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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- This video is part one of my build series of the AMT USS Enterprise E from Star Trek First Contact. Here I show how to light block the saucer from the outside and use a scraping method to reveal the window ports for lighting.
Great Job Boyd. I just Finished my top saucer and used a metal scrapping tool I got from CHINA. The point is super small and has a Dimond shape to the tip. Works perfect. I took your word and scrapping is the way to go. Thank you for the heads up.
Holy moly! I have this kit in my pile but made it a low priority because of window drilling. You made this a cake walk! Don’t even need to wait for a clear moulded reissue! I’ll get to light blocking this with ease!
Yeah it surprised me too how easy this was and the result is very good.
I remember building this kit with my dad around 20 years ago. Got a kit coming and gonna have to do this trick myself. it has a natural light diffusion too. Amazing work Boyd
At 28:43 when you said you would continue and be back, the it faded out.....you probably could've heard my jaw hit the floor when the video resumed! I did NOT expect to see those results!
Great job and what an asset you are to the model community! I can't wait to see more!
Great kit to build with some hard bits.
Looking forward to see the new tips.👍👍👍
I agree, this really does look fantastic.
That's outstanding. Wish I had thought of that method when I started mine back in 2014.I drilledf SO many windows!
I had been putting this one off because of all of the hours and hours of window drilling. I'm glad this worked and saved all of that time.
@@TrekWorks Not to mention you don't have to fill those windows with Canopy glue, etc.
Boyd that is an AMAZING idea! I can finally give this kit a go now!
Perfect!
@@TrekWorks Boyd was your kit white or light grey, its hard to make out in the video? The kit I have is the original release from First Contact and it is a light grey, which I think would still work with the technique you did in this video. Also are you going to correct the errors in the kit like the deflector and engine pylons?
The perfect way to attack those pesky windows. Nice going, Boyd!
Excellent idea and you’re right, it looks great!
Looking good.
Man this came right in time! I’ve just been commissioned to build a couple of these. This will save me a TON of time and effort and hopefully get a better result. Too bad this wouldn’t work on the Ent. D. The blue plastic doesn’t pass light hardly at all. And the clear kits are all but impossible to find. Next R2 releases those I’m grabbing at least 4-5
Great solution on the windows Boyd.
Awesome sauce!😀
Hello Boyd. I have the older Version of this Kit and i Messed the Saucer section up when i first tried Drilling the windows out. I would like to say that This Method Is The CORRECT AND BEST WAY to get the windows Lighted. Round 2 Needs to Promote This Video with the Supplied instructions on a Photo Card that should come in the Box. Round 2 Should Also Employ you Everytime a New Model is Built. James E Smalls is The Current Builder and He Does Excellent Work for the Models that are on the Back of the Box. But as Far as the Lighting Goes i Feel They should Use you as Well on some of the New Model Kits Coming out. You have Video History and James E Smalls. Does Not Promote his work on Video. He Only does Commission Builds. Too Bad You Were Not Able to do this Method back in 2013. This is Definitly a New Advancement in Model Building Techniques. Hey , You Are One Step Ahead of Steve Neil of SNG garage. With this One. Thanks again Boyd. Vic.
Stellar work, no pun intended! Can you link to the specific Solarez that you have in the video?
how exactly did you drill those holes in the windows. Im currently bulding the amt 1701-e first contact kit from 1997.
In 78 newyears We went to johnson space center and they had a 50 foot long uss enterprise hangin up upstairs with the port side on display and power cables comin out the starbord back side. Ive often wondered what happened to that?
Awesome
Wish I thought of this in the ‘90s when I drilled out these windows.😩
This is great. Been following the channel for years and just finally have recently started building again myself. Getting to see you do a complete step by step build with all your current techniques is great. Couple questions: Do you still use adhesion promoter? What do you use do to thin the craft paint?
Yes I normally do use the adhesion promoter but in this case I didn't want the paint to stick too good in the window areas. I won't be doing much masking off for the colors here as the decal set does most of it. Regular tap water is my thinner of choice for the craft paints. If you airbrush the craft paints it's very import to strain it after thinning. Otherwise the small chunks in it will clog your airbrush which sometimes makes you think it's not thinned enough.
Do you think this window painting/scraping technique would work on the 1/1400 Enterprise C?
Nice... Think this will work with the AMT Enterprise-D?
It works great on the clear molded version and should work on any other versions that are molded in a light color.
Saucer?
An archaic carryover from 1947 Roswell, NM? Seriously?
So I've been shopping for a decent, not expensive, Lazy Susan (and I know how that sounds, LOL). But I'm Gay, so....
That looks Amazing Boyd, I have this kit and i was going to Build the Nemesis Version as i have the Updated Decals, Resin upgrade pack as well, but was always a little Hesitant to start as i wasn't sure how to light the windows as You Said they are Small.
But thanks to your Video Tutorial i can now Hopefully make a start.
I was surprised myself how fast and easy it was to scrape the paint off the window ports.
The old days were the best days, watching you build rekindled my modeling spirit! Can't wait to see this build!!
Hey Boyd, I have watched your builds for years now and I am always amazed at your work. Just so you know there is a couple of errors that you might want to correct on the top saucer of this kit. If you look at where the starboard marker lights are, then count up 3 decks you will see a group of windows, these are completly missing on the port side. Also I think there are ment to be 5 ten forward windows, on the kit there are only 2 very undersized windows. The last error on this kit that i have noticed is if you imagine a line going from the forward port RCS thruster to the centre of the bridge dome, count up 5 decks and there is 2 windows (on the right hand side of this imaginary line) that again are not replicated on the starboard side. I hope this helps, if its not to late. Best wishes from England UK
Thanks for the info, I'm just going to build it as is and keep it a simple and easy build. There are plenty of examples out there of perfectly done models to see.
Hello sir, from Los Angeles. Long time Star Trek afficianaodo/nerd here. Your attention to detail is remarkable. In the model railroading community It might be called "rivet counting"...not a critique Well spotted!
@@captaind6178 From one nerdy rivet counter to another. Symmetry in a starship is important, for me anyway. Unfortunately thats why the millennium falcon always triggers my OCD 😄 That is until I discovered that the ship was originaly designed by ILM to fly with a rotating cockpit and vertically (on its side), it would still be asymmetric though on it's left and right sides 🙃 Anyway the Enterprise E is a beautiful ship, it's a shame AMT missed these mistakes on this kit. Have a great day sir.
I drilled out all those windows before and it was a nightmare. I spent as much on drill bits as I did on the kit! How are you planning on accurizing the deflector dish trench?
A note on the bussards: you probably know the digital version had different looking collectors, but there's a really good shot in First Contact (the escape pod sequence) that lets you see the light pattern on the physical model. I couldn't nail the "rotating mylar" effect as seen on the refit and Voyager warp cores, but the pulsing LEDs look great for the main effect. And the longer you leave them on the more out of sync they get and look better
I feel your pain with drilling out hundreds of tiny windows, done it many times myself. I'm glad to avoid it in this case. Not gonna worry about modifying anything on the kit. It's just an out of the box build.
Fantastic as ever, Boyd. Damn, I really wish I could buy one of these from you. The E is my favorite.
Sir, you're videos are extremely informative. I've learned so many tricks from watching you. I do have a question though. Could you please share what LEDs you use? I see a lot of "inexpensive" tape/strips on eBay, but I'm concerned they won't last. Thanks again, and best regards.
Hello Boyd...about half way into THIS video and so far? We are on the same page. I just "finished", although never done, a 1/48 Revell Zero, I call it "shake and bake" but? I gave it love with a nice paint job. The is to accompany my 1/18 Agora parts-works Zero...just waiting for the final Pack 12 and the last stages of the build. Meanwhile Agora Jaguar and Titanic are in progress ..
I have heard of this technique being used, but never seen the results. After seeing how good it looks I will used it.
Mmmmm space doughnuts.
Great job! Your work and kind of doing/solving things i very inspiring.
I'm working on the E myself. I was afraid that the color of the plastic would influence the color of the LEDs, so I drilled and drilled and drilled ^^ But it looks very good on your model.
I'm going to tell you you something, Boyd about using toothpicks or cocktail sticks as they say in the UK? Painting canopies on 1/48 scale models, as example. I just used a technique, HAND painted a canopy on my 1/48 Mitsubishi Zero...and then, with a magnifier used a toothpick to clean up the edges...it worked really well.
The missus got me one for my Christmas and just ordered the Photoetch from Gerry at HDA. I have the Acreation Aztecs (they were sent to me accidentally instead of Battlestar Aztecs) so going with them.
Better get back to watching your build.
WoW! That worked way better than I would have thought after seeing all the black you were shooting on the model. After drilling all the windows from the dark grey plastic NX-01 (1:1000) I'm going to try this on the white plastic refit version. Thanks so much. I always learn something watching these videos.
I didn't light my kit. What I did with the windows was color them with florescent yellow. For the nacelles and impulse engine I used florescent blue and red. Everything lights up nice under black light. I do like what you suggested here though.
Wow! If you listen carefully you can hear all the people who drilled out the windows in their kit (including me) weeping gently!!!😃😃 Your build videos are always worth watching!
Hah, thats funny but actually not so funny ;)
I got this model kit but it's in a different box, same 1400 scale and amt, but mine looks more yellowish tint to the plastic. Is it my lighting? Or were they made with white plastic before?
Well something I just discovered is this only works with the previous release of the kit that was molded in white. The current release that I just picked up is molded in more of a light tan color, which makes the windows look very yellow when backlit. So just a head's up for everyone.
Im working on this Model right now and the hull color confuses the heck out of me, is it really this white? Because I painted it light gray and its almost white. It seems a more dark grey in the movies, but maybe its just because its darker idk. It probably will also look better once the decals are on I guess
Beautiful work, Boyd. I really love seeing you develop new methods and techniques.🖖
Hi Boyd! Wondering what the temperature of your heatgun is to dry the paint. Looking forward to your build :)
I have this kit and just haven't gotten to it yet. Kinda wish they had decals for the USS Sovereign version though, that way I can have both ships.
Excited to see this build… but before you go with decals check out MaskDesign Star Trek ( they have a TH-cam channel and Facebook page). They have some very nice and detailed mask sets for the Refit & Discovery Enterprise. They are now developing masks for the 1/1400 Enterprise E model.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Boyd! Great tip on a much easier way to do the windows on this kit.
Does the Duplicolor matte clear work well as a finish clear coat for decals as well?
Hey Boyd! 👋 After watching several of your videos I was inspired to begin my own 350 refit build. You do amazing work and I would love a chance to pick your brain sometime. 🖖
I'm about to start this model and I was dreading the drilling. The drilling I did on the Enterprise D didn't go well.
Cool stuff Boyd!
A thought I have had but never tried is to go from the backside of windows. This would be done by trim taping the line of windows then painting the inside with black. After this go back and touch any gaps, if flat paint is used a clear coat would be need. Check the areas with a strong LED light, and bob’s your uncle.
Looks great! I hate cutting holes for the windows. Great time saver.
I hate doing that too. This worked well and the result looks much cleaner than than drilling method.
@@TrekWorks I’m just finishing a NX-01 1/1000 scale and even though there weren’t a lot of holes to drill, I would have hated to drill out and file squares! Have two K’t’inga cruisers (1/350 & 1/537 scales) to work on next. Have lighting and photo etch kits for both.
I built this kit and drilled out all 1400 windows (felt like 1400 LOL) Your way is better. I will be doing this kit again.
Wow!! That works amazingly well! So much easier than drilling or tiny window masks. That's a great way of doing this!
Yep, I had been putting this build off because of all the drilling. This method saved me countless hours of work and it looks a lot cleaner too.
Love the build... Do you have a parts list for all of the lighting you could share?
Thanks Boyd I was dreading having to drill all those windows I will have to try this. Have you heard that Mask Design has a paint masking kit that they just came out with? I went and found that A Creation decal set for mine. I know you said that you were working with HDA model worx on a decal set, looking forward to seeing how that looks. Keep on modelin.
Excellent tip on the windows! I'm going to try this. Thanks!
Excellent technique to try. That is going into the arsenal of the future ... or maybe the model guardian of forever. Great work!
Great idea!
Great tip and testing Boyd! You ROCK!👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I’ve had this kit in my stash for almost five years now. This inspires me to finally get started on it!
Awesome build, what do you use to thin your craft paint with ?
Love how the windows turned out, I have stayed away from this kit because of the windows! What really nice is the cost to do the windows 2-3 bucks can’t beat that
Boyd very cool idea on the windows without drilling them all out thanks for sharing this tip. I have this kit in stock will follow you on this build series have a great day.
Thanks Ken, it worked really well and saved a ton of time vs drilling them all.
Thanks for being the guinea pig Boyd. This makes me look forward to building in a lot more!
Amazing!!! Thanks for the lighting tip.
Say what you want about watching paint dry but man that's satisfying.
That's goin to be kool, can't wait to see the finished product
Going to pull up a chair, crack open a beer (or two) for this one. Going to be good.👍
Hey man what are you doing with my pj bottoms on ??
Great techniques and now I am looking forward to building one of these following your tutorial. I have to stop being scared or getting frustrated with craft paints and practice more with them. The paint looks awesome and the lighting will look fantastic. And, thank you for wanting to use our basic navigation and strobe board for your build!! It is greatly appreciated!!
Can't wait to try out the board, it's perfect for this model.
27:41 You're not going to need a wash on this.
Boyd No one should let the number of windows stop them from building any Star Trek Models doesn't stop me and Personally I Hate the Clear Plastic Models because of how much black paint it takes just to Light Block them so I try to avoid Clear Plastic Models whenever I can I don't mind the the Clear Plastic parts that most Star Trek Models have watching your TH-cam Video's has helped me learn how to work with those part's and right now I'm Building my Very First 1/350 Refit Enterprise Model Boyd I'll post it on the Modelshops Facebook page when I'm done building it.
It didn't take much black paint at all to light block and it would be the same for a clear version. The craft paint is dirt cheap and as I've been showing it's every bit as good as the high dollar supposed hobby paints. The other point of this is that you get a much cleaner look on the edges of the windows vs the drilling method and they stay the correct size and not too big. Time is everything to me and I always look for more efficient ways to get results.
@@TrekWorks I get what you are saying I'm just saying I've gotten to where I don't really mind doing all that Window drilling and that I just don't like those Clear Plastic Model's .... oh mind if I ask did you use the Clear Window Parts back when you built your 1/350 Scale Refit Enterprise !
Very impressive. Love the lit window effect.
W-O-W.. fantastic job.. incredible results.. Great stuff
This looks great, but honestly, I want to see Polar Lights release all versions of the E-E and the E-D in the same size as the TOS/TMP 1/350 scale.
I’d love to see your take on the recent PL Voyager kits, particularly the translucent one.
I'm going to build the new Voyager kit for my son who's a big fan of the series.
Thanks for this video series. I decided to use the Enterprise E as my first lighted model, and I’m using your method on it. Just finished the saucer top and bottom and did about 20 windows as a test and it looks great! I put myself on the waitlist for the HDA Aztec decals, hope to see those available soon.
That's great, glad it's working for you.
Nice to see back to your roots Boyd . One of my Favourites the Enterprise -E next to the refit of course .
Thanks Heath.
brand of paint gun are you using?
What
WOW that looks great. Windows look amazing. Got a few nav and strobe boards coming from Hobby link myself.
They look like great boards especially like the affordable prices. I hope they do very well with them.
Clever idea, Boyd! Looks great!
Back to " Old school " video . Glad to see you in action as always.
Just a comment for the algorithm.
Great video and tips. I can't wait to see the next video in the series!
I suppose it was inevitable that I eventually watched a video of paint drying, but what superb results! I appreciate your use of craft paint, too. I'm taking a step away from flying models for a minute to build some plastic kits on my shelf and I'm stunned by the level of the craft on You Tube. Thanks for the brilliant ideas and inspiration. I won't say I'll tackle this model because I don't think my skills are up to it yet, but I look forward to the rest of the series.
I liked your format of 1) open box, 2)look at plastic, 3) immediately start.
I've used this method for the windows on this kit a few times, works really well and saves a huge amount of time and effort. If you throw enough light inside it passes through the plastic into the very rear windows, near the aft shuttlebay door too. It only works on the white plastic version though, not the more recent greyish kit
NFM!
Thanks buddy :)
Such a great idea, Looks great.
Interesting idea but without primer it seems like it will be difficult to mask without risking liftoff.
I tested doing some masking on another area of the hull, no problem at all. I made sure the parts were clean and scuffed very well with the steel wool.
I just got this kit with the Acreation decals I found on eBay not too long ago, intending to light it, and I was dreading to drill out the windows. I’m glad I watched your video, and now I’m excited to start this kit after I’m done with my current projects.
Great job Boyd, definitely going to use your technique when I build my Enterprise E. Fantastic video.
Amazing as always Boyd. I did a similar thing with the windows on 1/2500 Enterprise D & E. The diffused look you get from the white plastic looks great
Incredible work!
Looks really nice!
Blown away love it
Great video with a really useful and different hint on how do do windows. Thanks Boyd, I will be trying this myself in the future.
Fantastic Idea it makes this stage not so intimidating for us newbies. I was on vacation for this past week and was looking forward to this channel when I got back home! LOL
I picked this up a couple months this ago and was totally intimidated by the drilling the windows out. Thanks to you I think I'm ready to try!
The details really Pop now, looking forward to the next update