you help me design a sealed box for my Single Sundown SA10 dual 2 ohms. I’m putting this sub in my E39 1999 BMW. Powered by a HiFonics 1800.1 The height must not exceed 11.5” or it will hit the top baffle.
Can someone tell me is my sealed subwoofer box too large. I have 80.2 liter box made by myself and i have 2 12" ground zero subwoofers in it. On the web it says ported box size 37L and sealed recommended 30L. Is the added 25% size on the box making it too easy for the speakers to hit bottom?
@@Averna222 didnt even know there was information out there that was consistent with what i was hearing when using the service. I appreciate the information
Was wondering if you had a recommendation. I just bought a AudioPipe TXX-BDC4-12D 12 Inch 2,200 Watt High Performance Powerful Dual 2 Ohm DVC. I am having a hard time figuring out what amp to pair up. It is in a Qbox single 12" ported. I was wondering what amp will push its peak without blowing the sub. Any suggestions?? Thanks
I wish I knew that a bass restoration processor should be the first component after a headunit, before a EQ or a crossover. I've asked and seen most setups with a BRP as the last component before the amp, which is how mine is hooked up. I want to "correct" it but something tells me it wont make a difference because of the crossover before it. I was looking into a DSP, is there a way too add one into my system and still keep my current components?. Specifically I have a sony headunit to a 7 band EQ under it in the dash, in the trunk I have the active crossover and the BRP going to 2 amps, specifically Skar RP150.4ABM and a RP800.1DM. If it is possible, where in the system should I add a DSP to make the most of it?. TIA.
Hey I love your channel but the information on one of these subjects is not accurate. I have an aftermarket head unit SONY 9500ES and I do not need a DSP at all. This unit allows me full control of all speaker’s individually. You stated that aftermarket units do not allow this. I think I’m correct so please if I’m wrong let me know
Let's say you are running an active 2 way component set in front. You need to time delay each speaker with tweeter in the sail and woofer in the door. (An extremely common set up). With that head unit you can only delay front L/R and rear L/R so you are left trying to decide which is more important to delay to the listening position. You have to concede performance. This issue is compounded when you need to set up time delay for an active three way set with 6 speaker locations up front, or even more importantly, EQ each individual speaker. Is that a great head unit? Yes. But is it a replacement for a true DSP in an advanced application? No.
To the comment about the ground wire. It's fun to think that in electrical theory we think of energy flowing from positive to negative.... In reality, that was actually a foundational mistake, electron flow is from negative to positive. The chassis of the car is your negative lead haha. In reality, it doesnt really matter, as you say its the whole circuit that's the most important to consider.
My car audio glitches out and throws the speaker balance around left and right....haven't been able to enjoy or replace the deck yet....the old non GSM deck didn't do that lol
Is it ok to ground an amp directly to the battery - ve terminal (battery is in the boot, close to where my amp will be), or should I find an alternate grounding point???
@@JOHNSMITH-Figment I know that's best practice, but surely the frame earths at the battery - ve? Car is an Audi A2, so aluminium space frame and boot floor is some kind of plastic/composite! Prob be a longer cable run to earth on the frame rather than battery! Will do some testing with my meter!
Let's hear from you! What's something you wish you knew before you built and installed your first car audio system?
proper vehicle selection, and managing expectations. you can't physically fit 10 15's in a hyundai accent, so you can't expect the final system to crush 150 db. there's a reason why the most common vehicles for SPL are tahoes and suburbans and the like and usually you'll find SQ builds in cars that are meant to be driven for hours. not to say there isn't crossover between the two, but think about how you're going to use the vehicle. is it a daily driver? will it be your grocery getter? can't make a walmart trip in your hyundai and get groceries if the entire thing from the b pillar back is now a sub enclosure. also not just beefing up electrical to compensate for the stereo, but the rest of the vehicle as well. all the equipment will be heavier, which means more suspension to maintain OE performance. more weight also takes longer to stop, so a big brake kit might be needed. tires are also rated to specific capabilities, are yours enough to literally hold the weight of the car, and now the added weight of the stereo, and perform adequately during braking? EXO addresses alot of this in his new build and even soundman has commented on it. depending on the desired end result, there's a certain recipe to get there, and it's not all just subs and amps.
... to know that this channel exists would have helped tremendously
How to properly tune a dsp. I bought Helix mini mk2 specifically because I've read on various forums it's software is easy. But to me there to still to many buttons and sliders. Why should I use a Butterworth crossover vs Linkwitz or Bessel for instance?
Also installing a system in a hybrid or electric car is quite different. My hybrid does not have a alternator but a 1200 watt transformer. That places a limit on how much power your system can run at.
I wish I knew how bad of a job an installer can do just to work as fast as possible, I also wish I knew I can actually make most things myself better than most audio shops in my area. And I wish I knew how to pair SW power/output to the rest of the system.
Probably I would have ended spending twice the money, but I'm sure I could have a system 10 times better right now
That I actually was never going to grow out of it. I still love it as much if not more over 30 years later. 🤟
My biggest lesson has always been - don't rush an install. Cutting corners or using readily-available, but sub-par parts will be worse than waiting a day or two for the proper parts.
Second biggest one is to not be afraid of asking for help if things start to get complicated.
My HARDEST one was to not always trust your local shops - they operate on making sales and especially superfluous services. Don't feel ashamed for checking out several ones, getting quotes, going back and forth, and NEVER be afraid in saying no.
Rushing, that was always my biggest mistake.
My #1 rule is only install myself and when installing do not rush anything, idc if it’s hooking the speaker wires into the box I do not rush.
I had one mad experience with a shop and won’t go back to another one bc it’s not worth it to me bc I can do the same thing and make it sound just as good if not better after research
good point
Great topic. I wasted alot of $ and even more time buying and installing unnecessary or poor quality gear in my vehicles over the years. Crutchfield has ALWAYS been a great resource, I been huge fan since I got my first catalog around 1988 or so. Now that we all have the internet in our pocket there's absolutely NO reason for folks to go into any kind of build blind like we sometimes had to do back in the day. Your channel (along with a few others) definitely help take the guesswork out of some of the pitfalls a person can come across on their audio journey. Thanks for all you do to spread legit knowledge.
pretty rare to do something never done before now
I wish I had understood 20 years ago that I could have achieved the same results with a simpler, less complicated system. Too much equipment and too many speakers. While I have always been of the opinion that it is the installation, speaker placement and the tuning itself that makes a system sound great, I was essentially handy capping myself from the start by not taking a keep it simple approach to the initial system design and equipment selection. The benefits of hindsight I guess!
Just look at the all time champion sound quality competition car, Richard Clark's Grand National. It only has 6 speakers and 6 amps.
@@th-hx7st I don't run 6 amps but mine go to 11.
Handy capped
I run a ported comp sub off a mono block amp and my two tweeters and four door three way speakers off my double din and it sounds brilliant. KISS [keep it simple stupid]
@@firefueled no component speakers?
Sound deadening makes a world of difference. Wish I’d had known this years ago.
Very first thing I did was rip out the entire interior and mat it. Still have 1/2 the floor and firewall to do, but I'm not ripping the dash out to do that.
Very informative. DSPs can and will make your amps work harder and smarter with efficiency. Thank you!
I understand the value of a DSP, however if you do enough research you will find there is at least 1 headunit that has fantastic dsp settings, I bought a Kenwood a little while ago and while setting it up I discovered it has all sorts of time alignment settings including being able to set speaker sizes, locations, distances and delays for each speaker, my system is far from anything special but just upgrading to that headunit made a world of difference after already adding amps, subs and upgrading all 7 speakers, sounds incredible now for a 30 year old car, but I wish I could've retained the factory CD stacker
Dsp's and eq's look great in hardware form but all that and a lot more tuning is available through softwares; many of them at no cost.
@@oscarishandsome5150 any suggestions?
Those are normal features. Every radio I've ever had has had all those features
Why didn't you get the DVD version if you wanted to keep CD?
@@NoMoreBsPlease you've misunderstood, they didn't mean any cd player, they meant the factory cd player for a factory look. That was my take anyway.
Wiring!!! I could not tell you how many speakers and amps I would I’ve ruined because I only had a tiny concept of wiring. Especially wiring up multiple dvc speakers. But in all honesty I have learned nearly everything I do now thanks to Marks extremely helpful, well detailed instructions. So thank you Mark!! You’re awesome bro!!
Your videos are such high quality. I wish everyone else on TH-cam was so articulate. If I could subscribe a million times I would lol
A DSP can't correct a bad installation...but it can correct many sounds issues that you otherwise couldn't "design your way out of" when building your system. You can understand all the best practices of installation and still not see all ends for how it will sound when everything is put together. That's where the DSP comes in.
Choosing the proper vehicle is paramount!
Found this out the hard way many times .
Also don't mix old school audio tech with new school , unless you're very experienced lol
You're right about modern cars being much more complicated! Honestly I don't like all the modern infotainment screens and stuff like that. In the older cars, it's not a difficult thing to install an aftermarket head unit, and that allows for cool stuff like adding carplay to a 96 Lincoln or something. Whenever the interface and features of a modern car start to feel clunky and outdated, I have no idea how you're supposed to make it feel modern again.
Time alignment is used to get sound waves in phase when they reach your ear. If you want the stage centered a little left or a little right after that, you need to adjust THE SPEAKER LEVEL, not mess up the perfect phase alignment that good time alignment achieves.
Thanks for pointing out the box spacing. I told this to people all the time. I used to have a power acoustic Gothic gw124 " the Walmart sleeper ". Everybody used to knock that subwoofer saying that it was crap and yet when I looked at all of their setups nobody that was talking bad about that sub had the proper enclosure size. If you look at the specs for the Walmart sleeper; you'll find that it wants 2.5 cubic feet minimum for a ported enclosure. Yet half the people that were talking bad about the sub had it in about 1.5 cubes. I built a custom box for my Walmart sleeper that was exactly 2.5 cubes before the port and my port also aligned with the specs recommended. I'll tell you what; my single Walmart 12 was pushing 138 decibels on the power acoustic RZR 1 2500 that I bought with it. Now I know that both the sub or the amp don't put out what they claim; but being a matched set, tuned properly, in the recommended box size; I was louder with a single Walmart 12 set up properly, than a couple people I know that had multiple name brand subs on multiple amps. I banged the system on a regular basis almost every day, and never had any problems with heat, bottom out, distortion, nothing. You take what you have and you set it up properly and tune it properly and you'll have spectacular sound. If you want the knocks it's about the box.
I hear this BS all the time and it's so cliche!! I don't care how perfect you get your one 12, you won't out do multiple 12's unless they were severely under powered and considering you said multiple amps I find that unlikely. I also find it unlikely that somebody getting name brand subs and multiple amps would somehow F up the box size, which is often a well known factor if you do any kind of audio research whatsoever. They would literally have to be total F'n idiots to make dual 12's sound worse than one and beating total idiots isn't something to brag about. And total idiots wouldn't be able to wire up multiple amps and subs, so I call total BS on all these F'n fantasy stories.
Agreed mate. My Kenwood 10" budget sub in a slightly oversized box (1.25 cu/ft) paired with an Alpine MRV-T407 capable of twice the RMS power of the sub... Gains set correctly (IE impedance matching NOT as a 'volume control' LOL).
Run flat on the head unit, no EQ, no bass enhancement or BBE etc... All switched to OFF.
By FAR the best sounding bass I and many of my friends (1 who happens to be a professional sound engineer working for Britannia Row Productions) have ever heard.
Big, fat, weighty, extremely punchy bass with an incredibly fast attack and decay. I have NEVER heard a rock kick drum sound soooo FAT and TIGHT at the same time. (Limp Bizkit - Chocolate Starfish album) showed this off the most. Micheal Jackson Greatest Hits CD also for the dynamics, tightness and subtleties in the deep, deep low end that envoke such emotion in you. I had never experienced this element of his music before this subwoofer setup, I honestly doubt many people have.
I have heard multiple kW 18" systems and loads of ported 12/15" systems with 1kW+ amplification. None of them sounded like my 130W Kenwood. They were much louder and played lower with more authority but that's it. SQ wise they all sucked tbh.
Hey Mark I just used your crutchfield discount for the kicker snowman pods! Thank you so much! Love your channel as it has helped me be a better DIYer installing all my own gear!
I wish that I'd known that I was definitely going to cause irreparable hearing damage, and that I'd regret it.
Distortion is bad!
Loud noise for extended periods = hearing damage.
You knew and didn’t care or failed biology. 🤷♂️
Design for clarity, not loudness!
@@BS-Reviewz It's the former.😞 (I've never failed anything. But that doesn't mean I've always made the best choices...)
@@darkwinter6028 That's how I build now. My current TwK88 system is loooovely. And yet, even when building for SQ, you're going to end up with a system that can run at 112+ dB whether you want it or not. And 112 is enough to hurt you. So I must exercise maturity and restraint! But damn... It's hard to exercise maturity and restraint ALL the time...☺️
Thanks Mark for including me. Also I wish I knew that there were better fasteners to install subs onto a box. Like nutserts. 🤔
Not a shameless plug. I've viewed most his the videos and see it as time well invested. Only one issue, since he joined forces with Mrs. Car Audio there have been fewer videos 😁
Dang man, you've always had great info. Thanks for keeping it simple for a lot of those young up and commers. My buddies used to just take their home system and throw it in the back of a 95 Caddy and call it good. Keep it up man.
tip/idea
use a rubber washer on the speaker mounting bolts between the speaker frame and the car door or dash to reduce vibration?
You know those little rubber strips left after stripping your wire? Those are perfect for this and under the amp as feet
I've been a customer of Crutchfield for decades, without a single disappointment. Having said that, I do understand the mathematics and physics involved in making a great sounding bangs for bucks install.
This is the video for the times. Information is more widely available now. Things used to be trial & error. There is some of that now, but all it takes is the right piece of knowledge given to the right seeker...
I need help. I have a 2021 Subaru WRX STI. I wanna keep the stock radio. So I installed new speakers and speaker wires. I cut the wires from the stock amplifier to my line output converters. With the head unit maxed out I'm only getting.3 volts out of the RCA jack's does the amplifier need to see a resistance from the speakers. I'm confused. Help please. Thanks
Impendence rise. Thinking I was constantly getting the RMS was a big mistake. I always get double than what I need to hopefully fight some rise
I have always wanted a sound quality install after my 140db/148db setup in my s10 back in the day. There's so much i learned but am always still learning. I havn't had a system in years just due to the fact i want to get it right and spend money in the right areas to have quality mids/highs and not just killer bass. My favorite part of my old setup was the Crutchfield brand class a/b amp that ran my mids/highs but I did not have proper sound processing to make it sound as good as it could.
Unfortunately in 1998 when I was competing in USAC there was very little internet and a lot of the tech today just didn’t exist. To bad Soundstream just isn’t what it was. Really enjoyed there 10.0s class A amps and there Reference series Class ABs
Thanx for using my comment! 💯
I do love how my old truck which I replaced all 4 of its speakers and headunit I did the entire install with a screwdriver, a lighter, and some cutters.
Me and my dad just used the mounting screw for the wood board for my amp and it works perfect, I’m glad I didn’t have to sturggle
I threw my Butler tube amp in the garbage. Thought was it was faulty from sitting around... ended up being a bad ground in the vehicle. Metal component was actually isolated from vehicle chassis grounding. Was such a good amp
All good comments.
Having a quality source is important for tunning.
Over the air radio and streaming vary greatly in the sound. I've caught the same song on two different stations and amazed at how different they can sound.
Radio station??? Do you upgrade your audio system to listen to radio???
@@oscarishandsome5150 Of course I listen to the radio.
@@davect01 offline radio would be the poorest audio source you can have.
@@oscarishandsome5150 I would never tune via the radio.
I currently have a subwoofer in my car. I love a deep bass, but what i don't like is the rattle shake and roll vibration I'm hearing that many seem to love. Is there a sub woofer that doesn't shake and vibrate to the point your entire car shakes?
Good Morning. I am planning on replacing all my speakers in my 2007 ES 350 Lexus. I found the manual for the model I have and the stock amplifier where for the subwoofer it reads a 2.5 ohm. I was wondering is it better to get a 2,4,duel 2, one that has both 2 and 4 ohm. Or is there a way to wire it to a 2.5 ohm. The subwoofer that came stock is blown so don't want to replace everything and only sub. Does it matter if I use a 2 or 4 casue I can't find a 2.5 ohm. Thanks
Get a 2ohm sub
Speaking of enclosures and air volume. I'm going to build a stealthy subwoofer in my Honda Civic and my current design has 42.45 liters. Could I look for a subwoofer that are close to those specs or should I find one that works best at let's say 40 liters and adjust my design? How much difference does 2,5 liters make?
When I think about it those 42.4 liters are just the box. I haven't calculated with the volume the subwoofer occupies as well as supports in the box.
Wish I knew about your website… amazing resource…. I bought design for a ported sub box for $10 it works awesome …and all the the links for your videos amazing
I just wanted to add a tip for finding a good ground in your vehicle. So before you check for a good ground run your power wire from the engine bay to where your power run needs to go. Then connect the end that's in the engine bay to where you are going to use your engine bay ground point. For example if you are going to ground your battery to the chassis of your car inside the engine bay Connect the power wire to that spot then in the back of your car use a multimeter to check for spots with extremely low resistance (sub 0.1 ohm but 0.01 or lower is best). The run of power wire will likely be extremely low resistance and you can measure it before you run it as long as you don't change it's length. Lets say that your power wire has a resistance of 0.1ohm and you measure 0.11ohm where you wanna use ground then you are probably in good shape to use that ground point as it didn't add a significant amount of resistance from the front of the car to the rear. At least that's what I did when running my power wires and looking for a good trunk ground.
Also for the record our master audio crafter here is where i first learned sound treatment is a thing honestly i felt a little stupid when i learned it because ive installed sound treatment in homes for studios but then again we all have those moments where we just overlooked the concept
I wish I had understood that 300 total rms watts (speakers and sub) is more than enough if everything is installed properly with a correct sub box and proper sound dampening.
So true!!! My system has 200 watts total with plenty of damping in a 06 CR-V! One Sony 4 ch. and components up front and two bazooka bass tubes in back!!!
As far as the thickness for the ground wire, it's also worth noting that electrons flow from negative to positive.
Hi Mark, thanks for this informational video. I am planning to get the following after market components installed with my stock HU, what do you think about it:
- Morel maximo ultra mk2 component
- Morel maximo ultra mk2 coaxial
- Zapco ST68X 8ch DSP + 4ch amp
- Zapco ST4X II Amp
- Morel primo12 subwoofer
Wow, alot of this stuff, i already knew. But i learned a few good pointers. Its nice when you watch a video and know first thing, that the creator obviously knows his stuff
Let's say I use 2 gauge power wire that is roughly 5m ( 16 feet ) long. But my Ground needs to be only 1m ( 3 feet ). Would it be fine to use same 2 gauge for ground?
Yes
Thank you for emphasizing "might be better" because often you're paying for a name plate and nothing else. (DS18 and MB Quart are great examples, Amps don't do rated and are priced higher than competition that does do rated)
Dsp in an audio system is amazing, biggest boost in sound quality that I've ever noticed
Do you have to have an aftermarket head unit for a DSP????
No
Great video but I do have a question. As for air volume for a sub, if the sub has a range, say .25-.75 cubic feet, is it better to be nearer the lower end or higher end for the box build? What would be the performance difference or sound difference?
definitely a great site. only complaint is that they keep claiming I have speakers in my hatch that I have yet to find and I've gutted the vehicle. maybe I just didn't get that in mine? 87 dodge Shelby.
Manufacturers are integrating LOC's into their amplifiers. This eliminates the need for an LOC like the AudioControl LC2i. You can simply feed the 2V signal (Ford for example) by splicing the speaker wires into the JD500/1 RCA inputs. It picks up the signal and powers on and off automatically.
Any ideas on a stereo for my 2006 Acura MDX with Bose & Nav system? Crutchfield didn't have anything.
Beside actual speakers and subs, the biggest difference I've experienced is getting a dm-608, second to that is going nuts on the power to supply the amps. Low voltage is bad all around, for every single thing in your system. After those two, sound treatment. Your car/truck is made with metal, it makes noise. And it makes for an all around more quiet comfortable drive.
I got a 12in kicker comp R in a customer ported Kicker box. It was ok and then i covered the port and it hits SO much harder and lower. Wonder why that is
Where do you guys find an endless supply of flac downloads? I've been into car audio for 15 years and still have not found the ultimate plug. I'm also pretty skeptical about downloading from a numerous amount of sources. I grew up in the limewire era.
I have a question if I was to say buy a 2in 4 out distribution and install one input as the power input and one as ground input to do a dual setup. I'm new to this. I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a factory radio and 8 factory speakers. I am planning on upgrading later, just trying to get some idea before starting my project. I'm planning to put just 2 8in subs in a non-ported box right with a 1500watt amp
is the magnet on that sub tops 1/4 lb lol you toss it around like a pen in your hand JL's base line has really lightened up... my old HX2 and you would have not done this
Still got a 10 hx2....feeding it 1000W
Class d mono amp....still DUMPING!!! Since 2003. And it's not even the power hx2. Just the punch.
@@marcobrigantetony anythink older bbq style and pre trans ana are the best the whole line every pcs you get more cheers
Hello
I drive a Toyota highlander 2023 model with 11 speaker Jbl.
I am planning to get a sub and amplifier.
I do not want to change the speakers and the stock headunit.
Do I need a DSP ?
Thank you
Can you make a custom subwoofer box for 2019 nissan titan crew cab? A box that can fit at least one 10in or 12in
Hey mate, where do you recommend listening to different car audio speakers ?
Remember the good old days when car stereo commercials were on the radio like 100 times a day.......those were the days....
1st time I actually did the math for the 2 12”s’, I was shocked at how hard and clear it hit! It’s Well worth it!(I Fucking Hate math 🤣🤣)🤘🏻
Proper design and planning is always critical!
Awesome tips! Just had a question about the ground wire one. Even if the wire ground wire is sufficient for its distance we should have just as big as the power wire coming from the battery? For example, the system I want to install pulls around 182amps. So I would need 2AWG wire (2018 WRX). I went with 1/0AWG to be safe and it was easier to find. But I can't use 4AWG for the 2ft long ground coming from the distribution block to the car's frame?
No, you absolutely cannot. You need current to flow, in order for that to happen, your wire has to be able to accommodate that flow in both directions, positive and negative. Think of it like water pipes. You can't take a 36 inch water pipe and expect a garden hose to handle the output flow. Same concept with electricity 👈
@@huhdidwhat but doesn’t the same concept that the longer the run the thicker the power wire needs to be? Why I need the same gauge ground if I’m running 6in in the trunk vs running back to the battery in the engine bay? If the amps were in the engine bay the power wire wouldn’t need to be a thick. I’m not saying you’re wrong I’m just having trouble understanding the concept
@@_gregvalencia concept is simple. every wire is a resistor. the thinner the wire - the more is the resistance for the same length. more resistance means more heat and more voltage drop. So, you need wire that's capable of that current handling, and if it's really short - you're safe to go.
For example, I have 10mm² cable for positive wire as it 1.5-2 meters long to minimize voltage drop for such length. While my negative wire if 6mm², as it is only 0.2 meters long. Fuses are 50A and 6mm² wire is capable of handling 50A.
Damn all that JL and you put an audio control unit in the mix vs the JL TwK88. You like the audio control better? I had nothing but issues with audio control, products and company. The TwK88 is has more of a learning curve and the software needs improving. Been a while since I was a audio control dealer though, maybe it has improved.
The last 3 cars I've had 97 seville 08 BMW 335XI and 2017 Cadillac ATS crutchfield told me I couldn't put a stereo system in those cars and I did lol my advice if your going through crutchfield if they tell you can't do it don't listen keep looking. They do have good advice i will say
Love the 👕
Crutchfield since the magazines
what thickness mdf or plywood do you use and how do you mount it to the trunk floor? or does it float?
Crutchfield is the best!!!
I have installed steg mlg in front and steg leo in rear
I need a good SQ amplifier with great sound. Which is the best SQ amplifier in budget
I wish I knew how to use CAD to model the sub enclosure in 3D to quickly and accurately be able to measure internal volumes for vented enclosures. What CAD package do you use and how do you measure net volume vs port volume during the design process?
Lol
Back in the day you really could install a whole system with a Phillips screwdriver, Scissors and electrical tape. Lol
And/or a lighter 🤣
You still can.
I remember the high end pioneers used to have time alignment etc.
Still do
Hi im new to this but wanting to get subwoofers but I have a question please
can you listen to subwoofers for hours or do you need to let them cool down I'm looking at low power subwoofers and not showing off just my personal use probably a 12 inch with about 300 to 500 watts any information is truly appreciated thank you for your time and have a great day fred
In passive xover, what will be the core to use to save wire
Hey have you done any builds on a C10 truck? If so how can I find that episode
Wish I knew bigger doesn't always mean better like when I had a 15 inch subwoofer in a hatch. Plenty of vibration but that's it
Wow I never knew that there were amplifiers with a max gain clip notification light.
My audio expertise is stuck in the late 90s-2000s still.
Time to live in the now Wayne!
I was born in ‘03 but hangout with people much older then me and hanging out with dad and his friends in the garage so when I was learning about car audio they were still using their 90’s/early 2000’s setups so I get what you’re saying with being stuck in time
hello, if I give you the cabin size, can you tell me its features, such as how many liters and port hz
When i was a teenager my car system
2 12 w6v2 jl audio
1 1000/1 jl audio
16 farah cap
1k of trunk dynamite
2 Blue battery cap
Pioneer dolphin head unit
I wish I knew how to not be lazy/intimidated when running my power wire...still haven't mastered that. I love doing everything else.
Hi mark
I need your help please
I have Camry xse 2019 with original factory head unit radio 7 inch
I want upgrade all 6 speaker and add subwoofer 8 inch and 2 speakers 4 inch in rear dashboard with amplifier 1340 rms 5 channel
What should be do or selected from this vedio
Dsp or line output converter or line input converter
Learned that for hatchbacks and SUVS ported boxes almost always sound better than sealed. Sedan use a sealed box.
I have a sealed box in my sedan it's way worse than ported box in most cases. It's not that simple.
The wiring part is what i didt know 30 years ago. But i actually reasoned my way thru the wrong answer. The word amplify seems to indicate taking small power and making big power from it..,amplify. Call it a power relocator and people would understand 😉
In my case research is important and if your not satisfied then a little upgrade won't hurt you. 😁😉
I bought a 12" Alpine type R that came with cable and the amp with it off of Amazon. it's an 1800 watt system do I need to do anything else? and is that a good purchase?
Hi Mark! Can you help me design a sealed box for my Single Sundown SA10 dual 2 ohms. I’m putting this sub in my E39 1999 BMW. Powered by a HiFonics 1800.1
The height must not exceed 11.5” or it will hit the top baffle.
Can someone tell me is my sealed subwoofer box too large. I have 80.2 liter box made by myself and i have 2 12" ground zero subwoofers in it. On the web it says ported box size 37L and sealed recommended 30L. Is the added 25% size on the box making it too easy for the speakers to hit bottom?
I have found that with using spotify, the file quality is usually better when i have premium, and fairly poor when i do not have premium
You would be correct, premium streams at 320kb/s and the free version is half that.
@@Averna222 didnt even know there was information out there that was consistent with what i was hearing when using the service. I appreciate the information
When you sign up for premium it says you will get better quality
@@henninghellerud yeah but ive never noticed anything in that about SQ just the usual ad free nonsense they ralk about in there
Was wondering if you had a recommendation.
I just bought a AudioPipe TXX-BDC4-12D 12 Inch 2,200 Watt High Performance Powerful Dual 2 Ohm DVC.
I am having a hard time figuring out what amp to pair up.
It is in a Qbox single 12" ported.
I was wondering what amp will push its peak without blowing the sub.
Any suggestions??
Thanks
I remember my first ported box... Air speed was intense lol.
Recommend all audiocontrol amps and processors. Best in the business.
I wish I knew that a bass restoration processor should be the first component after a headunit, before a EQ or a crossover. I've asked and seen most setups with a BRP as the last component before the amp, which is how mine is hooked up. I want to "correct" it but something tells me it wont make a difference because of the crossover before it. I was looking into a DSP, is there a way too add one into my system and still keep my current components?. Specifically I have a sony headunit to a 7 band EQ under it in the dash, in the trunk I have the active crossover and the BRP going to 2 amps, specifically Skar RP150.4ABM and a RP800.1DM. If it is possible, where in the system should I add a DSP to make the most of it?. TIA.
I have a Mitsubishi triton 2015 I changed my stereo and now I don’t have steering wheel control for the radio what do I do?
Ive a nissan hardbody SL dubblecab 2001 3.3 V6 with 2 targa street(5500W) but i want to use my back seat space how can i make a subwoofer box?
Hey I love your channel but the information on one of these subjects is not accurate. I have an aftermarket head unit SONY 9500ES and I do not need a DSP at all. This unit allows me full control of all speaker’s individually. You stated that aftermarket units do not allow this. I think I’m correct so please if I’m wrong let me know
Let's say you are running an active 2 way component set in front. You need to time delay each speaker with tweeter in the sail and woofer in the door. (An extremely common set up). With that head unit you can only delay front L/R and rear L/R so you are left trying to decide which is more important to delay to the listening position. You have to concede performance. This issue is compounded when you need to set up time delay for an active three way set with 6 speaker locations up front, or even more importantly, EQ each individual speaker. Is that a great head unit? Yes. But is it a replacement for a true DSP in an advanced application? No.
To the comment about the ground wire. It's fun to think that in electrical theory we think of energy flowing from positive to negative.... In reality, that was actually a foundational mistake, electron flow is from negative to positive. The chassis of the car is your negative lead haha. In reality, it doesnt really matter, as you say its the whole circuit that's the most important to consider.
And the DSP is the upgraded version of the old Analog EQ's lol
What kind of speaker used for tomping
My pioneer deh-88prs does a pretty decent job in the dsp area for a head unit. Might not be as good as a stand alone dsp but...
Better than nothing
I would really like to know what is the software you are using to design the subwoofer!
The subwoofer “box”
My car audio glitches out and throws the speaker balance around left and right....haven't been able to enjoy or replace the deck yet....the old non GSM deck didn't do that lol
Is it ok to ground an amp directly to the battery - ve terminal (battery is in the boot, close to where my amp will be), or should I find an alternate grounding point???
No .. best practices is to dont connect ground directly to Battery. you want to connect ground to the frame or a hefty chunk of steal in the car
@@JOHNSMITH-Figment I know that's best practice, but surely the frame earths at the battery - ve?
Car is an Audi A2, so aluminium space frame and boot floor is some kind of plastic/composite!
Prob be a longer cable run to earth on the frame rather than battery!
Will do some testing with my meter!
Yes you can ground the amp to the battery. It’s recommended for aluminum frame vehicles.
I just bought 2022 ram 2500. The sounds is horrible. What you guys recommend for this vehicle?