Ive got the Service electronic throttle message and throwing codes P200A, P2D2D and P0336. could any of these cause me to be in limp mode? have no acceleration passed 3K RPM. thanks!
@@richdelgzz the first two codes are related to the swirl valves in the intake manifold, probably being jammed up by the soot inside. I wouldn’t worry about that for now, you should focus on the P0336 which is a crankshaft sensor issue. Most likely the reluctor wheel for it. I have another video on that crankshaft sensor. The fact that your engine is running at all, makes me think you’ve had the crankshaft sensor recall done, which was nothing more the reprogramming to allow the engine to continue running off the camshaft sensors. Bottom line - I’d guess the crankshaft reluctor wheel and sensor need to be replaced.
Thanks for the video! Just wish I'd seen it before I spent two hours diagnosing this crank no-start with no codes. I removed the entire throttle actuator as I could not tell which way the blade turned and it was jammed shut. My customer reported it ran perfect the day before and the next morning it was a crank no-start. I have a video on my channel and linked to yours. Its surprising that this is not mentioned as a possibility on Identifix. Do you have any idea what caused it to jam shut? Subbed!
@@PhillipBailey appreciate it! Mine was similiar situation, it was jammed close the following morning. This was a deleted truck, not sure if yours was. I also spent more time than I care to admit, chasing other ideas before I found the faulty throttle body.
Im looking for help i just installed the banks aluminum intake on my ecodiesel now im having clearance issues with the throttle body. Banks said it requires a throttle body delete kit how does the " throttle" work if the body is removed? My truck is fully deleted with a SFT stage 2 tune can anyone help me wrap my head around this concept
@@RGD1982 that throttle plate exists for the functionality of the EGR system. It is not needed whatsoever, otherwise. If your tune has the EGR system disabled, remove the throttle plate. If the stock throttle body doesn’t work with that intake for some other reason, I’m aware Banks makes a dummy aluminum spacer to take its place.
Would this cause a throttle control senor problem? I'm fighting that right now. Ive put two different pedals on no luck. Funny thing is if I let the truck sit for a while it goes away. Can drive it for a month and no problems then it'll just pop up out of nowhere
The “throttle control” message on the screen you’ll see is very generic - it’s referring to everything the computer uses to translate the user demands into increased engine power. I’ve seen boost leaks in the intercooler tubing cause this, as well as a weak lift pump in the tank, and a clogged fuel filter that hadn’t been changed in a long time. So anything that would inhibit the computers ability to increase engine power, will cause that very unhelpful, generic message.
Did you remove this to clear the service electronic throttle control code and if so did it clear it? and after this was removed did you have to retune it? Worried that removing this will lead to more codes and more problems.
Understood, my ecodiesel is deleted but the issue im running into is a service electronic throttle control code, which appears as a red lighting bolt. When the throttle plate was removed did it cause any additional problems or codes to pop up on this truck? I read somewhere that when this is removed, the truck may need to be retuned with the throttle plate removed.@@tadsworkshop
@@pierinachia9936 no, absolutely no retuning necessary with this plate removed. The plate exists so the computer can forcibly draw air through the EGR cooler. On a deleted truck the truck does not care or could be aware if the plate is missing. That red lightning bolt and service message - it is way more generic than you think. A lot of things can cause that - a boost leak in-between the turbo and throttle body, and a faulty throttle pedal, for example. I would inspect everything carefully, and use a scan tool to clear codes (even though they may not exist - send the command anyway to reset the throttle light, that has worked for me before using an Autel 808). But to add to this - maybe the throttle plate is binding which may cause some feedback to the computer, even though technically on a deleted truck it shouldn’t move at all. Just remove the throttle plate, inspect everything I mentioned, clear codes, and keep testing.
@@christopher12336 well I honestly don’t know what anyone’s “stage 1 delete” is, but I’m assuming that’s just DPF system disabled? Remember, the electronic throttle message is not literally referring to the throttle body, but is just a broad warning saying that something is interfering with the computers ability to translate user input into engine output. I’ve seen boost leaks, weak lift pump, and clogged fuel filters cause the “service electronic throttle” message. Scan codes, and if you get any, odds are it’s because the tune has turned out one of several monitors the computer looks after. But for the average guy, check for boost leaks, fuel filter replacement, and consider replacing your lift pump if it’s original and the truck has 140k plus miles.
@@christopher12336 I don’t think so. I would scan the truck and see if there are any trouble codes. If there are none, it’s because the tune deactivates some monitors, like the boost monitor, for example, as a way of manipulating the computer. If it’s possible to do so, maybe reflash the truck with the stock tune. I’m assuming your exhaust is gutted? If so, there will be a lot of codes for that stuff, but you’re looking for something outside of that. But pay attention to what I said above, regarding fuel pump and filter issues, and boost leaks. I have another video on how to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. I’ve seen several times now, a boost leak cause the throttle light.
Very possible. Disconnect the intake tubing at the throttle body and peer inside the throttle body with a mirror to see if the plate is slammed shut. If it is, remove it! Some other ideas for your no-start is the crank sensor or fuel lift pump.
@@vitaliyvotchits5574 yes, connect a scan tool with a graphing function. Watch the output from the crank sensor. Should be a steady signal as the engine is cranking over. If you see a periodic dip, the reluctor ring/wheel may be faulty. But what is your situation? You just deleted the truck, and now it won’t start? But it started fine before correct?
@@tadsworkshop so ye I did the delete tune and it was fine and I drive it to the shop and then I got it on the lift and removed the egr and installed the new exhaust. After that once I got it all back together it just cranks and no start. So I’m super confused now.
I would recommend removing the plastic housing/adapter piece that the intercooler hose connects to. Once that is out of the way, you can readily clean the actual aluminum throttle body.
Ive got the Service electronic throttle message and throwing codes P200A, P2D2D and P0336. could any of these cause me to be in limp mode? have no acceleration passed 3K RPM. thanks!
@@richdelgzz the first two codes are related to the swirl valves in the intake manifold, probably being jammed up by the soot inside. I wouldn’t worry about that for now, you should focus on the P0336 which is a crankshaft sensor issue. Most likely the reluctor wheel for it. I have another video on that crankshaft sensor. The fact that your engine is running at all, makes me think you’ve had the crankshaft sensor recall done, which was nothing more the reprogramming to allow the engine to continue running off the camshaft sensors. Bottom line - I’d guess the crankshaft reluctor wheel and sensor need to be replaced.
Thanks for the video! Just wish I'd seen it before I spent two hours diagnosing this crank no-start with no codes. I removed the entire throttle actuator as I could not tell which way the blade turned and it was jammed shut. My customer reported it ran perfect the day before and the next morning it was a crank no-start. I have a video on my channel and linked to yours. Its surprising that this is not mentioned as a possibility on Identifix. Do you have any idea what caused it to jam shut? Subbed!
@@PhillipBailey appreciate it! Mine was similiar situation, it was jammed close the following morning. This was a deleted truck, not sure if yours was. I also spent more time than I care to admit, chasing other ideas before I found the faulty throttle body.
Im looking for help i just installed the banks aluminum intake on my ecodiesel now im having clearance issues with the throttle body. Banks said it requires a throttle body delete kit how does the " throttle" work if the body is removed? My truck is fully deleted with a SFT stage 2 tune can anyone help me wrap my head around this concept
@@RGD1982 that throttle plate exists for the functionality of the EGR system. It is not needed whatsoever, otherwise. If your tune has the EGR system disabled, remove the throttle plate. If the stock throttle body doesn’t work with that intake for some other reason, I’m aware Banks makes a dummy aluminum spacer to take its place.
Would this cause a throttle control senor problem? I'm fighting that right now. Ive put two different pedals on no luck. Funny thing is if I let the truck sit for a while it goes away. Can drive it for a month and no problems then it'll just pop up out of nowhere
The “throttle control” message on the screen you’ll see is very generic - it’s referring to everything the computer uses to translate the user demands into increased engine power. I’ve seen boost leaks in the intercooler tubing cause this, as well as a weak lift pump in the tank, and a clogged fuel filter that hadn’t been changed in a long time. So anything that would inhibit the computers ability to increase engine power, will cause that very unhelpful, generic message.
I know that lol. The code is literally for the accelerator pedal sensor. P02138 I believe is the code. I'm gonna try this regardless
did it end up working? i’m fighting the same issue
Did you remove this to clear the service electronic throttle control code and if so did it clear it? and after this was removed did you have to retune it? Worried that removing this will lead to more codes and more problems.
No, you can only do this on a truck that is deleted, that is, programmed to forget about the EGR system. This is not intended for a stock ecodiesel.
Understood, my ecodiesel is deleted but the issue im running into is a service electronic throttle control code, which appears as a red lighting bolt. When the throttle plate was removed did it cause any additional problems or codes to pop up on this truck? I read somewhere that when this is removed, the truck may need to be retuned with the throttle plate removed.@@tadsworkshop
@@pierinachia9936 no, absolutely no retuning necessary with this plate removed. The plate exists so the computer can forcibly draw air through the EGR cooler. On a deleted truck the truck does not care or could be aware if the plate is missing. That red lightning bolt and service message - it is way more generic than you think. A lot of things can cause that - a boost leak in-between the turbo and throttle body, and a faulty throttle pedal, for example. I would inspect everything carefully, and use a scan tool to clear codes (even though they may not exist - send the command anyway to reset the throttle light, that has worked for me before using an Autel 808). But to add to this - maybe the throttle plate is binding which may cause some feedback to the computer, even though technically on a deleted truck it shouldn’t move at all. Just remove the throttle plate, inspect everything I mentioned, clear codes, and keep testing.
I have a stage one delete and still have the service electronic throttle control light, I removed the plate and still can’t get the light to stay off
@@christopher12336 well I honestly don’t know what anyone’s “stage 1 delete” is, but I’m assuming that’s just DPF system disabled? Remember, the electronic throttle message is not literally referring to the throttle body, but is just a broad warning saying that something is interfering with the computers ability to translate user input into engine output. I’ve seen boost leaks, weak lift pump, and clogged fuel filters cause the “service electronic throttle” message. Scan codes, and if you get any, odds are it’s because the tune has turned out one of several monitors the computer looks after.
But for the average guy, check for boost leaks, fuel filter replacement, and consider replacing your lift pump if it’s original and the truck has 140k plus miles.
Thanks for the response
Do you think a bad tune can be the cause for the lightning bolt?
@@christopher12336 I don’t think so. I would scan the truck and see if there are any trouble codes. If there are none, it’s because the tune deactivates some monitors, like the boost monitor, for example, as a way of manipulating the computer.
If it’s possible to do so, maybe reflash the truck with the stock tune. I’m assuming your exhaust is gutted? If so, there will be a lot of codes for that stuff, but you’re looking for something outside of that.
But pay attention to what I said above, regarding fuel pump and filter issues, and boost leaks. I have another video on how to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. I’ve seen several times now, a boost leak cause the throttle light.
Great thanks for the info I’ll have to look for a boost leak if I don’t find that I’ll try to replace the fuel lift pump
what about the swivel plates in side the intake manifold. cam you remove on a deleted truck
Yes. I answered your question on the other video.
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I just did a delete and now I have a crank no start? Do you think this could be my issue?
Very possible. Disconnect the intake tubing at the throttle body and peer inside the throttle body with a mirror to see if the plate is slammed shut. If it is, remove it! Some other ideas for your no-start is the crank sensor or fuel lift pump.
@@tadsworkshop I know I can hear the lift pump running, so that seems to be ok. Is there a way to check the crank sensor?
@@vitaliyvotchits5574 yes, connect a scan tool with a graphing function. Watch the output from the crank sensor. Should be a steady signal as the engine is cranking over. If you see a periodic dip, the reluctor ring/wheel may be faulty. But what is your situation? You just deleted the truck, and now it won’t start? But it started fine before correct?
@@tadsworkshop so ye I did the delete tune and it was fine and I drive it to the shop and then I got it on the lift and removed the egr and installed the new exhaust. After that once I got it all back together it just cranks and no start. So I’m super confused now.
@@vitaliyvotchits5574 it also sounds like an error with the programming tune….any codes popping up?
Would be any fear of a “run away” situation with this removed?
No, a runaway situation in a diesel is caused from loss of fuel control. This valve exists solely for the functionality of the egr system. That is it.
Is it possible to clean this without removing the throttle body completely?
I would recommend removing the plastic housing/adapter piece that the intercooler hose connects to. Once that is out of the way, you can readily clean the actual aluminum throttle body.
I wouldn't throw any of your deleted stuff away.. They just might bring back emissions testing😮... Good video though..
Luckily it’s never been an issue here in Michigan, but I get your point. Also, customers truck, not my own.
@@tadsworkshop Believe it or not, we had that years ago here in Windy Florida. a peninsula state like michigan..