วีดีโอ

@@forrestmiller4055 hopefully not! Low probability though, in all honesty.

@@dwhy2994 thanks for the kind words.

@@WorkHorse.Fabrication this was sometime ago, but I believe it ran rough all the time. Do a compression test on all cylinders if you suspect your misfire could be mechanical.

@@robertjacob86 hi Robert, yes I’m always working on them. Where are you located at?

@@tadsworkshop Howell, MI

@@tadsworkshop Ok. Sounds good. Thanks.

@@MattW-z4i I believe the 200B code is related to the swirl valves in the intake manifold, and essentially that they are not moving the way they should be, most likely due to the soot/oil mix clogging up the intake and cylinder heads from the egr system. You could certainly try removing this throttle plate if you would like to rule it out. Easy enough to remove and reinstall as needed.

Thanks for the quick reply! I’m hoping this is the issue vs replacing the manifold. I suppose I could pull the hose when it won’t start to see if it’s shut to confirm.

Thanks again for the video, pulled the value after non start and it started right up! Would it be wise to put a new throttle body in that works properly or just leave as it is?

@@MattW-z4i I would say leave it out and see how it goes. I wouldn’t be surprised for a trouble code to come up related to egr performance, since that valve is largely responsible for that, but if it does come up, simply keep clearing the code to get you by, and look into buying another throttle body if it does.

I’m going to replace my manifold due to the P200B code that I mentioned earlier. I saw your video about removing swirl valves on a new intake. Was thinking about getting the banks manifold but your method seems to accomplish the same thing as the banks. Will that allow for any performance/driveabilty gains or is it just to stop the swirl valve issue in the future? That said is there any harm in putting a new manifold on with the swirl valves still intact?

@@kylphelps13 I never bother with the def tank. I try to take out the transmission and transfer case as one assembly, with the crossmember. If that is not practical for you, just do the transfer case first, then the transmission. Before you do that, there is a weight bolted to the transfer case - remove that first and throw it to the side. I never reinstall it. It’s for dampening noise/vibration at a certain frequency. Have never had any complaints about not reinstalling it.

@@supermario867 hi Mario, I will try to look into it and give you an answer….but to the best of my knowledge, it’s 80W-90 gear oil. I am unsure of that, but I’ll try to dig through my owners manual today and see if it gives some specs.

@@tadsworkshop I would be very grateful. I can't find any specific information anywhere. Unfortunately, I don't have a service manual. I have a parts catalog, but it doesn't provide any concrete details. I’ve asked on various forums, but every answer is different.

@@supermario867 ok, I’ll have to check tomorrow. I don’t have a service manual, really just an owners manual for the machine in the video. I’ll try to let you know tomorrow. Keep after me if you don’t hear back.

@@Renew60 I think you’d be in uncharted territory and I don’t think that would work, honestly. You’d be further ahead to find the filler block (join Facebook groups related to Kaisers and the like) and find someone who would be willing to sell you one. Or, if you’re lucky, you might be able to find a complete engine for cheap. It does come up.

@@wtdash if you can find a fuel pump fuse or relay, you can simply unplug that and crank it over until fuel pressure diminishes. Or just let the car sit for a few hours. I was in a rush, and simply put a rag under the sensor, cracked open a little, and let it bleed fuel into the rag. Cold engine and exhaust of course.

@@tadsworkshop Thanks for the reply. On my Subaru projects, I remove the gas cap. Would inserting the "portable funnel" into the capless fuel filler work in lieu of that?

@@wtdash no. Fuel line pressure is completely separate from tank pressure which is what you’re referring to. We are talking about pressure in the 60-80psi range. There is no way your fuel tank has 60-80psi of pressure!

@@tadsworkshop Job done but you're a magician (and strong) with that 24mm wrench. I let it sit overnight to relieve fuel pressure and very little fuel came out. I ended up removing the wipers (mark their location) and 2 upper cowls and reached behind the engine from the top with a 24mm deep socket and extension with a ratchet, and 13mm wedged against another hard line. That sensor was in there TIGHT. Thanks again.

@ I don’t remember it having any real torque on it, and it shouldn’t be being it’s a o-ring seal style sensor, but glad you were able to resolve your issue! Thanks for the kind words. Subscribe if you haven’t already, helps me out.

@@ScottFillwock yes, I believe 2009-2012…how convenient for Chrysler. And they still didn’t care to fix the issue and learn from their mistakes on the newer models.

@tadsworkshop ya man, I need to get w you soon to schedule my eco, not sure if you remember me, I'm on the west side, were going to do intake, turbo hose, water pump, been to damn busy to get to ya, but need to soon, actually I'll ring ya tomorrow

⁠@@ScottFillwockI do remember, and no problem I get the busy thing. I’m in no rush, I’m around and always staying busy.

They have a warranty extension on all Gen 4 RAMs. 2009-2018 plus 12 years from model year coverage. I have a 2015 and it was just done for free under warranty extension Oct of 2024. Call a dealer and if your RAM is 2018 or older, dealer will fix it for free.

@@ScottFillwock this truck was probably a few potholes and bumps away from there tank dropping. Glad you caught yours in time!

@ maybe 3 hours for the entire job, moving at a comfortable pace.

@@JoseJimenez-me5fq built into the fuel pump. It is non-serviceable by itself. Basically it gets replaced when the fuel pump is replaced someday.

@@user-gl5ht1ch6v it’s a motorcraft CM5250. It is sometimes incorrectly described as an acceleration sensor, best rest assured, it is that fuel pressure sensor on the line. www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHL47P0/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_EJQCPN9J8D87W0RW95Q5?linkCode=ml2&tag=tadsworkshop-20

@@Renew60 that is a good question I don’t have an answer for. These parts are very tough to find. The best thing to do is join some Facebook groups focusing on these Jeeps, Kaisers, hurricane I-6 and connect with people who have these parts laying around. That’s what I did for this lip seal filter block. Even then…the lip seal is completely obsolete and no where to be found. I’d recommend sticking with rope.

@@MattW-z4i in the case of this truck, it was largely due to the oil leak. Sure, I could’ve replaced just the gasket/seal, but you have to remember you have both coolant and oil passing through it, and on a high mileage engine it’s not unknown (on any engine) for oil coolers to fail and the two fluids get mixed up. So at the time, for $300 some dollars, I would just as soon replace the unit. And yes, regarding your low oil pressure, I’m sure it’s just the oil pressure sending unit, which is the sensor on this unit. Prices fluctuate on this oil cooler over the years, so if it is reasonably priced, replace the entire thing and move on.

@@J1I9M7M4Y really appreciate it. In hindsight, I’d recommend a dab of black RTV such as what you’d find at any parts store. And it’s just for the sake of holding them firmly in place. Is it needed? No, just exercise care so none of them fall out and into an intake runner while you’re reinstalling! I have installed manifolds without applying any sort of epoxy or RTV.

@@tadsworkshop Thank`s for the quick response and advice! You earned a new subscriber!!

thats what i was thinking too, make it solid for best air flow, im actually thinking of porting it a little to clean up casting lines too

@@michaelstoltz4745 thank you, I appreciate it! Order up a gates water pump and that fel-pro O-ring that I have listed in the video description. Take your time and exercise care with the small plastic bypass tube you’ll see.

​@tadsworkshop I ordered the Oring and the thernoatat. I've already replaced the bypass tube. The old one broke up.when I started pulling on it.

@@Samuel-Andrade I think Kia doesn’t give a timing chain replacement interval, but my opinion is every 160,000-190,000 km.

@@bobcat23462 fair enough, your right. I posted that link just to give an idea, but that particular tool just can’t handle any substantial torque. I had the same thing happen to me. I’ll find an alternative tool and change the link.

@@stiksandstones nope. Just as you see here, I never had to bother with removing the front bumper or radiator support. Just remove cat, heat shields, etc. an inspection mirror is handy so you can see around corners.

@@denzelcrocker4956 I don’t remember bothering. I’m just going off memory here, but there was no hood light, and even with the hood ajar, it shouldn’t affect the modules going to sleep after 30mins to an hour.

I found Out, that my navigation drained the battery. Now it is at 0,09 on my clamp. Is that good? Or still top much?

@ is that 0.090 amps? Otherwise you mean 90ma? That’s just a touch high but that’s really not that bad. I would hope to see, for any car, the current to drop to 0.050 amps (50ma) or less. But 0.090? I’d wait a bit longer to see if it drops any further. Remember, if you disturb your connections, it will reset everything and the process will start all over.

@@tadsworkshop the Clamp measures in A. So i would guess 90mA. I waited an additional 1 Hour on the car and it stayed the same

@@denzelcrocker4956ammeter clamps are a little inaccurate when it comes to really low current flow like that. I’d encourage you do the same test but with the leads inline. Be careful not to blow the fuse in your multimeter. Most are only 10 amps, some 15. But given what you’ve told me, it sounds like you’re doing ok as far as parasitic draws go. Just try the same test with the leads.

@@jasonlevick2627 no. Inspect your dowel pins and their respective holes in the timing cover. Make sure it’s free of corrosion. I’ll normally put a little bit of grease on them. But otherwise, all you can do is take it back off and carefully inspect. Be careful not to break/damage that cover.

@@tadsworkshop I cant get it to fit over the crankshaft. i can get it started, but it wont slide all the way on.

@@jasonlevick2627strange. I wish I had some advice to help you, but it’s been a while since I did this job. There should be no resistance by the crankshaft. The only resistance should be those dowel pins when remounting. You may have to pull that timing cover off and carefully, carefully inspect everything and see what the heck is binding.

@@tadsworkshop thanks for trying to help!

@@bobcat23462 your no bother; feel free to ask as much as you want. You’ve got the right idea, that’s pretty much what I do. Vacuum cleaner is a must. I attack the top of the intake runners (the ones cast into the heads) with a razor blade, and further on down, I use a screwdriver or a small scraper. Keep in mind some intake valves will be open. Avoid dropping clumps of soot down in there, but it’s not the end of the world and to some extent, almost unavoidable. If the valve is closed I’ll use compressed air to blow the chunks of soot up the intake port and into the vacuum. It’s definitely a good idea to do this. I swear I’ve felt some trucks feel more responsive after doing this, which isn’t surprising given how dramatic the restrictions can be.

@@LuisLopez-sc3tc No, I’ve never had to program the crankshaft sensor. Simply remove and replace. When you say it doesn’t turn on anymore, what exactly does that mean? It doesn’t crank over whatsoever?

Just make sure to give it lots of time to drop from that 4.25amps. Allow it up to 20 minutes. Also, disturbing your multimeter leads or connections will obviously upset and reset the electronics that are drawing that 4.25 amps and start the cycle again.

@@makramchibani9498 it does not cause any problems on a deleted truck. On a stock truck, it will cause issues with the EGR system. I’d imagine the check engine light would come on, but I don’t think any driveability issues would come up.

Thanks for taking the time to post that. Glad it was helpful!

@@NOS-ZL1 main bearing issues are well documented for these engines, but in my experience an ecodiesel with a spun main bearing will always dump oil out of the rear main seal. Specifically, a steady stream of oil. So if you don’t see that, I would personally pull the transmission and transfer case (if yours is 4WD) and replace the crank sensor and the reluctor wheel. From what you’re describing, it sounds like just the crank sensor. Observe for that massive oil leak I mentioned, but otherwise, go for it.

@@tadsworkshop that’s kind of what I was thinking. I think since I don’t have the oil pressure loss and I don’t have any leaks. It’s worth taking the gamble and going ahead and doing the repair. I have one more question for you if you wouldn’t mind. I’ve heard a rumor if you ever have to do this repair something would have to be reprogrammed for it to work properly. Is that something I should be concerned about? If it matters My truck is fully deleted and is tuned by Ecodiesel of Canada.

@@NOS-ZL1 no. I’ve never had to do anything special after replacing an ecodiesel crank sensor, both on deleted trucks and stock ones. It’s true, on some vehicles there may be a crankshaft relearn procedure, but I’m not aware of any on the ecodiesel and it’s never been an issue. Also, I want to note, as you get down to the crank sensor, there is a flywheel and a counterweight you’ll see that has to be removed. Just pay close attention to how everything is bolted together. I like to use an oil based paint marker so mark how things are clocked together. Take pictures, etc. Please let me know when you get your truck back up and running!

@@tadsworkshop thanks for the info. Great video, one of your other videos really helped me as well. “turbo coolant line” Thanks again

@tadsworkshop I finally got around to doing the job and the wheel was in fact broken. It had missing pieces material in two different places. I’ll replace the reluctor wheel and Also the crank position sensor However, after putting it back together, I run into an issue that I was hoping maybe you could shed some light on. After doing the repair I go to start the truck and it spins over approximately a second and a half and times out. Truck is spinning freely. I’ve also change the starter relay thinking that it was possibly kicking out. I check for any codes or anything that could be causing it to time out after just a second or two. Everything reads good with no fault code. I’ve ran Internet I’m finding a lot of crank no starts. But nothing on the starter timing out before it has an opportunity to start the truck. Any help would be appreciated.

1 bar is 14.7 psi, that's the difference

@@TheDrivewayEngineer Thanks for the explanation!