Wow. Can't wait to see this conversion. I just fixed one that the drain cord heater fried up and I had to fish it out. Good job Guru and hopefully this repair will help us new guys out of a jam if needed.
Thanks so much looking forward to part 2 . Your videos have really help me transition from just heating and air to refrigeration. I watch your videos at least 10 times a week thanks for what you do .
Ranco ETC-111 to the rescue! I buy them by the gross when they go on sale at the supply house. Keep them on the truck for just such an occasion along with a couple of Johnson 421's. Give her the old Gundy Dave!
I run into a lot of sensor issues, too. The P-1 is chronic. York makes a Coleman copy of a Carrier RTU that uses sensors strapped to the suction line, and a failure WILL shut down the unit. Apparently, all of the SSE boards use these sensors, and they are not durable.
I can't wait to see the next video. I am not sold on all these electronic gizmos to control equipment. The mechanical controls worked fine back in the day. KISS!
Those sensors are quite cheap, I keep three or four of each type on the truck. Those electronic controllers can have some odd failure modes, sometimes the software goes screwy. Had a few where they have reprogramed themselves from electric to hot gas defrost. If theres any doubt I fit a new one. I should do a vid of the ones I keep on the truck. Having said that, you can't go far wrong with some mechanical stats etc.
most of the ones i have seen had the same problem,got the info on the controler change 1 setting and done.hope it helps.it cuts off the heater thinking is defrosted.
Hi Dave in brazil we dont use mechanical stuf any more, we use a digital controler, the brand is Fullgauge controls This controller is very hard to break, i know this brand they have dealer in USA. Sorry for my english they hás a long time i have bean in Califórnia.
The Ranco ETC111000 is good but what are your thoughts on white Rodgers Emerson 16E09-101? I know there is different features on the white Rodgers over the ranco.
It could be the coil temperature thermistor that's causing the problem. If it's reading high, then it would act like a typical termination t'stat and terminate the defrost immediately after you initiate it. I also had one that this thermistor was installed too close to the pan heater and would terminate within a few minutes of initiation.
I think danfoss is the issue. The manufacturers love danfoss bc cheapest price on controls. Major problem with danfoss is troubleshooting. If you ever work on a true cooler made for coke, they have a controller with a sensor looking for someone to walk by the unit to actually set a schedule to turn the unit on and off by occupancy. Some crazy shit. I like your thinking, keep it simple. You will need a 3 wire and heater limit
Hey man thanks for your videos helping me alot transition from hvac to refrigeration. Im working on the same unit as you are here i notice the two yellow small wire are loose . I think they go next to the the blue one on terminal 21 -22 . How do you have them connect it , are they over lapping from 22-23 . Blue and yellow on 22 and only yellow on 23. Or the two yellow wires on 23 by them self? Would apreciate the help thanks.
I have true t49f the display screen read off. Had to change the controller to get it to turn back on and back working, but now won't freeze temp stays at 70 degrees. Been running for 12hrs. Do you have any suggestions.
So much to check. Is compressor running? Is condenser fan running? Do you have proper refrigerant charge? In door fans won’t run until evaporator is cold enough. ****
HELP please working on same unit model GDM-49-HC-TSL01 COMPRESSOR turn on for 10 seconds and cut off its puling.12 amps and data plate are 8,5 amps what can i do thank you
the temperature probe (thermistor) and whatever else they want to call them, go bad often on all appliances that use them, like "home" refrigerators and freezers, they' usually have 3, one for fridge side, one for freezer and one for freezer coil defrost. it's very often one or both in the freezer ;) that is when the relays on the board haven't cooked and quit defrosting. now they've more or less moved the same junk to commercial refer... the mechanical stuff fails also, it's been cheaped out on (chinesium metallurgy).
could add a 24 volt transformer and 24v coil contactor to bottom and use the existing "thermistor wiring" to feed the 24v through the mechanical t-stat up in top of cabinet. have the timer make/break the transformer feed, so the compressor load is on the contactor only. costs more due to transformer, sub. a 24v coil contactor instead of 120v/etc. coil. of course make sure to label it for the next sucker :))
Mate in Australiai do the opposite. rip out old mechanical clocks and thermostats and install digital controllers and sensors. I use carel so much more reliable! I need to ask you why is it so hard for Americans to use digital?? Been digital in Australia for at least 15 years
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C as long as no load goes through the controller they last. Ideally you want your heaters controlled by a contactor and cooling controlled by LL solenoid. I agree with the evap sensors failing though I change them all the time. Love you videos by the way! Keep em coming mate
are those controllers no?? they are only protection for the electronics..... it might be that your not capable of installing electronics? for installs and services ... Electronic timers and thermostats? door limit switches.
I repair electronics and "tear apart" failed devices to see why they failed. I rarely repair appliance/hvac/others boards much anymore, it's just not cost worthy. the materials and time spent cost more than new boards. the obsolete stuff with replacement is a different story or if they've replaced it numerous times with exact same exact failure, then I'll modify or repair with better components ;)
Wow, only a 4 Year old Freezer and numerous issues with the electronics allready. Freezing temperatures , moisture all enemys of electronics and sensors. i Guess thier sensors are cheap crap , That sucks ! just out of warranty by 1 year , of course. Yea, i totally agree with u dave , Go with the old Reliable ! Mechanical clock with a Etc should be nice with a contactor. i Have Not worked on any of these new trues with the digital yet. Thanks for the Run through ! at Least they are consistant and that pink wire is still heater amps. i think your gonna need a 3 wire defrost termination switch too & a Heater limit safety. That should make a good video Converting back to old reliable. i Cant Wait to see this Video , it should be good !
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. The heater limit is in there. The 3 wire is not. I’m not installing one. The customer only wants this box to get to 20 degrees. So it will be ok. I’m thinking 4 - 20 min defrosts.
@@OcRefrig thanks foor the reply. i wish i need this years ago before we blew 4 grand on a T-49G true double door glass cooler brand new. the cooler system hasnt failed, but half the LED lights dont work now. the temp controller failed nad had to get that replaced. do you know much about comecial dishwashers?is Moyer Diebel a good brand? looking at a 501HT or a 383HT.
Wow. Can't wait to see this conversion. I just fixed one that the drain cord heater fried up and I had to fish it out. Good job Guru and hopefully this repair will help us new guys out of a jam if needed.
Thanks so much looking forward to part 2 . Your videos have really help me transition from just heating and air to refrigeration. I watch your videos at least 10 times a week thanks for what you do .
fedboy601 thanks for watching
Ranco ETC-111 to the rescue! I buy them by the gross when they go on sale at the supply house. Keep them on the truck for just such an occasion along with a couple of Johnson 421's. Give her the old Gundy Dave!
Excellent Dave can’t wait for it 👍👍👍
I run into a lot of sensor issues, too. The P-1 is chronic.
York makes a Coleman copy of a Carrier RTU that uses sensors strapped to the suction line, and a failure WILL shut down the unit. Apparently, all of the SSE boards use these sensors, and they are not durable.
can't wait bro thanks again
That will be a great video
I can't wait to see the next video. I am not sold on all these electronic gizmos to control equipment. The mechanical controls worked fine back in the day. KISS!
Those sensors are quite cheap, I keep three or four of each type on the truck.
Those electronic controllers can have some odd failure modes, sometimes the software goes screwy. Had a few where they have reprogramed themselves from electric to hot gas defrost. If theres any doubt I fit a new one. I should do a vid of the ones I keep on the truck.
Having said that, you can't go far wrong with some mechanical stats etc.
Those are junk👍 Had to do the same thing to one at an IHOP.
Cool Wale!!
Yeah, please show the details of the wiring. Going to be interesting.
I like the KE2+defrost over the ranco ETC. Seems we’ve been having to convert from OEM lately due to failures like this.
most of the ones i have seen had the same problem,got the info on the controler change 1 setting and done.hope it helps.it cuts off the heater thinking is defrosted.
ya giver her "Tha Old School"
Nice video Dave! Are those whale sharks at the end? They are awesome! Crazy to be that close!
Hi Dave in brazil we dont use mechanical stuf any more, we use a digital controler, the brand is Fullgauge controls This controller is very hard to break, i know this brand they have dealer in USA. Sorry for my english they hás a long time i have bean in Califórnia.
Need help with the parameter setting - SPL,SP, SPH on this exact T-49F unit...
The Ranco ETC111000 is good but what are your thoughts on white Rodgers Emerson 16E09-101? I know there is different features on the white Rodgers over the ranco.
had to do same thing on a freezer what a mess of chasing wires
thats it dave...show em old school ! 👍
kingofthecrease30 we will see. As long as the customer is happy it’s all good.
That is right. When I have these units in Fam Doll stores, it's OEM all the way. No conversions. So, yours will be a vicarious pleasure.
My two door t49 freezer just runs 24-7…..
How ironic there is a single door true that I work on that has had several evap probe issues, I thought I was going crazy!
It could be the coil temperature thermistor that's causing the problem. If it's reading high, then it would act like a typical termination t'stat and terminate the defrost immediately after you initiate it. I also had one that this thermistor was installed too close to the pan heater and would terminate within a few minutes of initiation.
icemeister pretty sure it’s the evap sensor
You da man, ice. -TB
What is the resistance on those thermistors?
I think danfoss is the issue. The manufacturers love danfoss bc cheapest price on controls. Major problem with danfoss is troubleshooting.
If you ever work on a true cooler made for coke, they have a controller with a sensor looking for someone to walk by the unit to actually set a schedule to turn the unit on and off by occupancy. Some crazy shit.
I like your thinking, keep it simple. You will need a 3 wire and heater limit
Hey man thanks for your videos helping me alot transition from hvac to refrigeration. Im working on the same unit as you are here i notice the two yellow small wire are loose . I think they go next to the the blue one on terminal 21 -22 . How do you have them connect it , are they over lapping from 22-23 . Blue and yellow on 22 and only yellow on 23. Or the two yellow wires on 23 by them self? Would apreciate the help thanks.
I can’t remember it’s been so long. True has great customer support on line and you can call tech support
800-325-6152
You said it Dave........... ELECTRONIC GARBAGE. Back to old school.
LOL that whale shark. I would have shit myself.
i got one at a bk that I'm freakin over
I have true t49f the display screen read off. Had to change the controller to get it to turn back on and back working, but now won't freeze temp stays at 70 degrees. Been running for 12hrs. Do you have any suggestions.
So much to check.
Is compressor running?
Is condenser fan running?
Do you have proper refrigerant charge?
In door fans won’t run until evaporator is cold enough. ****
HELP please working on same unit model GDM-49-HC-TSL01 COMPRESSOR turn on for 10 seconds and cut off its puling.12 amps and data plate are 8,5 amps what can i do thank you
find out whats turning off, is it power to compressor? is it the compressor overload?
I pull out a a421 and a defrost timer
I have one that won't go into manual defrost
would a danfoss ERC213 be a good replacment?
geo you could.
I have a different problem no ice but seems like it’s going on defrost too much
Maybe digital controller?
David Duda check evap probe.
the temperature probe (thermistor) and whatever else they want to call them, go bad often on all appliances that use them, like "home" refrigerators and freezers, they' usually have 3, one for fridge side, one for freezer and one for freezer coil defrost. it's very often one or both in the freezer ;) that is when the relays on the board haven't cooked and quit defrosting.
now they've more or less moved the same junk to commercial refer...
the mechanical stuff fails also, it's been cheaped out on (chinesium metallurgy).
could add a 24 volt transformer and 24v coil contactor to bottom and use the existing "thermistor wiring" to feed the 24v through the mechanical t-stat up in top of cabinet. have the timer make/break the transformer feed, so the compressor load is on the contactor only.
costs more due to transformer, sub. a 24v coil contactor instead of 120v/etc. coil. of course make sure to label it for the next sucker :))
throttle bottle not a bad idea but for this application the etc will work.
Defrost parametres were ok?
Did he ever replay with an answer on the parameter for this freezer...
Maybe just put new ones in?
David Duda 👍
Mate in Australiai do the opposite. rip out old mechanical clocks and thermostats and install digital controllers and sensors. I use carel so much more reliable! I need to ask you why is it so hard for Americans to use digital?? Been digital in Australia for at least 15 years
Andrew Mattas it’s not hard at all. To many failures here. With mechanical it lasts and has few break downs. Those evap sensors fail all the time.
Can it be you guys down under use 230v usually last longer.
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C as long as no load goes through the controller they last. Ideally you want your heaters controlled by a contactor and cooling controlled by LL solenoid. I agree with the evap sensors failing though I change them all the time. Love you videos by the way! Keep em coming mate
My eyes are getting so bad as I get older it's such a nuisance.
i',m in toronto using old mechanical is wack.. only digital just put relays or contractors.. only way is forward and that's digital..
You do it your way I’ll do it my way.
relays and contactors, so still using "analog" control over the power, in the end anyway :)))
are those controllers no?? they are only protection for the electronics..... it might be that your not capable of installing electronics? for installs and services ... Electronic timers and thermostats? door limit switches.
I repair electronics and "tear apart" failed devices to see why they failed. I rarely repair appliance/hvac/others boards much anymore, it's just not cost worthy. the materials and time spent cost more than new boards.
the obsolete stuff with replacement is a different story or if they've replaced it numerous times with exact same exact failure, then I'll modify or repair with better components ;)
No te entiendo ni mierda por qué no habló inglés
Wow, only a 4 Year old Freezer and numerous issues with the electronics allready. Freezing temperatures , moisture all enemys of electronics and sensors. i Guess thier sensors are cheap crap , That sucks ! just out of warranty by 1 year , of course. Yea, i totally agree with u dave , Go with the old Reliable ! Mechanical clock with a Etc should be nice with a contactor. i Have Not worked on any of these new trues with the digital yet.
Thanks for the Run through !
at Least they are consistant and that pink wire is still heater amps.
i think your gonna need a 3 wire defrost termination switch too & a Heater limit safety.
That should make a good video Converting back to old reliable. i Cant Wait to see this Video , it should be good !
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. The heater limit is in there. The 3 wire is not. I’m not installing one. The customer only wants this box to get to 20 degrees. So it will be ok. I’m thinking 4 - 20 min defrosts.
whats a good brand for commercial fridge or freezer
@@randomrazr
Best - Traulsen
Middle - Beverage air, delfield , continental.
Medium low - True.
@@OcRefrig thanks foor the reply. i wish i need this years ago before we blew 4 grand on a T-49G true double door glass cooler brand new. the cooler system hasnt failed, but half the LED lights dont work now. the temp controller failed nad had to get that replaced.
do you know much about comecial dishwashers?is Moyer Diebel a good brand? looking at a 501HT or a 383HT.