If you're wondering about the KILMAT, here's an Amazon link: amzn.to/2LZyDoB. **I am part of the Amazon associate program and make a commission on sales made through associate links.
You've made a great investment in comfort Sir. I've done this to every classic car I've owned. It also takes away the tin sound while driving. So diagnosing problems suspension brakes drivetrain will be enhanced. I strongly recommend doing the roof it's a giant steel drum skin. You might get great before and after readings on your decibel meter. For the roof save product and do long strips full product width with a 6 inch gap. I used to do the whole roof covered. Then a good family friend in the movie sound production biz told me this and he was right. With the bottom of the vehicle yes. Friction nose from wind tire contact suspension actuation bearings road conditions etc..... but the roof is just a steel patio cover keeping out wind sun and rain.just a suggestion. Love the channel
If you cover the entire roof (like I do) you'll get better insulation, especially in the winter. Though I admit I only do it so I can hear myself think when it rains heavy, so the strips might save me some cash.
killmat is a great product. Sound dampening isnt difficult but it is definitely time consuming. If you know what you're doing and thorough in your work, its an all day project just to do the doors, a full weekend to do the entire vehicle and two full weekends to do the ceiling and trunk (yes the trunk does matter and make a difference). Kick it up a level and add a layer of mass loaded vinyl over the butyl or killmat and done properly the vehicle will sound like a vault when you close the doors.
Take those extra pieces and stick them on easy to reach firewall spots. Even behind the glove box, around the fuse box emergency brake , peddles ect. You will be surprised how even hit and miss little spots will change the sound or lack of sounds it will make. This stuff is well worth your time and if you found a cheaper source , that's even better. Definitely makes a huge difference in the doors. Makes old loose sounding doors sound tight as a drum. Love your post, keep up the good reasonable upgrades..
you need to do the roof. that large metal surface is like a giant reverberator. i bet that would make an even bigger difference. try something with insulation properties. that would help with interior comfort from heat as well
1ROAD it is a pain. I did my 1992 GMC Sierra headliner and it was terrible!!!! I broke several plastic trim pieces pulling it out. I’m sure the burb is a lot more involved.
@@1RoadGarage The headliner should be very similar to the 2000+ versions, and those are pretty easy... Took it down and put it back up solo and had no issues. Just make sure you keep the factory mounting holes clear.
Great to hear this makes a difference. If you do the whole truck with roof it will be a big difference. On the average decibel drop is between 20-25 decibels.
I added this exact Killmat to my 2009 Duramax doors and also used foam on the inside of my door 4 panels. I can attest that you in fact are not having any placebo effect. My truck is so quiet now with just the doors done that you would never guess from the inside that it has a 3" downpipe and a 4" exhaust. I plan on doing the rest of the truck sometime next Summer. Love the videos Jimmy! Keep up the great work!
As I understand it, killmat and other constraint layer dampers are for minimizing resonant vibrations in the structure of the car, not for blocking sound. In other words, you don't need 100% coverage (diminishing returns after around 33% coverage). But if course, dynomat and killmat aren't going to stop you from buying more than you need... Mass loaded vinyl is what blocks sound (road noise) and that's what you want full coverage on.
im hearing kilmat first, then a layer of closed foam, theeeen cover it all w/the mass loaded vinyl ftw. Given, this is possibly up to a 1/2" of material added, so one must be very aware of placement of the stuff, for the fitment purposes.
@@aakudev big flat areas first. Thump / drum around with your fingers and cover the spots that resonate the most. You'll notice that the middle of a big flat panel resonates a lot vs a spot near the edge that has a lot of bends or corners.
@@383mazda Thanks, I own a 8th Gen Civic 4D, I cant see any front wheel wells from inside the cabin, how can I make that silent, is it possible from outside?
funny enough but after applying the Kilmat just on the front and rear floor of my Porsche 911 '82, I had the same feeling of being able to hear the music from the rear speakers... and I havent apply Kilmat to the doors yet! im super excited. super easy material to work with.
In high school, science and history were my strong points. I studied IT/CS in college and tonight, I just learned that mill is a measurement in of its self!
You are right “mil” is short for “millimetre”. There are 1000 millimetres in 1 metre, which VERY roughly is a yard. A mil is very roughly about the same as twice the thickness of your finger nail. 👍 (Also we have mils in liquid. A millilitre is 1thousand parts of 1 litre.
I sound proofed a vehicle several years ago. I used a name brand mat that did cost a pretty penny. If you want to up the game go back and put it on the inside of the door panels, and over the access holes on the inside door skins. Pu it in the inside of all the interior panels. In the back hatch, if there is no mechanism for the door or window (fixed back window) put the deadener on the inside of the hatch and then use a sound deadening foam, like an egg crate foam to fill the void. Do the inside of the panels and cover the access holes with deadener. In the hard to reach places like in the cavity between the doors and the back door and rear area use "good stuff" foam. In the back cargo area I put 1/4 neoprene foam under the carpet after using deadener on the skin, and cargo area. This was a vehicle drove daily, took hunting and camping, and my family on vacations. I always wanted to put deadener on the roof and have a new headliner put in, but its was just too much money. The vehicle already was like a studio booth when sitting in it with the motor off. Great video! Enjoyed it a lot.
It takes a lot more than just killmat to improve sound reduction. On newer quieter vehicles the manufacturer uses a combination of mass load and either closed cell of fiber based insulation. In additon the manufacturers have added better wheel well liners and bonded depleted rubber bonding on the exterior surfaces under the vehicle. In addition, the higher end vehicles have double or triple layer glass, double weather seals, and some are even adding noice deadening through the factory radio system.
@@erwin643 that is one of the best fast low cost sound reduction. I build custom homes and have gotten into sound deadening offices, movie rooms, music rooms etc… it’s pretty easy to sound deaden a large space. But cars are tough. There isn’t much room to decouple surfaces that transfer sound.
Thank you for doing this video! You took the time to explain step by step and I'm very grateful. Now I know what I can do to do my car soundproof and improve my car sound system.
I went all crazy knocking the entire car after installing sound deadening. Though your method is the most practical, what I did is after pressing the sheet in place, I then used a heat gun to soften the sheet so that it's easier to press, even by hand, with a cloth to prevent cooking my hands.
That old 'Burban is in BEAUTIFUL shape! Congratulations! I'm jealous. Great video. I did the same on my '07 Avalanche with SoundShield. SUPER easy to work with and fantastic results. You've inspired me to make a video on it; I documented the process with lots of photos.
Did same on my 93 GMC Sonoma. Man what a difference. Completely kills the road noise in the cab and makes it more like a modern mid level car. One day I would like to try that Lizard Skin product
Great video by the way. Your reaction was the same reaction I had when I installed it in my first vehicle. If you really want to quiet that cab you need to spend a hell of a lot more on different materials and layer them. I've installed dynamat in every vehicle I've owned and practically a professional at this point. It's expensive. To properly do it the amount of money you spend on the cost of the material has too high of a diminishing return for what you gain from it.
I was very tempted to do this to my truck since I’m putting in some new door speakers, this pushed me over the edge! I think about 3 boxes should cover all of my 1st gen Tundra, double cab
wow 1 box can do the entire car. i didn't know they give that much of material in 1 box. I am going to give this a try, even though my car is smaller than this truck. good job
I purchased a 1996 Acura Integra Hatchback not too long ago, and I think it would benefit a sound deadening install. This looks fairly easy, thanks for the video! Boosts my confidence in doing it myself with my little Acura!
It'll definitely mask the squeaks and rattles of an older car. Keep in mind any performance upgrades are probably going to increase noise and vibration overall, but sound deadening will help.
I have used 80mil kilmat in the last 2, car audio build I’ve done, I have 4 layers on the roof of my Durango, and I’m floating towels, easy too apply, very effective, priced right....👍👍
Hello, 1ROAD! Wow, it's awesome video! Thank you for featuring Kilmat in it. We really like it! May we ask for your permission to share fragments of this footage as an instructional video for our customers and tag you? Thank you advance!
I started doing this to my CRX even though I wanted to be lighter this is on my Daily driven CRX and added Deadener to quiet the cab inside. The exhuast sound is not bad but CRX make alot of road noise and with the B16A and 200 HP you can hear the Road per say. Now I feel like I am driving in a nice quiet Acura or lexus without the added noise. I can actually hear my music now and hear my own voice. I also added AC to the Car since I was not thinking of just purely racing but daily driving comfort. What a difference it makes
@@TSK_Machety So i used sound deading sricky mats that are not heavy but i believe with the bottom of my floor pan , top ceiling i added another 45lbs with AC unit The CRX is DX so it scaled in at 1890lbs with the 17 inch old school rims and those upgrades it sits ar 1989 lbs or so its not bad
It took me about three full days to sound deaden a GMT800 Suburban: all four doors, the rear hatch, the roof, the quarter panels, and the entire floor. There was definitely a difference, but it was still louder than I had hoped because most of the noise is still coming from the firewall area, windshield, and door gaskets. It's impossible to reach the firewall without removing the dash itself, which is near impossible because of all the wiring looms and AC hardware. The windshield noise itself can't be fixed...unless you get some custom glass and fix the vehicles aerodynamics. And the door gaskets are just a combination of old age and design.
Years ago I wanted to multi purpose my 79 bronco. Ripped out the carpet and applied a multi layer to get a 5/8 thick layer of “Hercules Liner” full flooring. Worked till rust took the floorboards
I am just starting to do this on my 1997 Chevy Cheyenne truck. My project started as a rear tailgate and a driver side door. 6 months later, its a frame up. Way much more money and time than 1st thought, but results is going to be good. Decided on the sound deadening part when I got a interior out of a wrecked Yukon, and had to spray paint everything on the inside to match. Was a no brainer for the killmat, it has good reviews. Am using the 50mil stuff on everything except for the floor, where I'm using the heavier. No matter what, it's going to be way better than before. I love to watch someone else do something 1st, gives me a good idea of what to expect, thanks.
For when I get ready to do this to my 99 OBS Tahoe w/5.7 I'll be pulling off the entire inner panel to get as much access to the metal on the door as I can.
Yes, you should do that. I just didn't mind so much. I think most of the road noise will come from the lower portion of the door so I was okay with just that.
@@1RoadGarage I can understand that. I will be doing mine or more metal for not only sound deadening but also for thermal as I live in an area that gets far below zero and every little bit helps. Also it will help reject heat from the road, exhaust, and solar during summer. Can't wait to see you do more of your interior deadening and what the results are.
It's not worth the effort for the minor improvement returns. You only need 20% panel coverage for deadening, and you'd be better off focusing on sealing the inner door off from the cabin (factory plastic cover), than an incomplete thermal barrier with this material. SecondSkin has some specific products designed for temperature and noise insulation if you really want to do it full bore.
I didn't even consider doing inside the door cavity I cover about 95% of my doors over that removable metal cover. Anyway, couldn't agree more. My c1500 went from tin can to a luxury vehicle. Total game changer.
Also besides the back dont forget the roof, is really thin metal that resonates a lot of sound, Great vid, I know know how much I need for my 2000 sierra extended cab.
I went overkill on my 97 GMC I gutted the doors out and covered everything top to bottom even around the brackets did the roof also all except the floor I put new jute matting. As a bonus I installed Road kill 3 piece speaker foams on and behind the door speakers, made a huge difference to the sound of the music. Took me 3 days because took the doors all the way apart but was worth it for the sound quality and insulation properties. Doors make that nice solid thud sound when closing.
Hey man I've been thinking about those three piece speaker foam kits... Did it make a huge difference? Did you install it exactly as instructed? With that big foam pad stuck against the door skin?
Yes made a huge difference in the sound quality I followed the instructions exactly as it said I guarantee you will not be disappointed! I just wish I would of made a video of the install but I do have pictures I could email them to you.
Anything under 75dba seems pretty good to me. You can get some additional improvements by applying the material to the inside of all wheel tubs. Tires produce lots of noise.
I did a similar product in my trunk for subs. I have a 2016 Altima. Even just doing the trunk was a pretty nice project. It does take effort but is always worth it.
You could also greatly reduce the cabin noise by getting rid of the Blowmaster muffler and replacing it with a drone free black widow venom 250 or 300. Ive owned 4 flowmaster mufflers, super 10, super 40, normal 40 and a 50 and they all droned terrible on me. Made the switch and it greatly reduced my want to deaden my vehicle.
I just purchased this and installed it for my 2 front doors but man the sound is not rattling from speakers like it would or shake the doors hard, the bass is perfection, I'm gonna buy more 80ml 36sqft boxes and i got a chevy impala, i plan to do the whole car may as well lol.
Russia. Kilmat is made in Russia, I didn't know that. For the money, I'm going to do my sedan. When the back seats are folded down, the interior noise is doubled. I'll have to wait until spring, but I'm putting it on my to do list. Thanks, Jimmy.
@@1RoadGarage I bought Noico off of amazon and it seems identical to killmat except the bumps are diamond shaped and there is no branding information printed on it. It also comes from the Russian Federation. Same label as you have. PS, I wouldn't bother with the 50 mil stuff. Stick with the 80 mil.
Back about a year ago I used the killmat 80mil and the noico closed cell foam Matt over the Killmat . It made a good difference. My truck is a new body 2007 Silverado ext cab vortec max .
I swear, I got a '95 suburban as well, and it is like the opposite of yours. It has 4 times the miles, lots of sketchy my looking body work. It is otherwise the exact same truck, and still runs like a champ with no major mechanical problems.
I had both this older suburban style and I now have a 2005 Denali. To be honest I wish I had the older suburban the Denali has too many bells of whistles. There are computers that control everything and it's really kind of a pain in the butt. I mean don't get me wrong my Denali has a 6.0 all-wheel drive I've changed the exhaust still has the cats but I now have dual Glass packs on it with weed burners. I'm currently eliminating all of the ride packages that came with I've raised to back end about 5" played with the keys up front I'm currently sitting 40 inches of the back 36 and 1/2 in the front. I have new keys for the front but now looking at new lower and upper control arms that will be able to handle the lift. All these modifications would have been so much easier on the older style suburban.
On an older truck like that, replacing the rubber door and window seals will go a long way to reduce wind and road noise as you drive. By this point, original seals are hardened, shrunk a bit, and flattened like a pancake.
Lol it might help Do it after riding season is over. The off-gassing could take weeks even with a fan on it. The butyl rubber smells and causes headaches as it cures.
So crazy worth it i wish i would have dynamat my wagon before i put the interior in. My bro used a 50x10ft roll and did the entire inside of his 5.3 swap 63 impala i cant wait to hear how quiet it is once the interior is in 👀
Badass! Thanks for the video! so glad theres an alternative to the main brand. So much more affordable and actually something I've wanted to do for a while now!
To 1ROAD, I am getting some real humor from your mentioning of "I gotta replace this REAL OLD Bulb". Haha, I gotta replace this Glass Radio Vacuum Tube with this new Fuse! I have noticed that you mentioned a few times "I am doing the best that I can" and it always reminds me of my OIC yelling at me "Do not ever say you are doing the best that you can. You can, and will always do better!" Brother, you did a fantastic job. Better than I probably could. Looks good, and most importantly it is functional. That is a lot of work I want to do my vehicle which is an older vehicle with low miles luckily; A 2007 Impala SS with 35K miles. And you are correct with the [Mil] being a unit of measure but also it stands for 1000ths place. I believe but do not quote me on that.
I miss the old TH-cam because to watch a simple video and having to endure 23 commercials because I don't pay for it every month is ridiculous.. Nice Video showing with your work..,
And of course you're in California so the weather is probably a lot more suitable for applying that right now. Like I'm in Michigan and it's 20 degrees out right now so I would have to do it inside my barn with the heat on let the car warm up first for that stuff to stick real good. I used dynamat back in the day in my bass competition cars. That stuff works awesome. Their all about the same quality but very different in price. Great job.
A lot of the sound is coming from your muffler area in the back. I had loud exhaust when I was younger and having a cab that goes over it exposes the sound more directly to the cabin floor. Double your Matte back there at least over muffler. Big difference.
From what I have seen in most videos it’s just a matter of adding bulk to the panels to remove the tinny sound. Then you should come across with a second product such as an aftermarket sound dampened underlay or stick on panel covering
Bringing the sauce yet again! Another great video. I have been thinking of doing this with my 97 2-door for years. You have convinced me I need to get on it. Hey, I am picking up a 4-door 99 Tahoe to go with my 97 2-door next week! Under 100,000 miles, looks and drives like new. Can't wait.
I used 4 boxes of this sound deadener in my Honda spl build. and i still ran out once I got to my floor. But it works wonders. I have almost no road noise. My my bass is crazy loud
I did this to my 2020 tahoe. Used 4 boxes of that kilmat. It's actually like #25 out of 30 of the top deadeners. So actually crappy compared to others.. but for the price is good. I stripped my tahoeninside and did the entire thing top bottom sided etc under seats. But I have 15k watt system and it def works by reducing the vibrations. My truck does not rattle.
Once did this to a van and was told by an audio installer that anything past 25% of a panel is unnecessary weight 🤔i wasn't complaining as the bits I used cost me a bomb and they made it quieter.
I have a 95 Chevy Suburban as well but it's a 2500 with the 454. I'm going to be doing this to it when I paint it and replace the carpet. I like your videos bro good job!!
A -3dB difference means about HALF the energy radiating from the surfaces, also regarding the audio part, contending with just -3dB of noise will sound like double the speakers power... so, there it is, sound deadening is a must
Smashed the like button before the intro title rolled. Informative and entertaining, infotainment done well. Thanks for the content, must do this on my car soon.
Just a quick tip I learned from the detail guys at dealership. Yank the whole carpet out and just take it to a pressure washer and clean it. You can do the same with the seats as well as crazy as it sounds. They’ll dry fairly quickly on the driveway on a sunny day,pointing a high flow fan even quicker. If the carpet is still badly stained after cleaning,find a matching spray paint and go to town and it’ll be like new and even stiffen up the nap.
Thanks for this video brother. I love music and thoroughly enjoy driving and cranking the tunes. I will be installing this product for certain this fall.
You did sound deadning. You didn't do sound isolation and dispersion / absorption with foam. And as a last measure mass loading vinyl that really does the job. It's a 3 part process. You did part one. Measurements should be done C weighted 😊
I actually did this to my 1996 4 door Tahoe.?i had the headliner reupholstered and put sound deadener in whole food and I replaced floor carpet and did sound deadener in whole floor and used a mass backing on floor carpet. It makes such a difference. Next is the doors and under hood
stuff like kill mat really kills vibration not sound so much. it's not really a sound deadener if you put some foam and rubber padding ontop of that. you will see significant sound reduction that stuff is cheep n easy to put in
Rust prevention tip: mix petroleum jelly and atf, nuke it into a liquid and pour a little into your body panels. ATF has great detergent properties and the jelly will re-gel, lubricate and insulate those impossible to treat places!
I used this materal over the transmission tunnel on my 95 4x4 because of a g56 transmission installed.. . I nevever used the materal before. I just was trying to reduce the noise of the the transmission and the dual disc clutch... after installing the materal i was surprised how much noise was reduced.. i now going to have the head liner replaced. So i going to cover the roof with this or whatever is the best materal .
Be sure to install some on your roof, I did my f250 crew cab it eliminated any rain noise on my truck roof. Will do the floor and doors. Jimmy what about the heat from floor did that help? Thanks for your review install..
I put some of this on my jl jeep omg makes a huge difference. I only did the drive train are and back. I plan on doing the roof , doors and entire front floor pan. Plus I'm doing it to my 1998 tj jeep and my gladiator.
If you're wondering about the KILMAT, here's an Amazon link: amzn.to/2LZyDoB. **I am part of the Amazon associate program and make a commission on sales made through associate links.
That and what about those led bulbs?
Nice deal. If I do but it, I'll be able to kick you down
I’ve used this on my skar system and it’s night and day with sound improvement I’ll be sure to use your link when I use sound deadening on my roof
Does this help with heat from the trans tunnel??
1ROAD how come you and Farris no longer do TH-cam Anymore well the channel you had before.
All 88-98’s GM trucks came with a spilled coke on the carpet from the factory
White or caramel in color?!
@@jed-henrywitkowski6470 Probably coke colored
seancarraher haha!
@@rmh_223 coke has caramel color
The 88 to 98 Chevrolet trucks never had real cup holders
You've made a great investment in comfort Sir. I've done this to every classic car I've owned. It also takes away the tin sound while driving. So diagnosing problems suspension brakes drivetrain will be enhanced. I strongly recommend doing the roof it's a giant steel drum skin. You might get great before and after readings on your decibel meter. For the roof save product and do long strips full product width with a 6 inch gap. I used to do the whole roof covered. Then a good family friend in the movie sound production biz told me this and he was right. With the bottom of the vehicle yes. Friction nose from wind tire contact suspension actuation bearings road conditions etc..... but the roof is just a steel patio cover keeping out wind sun and rain.just a suggestion. Love the channel
Thanks for the input, and I will be very grateful if you could elaborate more on how you insulate your car's roof!
If you cover the entire roof (like I do) you'll get better insulation, especially in the winter.
Though I admit I only do it so I can hear myself think when it rains heavy, so the strips might save me some cash.
So if I put Kilmat on the bottom of my weathertech mats would that add a benefit???
so among noise... is it good to keep high temperatures (cold heat) outside of the cabin ?
killmat is a great product. Sound dampening isnt difficult but it is definitely time consuming. If you know what you're doing and thorough in your work, its an all day project just to do the doors, a full weekend to do the entire vehicle and two full weekends to do the ceiling and trunk (yes the trunk does matter and make a difference). Kick it up a level and add a layer of mass loaded vinyl over the butyl or killmat and done properly the vehicle will sound like a vault when you close the doors.
Take those extra pieces and stick them on easy to reach firewall spots. Even behind the glove box, around the fuse box emergency brake , peddles ect. You will be surprised how even hit and miss little spots will change the sound or lack of sounds it will make. This stuff is well worth your time and if you found a cheaper source , that's even better. Definitely makes a huge difference in the doors. Makes old loose sounding doors sound tight as a drum. Love your post,
keep up the good reasonable upgrades..
you need to do the roof. that large metal surface is like a giant reverberator. i bet that would make an even bigger difference. try something with insulation properties. that would help with interior comfort from heat as well
The roof sounds like it'd be the hardest. Taking the headliner down without breaking it... 😬
1ROAD it is a pain. I did my 1992 GMC Sierra headliner and it was terrible!!!! I broke several plastic trim pieces pulling it out. I’m sure the burb is a lot more involved.
@@1RoadGarage The headliner should be very similar to the 2000+ versions, and those are pretty easy... Took it down and put it back up solo and had no issues. Just make sure you keep the factory mounting holes clear.
@@1RoadGarage Forgot to add; you can use the scrap pieces on the back of the plastic trim that squeaks.
The weatherstrip around the openings like moonroof and doors leak much of the noise in from the road.
Great to hear this makes a difference. If you do the whole truck with roof it will be a big difference. On the average decibel drop is between 20-25 decibels.
More like 8-9 db. 20-25 maybe on a home made box on wheels with absolutely 0 sound deadening before.
Nice that you acknowledge the "placebo" effect. My Chevy II feels faster after I change the oil.
Buddy of mine installed this stuff and his doors on like a 1950s truck what a difference made those doors sounds so tight unbelievable
I added this exact Killmat to my 2009 Duramax doors and also used foam on the inside of my door 4 panels. I can attest that you in fact are not having any placebo effect. My truck is so quiet now with just the doors done that you would never guess from the inside that it has a 3" downpipe and a 4" exhaust. I plan on doing the rest of the truck sometime next Summer. Love the videos Jimmy! Keep up the great work!
Awesome!! Thanks man!!
As I understand it, killmat and other constraint layer dampers are for minimizing resonant vibrations in the structure of the car, not for blocking sound. In other words, you don't need 100% coverage (diminishing returns after around 33% coverage). But if course, dynomat and killmat aren't going to stop you from buying more than you need...
Mass loaded vinyl is what blocks sound (road noise) and that's what you want full coverage on.
im hearing kilmat first, then a layer of closed foam, theeeen cover it all w/the mass loaded vinyl ftw. Given, this is possibly up to a 1/2" of material added, so one must be very aware of placement of the stuff, for the fitment purposes.
Exactly right.@@6980869
Mazda, which areas are best to reduce road noise, I don't have much money so can try the important areas only with patches of butyl and mlv over it.
@@aakudev big flat areas first. Thump / drum around with your fingers and cover the spots that resonate the most. You'll notice that the middle of a big flat panel resonates a lot vs a spot near the edge that has a lot of bends or corners.
@@383mazda Thanks, I own a 8th Gen Civic 4D, I cant see any front wheel wells from inside the cabin, how can I make that silent, is it possible from outside?
funny enough but after applying the Kilmat just on the front and rear floor of my Porsche 911 '82, I had the same feeling of being able to hear the music from the rear speakers... and I havent apply Kilmat to the doors yet! im super excited. super easy material to work with.
In high school, science and history were my strong points. I studied IT/CS in college and tonight, I just learned that mill is a measurement in of its self!
You are right “mil” is short for “millimetre”. There are 1000 millimetres in 1 metre, which VERY roughly is a yard. A mil is very roughly about the same as twice the thickness of your finger nail. 👍
(Also we have mils in liquid. A millilitre is 1thousand parts of 1 litre.
Headliner deadener next?
I forgot to buy a roller when I got my sound dampening stuff and I just used the handle of a screwdriver for it and it worked great
How about ear plugs? Costs 4 usd, 5 sec install and guaranteed results
Outstanding work.
Showing how you installed.
Details on material with installing guiding., keep it up.
Oh good on doing the doors.
I sound proofed a vehicle several years ago. I used a name brand mat that did cost a pretty penny. If you want to up the game go back and put it on the inside of the door panels, and over the access holes on the inside door skins. Pu it in the inside of all the interior panels. In the back hatch, if there is no mechanism for the door or window (fixed back window) put the deadener on the inside of the hatch and then use a sound deadening foam, like an egg crate foam to fill the void. Do the inside of the panels and cover the access holes with deadener. In the hard to reach places like in the cavity between the doors and the back door and rear area use "good stuff" foam. In the back cargo area I put 1/4 neoprene foam under the carpet after using deadener on the skin, and cargo area. This was a vehicle drove daily, took hunting and camping, and my family on vacations. I always wanted to put deadener on the roof and have a new headliner put in, but its was just too much money. The vehicle already was like a studio booth when sitting in it with the motor off. Great video! Enjoyed it a lot.
Next video idea: removal of multiple dents from doors.
It takes a lot more than just killmat to improve sound reduction. On newer quieter vehicles the manufacturer uses a combination of mass load and either closed cell of fiber based insulation. In additon the manufacturers have added better wheel well liners and bonded depleted rubber bonding on the exterior surfaces under the vehicle. In addition, the higher end vehicles have double or triple layer glass, double weather seals, and some are even adding noice deadening through the factory radio system.
True. I ended -up with a good sound-dampening effect just by installing after-market ABS wheel well liners in my 1995 Nissan Pickup.
@@erwin643 that is one of the best fast low cost sound reduction.
I build custom homes and have gotten into sound deadening offices, movie rooms, music rooms etc… it’s pretty easy to sound deaden a large space. But cars are tough. There isn’t much room to decouple surfaces that transfer sound.
Thank you for doing this video! You took the time to explain step by step and I'm very grateful. Now I know what I can do to do my car soundproof and improve my car sound system.
I went all crazy knocking the entire car after installing sound deadening. Though your method is the most practical, what I did is after pressing the sheet in place, I then used a heat gun to soften the sheet so that it's easier to press, even by hand, with a cloth to prevent cooking my hands.
That old 'Burban is in BEAUTIFUL shape! Congratulations! I'm jealous. Great video. I did the same on my '07 Avalanche with SoundShield. SUPER easy to work with and fantastic results. You've inspired me to make a video on it; I documented the process with lots of photos.
Did same on my 93 GMC Sonoma. Man what a difference. Completely kills the road noise in the cab and makes it more like a modern mid level car.
One day I would like to try that Lizard Skin product
Great video by the way. Your reaction was the same reaction I had when I installed it in my first vehicle.
If you really want to quiet that cab you need to spend a hell of a lot more on different materials and layer them. I've installed dynamat in every vehicle I've owned and practically a professional at this point. It's expensive. To properly do it the amount of money you spend on the cost of the material has too high of a diminishing return for what you gain from it.
I'm an audio enthusiast so naturally I tend to gravitate to the best sounding system in every car and sound deadening is key. Expensive hobby.
That bulb replacement was so satisfying 🌟
I was very tempted to do this to my truck since I’m putting in some new door speakers, this pushed me over the edge! I think about 3 boxes should cover all of my 1st gen Tundra, double cab
How did the killmat help with exterior/exhaust noise? I'm thinking of doing this to my tundra.
wow 1 box can do the entire car. i didn't know they give that much of material in 1 box. I am going to give this a try, even though my car is smaller than this truck. good job
It is very satisfying watching all your videos specially this sound deadening project. Nicely done!
I purchased a 1996 Acura Integra Hatchback not too long ago, and I think it would benefit a sound deadening install.
This looks fairly easy, thanks for the video! Boosts my confidence in doing it myself with my little Acura!
It'll definitely mask the squeaks and rattles of an older car. Keep in mind any performance upgrades are probably going to increase noise and vibration overall, but sound deadening will help.
I have used 80mil kilmat in the last 2, car audio build I’ve done, I have 4 layers on the roof of my Durango, and I’m floating towels, easy too apply, very effective, priced right....👍👍
Hello,
1ROAD! Wow, it's awesome video! Thank you for featuring Kilmat in it. We really like it! May we ask for your permission to share fragments of this footage as an instructional video for our customers and tag you? Thank you advance!
Absolutely! Thanks!!
@@1RoadGarage Huge thanks to you!)))
@@1RoadGarage Awesome videos. We have sent you a message over the Instagram
Great video.
The best video I found on TH-cam so far str8 to the point. I was having a hard time deciding which brand, kilmat it is Thanks
I started doing this to my CRX even though I wanted to be lighter this is on my Daily driven CRX and added Deadener to quiet the cab inside. The exhuast sound is not bad but CRX make alot of road noise and with the B16A and 200 HP you can hear the Road per say. Now I feel like I am driving in a nice quiet Acura or lexus without the added noise. I can actually hear my music now and hear my own voice. I also added AC to the Car since I was not thinking of just purely racing but daily driving comfort. What a difference it makes
Hoping it helps me I've got a ej1 with a k swap pushing 275 n/a and going tone deaf after long drives (daily)
How more heavy do you think that made you car? Are those foam panels light?
@@TSK_Machety So i used sound deading sricky mats that are not heavy but i believe with the bottom of my floor pan , top ceiling i added another 45lbs with AC unit The CRX is DX so it scaled in at 1890lbs with the 17 inch old school rims and those upgrades it sits ar 1989 lbs or so its not bad
It took me about three full days to sound deaden a GMT800 Suburban: all four doors, the rear hatch, the roof, the quarter panels, and the entire floor. There was definitely a difference, but it was still louder than I had hoped because most of the noise is still coming from the firewall area, windshield, and door gaskets.
It's impossible to reach the firewall without removing the dash itself, which is near impossible because of all the wiring looms and AC hardware. The windshield noise itself can't be fixed...unless you get some custom glass and fix the vehicles aerodynamics. And the door gaskets are just a combination of old age and design.
Years ago I wanted to multi purpose my 79 bronco. Ripped out the carpet and applied a multi layer to get a 5/8 thick layer of “Hercules Liner” full flooring. Worked till rust took the floorboards
I am just starting to do this on my 1997 Chevy Cheyenne truck. My project started as a rear tailgate and a driver side door. 6 months later, its a frame up. Way much more money and time than 1st thought, but results is going to be good. Decided on the sound deadening part when I got a interior out of a wrecked Yukon, and had to spray paint everything on the inside to match. Was a no brainer for the killmat, it has good reviews. Am using the 50mil stuff on everything except for the floor, where I'm using the heavier. No matter what, it's going to be way better than before. I love to watch someone else do something 1st, gives me a good idea of what to expect, thanks.
For when I get ready to do this to my 99 OBS Tahoe w/5.7 I'll be pulling off the entire inner panel to get as much access to the metal on the door as I can.
Yes, you should do that. I just didn't mind so much. I think most of the road noise will come from the lower portion of the door so I was okay with just that.
@@1RoadGarage I can understand that. I will be doing mine or more metal for not only sound deadening but also for thermal as I live in an area that gets far below zero and every little bit helps. Also it will help reject heat from the road, exhaust, and solar during summer.
Can't wait to see you do more of your interior deadening and what the results are.
It's not worth the effort for the minor improvement returns. You only need 20% panel coverage for deadening, and you'd be better off focusing on sealing the inner door off from the cabin (factory plastic cover), than an incomplete thermal barrier with this material. SecondSkin has some specific products designed for temperature and noise insulation if you really want to do it full bore.
I didn't even consider doing inside the door cavity I cover about 95% of my doors over that removable metal cover.
Anyway, couldn't agree more. My c1500 went from tin can to a luxury vehicle. Total game changer.
I agree with James Hall! Do the roof also....man the difference in the sound with nothi g on will make you wonder why you didn't do it sooner! 👍
Also besides the back dont forget the roof, is really thin metal that resonates a lot of sound, Great vid, I know know how much I need for my 2000 sierra extended cab.
I went overkill on my 97 GMC I gutted the doors out and covered everything top to bottom even around the brackets did the roof also all except the floor I put new jute matting. As a bonus I installed Road kill 3 piece speaker foams on and behind the door speakers, made a huge difference to the sound of the music. Took me 3 days because took the doors all the way apart but was worth it for the sound quality and insulation properties. Doors make that nice solid thud sound when closing.
Hey man I've been thinking about those three piece speaker foam kits... Did it make a huge difference? Did you install it exactly as instructed? With that big foam pad stuck against the door skin?
Yes made a huge difference in the sound quality I followed the instructions exactly as it said I guarantee you will not be disappointed! I just wish I would of made a video of the install but I do have pictures I could email them to you.
Can you add double the layer for better results or will that counter act the effect?
Anything under 75dba seems pretty good to me.
You can get some additional improvements by applying the material to the inside of all wheel tubs. Tires produce lots of noise.
sound reduction is multiple steps, normally everybody just does killmat. adding a mass loaded vinyl and foam. really does the job
Good job, great demonstration. When I decide to do this I'll purchase through our link. Thank you.
I really like your channel Jimmy, old suburbans are rare here in Sweden these days but I like your content, merry christmas buddy
I did a similar product in my trunk for subs. I have a 2016 Altima. Even just doing the trunk was a pretty nice project. It does take effort but is always worth it.
Glad I found this video! Rebuilding my 94 k1500 and these trucks have a ton of noise in the cab
Lots of noise! I’m thinking about getting some Havelock Wool... maybe insulating the ceiling.
Dawg quickest, fastest video on kilmat and placements !! 100%
You could also greatly reduce the cabin noise by getting rid of the Blowmaster muffler and replacing it with a drone free black widow venom 250 or 300. Ive owned 4 flowmaster mufflers, super 10, super 40, normal 40 and a 50 and they all droned terrible on me. Made the switch and it greatly reduced my want to deaden my vehicle.
I just purchased this and installed it for my 2 front doors but man the sound is not rattling from speakers like it would or shake the doors hard, the bass is perfection, I'm gonna buy more 80ml 36sqft boxes and i got a chevy impala, i plan to do the whole car may as well lol.
He gives me FixThisBuildThat vibes but for cars, love it!
Nice you are using the trim removal tools to get areas the roller can't fit in, but you can use the end of the roller handle too.
96 Bronco here. I gotta try this stuff.
Russia. Kilmat is made in Russia, I didn't know that. For the money, I'm going to do my sedan. When the back seats are folded down, the interior noise is doubled. I'll have to wait until spring, but I'm putting it on my to do list. Thanks, Jimmy.
Yeah I noticed that too. Interesting.
@@1RoadGarage I bought Noico off of amazon and it seems identical to killmat except the bumps are diamond shaped and there is no branding information printed on it. It also comes from the Russian Federation. Same label as you have. PS, I wouldn't bother with the 50 mil stuff. Stick with the 80 mil.
Thanks for the info. Currently in the process of rebuilding another door for my 1990 Dodge Cummins.
one big parameter that makes your car sound proff is the glasses. double layers acoustic glasses for doors improve a lot the overall sound insulation.
Back about a year ago I used the killmat 80mil and the noico closed cell foam Matt over the Killmat . It made a good difference. My truck is a new body 2007 Silverado ext cab vortec max .
I swear, I got a '95 suburban as well, and it is like the opposite of yours. It has 4 times the miles, lots of sketchy my looking body work. It is otherwise the exact same truck, and still runs like a champ with no major mechanical problems.
Never wanted a 95 Surburban more in my life than now, very nice! btw what sunglasses are you rocking? Thanks for the video.
I had both this older suburban style and I now have a 2005 Denali. To be honest I wish I had the older suburban the Denali has too many bells of whistles. There are computers that control everything and it's really kind of a pain in the butt. I mean don't get me wrong my Denali has a 6.0 all-wheel drive I've changed the exhaust still has the cats but I now have dual Glass packs on it with weed burners. I'm currently eliminating all of the ride packages that came with I've raised to back end about 5" played with the keys up front I'm currently sitting 40 inches of the back 36 and 1/2 in the front. I have new keys for the front but now looking at new lower and upper control arms that will be able to handle the lift. All these modifications would have been so much easier on the older style suburban.
On an older truck like that, replacing the rubber door and window seals will go a long way to reduce wind and road noise as you drive. By this point, original seals are hardened, shrunk a bit, and flattened like a pancake.
I need to do this to the inside of my motorcycle helmet. :-]
Lol it might help
Do it after riding season is over. The off-gassing could take weeks even with a fan on it.
The butyl rubber smells and causes headaches as it cures.
Use hi-fidelity ear plugs brother, it's saved my hearing from getting worse.
I can't wait to see the next video when you do the rear
Me either! Thanks for watching!
Has the video of the rear hatch been done? 3:30
So crazy worth it i wish i would have dynamat my wagon before i put the interior in. My bro used a 50x10ft roll and did the entire inside of his 5.3 swap 63 impala i cant wait to hear how quiet it is once the interior is in 👀
Two things that will significantly and instantly help your ride: a transmission cooler and adding sound deadener. Facts
Badass! Thanks for the video! so glad theres an alternative to the main brand. So much more affordable and actually something I've wanted to do for a while now!
To 1ROAD, I am getting some real humor from your mentioning of "I gotta replace this REAL OLD Bulb". Haha, I gotta replace this Glass Radio Vacuum Tube with this new Fuse!
I have noticed that you mentioned a few times "I am doing the best that I can" and it always reminds me of my OIC yelling at me "Do not ever say you are doing the best that you can. You can, and will always do better!"
Brother, you did a fantastic job. Better than I probably could. Looks good, and most importantly it is functional. That is a lot of work I want to do my vehicle which is an older vehicle with low miles luckily; A 2007 Impala SS with 35K miles.
And you are correct with the [Mil] being a unit of measure but also it stands for 1000ths place. I believe but do not quote me on that.
Hulk 0331 1_3 Charlie CO thanks man!
You did a great job, in case you didn't know they sell deadening spray.👍👍
I miss the old TH-cam because to watch a simple
video and having to endure 23 commercials because I don't pay for it every month is ridiculous..
Nice Video showing with your work..,
And of course you're in California so the weather is probably a lot more suitable for applying that right now. Like I'm in Michigan and it's 20 degrees out right now so I would have to do it inside my barn with the heat on let the car warm up first for that stuff to stick real good. I used dynamat back in the day in my bass competition cars. That stuff works awesome. Their all about the same quality but very different in price. Great job.
That's a lot of work you're a good worker.
A lot of the sound is coming from your muffler area in the back. I had loud exhaust when I was younger and having a cab that goes over it exposes the sound more directly to the cabin floor. Double your Matte back there at least over muffler. Big difference.
I’ve been thinking about doing this to my 2 door 94 Yukon I made up my mind now it’s a go
I think you should do insulation from a source of a sound, bonnet, firewall, fender arches then to move inside a car?
From what I have seen in most videos it’s just a matter of adding bulk to the panels to remove the tinny sound. Then you should come across with a second product such as an aftermarket sound dampened underlay or stick on panel covering
Bringing the sauce yet again! Another great video. I have been thinking of doing this with my 97 2-door for years. You have convinced me I need to get on it.
Hey, I am picking up a 4-door 99 Tahoe to go with my 97 2-door next week! Under 100,000 miles, looks and drives like new. Can't wait.
Sounds like good finds!! What you need to do is start a TH-cam channel and film any fixes you do.
I used 4 boxes of this sound deadener in my Honda spl build. and i still ran out once I got to my floor. But it works wonders. I have almost no road noise. My my bass is crazy loud
I did this to my 2020 tahoe. Used 4 boxes of that kilmat. It's actually like #25 out of 30 of the top deadeners. So actually crappy compared to others.. but for the price is good. I stripped my tahoeninside and did the entire thing top bottom sided etc under seats. But I have 15k watt system and it def works by reducing the vibrations. My truck does not rattle.
Once did this to a van and was told by an audio installer that anything past 25% of a panel is unnecessary weight 🤔i wasn't complaining as the bits I used cost me a bomb and they made it quieter.
I use some M3 heavy duty spray adhesive as a primer. It makes it stick permanently and helps the product from peeling off with high heat from the sun.
Can’t wait to record my install on my channel. Thanks for a great video and explanation
For best result you need two layers. I just did my 2019 Sonata and used about 100 sq ft Kilmat/Noico 80 mil.
what’s these suppose to do , quite tire noise , road noise?
I got a feeling someone's going to put four 15s in the back of their truck
I have a 95 Chevy Suburban as well but it's a 2500 with the 454. I'm going to be doing this to it when I paint it and replace the carpet. I like your videos bro good job!!
A -3dB difference means about HALF the energy radiating from the surfaces, also regarding the audio part, contending with just -3dB of noise will sound like double the speakers power... so, there it is, sound deadening is a must
Smashed the like button before the intro title rolled. Informative and entertaining, infotainment done well. Thanks for the content, must do this on my car soon.
Just a quick tip I learned from the detail guys at dealership. Yank the whole carpet out and just take it to a pressure washer and clean it. You can do the same with the seats as well as crazy as it sounds. They’ll dry fairly quickly on the driveway on a sunny day,pointing a high flow fan even quicker.
If the carpet is still badly stained after cleaning,find a matching spray paint and go to town and it’ll be like new and even stiffen up the nap.
Soak it in simple green for 24 hours first and it will come out like new after pressure washinf
Thanks for this video brother. I love music and thoroughly enjoy driving and cranking the tunes. I will be installing this product for certain this fall.
I love old cars that are clean, that truck is definitely clean
You did sound deadning. You didn't do sound isolation and dispersion / absorption with foam. And as a last measure mass loading vinyl that really does the job. It's a 3 part process. You did part one.
Measurements should be done C weighted 😊
I got an old 1/4 horse mat that I think I'll try it's free
You could spray bed liner I'm sure it would go into any
nook and cranny
Stinger makes a spray on deadener... I'm sure others do too, but I only know of Stinger...
I actually did this to my 1996 4 door Tahoe.?i had the headliner reupholstered and put sound deadener in whole food and I replaced floor carpet and did sound deadener in whole floor and used a mass backing on floor carpet. It makes such a difference. Next is the doors and under hood
stuff like kill mat really kills vibration not sound so much. it's not really a sound deadener if you put some foam and rubber padding ontop of that. you will see significant sound reduction that stuff is cheep n easy to put in
Rust prevention tip: mix petroleum jelly and atf, nuke it into a liquid and pour a little into your body panels. ATF has great detergent properties and the jelly will re-gel, lubricate and insulate those impossible to treat places!
I bet adding it behind the headliner would be a huge help too
I used this materal over the transmission tunnel on my 95 4x4 because of a g56 transmission installed.. . I nevever used the materal before. I just was trying to reduce the noise of the the transmission and the dual disc clutch... after installing the materal i was surprised how much noise was reduced.. i now going to have the head liner replaced. So i going to cover the roof with this or whatever is the best materal .
Be sure to install some on your roof, I did my f250 crew cab it eliminated any rain noise on my truck roof. Will do the floor and doors. Jimmy what about the heat from floor did that help? Thanks for your review install..
Great vid, thanks for the review I bought fat mat last year and this seems a lot cheaper and thicker than fat mat.
Hey I own that radioshack sound level meter. I used it to hand calibrate my surround system 20 years ago.
I put some of this on my jl jeep omg makes a huge difference. I only did the drive train are and back. I plan on doing the roof , doors and entire front floor pan. Plus I'm doing it to my 1998 tj jeep and my gladiator.