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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Continuing some SPL tests of the cheap 18s in a cheap box, will sound deadening the hatch of my car help increase the SPL, or will it hurt?
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Previous Vid SPL testing • Cheap Woofers SPL Test...
I put over 100sqft of deadener in my prius I didn't realize how far that much would go I ran out of places to put it my doors feel like concrete I feel like it doubled my mid bass though. 😎
yoooo i was just about to do my prius what sound deadening do you reccomended
@@zimbronrons I don’t know if you got anything yet but I like Kilmat.
1/4 of a wavelength is the first harmonic in a closed end pipe. That’s probably why the sound resonates louder at the back because it’s closer to the first harmonic of 46hz.
I appreciate the scientific approach you've taken, both in terms of testing and recording methodology, and before/after comparison. Thanks also for explaining the theory behind what you are doing. I truly appreciate your meticulous process.
I have an unknown amount of under carpet padding lining the interior of my little yota pick-up. Works like a champ. I love my cheap little system in that thing so much it became my daily driver.
Before I deadened and deleted my sunroof I was doing a 152+ @34hz and now best score I can get is a 149.8 @32hz but the bass is so much smoother and less rattles along with more wind. I lost the loud effect that it had
When you face the woofers to the back of the cabin as close as possible, you're actually taking advantage of the 'horn' characteristics created. Think of the cabin's back corner as a 90deg horn, extending from the corner all the way to the front. By placing the woofers in the rear corner more acoustic pressure is put on woofers, resulting in better loading and increased efficiency. That's my two cents.✌
Using deadener may decrease total SPL but it is surely going to improve the sound of everything by getting rid of most of those annoying rattles.
Oh yes, it already sounds better
Word!
Indeed
I am so glad you did this testing. It was yet another thought in the back of my mind. Sure this is not be all end all, but the good data is there!
Thanks, any data is good data. The score dropping tells us just as much as the score going up.
@@SparkedEd Exactly. A change on the same day with everything being the same except for the damping material is excellent data.
ED! I CANT WAIT FOR MY BASS NERD SHIRT! Excited to meet you guys at slam, such knowledgeable humble people
you can actually find the resonant frequency with a runout meter placed on the panel and playing different tones and finding the frequency it moves the most, pretty damn accurate too within a few hz
Man I'm so glad you did this video,I was just going to chime in on the way it sounds now ,bet it sounds better and less rattling
Please keep making videos I enjoy them a great deal an excellent source of education
I will try, thank you
Timing and distance,has a lot to do with frequency travel,plus the idea of a loading wall helps to optimize the woofer.
One thing to add....do NOT use that cheap roofing material crap that you can get at the hardware stores. It WILL fall off and it is unnecessarily messy. For just a little bit more money, use the proper stuff, stuff designed for this purpose.
Not ti mention when it gets hot your car smells like tar
I use frost king. Perfect material.
Genuine nice guy, doing actual stuff that people want to know. Thank you sir! You get my thumbs up. I don’t know why anyone would give you a thumbs down. Other then they are just negative haters!
😀😉🤣👊🤘👍 may the bass be with you.thanks man great video
Love these very informative videos Edward. A great way to educate people who are just starting out. The right way!
100% correct on the wave cancellations. Do I know the scientific reasoning ? No lol. Just a lot of experience of failures/learning episodes. I thought deadener would hurt you, like you said sympathetic vibrations were increasing SPL but degraded SQ. Also musical instrument spks and subs are designed for a longer throw of sound. My thought on the sub placement in the HHR would be subs facing back appx 24" from the hatch with port up should yield highest possible in car SPL. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks man, yeah I did try subs to the back. I show a shot of it, but cut the tests because SPL was low and it took up time. My old HHR always did best with woofers up, those numbers are close on this no matter which way they face. It seems fairly forgiving, probably because it's low SPL.
@@SparkedEd Well hell then Idk lol. Can I get the change from my 2 cents 😂😂
haha, no it's all valuable and interesting. I'm actually amazed at how close all positions are to each other. My old HHR was a huge difference in firing positions. That one had a sunroof so that must have been a variable and those levels were in the 153s so it's not quite the same.
I swear my music is louder when the windows are down is that even possible and I also deadened the top of my trunk just one layer and it seems like it does sound better but doesn't beat as hard as it used to so I guess I gotta deaden everything as Im not peeling this shit back off... Loved the video I've learned a good bit from your vids!!
Me too
you probably get higher frecuencies which "sound louder"
I wonder what makes my car different? Enclosure rear facing isn't as loud, bass isn't as deep, doesn't hit as hard, as it does firing forward?
I remember back in the late 80's and early 90's, the volkswagon Beatle had awesome acoustics, and that was before any of us had heard of sound deadening.
The steel back then may have been better than now
Before u go and pull the deadener off put another 1 to 2 layers more on my car is very weird but most times I put deadener the first layer drops a lot then second layer brings back to original score then layers after that can increase your score spend the extra time and do a few extra layers
Good luck
I like this video a lot! thank you for making this.
I've had good luck with Killmat and Noico both from Amazon. Typically way cheaper than most other sound deadening.
My noico just arrived the other day. I can’t wait to install it 😁
Same here. Noico 80mil (black) and also the spray on butyl cans from "boom mat" have been. Good to me as well.
@@bass-n-truth-inthestix9083 is that spray on stuff anything like flex seal? Flex seal might not be cheaper though
@@psychogat3 to tell you the truth I'm not sure. I'm guessing it's similar to it. I think the boommat spray was 12.99 per can when I bought it. They also had priced for 2 cans, for I think it was 24.99 maybe. 1 can is supposed to cover 20 sf if I'm remembering right. I went very heavy with it though lol.
Noico I bought from amazon wasn’t 80 mil and needed like 3 layers to the shitty crescendo murder mat which was crap too.. Soundskins Pro ftw two deadeners In one sheet one application now two for butyl and Ccf like most companies!
Great video, great way to learn. Thank you for your work!
Whoever said fire the woofers forward is unsmart, but I'm glad you did it just to prove points
prob a NEWBIE everyone gotta learn
Yeah I just wanted to show it anyway, or else I may never hear the end of it lol. jk
You’d be surprised though.... In my car facing the box back towards the trunk actually has less SPL, facing the cabin gives it the best SPL. I guess it just also depends on the car.
My advice to you Ed is to try deadening the rest of your HHR and see what happens. Hopefully that will help get your numbers back up. Hell, maybe you can even bust a 50 for us Ed!! Take care of yourself Ed.
Yeah I need to get the back doors done. Not sure it'll do a 150 unless I strap the other 3k to it, but these woofers already stink up the place and get hot.
@@SparkedEd strap the other and them subs are TOAST!!!!
@@SparkedEd Well... can you at least bust 48 for us Ed? Come on you can do it! 😁
Yeah, Rockville is currently getting some heat for false advertising.
@@randomtube8226 I have heard about that too. Did you see that video Rockville put out basically trying to discredit how EXO tested their K9 subwoofers or something like that?
i sound deaden the the roof and the backdoor of my yukon and i lost some high bass , it made the lows sound better with quality, and plays deeper, but overall its not as loud as before
Me too
@titoham-DCXLs good 4 u on that gain . Since my comment I foamed the roof solid also the side panels added more deadner and deaded the floor. Now my Yukon is an earth quaker literally. had 4 team resilient sound 15s now running 6 audiopipe bdc4 18s
@titoham-DCXLs nice
I have a theory and I'd like to get others input on it.
With all this change in barometric pressure some of us have been seeing in the US, has anyone else noticed a higher or lower SPL number depending on the weather, particularly barometric pressure?
My theory is that when barometric pressure is high (sunny day, no clouds), there's more air to compress in the atmosphere, less with lower barometric pressure (rainy day, no mist or dew), therefore I believe that higher SPL numbers are achievable above 30 millibar.
Is this confirmable?
On rainy days, flex is low and my box "unloads" below 25hz, but on sunny days, window flex is about an inch and the box plays fine down to 23hz and won't unload until around 19hz.
Temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, and altitude will affect how sound travels over long distances and in very high tolerance environments such as extreme SPL cars. In most street style cars the difference will be negligible. There could be more of a difference in performance however, attested to those conditions in electrical equipment such as alternators, batteries, wiring, amplifiers, and voice coils as they are all affected by temperature variations. Also, temperature changes from sunlight and humidity will affect sheet metal of a vehicle through expansion. It will also have an affect on the woofer cones, surrounds and the wood and seals of the enclosure. All of this adds up to manifest itself in changes to sound or SPL numbers in some cases.
I am a fellow bass nerd, rollin with 2 Kicker CVR12s (silvers) dual 2ohm VC. Powered by the one and only Power Acoustik 2500 that I bought used for $35. And a nice old Alpine 7873 headunit that's worth slot more than the $20 I paid for it (not relavent). Im going for the best bass4tha$ obviously. I'm trying to determine my dynamic power output at the amp. I've searched all over the net and TH-cam for the formula that will give me the most accurate answer. I don't have a clamp meter just a decent multimeter. Some people say it's Vout squared / impedence. Or Vout x 0.707 squared / impedence, which seems to be more accurate when compared to the amp specs. Using my impedence at the amp (0.5 higher for wires) Im getting about 850 watts without hearing clipping . Spec RMS at 2ohm is 650. Am I doin it the right way? Also wanted to say my soundproofing method was using spray on undercoating on the backside of the outer door skins. Works pretty good. Gonna do it to my trunk lid as well, I just packed random shit between the panel and sheetmetal such as pieces or foam padding and a cut-up old sweatshirt. Point is that the undercoating worked good for me because it's the cheapest and easiest way.
Subs and port facing towards the back will have more bandwidth
This was a great video. lot a lot to think about. 👍👍👍
Thanks man
I agree with what I think you are saying Ed, unless you'll proved through testing that deadener improves SPL scores in specific locations, you're better off not doing anything at all. I've never drank the cool-aid that deadener always makes you louder and the more layers the better.
I always use deadener to stop unwanted panels from being visibly shaken on the outside, it works wonders for that, as fast as db increases it won't make a big difference unless you are strictly spl and don't have anything on the metal vehicle panels, it does increase spl numbers but for 90% of users it isn't going to give you a full db.
But it does improve stealth, its like when you pull up to the light and your subs are slapping harder than you alcoholic dad but everybody around you can't tell its you because your trunk isn't flexing nearly as much as it would because you deadened it!! Hell yeah that's what i like
So without any knowledge or testing what may help would be a semi flexible false rear hatch. Blank it off and try to get it to have a resonant frequency that helps fire that pressure back.
I don't do SPL, it's just an idea that popped in my head.
If you cut open the pockets that you just sealed up leave the sound deadener everywhere else but give the subs that extra air space you just took away you might gain some of that DB back
If you could make a spherical sub enclosure rather than a square rectangle. You would lose roughly 90% of reflection. And sometimes aiming a single sub at a corner. Of the back of the car in trunk can gain as much as 3 spl
Great video 😊👍
by having the drivers radiating from the center of the cabin area, the total impedance match is at its worst, there is simultaneously more air needing pressurized (or more accurately described) more energy is lost or dissipated that way. By loading the drivers against the back wall you get a better impedance match of electrical energy transfer into mechanical, so less losses, the air will more easily couple to the air around it and more spl achieved, its the horn loading principle well that is what I see, I imagine you may be getting some cancelation from standing waves as well like you said.
That's awesome, makes sense and it's fun to know about that. Thank you
I believe the inverse square law applies well to help illustrate, acoustical decay rate applies heavily in the PA world but sound physics is universal. imagine a large cube shaped room, suspend a subwoofer from a cable exactly in the center and play it, standing waves and reflections aside that is the quietest location in the room you could place the subwoofer, the amount of air(our medium) surrounding the sub is spherical and exponentially as you increase in distance, the decay rate as the energy travels out is high, now place the same sub on the floor, that sphere of air immediately around the sub is effectively halved and so twice the energy is now transferred into the available air and the decay rate which is the same allows the higher spl that is achieved to carry farther before decay, next slide the sub on the floor against a wall, once again you half that half sphere of air around the sub and are again able to double the amount of energy you transfer into the air which increase spl and again it carries farther before decay, do that function again and land the sub in the corner of the room and the effect happens again which will then create the most spl and the highest spl average across the room all on same subwoofer and always the same power. its to some extent free power increase, basically the correct terminology is by corner loading the sub you are achieving a better impedance match, its sort of like lighting a fire work off open palm or closing the fist around the same fire cracker!!!!
What you think about rhino liner or a sound deadening spray on the inside of an enclosure or box?
Great info
informative testing
MOVE THE BOX FORWARD, SUBS FACING THEM TO THE REAR USING THE HATCH TO REFLECT THE WAVEFORM, EXTENDING THE LENGTH OF THE SOUNDWAVE
Try putting the plastic panel back on the back door so the bass wave can reflect off something hard...
ShowtimeSPL, hi, look wich one materials of deadener used in Russian SPL.Its big difference. But sure, dont need use every where this material. It can kill db's easy too. Before using any deadener materials make a test push/not push at some car body part and look SPL dbs in real time (without peak hold score) at -3-5db of max your SPL (not so important at first testing). For example you can make burb in real time and see how changes db when you hold different parts of car body (different doors, roof in different points). Dont forget about if dbs less its not mean score 100% less, its can only change itself resounance frequency (it;s matter testing peak point and near +/-3hz ussually). And you use fast simple testing without power testing/ Metering volts, amps out amp its very important for control impedance curve your system. At same time it help make stable measurings. Becouse without power control, warmed coils take less dbs, your power system charge level different.
P.s. Try test for closing vent holes at the angleы left/right ща your bagage place. (for salon air ventilations). its can rise db at near freq. ;)
Deadener try use only on the roof front it part, more under passenger part of roof. Under box roof dont need use deadener usually, dbs go less. But its all not 100% rules, any way need try all step by step changing only one factor, not a few changes at one time make.
Sorry for my English if its so terrible for understanding ) hello from Russia )
I agree these videos are great.. thanks bro
Shouldve tried outside the truck before an after on the hatch.. see if it made huge difference vibration sound..
Sound resonance.with it in the back pointed up it acts like a fourth order. Builds up a load of resonance
I just built a bandpass box about that same size for 4 coustic 12s with a 5 gallon bucket as a port. I haven't tested it yet though I'm waiting for the glue to dry right now.
Come on glue, go faster
Make a vid i definitely wanna see this
This is it without the speakers in it if the link works. m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2316528405073410&id=100001488193311&set=a.398415563551380¬if_t=feedback_reaction_generic¬if_id=1557801730718713&ref=m_notif
WISH I could get rid of the panoramic sunroof vibration/rattling noise!! I've deadened all I can up on my roof! 2011 Ford Edge SEL 2WD 3.5L with two sunroofs.
Because I'm really into your ports and super interested in how you build them
What will happen if you lined the inside of your sub box with sound deadener?
Most likely nothing. deadener works well on sheet metal because it changes the resonant frequency. Different woods have different resonances, but all are close to deadener. This box doesn't flex, but if your does, it's best to add braces, layer up the wood, or line it with epoxy resin or even add fiberglass.
Space and time will shred itself...lol nah itll theoretically mess with ur spl numberd because air flows smoother over well, smoother walls
What I did on my 2-18" ma audio sub box I sprayed black undercoating all inside the box to help seal off any cracks or the porous mdf wood. Not sure if helped or hurt it but I hit 144.4 db on meter lol all in a 96 chevy astro van
I covered my rear gate with Noico Sound Dampening material and now my new rear gate struts are no longer strong enough to hold up my rear gate/hatch on my SUV! SUCKS! I've contacted a half dozen companies asking for stronger struts and no one has provided me with a solution. (I placed the deadner on both the metal AND inside the trim panels) So I removed all of the interior trim panels on the rear gate to reduce the weight and now the rear struts work again thankfully! Although doesn't look too good with my nice beige leather clean interior (Ford Edge). Would appreciate solutions if anyone knows of any.
It's a Ford. Enough said. Solution: Stop doing dumb stuff to your vehicle. You can lookup struts online by length, etc. and find ones that are for heavier weights. You need to do it yourself. No one is going to sit around for hours trying to find you new struts.
And, you could have used carpet insulation, cork, or even fleece blankets to better make the cabin quieter.
@@RobHTech I've tried that, none are exact fit, hence why I resorted to asking TH-cam but thanks for the common sense tip. This is my first Ford and I absolutely love this vehicle! Better than the Chevys and Chrylser/Dodge/Jeeps I've had. Which manufacturer do you recommend?
@@lowhertzhighspl I studied at Lincoln Tech for auto technology and have over 25 years experience, off and on, private work and sometime at dealer--was VW certified specialist. Well, what year, model, etc.? and, how many pounds of that Noico or whatever did you put in there? Also, are the struts OEM/original? If so, it's possible that the weight isn't so much of a problem as is the age of the strut--as they age, they lose power, which I have seen and diagnosed and fixed many times. I also have found stronger struts that fit, but it usually takes some searching.
Adding sound deadener. Can also cauae spl lose bY stopping some air from leaving the trunk area that would leak from excess vibration n flexing
Hey man..great vids as always very educational..in the beginning u said that ur subs are D4s ..so if u wired those in parallel u get 2ohms so my question is the amp is putting out at the 2 ohm rating or 1ohm..
I may have misspoken, they are single 4ohm coil
his amp is at 2ohms before rise. if the subs where dual 4 he would be at 1ohm before rise. what ever you wire your subs to is what your amp will play at before rise.
Its the length of the wave is shorter when faced forward
I have a question that leads into other questions is I'm in a Ford F-150 extended cab with a sunroof my roof is flexing sounds like the ribs have been ripped loose from the panel I would like to wall my truck off but I still want to sound deaden the roof should I just glue the ribs back and fill them with foam screw some plywood on top or should I sound used sound deadener screw plywood to that and drill some small holes and backfill that with foam period. looking for longevity meaning I don't want to have to drill through my roof to to repair from anything re ripping. And I'm also worried about my back windows, can I put sound deadener on the windows I was told that might not be a good idea for my sunroof
I gained and my peak droped from just deadening the hatch. I burb at 34hz though so big difference there.
What kind of car and SPL level?
2010 toyota highlander. Sub up port back. 1 18 does a 148.6 at 34hz, The doors and roof are still throwing big time. Havent deadend them yet.
Hmm, so yours was deadened opposite of mine in a way. So i wonder if more rigidity in the rear as compared to the front is what helps SPL.
Ill be doing 225 mil vibra flex for the roof and such. Im subscribed so ill keep sharing my results as i go. I compete so i meter after everything . Lol
I also lost when i put the plastic back on after deadening. It was .3 lower than without plastic or deadening. And .6 higher with just deadening no plastic.
keep it up g
Thanks man
Is Joe from Game Sack your brother? Or a relative? I swear you two look and sound so much alike.
Never heard of him, most people say Alton Brown
Great vids buddy, you guys ever make it out to Colorado?
Thanks, never been there. That would be a hike and a half.
The score may have dropped because the peak frequency has changed. I've seen plenty of people max out at like 53hz and then deaden the shit out of their vehicle and find they max out at like 45hz instead.
I changed frequencies in the test so both scores were the highest SPL I could get.
I feel as though I lost low end bass out of my 6x9 front door speakers after deadening using 80mil noico. Any suggestions on how to get my low end bass back? (Other than adding a sub)
Great video ! keep up the good work !
Interesting video! you should have tried another frequency after deadening thou. It might have changed. Also, the temperature affects the frequency from what i've noticed :)
Oh yes I did. There is about an hour of testing behind the scenes for every 10 seconds of video
@@SparkedEd Oh cool! didn't notice, sorry! :). Nice video thou, was a long time since i were putting time into car audio but this inspired me. Started working on a SPL build in a CRX today :). Keep up the good work!
The reason you lost dbs is because of a little thing called acoustical reflectivity.
Are there any good affordable SPL meters/ pressure sensors for under 150 bucks?
I think the lowest cost sensors are the SPL Lab at just over $200
@@SparkedEd Yeah, that's all i've been able to find
It's hard to tell but but did you burp at the same frequency?? If so after applying deadner should of ran a sweep to see if peak frequency changed ...great videos btw
It was 3hz lower actually. And thanks man
I had an 06 HHR...Fusion audio told me the resonant frequency is 46 hz . They told me to build a box tuned to 46hz in a divided box.
Subs up port rear, 2-4" aeroports. 4" from rear hatch .
2- Fusion FJL1211s on 650 clamped did 146.8 db.
Drivers door open 3'
I Deadened the hatch, roof and doors (100 mil) took the rear wiper out.
#Boxboysaudiosoundsolutions
Not bad, but keep in mind that usually you would want to tune lower than the car's peak frequency. Maybe 5-10hz lower so that it could give you a nice boost at cabin resonance.
How musical are these subs? Very impressive numbers btw
They are ok. Nothing special, just ok
Big lots special
Love watching every video man thanks.
Thank you
Would it be any louder with the magnet facing out of the box?
usually it's the same, hypothetically it should be the same. It might actually drop in my case since the enclosure is a bit too large and that would effectively increase internal volume.
Btw, are you testing with the vehicle running?
No, I have a 60A charger on the batts while testing
@@SparkedEd what about the temp from one day to the next?
We need Pete @hexibase to answer why rear facing woofers give more SPL.
"Dead" air behind the box?
Yeah, it suffocated and died.
😂
Would you get better results if the port was facing the same direction as the speakers?
My experience from the past tells me that it wouldn't. It could just be something to try in the future, but I usually subscribe to the thought that the port air impedance needs time to match the the cabin air impedance that sits in front of the woofers. So putting the woofers and port on perpendicular planes helps to better match. This car is not following the same rules my old HHR did though so who knows haha.
@@SparkedEd Oh I see. Thanks for the feedback
So what typically if the port is on the opposite side of the box? Like subs firing into a trunk and the port facing out into the cars cabin?
@@samueldevaney6675 Again in my experience they would need a surface to load off of. At least the port does. Some cars do well with the woofers firing forward and port back if they are small enough. Like a CRX
Nice video
Thank you
Your welcome
You have to get a mic that can record low frequency with high accuracy
Is it safe to run a 1 ohm stable monoblock amp at half an ohm?
Depends on the amp and your setup. I personally never do it.
I have that same exact roller. I tried the new fancy rubber ones, just doesnt get the smush factor i want lol
I prefer a high smush factor
@@SparkedEd Theres really not enough data for the smush factor of things.
What your opinion on wood flooring in a trunk will I lose sound 2 12”hawks in a tuned box at 27hz
That may help make it louder
Nice ZZP sticker on your tool box!
Good eye haha
in an s.u.v. do you take off the head liner to put sound deadner to the roof, or you apply it over the headliner to make the headliner thicker ?
Deadener always goes against the metal
@@SparkedEd against the metal thx ,just wondering cause my roof rattles like hell
you can't wire 2 4 ohm dvc subs to 2 ohm it's either 4 ohm or 1 ohm
They are single 4ohm coils, I may have misspoken
What would happen if you deadend the box ?
Hmm, not sure. The bix doesn't really vibrate and being made of wood it's already close to the same frequency as the deadener so I would think not much would happen. I don't want to test it though because I built the box to be able to be modified as I will be doing a few vids from now.
@@SparkedEd ok it was just a thought. Because i figured the box would vibrate. And the deadner would stop it.
Oh sure. yeah if the box is vibrating then it can be a problem. Best way to solve for box flex is to brace it or layer up the wood. I do have an internal brace on this and it's low power so there is no flex. Deadener is really useful for metal, wood needs bracing or you can line the box with epoxy resin and even add fiberglass.
@@SparkedEd good point. I love your channel and how your describing things to where people can understand more . i watch your channel and exo's alot.
Thank you. EXO is my favorite channel.
are you sure maybe the deadener has changed your PEAK FREQUENCY and the tone your using is the same frequency as you did before deadening??
I retested for frequency. The peak frequency did shift, but total SPL dropped. I was testing for a few hours so had to cut much of that
Did you adjust your frequency?
Yeah it shifted by 3hz
@@SparkedEd Yeah common sense but I was just wondering lol.
Absolutely. I probably skimmed that point. i did have to cut a lot of the testing shots out for time.
I feel like it would help. Let’s see.
Hell yea.... you gonna mount the amps on the side like I did my buddies/ customers?
On my HHR? Nah big amps will be in an acrylic tray in the rear cargo area under a sliding enclosure pillar connected to the ceiling. Small amps for the rear door speakers will be mounted in the rear doors.
some cars are positive other negative
If the XB hits 150 before the HHR, will it stay in there?
Nah, they are both temporary. The real build in the HHR is six 12s. The Scion is a work car so it will only get two 6.5s
@@SparkedEd two 6.5's? Always makes me think of John Nolte's 6-1/2 video from around 2000. He does good stuff. Can't wait to see what you do.
yeah man. I have some DS18 6.5s on the way to see how they do. The goal would be a nice box tucked out of the way so I can still cram our show booth stuff in the back. I was thinking of mounting the box on the side back window. We shall see lol
👍👍
I thought 2 4ohms wired in parallel equal a 1 ohm load
You are correct
Two 4ohm coils in parallel equal 2ohms
(4x4)/(4+4)=2
@@SparkedEd that's what I said you said in a video that 2 2ohm equal 1 ohm
@@SparkedEd for some reason I was thinking this guy
Was talking dvc. Just natural go to sorry.
Help me out here. He said 1500 watts at 2 ohms. Makes sense. Then he says 700ish to each woofer. I don’t get how the power would be cut in half if there’s two woofers.
1500w total to two woofers would be 750w to each woofer. After impedance rise and other loses it would be under 700w to each.
Huh I always assumed that each sub would see the rated power of the amp so in this case each would see 1500. You learn something new everyday. Thanks!
Oh gotchya. Yeah power is always divided among the loads. So if all you have is 1500w to two subs, they would get 750w each. If it's 4 subs they would get 325w each, and so on and so forth.
@@SparkedEd ya but, that assumes the two 4ohm subs and parallel wired. It would be different if two 15" subs of different brand/model with different Ohm ratings, e.g., one 8 ohm RF sub with Rockville 4 Ohm sub wired in parallel. It would also be different, if ran in series and different if 4 subs ran series/parallel.
I love this bro!!! I learn so much from watching you :-) Getter Done 😁🐱🏍✔
Thanks man, I'm trying
Do you always have a chew in your mouth or..??
Soundwave bouncing off the deadner,wouldn't that slow down the Soundwave?like polyfil in a box?
Not quite,; polyfill works when sound travels through it, increasing the effective distance the wave travels which makes it appear as if it slows down. reflections don't change the speed of a wave, they simply change the direction and even the phase of the wave. Because of this, the phase angle of the reflected wave is causing a slight destructive interference whereas without the deadener, the reflected wave was constructive. It's a very small amount, but the meter shows it. The deadener also decreases the loss in energy through sympathetic vibration so it sounds louder to the ear.
This video needs allot more B-roll when your talking to give us a visual explanation to compliment what you're talking about.
Still watch car audio vids?
in my case i sound deadend the trunk because it rattled so much that was anoying. now i only hear my bass :)
I'll bet itake a big difference from car to car,I've sold subs to people,and man they was 2 times louder in there vehicles,?
What phone app are you using for testing?
It's not an app, it's a sensor system seen here store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/apm-2-wireless-spl-meter/