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@@MattW-z4i in the case of this truck, it was largely due to the oil leak. Sure, I could’ve replaced just the gasket/seal, but you have to remember you have both coolant and oil passing through it, and on a high mileage engine it’s not unknown (on any engine) for oil coolers to fail and the two fluids get mixed up. So at the time, for $300 some dollars, I would just as soon replace the unit. And yes, regarding your low oil pressure, I’m sure it’s just the oil pressure sending unit, which is the sensor on this unit. Prices fluctuate on this oil cooler over the years, so if it is reasonably priced, replace the entire thing and move on.

@@J1I9M7M4Y really appreciate it. In hindsight, I’d recommend a dab of black RTV such as what you’d find at any parts store. And it’s just for the sake of holding them firmly in place. Is it needed? No, just exercise care so none of them fall out and into an intake runner while you’re reinstalling! I have installed manifolds without applying any sort of epoxy or RTV.

@@tadsworkshop Thank`s for the quick response and advice! You earned a new subscriber!!

@@michaelstoltz4745 thank you, I appreciate it! Order up a gates water pump and that fel-pro O-ring that I have listed in the video description. Take your time and exercise care with the small plastic bypass tube you’ll see.

​@tadsworkshop I ordered the Oring and the thernoatat. I've already replaced the bypass tube. The old one broke up.when I started pulling on it.

@@Samuel-Andrade I think Kia doesn’t give a timing chain replacement interval, but my opinion is every 160,000-190,000 km.

@@bobcat23462 fair enough, your right. I posted that link just to give an idea, but that particular tool just can’t handle any substantial torque. I had the same thing happen to me. I’ll find an alternative tool and change the link.

@@stiksandstones nope. Just as you see here, I never had to bother with removing the front bumper or radiator support. Just remove cat, heat shields, etc. an inspection mirror is handy so you can see around corners.

@@denzelcrocker4956 I don’t remember bothering. I’m just going off memory here, but there was no hood light, and even with the hood ajar, it shouldn’t affect the modules going to sleep after 30mins to an hour.

I found Out, that my navigation drained the battery. Now it is at 0,09 on my clamp. Is that good? Or still top much?

@ is that 0.090 amps? Otherwise you mean 90ma? That’s just a touch high but that’s really not that bad. I would hope to see, for any car, the current to drop to 0.050 amps (50ma) or less. But 0.090? I’d wait a bit longer to see if it drops any further. Remember, if you disturb your connections, it will reset everything and the process will start all over.

@@tadsworkshop the Clamp measures in A. So i would guess 90mA. I waited an additional 1 Hour on the car and it stayed the same

@@denzelcrocker4956ammeter clamps are a little inaccurate when it comes to really low current flow like that. I’d encourage you do the same test but with the leads inline. Be careful not to blow the fuse in your multimeter. Most are only 10 amps, some 15. But given what you’ve told me, it sounds like you’re doing ok as far as parasitic draws go. Just try the same test with the leads.

@@jasonlevick2627 no. Inspect your dowel pins and their respective holes in the timing cover. Make sure it’s free of corrosion. I’ll normally put a little bit of grease on them. But otherwise, all you can do is take it back off and carefully inspect. Be careful not to break/damage that cover.

@@tadsworkshop I cant get it to fit over the crankshaft. i can get it started, but it wont slide all the way on.

@@jasonlevick2627strange. I wish I had some advice to help you, but it’s been a while since I did this job. There should be no resistance by the crankshaft. The only resistance should be those dowel pins when remounting. You may have to pull that timing cover off and carefully, carefully inspect everything and see what the heck is binding.

@@tadsworkshop thanks for trying to help!

@@bobcat23462 your no bother; feel free to ask as much as you want. You’ve got the right idea, that’s pretty much what I do. Vacuum cleaner is a must. I attack the top of the intake runners (the ones cast into the heads) with a razor blade, and further on down, I use a screwdriver or a small scraper. Keep in mind some intake valves will be open. Avoid dropping clumps of soot down in there, but it’s not the end of the world and to some extent, almost unavoidable. If the valve is closed I’ll use compressed air to blow the chunks of soot up the intake port and into the vacuum. It’s definitely a good idea to do this. I swear I’ve felt some trucks feel more responsive after doing this, which isn’t surprising given how dramatic the restrictions can be.

@@LuisLopez-sc3tc No, I’ve never had to program the crankshaft sensor. Simply remove and replace. When you say it doesn’t turn on anymore, what exactly does that mean? It doesn’t crank over whatsoever?

Just make sure to give it lots of time to drop from that 4.25amps. Allow it up to 20 minutes. Also, disturbing your multimeter leads or connections will obviously upset and reset the electronics that are drawing that 4.25 amps and start the cycle again.

@@makramchibani9498 it does not cause any problems on a deleted truck. On a stock truck, it will cause issues with the EGR system. I’d imagine the check engine light would come on, but I don’t think any driveability issues would come up.

Thanks for taking the time to post that. Glad it was helpful!

@@NOS-ZL1 main bearing issues are well documented for these engines, but in my experience an ecodiesel with a spun main bearing will always dump oil out of the rear main seal. Specifically, a steady stream of oil. So if you don’t see that, I would personally pull the transmission and transfer case (if yours is 4WD) and replace the crank sensor and the reluctor wheel. From what you’re describing, it sounds like just the crank sensor. Observe for that massive oil leak I mentioned, but otherwise, go for it.

@@tadsworkshop that’s kind of what I was thinking. I think since I don’t have the oil pressure loss and I don’t have any leaks. It’s worth taking the gamble and going ahead and doing the repair. I have one more question for you if you wouldn’t mind. I’ve heard a rumor if you ever have to do this repair something would have to be reprogrammed for it to work properly. Is that something I should be concerned about? If it matters My truck is fully deleted and is tuned by Ecodiesel of Canada.

@@NOS-ZL1 no. I’ve never had to do anything special after replacing an ecodiesel crank sensor, both on deleted trucks and stock ones. It’s true, on some vehicles there may be a crankshaft relearn procedure, but I’m not aware of any on the ecodiesel and it’s never been an issue. Also, I want to note, as you get down to the crank sensor, there is a flywheel and a counterweight you’ll see that has to be removed. Just pay close attention to how everything is bolted together. I like to use an oil based paint marker so mark how things are clocked together. Take pictures, etc. Please let me know when you get your truck back up and running!

@@tadsworkshop thanks for the info. Great video, one of your other videos really helped me as well. “turbo coolant line” Thanks again

@@RelaxingSounds-tn7sp I appreciate you! Thank you.

It’s cranks but won’t start. I have verified the crank sensor and wheel are good. It will run with a little starter fluid. Doing so set a p016f code. Can’t figure out why it’s only getting 1200 psi. The pump is a oe replacement (new) not a reman

@@jakedobson790 I will do some homework tomorrow (look at some factory service information) and try to give you some helpful advice. You definitely need at least 3500 psi or so to start.

@@jakedobson790 have you tried disconnecting the fuel quantity solenoid on the injection pump? It should default to maximum pressure when you do. Let me know if you have any updates on this truck.

Absolutely. It would have no way of knowing if the valves are actually in place. Go for it! I can’t imagine any possible way for the computer to receive feedback from removed valves.

@@terrypeace3940 thanks for the kind words. Please like and subscribe if you haven’t already. I’ve been there with that high pressure code. More often than not, it’s air that is trapped in the rails - sometimes some spirited acceleration runs and constant clearing of the code via a scan tool will make it go away permanently. On some trucks, it’s tough to get rid of. I know of one truck personally that has had that code for 50k miles with no issue. Better to have high rail pressure than low. Shouldn’t cause any driveability issues from my experience. But do some spirited acceleration runs, constant test driving, and clear the codes a few time as necessary. Eventually, with any luck, it will not come back.

@@tadsworkshop got it you can delete

@@richleskovec4075 yes, this truck in the video is being used every day by a local company. I’ll say this, aside from the burnt original fuse, I also found that the fuel pump connector on top of the tank was also damaged from heat caused by excessive electrical resistance. It was so bad I had to replace the connector/pigtail. That may have been a unique situation for this particular truck. Anyway, if you follow the blue wire with the orange tracer, it should lead towards the rear of the car, through the driver fender, from what I recall. I’m curious about the gray connector in the other video you’re watching. I’ll look at a wiring diagram today to see if there was a change throughout the years.

@@tadsworkshop ​​⁠thank you so much for replying. My truck is a 2015 ram 1500 5.7 L I am stuck with this right now so thank you for speedy replies. I do appreciate it. OK I’m going to be trying to solve this today… I have no idea what’s wrong, but I replaced my fuel pump last week because of bad level sensors P0463 as I had indicated and it ran fine for four days And then I had engine trouble code P019D indicating fuel pressure sensor which I then replaced and then I had no codes. It ran fine so I thought I had solved it and then yesterday I have the same no start garbage so I got it towed home last night and will approach it today trying to jump her out the relay first of all and if that seems to work, then continue with adding a relay as you show because I have All the stuff handy to do it with

@@richleskovec4075 that sounds very frustrating. Keep in mind, the truck in the video was equipped with a 3.0L diesel, and I would not put it past the manufacturer to have a different pin out and wiring layout at the fuse block for another engine configuration. I don’t have access to the wiring diagrams for a 2015 Ram otherwise I’d try to offer more help. So, with this trucks fuel pump power wire being the blue/orange on the blue connector - take that with a grain of salt. It’s possible that may not apply to the 5.7L Hemi version. Wish you the best of luck, hopefully you determine the cause today or make progress on it.

@@tadsworkshop​​⁠right. I understand you’re is a diesel. I will look at other vids and try to research. At a minimum if the jumper method works, I can drive and it’s a temporary fix while I can definitively find a relay solution. I can hear the fuel pump run briefly and then stop when I turn the key to ACC. So the fuel pump I know is good and then kicks on and stops. So that’s not the problem. Ugh.

@@richleskovec4075 I haven’t worked on a fuel pump issue for a Hemi of those years, but it’s always been the norm for a lot of cars for the fuel pump to cycle for a few seconds just to pressurize the fuel rail with the key on, and engine off. Do you have a scan tool to see what fuel pressure is at the rail? I would monitor that information while cranking and when you get the engine running.

If you go to 6:33 in the video, you’ll see the snipped blue/orange wire. It comes out of the blue connector seen there. I do not remember or know the pin number off hand.

@@tadsworkshop thank you

@@jakesmetro it would definitely give you easier access to the banjo fittings on top of the turbocharger, although it’s not necessary. If you’re going through the trouble of replacing the intake, you should replace the turbo coolant hose underneath as well. If you remove the intake manifold, plan on cleaning or replacing it entirely. Make no mistake, replacing this turbocharger is a difficult job, mostly because of the limited access to the banjo fittings for coolant and oil on top of the turbocharger.

@@richdelgzz the first two codes are related to the swirl valves in the intake manifold, probably being jammed up by the soot inside. I wouldn’t worry about that for now, you should focus on the P0336 which is a crankshaft sensor issue. Most likely the reluctor wheel for it. I have another video on that crankshaft sensor. The fact that your engine is running at all, makes me think you’ve had the crankshaft sensor recall done, which was nothing more the reprogramming to allow the engine to continue running off the camshaft sensors. Bottom line - I’d guess the crankshaft reluctor wheel and sensor need to be replaced.

@@ivoschaedle1274 how did you go about checking the fuel pressure regulator on the rail? From what you’ve described so far, I can only imagine it’s the injection pump….but please give me more details if you can.

@@tadsworkshop Thanks..I checked the pressure regulator.Took the return line from the rail off,while I crank there is only for a second a small amount of fuel flowing back and then stops..so that works fine.

@@ivoschaedle1274 I see. That all sounds good. I can’t imagine the new injection pump being defective, but anything is possible. You might try replacing the regulator and/or pressure sensor at this point. Please let me know what you find out, I’d like to learn from your experience.

@@abel_el_rey1405 it is tough. Because it’s so tough, I now just replace the rubber section of line only, with some top quality high pressure silicone hose. I had a spare 19mm 12 point socket I ground down so it was as short as possible. Also used a wobble extension. I remember I had to bend or tweak a line out of the way. It is challenging but possible. I’d encourage you to just replace that section of rubber line if it’s still possible,

@@tadsworkshop Thanks for the advice with the Doorman line vs. rubber hose. I ordered the Doorman but cancelled it 10 minutes later after reading these comments. Can you be a little more specific on what hose I need? What to buy it? Part number? Specification? And what about the clamps. I suppose regular worm-gear clamps won't do? Where should I go to get the fuel injection style clamps? I'll need a special too for them too, I suppose?

@ I specifically use a 3 ply silicone hose. The pressure and temperature specs are way beyond what is needed, so that should translate to increased longevity. Here is a link: Silicone Coolant Hose 3-Ply 3/8"... www.amazon.com/dp/B08GYQXD3R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share As far as clamps, worm clamps are fine, but specifically American made breeze hose clamps. I hate that the market is flooded with Chinese clamps, and anybody with experience knows how easily these clamps strip out and loose their clamping force. Fuel injection style clamps are a great idea, but you’ll have to do your research on diameter to make sure they’ll work with this hose. I’ve also considered using stainless pinch clamps (like the factory ones) such as what you’d find in the plumbing PEX section at a hardware store. Personally I just use Breeze hose clamps. I think SAE size 6 off the top of my head. Emphasis on quality.

@@danielherring9324 expensive, but what you’ve mentioned it within reason, price wise. Glad to hear the truck is back on the road.

@@clagagne thanks for the kind words. That is an interesting problem, and I don’t really have an answer for it. I could only imagine their calibration/programming is different from what it was and causing the increased fuel consumption, or maybe it’s possible that coincidentally your DPF is becoming restrictive and choking the engine a little bit. Just ideas, but I’m only speculating.

@@tadsworkshop Thank's I will check to see if there is no dpf restriction thank you for your advice much appreciated.

@@tadsworkshop understood, tx!

@@guymanicone7921 it’s always a labor of love for me. Im never looking to profit off of it. I sold this engine, but I never built it with that intention. The boat it was in was junk, and I wanted to restore its heart, so to speak. In hindsight, just like a car you use to have, I regret selling this engine.

@@michaelnash1676 I just can’t imagine what they are referring to. I can’t help but think they are BS’ing you. I really think it’s as simple as tightening up the nuts on the injection lines that were disturbed. Or undoing them, and reseating them and tightening the nuts. Also, you are correct, in this video I reused all of the fuel lines. Had no problems or issues from this. Hope you get it square away, but it does sounds minor. I would deal with it asap though, given the extreme pressure in those lines.

@@tadsworkshop thanks

@@michaelnash1676 crush washers? I’m not aware of any associated with the high pressure fuel system. Just simple flare fittings. The mechanic hasn’t tightened down the line properly. Very, very carefully observe where it is coming from with the engine idling. If there are any loose fittings, and I’m sure there are, tighten with 19mm or 3/4” wrench. But yes, find a different dealership or a private diesel shop.

@@bluesteeljay9343 sorry I didn’t respond sooner. No, the nut draws the gear down onto the shaft. Truck ran and still runs fine. Thanks for the kk d words!

@@richard-greatwhiterev well how about that electric bypass valve shown in this video? Can still be faulty, with or without codes pointing to it.

@@richdelgzz in my opinion and experience, no. An injector failing due to metallic debris from the injection pump tearing itself apart is very uncommon. Again, my experience. Let’s just hope they are correct with their diagnosis. The two other most common reasons for a crank, no start, is crankshaft sensor reluctor wheel, and lift pump in fuel tank. I would hope they checked fuel pressure in between lift pump and injection pump and scoped out the crank sensor signal.

@@tadsworkshop Thanks!

Hi i replace it and my injector and still pressure 140 at running ​@@tadsworkshop

@@arthurmollinedo7431 I’d imagine it’s pretty similar, but have no experience with dodge of that era.