The order you bled is not the order that Honda recommends. You need to go driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, and then driver rear. Just look at the Honda service manual. You should also angle the tube up so that when you are pumping the fluid, any air that is trapped in the system will also be cleared and you can see that in the tubing as the air bubbles will rise up towards the top of the arch of the tube. Lastly, you should make it clear to your viewers that there's no set number of pumps that you need to do to clear the fluid. You just pump until you see clean fluid and no more air coming out. Making sure to check the reservoir every few pumps to make sure it doesn't run dry.
That's not necessarily true. I just flushed my wife's Honda Element in this exact same order this week. I always go in the same order in my cars as well and have done so for yrs and no issues. Danny, you're doing a great job, Sir! Don't let people tell you different!
The Honda Element Service Manual 2003-2005 "brake bleeding sequence" page 19-9. The engineers of the vehicle made it this way for a reason. 1 driver front 2 passenger front 3 passenger rear 4 driver rear (its possible that 2006-2011 may have a different sequence)
@@rickmercatoris4430 You are correct on the bleed order. I have a 2003 Element. Also, when measuring distance between master cylinder and wheel the ABS must be included. On the 2003 Element the brake lines go from the master cylinder on right side to the ABS on the left side and THEN out to each wheel. I'm looking at the parts diagram "Brake Lines (ABS)" and longest to shortest brake lines are: Left rear, right rear, left front, right front. This is not the order given in the manual. I don't know why the manual's bleed order is not the usual "longest to shortest" but the manual is the authority despite the many youtubers saying otherwise. Do we really think some guy on youtube knows better than the Honda engineers who wrote the manual? Since every vehicle has its own brake line layout we should never assume "longest to shortest" is the correct bleed sequence. That may have been a good rule of thumb before but it doesn't apply today. Bottom line: read the manual. That said, I have bled my Element's brakes in the wrong order and I haven't noticed any problems. Perhaps I did not remove all the dirty fluid this way. Who knows.
Very informative video. Thank you Danny! Just one question - did you empty the jar between wheels? It doesn't look like it fills up very much as you go through this process.
*WARNING!* Apply penetrating oil to bleeder screws before loosening! Repeat several times over a few hours. Let it soak in! My bleeder screw broke off because it was rusted in place. I spent several hours trying to remove it with vise grips,, torch, screwdriver, hacksaw. Nothing worked. So I had to go out and buy a screw extractor. Then THAT broke off inside the bleeder screw. Out of options so I had to buy a new brake caliper. All because I could not remove that bleeder screw. You've been warned.
Update: If your bleeder screw is stuck or broken you might not have to replace the caliper. You can leave the stuck screw in and bleed instead at the brake hose that attaches to the caliper. You would have to submerge the hose in a jar of brake fluid so air isn't sucked into the hose. Or have a helper pump the brakes when you loosen and tighten the hose screw. Just tighten before helper releases the pedal so air isn't sucked into the hose.
Danny, I'm going to do your procedure for the brake bleed process, Question: Can this job be done without removing the tires??? I have a 2010 Accord. Thanks,
@@dannysdiygarage Gotcha! Do you remember the material or type of tube? I found a silicone one but it's too rigid and doesn't quite grip the bleeder to seal the way yours does. Thanks again!
Here is a Civic bleed video th-cam.com/video/X5AVJ_1C938/w-d-xo.html manual says front left front right rear left rear right My video shows the sequence a different way and it works fine
@@dannysdiygarage hi there, I’m having a hard time doing it but does the fluid comes out as clear as the new one? I’m getting like little little yellowish color. Better than the brown color at first. Thank you
@@dannysdiygarage hey Danny sorry to bother you but as I mentioned I was having a hard time getting the fluid to go inside the tubing and into the bottle. I raised it and lowered it and sometimes the fluid was going back. So I just drained into a pan on the floor. Not sure if you know but after I did the front tires, when to do the back ones but the bolt in the back is smaller than the front ones ! I used a number 10 mm wrench for the front but the back is like 9 or 8. Anyway I stopped cause I don’t have one and is already dark. Do you think that is there any problem that I continue tomorrow after getting a smaller wrench? I don’t have much of a choice. Thank you so much for your help.
Danny, I am half way done but used way too much tubing. It spirals before reaching the container and I see the old brake fluid is getting stuck in there, with gaps between the fluid and the jar. Is there a risk that this could introduce air bubbles into the line?
That means you either have air in the system that you're getting rid of, or you don't have a good seal on where the hose is connected. Did you get this figured out?
@@dannysdiygarage sorry for my incompetence. When I go buy one. I just look for 7/16" inner right? I'm doing my power steering fluid as well. Those are 3/8 inner. So I need two different sizes. Correct?
That music... a very romantic moment with the car :)
The order you bled is not the order that Honda recommends. You need to go driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, and then driver rear. Just look at the Honda service manual. You should also angle the tube up so that when you are pumping the fluid, any air that is trapped in the system will also be cleared and you can see that in the tubing as the air bubbles will rise up towards the top of the arch of the tube. Lastly, you should make it clear to your viewers that there's no set number of pumps that you need to do to clear the fluid. You just pump until you see clean fluid and no more air coming out. Making sure to check the reservoir every few pumps to make sure it doesn't run dry.
Thank you for that information, mine worked out just fine, great advice
Thanks for adding
That's not necessarily true. I just flushed my wife's Honda Element in this exact same order this week. I always go in the same order in my cars as well and have done so for yrs and no issues. Danny, you're doing a great job, Sir! Don't let people tell you different!
GREAT JOB DANNY & MAY GOD BLESS YOU ABUNDANTLY IN THE MIGHTY NAME OF JESUS AMEN
The Honda Element Service Manual 2003-2005 "brake bleeding sequence" page 19-9.
The engineers of the vehicle made it this way for a reason.
1 driver front
2 passenger front
3 passenger rear
4 driver rear
(its possible that 2006-2011 may have a different sequence)
@@rickmercatoris4430 You are correct on the bleed order. I have a 2003 Element.
Also, when measuring distance between master cylinder and wheel the ABS must be included. On the 2003 Element the brake lines go from the master cylinder on right side to the ABS on the left side and THEN out to each wheel. I'm looking at the parts diagram "Brake Lines (ABS)" and longest to shortest brake lines are: Left rear, right rear, left front, right front. This is not the order given in the manual. I don't know why the manual's bleed order is not the usual "longest to shortest" but the manual is the authority despite the many youtubers saying otherwise. Do we really think some guy on youtube knows better than the Honda engineers who wrote the manual? Since every vehicle has its own brake line layout we should never assume "longest to shortest" is the correct bleed sequence. That may have been a good rule of thumb before but it doesn't apply today. Bottom line: read the manual.
That said, I have bled my Element's brakes in the wrong order and I haven't noticed any problems. Perhaps I did not remove all the dirty fluid this way. Who knows.
Danny your videos are incredible. Thank you for all the time you put into this channel to help people out!
Appreciate that, 👍🏼
really enjoy your videos, very informative and easy to follow for newbies.
thanks so much for the feedback
Thanks. Was looking for info on bleeding without taking off the tires. Clean garage 👌
Appreciate your input
Very informative video. Thank you Danny! Just one question - did you empty the jar between wheels? It doesn't look like it fills up very much as you go through this process.
Another great video Danny. Thanks so much. Just what I needed
Glad to help!
Very nice tutorial. Thank you sir!
*WARNING!*
Apply penetrating oil to bleeder screws before loosening! Repeat several times over a few hours. Let it soak in!
My bleeder screw broke off because it was rusted in place. I spent several hours trying to remove it with vise grips,, torch, screwdriver, hacksaw. Nothing worked. So I had to go out and buy a screw extractor. Then THAT broke off inside the bleeder screw. Out of options so I had to buy a new brake caliper. All because I could not remove that bleeder screw.
You've been warned.
Update: If your bleeder screw is stuck or broken you might not have to replace the caliper. You can leave the stuck screw in and bleed instead at the brake hose that attaches to the caliper. You would have to submerge the hose in a jar of brake fluid so air isn't sucked into the hose. Or have a helper pump the brakes when you loosen and tighten the hose screw. Just tighten before helper releases the pedal so air isn't sucked into the hose.
Thank You for your Videos throughout the Year .....Greatly Appreciated .... Have a Great New Year ...
Appreciate you, thanks for commenting
Grate video. The flushing brake fluid is same for an 05 Honda element too?
Yeah should be the same
EXCELLENT VIDEO! THANKS!!!
Appreciate that
Danny, I'm going to do your procedure for the brake bleed process, Question: Can this job be done without removing the tires??? I have a 2010 Accord. Thanks,
yes, its a little harder, but defiantly doable
Have you considered just using speed bleeders? One way/check valve. Air goes out but can't go back in. And no assistant needed.
I haven’t heard of it, great information
Question how do you know there is no air bubbles. After you close the bleeder screw
You will see clean fluid draining, when you do you’re good
Hi Danny, could you link or let us know where you got that specific tube you're using? Thanks amd great video 🤠
I don’t have that anymore 3/16 is the inner diameter, any parts store or Amazon
@@dannysdiygarage Gotcha! Do you remember the material or type of tube? I found a silicone one but it's too rigid and doesn't quite grip the bleeder to seal the way yours does. Thanks again!
perfect
Appreciate your support
What a great video. Thank you. Do you know if is the same way ( start with back right tire etc ) on 2015 civic? Thx
Here is a Civic bleed video th-cam.com/video/X5AVJ_1C938/w-d-xo.html manual says front left front right rear left rear right
My video shows the sequence a different way and it works fine
@@dannysdiygarage thank you Danny. The way how you explain the videos are great.
@@dannysdiygarage hi there, I’m having a hard time doing it but does the fluid comes out as clear as the new one? I’m getting like little little yellowish color. Better than the brown color at first. Thank you
Depends on how dirty it was, keep flushing till it’s clean
@@dannysdiygarage hey Danny sorry to bother you but as I mentioned I was having a hard time getting the fluid to go inside the tubing and into the bottle. I raised it and lowered it and sometimes the fluid was going back. So I just drained into a pan on the floor. Not sure if you know but after I did the front tires, when to do the back ones but the bolt in the back is smaller than the front ones ! I used a number 10 mm wrench for the front but the back is like 9 or 8. Anyway I stopped cause I don’t have one and is already dark. Do you think that is there any problem that I continue tomorrow after getting a smaller wrench? I don’t have much of a choice. Thank you so much for your help.
Danny, I am half way done but used way too much tubing. It spirals before reaching the container and I see the old brake fluid is getting stuck in there, with gaps between the fluid and the jar. Is there a risk that this could introduce air bubbles into the line?
You should be fine
@@dannysdiygarage Thank you!
Perfect
I can’t get the fluid to come out all that comes out is air bubbles please help me
That means you either have air in the system that you're getting rid of, or you don't have a good seal on where the hose is connected. Did you get this figured out?
Dies your car need to be in the accessory mode or completely off??
Completely off, accessory mode doesn’t have any impact on the brakes
How much brake fluid did you end up bleeding out?
I remember it was three 12 OZ bottles
Is the tube outside diameter 7/16 or inside diameter 7/16?
if you're asking about the bleeder screws, I thing the inner diameter is 1/4 or 5mm outer should be 7/16
@@dannysdiygarage sorry for my incompetence. When I go buy one. I just look for 7/16" inner right?
I'm doing my power steering fluid as well. Those are 3/8 inner. So I need two different sizes. Correct?
@@dannysdiygarage sorry I was asking about the tubing used for the DIY "brake fluid drain machine" lol. That vinyl tubing is a 7/16" inner, correct?
3/8 hose
@@dannysdiygarage in the video you say 3/16... the 3/8 hose i got was way too big. Was it 3/16 inside diameter?