Ngl sir, my brain relates to your mindset. You do things that others don’t. You figure things out when others don’t. If something isn’t working like you imagine you work through it in a logical mindset. Good work man. Hell yeeeeeeeee!
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Its a win win situation if it doesn't go outside in the air the government is happy, if it stays inside the engine and blows up the manufacturers are happy, they get you to buy a new one
Thanks for the heads up on this. No issues at 127,000 miles right now. But dropping my pan next weekend just to be safe (not driving the truck between now and then anyway). Keep that Ram content coming!
I bought a 4 cylinder car off an old man. It had low mileage but he didn’t do enough oil changes. It had sludge like that all through the engine. I took the pan off and cleaned the pick up like u did. Cleaned the pan out, I took the valve cover off and was digging dried up sludge out of the head with a screw driver and shop vac. Messy job but got it much cleaner. Gave it a few oil changes. It never blew up but overall better. It’s still going strong. Even turbo’d it :)
I bought my eco diesel for dirt cheap because it had low oil pressure. First I did was drop the oil pan and my pickup valve looked the exact same. I cleaned it off with brake clean and it runs perfect. I haven’t had any problems.
Update: 2016 EcoDiesel - deleted 4000 miles ago - Dropped the oil pan today. Nothing like this was seen in my oil pan or my pickup tube. Changed my oil every 4000 to 5000 miles using only Rotella T6 5-40. Guess the detergent in Rotella is better at breaking down the sludge. I would recommend using a different oil sir. My truck has 109k miles on it.
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Similar here. 156k miles and no such sludge anywhere. Deleted at 36k miles and Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 ever since. I think this is a testiment to both removing the EGR system as well as the quality of the detergents in T6.
Very interesting video. I use HOT SHOTS SECRET EDT with every tank of fuel. We also have a '16 Ram 1500 4wd Ecodiesel, and a '18 Ram 2500 4wd 6.7L Cummins. The fuel quality of diesel is awful. I use the WIX fuel filter because it seems to capture more dirt in the fuel. I started using the R-95 & R-99 fuel. The fuel filters were way cleaner after that.
It is not fuel that is the issue here. It is carbon build up because( as has been said) the engine breathing it’s own shit because of the EGR system used on these engines. You may have the cleanest fuel in town but the carbon build up via the oil contamination will continue if you have one of these engines using an EGR system. This engine is notorious for this issue, others not so much.
@robertdorr1769 - Fuel is an issue. Cleaner combustion from adding the Hot Shots Secret EDT, really helps cut down on regens and keeps the EGR and DPF cleaner. Also most Cummins 6.7L owners don't know how to use high idle. Which runs the engine @ 1,100rpm for a faster warmup. When I had to take a nap at the Coso Junction rest area in 110° heat. Using the high idle allowed use of the air conditioning while I napped for a few hours. And the DPF did not build up much at all. Just 2%.
Have you cleaned out the intake manifold. haha I just did and pulled out about 2lbs of gunk. I will be doing this now!!! Thanks for the intel..... And not too harsh, FJB!!
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
I know you said you did a flush. Have you tried the BG oil flush kit? It’s not the add it to your oil kind of flush, has several steps. You drain the oil and change the filter, then run the cleaner through it on high idle for quite a while. Drain, change filter. Add the rinse oil, run at high idle. Drain, change filter and then fill with your regular oil. I’ve had a couple old crusty diesel’s that were sludge and carbon filled messes, the top end and pulling the pan they were remarkably clean. It wouldn’t have cleaned that nasty pickup tube but it will clear out your galleys and such. I’ve also used the CRO 505 carbon cleaner in the next change and it pulled even more deposits out. A clean engine is a happy engine. Never owned a Dodge but several Fords that got sludgy, nothing like yours. 😳
Every third oil change I run hotshots stiction eliminator to help clean put all the soot that builds up in the oil gallies and every where else. I replace 2 qts of oil since it's a 2qt bottle. Check out Insane Diesels oil filter system. I believe it will solve all these issues
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Thank you for such a great information. I will never think about this matter, I was happy just changing the oil. But I do have some problems with the (CPR )could be related with that. I love the Ram 1500 ecodiesel
Just wait till your $2 coolant hose that feeds the turbo which is located in the Valley splits open... Enjoy the 4 days works or $5000 if you pay someone
@HunterTuned When you look up the Italian manufacturer of these engines on Wiki.... 250,000 produced, 50,000 failed. And its an apparent award winning engine. Such a shame, as when running they are brilliant... it's just owning one with 150k + is like holding a hand grenade
@@mountainconstructions The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Just watched your vid Thanks for the heads up. I've had my weight reduction eco since new in 16. 200,000 miles and it's running flawless except for a blown turbo coolant line and a blown exhaust manifold gasket which throws my truck into limp mode from a lack of boost from time to time. I just reflash it and it's up running like new again. One day I'll lift the cab and replace that manifold gasket. I tow 10000 lb camper and boat with it. I'm sure it's gotten that manifold hot a few times. Love the truck like too. I put Amsoil in all fluids. 💯🤙🤙
I drain mine for an hour and im just gonna pull this bastard. thank you man. thank you - i love my truck. its deleted now so i NEED to do this---- nothing was in there, you are using the wrong oil dude - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Was an oil analysis done in the past? What additives did you use? Something went wrong somewhere with the additives as the soot doesn't normally become solid. The soot is carbon and if it exists as soft sheets we call it graphite and they slide past each other. Of course all those crystals for under heat and pressure, but something else happened for it to chunk up in the pan.
He’s using the wrong oil! Neither the Shaeffers or Rotella are Chrysler MS-12991 rated. They come from the factory with Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec 5w-40. Quaker State Euro 5w-40, as well as Mobil-1, Valvoline, and Castrol Euro Spec 5w-40.
I only run Rotella t6 5w-40 I feel like that truck had shit oil in it a long time ago. I send my oil to blackstone labs every oil change at 5k miles. Never had any tests come back even close to bad.
@@johnkilgore1055 Rotella T-6 is actually recommended by Chrysler, they stopped using the Chrysler oil years ago, look it up. He is definitely using the wrong oil. Use Rotella T-6 5w40 in my 2016, I dropped the pan when I saw this and mine was clean and nothing in the pan.
Great video! I've had a '16 ecodiesel almost two years now and did the weight reductions along the way. Definitely like the truck a lot and I'm for sure interested in the longevity mods that you're talking about. Hope you make vids about them. Might as well try to keep the engines running as long as possible. Just wondering about your opinion about the oil pressure read-out on the digital dash "vehicle information" screen. Mine usually shows 40-50 psi oil pressure on cold start-up but also occasionally reads as low as 19/20 ish. I'm going to do this screen cleaning regardless but just for my info, is that accurate or where does it get the data? ECM? thanks again, Hunter!
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
@@HunterTuned GDE used to offer it. You replace the fake sensor with a real one, so I get actual oil pressure and not estimated on my dash. It was such a good option when they offered it, then when epa came in they for whatever reason cannot sell the mod on a tune anymore. I did it in 2016, you had to replace the sensor on the oil cooler housing for a different mopar one. Then do something else that I forget, I think cap another plug.
My brother use to clean his motors with 2-3 gallons of diesel and run it for 10 minutes or so and flush out all that sludge on several LS motors, I’m sure that’d work on this as well to make sure ask sludge is cleaned out
Thank you! Nearing 140K and I have issues with my ecodiesel (2016) turning off randomly when I come to a stop with the sign “oil pressure low”. I bet this is the problem! I also have to clean the EGR and Map sensor again because I’ll also have the “service electronic throttle” come up. So my truck is just turning off or going into limp mode on me and it’s my daily driver. Doing this today! Also will be looking to do an engine oil flush. Any recommendations for a really good one? Even if multiple steps? Lastly, my HVAC stopped blowing air. Condenser is working as I can feel ac is cold, and when I turn on the A/C, I hear it wanting to start. So replacing the blower motor today too, as well as a taillight and a side mirror😂 but I love my truck. I agree it is comfortable and does it all really well! Hopefully I come back with a good update. Thanks again!
This is why the old timers poured diesel fuel through their engine every oil change. Curious, do you let the engine idle a lot? stop and go traffic, short trips? Thinking about buying a Grand Cherokee with the eco diesel at 85k on the clock, my use would be short trips around town with a little highway use.
Switch oil to a Chrysler MS-12991 spec Oil. (European Synthetic 5w-40) such as Castrol, Mobil-1, or Pennzoil. Also use the “Hot Shots” every day fuel treatment.
WRONG - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
The copper seals start to leak by at the bottom and then combustion gasses make their way up and go under the valve cover because of the design of the gasket at the top of the injector. On most engines it leaks straight up and builds up around the injector good (Mercedes black death) but not on these instead it blows under the valve cover and causes this. It's not a well known problem but I've seen it a few times now
@@gregmoessner3104 I have one and will die with it. The best vehicle I have ever owned with the dreamy silky smooth no smell Diesel. The problem is rare and was trying to find out my self if they changed it on the 3rd gen.
EGR delete I put a green diesel tune on my pick up back in the day before EPA got all over him. You better check your manifold because it’s probably full the same shit. Good luck.
Seen your video of the leaking injector did you get that fixed and what was the outcome of it fixed? Got yourself a new subscriber with the informative info on this ecodiesel thanks alot for the content Love my ecodiesel as well, best vehicle i ever bought trying to keep it on the road as long as possible
Anybody else that has this issue check your injector seals to verify compression isn't blowing by your injector into your engine through your valve cover.
That's simply not possible. If the crush washer were failed, the pressure would pop out the injector's dust seal on the v/c to the atmosphere in the engine compartment, not go into the engine. You would know it for sure if compression were leaking. If the v/c were compromised in any way, there would be a HUGE engine oil leak.
I have a Jeep ecodiesel that has 4000 miles, it's still new, and Im getting low oil pressure warnings. This is after the stealer did the first oil change
I have a dream scenario where I get to take my car down to Cali and have young static swap it, the. Take it up north and have hunter tuned tune it 😭 someday!
My original engine blew at 134,000 The main bearing went tore everything apart. I didn't delete it soon enough. When I put the new engine in at a cost of 13,000 I deleted it from km 0 the emissions ruined this engine it's great deleted
I’ve never seen sludge on a pickup tube in my life… and that’s after you flushed it and changed the oil a few times. That’s crazy. I think banks has something to help tack that out.
he used the wrong oil with the wrong detergents. The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Yup. Idling and short runs around town, never getting temps up, is enemy of all these emissions controlled diesels. They are not right for picking up the mail and groceries downtown and never getting warmed up.
Dude, My "lightened" 08, 6.7 is CLEAN as new (Blackstone Labs Verified every change @10-12k) and it's got about 240k. Truck has 416k, original engine wasn't "lightened" so previous owner had to replace it.
He is using the wrong oil, even though its easy to look up and see they changed it to this - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
@@turboleggy WRONG - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states: We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
The EGR in these is criminal! How is it saving the environment if it makes you burn more fuel? I love mine and have had a tune that turns off the EGR since new. Fingers crossed it lasts.
It's crazy they still use those dummy gauges. It's like we are still in the 90s early 2000s lol
Ngl sir, my brain relates to your mindset. You do things that others don’t. You figure things out when others don’t. If something isn’t working like you imagine you work through it in a logical mindset. Good work man. Hell yeeeeeeeee!
Had identical symptoms and an identical looking pickup tube. Thanks so much for the video. Feel like I owe you.
@@danbaradoy771 glad I could help
What oil were you using? my 2016 pickup tube was clear, and so was my oilpan. Rotella T-6 here
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
@@Tolbat Mine too.
Its a win win situation if it doesn't go outside in the air the government is happy, if it stays inside the engine and blows up the manufacturers are happy, they get you to buy a new one
Thanks for the heads up on this. No issues at 127,000 miles right now. But dropping my pan next weekend just to be safe (not driving the truck between now and then anyway). Keep that Ram content coming!
You should try to sue the EPA for knowingly causing destruction of diesel engines.
Not a mopar guy, but good info. Bet you saved a couple hundred trucks with this!
I bought a 4 cylinder car off an old man. It had low mileage but he didn’t do enough oil changes. It had sludge like that all through the engine. I took the pan off and cleaned the pick up like u did. Cleaned the pan out, I took the valve cover off and was digging dried up sludge out of the head with a screw driver and shop vac. Messy job but got it much cleaner.
Gave it a few oil changes. It never blew up but overall better. It’s still going strong. Even turbo’d it :)
u got a sub for the FJB comment! appreciate ya!
Thank God for guys like you! We all owe you a couple beers. Thanks for sharing!
I bought my eco diesel for dirt cheap because it had low oil pressure. First I did was drop the oil pan and my pickup valve looked the exact same. I cleaned it off with brake clean and it runs perfect. I haven’t had any problems.
@@tristanawrey6568 replace the valve covers and injector seals next that’s what caused mine to plug
Great information. Im having same troubles now with my ecodiesel. And I loved the FJB comment. Made me laugh and still laughing at it.
Thanks for the video. Clearly pride of ownership is important to you and that is appreciated.
Update: 2016 EcoDiesel - deleted 4000 miles ago - Dropped the oil pan today. Nothing like this was seen in my oil pan or my pickup tube. Changed my oil every 4000 to 5000 miles using only Rotella T6 5-40. Guess the detergent in Rotella is better at breaking down the sludge. I would recommend using a different oil sir. My truck has 109k miles on it.
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Similar here. 156k miles and no such sludge anywhere. Deleted at 36k miles and Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 ever since. I think this is a testiment to both removing the EGR system as well as the quality of the detergents in T6.
Same here. Rotella oil every 4 thousand miles.
Oil pan and filters look good.
We had the sludje problems by VW i the 80's no eco crap or electronics, turned out quality of the oil was the problem.
T6 for 250k miles. 5k changes thru 150k, back to 10k changes since. No issues. Someone disrespected that truck early in its life.
Sounds like you need to start using Seafoam in your engine.
Very interesting video. I use HOT SHOTS SECRET EDT with every tank of fuel. We also have a '16 Ram 1500 4wd Ecodiesel, and a '18 Ram 2500 4wd 6.7L Cummins. The fuel quality of diesel is awful. I use the WIX fuel filter because it seems to capture more dirt in the fuel. I started using the R-95 & R-99 fuel. The fuel filters were way cleaner after that.
I just did my 2016 eco diesel and did not have any of this in my engine. 109k miles 105k undeleted.
@@Tolbat My engine is 172k miles. It passes the California smog inspection.
It is not fuel that is the issue here. It is carbon build up because( as has been said) the engine breathing it’s own shit because of the EGR system used on these engines. You may have the cleanest fuel in town but the carbon build up via the oil contamination will continue if you have one of these engines using an EGR system. This engine is notorious for this issue, others not so much.
@robertdorr1769 - Fuel is an issue. Cleaner combustion from adding the Hot Shots Secret EDT, really helps cut down on regens and keeps the EGR and DPF cleaner. Also most Cummins 6.7L owners don't know how to use high idle. Which runs the engine @ 1,100rpm for a faster warmup. When I had to take a nap at the Coso Junction rest area in 110° heat. Using the high idle allowed use of the air conditioning while I napped for a few hours. And the DPF did not build up much at all. Just 2%.
Excellent information. Thank you. Just purchased a 2016 Limited and am learning about these POV diesels.
Have you cleaned out the intake manifold. haha I just did and pulled out about 2lbs of gunk. I will be doing this now!!! Thanks for the intel..... And not too harsh, FJB!!
Appreciate your video. Definitely going to look into it this weekend. Saved me from another $1000+ repair
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
I know you said you did a flush. Have you tried the BG oil flush kit? It’s not the add it to your oil kind of flush, has several steps. You drain the oil and change the filter, then run the cleaner through it on high idle for quite a while. Drain, change filter. Add the rinse oil, run at high idle. Drain, change filter and then fill with your regular oil.
I’ve had a couple old crusty diesel’s that were sludge and carbon filled messes, the top end and pulling the pan they were remarkably clean. It wouldn’t have cleaned that nasty pickup tube but it will clear out your galleys and such.
I’ve also used the CRO 505 carbon cleaner in the next change and it pulled even more deposits out.
A clean engine is a happy engine. Never owned a Dodge but several Fords that got sludgy, nothing like yours. 😳
Every third oil change I run hotshots stiction eliminator to help clean put all the soot that builds up in the oil gallies and every where else. I replace 2 qts of oil since it's a 2qt bottle. Check out Insane Diesels oil filter system. I believe it will solve all these issues
Thank you. My son bout 2017. Best vehicle ever.
I feel ya brother I just blew my ecodiesel up today and when I pull the pan I have a feeling this is the cause
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Thank you for such a great information. I will never think about this matter, I was happy just changing the oil. But I do have some problems with the (CPR )could be related with that. I love the Ram 1500 ecodiesel
When you resurculate, they exhaust.Nothing is supposed to eat its own shit and live.
Just wait till your $2 coolant hose that feeds the turbo which is located in the Valley splits open...
Enjoy the 4 days works or $5000 if you pay someone
@@mountainconstructions I replaced it already with the stainless upgrade
@HunterTuned When you look up the Italian manufacturer of these engines on Wiki.... 250,000 produced, 50,000 failed.
And its an apparent award winning engine.
Such a shame, as when running they are brilliant... it's just owning one with 150k + is like holding a hand grenade
@@mountainconstructions The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
@@HunterTuned any videos of that (coolant hose that feeds the turbo) upgrade ?
@@TolbatYou just copy/ paste spamming? What's your point?
You saved my 2014 ecodiesel!
Did you take yours off and look?
@@maisondillin9279 nothing was in my 2016
Just watched your vid
Thanks for the heads up. I've had my weight reduction eco since new in 16. 200,000 miles and it's running flawless except for a blown turbo coolant line and a blown exhaust manifold gasket which throws my truck into limp mode from a lack of boost from time to time. I just reflash it and it's up running like new again. One day I'll lift the cab and replace that manifold gasket. I tow 10000 lb camper and boat with it. I'm sure it's gotten that manifold hot a few times. Love the truck like too. I put Amsoil in all fluids. 💯🤙🤙
I drain mine for an hour and im just gonna pull this bastard. thank you man. thank you - i love my truck. its deleted now so i NEED to do this---- nothing was in there, you are using the wrong oil dude - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
As of today the engines are now $17,000 for a new Mopar crate engine. Double what they started out at.
I did this on mine couple of years ago and the oils been clean ever since
I was wondering why every time I change my oil it gets so dirty right away. I will definitely do this. I appreciate you and I will subscribe. Thanks.
38000 dollars for engine in Canada, Same issues with my truck, thanks.
Ive seen that on a few 5.3s. Never once on a deisel. Thats nuts.
Good job dodge.
If you have a video on, how did you take that oil pan off? I would appreciate it. Thanks.
Good advice. No fan of EGR, just sayin: A Ram owner blaming the Ecodiesel on Biden is like me blamin my 6.0 powerstroke on Bush.
Was an oil analysis done in the past? What additives did you use?
Something went wrong somewhere with the additives as the soot doesn't normally become solid. The soot is carbon and if it exists as soft sheets we call it graphite and they slide past each other. Of course all those crystals for under heat and pressure, but something else happened for it to chunk up in the pan.
He’s using the wrong oil! Neither the Shaeffers or Rotella are Chrysler MS-12991 rated.
They come from the factory with Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec 5w-40. Quaker State Euro 5w-40, as well as Mobil-1, Valvoline, and Castrol Euro Spec 5w-40.
I only run Rotella t6 5w-40 I feel like that truck had shit oil in it a long time ago. I send my oil to blackstone labs every oil change at 5k miles. Never had any tests come back even close to bad.
T6 is low ash,,recommended..@Kyle-mo5si
@@johnkilgore1055uh Schaeffer's surpasses the Chrysler spec
@@johnkilgore1055 Rotella T-6 is actually recommended by Chrysler, they stopped using the Chrysler oil years ago, look it up. He is definitely using the wrong oil. Use Rotella T-6 5w40 in my 2016, I dropped the pan when I saw this and mine was clean and nothing in the pan.
Great video! I've had a '16 ecodiesel almost two years now and did the weight reductions along the way. Definitely like the truck a lot and I'm for sure interested in the longevity mods that you're talking about. Hope you make vids about them. Might as well try to keep the engines running as long as possible. Just wondering about your opinion about the oil pressure read-out on the digital dash "vehicle information" screen. Mine usually shows 40-50 psi oil pressure on cold start-up but also occasionally reads as low as 19/20 ish. I'm going to do this screen cleaning regardless but just for my info, is that accurate or where does it get the data? ECM? thanks again, Hunter!
That reading is a croc of shit. It’s not anything near actual
@@HunterTuned understood. thanks for the reply!
That reading is a crock of shit? Because you put a oil pressure gauge on it And compared?
The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Thank you. Will do this asap
Glad I have the GDE oil pressure mod with my tune that I got from 2016. I scoped my truck and I have no sludge, been deleted since 30k miles.
What’s the oil pressure mod?
Yeah what oil pressure mod?
By the way Hunter how many miles on your truck?
@@HunterTuned GDE used to offer it. You replace the fake sensor with a real one, so I get actual oil pressure and not estimated on my dash. It was such a good option when they offered it, then when epa came in they for whatever reason cannot sell the mod on a tune anymore. I did it in 2016, you had to replace the sensor on the oil cooler housing for a different mopar one. Then do something else that I forget, I think cap another plug.
@@stevenr8353 I’m at 132k
My brother use to clean his motors with 2-3 gallons of diesel and run it for 10 minutes or so and flush out all that sludge on several LS motors, I’m sure that’d work on this as well to make sure ask sludge is cleaned out
Eco oil starvation. Try using shell rotella. See if u get less sludge. 10k for an engine . Is a lot of hard working hours
Been using T6 forever. New rod bearings at 150k NO sludge. Got 180 now.
109k 105k as a shit eater. no sludge use T6 rotella as it is recommended.
I thank you for your video and want to install mechanical oil pressure gauge ,where is that switch located ?
Try using Power Service in your deisel fuel, i drove 18 wheelers for 30 yrs and used it religiously...never had sludge or oil problems.
Thank you! Nearing 140K and I have issues with my ecodiesel (2016) turning off randomly when I come to a stop with the sign “oil pressure low”. I bet this is the problem! I also have to clean the EGR and Map sensor again because I’ll also have the “service electronic throttle” come up. So my truck is just turning off or going into limp mode on me and it’s my daily driver. Doing this today!
Also will be looking to do an engine oil flush. Any recommendations for a really good one? Even if multiple steps?
Lastly, my HVAC stopped blowing air. Condenser is working as I can feel ac is cold, and when I turn on the A/C, I hear it wanting to start. So replacing the blower motor today too, as well as a taillight and a side mirror😂 but I love my truck. I agree it is comfortable and does it all really well! Hopefully I come back with a good update. Thanks again!
This is why the old timers poured diesel fuel through their engine every oil change. Curious, do you let the engine idle a lot? stop and go traffic, short trips? Thinking about buying a Grand Cherokee with the eco diesel at 85k on the clock, my use would be short trips around town with a little highway use.
Switch oil to a Chrysler MS-12991 spec Oil. (European Synthetic 5w-40) such as Castrol, Mobil-1, or Pennzoil. Also use the “Hot Shots” every day fuel treatment.
Schaeffer's is better than any of these oils
WRONG - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
How did you burp the coolant system
after the EGR delete?
Check your valve cover gaskets snd injector seals that where the soot is getting in.
Thanks for the tip. I will check it out cause it still keeps building up in the pickup.
The copper seals start to leak by at the bottom and then combustion gasses make their way up and go under the valve cover because of the design of the gasket at the top of the injector. On most engines it leaks straight up and builds up around the injector good (Mercedes black death) but not on these instead it blows under the valve cover and causes this. It's not a well known problem but I've seen it a few times now
@@Dslrepairpro this is the second GEN engine. Does the problem also occur on the third GEN engine?
I want to pull the pin on the last generation eco-diesel gladiator. I want to know if this has been fixed.
@@gregmoessner3104 I have one and will die with it. The best vehicle I have ever owned with the dreamy silky smooth no smell Diesel. The problem is rare and was trying to find out my self if they changed it on the 3rd gen.
Wish I noticed this video before my truck ended up with now oil pressure
EGR delete I put a green diesel tune on my pick up back in the day before EPA got all over him. You better check your manifold because it’s probably full the same shit. Good luck.
Use your shop vac first
There is your culprit for all the mysteriously "BLOWN" engines!!!
This is an excellent video, great information
Thank you so much!!!!
Crazy I've got a 2015 absolutely nothing but trouble
Seen your video of the leaking injector did you get that fixed and what was the outcome of it fixed?
Got yourself a new subscriber with the informative info on this ecodiesel thanks alot for the content
Love my ecodiesel as well, best vehicle i ever bought trying to keep it on the road as long as possible
Great Video! What RTV brand did you use?
Anybody else that has this issue check your injector seals to verify compression isn't blowing by your injector into your engine through your valve cover.
That's simply not possible.
If the crush washer were failed, the pressure would pop out the injector's dust seal on the v/c to the atmosphere in the engine compartment, not go into the engine. You would know it for sure if compression were leaking.
If the v/c were compromised in any way, there would be a HUGE engine oil leak.
@@lukemalloy2488 Look into it. Ask channel owner what he found after his engine started doing it again. Completely possible because it happens a lot.
How do I do this on a gen 3
I have a Jeep ecodiesel that has 4000 miles, it's still new, and Im getting low oil pressure warnings.
This is after the stealer did the first oil change
they screwed something up
Nice video! Want to do mine? It’s a 22 lol
Should do one quart of diesel in the oil and run it on idle to 2000rpm until warm and drain the oil. It will loosen the dirt so it will drain out
Yes but careful, that will lower the viscosity making cold starts iffy on the bearings.
🤣☝
By fucking Al Gore got me bro
Excellent video SIR.
(Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 Euro). Folks this is a European Engine, make sure the spec of the oil your using meets, MS-12991 spec and API SP
But I don’t think the European engines required the EGR system which is responsible for this fault so the oil may not be the cure all you suggest.
I have a dream scenario where I get to take my car down to Cali and have young static swap it, the. Take it up north and have hunter tuned tune it 😭 someday!
My original engine blew at 134,000 The main bearing went tore everything apart. I didn't delete it soon enough. When I put the new engine in at a cost of 13,000 I deleted it from km 0 the emissions ruined this engine it's great deleted
Great video!!!!! Dude do a follow-up on this topic
does delete def & open up exhaust help reduce sludge?
Sideview Mom and baby update...
I had a 2016 ED, I wish I would have kept it. 40k no issues. But I did have it tuned. Agreed with the EPA, they're a joke!
Check your intake manifold and see why your EGR sooting the other side
Damn you Al Gore.
Blow by from combustion, excessive soot I would assume from the weight reduction. Gets trapped in the oil and falls to the bottom.
"Blow by" is expected, why crankcase ventilation is a thing. It's not stock, wasn't designed to be used that way, pay to play scenario.
More fun shit I get to look forward to doing on my wifes ecodiesel!
Who makes shapers or shafers oil???
It may be time to pull off your intake manifold… I’m sure it is clogged full of soot.
Do you think an oil catch can will help?
Do you have the link for the mechanical gauge and the fiting for swap with the oil pressure sensor?
I’ve never seen sludge on a pickup tube in my life… and that’s after you flushed it and changed the oil a few times. That’s crazy. I think banks has something to help tack that out.
he used the wrong oil with the wrong detergents. The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
God bless you for this video
Thank's for this info 👍
what oil were you using?
Damn this was a good video!!
and it runs on highwaay without oil pressure for hours and someone say it is a bad engine, it is a great engine if you remove eco norms
How many miles on the Truck when you found this sludge clogging the return tube?
I do know these trucks like to put some mileage on when you run them. Do you do a bunch of just short drives in it??
Yup. Idling and short runs around town, never getting temps up, is enemy of all these emissions controlled diesels. They are not right for picking up the mail and groceries downtown and never getting warmed up.
Yo I’m in Oshkosh I have a c10 5.3 terminator x can u help me dyno tune
How’s it making out now since the delete and cleaning? What company did you use for parts and tune?
Dude, My "lightened" 08, 6.7 is CLEAN as new (Blackstone Labs Verified every change @10-12k) and it's got about 240k. Truck has 416k, original engine wasn't "lightened" so previous owner had to replace it.
Thank you
What mileage was on the truck when you acquired it?
He is using the wrong oil, even though its easy to look up and see they changed it to this - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Just change the oil sooner...like 7k miles...use a better oil than that like liqui moly or fuchs titan...
Amsoil MS is the best. Penzoil Platnum is fine but shears around 7k miles.
@@turboleggy WRONG - The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.
Great video.
Dpf def egr delete is a must 🤫
Did the Schaffer's oil fail?
How many km's on the motor.
129000 miles. Conversion = Google
I wonder if a person could scope out the condition of the pick up tube using some kind of borescope?
You cant see the pickup screen with a borescope, knock the lower pan off, takes 10 mins.
I had to replace my intake and it was so disgusting it was full of sludge toward the engine light was on
The EGR in these is criminal! How is it saving the environment if it makes you burn more fuel? I love mine and have had a tune that turns off the EGR since new. Fingers crossed it lasts.