I love that you love what you do and case enough to go back and adit your thoughts and what you are doing. It really helps us dreamers out. Takes away a bit of the mysticism and leaves us with now you need experience and talent.
You sir ARE a credit to the craft!! I know that the project was supposed to be a serpent,but at the end of the video,when you flipped it over, it could have been a steel line board! BEAUTIFUL,SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL!!
I am loving all the explaination and detail you're putting into making unique billets. A lot of channels show single pattern damscus being turned into blades, but the artistry of welding different layers of damascus and flat irons into a billet is beautiful. It's amazing what a little creativity and patience can create.
That has to be the most beautiful patterns I've seen yet. I've never forged anything but I'm wanting to learn and this one has given my motivation a jump start. Keep up the good work!!!
That billet is amazing, you've definitely have your ebb and flow going on building Damascus! With the larger pieces of wrought iron, you can really see some great pattern in it as well. Love the "star" or "cross" on parts of the Damascus, it really is a piece of art! Can't wait for part 2!
Thank you Phillip I think I put a little more effort into this one and it was a little more rewarding, the pattern is better but I'm wondering what it would look like if I did 1000 layers of Damascus, i think I might have to do a video on that as soon and see how it comes out ;o) take care my friend.
BIG DOG FORGE Awesome!!! 1,000 layer Damascus Challenge is ON!!!! As we have talked before about 1,000 layers it will be really interesting. For one, that's how it was done in Asia long ago. It will also be interesting to see how hard the steel will get. It's definitely gonna be an EPIC build!!! If ya have any left overs, I'd love a small flattened piece to try and copy a folding knife blade or a small EDC knife. The grain structure and the "molecules" wonder if making 1,000 layers might even weaken the billet. I'm definitely looking forward to it. One thing I'm positive is that you ARE the man that can do it!!! No denying the skill and workmanship in Big Dog Forge!!! Have a great week! I'll search and watch some historical Asia blade smith videos and articles and if I find anything I'll send ya the info!
..can't hardly wait for Part 2 !! When you had the blade under the hammer you could just about see the Serpent slithering across the hot blank. Good Job Tim!!...
Thanks Ol James part2 will be out on Friday night I hope you get a chance to check it out this one's been a lot of fun, thanks for checking out the video and take care my friend.
Tim as always thank you for your time and effort on your videos this one was a blast to watch great creativity on it learned a ton cannot wait for part two thanks again Tim
Part 2 is coming out on Friday night, the funny thing is I had a piece of cable in my hand thinking about that for about 1/2 hour and decided I needed to make some Damascus to do the build properly but I'm definitely going to revisit the cable when I do this again, and yes it will be a video. Thanks for taking the time to check it out to do appreciate it and take care.
awesome method, this seems very similar to how i understand Celtic leaf blades where made except youd have 3 equal 'rods' (usual cast about 2 or 3 foot long pretty thin like 1/2 a inch or so across), i assume flat sided/roughly square, often with a milder steel for middle rod) wired together that youd heat up and fit into a nook then twist them and when youd twisted them enough they would have a small swelling near nook end/ basis of the leaf blade shape. super late comment but had to :) (from a armature thats been trying to figure out how they used to make such long carbon nano strings in ancient Damascus ext) also have you considered instead of cutting into billet, like i see everyone do, ive read of rings connected to wall or anvil that youd shove hot billet 1/2 way thru then bend it then finish fold on anvil (that way i assume your breaking less carbon nano tubes & steel will be more flexible/stronger) i saw a video you did on making rusty Damascus and a indian method for imitation damascus and their talk of twisting then folding (& adding free carbon to fill out nano tubes) with cast iron flux & iron oxide(they didnt specify but it could well have been in a wall/anvil mounted ring) seemed very similar to the celtic method also... (it would also give a nice continual pattern end to end of billet aesthetically speaking) but i think somewhere in the fact all these methods where similar lies trick to basically chemically engineering steel with just some coal/carbon some heat & iron prepared in various ways, but i feel very much its in the method not the materials, i dotn think they had some special element or mineral we have forgotten we can use i think we are just missing the method & using soem differnt elements because modern equipment encourages us to do it differently (cutting instead of ring bending, borax instead of pig iron avoiding twisting to maximise surface area rather then using vallys bends cause to carry pig iron/carbon deep into core of steel with each bend/refresh the carbon nanostrings in steel as you forge it ext)
-Tim Before I do some of my welds I soak the cold bilit in diesel fuel, then flux cold ,than bring up to an orange then scurb and flux than bring up to heat and go.The diesel fuel seems to hold the flux and it flashes a little bit but thenyour off to the races. Again thanks, Martin Moldovan at M/ S Blacksmithing and Blades
Well done! There is a direct mathematical correlation between the depth and width of the notches on either side of the center bar and how far the bar will stretch which also dictates the wave-length, if you will, of the serpent. It's pretty much the Golden Ratio, so pretty easy work with. I like the use of a V-fuller, truly the Norse smiths would not have wasted material in cutting away at the bars, which is why other patterns have been so problematic in re-creating in an authentic manner. Cheers.
Thank you, I figured there must be some sort of formula to work that out I guess the variables would be the density of the material and the heat at which are forging but I would love to see the math on this it would give me a great starting point for the next go around. Thank you so much for checking out the video and I do appreciate the comment, good information, take care and thanks again
Yes yes YES!!! Love it. The smithing blood is boiling. Time to go forge. Hopefully my ceramic wool will be in soon, so I can reline my welding forge. Then on to my hauswehr project.
Hello Ernest I've been doing so much forge welding lately I need to relined mine as well, the hauswehr project sounds interesting when you're finished you should e-mail me a picture I would love to see it. Thanks for watching and take care.
Wow, that is quite the billet! 😮. Such a beautiful pattern, with the nice and tight twist (always so satisfying to watch) and the character in that wrought is off the charts! What an interesting idea for the snake technique. I was a little worried at first that the iron would be too much softer than the carbon steel while forging and drawing it out, that the iron would "squish" flat and the twisted core would simply stretch out and remain straight, but you pulled it off pretty well! I wasn't 'quite' able to follow you while you were describing the layout of the final stack and how it related to the spine and edge. I know you said we'll see what you come up with in part two, but if you wouldn't have brought it up I would've just figured the other bar of twist damascus in the billet would have become the edge. Either way, whatever your plan is I sure am curious and excited to see how it all turns out! Beautiful job forging as always and thanks for taking this project on and sharing it with us. 🙂
Thanks brother I appreciate the kind words and part will be out on Friday night I hope you can check it out. Thanks for stopping by and I'll talk to you soon, take care of yourself.
Tim, this is looking very interesting. Not sure about the wrought iron for the blade edge. Have a feeling you are going to have a problem holding an edge with that. We will see. Otherwise, this is a beautiful billet. Until part 2, I wish you a great day.
Thanks Philip part2 will be out on Friday night. I'm not sure about the wrought iron myself but I have a plan. Thanks for watching my friend I'll talk to you soon.
Thank you Vernon I appreciate that, part 2 will be out on Friday night, and I know what you mean I get caught up in videos myself. Thanks for checking it out and take care.
BIG DOG FORGE hey Tim, no, i havent yet, funds are super tight right now, so once i get everything caught up, ill be able to spend some money on the forge. i feel so bad, its going on 3 weeks since ive been in my shop. doesnt help that my back is buggered up right now either... im a trainwreck haha. take care Tim! i forge vicariously through your videos
Try some 6010 or 6011 rod for your tack welds you won't have to break the slag on the tip to start a new weld. Looks like you have some soggy 7018 giving you that tough start.
When you start to finish the blade more I recommend you don't make the thickness of the blade much over 1/4 of an inch because even with perfect welds and heat cycles it is likely to crack between the Damascus and wrought iron because they are both cooling at different speeds so if you make it thinner that will help with that
Thanks for the info I do appreciate it, and I actually used this comment in my preparation during the filming of part 2, you may have saved the day. Thanks for watching and take care.
Sir great video Thankyou. I have a question about damascus. I'm reading a book and the author said it is easier to forge damascus with a blacksmiths roller. Have you used one and what are your thoughts about using one. It would be an easy build so I'm thinking about building one. Thanks for your insights.
-Tim All I can say is Wow,I have a need to try this in a similar way except I dont have a powerhammer or press .So do you think it can be done by hand without a striker and I would need to substitute the iron for another metal hmm. what do you think could be useded and still have a contrast? Perhaps RR spikes ? I really appreciate your taking this project on it is already an amazing piece and she is far from done. I will be waiting for the second half or maybe even a third. She is going to be amazing I can only hope for a piece like this someday. Thanks again, Martin Moldovan at M/ S Blacksmithing and Blades
Hi Shan - this could definitely be done by hand and by a single person it would obviously be a lot more time consuming and probably would require a blacksmiths helper meaning a top fuller that attaches to the anvil like a spring fuller to prepare the wrought iron or just a hearty hole bottom fuller that you could hammer the iron down onto, but the process itself could certainly be done by hand and by one person, and yes railroad spikes would work perfectly in this application I think it would give you an awesome contrast. Thanks for the kind words and part 2 will be out on Friday night. Thanks and I'll talk to you soon.
Keep the tradition alive... ( no electric welding). Good man. In der Klinge lebt ein blutiger Wurm, aber am Stichblatt wirft die Natter den Schweif-- (EDDA)
@@BIGDOGFORGE "Wurm" is am old german synonym for : snake or writhing dragon. The old believed in such bloody worms, living in the blade, eager to drink the blood of the opponents. (part of an EDDA verse, 8.-12. century). .. aber am Stichblatt wirft die Natter den Schweif: ... near the guard ( of t. sword), the asp wags the ( or her ) tail... this is an paraphrase to clarify that the creatures which should be in the blade, are alive and aggressive. I hope, that explais a lot. If you have any further question, feel free to contact me and i beg your pardon for my moderat english. With kind regards Wurmbunt
BIG DOG FORGE I made my with Brian Brazeal (this is his original design). I made a 3 lb and 4 lb with him. Best hammers you can use. The rounding hammer design gives you so many features to forge with. The square sides edges all but replace a cross pien and the square side face is perfect for planishing. The round side's face really move metal too. I love em'.
ZombieNinjaPitbull folding is easier sometimes but its harder to clean the steel and can cause more issues like delaminations. cutting and stacking you need to be sure everything is square and all but its easier to clean but you lose material.
Yeah it's amazing how smiths hundreds of years ago did this true artistry. Coming out great I'm wondering how u are going to do the edge perhaps carborozation ?
Hello Cal good to hear from you my friend, it will all be explained in part 2 which will be out on Friday night, I hope you get the chance to check it out. Take care and be safe.
sorry but questions flood my curious brain ..... I'll only ask one .... you speak about an ancient Viking blacksmith holding things together tightly .... how do you imagine ?????
Hello Roy, I think you're referring to the plasma cutter, it uses an electric arc two super heat compressed air, this creates a cutting torch affect to burn through metal with almost pinpoint accuracy. Hope that was helpful thanks for tuning in.
I wonder how they made wire a thousand years ago. For some reason I figured it was a modern invention, but then I realized chains are made of wire. Duh. I'm wondering if there isn't a way to do it without wires, though. Like welding one end together while the other end, bound by a presumably flammable material, stayed out of the forge, and then welding the remainder.
Emil Sørensen the Japanese use wet paper and clay to wrap it then heat it before striking to seal the weld. This keeps out air to prevent oxidation as well a holding the pieces together. So the don't scatter in the forge.
When it's used metal it's always a guessing game. But a spark test on the grinder is usually a pretty good indicator, if you've never seen anyone do a spark test before you should check out Walter sorrels on YT he did an awesome video on spark testing. Other than that it's pretty much an educated guess, cross your fingers and hope for the best. I hope this was helpful, Thanks for tuning in take care.
It's hard to come by in my area, in the past I've purchased it off Ebay but it's quite expensive, if you go to some of the blacksmith forums online there several Smith's around the country who have easier access and will pass it along and a much lower cost and sometimes just for the cost of shipping you just have to do little networking but I find it's worth it. I hope that helps and thank you for checking out the video, have a good one
FYI: You have every right to use copyrighted imagery or video in your videos under the *Fair Use* clause of copyright law... as long as you don't claim it to be your own and give props to the owner (mention who made it and where you got it) you are totally in the clear. You're especially good if the material you present relates to the video it's in... images of examples of a blade in a video of you recreating said blade you're golden... a clip of the end of the 1985 San Marino Grand Prix (which you can find on TH-cam), while hilarious as *everyone* runs out of fuel, in a blacksmithing video has a much weaker claim toward *Fair Use.*
I love that you love what you do and case enough to go back and adit your thoughts and what you are doing. It really helps us dreamers out. Takes away a bit of the mysticism and leaves us with now you need experience and talent.
Awesome, 100% artistry, 100% engineering, 200% awesomeness
Thanks Sean. Thanks for watching brother, take care of yourself.
You sir ARE a credit to the craft!!
I know that the project was supposed to be a serpent,but at the end of the video,when you flipped it over,
it could have been a steel line board! BEAUTIFUL,SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL!!
I am loving all the explaination and detail you're putting into making unique billets. A lot of channels show single pattern damscus being turned into blades, but the artistry of welding different layers of damascus and flat irons into a billet is beautiful. It's amazing what a little creativity and patience can create.
Yet another exciting build ! Look forward to part 2! Thanks again for sharing this Tim.
You're welcome Mark, and thanks for checking it out take care.
What a Nice Job! Love Watching ya and listening to you tell as you go!! Its Been a Pleasure & Thank you!
That has to be the most beautiful patterns I've seen yet. I've never forged anything but I'm wanting to learn and this one has given my motivation a jump start. Keep up the good work!!!
Pññ
Lop
That billet is amazing, you've definitely have your ebb and flow going on building Damascus! With the larger pieces of wrought iron, you can really see some great pattern in it as well. Love the "star" or "cross" on parts of the Damascus, it really is a piece of art!
Can't wait for part 2!
Thank you Phillip I think I put a little more effort into this one and it was a little more rewarding, the pattern is better but I'm wondering what it would look like if I did 1000 layers of Damascus, i think I might have to do a video on that as soon and see how it comes out ;o) take care my friend.
BIG DOG FORGE Awesome!!! 1,000 layer Damascus Challenge is ON!!!!
As we have talked before about 1,000 layers it will be really interesting. For one, that's how it was done in Asia long ago. It will also be interesting to see how hard the steel will get. It's definitely gonna be an EPIC build!!! If ya have any left overs, I'd love a small flattened piece to try and copy a folding knife blade or a small EDC knife.
The grain structure and the "molecules" wonder if making 1,000 layers might even weaken the billet. I'm definitely looking forward to it.
One thing I'm positive is that you ARE the man that can do it!!! No denying the skill and workmanship in Big Dog Forge!!!
Have a great week!
I'll search and watch some historical Asia blade smith videos and articles and if I find anything I'll send ya the info!
Thanks Phillip I'm looking forward to it. Anything you can send would be a great help. Take care talk to you soon
..can't hardly wait for Part 2 !! When you had the blade under the hammer you could just about see the Serpent slithering across the hot blank. Good Job Tim!!...
Thanks Ol James part2 will be out on Friday night I hope you get a chance to check it out this one's been a lot of fun, thanks for checking out the video and take care my friend.
Since i have discovered your channel i have been binge watching your videos. You do great work and your explanations are that of a good insructor.
Tim as always thank you for your time and effort on your videos this one was a blast to watch great creativity on it learned a ton cannot wait for part two thanks again Tim
Thank you Rick I appreciate the kind words, part2 will be out on Friday night hope to see you there. Take care my friend and thanks for watching.
Great video, I think a cable damascus core would give the snake some real scales, can't wait for part two!!
Part 2 is coming out on Friday night, the funny thing is I had a piece of cable in my hand thinking about that for about 1/2 hour and decided I needed to make some Damascus to do the build properly but I'm definitely going to revisit the cable when I do this again, and yes it will be a video. Thanks for taking the time to check it out to do appreciate it and take care.
Gorgeous. Looking forward to part two.
Thanks part 2 will be out on Friday night, I hope you get a chance to check it out. Thanks for watching take care.
Tim!Way to hang in there with all the forge welding. Can't wait to see the blade. Big Time Kudos!!
awesome method,
this seems very similar to how i understand Celtic leaf blades where made except youd have 3 equal 'rods' (usual cast about 2 or 3 foot long pretty thin like 1/2 a inch or so across), i assume flat sided/roughly square, often with a milder steel for middle rod) wired together that youd heat up and fit into a nook then twist them and when youd twisted them enough they would have a small swelling near nook end/ basis of the leaf blade shape.
super late comment but had to :) (from a armature thats been trying to figure out how they used to make such long carbon nano strings in ancient Damascus ext)
also have you considered instead of cutting into billet, like i see everyone do,
ive read of rings connected to wall or anvil that youd shove hot billet 1/2 way thru then bend it then finish fold on anvil (that way i assume your breaking less carbon nano tubes & steel will be more flexible/stronger) i saw a video you did on making rusty Damascus and a indian method for imitation damascus and their talk of twisting then folding (& adding free carbon to fill out nano tubes) with cast iron flux & iron oxide(they didnt specify but it could well have been in a wall/anvil mounted ring) seemed very similar to the celtic method also...
(it would also give a nice continual pattern end to end of billet aesthetically speaking) but i think somewhere in the fact all these methods where similar lies trick to basically chemically engineering steel with just some coal/carbon some heat & iron prepared in various ways, but i feel very much its in the method not the materials, i dotn think they had some special element or mineral we have forgotten we can use i think we are just missing the method & using soem differnt elements because modern equipment encourages us to do it differently (cutting instead of ring bending, borax instead of pig iron avoiding twisting to maximise surface area rather then using vallys bends cause to carry pig iron/carbon deep into core of steel with each bend/refresh the carbon nanostrings in steel as you forge it ext)
-Tim
Before I do some of my welds I soak the cold bilit in diesel fuel, then flux cold ,than bring up to an orange then scurb and flux than bring up to heat and go.The diesel fuel seems to hold the flux and it flashes a little bit but thenyour off to the races.
Again thanks, Martin Moldovan at M/ S Blacksmithing and Blades
Tanks Martin I'll have to give that a try some time and see how it works I appreciate the info, and thanks for checking it out, take care and be safe
M&S BLADES seas
Seax
It is a pleasure to watch you work, sir..... my favorite one yet
I love to see pattern welds and this is the first time to see the wire at the begiinning. Very nice
I like all your videos. Thanks for your effort
Absolutely awesome pattern, can't wait to see part 2
Fantastic! Love the Seax!
Beautiful Damascus!
Many thanks!
Well done! There is a direct mathematical correlation between the depth and width of the notches on either side of the center bar and how far the bar will stretch which also dictates the wave-length, if you will, of the serpent. It's pretty much the Golden Ratio, so pretty easy work with.
I like the use of a V-fuller, truly the Norse smiths would not have wasted material in cutting away at the bars, which is why other patterns have been so problematic in re-creating in an authentic manner.
Cheers.
Thank you, I figured there must be some sort of formula to work that out I guess the variables would be the density of the material and the heat at which are forging but I would love to see the math on this it would give me a great starting point for the next go around. Thank you so much for checking out the video and I do appreciate the comment, good information, take care and thanks again
Thank you Tim for all your awesome videos. Please keep em coming!
I like your method of making the waving serpent, no wastage of material seems far more likely a traditional method.
Yes yes YES!!! Love it. The smithing blood is boiling. Time to go forge. Hopefully my ceramic wool will be in soon, so I can reline my welding forge. Then on to my hauswehr project.
Hello Ernest I've been doing so much forge welding lately I need to relined mine as well, the hauswehr project sounds interesting when you're finished you should e-mail me a picture I would love to see it. Thanks for watching and take care.
Wow, that is quite the billet! 😮. Such a beautiful pattern, with the nice and tight twist (always so satisfying to watch) and the character in that wrought is off the charts!
What an interesting idea for the snake technique. I was a little worried at first that the iron would be too much softer than the carbon steel while forging and drawing it out, that the iron would "squish" flat and the twisted core would simply stretch out and remain straight, but you pulled it off pretty well!
I wasn't 'quite' able to follow you while you were describing the layout of the final stack and how it related to the spine and edge. I know you said we'll see what you come up with in part two, but if you wouldn't have brought it up I would've just figured the other bar of twist damascus in the billet would have become the edge. Either way, whatever your plan is I sure am curious and excited to see how it all turns out! Beautiful job forging as always and thanks for taking this project on and sharing it with us. 🙂
Thanks brother I appreciate the kind words and part will be out on Friday night I hope you can check it out. Thanks for stopping by and I'll talk to you soon, take care of yourself.
Nice work Tim, Rowan Taylor has a Seax on his TH-cam channel as well. Looking forward to next part !
Tim, this is looking very interesting. Not sure about the wrought iron for the blade edge. Have a feeling you are going to have a problem holding an edge with that. We will see. Otherwise, this is a beautiful billet. Until part 2, I wish you a great day.
Thanks Philip part2 will be out on Friday night. I'm not sure about the wrought iron myself but I have a plan. Thanks for watching my friend I'll talk to you soon.
pure artistry
Old school for sure.just ran into your site got a lot to catch up on
Thanks for tuning in and checking out the videos. Take care.
Beautiful work, sir. Thank you for the lesson.
very good don't think Id have done it any different that billet came out awsome Can't wait till the next one thanks
Thanks Wade it's been a lot of fun, thanks for checking it out. And thanks for all the kind words take care.
Great video. Best wishes from Poland :).
Wow, I figured I would have to break video into to parts but time flies ya know!
Very interesting! You do some very good work!
Can't wait for part 2
Thank you Vernon I appreciate that, part 2 will be out on Friday night, and I know what you mean I get caught up in videos myself. Thanks for checking it out and take care.
BIG DOG FORGE 👍✅
Cant wait till its done. nice work.
Thanks jay.
wow, that is a beautiful billet Tim, that twisted damascus looks great! cheers!
Thanks analog56x, did you ever get your forger rebuilt? Still waiting on the next video. Thanks for watching my friend take care.
BIG DOG FORGE hey Tim, no, i havent yet, funds are super tight right now, so once i get everything caught up, ill be able to spend some money on the forge. i feel so bad, its going on 3 weeks since ive been in my shop. doesnt help that my back is buggered up right now either... im a trainwreck haha.
take care Tim! i forge vicariously through your videos
I hope you feel better soon my friend, Don't let the walchers get ya. Take care and be safe.
That is great way of doing things..make small knives. Packet knives with the Damascus. Out of throw away junk pieces?
Thanks ,Tim
Tim, I shared this video with a bunch of my knife makers friends. great video!
I really like the pattern..
Thanks Brady I appreciate the support, thanks for the comment and thanks for checking out the video. Have a good one
Great blade it would be very popular on the Goth Circuit. Very impressive.
I know that was a LOT of work, but that was well worth it! Looks freaking amazing so far, can't wait to see the progression.
Ok
Ok
Ll
Wow, absautley beautiful pattern
Try some 6010 or 6011 rod for your tack welds you won't have to break the slag on the tip to start a new weld. Looks like you have some soggy 7018 giving you that tough start.
When you start to finish the blade more I recommend you don't make the thickness of the blade much over 1/4 of an inch because even with perfect welds and heat cycles it is likely to crack between the Damascus and wrought iron because they are both cooling at different speeds so if you make it thinner that will help with that
Thanks for the info I do appreciate it, and I actually used this comment in my preparation during the filming of part 2, you may have saved the day. Thanks for watching and take care.
This is amazing. My son and I really enjoyed your video and have subscribed! keep up the good work!
Thanks Craig I appreciate that, thanks for tuning in take care.
Sir great video Thankyou. I have a question about damascus. I'm reading a book and the author said it is easier to forge damascus with a blacksmiths roller. Have you used one and what are your thoughts about using one. It would be an easy build so I'm thinking about building one. Thanks for your insights.
I have never used one sorry. Thanks for watching.
-Tim
All I can say is Wow,I have a need to try this in a similar way except I dont have a powerhammer or press .So do you think it can be done by hand without a striker and I would need to substitute the iron for another metal hmm. what do you think could be useded and still have a contrast? Perhaps RR spikes ? I really appreciate your taking this project on it is already an amazing piece and she is far from done. I will be waiting for the second half or maybe even a third.
She is going to be amazing I can only hope for a piece like this someday.
Thanks again, Martin Moldovan at M/ S Blacksmithing and Blades
Hi Shan - this could definitely be done by hand and by a single person it would obviously be a lot more time consuming and probably would require a blacksmiths helper meaning a top fuller that attaches to the anvil like a spring fuller to prepare the wrought iron or just a hearty hole bottom fuller that you could hammer the iron down onto, but the process itself could certainly be done by hand and by one person, and yes railroad spikes would work perfectly in this application I think it would give you an awesome contrast. Thanks for the kind words and part 2 will be out on Friday night. Thanks and I'll talk to you soon.
What would happen to the pattern if you put the groves in the iorn against the core steel
Keep the tradition alive... ( no electric welding). Good man.
In der Klinge lebt ein blutiger Wurm, aber am Stichblatt wirft die Natter den Schweif-- (EDDA)
A worm you say?
@@BIGDOGFORGE "Wurm" is am old german synonym for : snake or writhing dragon.
The old believed in such bloody worms, living in the blade, eager to drink the blood of the opponents. (part of an EDDA verse, 8.-12. century).
.. aber am Stichblatt wirft die Natter den Schweif: ... near the guard ( of t. sword), the asp wags the ( or her ) tail... this is an paraphrase to clarify that the creatures which should be in the blade, are alive and aggressive.
I hope, that explais a lot. If you have any further question, feel free to contact me and
i beg your pardon for my moderat english.
With kind regards
Wurmbunt
very cool thank you Sir Just curious no harm. thanks for watching
@@BIGDOGFORGE:It was a pleasure to me.
Well done work,hold on.
Greetings from a bladesmith from the old world.
Great work can't wait for d next vid thanks for sharing m8
Thanks
The hammer you use looks like an Alec Steele hammer is it? Looks great
It is an Alec Steele hammer, and it's one of the best hammers I've ever owned. Thanks for checking out the video.
BIG DOG FORGE great video
BIG DOG FORGE I made my with Brian Brazeal (this is his original design). I made a 3 lb and 4 lb with him. Best hammers you can use. The rounding hammer design gives you so many features to forge with. The square sides edges all but replace a cross pien and the square side face is perfect for planishing. The round side's face really move metal too. I love em'.
Very, very cool.
how big is the difference in folding vs cutting and restacking? i know it will "whorl" at a fold but structurally is it better to fold?
ZombieNinjaPitbull folding is easier sometimes but its harder to clean the steel and can cause more issues like delaminations. cutting and stacking you need to be sure everything is square and all but its easier to clean but you lose material.
very nice work.!!
Thank you very much, and thanks for watching.
Yeah it's amazing how smiths hundreds of years ago did this true artistry. Coming out great I'm wondering how u are going to do the edge perhaps carborozation ?
Hello Cal good to hear from you my friend, it will all be explained in part 2 which will be out on Friday night, I hope you get the chance to check it out. Take care and be safe.
Nice pattern.
VERY COOL
Would like to know where you live, you do outstanding work
sorry but questions flood my curious brain ..... I'll only ask one .... you speak about an ancient Viking blacksmith holding things together tightly .... how do you imagine ?????
Some form of crude wire or iron bands are most likely in my opinion.
Thanks for watching.
Great damascus Tim, your welding is inspiring. Do you use welding glasses when forging at welding temperature?
hi Tim what is that tool called that you cut your band saw blades with
Hello Roy, I think you're referring to the plasma cutter, it uses an electric arc two super heat compressed air, this creates a cutting torch affect to burn through metal with almost pinpoint accuracy. Hope that was helpful thanks for tuning in.
beautiful
Very beautiful
Why you using wrought for the edge
I wonder how they made wire a thousand years ago. For some reason I figured it was a modern invention, but then I realized chains are made of wire. Duh.
I'm wondering if there isn't a way to do it without wires, though. Like welding one end together while the other end, bound by a presumably flammable material, stayed out of the forge, and then welding the remainder.
Apparently they'd just cut strips off a sheet, hammer one end to make it fit through a stone die, then pull on it to make the metal fold in on itself.
Emil Sørensen the Japanese use wet paper and clay to wrap it then heat it before striking to seal the weld. This keeps out air to prevent oxidation as well a holding the pieces together. So the don't scatter in the forge.
How can you tell whether the steel you use is high in carbon?
When it's used metal it's always a guessing game. But a spark test on the grinder is usually a pretty good indicator, if you've never seen anyone do a spark test before you should check out Walter sorrels on YT he did an awesome video on spark testing.
Other than that it's pretty much an educated guess, cross your fingers and hope for the best. I hope this was helpful, Thanks for tuning in take care.
BIG DOG FORGE thank you for being so helpful and I would love to see a great sword come out of the shop
good job
Thank you, and thanks for watching take care.
hello,, nice,, very nice,, thank you,,
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for checking it out. Take care
Where do you get wrought iron?
It's hard to come by in my area, in the past I've purchased it off Ebay but it's quite expensive, if you go to some of the blacksmith forums online there several Smith's around the country who have easier access and will pass it along and a much lower cost and sometimes just for the cost of shipping you just have to do little networking but I find it's worth it. I hope that helps and thank you for checking out the video, have a good one
Very impressive
Thank you very much.
BIG DOG FORGE np your definitely a master of your craft . I started taking up the craft myself . Hope to be at your level someday .
Awesome
Thank you Phillip.
clamps and vices have existed for thousands of years
I think it will accept a sandwich weld of high carbon .kind of a Sanmi serpent seax....just thinking while I am watching again.
Awesome idea but we're going to have to wait and see. Have a good one.
A form of "vulgar" C lamp with a simple screw was used as early as the 3rd century bc,in Asia minor.
Hello Gary thanks for the info this kind of thing fascinates me, the creativity of people through necessity is truly inspiring. Thanks for watching.
you are using the old version of the the modern word for dagger or sword - that is ok with me - I did google for it :)
Wish I had the tools to do this.
All you need is a forge,a hammer, and a grinder.
9:00 WoW
FYI: You have every right to use copyrighted imagery or video in your videos under the *Fair Use* clause of copyright law... as long as you don't claim it to be your own and give props to the owner (mention who made it and where you got it) you are totally in the clear. You're especially good if the material you present relates to the video it's in... images of examples of a blade in a video of you recreating said blade you're golden... a clip of the end of the 1985 San Marino Grand Prix (which you can find on TH-cam), while hilarious as *everyone* runs out of fuel, in a blacksmithing video has a much weaker claim toward *Fair Use.*
:O
Thanks.