buy a rubber license plate frame. vibrational sounds typically come from where parts are attached, not from body panels flexing. anti-flexing is for spl
I bought a 2 pack of those silicone liscense plate mats and used one on my daily and one on my SUV I use to compete with. I strippped the sound deadener off my plate to install and it rattled after using the silicone covers on both cars so I tried silicone mats and deadener. Still rattled. Long story short those covers do not work to stop rattles from liscense plate in my experience but they look pretty 😎. Double sided tape or foam gasket works pretty good and costs less than plate cover or sound deadener kit. Just saying.
I got a silicone frame for 5 bucks from my local auto store, and i put foam peices behind the plate. Problem solved, if you’re competing in car audio I don’t think anything is going to keep your plate from shaking, it’s just simply too much bass
I bought a can of this about a year ago for a 71 Nova project. Forgot about it and got some brush in stuff. Ended up finding this and I’d GREAT! Ordered 3 more cans!
Just go to the junkyard and strip out all of the insulation you can from a BMW or Mercedes severely quiets your car and it will only cost you like 14 bucks an hour and a half your time
Since Lexus LS series are famous for be quiet , I just went to the junkyard stripped one (old) sitting in there , I took home some samples of every kind of material used to make the insulation in such car and the way it is installed, now I am going to replicate the same “technology” in my Camry to TRY to get the same level of noise reduction .
that stuff is meant for hard to reach areas where you cant reach to install the matting dampener like the far ends and corners of the inside of doors, the far ends of the inner 1/4 pannels, the complex shapes and holes where the break lights are located and other areas that are too impractical to use the damp matt.
Yes it was definitely worth the effort to let us hear the difference in my opinion it made a big difference. Now going by this demonstration you made I know now that I will use it for hard-to-reach places and as a first step in the war against annoying rattles and pings. I will definitely do this first then Dynamat second thank you for your time and effort
Nice to see an experiment where the results are typical. I actually have an unopened can of this stuff and a roll of butyl tape (generic dynamat) and after owning my VW CC for 10 years, FINALLY decided to replace the front 6.5" components. Going to lay dynamat on the door shell behind the frame, especially behind the speaker, but I'm struggling to find a good use for this stuff. I THINK it would be could when coating elements that whack together subtly, like wiring harness against the metal, etc). Your video is proof that just putting a thin layer on a large piece of metal won't do much. I noticed your trunk lid includes the license plate such is USUALLY the culprit of bass rattle back there). I remember in the mid 90s we would fold up cardboard under each screw of the license plate and it would be like night and day... But thanks for the video, well done my friend. I've subscribed, I like your approach and the multiple BEFORE and AFTER samples. Best wishes.
I figured that even the expensive cars will still rattle, the difference is they use thicker glass and interior panels. You'll never eliminate or insulate all noise just enough to make the sound good. You also don't need it a pro, just try different materials until its good enough for you.
Just an FYI, that car has a series of weights used to make it easier to close the truck hatch. When I removed the weights from my trunk a majority of the rattle went away.
Thanks for the test video! Is this stuff just undercoat with a markup? Dynamat is just butyl roofing underlayment or flashing with a markup, but sometimes thicker.
I have an 01 Corolla I use for DoorDash etc, put a triple 12 box but only two 12" JL W1V2's for now, and the trunk rattle is so bad if I turn it up. I'm looking for a third 12 and second amp but man, the rattle drives me insane - I was thinking about trying to spray but what do you guys think? Shit sounds ghetto.
@@KillaCali62 I replaced the triple 12 box for a normal dual 12" vented box. It still rattled even after tightening the trunk lid down which helped but now they're just collecting dust as well as the amp, going to try and sell them as a package deal for some extra money since I no longer use the car.
Thanks for testing out and for the solid quality. Was your car running while recording the audio? If so, my suggestion would be to turn the engine off so we can catch that influence better. Solid vid. Helpful.
@@Kpaceguy to be honest that rattle could be coming from anywhere. I bet you it's something silly, my tail lights use to coz a rattle and I went crazy trying to find the rattle.
I wonder if it the rattling could be the trunk liner rattling? Have you tried taking the trunk liner out just for giggles to see if it got better? Just a thought...
Just Goto home depo and they have this roofing tape that is exactly like Dyno mat and it's 16 bucks a roll i just watched a video on it 40 bucks for 2 rolls and a roller compared to 150 or more for 2 rolls
Identify the source of the problem them focus of that area especially. It sounds like the license plate. Had that happen and after adding a rubber backing then securing all 4 screws. I had no more rattling/ distorted sounds. Good luck. One more thing...Waterproof repair tape from Home Depot is a very inexpensive and good way to promote road noise
Get ampere audio Vibraflex or deaf bonce rigid both need a torch to be applied but are levels above all else on the market. They make dynomat look like peel n seal
I would assume that this works just based on having some of my cars sprayed with plastidip before. It added some sound deadening properties as demonstrated by just knocking on the panels. I could hear the the difference in resonance. However, spraying without masking off the rest of the vehicle for over spray seems like a bad choice. I'd also use this in combination with a sound deadening "mat". Thanks for the vid.
You would have to do something with the seal of the trunk do to the construction of the trunk and how it has those runoff grooves. So it is like having a suspended sheet of metal in the air. So if you beefened up the trunk seal somehow you could eliminate the sound. To be honest I would be surprised if Dynamat helped that because of the overall trunk design. But let me us know if it does.
good job on video and thx for review. think ima use it in between noico 80 mil cause have to do patches on my lift gate. wires and hloles for snap on EVERYWHERE new highlander horrible
Good stuff man. I just released a video where I used Waterproof Tape instead of dynomat in my spare tire wheel well. You should give that a shot before forking out a lot of money for dyno mat
It's like paint one wall of the room other 3 walls are left unpainted . If sound was water u would understand the leaking area which is 70 percent unpainted area.
The only way to eliminate the rattles and vibrations is to add weight. Adding weight by using a mass loaded vinyl with a backing, (dynamite, etc) or modeling clay can be used as well in some applications.
I'm thinking of using a DIY roll-in bedliner. The purpose of the deadener is to dampen the resonance of the sheetmetal and any added mass will do that. I just don't think this spray stuff added enough mass to make a real difference. Also, there's nothing magical about Dynamat. Kilmat does exactly the same thing for a quarter the price. Literally any butyl mat will work as well as Dynamat.
Noico is even cheaper. The absolute cheapest is roof underlayment, but if you want precut 80 mil, Mat66 is even a bit cheaper than Noico. It's about 17 lb per 36 sqft box, so I'm not sure what gets you the most mass per dollar.
@@VndNvwYvvSvv the advantage of the bedliner is the installation. It covers every bump and curve perfectly. No need to cut. And there's no way it can come loose later. But I do believe literally anything will work. I'm not sure total thickness even matters.
I think it might be your rear deck cover slapping your rear window. I have a 9th gen civic, and I had the same rattle; put a strip of rubber rope on the lip that touches the window, and it went away.
@@sheinon7310 good enough that I bought more. Twice lol. And its $20 for 10 sq ft on Ebay. Great deal! I didnt my SUV trunk lid for $20. That's pretty dope.
1st sand it .... 2nd hit the cracks n edges with wire wheel 3rd clean & tape off 4th hit it with duplicolor or this stuff he uses Then paint +clear coat it.... this seams to work BEST!
thats horrible advice Im sorry lol...theres no need to strip away paint with such an agressive technique just to spray over it with a spray. can. Not only was this video a bad and incorrect way to use the product, all that would of needed was a scuff without removing paint.Thirdly rubberized products do not require any sanding, just a prep solvent cleaner. Stainless wire wheels are meant to be used on bare metal that was stripped by using a grinder or any method that removes the factory E-coat (paint stripper will not remove E-coat) which is a zinc galvanized coating that prevents the steel from oxidation (rust) when exposed to oxygen. The stainless steel wire wheel is used overtop of the bare metal because it releases particles of itself that will etch onto the bare metal and re-create an alloy coating, thus because stainless steel is an alloy and is a softer metal so it will transfer with heat and friction. If you wan to prep an impractical area for paint, you just need to scuff it with a soft and flexible scufff pad..... nothing too abrasive that will leave behind harsh scratches or even remove paint. The way an automotive factory processes metal panels is a whole other subject. Most amateurs will look at this as nonsense because it just does not make sense to them.
I am surprised no one else has mentioned this to you yet. Take your tag off (while parked, not driving, and where you can place the tag back onto your vehicle before driving again) and redo the test if you have not done any further deadening. See if the rattle goes away? Most of the rattle does come from the license plate vibrating. If the results are much better, apply deadening to the license plate. Above all, I am really happy you are taking measures to get rid of that nasty "rattle trunk"! Cheers and good luck!
buy a rubber license plate frame. vibrational sounds typically come from where parts are attached, not from body panels flexing. anti-flexing is for spl
I bought a 2 pack of those silicone liscense plate mats and used one on my daily and one on my SUV I use to compete with. I strippped the sound deadener off my plate to install and it rattled after using the silicone covers on both cars so I tried silicone mats and deadener. Still rattled. Long story short those covers do not work to stop rattles from liscense plate in my experience but they look pretty 😎.
Double sided tape or foam gasket works pretty good and costs less than plate cover or sound deadener kit.
Just saying.
I got a silicone frame for 5 bucks from my local auto store, and i put foam peices behind the plate. Problem solved, if you’re competing in car audio I don’t think anything is going to keep your plate from shaking, it’s just simply too much bass
I bought a can of this about a year ago for a 71 Nova project. Forgot about it and got some brush in stuff. Ended up finding this and I’d GREAT! Ordered 3 more cans!
Just go to the junkyard and strip out all of the insulation you can from a BMW or Mercedes severely quiets your car and it will only cost you like 14 bucks an hour and a half your time
Wow good idea I'ma do that for my 1990 Nissan 240sx hatchback ...
Good point ! I want to insulate my car , but no adding 300 pounds of “DYNAMAT” !!!
@@conejoloco7502 or an ls400, I have 12s in my trunk no rattles inside or out. So much material in the cars
Brilliant.
Don’t be a cheap ass get vibraflex or db rigid and do it right
Since Lexus LS series are famous for be quiet , I just went to the junkyard stripped one (old) sitting in there , I took home some samples of every kind of material used to make the insulation in such car and the way it is installed, now I am going to replicate the same “technology” in my Camry to TRY to get the same level of noise reduction .
Hell yeah, perfect idea homie, my ls400 is so quiet inside, even the 12 in the trunk. No rattles inside or out & there's no deadening. Thats not oem
Success?
that stuff is meant for hard to reach areas where you cant reach to install the matting dampener like the far ends and corners of the inside of doors, the far ends of the inner 1/4 pannels, the complex shapes and holes where the break lights are located and other areas that are too impractical to use the damp matt.
Yes it was definitely worth the effort to let us hear the difference in my opinion it made a big difference. Now going by this demonstration you made I know now that I will use it for hard-to-reach places and as a first step in the war against annoying rattles and pings. I will definitely do this first then Dynamat second thank you for your time and effort
Thanks for watching
Nice to see an experiment where the results are typical. I actually have an unopened can of this stuff and a roll of butyl tape (generic dynamat) and after owning my VW CC for 10 years, FINALLY decided to replace the front 6.5" components. Going to lay dynamat on the door shell behind the frame, especially behind the speaker, but I'm struggling to find a good use for this stuff. I THINK it would be could when coating elements that whack together subtly, like wiring harness against the metal, etc).
Your video is proof that just putting a thin layer on a large piece of metal won't do much. I noticed your trunk lid includes the license plate such is USUALLY the culprit of bass rattle back there). I remember in the mid 90s we would fold up cardboard under each screw of the license plate and it would be like night and day... But thanks for the video, well done my friend. I've subscribed, I like your approach and the multiple BEFORE and AFTER samples. Best wishes.
So does Velcro
I think this spray is more so hard to reach/non flat surfaces (like spare tire well). Probably using both this and dynamat together is best
Ive been thinking about getting a layer of spray foam inside the cab of my truck.. seems like it would work
I figured that even the expensive cars will still rattle, the difference is they use thicker glass and interior panels. You'll never eliminate or insulate all noise just enough to make the sound good. You also don't need it a pro, just try different materials until its good enough for you.
Just an FYI, that car has a series of weights used to make it easier to close the truck hatch. When I removed the weights from my trunk a majority of the rattle went away.
Thanks for the experiment.... made my mind up.
What’s the verdict
That overspray though. Lmfao.
Spray outside and use all sorts of foams, butyl backed adhesives inside, like every square inch. To make a difference
Did you spray the back of your license plate and secured it better?
I bought a rubber frame to put around it
It’s basically under coding for a car you can also use that but if you do I recommend using an old bed sheet to cover the back of the car
Thanks for the test video! Is this stuff just undercoat with a markup?
Dynamat is just butyl roofing underlayment or flashing with a markup, but sometimes thicker.
I have an 01 Corolla I use for DoorDash etc, put a triple 12 box but only two 12" JL W1V2's for now, and the trunk rattle is so bad if I turn it up. I'm looking for a third 12 and second amp but man, the rattle drives me insane - I was thinking about trying to spray but what do you guys think? Shit sounds ghetto.
did the rattle go away
@@KillaCali62 I replaced the triple 12 box for a normal dual 12" vented box. It still rattled even after tightening the trunk lid down which helped but now they're just collecting dust as well as the amp, going to try and sell them as a package deal for some extra money since I no longer use the car.
Did you spray behind the license plate ?
I have a rubber frame around it
Thanks for testing out and for the solid quality. Was your car running while recording the audio? If so, my suggestion would be to turn the engine off so we can catch that influence better. Solid vid. Helpful.
The car was on during the music portions because my radio won't play without the engine
@@Kpaceguy oh dang! My wife's car battery died just this week for rolling that radio with the engine cut off. Think I found a solution! lol
Does your skar amp get hot? Mine does and I wonder if it’s ok should I do something about it or is it ok? Thanks
Nope never. But it CAN if it's really hot outside and you run it hard
@@Kpaceguy wow I didn’t know half way on regular volume and bass knobb was hard
It's your number plate frame that's rattling against your trunk lid. Wedge something between the frame and lid
I just a rubber plate frame. It's just too much bass lol
@@Kpaceguy to be honest that rattle could be coming from anywhere. I bet you it's something silly, my tail lights use to coz a rattle and I went crazy trying to find the rattle.
What would you suggest for ratteling gas door
Rubber seal you'd put around a car door or weather stripping from lowes or Walmart
All in the rear glass too..so much for prep
There's nothing on the glass
I wonder if it the rattling could be the trunk liner rattling? Have you tried taking the trunk liner out just for giggles to see if it got better? Just a thought...
I shall give it a try
@@Kpaceguy can u make a video of it if u do
Just Goto home depo and they have this roofing tape that is exactly like Dyno mat and it's 16 bucks a roll i just watched a video on it 40 bucks for 2 rolls and a roller compared to 150 or more for 2 rolls
Identify the source of the problem them focus of that area especially. It sounds like the license plate. Had that happen and after adding a rubber backing then securing all 4 screws. I had no more rattling/ distorted sounds. Good luck. One more thing...Waterproof repair tape from Home Depot is a very inexpensive and good way to promote road noise
I meant to say.. promote less road noise
What would you use for the bumper?
You'll have to go from underneath or take it off. They hang on with clips so it's not too hard. Then spray it
@@Kpaceguy how many bottles?
Wouldn't do less than 3. But the more the better. Add as necessary
@@Kpaceguy Can you use dynamatt in the bumper?
So how’s the soundproofed windshield treating you?
No overspray touched any unintended parts of the car
How did it go cleaning the rear window from the over spray?
Nothing got anywhere
I well prep the areas I don’t want to risk the trouble! That’s for the video man!
I typically do but forgot since I was trying to rush the video Before the sun went down
Traditional dynomat is superior to just about anything available to dampen road & vibration noise! Good video.
Vibraflex and db rigid are better
That over spray...😮
I spray this after I put on the dynomax
I used both dynomat & spray
What size is your subwoofer
They were dual 12's but I have a different vehicle with a single 15 now
Get ampere audio Vibraflex or deaf bonce rigid both need a torch to be applied but are levels above all else on the market. They make dynomat look like peel n seal
Way cheaper alternative. You are supposed to use multiple coats. But both with give amazing results
I would assume that this works just based on having some of my cars sprayed with plastidip before. It added some sound deadening properties as demonstrated by just knocking on the panels. I could hear the the difference in resonance.
However, spraying without masking off the rest of the vehicle for over spray seems like a bad choice. I'd also use this in combination with a sound deadening "mat".
Thanks for the vid.
That’s what I’m hoping to do to my 2013 impala 💪
Sundowns sa9036 is 90mil thick...their ither deadener is 160mil thick.
What you sprayed on was about .3 mil thick
Can you try the test with your license plate off? It sounds like that was where most of your rattle was from.
There is a rubber cover around the plate. It wasn't the issue
Do you think it could damage the electrical connections
No but I'd still avoid spraying them just because you'll cover them and will have a tough time accessing them if you ever need to.
I would use dyno mat but it’s too expensive do I use kill mat
I bought 2 cans before watching your video . Lol. Just for my trunk lid. I have 2 evl 12s on skv2 3500
This is probably good in combination with deadner
Honestly sounds like your license playe and cover, put stick on foam blocks behind the plate and then screw it down firm without the cover on
Plate*
It has a rubber frame around it
@@Kpaceguy i would still try the stick on foam blocks behind the plate so its not metal on metal 👍
Will give it a shot
Don't know if you want to try and put dynamat on top of that. May not bond well.
Is this just expensive stone chip?
Stone chip spray*
No it's some kind of hardening rubber like material
Isn’t that what most stone chip spray is?
The stuff we get in the UK is like a goopy rubber that drys but stays flexible
You would have to do something with the seal of the trunk do to the construction of the trunk and how it has those runoff grooves. So it is like having a suspended sheet of metal in the air. So if you beefened up the trunk seal somehow you could eliminate the sound. To be honest I would be surprised if Dynamat helped that because of the overall trunk design. But let me us know if it does.
Dynomat helped but it'll never eliminate it
use sky high car audio deadener it WILL work i use it in my SPL build
good job on video and thx for review. think ima use it in between noico 80 mil cause have to do patches on my lift gate. wires and hloles for snap on EVERYWHERE new highlander horrible
Good stuff man. I just released a video where I used Waterproof Tape instead of dynomat in my spare tire wheel well. You should give that a shot before forking out a lot of money for dyno mat
Does this have a lingering smell to it, or does it go away pretty quickly?
Overnight it went away but if sprayed in the does I'd imagine it'll last a couple days
The sound system should have rubber lining on all edges, don't let it sit near metal. But even then, I don't know if it will work.
It's like paint one wall of the room other 3 walls are left unpainted . If sound was water u would understand the leaking area which is 70 percent unpainted area.
Where in the hell do you put the groceries? Sorry, old man joke! Great video, your presentation skills are natural and very interesting!
Think it’s funny there’s not much difference when the owners manual say recommend 3-4 cans per door/ hatch
i hope that is not serious candidate for sound deadening.dude you bugred up your boot
UM ROLLING WITH THE RATTLE 🎶🎶🎵🎶🎵👍....
The only way to eliminate the rattles and vibrations is to add weight. Adding weight by using a mass loaded vinyl with a backing, (dynamite, etc) or modeling clay can be used as well in some applications.
If you dont invest in dynomat its gonna continue to sound like low budget. Don’t be that lame guy at the light with the trunk rattling. Just sating
I'm thinking of using a DIY roll-in bedliner. The purpose of the deadener is to dampen the resonance of the sheetmetal and any added mass will do that. I just don't think this spray stuff added enough mass to make a real difference.
Also, there's nothing magical about Dynamat. Kilmat does exactly the same thing for a quarter the price. Literally any butyl mat will work as well as Dynamat.
Noico is even cheaper. The absolute cheapest is roof underlayment, but if you want precut 80 mil, Mat66 is even a bit cheaper than Noico. It's about 17 lb per 36 sqft box, so I'm not sure what gets you the most mass per dollar.
@@VndNvwYvvSvv the advantage of the bedliner is the installation. It covers every bump and curve perfectly. No need to cut. And there's no way it can come loose later. But I do believe literally anything will work. I'm not sure total thickness even matters.
Thanks for the upload. Next time, gloves and masking tape for the areas that should have not been sprayed 😊
Now you gonna have to take that stuff off before you dyno Matt to stick better 😂
I think it might be your rear deck cover slapping your rear window. I have a 9th gen civic, and I had the same rattle; put a strip of rubber rope on the lip that touches the window, and it went away.
Yes I dynomatted it and it stopped it!
This is a Carpenters bane of existence 🥴... No tape, to paper.
Thank you
Cringing about overspray on your awesome subs there but superb vid. Thankyou.
Dang, didn't rough up the surface or mask anything, just rawdogged it like a high schooler on prom night.
The background music and song feels like few dogs are barking.
I can not believe you didnt cover the subs up. Wtf 😳
I wohld use dino matt
THAT RATTLING NOISE IS YOUR LICENSE PLATE RATTLING
Yeah, that stuff sucks! I used this 80mil stuff called noico. I got it on eBay for $20 for 10 sq ft.
@@sheinon7310 good enough that I bought more. Twice lol. And its $20 for 10 sq ft on Ebay. Great deal! I didnt my SUV trunk lid for $20. That's pretty dope.
man just sound deadened the outside of the car too, need to mask that ish off.
Bro I hope you didn't use dynamat... kilmat is ⅓ the price or less. $1.38 per sqft vs $5 per sqft and kilmat is EXACTLY the same stuff, just as good
I have kilmat
What song is that lol
Did you find out what song it is? I want to know also
Always four layers.
I just know you got overspray everywhere lol
I got lucky
put a rubber sheet or foam behind your license plate. it won't rattle
Boy that’s ABC liquor Dan style
Liscence plate cover
1st sand it ....
2nd hit the cracks n edges with wire wheel
3rd clean & tape off
4th hit it with duplicolor or this stuff he uses
Then paint +clear coat it.... this seams to work BEST!
thats horrible advice Im sorry lol...theres no need to strip away paint with such an agressive technique just to spray over it with a spray. can. Not only was this video a bad and incorrect way to use the product, all that would of needed was a scuff without removing paint.Thirdly rubberized products do not require any sanding, just a prep solvent cleaner. Stainless wire wheels are meant to be used on bare metal that was stripped by using a grinder or any method that removes the factory E-coat (paint stripper will not remove E-coat) which is a zinc galvanized coating that prevents the steel from oxidation (rust) when exposed to oxygen. The stainless steel wire wheel is used overtop of the bare metal because it releases particles of itself that will etch onto the bare metal and re-create an alloy coating, thus because stainless steel is an alloy and is a softer metal so it will transfer with heat and friction. If you wan to prep an impractical area for paint, you just need to scuff it with a soft and flexible scufff pad..... nothing too abrasive that will leave behind harsh scratches or even remove paint. The way an automotive factory processes metal panels is a whole other subject. Most amateurs will look at this as nonsense because it just does not make sense to them.
Didn't spray it thick enough
Looks like flex sill
Adds up bruh
The sprays never worked for me. They just leave an awful odor.
I am surprised no one else has mentioned this to you yet. Take your tag off (while parked, not driving, and where you can place the tag back onto your vehicle before driving again) and redo the test if you have not done any further deadening. See if the rattle goes away? Most of the rattle does come from the license plate vibrating. If the results are much better, apply deadening to the license plate. Above all, I am really happy you are taking measures to get rid of that nasty "rattle trunk"! Cheers and good luck!
My plate has a rubber case around it
@@Kpaceguy, well darn and good at the same time! I was hoping that was the problem since it was an easy cheap fix.
@@TMouse-hd5jb I think you just need no less than 2 cans of this to do any kind of difference
Dynomat is better I did my whole car in Dyomat I got 2 12s 2000 watts MTX in a 06 WV passat and no Trunk raddleing.😊
It’s basically beutyl in a can
Your trunk is loosely latched bruh
Bruh just peppered the whole rear end with rubber spray.. unreal
Bro your trunk is not even flexing. Appears it is more loose than anything.
The rattle is most likely the license plate my guy
It's not
Ok boss
It has a rubber case around it for that reason
Makes sense boss. Good idea
Are you KIDDING ME?!?! 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
It's just bedliner spray
Wtf. No prep Bear overspray on car dummy
Guarantee it oversprayed all over everything
Over spray paint every where
2 cans would do the job no doubt 👍🏾
6 cans lol
um RIP rear window and All over spray
Blackens out a black trunk 🤣
It's blue? Lol and its sound deadener not paint? Lol
@@Kpaceguy nah it's a joke cause the car looks black and and u said it blackens out the trunk when in the vid it already looks black 😅
@@JXSTAR45 ahhhhh I got you