Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I cleaned the throttle body of my wife's NIssan Note. It gave me a hell of problems, engine riving at idle. I followed the procedure on the service manual but couldn't solve the problem. I sent the car to Nissan dealership, they could NOT fix it with their ScanTool as well, but told me either the ECM or ETB(Electronic Throttle Body) is defect. I drove home because letting them change the ECM or the ETB will cost me a fortune. I ordered an ETB whose manufacture has a good reputation. With the help of a Scan Tool I bought, and your trick " brake and Gear" in position, it finally worked.
I'm from a family of mechanics. This is Small talk for many of us. Remember the days when you opened the hood and all there is was a battery and engine. Not a ton of plastic spaghetti and sensors. Argggg 😤
MY MAN……. Thank you so much! You helped me figure out that the new motor and trans I put in my 07 trailblazer was as good as I knew it was. I had some things going on that I just could not explain to any of the other techs I worked with, and yes I did try to clean, relearn and had the computer flashed as well… nothing worked, so I found this video and fixed my 2 year old headache. Again thank you so much!
Great video, and Duralast is probably great too, but not only that i can't afford it, I would not pay that kind of money for any throttle body! I can almost buy a whole used car for that price! A Duralast throttle body for an 02 Volvo S60 2.4T costs $822.99 at Autozone! Not just an arm and a leg, they want a whole body for that throttle body, lol! What are they smoking?! Crack? I wonder how many units they actually sold and who would buy one at that price? Bosch unit is OEM and it's half the price of Duralast! Now, is Duralast really twice as good? I doubt it, unless it's made by hand mostly out of gold or something. Still can't be twice as good. I like to dream of parts that were "built to last"! :-) Thanks for the quality video, tho...
Oh man if only companies made parts with the goal of lasting as long as possible. I can say with near certainty that they do not, there's money to be made in replacement parts. One day soon, for a thousand years Jesus will rule the nations with an iron rod. Hopefully this is one of the things he fixes
Hyundai wants about $700 for a throttle body for my car. Duralast is $189 at Autozone, and comes with a limited lifetime warranty (warrantied until I sell the car). Autozone offers several other aftermarket throttle bodies; but those only have 1 year warranties. I'll stick with the Duralast if I need one (I'm researching possible problems and possible fixes before I start to take things apart). But cleaning the throttle body makes sense as it has over 300,000 miles on it.
Thank you so much for explaining this in great detail. I recently got the throttle body swapped on my 2020 Versa and I left the dealership and 10 miles away, the car began to shudder. Eventually the engine shut off and their excuse was "it didn't take the programming" I had to come back for the relearning.. The dealership drove it 20 miles instead of the previous 3 miles when I got the car back a second time. So far, it looks like everything is holding up.
Thanks for making this Video. Im not a mechanic and Im trying to get a little old 2006 Honda Accord to run properly. First issue is it doesn't read the scanner when you connected to the scanner I took it to a couple of autopart stores to used their scanner and it just doesn't work. The issue the car is as you drive the car for about 15 or 20 minutes the car slows down even if I add more speed and press the gas all the way down to to floor it just doesn't get more power. I know I need to get that scanner connector fix before I do anything else to the car but watching this video taught me one of many things that might be the cause of the poor acceleration issue Again Thanks for making this video it was very well made at first when you said that you have to reset the new Throtte I said oooh nooo I need one of those computers to reset it oooooh mannnn but then at the end of the video you showed us how easy it was to reset it. I said I could do that. 🙂👍Thank Very Much.
Glad you liked it. Your description of the problem sounds a lot like a clogged exhaust. You may want to disconnect the exhaust where it enters the converter and take a look inside...maybe even drive the car with the exhaust open to see if you notice the difference.
I'm a neighborhood mechanic of 15 yrs and my experience with the symptom you describe happened to a Toyota Corolla that had bad slide pins in the front calipers. After about 15 to 20 mins of driving the issue was a bit baffling because the car struggled to increase speed due to these seized brakes! Again, the last area I would've pinpointed because the car had a complete front brake rebuild from a corporate shop the year prior. The slide pins in the calipers were BONE DRY and the rubber boots were not seated properly. This caused the calipers to keep the pistons pressed further out and the brake fluid wasn't returning to the MC all in due process. Needless to say, problem solved and I gained respect as a trustworthy neighborhood mechanic! 👍🏾
Wow such valuable information. Especially since I just purchased a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis. That is the first year of those cares for "drive by wire" I just learned.
Hi guys.... I've got a 2012 Chery J1...i had the same problem but... But I tried a temporary fix which was to use a fuel injector cleaner ...wait until the tank is almost empty... Add a small bottle of Injector cleaner... Approx 150mls.. Add Fuel and drive away. The result was amazing... No more hesitation when acceleration was applied... A more smoother ride.... It's being a few days so far and the car is definitely running a lot better.. What have u got to loose?..
I'v replace the throttle body 3 times on my 2008 chysler 300, cleaned them as well. Someone told me its the throttle body sensor that need to be replaced. I dont know where the sensor is located. I found the part on rockauto. So will you please make a video just about the throttle sensor and how to replace it.
It’s Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS) and is attached to either left or right side of the Electrical Throttle Body . One side of the Throttle Body is power connector and the other side is attached to it is Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS) that reads and sends information to the car computer the position of the Butterfly ( Blade ) when we press the pedal . The car computer (ECM) accordingly adjust the fuel spray in the fuel injectors .
Hello, I have an Alfa Romeo Giulietta QV 1.8 turbo petrol. My car has developed a problem with the idle hunting after reseting the self learned parameters of the ECU. The car starts perfect, idles good until the temperature start rising and the engine starts calculating the mixture, than the idle becomes erratic...goes up and down and than stabilizes and than again and than stabilizes. Under acceleration the car runs just great with no issues 🤷🏻♂️. The car has no check engine light on!!! I have changed coolant temperature sensor, cleaned MAF and MAP sensors, changed spark plugs and coils, going to change the wide band pre-catalyst Lambda but the old one does go in closed loop. The only thing not changed yet is the electronic throttle body. I did try to clean it and was not dirty but I did move it with my fingers. Coul this cause a fault in the throttle body...if yes why it did appear only after the ECU reset 🤷🏻♂️ Please give me an idea what coul be the trouble
I just bought a 2013 Dodge avenger with a 2.4 l engine and I had to replace the thermostat housing but now the idle is kind of funny so I'm thinking this may be my problem. If I hold the gas pedal down for 2000 rpm's it goes up to 2000 down to 1800 backup to 2000 down 1800. I'm gonna try to clean it 1st but I have a feeling I will have to replace it. Thanks for the video
I have a 2014 town and country. Lightening bolt comes on and van won’t start. I cleaned the throttle body and it was pretty clean TBH. Under 70k miles. How do I test the TB or pedal sensor or do I just throw parts?
I cleaned the throttle body on my 2011 gmc 1500 5.3 I start it up N push against the throttle body blade(butterfly)to see if it’s clean in there it pops and shuts off the truck now when starting up have high rpms 2.5k-3k do I replace throttle body ?
@@MotorAgeMagazine I have a 2003 sierra and Im having pretty much the same problem except mine revs up to about 4200 rpm and I have a check engine light the code is po122 and it is Throttle/pedal position sensor/ switch A circuit low do you happen to have any ideas?
If you are pushing on the throttle blade you probably have removed the intake air duct, which usually contains the intake air temperature sensor, and/or the mass airflow sensor. You can't expect the fuel injection to work properly without the IAT or MAF sensor(s) in the intake air flow.
That is an amazingly comprehensive tutorial. Thank you. I have an Alfa Romeo Brera 2.2 Petrol. I’ve lean the TB and it’s now wonderful. Can anyone tell me how to increase idle speed from 8,000 currently to 10,000. How do I do an idle relearn on an Alfa?
Hi, thank you for your insightful video. I have a 2003 Tacoma prerunner 2,7L Reg cab. The mechanic fixed the check engine light due to the dirty mass air flow sensor he thinks? I drove it for three days and I experienced the same problem when I started the truck. The initial start always came with the rough idle then drive fine after that but the engine light came back on. I replaced the mass air flow but that didn’t solve the check engine light. The truck runs fine and the second days start the engine starts with no rough idle…it only starts with the rough idle when I don’t drive more than two days. Any help would really appreciate it. Could it be the fuel injectors gone bad?
I have a 2016 Jeep Cherokee 3.2l Trailhawk. I’ve replaced the throttle body, the mass air flow temp sensor and the accelerator pedal with sensor. After each replacement of each part, the red lightening bolt indicator would return. Some drives it wouldn’t happen, but most times I take it out, it pops back up on my dash board. Is there something that I’m missing as to why this keeps happening?
the lightning bolt is a warning for electronic throttle control problems and be related to a lot of stuff. Is your fuel pump (in tank) operating correctly. check fuel pressure.
My 2003 Tacoma sr5 stalled on me and gave me a code P2121 - Throttle/ pedal position sensor/ switch D circuit range/ performance. So I bought TPS and it worked for a day. And today it stalled again and gave me code P2138 throttle/ pedal position sensor / switch D /E voltage correlation. Any idea what can it be? Throttle body opens butterfly 1/4 not even half way when I move the accelerator wire that’s connected to throttle body.
At 5:11 my mom ride has a check engine light when i used her ride, it's a 2019 chevy cruze and it's has a electrical throttle body her air filter was dirty so replace that and went to check her throttle body but no build up has occurred yet so i still cleaned it but I wanted to see if it was working or not, got my phone out and postion my phone to record the throttle body while I pressed on the Accelerator and once that was done, check the phone and it starting to make noise every time it would open
My 2008 Escalade 6.2 "hiccups" with varying severity under light load at part throttle, especially when climbing a grade at 40+/- mph and between 1200 and 1800 rpm. No codes are thrown. The vehicle has 210,000 miles on it and I acquired it with 190K. I plan to check the APPS and the TPS; perhaps the variable resistor quadrant(s) have a rough spot? Any ideas would be appreciated. Jeff.
Well explained. I have the same throttle; my issue is that the deceleration is weak. It takes seconds or so to return back to the initial position. Do you know how I can fix this?
How I wish I had found this when it first dropped. Replaced the MAF 3 years ago & only drove the Ranger 20 miles before parking it. Six months later it’s throwing the same code. I’m told to drive it over 50 miles an hour for 50 miles & that should do it… it didn’t. Next day found a bird’s nest in the intake. Still ran fine, tho. Cleaned everything out & eventually the code cleared. After moving it around all summer, today I decided to sell it… it started to crank & then nothing. The code is back!
My 07 VW City Golf Mar 4 (2.0L) Engine light is on and I scanned and was showing P0068 which is related to MAP/MAF. What I want to do is, first of all, replaced the air filter, then clean up the throttle body, my question is, if I take out the throttle body, is it to be reprogrammed or just as you said in the video, just follow your procedure and let it relearn. Thank you.
Hi bud, I have the weirdest problem! I went to change the air filter and thought to check and clean the throttle body butterfly. It was fully open which I thought was strange as had no real issues, I mean I have thought the car was a little sluggish on acceleration (delayed) and thought maybe my EGR choking. I always put good quality treatment into fuel and try different types so thought maybe not so... Lately had a little stuttering at the first few lights after leaving the house first thing but not pulling off the drive? My throttle body was fully open with engine off, I sprayed it and wiped but was pretty clean... as you could wish for, I sprayed in with engine running spurts of spray at a time but no movement with butterfly? I had my naibours grandchild come with half decent scan tool tablet a month or two earlier to check car after I gave him a toe and he said that there was no codes, which he thought was suprising. I dont know if he knows fully whats wha but he mentioned my pedal showing depressed 19% ?? he didnt start the car with scan tool plugged in which I asked and said that I thought you could but he said not with his tool. He said he wiped the car for any codes anyhows. Oh I did have a funny few weeks with my battery dying a while back and got that checked but came back fine (just needs a charge so I bought a smart charger and let it do its thing but it kept dying on me and then I put the battery on a full repair charge and its been fine since plus i've kept car in a lower gear to charge up more as my brother said I was driving like a pussy... trying to save miliage 😂 Any idea bud why my butterfly is full open with no real issue on idle or revs going high and once the car warms up all other issues apart from sluggish accelorator dissapear! oh and I disconnected the battery a few times to charge so I assume the sensor would have reset as ive heard on another vid to disconect the negative. I have been worried why my surpentine/alternator belt seems slightly worn on the outside but looks great on the ribbed inside? I thought maybe my issues was the belt tensioner or idle pulley but strange how the black is wearing off on the outside and all looked good with no movement on the tensioner. I did hear the other night late on when it was quiet a little rythmic chirp ever so quiet which i've not heard before which makes me think the idle pulley but cant make head way with the throttle body butterly fully open? Honda civic tourer 1.6 i-dtech diesel
Hello, Pete. If you have a higher voltage in one of the APP sensors as you sweep the throttle( from normal to higher than specs), how could that affect the TPS sensors? Your answer will be highly appreciated.
@@mattlawton4715 Interesting question. If more air is entering the engine, RPMs should rise. Is the air entering the engine?? Is the ECM seeing the throttle opening and adding additional fuel?? I would want to see some scan data for this one...
First, you need to check the service information for your vehicle to see if cleaning is even recommended. If it is, I like to spray the cleaner on a clean rag and then wipe away as much as possible. Some light applications directly to the heavier deposits is ok - just done over do it. You can use cotton swabs to clean around the throttle shaft and the edges of the throttle plate.
Hello! Nice video! Can I have some help? I am struggling with my Mercedes w221 s320cdi. The problem happened when I turned off the esp and flored it and it started making weard whistling sounds and it gets in emergency mode or limp mode after been throttled for a couple of seconds in the turbo area. I have driven her to the service and there were no damage from the turbo ways. I was wondering if throttle body could be the problem ?
Yeah, I think found the problem. There is a gap between my turbo and the aluminium pipe that goes to the intercooler. I will get that fix on Wednesday and hopefully, it will fix my problem.
The first tool you'll need is a source of service information specific to your vehicle. Make sure to read over the procedure before you even open the hood. Actual tooling will be dependent on the make and model but basic hand tools are usually all you need. Be sure you understand the relearn procedure for your car!
You may be able to command the throttle plate open and closed to verify motor operation. You can also graph the throttle position sensor PIDs but the refresh rate is too slow to catch a glitch.
Thanks for the video! Can I get help with the diagnosis of my car? 2010 Toyota matrix with 1.8l. Cleaned the excessively dirty throttle body. Replaced coil packs and plugs. Cleaned mass air sensor. Replaced filter changed crankcase sensor. Initial issue was a backfire under the hood that blew off the vacuum line under the throttle body. Also check engine light sand cylinder 3 and 1 misfire. While changing the plugs and coil packs, I noticed oil in the number 3 cylinder and a small amount in the number four cylinder. I cleaned a cylinders and replaced the valve cover gasket. I'm still having idle too high and it fluctuates just slightly about a plus or minus 50 RPM fluctuation while driving and while idling It was after replacing everything but before cleaning the throttle body that I noticed a new code. P2103. This led me to clean mass sensor and remove and clean throttle body.
I have 2010 toyota corolla. similar throttle body top right cornar there is a screw hidden in a glue type material. can you please tell me, what is the function of that. and how it help in adjusting a specific parameter? I have observed that changing the position of that screw make throttal pedal to respond differently and effect the drivability . I have an issue of poor idling. throttle body is cleaned. every possibility has been checked but could not fix the issue.
Great video! I took my throttle body off,because my 2013 Charger has the red lighting bolt on dashboard.Something is rattling around in the throttle body.Doesn’t seem normal?
My 2004 Acura MDX goes to 3000 RPMs when accelerating from 0 to about 40miles per hour. I need to often take my foot of the gas to let the RPMs go down? What could be the reason? My throttle body has built in mass air flow sensor sensor and idle air control valve if I am not mistaken.
Check engine light is on (has been for about a year. Been to several mechanics and no one can figure out the cause), and have now experienced Low Engine Power warning several times. Cleaned the throttle body and reset the vehicle as per this vid. Works for a few days then low power warning again. I drive a 2010 Buick Lacrosse, about 170k miles. What could be going on? Is it time to get rid of it or can I get some more life out of it? Great vid, btw.
The Low Engine Power warning can be caused by a variety of problems. Personally, I would begin with a complete testing of the engine's primary systems - compression/sealing, volumetric efficiency, ignition and fuel. Are there any codes stored (is the Check Engine light on)?
@MotorAgeMagazine Check Engine light has been on for over a year. I've had several mechanics look at it. The car is returned to me with the light off, then it comes back on a few days or weeks later. That's why I've taken it to different mechanics, but end up with the same result. Honestly, I think they're just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery so that the light goes off. I don't know the code numbers. Car is immobilized right now (due to low engine power).
Hey, Pete. Watching you excellent video in Florida. In one of your videos, you talked about how the PCM/ECM does its testing: Rationality, Functionality etc. I would like to know how they say that both ,the accelerator pedal and the electronic throttle body can cause the P2135 code on Nissan. I understand that the pcm checks both sensors (APP and TPS) with KOEO, for performance, rationality. My question is, if the APP has some malfunctions and not the ETC, why the engineers don't just set a code for each individually? As far as I know, the APP sends a signal to the pcm and the pcm commands the ETC to open the throttle valve and the TPS sensors send a feed back to the pcm about the speed and opening of the throttle plate. If the APP voltage were too high or too low or not performing well at a certain time, shouldn't the pcm set a code for the APP only, even though a bad APP voltage can cause the pcm to command a higher or lower throttle opening that the TPS sensors will report to the pcm? I think it's bad engineering.
According to the service information for a Nissan Altima, this is a rationality code that compares the output signal of the two TPS sensors. They should agree. The fault will either be in the wiring, or (more likely) in the sensor itself. Of course, always check for any Technical Service Bulletins that may apply. The function of the APP sensor shouldn't be related to this code.
@@MotorAgeMagazine Thank you, Pete, for your elaborate explanation. As you said, the function of the APP sensors shouldn't be related to the p2135 code. Unfortunately, the APP sensor circuit is included in the diagnosis of the code.
@@perez7667 I found a few generic resources, both online and on TH-cam, that included a faulty APP as a possible cause, but the factory info does not - for the model I checked, anyway.
Greetings from Hartford Connecticut!! Thanks for putting so many educational videos on youtube!!! Thank you!!! Tell Pete that I love his videos and that this is one of my favorite youtube channels!! Keep up the good work!!!! Be safe!!!!
I believe Wells makes the sensors and ignition parts under contract with Auto Zone . They are then branded Duralast . They are high quality . I can't imagine what a dealer would charge to diagnose and install an electronic throttle body . Is that drive by wire worth it in the bigger picture ? Not only the motor inside , but with dual TPS - if one goes bad you are paying big time for an assembly . I just saw a video where a fuel pump relay was replaced on a BMW . A " regular " relay was installed . BUT - the OEM has a resistor to prevent voltage spikes to the ECM . About a week later , the ECM was ruined and cost OVER $ 1000.00 at the dealer !
Ihave a 2001 ford fusion with a 2.5 liter engine. My engine light and wrench light came on and threw a 2119 code. ( engine throddle body actuator) and a emission warning. I sprayed and cleaned the throttle body but didnt do a re programming.
I have a question? I have a 2006 G35 sedan and so far I changed the catalytic converters,A/T FR/B solenoid,Transmission Temperature sensor, fresh transmission fluid and filter, MAF , APPS, new battery, and new brake pads, plus fresh oil change and filter. My car symptoms are slip & vdc lights are on at the same time as the check engine light, late gear shifts, hesitant to accelerate from complete stop, RPMs are hesitant when pedal is fully depressed (very sluggish rev ups), reduced power, delayed response when stepping on gas pedal. Ive done the idle relearn procedure many times but its not sticking. Im lost , HELP!
What if idle is really low at stop lights but good after about 30 minutes of driving . my car shakes and sometimes I get bad fuel economy along with horrible takeoff. What is the issue ? Did the relearn the sensors cleaned ,the throttle cleaned and fuel injectors changed . still getting low rpm. G37 sedan 2019
Hi Mr am having a problem with my throttle body for ford fiesta mk6 st 150 2.0l I cleaned it up and then when I the car it only rav once and then stop raving go back to limp mode I bought another throttle it's still doing the same thing the machanic think it's a ECU
Additionally, I can arrest the "hiccup" by throttling up to 2000 rpm or more thus forcing a kickdown. I just had the transmission rebuilt at considerable cost and it continues to "hiccup". The local trans shop sees no transmission codes. The roughness can't be good on the transfer case chain and other components.
I replaced the MAF Sensor and the engine line went out, but it still wont go faster than 35-40 mph, im thinking this seems 'easy' enough so i'll try removing it and possibly replacing it.
I have a p2111, code throttle body stuck open. I replaced the throttle body w/ sensor and still have the same code ? Im not sure if itsthe ecm or pedal position sensor, any ideas ?
In my Lexus Lx470 2005 , I found that when I press the accelerate fully (full gas) it goes maximum only at 2000 RPM and it doesn’t accelerate beyond that. But when I put to neutral it’s goes beyond 2000 RPM. elerator pedal. (See attached ) Looking for advice and fix.
This code is set with the calculated engine rpm is no in line with the desired (programmed) rpm for a specified time. On your Ford, it can be caused by a problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor signal to the PCM, or the Camshaft Position Sensor signals (two, I believe) to the PCM, or a problem with the PCM itself. But before you replace the PCM, make sure that the signals are strong, it has good power and grounds, and the connector pins are not damaged or corroded. I would use a scope at the PCM connector to monitor the CKP and CMP signals, looking for any fallouts or inconsistencies. If that's ok, I'd check power and grounds to the PCM next. Good luck!
My 1996 1.6L Toyota camry throttle body had siezed. I pulled it out. Inspected it, tried to wiggle the plate open. It wouldn't budge. I called a friend over and he gave it a tap with a hammer and it worked!!!!!! Mind you my engine bay is spotless clean and the throttle body was in good shape no dirt inside. DONT BE AFRAID TO TAP IT WITH A HAMMER FIRST hahaha
Thanks for the video, i have a 1 series 116i benzin 2007 manual bmw, with loss of power and hesitations, when ascending gears, from 1 to 2nd and so, on descending gears, no problem at all, no fault codes at all, changed throttle pedal and sensor, spark plugs, no result. Can you please give me a direction where to.look
@@mycomment6699 There are a number of reasons a gasoline engine can develop low power issues. Restricted exhaust, cam timing, low compression, turbo malfunction - the list goes on. You may want to enlist the aid of a qualified technician to help you isolate the fault(s). It will likely require diagnostic equipment you may not have - factory level scan tool and diagnostic oscilloscope would be on my list.
Can anyone tell me if the throttle body on a 2004 camry 4 cylinder has the idle air control valve built in? The Chilton manual says both the 4 and 6 cylinder which has a throttle position sensor cannot be replaced separately.
Hi sir, i have a 2006 lexus rx330 awd, that i will need to replace the Throttle body. I ram across two hoses. One on the right is coolant. The left hose i have not unplug it.. do you know what is that connected too and soni need to bleed those two lines afyer replcaing the tb? Thank ypu sir.
We took our 2016 Dodge Journey crossroad to a garage and had it replaced. It was still doing the same thing. The throttle body light came on. The garage replaced it again incase the 1st was defected. After $1000 dollars nothing has changed we are still going through the same problem. What could be going on?
Hi there My chevy blazer 08, 6 cylinders, giving rough ideleing for the first 30 minutes, and run properly and perfectly after that. After testing it showed P 1516, P 2101 I changed the throttle body 5 times (used ones), but usles. What is that needs to get hot to run the engine properly?
The codes you're referencing are correlation codes - the ECM thinks the throttle plate isn't where it should be based on the feedback from the TPS sensors, which are a part of the throttle body assembly. Are you making sure the replacements are good and clean before installing? Have you tried to clear the ECM memory by disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for 30 minutes or so?
Thank you for your reply Yes I did check all the above mentioned steps Cleaning, recoding, Ground Every thing Still It needs 30 minutes to start smoothly
@@nabilhhasan i would check the ECT and IAT temperature readings while the engine is cold to see if they agree. The ECM may not be commanding a cold enrichment.
My car rx330 vibrates lightly aroound 650 rpm, my mechanic recomended throttle body cleaning. After the sevice, my car ping very bad, and is very hard to start compare to pre-service. Do you know what might be the cause of the problem?
I have been struggling to find a good local mechanic. Everyone wants to replace half of the parts in my vehicle to fix it. That approach to me is completely amateur and unprofessional. I can do that, easily, myself. Perhaps you can provide some guidance. I've started to have an intermittent issue with my '06 Nissan Frontier V6 4.0L and it seems to be getting worse, but still intermittent. On two occasions, now, I've had the car start shaking at idle/slow speed/traffic and at that time it would not respond to throttle (limp+shaking? the SES light was blinking). After pulling over, turning the car off, then back on after a minute or so (maybe doing this several times), the issue would go away. Now, what I notice most is drop in RPM at stop signs and car vibrates, sometimes it's really noticeable (this happens intermittently, not at every stop or even every day) but I haven't tracked the exact RPM when that happens, yet. I replaced spark plugs (140k miles on the car), cleaned the TB, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed bank2 camshaft sensor, changed PCV valve, did the throttle relearning procedure few times. The problem isn't going away. The car drives fine once it's up to speed. I have few questions. If the TB fails to respond during idle, would that cause the car to stall/lose RPM to where it idles really low, few hundred RPM)? How many degrees (about) does it open during idle? does it open at all during idle? (there is no separate IAC on this car) My car threw several codes, one cat cell pass side getting deficient reading. Removed the code, the car drove fine for 300~ miles. I doubt that causes my car to all of a sudden loose RPM and fine the next 100 miles. One time after the 2nd bad shaking the car threw a misfire on cyl1, but I doubt that's the problem. I cleared the misfire code and it still vibrates from time to time at stop signs without any misfire codes. Now I'm thinking the throttle body is sticking/not responding (properly or at all) at random during idle. Is this possible? what else could cause such loss of RPM. Can I have intermittent misfire one cyl that would cause such bad shaking and loss of responsiveness from throttle input and not register as misfire? Can a failing MAF sensor do this? Dying ECU? I don't have the advanced tools to test the throttle body or MAF. I've only got multimeter and code reader. Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply. The one observation you made that really stands out is the SES light flashing. That means the ECM is detecting a serious misfire and it will shut down the fuel to those cylinders to protect the catalytic converters. That is the first thing to ID and troubleshoot. Have you had any misfire codes other than the P0301? Since the problem occurs intermittently and the engine has some miles on it, I would start with the basics. Is the engine mechanically sound? That can be tough to answer nowadays - many engines can suffer from intermittent valve sealing issues that a conventional compression test won't catch. You need a scope to view the ignition pattern or, better still, a scope mated to a pressure transducer to view the changes in cylinder pressure while the engine is running. I have videos on all of these techniques - just check our channel page. As for finding a good technician, you might try searching for one here: iatn.net/repair. This is a network of technicians that at least know enough to seek out the advice and opinions of others. Ask the shop who is the iATN member and then talk to them - ask if they have a scope and know how to do in-cylinder pressure testing or how to read a secondary ignition pattern. Hope this helps!
I got P0420 first. Then after the first SES flashing/shaking/stall, the P0420 code again (no misfire codes). Then after 2nd shaking/limp mode incident I received P0301 misfire on cyl 1. No other codes, no P0420 this time. The car sounds like it did when I didn't have this issue. The only ongoing problem that I know of right now is low idle RPM. Sometimes it's idles fine at about 650-700rpm and at others it drops to below 600. I'm replacing the MAF sensor and 2nd camshaft sensor in few days. I already replaced one of the two camshaft pos sensors. My concern is why low idle, that wasn't happening before. It now will drop RPM to below 650 at stops and the car vibrates some. I'm thinking this low idle RPM issue is related to my SES blinking incidents. Could a failing oxygen sensors throw off ECM to where it malfunctions in such a way that would cause serious misfire or what sensors could do this? If I'm experiencing a serious misfire when the car is about to stall and goes into limp mode, why is it not throwing any codes? it only threw the P0301 after the 2nd time it happened, not the first. I found few IATN registered shops in my area. Will go and talk to them. Most shops here are mostly mechanics, they have no clue about the scope and how to use it.
@@biker55555 Take a look at this video - with a focus on the method I'm demonstrating at the 13:30 mark and on: th-cam.com/video/bqecNpgz7Uk/w-d-xo.html Using this mode on your scan tool should provide you with a clearer picture of what cylinders are messing up. Remember - start with the basics before you start swapping parts.
Hi. I've got a 2003 Montero Limited 3.8L. Twice so far (1,000 miles apart) mine has gone into a condition where it will not accelerate. It idles and starts fine, but will not go over 40mph on level road, and takes a long time to get to that speed (severel minutes). It will be fine one moment and then begin this malfunction in the middle of driving it, in town or on interstate. I do have a TPS sensor code (P2135) but also cam and crankshaft sensors codes. The timing system is fine and it doesn't jerk or do anything strange except refuse to accelerate. I can turn it off and after 20 minutes it will operate fine again. Is the the TPS sensor getting hot and then it fails?
Good day Pete I'm having trouble with my Toyota yaris 2012. The idle drops when A.C. is On and it only idle at 650rpm to 700rpm. I hope you can help me, thanks in advance
If the idle drops, it may indicate that the a/c compressor is harder to turn than it should be. Try removing the a/c drive belt and see what happens when you turn the a/c on. The A/C clutch should still engage and the ECM should still make the idle correction for the extra load on the engine - so if your idle increases I would check the a/c drive and compressor for worn bearings.
If you don't have access to a good aftermarket service information source or the OE site (visit www.NASTF.org for info), you may be able to find a printed manual for your car at your local auto parts house.
Great job done.. I have Europe Toyota hilux diesel engine 2017 With trouble code p0122 there is no power input to the throttle motor as l check by Gscan2 live data How I can solve this stalling problem of the engine Thanks bro
@@MotorAgeMagazine with a scan tool. I noticed the rpm will be correct while engine is running then within 10 seconds rpm goes to 9742 and stays there. So im trying to do throttle sweep test on my scanner but i keep getting engine speed detected while engine is off!
@@moecapitolnetwork2916 Have you tried a different scan tool? What kind is yours? Also, are you trying to graph the TPS data? That won't catch a glitch - the refresh rate on a scan tool is too low.
I just replaced my throttle body on my Cadillac escalade esv 6.0 and when I turn the key forward the throttle body is just clicking why is this any help I would gladly appreciate
My throttle body was turning on and off yesterday, everything time I turned off and restarted my car it reset and started working again for awhile, today it hasn't had any issues and I've been driving for hours. Should I still replace it?
Great video. 2011 Chrysler 200 2.4l. Swapped out throttle body after it went to limp mode. Now I have intermittent throttle body issues. It was a cheap ($100 - $200 cheaper) than anything else. I've thrown some parts and noticed a rubbed wire. Which will be fixed this weekend. Should I get a better throttle body to see if that helps?
I have a question any experts may want to answer. Could a bad alternator cause this throttle body error to occur, seeing that the vehicle isnt getting sufficient dc power?
If the diode pack in the alternator fails, it can allow excessive AC voltage on the DC line - called "AC Ripple" - and that can confuse the sensor signals rec'd by the ECM. But not for low DC voltage - that comes from the battery. If you are getting low DC voltage, look for a voltage drop in the circuit.
Cleaned my TB, and now my idle is jumping 1200-2000 or so but mainly only in neutral, have tried a relearn, and still nothing, 12 civic si, not sure what’s next
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I cleaned the throttle body of my wife's NIssan Note. It gave me a hell of problems, engine riving at idle. I followed the procedure on the service manual but couldn't solve the problem. I sent the car to Nissan dealership, they could NOT fix it with their ScanTool as well, but told me either the ECM or ETB(Electronic Throttle Body) is defect. I drove home because letting them change the ECM or the ETB will cost me a fortune. I ordered an ETB whose manufacture has a good reputation. With the help of a Scan Tool I bought, and your trick " brake and Gear" in position, it finally worked.
Jesussss . The way you explain calmly makes me wishes you to be my mechanical lecturer.
What the hell Jesus name got to do with your problem there millions of words to use leave his name out of your vanity mouth.
These should of just stayed mechanical
Certainly things today are unnecessarily complex under the hood
I'm from a family of mechanics. This is Small talk for many of us. Remember the days when you opened the hood and all there is was a battery and engine. Not a ton of plastic spaghetti and sensors. Argggg 😤
Thinking the same thing
Yeah if you want less performance, then sure
@@edocsil1635 and greater reliability? Definitely. I like that trade.
MY MAN……. Thank you so much! You helped me figure out that the new motor and trans I put in my 07 trailblazer was as good as I knew it was. I had some things going on that I just could not explain to any of the other techs I worked with, and yes I did try to clean, relearn and had the computer flashed as well… nothing worked, so I found this video and fixed my 2 year old headache. Again thank you so much!
What was the issue?
I got a 07 trail blazer too it got crank just no Start after I get it to start I drive it about 20 mins and it leave me there
This nick guy's comment makes no sense 🤦♂️
Great video, and Duralast is probably great too, but not only that i can't afford it, I would not pay that kind of money for any throttle body! I can almost buy a whole used car for that price! A Duralast throttle body for an 02 Volvo S60 2.4T costs $822.99 at Autozone! Not just an arm and a leg, they want a whole body for that throttle body, lol! What are they smoking?! Crack? I wonder how many units they actually sold and who would buy one at that price? Bosch unit is OEM and it's half the price of Duralast! Now, is Duralast really twice as good? I doubt it, unless it's made by hand mostly out of gold or something. Still can't be twice as good. I like to dream of parts that were "built to last"! :-) Thanks for the quality video, tho...
Oh man if only companies made parts with the goal of lasting as long as possible. I can say with near certainty that they do not, there's money to be made in replacement parts. One day soon, for a thousand years Jesus will rule the nations with an iron rod. Hopefully this is one of the things he fixes
Cause it's a Volvo buy American next time
Hyundai wants about $700 for a throttle body for my car. Duralast is $189 at Autozone, and comes with a limited lifetime warranty (warrantied until I sell the car).
Autozone offers several other aftermarket throttle bodies; but those only have 1 year warranties. I'll stick with the Duralast if I need one (I'm researching possible problems and possible fixes before I start to take things apart). But cleaning the throttle body makes sense as it has over 300,000 miles on it.
Thank you so much for explaining this in great detail. I recently got the throttle body swapped on my 2020 Versa and I left the dealership and 10 miles away, the car began to shudder. Eventually the engine shut off and their excuse was "it didn't take the programming" I had to come back for the relearning.. The dealership drove it 20 miles instead of the previous 3 miles when I got the car back a second time. So far, it looks like everything is holding up.
Thanks for making this Video.
Im not a mechanic and Im trying to get a little old 2006 Honda Accord to run properly.
First issue is it doesn't read the scanner when you connected to the scanner I took it to a couple of autopart stores to used their scanner and it just doesn't work.
The issue the car is as you drive the car for about 15 or 20 minutes the car slows down even if I add more speed and press the gas all the way down to to floor it just doesn't get more power.
I know I need to get that scanner connector fix before I do anything else to the car but watching this video taught me one of many things that might be the cause of the poor acceleration issue
Again Thanks for making this video it was very well made at first when you said that you have to reset the new Throtte I said oooh nooo I need one of those computers to reset it oooooh mannnn but then at the end of the video you showed us how easy it was to reset it.
I said I could do that.
🙂👍Thank Very Much.
Glad you liked it. Your description of the problem sounds a lot like a clogged exhaust. You may want to disconnect the exhaust where it enters the converter and take a look inside...maybe even drive the car with the exhaust open to see if you notice the difference.
You could get a blocked fuel pump filter
I'm a neighborhood mechanic of 15 yrs and my experience with the symptom you describe happened to a Toyota Corolla that had bad slide pins in the front calipers. After about 15 to 20 mins of driving the issue was a bit baffling because the car struggled to increase speed due to these seized brakes! Again, the last area I would've pinpointed because the car had a complete front brake rebuild from a corporate shop the year prior. The slide pins in the calipers were BONE DRY and the rubber boots were not seated properly. This caused the calipers to keep the pistons pressed further out and the brake fluid wasn't returning to the MC all in due process. Needless to say, problem solved and I gained respect as a trustworthy neighborhood mechanic! 👍🏾
Did you ever find out the problem to your car? I have the same issue in 200p Kia Sedona.
The most helpful video ever lead me straight to the problem and didnt just throw multiple possibilities where I’d get lost thank you 🙏🏿
Wow such valuable information. Especially since I just purchased a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis. That is the first year of those cares for "drive by wire" I just learned.
Thanks for sharing this video on electronic throttle body troubleshooting. It's helpful for diagnosing and repairing engine issues. Great work!
Hi guys.... I've got a 2012 Chery J1...i had the same problem but... But I tried a temporary fix which was to use a fuel injector cleaner ...wait until the tank is almost empty... Add a small bottle of Injector cleaner... Approx 150mls.. Add Fuel and drive away. The result was amazing... No more hesitation when acceleration was applied... A more smoother ride.... It's being a few days so far and the car is definitely running a lot better.. What have u got to loose?..
I'v replace the throttle body 3 times on my 2008 chysler 300, cleaned them as well. Someone told me its the throttle body sensor that need to be replaced. I dont know where the sensor is located. I found the part on rockauto. So will you please make a video just about the throttle sensor and how to replace it.
It’s Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS) and is attached to either left or right side of the Electrical Throttle Body . One side of the Throttle Body is power connector and the other side is attached to it is Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS) that reads and sends information to the car computer the position of the Butterfly ( Blade ) when we press the pedal . The car computer (ECM) accordingly adjust the fuel spray in the fuel injectors .
It is part of the tb... Mabey its the harness / pins / wiring in the plug that goes to the tps ON the etb🫡
Bro you the best man, - wish you were in my area. i'd be over with biscuits and a notepad lol
Thank you Pete. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
Wow what a great video
Sir I have corolla 09 while driving the car goes off when I try to slow down
Going through similar issues. Changed mine a couple of times, it rev very high each time. Let me know how you solve yours
Hello,
I have an Alfa Romeo Giulietta QV 1.8 turbo petrol.
My car has developed a problem with the idle hunting after reseting the self learned parameters of the ECU. The car starts perfect, idles good until the temperature start rising and the engine starts calculating the mixture, than the idle becomes erratic...goes up and down and than stabilizes and than again and than stabilizes. Under acceleration the car runs just great with no issues 🤷🏻♂️. The car has no check engine light on!!!
I have changed coolant temperature sensor, cleaned MAF and MAP sensors, changed spark plugs and coils, going to change the wide band pre-catalyst Lambda but the old one does go in closed loop. The only thing not changed yet is the electronic throttle body. I did try to clean it and was not dirty but I did move it with my fingers. Coul this cause a fault in the throttle body...if yes why it did appear only after the ECU reset 🤷🏻♂️
Please give me an idea what coul be the trouble
I love watching you work on 4 cyl engines GOOD JOB BRO!!!
I just bought a 2013 Dodge avenger with a 2.4 l engine and I had to replace the thermostat housing but now the idle is kind of funny so I'm thinking this may be my problem. If I hold the gas pedal down for 2000 rpm's it goes up to 2000 down to 1800 backup to 2000 down 1800. I'm gonna try to clean it 1st but I have a feeling I will have to replace it. Thanks for the video
I have a 2014 town and country. Lightening bolt comes on and van won’t start. I cleaned the throttle body and it was pretty clean TBH. Under 70k miles. How do I test the TB or pedal sensor or do I just throw parts?
I cleaned the throttle body on my 2011 gmc 1500 5.3 I start it up N push against the throttle body blade(butterfly)to see if it’s clean in there it pops and shuts off the truck now when starting up have high rpms 2.5k-3k do I replace throttle body ?
Do you have any trouble codes in the ECM or is the Check Engine light on?
@@MotorAgeMagazine l think need to be relearn with my best regards
@@MotorAgeMagazine I have a 2003 sierra and Im having pretty much the same problem except mine revs up to about 4200 rpm and I have a check engine light the code is po122 and it is Throttle/pedal position sensor/ switch A circuit low do you happen to have any ideas?
If you are pushing on the throttle blade you probably have removed the intake air duct, which usually contains the intake air temperature sensor, and/or the mass airflow sensor. You can't expect the fuel injection to work properly without the IAT or MAF sensor(s) in the intake air flow.
That is an amazingly comprehensive tutorial. Thank you. I have an Alfa Romeo Brera 2.2 Petrol. I’ve lean the TB and it’s now wonderful. Can anyone tell me how to increase idle speed from 8,000 currently to 10,000. How do I do an idle relearn on an Alfa?
Hi, thank you for your insightful video. I have a 2003 Tacoma prerunner 2,7L Reg cab. The mechanic fixed the check engine light due to the dirty mass air flow sensor he thinks? I drove it for three days and I experienced the same problem when I started the truck. The initial start always came with the rough idle then drive fine after that but the engine light came back on. I replaced the mass air flow but that didn’t solve the check engine light. The truck runs fine and the second days start the engine starts with no rough idle…it only starts with the rough idle when I don’t drive more than two days. Any help would really appreciate it. Could it be the fuel injectors gone bad?
What code or codes are turning on the Check Engine light?
PO300,3002,and P03003. Also, I had changed all the Ignition core and spark plugs..did try clearing the throttle body as well..
I have a 2016 Jeep Cherokee 3.2l Trailhawk. I’ve replaced the throttle body, the mass air flow temp sensor and the accelerator pedal with sensor. After each replacement of each part, the red lightening bolt indicator would return. Some drives it wouldn’t happen, but most times I take it out, it pops back up on my dash board. Is there something that I’m missing as to why this keeps happening?
the lightning bolt is a warning for electronic throttle control problems and be related to a lot of stuff. Is your fuel pump (in tank) operating correctly. check fuel pressure.
My 2003 Tacoma sr5 stalled on me and gave me a code P2121 - Throttle/ pedal position sensor/ switch D circuit range/ performance. So I bought TPS and it worked for a day. And today it stalled again and gave me code P2138 throttle/ pedal position sensor / switch D /E voltage correlation. Any idea what can it be? Throttle body opens butterfly 1/4 not even half way when I move the accelerator wire that’s connected to throttle body.
At 5:11 my mom ride has a check engine light when i used her ride, it's a 2019 chevy cruze and it's has a electrical throttle body her air filter was dirty so replace that and went to check her throttle body but no build up has occurred yet so i still cleaned it but I wanted to see if it was working or not, got my phone out and postion my phone to record the throttle body while I pressed on the Accelerator and once that was done, check the phone and it starting to make noise every time it would open
My 2008 Escalade 6.2 "hiccups" with varying severity under light load at part throttle, especially when climbing a grade at 40+/- mph and between 1200 and 1800 rpm. No codes are thrown. The vehicle has 210,000 miles on it and I acquired it with 190K. I plan to check the APPS and the TPS; perhaps the variable resistor quadrant(s) have a rough spot? Any ideas would be appreciated. Jeff.
Well explained. I have the same throttle; my issue is that the deceleration is weak. It takes seconds or so to return back to the initial position. Do you know how I can fix this?
How I wish I had found this when it first dropped. Replaced the MAF 3 years ago & only drove the Ranger 20 miles before parking it. Six months later it’s throwing the same code. I’m told to drive it over 50 miles an hour for 50 miles & that should do it… it didn’t. Next day found a bird’s nest in the intake. Still ran fine, tho. Cleaned everything out & eventually the code cleared. After moving it around all summer, today I decided to sell it… it started to crank & then nothing. The code is back!
My 07 VW City Golf Mar 4 (2.0L) Engine light is on and I scanned and was showing P0068 which is related to MAP/MAF. What I want to do is, first of all, replaced the air filter, then clean up the throttle body, my question is, if I take out the throttle body, is it to be reprogrammed or just as you said in the video, just follow your procedure and let it relearn. Thank you.
Hi bud, I have the weirdest problem! I went to change the air filter and thought to check and clean the throttle body butterfly. It was fully open which I thought was strange as had no real issues, I mean I have thought the car was a little sluggish on acceleration (delayed) and thought maybe my EGR choking. I always put good quality treatment into fuel and try different types so thought maybe not so... Lately had a little stuttering at the first few lights after leaving the house first thing but not pulling off the drive?
My throttle body was fully open with engine off, I sprayed it and wiped but was pretty clean... as you could wish for, I sprayed in with engine running spurts of spray at a time but no movement with butterfly?
I had my naibours grandchild come with half decent scan tool tablet a month or two earlier to check car after I gave him a toe and he said that there was no codes, which he thought was suprising. I dont know if he knows fully whats wha but he mentioned my pedal showing depressed 19% ?? he didnt start the car with scan tool plugged in which I asked and said that I thought you could but he said not with his tool. He said he wiped the car for any codes anyhows. Oh I did have a funny few weeks with my battery dying a while back and got that checked but came back fine (just needs a charge so I bought a smart charger and let it do its thing but it kept dying on me and then I put the battery on a full repair charge and its been fine since plus i've kept car in a lower gear to charge up more as my brother said I was driving like a pussy... trying to save miliage 😂 Any idea bud why my butterfly is full open with no real issue on idle or revs going high and once the car warms up all other issues apart from sluggish accelorator dissapear! oh and I disconnected the battery a few times to charge so I assume the sensor would have reset as ive heard on another vid to disconect the negative.
I have been worried why my surpentine/alternator belt seems slightly worn on the outside but looks great on the ribbed inside? I thought maybe my issues was the belt tensioner or idle pulley but strange how the black is wearing off on the outside and all looked good with no movement on the tensioner. I did hear the other night late on when it was quiet a little rythmic chirp ever so quiet which i've not heard before which makes me think the idle pulley but cant make head way with the throttle body butterly fully open?
Honda civic tourer 1.6 i-dtech diesel
Thanks... For the video..
I had a problem with these kinda throttle; it would work when ignition is on and stops when engine is running??!!
Regarding the relearn section: I have a Skoda Roomster 1.9 TDI. Would i have to do a relearn for every brand of throttle body, or do some not need it?
Hello, Pete. If you have a higher voltage in one of the APP sensors as you sweep the throttle( from normal to higher than specs), how could that affect the TPS sensors? Your answer will be highly appreciated.
The ECM moves the throttle in response to the APP inputs. If the input is wrong the throttle position may be off. .
@@MotorAgeMagazine Thank you, Sir.
@@MotorAgeMagazine what if the plate is opening fine but no revs 🤔
@@mattlawton4715 Interesting question. If more air is entering the engine, RPMs should rise. Is the air entering the engine?? Is the ECM seeing the throttle opening and adding additional fuel?? I would want to see some scan data for this one...
@@MotorAgeMagazine yes like if the injectors stayed at idle but the throttle plate was opening so getting moor air but fuel not increasing 🤔.
Thanks for the tips how do you clean the electronic throttle body
First, you need to check the service information for your vehicle to see if cleaning is even recommended. If it is, I like to spray the cleaner on a clean rag and then wipe away as much as possible. Some light applications directly to the heavier deposits is ok - just done over do it. You can use cotton swabs to clean around the throttle shaft and the edges of the throttle plate.
@@MotorAgeMagazine please my car goes off while driving or while slow down after a long drive
Hello! Nice video! Can I have some help? I am struggling with my Mercedes w221 s320cdi. The problem happened when I turned off the esp and flored it and it started making weard whistling sounds and it gets in emergency mode or limp mode after been throttled for a couple of seconds in the turbo area. I have driven her to the service and there were no damage from the turbo ways. I was wondering if throttle body could be the problem ?
I'm not familiar with this model. Have you checked for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)?
Check for vacuum leaks
Yeah, I think found the problem. There is a gap between my turbo and the aluminium pipe that goes to the intercooler. I will get that fix on Wednesday and hopefully, it will fix my problem.
Love this..... is there a list of all tools I will need before I start so I have them ready and in one place so I'm not surprised ?
The first tool you'll need is a source of service information specific to your vehicle. Make sure to read over the procedure before you even open the hood. Actual tooling will be dependent on the make and model but basic hand tools are usually all you need. Be sure you understand the relearn procedure for your car!
55555
Would that be a reason for the car not even start?
That’s what I’ve been trying to get an answer to for the last couple of hours.
is it possible to use the scan tool if it has PIDs to view the throttle body readings rather than a scope or would you still connect a scope?
You may be able to command the throttle plate open and closed to verify motor operation. You can also graph the throttle position sensor PIDs but the refresh rate is too slow to catch a glitch.
@@MotorAgeMagazine thanks
Thanks for the video!
Can I get help with the diagnosis of my car?
2010 Toyota matrix with 1.8l.
Cleaned the excessively dirty throttle body.
Replaced coil packs and plugs. Cleaned mass air sensor. Replaced filter changed crankcase sensor.
Initial issue was a backfire under the hood that blew off the vacuum line under the throttle body.
Also check engine light sand cylinder 3 and 1 misfire.
While changing the plugs and coil packs, I noticed oil in the number 3 cylinder and a small amount in the number four cylinder. I cleaned a cylinders and replaced the valve cover gasket.
I'm still having idle too high and it fluctuates just slightly about a plus or minus 50 RPM fluctuation while driving and while idling
It was after replacing everything but before cleaning the throttle body that I noticed a new code. P2103.
This led me to clean mass sensor and remove and clean throttle body.
Excellent video Pete. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and videos. Artie 🇺🇸😊
I have 2010 toyota corolla. similar throttle body top right cornar there is a screw hidden in a glue type material.
can you please tell me, what is the function of that. and how it help in adjusting a specific parameter?
I have observed that changing the position of that screw make throttal pedal to respond differently and effect the drivability .
I have an issue of poor idling. throttle body is cleaned. every possibility has been checked but could not fix the issue.
Thank you for this video. Can i open the throttle body plate with the key on engine off by pressing the gas pedal?
Did you figure out if that's possible the answer to your question is really important for be to diagnose my friend car
@@rocklobstar5672 i did not
is idle re-learn procedure applicable in 1996 ecm design engine
Not likely
Great video! I took my throttle body off,because my 2013 Charger has the red lighting bolt on dashboard.Something is rattling around in the throttle body.Doesn’t seem normal?
Likely not. :-)
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
May I ask what you used to clean under the gasket?
My 2004 Acura MDX goes to 3000 RPMs when accelerating from 0 to about 40miles per hour. I need to often take my foot of the gas to let the RPMs go down? What could be the reason? My throttle body has built in mass air flow sensor sensor and idle air control valve if I am not mistaken.
Check engine light is on (has been for about a year. Been to several mechanics and no one can figure out the cause), and have now experienced Low Engine Power warning several times. Cleaned the throttle body and reset the vehicle as per this vid. Works for a few days then low power warning again. I drive a 2010 Buick Lacrosse, about 170k miles. What could be going on? Is it time to get rid of it or can I get some more life out of it? Great vid, btw.
The Low Engine Power warning can be caused by a variety of problems. Personally, I would begin with a complete testing of the engine's primary systems - compression/sealing, volumetric efficiency, ignition and fuel. Are there any codes stored (is the Check Engine light on)?
@MotorAgeMagazine Check Engine light has been on for over a year. I've had several mechanics look at it. The car is returned to me with the light off, then it comes back on a few days or weeks later. That's why I've taken it to different mechanics, but end up with the same result. Honestly, I think they're just disconnecting and reconnecting the battery so that the light goes off. I don't know the code numbers. Car is immobilized right now (due to low engine power).
Hey, Pete. Watching you excellent video in Florida. In one of your videos, you talked about how the PCM/ECM does its testing: Rationality, Functionality etc. I would like to know how they say that both ,the accelerator pedal and the electronic throttle body can cause the P2135 code on Nissan. I understand that the pcm checks both sensors (APP and TPS) with KOEO, for performance, rationality. My question is, if the APP has some malfunctions and not the ETC, why the engineers don't just set a code for each individually? As far as I know, the APP sends a signal to the pcm and the pcm commands the ETC to open the throttle valve and the TPS sensors send a feed back to the pcm about the speed and opening of the throttle plate. If the APP voltage were too high or too low or not performing well at a certain time, shouldn't the pcm set a code for the APP only, even though a bad APP voltage can cause the pcm to command a higher or lower throttle opening that the TPS sensors will report to the pcm? I think it's bad engineering.
According to the service information for a Nissan Altima, this is a rationality code that compares the output signal of the two TPS sensors. They should agree. The fault will either be in the wiring, or (more likely) in the sensor itself. Of course, always check for any Technical Service Bulletins that may apply. The function of the APP sensor shouldn't be related to this code.
@@MotorAgeMagazine Thank you, Pete, for your elaborate explanation. As you said, the function of the APP sensors shouldn't be related to the p2135 code. Unfortunately, the APP sensor circuit is included in the diagnosis of the code.
@@perez7667 I found a few generic resources, both online and on TH-cam, that included a faulty APP as a possible cause, but the factory info does not - for the model I checked, anyway.
@@MotorAgeMagazine Mine was for a 2004 Nissan Murano. Thank you for your help.
You are replacing the throttle for the glitches shown on the scope, on the motor circuit?
Greetings from Hartford Connecticut!! Thanks for putting so many educational videos on youtube!!! Thank you!!! Tell Pete that I love his videos and that this is one of my favorite youtube channels!! Keep up the good work!!!! Be safe!!!!
Great video. Where do you get the wiring diagrams from?
I have access to different professional service information systems and occasionally use the OEM service sites.
@@MotorAgeMagazine would you mind sharing the sites? Thanks in advance.
@@kalindambozi2356 Are you a professional shop or just looking for info on your personal vehicle?
Am a mechanic, recently ventured into auto electrical and electronics. The challenge i have is finding correct wiring diagrams
@@kalindambozi2356 Visit www.nastf.org. You'll find all the OEM service sites listed there.
I believe Wells makes the sensors and ignition parts under contract with Auto Zone . They are then branded Duralast . They are high quality . I can't imagine what a dealer would charge to diagnose and install an electronic throttle body . Is that drive by wire worth it in the bigger picture ? Not only the motor inside , but with dual TPS - if one goes bad you are paying big time for an assembly . I just saw a video where a fuel pump relay was replaced on a BMW . A " regular " relay was installed . BUT - the OEM has a resistor to prevent voltage spikes to the ECM . About a week later , the ECM was ruined and cost OVER $ 1000.00 at the dealer !
Oem is usually better that's why it's more and cause it's name branded
1000 dollar put that into another car
Fantastic fantastic too too GOOD teacher i would like to learn much more from you
Thank you
Very much
Ihave a 2001 ford fusion with a 2.5 liter engine. My engine light and wrench light came on and threw a 2119 code. ( engine throddle body actuator) and a emission warning. I sprayed and cleaned the throttle body but didnt do a re programming.
Hi thank you for the video, should the throttle stay open when the car is turned off ?
No has to be in close position.😊
I have a question?
I have a 2006 G35 sedan and so far I changed the catalytic converters,A/T FR/B solenoid,Transmission Temperature sensor, fresh transmission fluid and filter, MAF , APPS, new battery, and new brake pads, plus fresh oil change and filter. My car symptoms are slip & vdc lights are on at the same time as the check engine light, late gear shifts, hesitant to accelerate from complete stop, RPMs are hesitant when pedal is fully depressed (very sluggish rev ups), reduced power, delayed response when stepping on gas pedal. Ive done the idle relearn procedure many times but its not sticking. Im lost , HELP!
Sorry for the late reply. Let's start with the Check Engine light - what codes are stored?
Thank you sir I have a learned a lot have a blessed day!
What if idle is really low at stop lights but good after about 30 minutes of driving . my car shakes and sometimes I get bad fuel economy along with horrible takeoff. What is the issue ? Did the relearn the sensors cleaned ,the throttle cleaned and fuel injectors changed . still getting low rpm. G37 sedan 2019
Did you perform the relearn with the engine cold or at operating temperature? Check the procedure and make sure which is specified for your vehicle.
Hi Mr am having a problem with my throttle body for ford fiesta mk6 st 150 2.0l I cleaned it up and then when I the car it only rav once and then stop raving go back to limp mode I bought another throttle it's still doing the same thing the machanic think it's a ECU
Additionally, I can arrest the "hiccup" by throttling up to 2000 rpm or more thus forcing a kickdown. I just had the transmission rebuilt at considerable cost and it continues to "hiccup". The local trans shop sees no transmission codes. The roughness can't be good on the transfer case chain and other components.
Thank you so much for this Uncle. God bless🙌
I replaced the MAF Sensor and the engine line went out, but it still wont go faster than 35-40 mph, im thinking this seems 'easy' enough so i'll try removing it and possibly replacing it.
You probably have an vacuum leak or a clogged catalytic converter.
Did you ever find out the solution?
Will this relearn work for an 05 Cadillac CTS?
Hi, i have an Audi Q5 2.0 Tdi 2010 2 days ago i want to clean the Trottle Bdoy i found it in Open Position ( the Engine was Off) is that Normal ?
I have a p2111, code throttle body stuck open. I replaced the throttle body w/ sensor and still have the same code ? Im not sure if itsthe ecm or pedal position sensor, any ideas ?
In my Lexus Lx470 2005 , I found that when I press the accelerate fully (full gas) it goes maximum only at 2000 RPM and it doesn’t accelerate beyond that. But when I put to neutral it’s goes beyond 2000 RPM.
elerator pedal. (See attached )
Looking for advice and fix.
Great video,good job,but it's not safe to rest/put any tools or parts on a battery.
Hi there Pete I'm currently having this problem with OBD P061C code any input will help
2013 5.0 mustang
This code is set with the calculated engine rpm is no in line with the desired (programmed) rpm for a specified time. On your Ford, it can be caused by a problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor signal to the PCM, or the Camshaft Position Sensor signals (two, I believe) to the PCM, or a problem with the PCM itself. But before you replace the PCM, make sure that the signals are strong, it has good power and grounds, and the connector pins are not damaged or corroded.
I would use a scope at the PCM connector to monitor the CKP and CMP signals, looking for any fallouts or inconsistencies. If that's ok, I'd check power and grounds to the PCM next. Good luck!
Excellent detail explanation. Great video
I can't find where is located on cadillac xt4 2019
My 1996 1.6L Toyota camry throttle body had siezed. I pulled it out. Inspected it, tried to wiggle the plate open. It wouldn't budge. I called a friend over and he gave it a tap with a hammer and it worked!!!!!! Mind you my engine bay is spotless clean and the throttle body was in good shape no dirt inside. DONT BE AFRAID TO TAP IT WITH A HAMMER FIRST hahaha
Thank you for your information
What does each sensor do that is located in a throttle body for a 2002 Saturn
Thanks for the video, i have a 1 series 116i benzin 2007 manual bmw, with loss of power and hesitations, when ascending gears, from 1 to 2nd and so, on descending gears, no problem at all, no fault codes at all, changed throttle pedal and sensor, spark plugs, no result. Can you please give me a direction where to.look
Is the Check Engine light on? Have you checked for trouble codes?
@@MotorAgeMagazine thank you for reply, nothing, no single code, except the ac fan, all components without any code, no missfire,
@@mycomment6699 Forgot to ask - is this a gasoline or diesel vehicle?
@@MotorAgeMagazine it is Gazoline
@@mycomment6699 There are a number of reasons a gasoline engine can develop low power issues. Restricted exhaust, cam timing, low compression, turbo malfunction - the list goes on. You may want to enlist the aid of a qualified technician to help you isolate the fault(s). It will likely require diagnostic equipment you may not have - factory level scan tool and diagnostic oscilloscope would be on my list.
Can anyone tell me if the throttle body on a 2004 camry 4 cylinder has the idle air control valve built in? The Chilton manual says both the 4 and 6 cylinder which has a throttle position sensor cannot be replaced separately.
Hi sir, i have a 2006 lexus rx330 awd, that i will need to replace the Throttle body. I ram across two hoses. One on the right is coolant. The left hose i have not unplug it.. do you know what is that connected too and soni need to bleed those two lines afyer replcaing the tb? Thank ypu sir.
They are both coolant lines and you can pinch them off as I did here. If you do that, you shouldn't lose enough coolant to worry about.
@@MotorAgeMagazine ok thank you.. will do that.. have a good day sir..
Great video,thanks
2011 fusion continued. I do have a weak battery can that cause the throttle body actuator issue?
That's always the first thing to correct when dealing with any electrical issue or component problem.
We took our 2016 Dodge Journey crossroad to a garage and had it replaced. It was still doing the same thing. The throttle body light came on. The garage replaced it again incase the 1st was defected. After $1000 dollars nothing has changed we are still going through the same problem. What could be going on?
Is that the only complaint? That the light is on? Or is there another concern that started it all? Any DTCs that you know of?
Hi there
My chevy blazer 08, 6 cylinders, giving rough ideleing for the first 30 minutes, and run properly and perfectly after that.
After testing it showed
P 1516, P 2101
I changed the throttle body 5 times (used ones), but usles.
What is that needs to get hot to run the engine properly?
The codes you're referencing are correlation codes - the ECM thinks the throttle plate isn't where it should be based on the feedback from the TPS sensors, which are a part of the throttle body assembly. Are you making sure the replacements are good and clean before installing? Have you tried to clear the ECM memory by disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for 30 minutes or so?
Thank you for your reply
Yes I did check all the above mentioned steps
Cleaning, recoding,
Ground
Every thing
Still
It needs 30 minutes to start smoothly
@@nabilhhasan Do you have a scan tool?
No I don't have scan tools, but the garage has
@@nabilhhasan i would check the ECT and IAT temperature readings while the engine is cold to see if they agree. The
ECM may not be commanding a cold enrichment.
My car rx330 vibrates lightly aroound 650 rpm, my mechanic recomended throttle body cleaning. After the sevice, my car ping very bad, and is very hard to start compare to pre-service. Do you know what might be the cause of the problem?
Get at new throttle body
My tb on my diesel nazda 3 1.6 stays open when motor is off. Its that normal? Shoud it be closed? No check engine lights apeared.
For Diesels that's normal.
I have been struggling to find a good local mechanic. Everyone wants to replace half of the parts in my vehicle to fix it. That approach to me is completely amateur and unprofessional. I can do that, easily, myself.
Perhaps you can provide some guidance. I've started to have an intermittent issue with my '06 Nissan Frontier V6 4.0L and it seems to be getting worse, but still intermittent. On two occasions, now, I've had the car start shaking at idle/slow speed/traffic and at that time it would not respond to throttle (limp+shaking? the SES light was blinking). After pulling over, turning the car off, then back on after a minute or so (maybe doing this several times), the issue would go away. Now, what I notice most is drop in RPM at stop signs and car vibrates, sometimes it's really noticeable (this happens intermittently, not at every stop or even every day) but I haven't tracked the exact RPM when that happens, yet. I replaced spark plugs (140k miles on the car), cleaned the TB, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed bank2 camshaft sensor, changed PCV valve, did the throttle relearning procedure few times. The problem isn't going away. The car drives fine once it's up to speed. I have few questions. If the TB fails to respond during idle, would that cause the car to stall/lose RPM to where it idles really low, few hundred RPM)? How many degrees (about) does it open during idle? does it open at all during idle? (there is no separate IAC on this car) My car threw several codes, one cat cell pass side getting deficient reading. Removed the code, the car drove fine for 300~ miles. I doubt that causes my car to all of a sudden loose RPM and fine the next 100 miles. One time after the 2nd bad shaking the car threw a misfire on cyl1, but I doubt that's the problem. I cleared the misfire code and it still vibrates from time to time at stop signs without any misfire codes. Now I'm thinking the throttle body is sticking/not responding (properly or at all) at random during idle. Is this possible? what else could cause such loss of RPM. Can I have intermittent misfire one cyl that would cause such bad shaking and loss of responsiveness from throttle input and not register as misfire? Can a failing MAF sensor do this? Dying ECU? I don't have the advanced tools to test the throttle body or MAF. I've only got multimeter and code reader. Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply. The one observation you made that really stands out is the SES light flashing. That means the ECM is detecting a serious misfire and it will shut down the fuel to those cylinders to protect the catalytic converters. That is the first thing to ID and troubleshoot. Have you had any misfire codes other than the P0301?
Since the problem occurs intermittently and the engine has some miles on it, I would start with the basics. Is the engine mechanically sound? That can be tough to answer nowadays - many engines can suffer from intermittent valve sealing issues that a conventional compression test won't catch. You need a scope to view the ignition pattern or, better still, a scope mated to a pressure transducer to view the changes in cylinder pressure while the engine is running. I have videos on all of these techniques - just check our channel page.
As for finding a good technician, you might try searching for one here: iatn.net/repair. This is a network of technicians that at least know enough to seek out the advice and opinions of others. Ask the shop who is the iATN member and then talk to them - ask if they have a scope and know how to do in-cylinder pressure testing or how to read a secondary ignition pattern.
Hope this helps!
I got P0420 first. Then after the first SES flashing/shaking/stall, the P0420 code again (no misfire codes). Then after 2nd shaking/limp mode incident I received P0301 misfire on cyl 1. No other codes, no P0420 this time. The car sounds like it did when I didn't have this issue. The only ongoing problem that I know of right now is low idle RPM. Sometimes it's idles fine at about 650-700rpm and at others it drops to below 600. I'm replacing the MAF sensor and 2nd camshaft sensor in few days. I already replaced one of the two camshaft pos sensors. My concern is why low idle, that wasn't happening before. It now will drop RPM to below 650 at stops and the car vibrates some. I'm thinking this low idle RPM issue is related to my SES blinking incidents. Could a failing oxygen sensors throw off ECM to where it malfunctions in such a way that would cause serious misfire or what sensors could do this? If I'm experiencing a serious misfire when the car is about to stall and goes into limp mode, why is it not throwing any codes? it only threw the P0301 after the 2nd time it happened, not the first. I found few IATN registered shops in my area. Will go and talk to them. Most shops here are mostly mechanics, they have no clue about the scope and how to use it.
@@biker55555 Take a look at this video - with a focus on the method I'm demonstrating at the 13:30 mark and on: th-cam.com/video/bqecNpgz7Uk/w-d-xo.html
Using this mode on your scan tool should provide you with a clearer picture of what cylinders are messing up. Remember - start with the basics before you start swapping parts.
Thank you for sharing. 🤝 Your educational content was helpful. 👍👍
Hi. I've got a 2003 Montero Limited 3.8L. Twice so far (1,000 miles apart) mine has gone into a condition where it will not accelerate. It idles and starts fine, but will not go over 40mph on level road, and takes a long time to get to that speed (severel minutes). It will be fine one moment and then begin this malfunction in the middle of driving it, in town or on interstate. I do have a TPS sensor code (P2135) but also cam and crankshaft sensors codes. The timing system is fine and it doesn't jerk or do anything strange except refuse to accelerate. I can turn it off and after 20 minutes it will operate fine again. Is the the TPS sensor getting hot and then it fails?
Diagnose and repair the codes before you do anything else.
I'm having the same issue in my 2009 Kia Sedona,did you solve your problem?
@thomashumphrey1024 nope. No idea what caused it.
SAME PROBLEM RIGHT NOW WHAT WAS THE FIX ?@@thesetruths1404
Good day Pete
I'm having trouble with my Toyota yaris 2012. The idle drops when A.C. is On and it only idle at 650rpm to 700rpm.
I hope you can help me, thanks in advance
If the idle drops, it may indicate that the a/c compressor is harder to turn than it should be. Try removing the a/c drive belt and see what happens when you turn the a/c on. The A/C clutch should still engage and the ECM should still make the idle correction for the extra load on the engine - so if your idle increases I would check the a/c drive and compressor for worn bearings.
I'm learning ...where do I find model specific instructions on torque pressure and directions etc??
If you don't have access to a good aftermarket service information source or the OE site (visit www.NASTF.org for info), you may be able to find a printed manual for your car at your local auto parts house.
Great job done..
I have Europe Toyota hilux diesel engine 2017
With trouble code p0122 there is no power input to the throttle motor as l check by Gscan2 live data
How I can solve this stalling problem of the engine
Thanks bro
Great video!!
Hope you can help, 2012 silverado 6.0L trying to do a throttle sweep test, but i keep getting engine speed detected while engine is off!
How are you trying to perform this test and why?
@@MotorAgeMagazine with a scan tool.
I noticed the rpm will be correct while engine is running then within 10 seconds rpm goes to 9742 and stays there.
So im trying to do throttle sweep test on my scanner but i keep getting engine speed detected while engine is off!
@@moecapitolnetwork2916 Have you tried a different scan tool? What kind is yours? Also, are you trying to graph the TPS data? That won't catch a glitch - the refresh rate on a scan tool is too low.
@@MotorAgeMagazine thank you very the tips very helpful, i will try that.
Thank so much, great info.
COULD a CAT. converter cause this issue?? THKS
I just replaced my throttle body on my Cadillac escalade esv 6.0 and when I turn the key forward the throttle body is just clicking why is this any help I would gladly appreciate
My throttle body was turning on and off yesterday, everything time I turned off and restarted my car it reset and started working again for awhile, today it hasn't had any issues and I've been driving for hours. Should I still replace it?
No - it may be circuit or ECM related. Diagnose before you replace anything. TEST, don't GUESS. 🙂
Great video. 2011 Chrysler 200 2.4l. Swapped out throttle body after it went to limp mode. Now I have intermittent throttle body issues. It was a cheap ($100 - $200 cheaper) than anything else. I've thrown some parts and noticed a rubbed wire. Which will be fixed this weekend. Should I get a better throttle body to see if that helps?
Fix the wire first. 😊
@@MotorAgeMagazine I really hope it's the wire, I'm tired of all these expensive rabbit holes it could be. Ha ha
I’m guessing it wasn’t the wire?
Thanks sir I have Chevrolet Cruze his car RPM not working up to 1500 what problem I am using scanner but did not any code seeing in scanner
Throttle sensor could be your accelerator padel?
Does the car relearn After several drive cycles
I have a question any experts may want to answer. Could a bad alternator cause this throttle body error to occur, seeing that the vehicle isnt getting sufficient dc power?
If the diode pack in the alternator fails, it can allow excessive AC voltage on the DC line - called "AC Ripple" - and that can confuse the sensor signals rec'd by the ECM. But not for low DC voltage - that comes from the battery. If you are getting low DC voltage, look for a voltage drop in the circuit.
I doubt it, this guys video is really good and covers most likely faults
Cleaned my TB, and now my idle is jumping 1200-2000 or so but mainly only in neutral, have tried a relearn, and still nothing, 12 civic si, not sure what’s next