I seen that before in other Elememt and. That’s another option too. But for me working in other people element, I can cut that bolt and rather use the proper tool. 🙂👍
You can use a regular long 17mm impact socket, just don't insert the head of the ratchet fully into the socket. Put the socket on the stud first, then attach the ratchet.
I tried that a few times but once in a while that wont work depending of the Socket brand you have. also when you get a car with lot of corrosion or that bolt is so tie. Is nice to have the right tool. ☺
Yeah, that's what I did when I was replacing my alternator and pulley. I needed more space to relieve tension on the pulley and ended up removing the top of the motor mount. Realized my deep socket wasn't quite long enough but if I put the socket on first, it worked okay.
Awesome Miguel 😅can you please take a picture of where the jack goes underneath? I plan on doing this but want to place the jack in the right place 😮Thanks
Not TRQ is aftermarket , the OEM is the best option. I just added that link for reference but I think I’ll also add the OEM link so both options are there 👍
@@Element_lifestyle thanks! Just making sure. I got all excited because the TRQ is half the price of the OEM. 😄 I’m definitely going to go with the OEM version which is running about $100ish.
Thanks Miguel, for making all your very helpful how to videos. I’m a new fan to your channel. Are you based in SoCal? How do l find out about any upcoming Honda Element meets?
Hi I have a question? I have a 2011 Element Ex automatic and have replaces outer tie rods, sway bar links, ball joints . swayy bar bushings and alo replyaced the struts. and its making a cluncking noise on the passenger side. if I put the old strut it stops if i put the new one it makes the noise.I have put another new strut and same thing. what canit be? should i keep the same springs and just replase the shock .
I guess no one bothers with torque every bolt and nut? I wanted to do it right in all my repairs and would always look up torque spec, but I would constantly struggle trying to fit my torque wrench in tight spots.
To be honest parts like this I won’t torque. Unless I am sound like head gaskets or other parts that requieres 100% a torque wrench. I do always torque my wheels too.
@@Element_lifestyle I totally agree, an experienced mechanic will know what pressure to tighten a bolt or nut, but I would always use a torque wrench for important parts like head bolts
Long 17mm Socket: amzn.to/48rubYi Passenger side Aftermarket Motor Mount: amzn.to/3LHh8bn OEM Passenger Side mount: honda.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/honda-rubber-engine-side-mounting-50821scva02?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjt-oBhDKARIsABVRB0xJG4DB9REVChlJpf_3oTYwBVK26_yVcacvG9iYerU5voo5AA1_BTkaAh7BEALw_wcB
I have a 2007 Honda element this motor mount doesnt fit without modifing it.. some ppl have said it does but it doesnt I've tried and bought 2 of them because the 2007 and up, for whatever reason cost almost triple the price. There are 3 holes and this motor mount has one hole slightly off and you would have to modify it.. I didnt try to modify because its to close to the edge. Would it be safe to drill the hole wider so that it does fit or make a new hole..? any advice would be appreciated
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I just took an angle grinder to that long stud and cut the tip off to allow deep socket to fit, 😃
I seen that before in other Elememt and. That’s another option too. But for me working in other people element, I can cut that bolt and rather use the proper tool. 🙂👍
You can use a regular long 17mm impact socket, just don't insert the head of the ratchet fully into the socket. Put the socket on the stud first, then attach the ratchet.
I tried that a few times but once in a while that wont work depending of the Socket brand you have. also when you get a car with lot of corrosion or that bolt is so tie. Is nice to have the right tool. ☺
HF Icon deepwell sockets are long enough to fit.
Yeah, that's what I did when I was replacing my alternator and pulley. I needed more space to relieve tension on the pulley and ended up removing the top of the motor mount. Realized my deep socket wasn't quite long enough but if I put the socket on first, it worked okay.
Awesome Miguel 😅can you please take a picture of where the jack goes underneath? I plan on doing this but want to place the jack in the right place 😮Thanks
Always so helpful! Thank you!
🙏
Thank you, great video.
your welcome
Great video! Thank you!
Your welcome. Glad you like it
@@Element_lifestyle is that TRQ mount really the OEM replacement? Meaning that’s the vendor Honda has make that specific engine mount?
Not TRQ is aftermarket , the OEM is the best option. I just added that link for reference but I think I’ll also add the OEM link so both options are there 👍
@@Element_lifestyle thanks! Just making sure. I got all excited because the TRQ is half the price of the OEM. 😄 I’m definitely going to go with the OEM version which is running about $100ish.
Thanks Miguel, for making all your very helpful how to videos. I’m a new fan to your channel. Are you based in SoCal? How do l find out about any upcoming Honda Element meets?
How do you know if the engine mount needs to be replaced
Usually Vibration , vibration will feel inside the car especially in idle .
Chingon!!
Does this throw any symptoms? Did you notice any difference?
Big difference after replacing it . Car had a vibration before
@Element_lifestyle even with no tears it still had a vibration?
Hiya, I love your channel. What do you recommend to clean the engine area?
does this work on honda accord too
Yes it does . Make sure to get that socket since I seen people getting troubles to remove that long bolt.
Hi I have a question? I have a 2011 Element Ex automatic and have replaces outer tie rods, sway bar links, ball joints . swayy bar bushings and alo replyaced the struts. and its making a cluncking noise on the passenger side. if I put the old strut it stops if i put the new one it makes the noise.I have put another new strut and same thing. what canit be? should i keep the same springs and just replase the shock .
Should I go Oem with all the mounts ?
Awesome, thank you
I cut about a half inch of cone off with a dremel. EZ mode lol
What brand socket and what’s the length?
amzn.to/3SQeC75
@@Element_lifestyle thanks
I guess no one bothers with torque every bolt and nut? I wanted to do it right in all my repairs and would always look up torque spec, but I would constantly struggle trying to fit my torque wrench in tight spots.
To be honest parts like this I won’t torque. Unless I am sound like head gaskets or other parts that requieres 100% a torque wrench. I do always torque my wheels too.
What about sensors like the oil switch, oil pressure, vtec stuff, and anything with a seal or gasket?@@Element_lifestyle
@@Element_lifestyle I totally agree, an experienced mechanic will know what pressure to tighten a bolt or nut, but I would always use a torque wrench for important parts like head bolts
Sc has different ground wire
Thanks for the info 🙏
Long 17mm Socket:
amzn.to/48rubYi
Passenger side Aftermarket Motor Mount:
amzn.to/3LHh8bn
OEM Passenger Side mount:
honda.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/honda-rubber-engine-side-mounting-50821scva02?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjt-oBhDKARIsABVRB0xJG4DB9REVChlJpf_3oTYwBVK26_yVcacvG9iYerU5voo5AA1_BTkaAh7BEALw_wcB
I have a 2007 Honda element this motor mount doesnt fit without modifing it.. some ppl have said it does but it doesnt I've tried and bought 2 of them because the 2007 and up, for whatever reason cost almost triple the price. There are 3 holes and this motor mount has one hole slightly off and you would have to modify it.. I didnt try to modify because its to close to the edge. Would it be safe to drill the hole wider so that it does fit or make a new hole..? any advice would be appreciated