I'm a retired ASE Master Technician that was trained at the GM Training College in Atlanta by the experts from GM, engineers who designed cars for a living, and this is some of what I learned about oils there. NO oil is "good for" 20,000 miles unless it's in an engine running on propane and here's why. *_There are no filters out there good enough to filter out the carbon!_* Internal combustion engines that burn gasoline or diesel make microscopic clumps of carbon atoms that stick to the oil on the cylinder walls and get into the oil. They're like *FINE SANDPAPER* and they polish the metal parts, and polish them, and polish them... Until the clearances get big enough to cause something to break, either a lifter that can't hold pressure because it bleeds off too much oil too fast or a rod bearing that bleeds off to much oil from the journal so the inserts make contact with the journal... etc. etc. Even the best oils need to be removed before they get dark, it's that carbon that makes it dark. So the best thing to do is to replace your oil every 3000-5000 miles. This gives you another benefit. Modern oils have detergents that keep the sludge from building up inside your engine so when you drain it out to replace it, the sludge precursors drain out with it. These detergents wear out from heat after a few thousand miles so it's best to replace your oil every 3000 miles and you'll never have to "flush" the engine in the first place. NEVER! I've taken engines apart that had a half million miles on them and had good service records at the dealership they bought the car from. They brought it in there every 3000-5000 miles for an oil change, and this is what I found: CLEAN ENGINES with very thin layers of sticky old oil on the non-wearing metal surfaces; and the polished bearing surfaces were still within specs. Save your money on that synthetic oil and spend the savings on more frequent oil changes and you too can have an engine that'll go to the moon and back. Remember, unless you're burning propane which doesn't make carbon, CARBON is the real problem, not "cheap oils". Those "cheap oils" are just as good as synthetic for normal engines, they lubricate just as good as synthetics. Synthetics would be good choice for a propane burner, then you could go 10,000 miles, that is if they're using super detergents that don't break down, detergents they didn't have back in the 1990's. But in a gasoline or diesel engine, it's a total waste of money, and can lead you to do one of the worst things you can do: *_Go 20,000 miles between oil changes with worn out detergents and carbon particles slowly eating up your engine from the inside._*
Thank you for your thorough and masterful response. Those are very good points and imagining how the carbon works away like fine sandpaper on metal components is a good visualization. You provide enough reasons not to go beyond a 5K OCI.
Yeah, it's actually dangerous to simply flush. It's safer to avoid flushing, especially on newer cars. It's can simply abuse some damage inside the engine. The comment said it all, the chemicals that cause that thin layering on the engine act as a sealant for the long haul. Thank you for the comment 👍
Frequent oil changes are likely best but no matter what I do, my oils is instantly black on my Cummins. High compression will push that blow by past the rings into the oil. I added an oil centrifuge which has actually been removing some of that soot from the oil. I will likely flush the engine to see if I can get the rings to seal a little better.
Oil and filters are cheap compared to internal engine part replacement. I don't blame you for doing extra oil changes after the flush. Some might say it's overkill but it sounds like cheap insurance to be safe.
Yes, the cheap oil and filter flush is actually the key to getting all carbonized debris out. Little extra work - but the engine block is nearly factory-clean.
Having torn engines apart i n the past, that's a yes and a no. Pulling the pan and heads on a used engine is always interesting and at least a cup or two of old oil always manages to hide somewhere inside, the condition of which tells you everything about the owner's oil change routine. But it doesn't really matter, since just doing 2 or 3 short-interval oil change (say 100 miles) in a row you will get very close to "clean as possible" and that's close enough. My own engines upon getting torn apart were always clean and had minimum wear on timing chain and gears (the real test) and I flushed them maybe once every year or two. The flushing isn't nearly as important as short oil change intervals.
Fun fact from Europe - car manufacturers here say the oil should be changed every 20k miles - because it is good for the environment. I don't get it how eco it is to see a 3 year old car being scraped because it's 100k mile engine with only 3 oil changes seized LOL
😲 Those are pretty extreme cycles to recommend and they better have the best oil to last that long! I am sure it is possible on brand new vehicles but for older cars, not so much.
@@OwenLucas European oils are considered pretty top of the line. However, if I spend 10,20,50K$ on a vehicle, I'm not going to try to save $50-100/year on an oil change or two at the expense of my engine. 1-2 20K, 3-4 10K oil changes and you are out of warranty and SOL. Try and get your blown engine repaired out of warranty even if you had the dealer do all the servicing.
@kris kein Hersteller behauptet das ein Ölwechsel umweltschonend wäre!! Aber in gewisser Weise doch da eben der Leichtlauf wieder hergestellt wird sowie die hydraulische Abdichtung zwischen Kolben und Zylinder wieder besser wirken kann. Pro Auto also doch ein gewisses Maß an Umweltschutz. Aber die Ursache kommt aus den USA die am meisten voluminöse Hubraum Drecksschleudern fahren ohne die Effizienz ihrer 5-10l Hubraum Maschinen zu steigern!!! 2-3l Hubraum reichen völlig für Otto-Normal-Verbraucher das muß kein Doge Durango oder RAM1500 als Familienkutsche sein außer es sind Familien mit mehr als 2 Kindern !!! In Europa hat man immer nach Effizienz mit Kraft gepaart entwickelt was auch funktioniert nur sind die Kunden dumm gehalten worden und die Firmen haben Kontroller eingestellt denen Zahlen wichtiger sind als funktionierende Autos
It would’ve being good to see what the engine oil looked like after 10 minutes of running it and then drain that well compared to the previous oil change
nothing changed inside the valve cover 308,000 km driven audi a4 b5 which has once had a long life service nad dirty engine. the oil was black and had to be changed a few times, but visually nothing changed
I have done the last 3 oil changes every 5000 kilometers. Now the engine is open because of the valve lifters and the chain tensioner change, and at the same time the oil sump was opened. absolutely terrible condition all places, although I have been using cleaning oils recently (mobile1 5w30 esp) . surprisingly, the oil pump strainer was not blocked.
@@jerryx2000 it consumes a little oil, but here is the original turbo, which is also at the end of the road. It is estimated that 1l/10 000km has been consumed.
Logically, if you want to wipe your hands, do you use "a dirt or a clean" "tissues/wipes" ? The same thing goes to how to clean inside the engine. You have to use pure things to clean in general with a few good steps. Anyhow, I do believe that the best way to "flush/ clean" inside the engine is : 1- Drain an old oil and oil filter. 2- Add new oil & new oil filter. 3- Add engine flush liquid " any good brand " you trust. 4- Turn on the engine for 10 to 15 minutes . During the operation, don't move your car and don't even push the accelerator " gas pedal " at all. 5- Drain the oil and oil filter again. 6- If your car has "high mileage" , repeat the same procedure twice or even thrice, at the same time. 7- When you finish. Add the oil and oil filter. That would be the last step. NOTICE: Use the cheapest oil , while you do flush engine. I Mean cheap oil for engine flush procedures. The last step, use the best oil brand and original oil filter which would be last for a big while inside your engine. Make it the best, no matter how much does it cost. Pay a few hundred dollars, then you'll gain more life for your engine. By the way, some people do prefer add new full synthetic oil and new oil filter many times and do the same steps with no engine flush liquid at all. They consider the additives of full synthetic oil, enough to flush / clean inside the engine itself. I mean , they clean their engines by using good quality oil and oil filter many times at the same time to flush, with no engine flush liquids . They do believe that the engine flush liquids, make rubber and another stuff inside the engine,,, "dry / worn out" somehow. Maybe they are alright 🤷🏻♂️
I would add only one thing. Mineral based oils are better for flushing engine because they contain more dispersants and detergents. Why? Because they break down more and faster and need those additives.
Good job, i did exactly the same on my Passat CC 3.6 V6 because Volkswagen use 5w30 long life oil and I don't like this oil. So I use Motul Engine Flush, after the first oil draining I put cheap 5w40 with a new oil filter, then I drive about 5 kilometers my car to drain a new time 5w40 oil. To finish I use Castrol 5w40 VW 502.00 505.00 oil with Purflux oil filter and my engine doesn't make the same sound as before, it works vert well without any oil consumption. Now I will replace oil and aller filters every year or every 10000 kilometers. Sorry for my English i'm French !
Your English is great! It is interesting to see the different products people use in Europe. Glad to hear your engine is running nice and smooth, may it run many more miles!
what i did is put haf a qt of diesel in the same engine you flushed ran it for 15 min idle and had great results...that was 3 years ago and still running amazing today...also noticed it got quieter over time
Great video. I just did it on a 2011 Volvo S60 T6 with 148k kms. I bought the car used with 113k kms a couple of years ago and after replacing the PCV/Oil catch and seeing some sludge I decided to do the flush. The oil is so clean now that I can barely see it's level on the stick. I'll do it on my '16 CX9 soon too
I used to flush with new oil after each engine flush but I since learned that the oil flush solution is designed to evaporate after you add new oil and drive the car. The specific temperatures of the solution are way lower than the driving temperature of the engine. However, you do need to flush with new oil if this is your first motor flush as the video shows. I actually flushed multiple times until my oil came out looking identical to the newly added oil. Then afterwards, I simply flushed every 3rd oil change and added new oil without the oil flush.
I was thinking to try liqui moly flush on my father's car. Is it safe to use for old car? My father normally change his engine oil on time but is it safe to flush it? Any advice?
I will just use Liqui-Moly before each oil change , no additional change of oil and filter . Oil stays very clear and at 7500 miles when I change it . It comes out as your second oil change . I use Pennzoil Platinum / Ultra Platinum oil and a Amsoil Filter . I will take up to two hours to change oil / filter , letting as much oil drain out as possible .
I used to work in a fleet... not sure if letting oil drain for two hours achieves anything that 20 minutes drain time wouldn't. Of the engines I've torn apart for various reasons, even some that had been sitting for weeks, at least half cup to a cup of old oil always was still inside the engine anyway.
Anyone else lose their mind with the drain plug in the catch pan hahaha. It's completely a trivial point, but I can't be the only who prides themselves on getting that drain plug out without a synthetic oil hand spa treatment lol. Appreciate you taking the time to produce the video, nice overlay with the graphics too.
Ha, I hate when that happens, having to fish out a drain plug in hot oil. I let it fly out for the video though, to show an uninterrupted stream of oil. If you really want some cringe, I changed my oil 6 times in a row, until it turned clear....without catching the drain plug! th-cam.com/video/4Ag7H1bge3g/w-d-xo.html
I use a magnetic tool grabber extended out once I get it loosened to the point of coming out and just use the magnet at a distance to spin it the rest of the way.
I agree with your method. Flush the engine will release gunk which won't come out without an extra oil change. There are some flush products that are meant to used for ~100miles before oil change, since their chemicals are not so harsh on the parts. I think I would trust them more. Engine gaskets are sensitive parts which could lead to very expensive repairs. Never done an engine flush though. I prefer using good oils and shorter change intervals. Great video 👍
I personally do this method every oil change and the oil stays clean for a long while after changes. Get the engine hot, add a quart of diesel, idle for 10 minutes, and finally drain. It gets a whole lot more stuff out and doesn’t cost much. Doing a flush with cheap oil is very wasteful.
I've always changed my oil every 5000km and flush it 3 times instead of two. I know it seems overkill but both my cars run smoothly and have never caused me any issues.
Same I always change mine at 5000km mileage(about 2-3mth) and I'll do a full flush once a year which after the 1st flush I'll do another(2nd) final flush on 500km mileage and the every flush costs me about MYR160 Malaysian ringgit(about USD40). Most people not consider flushing but to have smooth ride I thought it is the best way
@Christopher Tan Yeah twice! Same brand and type. It's kinda sound stupid but rather not to use flush additive because it'll affecting the seals lifespan. I'll do it once a year on year end
@@yeongkarsoon481 But i think the vendor of engine flush has considered about the seal/rubber issue. Now Days in Indonesia, the authorized service use engine flush as the part of periodic service.
Change your oil every 5k and this shouldn't have to be performed unless you really like the car and plan on keeping it for a long time. As a dealership tech I can tell you that MOST do not care this much about their vehicles. If they did I'd never have work.
I own an 05 Civic with oil consumption. Would this be reccomended to do on the engine? I've been told that flushing the engine could cause more oil to be dispursed & that'll create an even bigger problem. I plan on using the Liquid-Moly Anti Friction, but would the flush alone protentially cause more problems? Thanks. V-TEC engine @ 170k btw
@@dbzownz12345 in your case I'd think possible piston ring issues, they may be worn and there were issues around your year range with blocks leaking from the factory and head gaskets blowing. The block leak was a recall so I'd doubt that's an issue and a blown head gasket is pretty noticable so u doubt it's that. So I'd focus on sealing any leaks and then see how it consumes. If it still a serious issue after that I'd recommend piston rings.
@@alleyesopen7776 What's the best product you'd suggest for sealing the leaks? I've ben told to use Rislone (yellow bottle) or their Compression Ring Sealer or Liquid Moly Anti Friction. Also heard Seafoam HM formula could prevent blow by as well, thoughts? Thanks.
I performed this procedure on three consecutive oil/filter changes with a 5k mile interval. The sacrificial oil on the third oil change looked new! This was on a Chevy 5.3 with 255k miles.
If you drain the oil after flush whilst engine is still hot leave it for 5mins the chemicals actually burn off, by design of the product. You can simply flush again with oil to be extra safe but you don’t actually need to!
Good video, using Liqui Moly or Forte engine flush is good stuff. After the flush I always use cheapest oil I can get (even semi of non synthetic will do) , new filter, run for two minutes. Drain. If oil is still dirty, I repeat the procedure. Last oil and filter is high grade. Also I use Forte fuel additive for cleaning fuel system, fuel tank and add seal conditioner. Never had problems. Even with engines that had not run for years - use fogging oil prior first start up!
*No worries, Owen. For the price, Mobil 1 works just fine as a flush oil. Then follow up with gallon of Red Line and smile. Regardless of label claims, factory additive package is always the first casualty. Therefore 5,000 Miles or 6 Months should be the limit until a Blackstone Labs report directs otherwise. Your 4.7M views are well-earned. Cheers!*
I appreciate the oil states could last 20k miles, I would never leave my next oil change that long. I don't flush my engine on my vehicles, I just do regular servicing at intervals given, both vehicles happy at 200k plus.
Thanks for sharing. The 20k oil will be analyzed by Blackstone Labs once it reaches that point to see if there is any life left in it and how it did overall. So well see in a few months!
For my cars, and for other people that they care about their engines in Poland, 10k kilometers is the limit. Compared to The high mileage 20k miles shit
Totally agree - second flush with cheap oil - Warm the engine first (Diesel) - Don't forget to change your oil filter after you drop the fist oil&flush out the engine
@@cristiankanezaki4939Yep you don't want to be running whatever chunks of goodies gets broken up & caught in the oil filter. It'll take a few go throughs to get everything out.
That was an expensive oil change! I do something similar every 4 or 5 changes because I buy 5L of oil each time and save whatever is leftover for the periodic second flush. I use a LiquiMoly flush, then I run the cocktail of leftover oils with a cheap filter for 500 miles before doing the proper change. I also jack the car up at all kinds of angles to get more out of the sump lol. Perhaps OCD, but I enjoy doing it. I've also tried the LiquiMoly Sludge flush which you run in the engine for around 100 miles.
That's a very good approach, you must have a super clean engine! I just got a can of the sludge remover, not easy to get in the US, it came over from the UK, can't wait to try it out!
I also get 5 L canisters and my car takes 4 Litres. I just measure out a litre and when the draining oil is almost all out I just flush the pan out by adding the litre with the drain plug out.
Probably not necessary to try to get every last drop of dirty oil. You can't do it unless you want to take apart the whole engine. I learned this when I took apart my 1988 Nissan pickup, it had 180,000 miles on it and only 100K of those miles were mine. I changed the oil every 3 months like clockwork and here is what I found when I took the engine apart to do in-car overhaul: the timing chain was like new (although the tensioner was chewed up but not all the way gone). The connecting rod bearings were like new, and no ridge at the top of the cylinder (as happens on under-maintained engines). The piston rings were still fine but I changed them anyway (after honing the cylinders). In short the engine had no sludge deposits and little noticeable wear, you'd need a micrometer to measure any. Changing oil too often is the better course of action, to me.
Just purchased a used 2005 car.first flush at 100 miles 2nd flush 500 3rd flush at 1000 miles using marvel mystery oil.now premium oil and filters for a long happy life with no sludge!!!
I do the extra flushing by blowing out the dirty oil using a small leaf blower with moderate power plugged in from the top engine inlet with clean rags. I've noticed it was able to blow away almost half a quart of dirty oil that doesn't drain with gravity alone. The only downside is oil is blowing all throughout the ground.
That is an interesting approach! I guess if you tape a bag around the drain hole it could prevent it from spraying and catch everything for easy disposal.
I’m currently trying to help out my 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 with 306,800 miles (5.3L L33 V8.) Put Seafoam in the oil, ran an extremely high concentration of it for about 20-25 miles in the gas tank as well (26 ounces to about 3 gallons of gas.) Did the intake spray as well. The past two oil changes I’ve done them 2,500 miles apart. I put Seafoam in at 1,200 miles and once I hit 1,500 miles I am going to add Rislone engine treatment and let it idle/low rpm drive through the neighborhood. After, I plan on draining all oil and maybe even pouring a quart or two through it just to get whatever’s loose at the bottom of the oil pan. After watching this video I’m going to buy cheap oil and a filter and let it pick up all the detergents and residual sludge/loose carbon. Hadn’t of done it if I didn’t see this. Thanks!!
Mechanic here 15 plus years. Use the BG brand EPR engine flush no need to do an extra oil change. Safe for enigne and seals. Good idea to flush newer vehicles every other service.
Irv Gordans went 3,000,000 miles with oil changes every 3,000 miles. A good way to know when to change your oil is if you begin not to see your oil level lines on the dip stick through the oil. It’s time to change oil and filter. Over fifty five years using this method and never ever had an engine fail. When I sold the vehicles people commented my engines as being the best seen and heard. I would reply thank you I take care of my vehicles.
@ijaztariq2541 yeah I added 250 ml of nano boron nitride as lubricant and 300 ml of molybdenum (Liquid Moly) - so I had an extra 1/2 quart out of 7 quarts total. Normally this is supposed to be fine for my oil pan since it has a front pickup tube and that extra oil prevents lack of oil during quick acceleration throwing the oil to the back of the pan. But the Liquid Moly or molybdenum had this magnetic induction effect where it got sucked into the spark plug wells past the piston rings - since the Liquid Moly is nano size. So in other words I was supposed to drive the engine for 10 minutes to work in the boron nitride - and the engine sounded terrible. The next day I was idling at the auto parts store contemplating what to do and the "service engine soon" light kicked on and then the engine stalled out! So I drove to the oil change quick lube where I had just had the new synthetic oil put in the night before. They insisted that I just take out the extra 1/2 quart of oil by changing out the filter since they didn't want to replace that fresh 7 quarts of oil. So I played along with that and drove off - no charge - new filter - and the Service light came on again - flashing. So I got another oil change at a different quick lube place - and the service light still came on. By this time I had checked the code and I got misfire in cylinder six. So I then cleaned out that spark plug well - and it was all black from the molybdenum!! I still had a general misfire after I replaced the spark plug. So then I cleaned out ALL the spark plug wells and replaced all the spark plugs. STILL had a general misfire - only now it was Flashing. So then I realized I had damaged my catalytic converter - since I also did another engine flush and then I tried to clean out the catalytic converter with lacquer thinner. Since that didn't work then I got a $200 new cat and got it welded in by the muffler shop for $200. STILL got the cylinder six misfire flash and it went away. Engine still sounded terrible and like it had valve damage or maybe rod damage. So I tried adding some MORE boron nitride and then I got the misfire code again - this time solid and not flashing. So I drove to this one mechanic and he said that the new catalytic converter is working fine but the cylinder six misfire is intermittent - so it's NOT a valve or rod knock! This was a huge relief to me. He said maybe I needed to replace the ignition coil. In fact I had just put in all new ignition coils - but he said maybe that one was bad. So I ordered 1 nice Delphi OEM ignition coil. It took too long to get it so I switched out the cylinder six ignition coil - with cylinder two. Misfire was still there. So I bought a 2nd new ignition coil locally and misfire was still there. Finally I removed the cylinder six spark plug - it's behind the firewall so you can't see it. The porcelain on the plug was cracked - and I was not sure if I cracked it when taking it out. That particular plug for my engine is too long to use the spark plug socket. So when I put in the NEW spark plug again I did not torque it to spec since that seemed to be putting to much torque at the wrong angle - since that cylinder is hard to get at. Sure enough NOW finally the misfire was gone and the engine works - apparently fine now. In fact the lifter ticking noise seems to be better for sure than before - so all that engine flushing and snake oil seemed to clean out the engine after all. Still I do have another 250 ml of boron nitride - and I could add a bit to it - but I have learned my snake oil lesson for now. haha.
I absolutely agree. I do exactly the same thing. I find that just draining it and filling up with new oil straight away doesnt change anything It still looks just as dirty on the dipstick as the old worn out oil. all the contaminants stay on the bottom of the pan, on the engine parts on the block and then it just contaminates the new oil straight away.
I've done a similar test, except I take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the Moly and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you get to compare the flushing oil with the Moly flush. They are often the same, you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really gunked up engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the Moly. Too many people put in Moly and say "Wow look how dirty the oil is, this Moly really works." The oil is only flushing out residual dirty oil and sediments, the Moly is cleaning varnish. Kind of important to know which is happening. When the flush oil alone is the same as the Moly oil, you'll know your cars engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents.
As a mechanic we don’t do this to customer vehicles but to my own personal vehicles especially diesels I do this step clean oil lubricates better cleans the engine better and I’ve never had tapping noises or anything similar but I don’t use expensive oil when doing the second flush i use the midrange stuff or cheap stuff depending on the age of the vehicle and what type of vehicle it is
Great point, do you find diesel engine oil is much dirtier? I also suspect vehicles driven in dusty environments like the southwest or middle east might have more oil contamination due to exposure to the elements over time, what's your opinion on this? Thanks for watching!
@@OwenLucas Diesel engine oil is normally a rich black colour doing the two flush method don’t have a impact on the colour and all I can say on other vehicles in other countries is that every manufacturer supplies information best suited too there climate on oils too use and service intervals always follow manufactures advise is the best thing I can say
Mobil1 also has strong detergents in it as well. It's a high quality oil. I have spoken to people who work in Mobil oil products and they said the closest competitor in qualify is the Penzoil Ultra Platinum. They also said each brand actually picks different oil characteristics to be the best in. They didn't dive into specifics but said some brands might clean better, while others might fight heat better, and so. They said the Mobil approach was to be the best overall and balanced in each category.
Walmart Super Tech has all the same fancy numbers and letters as the big boy companies. It’s API approved and has the seal to prove it. You like pretty bottles and logos and the higher price impressions you and makes you sleep better at night then buy it. Change your oil yourself every five thousand miles for about $30.00. Walmart full synthetic oil five quart jug about $21.00 and a K&N Mobil One or any quality filter total runs about $30.00. Do it yourself.
It sounds really weird but I actually use royal purple after chem flush due to how many specialized conditioners and aggressive detergents it has. Run it a hundred miles or so and then start your cheaper flushes, or just stick with the purple if that floats your boat, I'm an amsoil guy myself. It's more expensive, but it's the way to go.
@Highlights Unleashed I never use true aluminum LS's buy only iron block lm7s and sbc and LA chrysler and Magnums. I have NEVER seen white sediment from royal purple and I have no problems talking trah on royal bc I an AMSOIL guy. The shit works fine and actually concerned why you're getting white chalk in your builds
i never had to flush the engine as i used to change the oil every 5000km even if the oil can be used for more mileage however im now using diesel engine oil which have more solvents.. the results are unbelievable at replacing the valve cover gasket the valve cover and cams were so clean
When I replaced the valve cover on my 2001 BMW at 170k Miles everything was sparkly clean in there. No oil residue build up whatsoever. I think modern engines, if oil is changed regularly, don't have as much gunk in there as people think. I replaced oil every ~8k miles
Nice explanation. I have a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 with 100k miles and I was planning to treat it with the engine flush, for the first time. However, I've seen other videos in which they suggest avoiding the use of these additives because, according to them, they can mess the seals and carry aggregates to places where they should not be. However, I see you used it on a similarly aged engine ...
I have not experienced any problems so far, runs just fine. Liqui Moly's website states: "Neutral to seals and other materials installed in the engine".
I agree also if you didnt build the engine i wouldnt recomend flushing it unless it is pivital to fixing a existing problem. I found after flushing a engine that where prior mechanics had used black rtv silicon that the silicon became soft elastic mushy and started leaking oil permanently where there was a good seal before the flush. I recomend not doing it unless you know all the engine parts will be able to handle it..
Unless you have a problem, just throw in seafoam, marvel mystery oil, or another such product a few hundred miles before the change. Its not as aggressive and people have done it for half a century with no problems
After used liqui moli, run engine at idle speed for 10 minutes, then drain engine oil and change oil filter.Next fill new engine oil and new oil filter. Have we done this step for 2 times or, what if we don't change oil and filter again, i mean just done 1 times for changing oil and filter?..will be we get the problem?..you know 2 times for change oil and filter plus 1 bottle of liqui moly, expensive enough?
1 bottle of Liqui Moly and 1 extra oil and filter change is enough unless you have a lot of gunking. You can do 2 flushes in a row if you want and then 1 oil / filter change after.
If you are doing oil changes every 20k miles, I am not surprised it comes out so dirty. Its better to change the oil every 3k to 5k instead of 20k and not have to worry about flushing the sludge and varnish out.
Thank you, very interesting video :) I consider doing this for my Honda's "10 year" oil change, 10 years with only basic oil change and 135 000 kilometers, a good flush won't hurt :)
@@OwenLucas Thank you :) I wanted to simply use an additive, but you convinced me than I should also do a flush after that, to remove the remaining additive, and the remaining super-dirty oil inside, the color of your flushing oil was eye-opening about how much residue stays in the engine after just a basic oil change.
Funny, I was thinking about flushing my ML55 and whether I should flush it again with regular oil. And just like that this video was in my recommended section. I guess I will do a second flush with regular oil after seeing the discoloration of the oil coming out after the second flush. Get it out! Thanks for the video!
You are correct about flushing the engine with clean oil. 10-20% of old oil and solvents will remain after a regular oil change. Some think all those chemicals will just evaporate, but they are wrong. If you want to see if the flush helps, you need to do two clean oil flushes first to get a 99.9% clean sump, sample the oil using a lab. Then add the flush detergent/solvents, run the engine as directed. Sample the oil again for particle count test. The second drain in your vehicle the mixing of old oil with new, and not the result of the flush. Flushing with clean oil works far better.
If you flush for the first time in a high mileage engine= add the flush in the old oil, empty, put new cheap oil + another flush, empty... And put new good oil, you are done.
The final oil fill was with Mobile 1 Extended Performance High Mileage Synthetic. Designed to last 20k miles or 1 year. If I notice any issues I'll change the engine oil early but I think it will be fine. I'm going to complete an oil analysis once the 20k is completed so stay tuned!
@@OwenLucas why not do an analysis at 10k and then again at 20k? If the oil isn't doing its job well, then you'll know sooner before doing more damage than just letting things go.
Liquimoly makes a dam good product used one of their products on a corvette with a nasty lifter tick, made it run smooth as silk and never ticked again
It is definitely worth it to do a "rinse" after the flush to get more of the sludge and carbon out, which is the purpose of the flush. As an aside, I'd use a funnel. Your hands are much steadier than mine :)
I change my oil every 3000kms since i did my rebuild. Barra 4L bored out to 4.1L and built for 1500kw. I NEVER USE ENGINE FLUSH. No carbon build up after 100,000kms... I run the correct temperature oil. For me its 10w50. If you run an oil thats not designed for the heat and runs too thin it WILL burn and go black. Inside of my motor still looks new. And if you want to decarbonise your motor... change the oil more regular and use a few cans of throttle body cleaner at idle through your intake (brief sprays so the motor doesn't stall). That will release carbon in your valve paths and clean up the pistons and clean your intake... Then drain your oil... Engine flush is bad on crank and rod bearings and ruins valve seals and main seals and eats away at silicon seals (oilpan seal etc)
You missed one very important step just at the beginning: before pouring the LM, make sure, that after adding it to the oil, the oil level on the dipstick is still in norm level! It was written on my LM bottle/can... So if You have your oil level topped to max norm level, better suck some out before adding LM. That step wasn't mentioned in this material, but interestingly LM doesn't say anything on after the flushing another flush with the fresh oil before pouring the good oil. Maybe market dependable?!
I flushed my 2017 Hyundai sonata with over 130k miles. Flushed it twice with a new oil filter each time then added the right amount of oil. My car runs fine and no problems at all. I do change my oil regular every 4k miles. No big change at all but just wanted to test it out and see if I can tell the difference.
Guess I am not delaying my engine oil change and engine oil flush anymore. Currently, I have an engine oil additive helping prevent serious issues for a few more weeks. It keeps the engine extremely cool. So in coming weeks, I need to definitely buy: 1. 2 oil filters 2. 4 liters of 5W-40 3. 4 liters of 10W-40 4. 250mL Engine oil additive 5. Liqui moly It is crazy how dirty the engine oil is even if it is brand new suggesting I definitely need to flush off the dirt soon.
Top tip. You don't have to use engine oil flush if you change your oil regularly. 5k miles for regular oil and 10k miles on synthetic oil. Change your oil people.
My oil was changed regularly for the past 15 years, at some point gunk and sludge will form from heavy use. It wasn't too bad on my car but imagine a taxi idling all day or a work truck towing heavy loads day in day out.
@@barrypowell829 I usually go a little over 3K with regular oil or synthetic blend. 10K between oil changes seems to be temping fate. I assumed there is some small print that says "Up to" right before the 10K recommendation with synthetic oil. I probably change mine too early, a habit I picked up from my Dad. His theory was he never saw an engine fail because the oil was too clean.
Got a 2006 Corolla and have 260k miles on it. Never had a problem aside from a worn out clutch had to replace it on 190k. Modern oils have detergents that will clean your engine. Please stop using engine flush, you will scar the bearings and crankshaft. By the way I forgot to say it's 5k and 10k highway miles. If you live on NYC or LA with traffic you should change your oil early. Try to check the dipstick every week to see if it's already black. Drive safe everyone.
Can't argue with that. I watch a lot of these videos and read a lot about car maintenance. There's a lot of things i wanted to try including engine flushes just to make myself think i was doing something amazing to keep my car tiptop. After consuming so much information, i came to realise no, it's actually just that simple. The best quality oil does all the work for you. You just got to keep it there fresh and clean every 12000km in my case. Anything beyond is just trying to do something to tell yourself damn I'm so good at maintaining my car, look at all this these things I'm doing
You never ever wanna flush a modern engine buddy. Once you knock loose all the dirt with the flush then all that crap gets into all the little screen filters that feed the vetc etc and can clog up the tiny holes that pressurize those systems to work. Rather do regular oil changes at shorter intervals than specified by the manufacturer and you'll never have to worry.
@@reiannaidoo a service guy flushed my civic 9th without taking my proper permission. I did not wajt to to. What should I do? Should I get it checked for small pores clogging at any shop or just keep driving?
@@MajidUrRehman just keep driving. Don't worry about it to much. If there is a problem the car will let you know. The check engine light will come on or you might start having performance and other issues. Still i think there is a good chance that you will be just fine.
Wow! Finally someone uses his brain lol! I always said this is the best way but ppl always say it's ofc a bit more expensive. Few ppl really LOVE their car or cars in general. Perfect mate!
I would never extend oil change to 20k miles because it means problems. Many cars in Europe that have extended intervals (30000km) experience problems with bearings or timings chains. 10k is long enough and doesn't hinder engine life.
With high mileage like this one some said not to flush because it will cause engine leak. It removes all the gunks that otherwise seal from oil leaking. Is this true ?
I've heard of this theory but I don't really believe it because I don't see how it is possible for some soft gunk to withstand 7+ psi of oil pressure and block any leakages. My engine has 180k miles on it and does not leak at all after the engine flush. I actually flushed it again and have a new video coming out soon. Still no leaks.
@@OwenLucas I had been told the same thing about not flushing in case the deposit removal would open up leaks. I would like to do a flush like this though, because I think my engine needs it. There were 156k miles on it before I bought it, all with Volvo dealerships (it's a 2015 D4 Diesel XC60). I also note that there are other additives that can help to seal up minor leaks should they show up anyway ... have you ever used one of these??
I do that to my 997 turbo put the flush into the hot engine then 20 min , drain the oil , I put new oil for half hour the drain it again. Then I change the filter with the new oil
Excellent view point. While adding the flush. Should i need to remove existing oil by the volume of flush we are adding. My engine oil is 3.8L capacity. Planning to use Liqui moli flush
I just did a flush using a comparable product, BG EPR, but instead of putting sacrificial oil and running it briefly to flush out the flush, I dropped and cleaned the pan and let whatever residual oil was left drip into a drip pan, which I was going to do anyway as it hasn't been done on this car in ages. I even let the engine run for a couple of seconds when it was "dry", to get the remaining few ounces of oil out. So I think I accomplished much the same thing. Of course this isn't something you do every oil change, but it needed to be done in this situation.
Agreed.. after the 1st Liquimoly Engine Flush poured into the old oil.. run for 10 mins. Poured them out. Fill another cheaper fresh oil eitj engine flush again, run for another 10 mins. Pour out the oil. I did another fresh oil run for my brother car.. since the car has 175.000 km for its 1st enginr flush.. the next oil has longer bright color.. and sounds smoother too..
I've always thought of this and seeing someone else do it convinces me that I'm not being overly careful haha. My second thought is would it be safe to buy the cheapest filter for the first oil flush? Because i like to use genuine filters but I'd hate to waste one just for the first oil flush.
@@FroztiProductions not to mention that you are just letting the engine idle. I won't use a Purolator filter. They pack so much filter material that yes oil comes out of it cleaner... I have also seen an oil pressure DROP of over 10 pounds with one. I'll change my oil when I'm supposed to, to keep it clean and use a Good Fram filter and keep my oil pressure too. I drive a lot at higher rpms and oil pressure is your best friend(and Good brakes!)! Ya'll Take care and be safe, John
Of course, for that purpose I can't think of any reason NOT to use el cheapo oil filter when its running 20 minutes and getting changed. I'd even buy a fram for that lol (they're the worst)
Did exactly this method yesterday for my 180 000 miles car. After started my car i begin to hear strange sounds, like pf, then for a several seconds it works normally and again pf, and the same thing like every 15 secs. After i drived 15-20 mins that bad sounds gone. What that was exactly? Im also changed spark plugs after flushing engine. I runned diagnostic for my car and there was zero faults. Today i tried accelerate many timesnand my car accelerates slower then before.
I’m sure the guys at molly have thought about there product staying in the oil , oil is a cleaner as well as a lubricant, and even a cooler of some sort , what is left in there shouldn’t be worried about , it will come out with the next oil change , or , through a breather
This is only if you do extended oil change intervals like 10k plus. If you change your oil every 5k miles, you never need to worry about any engine flushes.
It’s definitely not a regular maintenance thing, but if you buy a high mileage car without explicit service records, this is a tempting peace of mind treatment before starting my own regular OCI schedule.
That’s a good practice but not necessary unless the engine oil changes been neglected. On regular oil changes you can use flush and then replace the oil and filter and you are good to go 👍
Used to do this with transmission fluid , drain out a qt. Of oil add transmission fluid run to operating temp let cool down repeat , always worked good for me , old timers method.
Frequent oil changes should be all you need. Just use good quality oil and filters and dont go over 5K (synthetic) or 3K (non synthetic) and with modern oils with their detergent packages, you should be good to go.
Everything you did was right, you are close to perfection but you should remove the crankcase or sump at the bottom after draining the old oil with liquid moli , to assist the secondary cleansing with the cheaper oil before you go for the final oil
Back in the 50s, people would drain the oil and add gallon of kerosene (was cheap then), run the engine for one minute, then drain and leave the plug out for l can’t remember how long to make sure it’s all gone . Then put the new oil in. I saw my dad and the man who ran the gas station do this.
Engine flushes were especially important back in the day when oil filters weren't standard and oil technology was basically crude dinosaur stock. Thank you for watching!
I hope I followed correct procedure by leaving the old filter on when doing the 2nd round with (indeed) cheaper motor oil. After that, I replaced that old filter and added the new (quality) oil.
There are some other methods to prevent blow by gases from entering the combustion chamber like adding a catch can and cleaning intake valves. It would be more logical to prevent gunk entering the engine and then clean the engine with engine flush.
On my 2002 V6 Camry, I installed a generic universal clear plastic fuel filter, into the PCV line that goes from the valve cover into the throttle body/air intake system. The amount of oil it catches is tiny but it adds up, maybe half a teaspoon of oil inside that clear filter per year of operating the car.
Be careful using these chemicals It could knock off sludge and if it’s a chunk it could get caught in a very small clearances of the engine. Instead use something like Castrol GTX ultra clean oil. It’s not a harsh cleaning. Change the oil every two thousand miles a couple of times. That way it’s slower but safer. Just my opinion.
Have you seen hot shots secret stiction oil treatment? What that does is turns the sludge and chunks of carbon back into a liquid for the car to easily expose of them. I'm waiting for some to arrive to try out as many people are talking about there products
Drain old oil first and then fill new budget oil with liquimoly for more flushing power.... Then fill as usual..... My old 2003 E320 wagon loves it...172K miles
Agree, unless the condition of the car is unknown. I picked up a 2006 BMW 523i with only 68,000 miles on it last December. I did an oil change and realized when seeing the oil coming out that it needed to be flushed as the oil change intervals were clearly too long. I did this twice and now I'm confident normal oil changes is all that will be required from now on.
@@readmycomment4696 You will eventually have some breakdown / sludge in oil over the years and thousands of miles of driving, especially if its in a hot climate or under heavy use. This was my cars 1st oil flush and I might just do one just for fun after this 20k life oil is finished.
If you do an oil flush and you get much more gunk out with your fluid drain, then the proof is in the pudding that the oil flush created a benefit worth doing. Some cars are better candidates than others. Some cars burn a lot of oil and may leave behind more residue, while other cars may not have been well maintained by the previous owner.
0:53 I would expect all the alkanes and cyclics as solvents, and the phosphoric makes tons of sense for rust inhibition alone, but calcium solts and especially the polymers are surprising. Zinc salts + phosphoric also seems like it could be there to do some chemical galvanization. However, I can't think of any component of an engine that would be PMMA/Acrylic. Yet Liqui Moly has the monomer in the cocktail? Olefin and Siloxane make sense for repairing PC/HDPE and rubber.
What I would do is to drain the old oil (without Liqui Moly Pro Line Engine Flush ®️) then fill it in with a cheap oil but still has the right grade and a cheap oil filter, run it idle for 15-20 minutes then add the Liqui Moly Pro Line Engine Flush Pro Line®️ then drain. I wonder how the color of the new oil would look like
I own an 05 Civic with oil consumption. Would this be reccomended to do on the engine? I've been told that flushing the engine could cause more oil to be dispursed & that'll create an even bigger problem. I plan on using the Liquid-Moly Anti Friction, but would the flush alone protentially cause more problems? Thanks.
@@dbzownz12345 bro I flushed my 359,000 mile CRV and added Ceratec and it literally transformed the car and made it run 10 times smoother. Don’t listen to all these dorks- just do the flush and add Ceratec or MoS2 and enjoy the great results
@@mcdoob What if the engine's burning oil? Just changed my PCV valve with recent oil change. Seems to have helped a bit, but burning oil can't be stopped unless I tear down the engine. Thought? Thanks.
I get the engine hot and put in a quart of diesel then let it idle for 10 minutes. It gets way more stuff out than a normal drain and doesn’t cost anything.
Try the same thing without the Moly and you'll see similar results and you won't have to worry about a cleaning agent diluting your oil. Run the fresh oil, pull a sample out, then ad the Moly and you'll see it's about the same when you drain the Moly. Unless the car is really gunked up, mostly the flush agent is a waste. The only real question is do you want to remove all the residual dirty oil with cheap oil before you add the good stuff? Another option is do a 1000 mile slow flush with Marvels or a RX auto type product. This way you are not damaging seals nor expecting all the cleaning to be done in 15 minutes. Then after 1000 miles you can change to the expensive oil and filter. These thining agents give us this quick fix, but do you really think thining your oil is a good thing or that solvents and oil seals go well together? Why not just use kerosene, diesel or La's Awesome Degreaser if you want exciting results that might damage your engine? What manufacturers manul recommends flushing your engine with thinning agents?
Those are good points. I think LM recognizes the thinning action of their flush which is why the instructions only ask to idle the engine for 10-15 minutes. They state not to drive the vehicle or rev the engine. I believe this is because, like you say, the oil is thinned and any load beyond idle would damage the bearings.
I’ve heard that too but I’d be careful, who knows what it does to seals over a few days. Some people have used diesel fuel successfully, only for 20 minutes though, idling only. I’d rather do that than ATF.
Idk if I would ever want to go 20k miles on an oil change even if it said it was good that long. I use synthetic and change every 5k miles and my engines are like new inside. LiquiMoly is a great product I use their ceratec once in awhile and I try to use the mOs2 treatment at every OCI.
I drove new Ford Transit van at work (European version). Factory oil change interval is 25 000 miles. Van is 1 year old and still haven't had his first oil change. It's been used almost everyday on highway. On top of that it had stu*id start and stop system. This van will have new engine and turbo in it in just few years, just in time when varranty on it expires😉
The small details like the white paper in the drain pan and the condition of the car being serviced is what makes this video excellent.
Thank you for the compliment!
Whats the paper do
@@DanielPMurilloContrast for the color of the oil.
@@DanielPMurillo prevents splash
Can we take a second and admire this guy’s pouring aim?
I was thinking that too, good on you for starting a thread about it. What a pour. I mean, wow.
I'm a retired ASE Master Technician that was trained at the GM Training College in Atlanta by the experts from GM, engineers who designed cars for a living, and this is some of what I learned about oils there.
NO oil is "good for" 20,000 miles unless it's in an engine running on propane and here's why. *_There are no filters out there good enough to filter out the carbon!_* Internal combustion engines that burn gasoline or diesel make microscopic clumps of carbon atoms that stick to the oil on the cylinder walls and get into the oil. They're like *FINE SANDPAPER* and they polish the metal parts, and polish them, and polish them...
Until the clearances get big enough to cause something to break, either a lifter that can't hold pressure because it bleeds off too much oil too fast or a rod bearing that bleeds off to much oil from the journal so the inserts make contact with the journal... etc. etc.
Even the best oils need to be removed before they get dark, it's that carbon that makes it dark. So the best thing to do is to replace your oil every 3000-5000 miles. This gives you another benefit. Modern oils have detergents that keep the sludge from building up inside your engine so when you drain it out to replace it, the sludge precursors drain out with it. These detergents wear out from heat after a few thousand miles so it's best to replace your oil every 3000 miles and you'll never have to "flush" the engine in the first place. NEVER!
I've taken engines apart that had a half million miles on them and had good service records at the dealership they bought the car from. They brought it in there every 3000-5000 miles for an oil change, and this is what I found: CLEAN ENGINES with very thin layers of sticky old oil on the non-wearing metal surfaces; and the polished bearing surfaces were still within specs.
Save your money on that synthetic oil and spend the savings on more frequent oil changes and you too can have an engine that'll go to the moon and back. Remember, unless you're burning propane which doesn't make carbon, CARBON is the real problem, not "cheap oils".
Those "cheap oils" are just as good as synthetic for normal engines, they lubricate just as good as synthetics. Synthetics would be good choice for a propane burner, then you could go 10,000 miles, that is if they're using super detergents that don't break down, detergents they didn't have back in the 1990's. But in a gasoline or diesel engine, it's a total waste of money, and can lead you to do one of the worst things you can do: *_Go 20,000 miles between oil changes with worn out detergents and carbon particles slowly eating up your engine from the inside._*
Thank you for your thorough and masterful response. Those are very good points and imagining how the carbon works away like fine sandpaper on metal components is a good visualization. You provide enough reasons not to go beyond a 5K OCI.
Can't argue with facts from an expert with a life time of experience. Thankyou and enjoy your retirement
Yeah, it's actually dangerous to simply flush. It's safer to avoid flushing, especially on newer cars. It's can simply abuse some damage inside the engine.
The comment said it all, the chemicals that cause that thin layering on the engine act as a sealant for the long haul.
Thank you for the comment 👍
Thank you for sharing your experience
Frequent oil changes are likely best but no matter what I do, my oils is instantly black on my Cummins. High compression will push that blow by past the rings into the oil. I added an oil centrifuge which has actually been removing some of that soot from the oil. I will likely flush the engine to see if I can get the rings to seal a little better.
Oil and filters are cheap compared to internal engine part replacement. I don't blame you for doing extra oil changes after the flush. Some might say it's overkill but it sounds like cheap insurance to be safe.
extra oil changes?...why?...if you are uncertain, one change is sufficient
after 1st engine flush i'll do a 2nd extra oil change after 500km mileage after the 1st flush. I change engine oil every 5,000km mileage FYI.
Yeah. My mechanic says I need a new head. 12-1500 bucks. Bought it this way. Don't judge me.
@@johnedward71 bump
Excellent comment thanks
As a mechanic, I see MANY cars that could use a method like this. Good work.
Thank you sir!
Yes, the cheap oil and filter flush is actually the key to getting all carbonized debris out. Little extra work - but the engine block is nearly factory-clean.
When would be the next time to do such a flush once cheap oil and filter flush is done ?
@@hamzakhalid95 If you keep up on ur oil changes 5k miles maximum, shouldn't be for awhile.
Having torn engines apart i n the past, that's a yes and a no. Pulling the pan and heads on a used engine is always interesting and at least a cup or two of old oil always manages to hide somewhere inside, the condition of which tells you everything about the owner's oil change routine. But it doesn't really matter, since just doing 2 or 3 short-interval oil change (say 100 miles) in a row you will get very close to "clean as possible" and that's close enough. My own engines upon getting torn apart were always clean and had minimum wear on timing chain and gears (the real test) and I flushed them maybe once every year or two. The flushing isn't nearly as important as short oil change intervals.
@@robertmaybeth3434 that’s good information to know thank you very much
@@robertmaybeth3434 so what was your method, routine system?
Did my 09 pilot with this same process this weekend. Engine is noticeably more responsive. 150k miles. I believe Liqui Moly is a good quality product.
Fun fact from Europe - car manufacturers here say the oil should be changed every 20k miles - because it is good for the environment. I don't get it how eco it is to see a 3 year old car being scraped because it's 100k mile engine with only 3 oil changes seized LOL
😲 Those are pretty extreme cycles to recommend and they better have the best oil to last that long! I am sure it is possible on brand new vehicles but for older cars, not so much.
@@OwenLucas European oils are considered pretty top of the line. However, if I spend 10,20,50K$ on a vehicle, I'm not going to try to save $50-100/year on an oil change or two at the expense of my engine.
1-2 20K, 3-4 10K oil changes and you are out of warranty and SOL. Try and get your blown engine repaired out of warranty even if you had the dealer do all the servicing.
Car manufacturers lie...... All of them...... A rule of thumb being whenever you see their lips move, they're spoutin'.........
It’s called business
@kris kein Hersteller behauptet das ein Ölwechsel umweltschonend wäre!! Aber in gewisser Weise doch da eben der Leichtlauf wieder hergestellt wird sowie die hydraulische Abdichtung zwischen Kolben und Zylinder wieder besser wirken kann. Pro Auto also doch ein gewisses Maß an Umweltschutz.
Aber die Ursache kommt aus den USA die am meisten voluminöse Hubraum Drecksschleudern fahren ohne die Effizienz ihrer 5-10l Hubraum Maschinen zu steigern!!!
2-3l Hubraum reichen völlig für Otto-Normal-Verbraucher das muß kein Doge Durango oder RAM1500 als Familienkutsche sein außer es sind Familien mit mehr als 2 Kindern !!!
In Europa hat man immer nach Effizienz mit Kraft gepaart entwickelt was auch funktioniert nur sind die Kunden dumm gehalten worden und die Firmen haben Kontroller eingestellt denen Zahlen wichtiger sind als funktionierende Autos
I have to give you props for pouring the flush chemical and oil without a funnel and making ZERO mess!
You have very steady hands, not a drop spilled on the valve cover. Great job, you should have been a surgeon.
Thanks! 👍
He is... a car surgeon.
I was thinking the same. I spill everywhere and always a big gust of wind comes out of nowhere as soon as I begin pouring.
It would’ve being good to see what the engine oil looked like after 10 minutes of running it and then drain that well compared to the previous oil change
I was thinking the same thing
nothing changed inside the valve cover 308,000 km driven audi a4 b5 which has once had a long life service nad dirty engine. the oil was black and had to be changed a few times, but visually nothing changed
I have done the last 3 oil changes every 5000 kilometers. Now the engine is open because of the valve lifters and the chain tensioner change, and at the same time the oil sump was opened. absolutely terrible condition all places, although I have been using cleaning oils recently (mobile1 5w30 esp) . surprisingly, the oil pump strainer was not blocked.
@@jerryx2000 it consumes a little oil, but here is the original turbo, which is also at the end of the road. It is estimated that 1l/10 000km has been consumed.
@@TheMadeBlade yes i like
Thank you for being straight to the point with proof as backup. A+++ amazing.
Logically, if you want to wipe your hands, do you use "a dirt or a clean" "tissues/wipes" ?
The same thing goes to how to clean inside the engine. You have to use pure things to clean in general with a few good steps.
Anyhow, I do believe that the best way to "flush/ clean" inside the engine is :
1- Drain an old oil and oil filter.
2- Add new oil & new oil filter.
3- Add engine flush liquid " any good brand " you trust.
4- Turn on the engine for 10 to 15 minutes . During the operation, don't move your car and don't even push the accelerator " gas pedal " at all.
5- Drain the oil and oil filter again.
6- If your car has "high mileage" , repeat the same procedure twice or even thrice, at the same time.
7- When you finish. Add the oil and oil filter. That would be the last step.
NOTICE:
Use the cheapest oil , while you do flush engine. I Mean cheap oil for engine flush procedures. The last step, use the best oil brand and original oil filter which would be last for a big while inside your engine. Make it the best, no matter how much does it cost.
Pay a few hundred dollars, then you'll gain more life for your engine.
By the way, some people do prefer add new full synthetic oil and new oil filter many times and do the same steps with no engine flush liquid at all. They consider the additives of full synthetic oil, enough to flush / clean inside the engine itself.
I mean , they clean their engines by using good quality oil and oil filter many times at the same time to flush, with no engine flush liquids
. They do believe that the engine flush liquids, make rubber and another stuff inside the engine,,, "dry / worn out" somehow.
Maybe they are alright 🤷🏻♂️
can I just use the same oil filter to drain it twice?
I have the car ramps I use, I have to accelerate to get the car on the ramps for the oil change. What happens if I move the car onto the ramps ?
@@MrYniguez2 you are gunning the engine. Load. Not great. Put on ramps first!
I would add only one thing. Mineral based oils are better for flushing engine because they contain more dispersants and detergents.
Why? Because they break down more and faster and need those additives.
This is the best way. I trust
Good job, i did exactly the same on my Passat CC 3.6 V6 because Volkswagen use 5w30 long life oil and I don't like this oil.
So I use Motul Engine Flush, after the first oil draining I put cheap 5w40 with a new oil filter, then I drive about 5 kilometers my car to drain a new time 5w40 oil.
To finish I use Castrol 5w40 VW 502.00 505.00 oil with Purflux oil filter and my engine doesn't make the same sound as before, it works vert well without any oil consumption.
Now I will replace oil and aller filters every year or every 10000 kilometers.
Sorry for my English i'm French !
Your English is great! It is interesting to see the different products people use in Europe. Glad to hear your engine is running nice and smooth, may it run many more miles!
what i did is put haf a qt of diesel in the same engine you flushed ran it for 15 min idle and had great results...that was 3 years ago and still running amazing today...also noticed it got quieter over time
Great video. I just did it on a 2011 Volvo S60 T6 with 148k kms. I bought the car used with 113k kms a couple of years ago and after replacing the PCV/Oil catch and seeing some sludge I decided to do the flush. The oil is so clean now that I can barely see it's level on the stick. I'll do it on my '16 CX9 soon too
Does it perform way better?
So during this flushing, which oil filter is in the car? The used one or new one. Thanks
Do you have any manual videos how to do ?? I have same car ... dealer is asking $1500 to tune up
@@babagandu The video just showed you lol.
How many oil filters did you use in the oil change process?
This is the most accurate video about flushing engine oil on TH-cam.
I used to flush with new oil after each engine flush but I since learned that the oil flush solution is designed to evaporate after you add new oil and drive the car. The specific temperatures of the solution are way lower than the driving temperature of the engine. However, you do need to flush with new oil if this is your first motor flush as the video shows. I actually flushed multiple times until my oil came out looking identical to the newly added oil. Then afterwards, I simply flushed every 3rd oil change and added new oil without the oil flush.
Best way.
@Boris yes. Smoother engine and quieter. Tiny bit better throttle response. Highy recommended. Ignore the naysayers.
I was thinking to try liqui moly flush on my father's car. Is it safe to use for old car? My father normally change his engine oil on time but is it safe to flush it? Any advice?
@@laraangelic3503 i just flushed a 1988 BMW 528e and it’s fine. Every car is different though so no idea what the history of your dad’s car is.
@@laraangelic3503 if it’s more than 30 years old I’d be careful
I will just use Liqui-Moly before each oil change , no additional change of oil and filter . Oil stays very clear and at 7500 miles when I change it . It comes out as your second oil change . I use Pennzoil Platinum / Ultra Platinum oil and a Amsoil Filter . I will take up to two hours to change oil / filter , letting as much oil drain out as possible .
I used to work in a fleet... not sure if letting oil drain for two hours achieves anything that 20 minutes drain time wouldn't. Of the engines I've torn apart for various reasons, even some that had been sitting for weeks, at least half cup to a cup of old oil always was still inside the engine anyway.
Maybe do it every 2 service instead of every single one
@@RajeshSingh-rt4rx Yes
Anyone else lose their mind with the drain plug in the catch pan hahaha. It's completely a trivial point, but I can't be the only who prides themselves on getting that drain plug out without a synthetic oil hand spa treatment lol. Appreciate you taking the time to produce the video, nice overlay with the graphics too.
Ha, I hate when that happens, having to fish out a drain plug in hot oil. I let it fly out for the video though, to show an uninterrupted stream of oil. If you really want some cringe, I changed my oil 6 times in a row, until it turned clear....without catching the drain plug! th-cam.com/video/4Ag7H1bge3g/w-d-xo.html
@@OwenLucas 🤣🤣🤣 too funny! Should I come across that video I'll do my best to restrain myself haha
Omg I thought it was just me that felt that way! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Fumoto valves
I use a magnetic tool grabber extended out once I get it loosened to the point of coming out and just use the magnet at a distance to spin it the rest of the way.
I agree with your method. Flush the engine will release gunk which won't come out without an extra oil change.
There are some flush products that are meant to used for ~100miles before oil change, since their chemicals are not so harsh on the parts. I think I would trust them more. Engine gaskets are sensitive parts which could lead to very expensive repairs. Never done an engine flush though. I prefer using good oils and shorter change intervals. Great video 👍
I personally do this method every oil change and the oil stays clean for a long while after changes. Get the engine hot, add a quart of diesel, idle for 10 minutes, and finally drain. It gets a whole lot more stuff out and doesn’t cost much. Doing a flush with cheap oil is very wasteful.
@@markm0000 well oil and filter is only around 40 bucks. But I’ll let people do what they want
Engine flush will destroy engines with wet cambelts
@@gamesmaster1060why
@@andyrendon7753 For my car, 9 liters of oil, its 100,- euro's in oil.
I've always changed my oil every 5000km and flush it 3 times instead of two. I know it seems overkill but both my cars run smoothly and have never caused me any issues.
Same I always change mine at 5000km mileage(about 2-3mth) and I'll do a full flush once a year which after the 1st flush I'll do another(2nd) final flush on 500km mileage and the every flush costs me about MYR160 Malaysian ringgit(about USD40). Most people not consider flushing but to have smooth ride I thought it is the best way
@Christopher Tan Yeah twice! Same brand and type. It's kinda sound stupid but rather not to use flush additive because it'll affecting the seals lifespan. I'll do it once a year on year end
@@yeongkarsoon481 But i think the vendor of engine flush has considered about the seal/rubber issue. Now Days in Indonesia, the authorized service use engine flush as the part of periodic service.
I changed my oils every 15000km since 2004 on my ford falcon. No engine flush and now have 600000 km on original engine.
@@yeongkarsoon481 is it problem if we use to drive 500km or more after 1st flush or recommend to change for 2nd flush immediately?
Change your oil every 5k and this shouldn't have to be performed unless you really like the car and plan on keeping it for a long time. As a dealership tech I can tell you that MOST do not care this much about their vehicles. If they did I'd never have work.
Some parts are just junk from the factory. You'd be fine.
@@ABeans07 😂😂😂
I own an 05 Civic with oil consumption. Would this be reccomended to do on the engine? I've been told that flushing the engine could cause more oil to be dispursed & that'll create an even bigger problem. I plan on using the Liquid-Moly Anti Friction, but would the flush alone protentially cause more problems? Thanks. V-TEC engine @ 170k btw
@@dbzownz12345 in your case I'd think possible piston ring issues, they may be worn and there were issues around your year range with blocks leaking from the factory and head gaskets blowing. The block leak was a recall so I'd doubt that's an issue and a blown head gasket is pretty noticable so u doubt it's that. So I'd focus on sealing any leaks and then see how it consumes. If it still a serious issue after that I'd recommend piston rings.
@@alleyesopen7776 What's the best product you'd suggest for sealing the leaks? I've ben told to use Rislone (yellow bottle) or their Compression Ring Sealer or Liquid Moly Anti Friction. Also heard Seafoam HM formula could prevent blow by as well, thoughts? Thanks.
I performed this procedure on three consecutive oil/filter changes with a 5k mile interval. The sacrificial oil on the third oil change looked new! This was on a Chevy 5.3 with 255k miles.
If you drain the oil after flush whilst engine is still hot leave it for 5mins the chemicals actually burn off, by design of the product. You can simply flush again with oil to be extra safe but you don’t actually need to!
What you can do in 2 minutes and 56 seconds, takes others 15minutes. Thankyou for teaching us so efficiently and saving our time good sir!
Good video, using Liqui Moly or Forte engine flush is good stuff. After the flush I always use cheapest oil I can get (even semi of non synthetic will do) , new filter, run for two minutes. Drain. If oil is still dirty, I repeat the procedure.
Last oil and filter is high grade. Also I use Forte fuel additive for cleaning fuel system, fuel tank and add seal conditioner.
Never had problems. Even with engines that had not run for years - use fogging oil prior first start up!
Great tip!
*No worries, Owen. For the price, Mobil 1 works just fine as a flush oil. Then follow up with gallon of Red Line and smile. Regardless of label claims, factory additive package is always the first casualty. Therefore 5,000 Miles or 6 Months should be the limit until a Blackstone Labs report directs otherwise. Your 4.7M views are well-earned. Cheers!*
I appreciate the oil states could last 20k miles, I would never leave my next oil change that long. I don't flush my engine on my vehicles, I just do regular servicing at intervals given, both vehicles happy at 200k plus.
Thanks for sharing. The 20k oil will be analyzed by Blackstone Labs once it reaches that point to see if there is any life left in it and how it did overall. So well see in a few months!
For my cars, and for other people that they care about their engines in Poland, 10k kilometers is the limit. Compared to The high mileage 20k miles shit
@@hubertgorlewski2404 exactly
I change my oil 6k as is cheaper to do oil and filters rather than engine rebuild
Totally agree - second flush with cheap oil - Warm the engine first (Diesel) - Don't forget to change your oil filter after you drop the fist oil&flush out the engine
So I have to buy 2 filtres? One for the flash and the other one for using it after
@@cristiankanezaki4939Yep you don't want to be running whatever chunks of goodies gets broken up & caught in the oil filter. It'll take a few go throughs to get everything out.
That was an expensive oil change! I do something similar every 4 or 5 changes because I buy 5L of oil each time and save whatever is leftover for the periodic second flush. I use a LiquiMoly flush, then I run the cocktail of leftover oils with a cheap filter for 500 miles before doing the proper change. I also jack the car up at all kinds of angles to get more out of the sump lol. Perhaps OCD, but I enjoy doing it. I've also tried the LiquiMoly Sludge flush which you run in the engine for around 100 miles.
That's a very good approach, you must have a super clean engine! I just got a can of the sludge remover, not easy to get in the US, it came over from the UK, can't wait to try it out!
I also get 5 L canisters and my car takes 4 Litres. I just measure out a litre and when the draining oil is almost all out I just flush the pan out by adding the litre with the drain plug out.
Probably not necessary to try to get every last drop of dirty oil. You can't do it unless you want to take apart the whole engine. I learned this when I took apart my 1988 Nissan pickup, it had 180,000 miles on it and only 100K of those miles were mine. I changed the oil every 3 months like clockwork and here is what I found when I took the engine apart to do in-car overhaul: the timing chain was like new (although the tensioner was chewed up but not all the way gone). The connecting rod bearings were like new, and no ridge at the top of the cylinder (as happens on under-maintained engines). The piston rings were still fine but I changed them anyway (after honing the cylinders). In short the engine had no sludge deposits and little noticeable wear, you'd need a micrometer to measure any. Changing oil too often is the better course of action, to me.
Just purchased a used 2005 car.first flush at 100 miles 2nd flush 500 3rd flush at 1000 miles using marvel mystery oil.now premium oil and filters for a long happy life with no sludge!!!
I do the extra flushing by blowing out the dirty oil using a small leaf blower with moderate power plugged in from the top engine inlet with clean rags. I've noticed it was able to blow away almost half a quart of dirty oil that doesn't drain with gravity alone. The only downside is oil is blowing all throughout the ground.
That is an interesting approach! I guess if you tape a bag around the drain hole it could prevent it from spraying and catch everything for easy disposal.
If you do tape à bag, make some holes on the top for air to escape
And the dust the leaf blower might be sucking up blowing it in the engine 😅
I’m currently trying to help out my 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 with 306,800 miles (5.3L L33 V8.) Put Seafoam in the oil, ran an extremely high concentration of it for about 20-25 miles in the gas tank as well (26 ounces to about 3 gallons of gas.) Did the intake spray as well.
The past two oil changes I’ve done them 2,500 miles apart. I put Seafoam in at 1,200 miles and once I hit 1,500 miles I am going to add Rislone engine treatment and let it idle/low rpm drive through the neighborhood. After, I plan on draining all oil and maybe even pouring a quart or two through it just to get whatever’s loose at the bottom of the oil pan.
After watching this video I’m going to buy cheap oil and a filter and let it pick up all the detergents and residual sludge/loose carbon. Hadn’t of done it if I didn’t see this.
Thanks!!
Wow your engine will be super clean. Congrats on hitting 300k!
diesel fuel is the cheapest and oldest engine cleaner,just don't mix too much of it
One of the best flush videos I’ve seen.
Thank you!
Mechanic here 15 plus years. Use the BG brand EPR engine flush no need to do an extra oil change. Safe for enigne and seals. Good idea to flush newer vehicles every other service.
Disagreed. Use Synthetic and either the OEM filter or a Purolator Pure or BOSS and change every 5,000. You won't have a sludge issue
engine flush will destroy some engines with wet cambelts
Irv Gordans went 3,000,000 miles with oil changes every 3,000 miles. A good way to know when to change your oil is if you begin not to see your oil level lines on the dip stick through the oil. It’s time to change oil and filter. Over fifty five years using this method and never ever had an engine fail. When I sold the vehicles people commented my engines as being the best seen and heard. I would reply thank you I take care of my vehicles.
I'm gonna get a 2nd oil change tomorrow due to this vid. I had some acetone flush in the engine two days ago. Got first oil change today. thanks
Good luck!
@ijaztariq2541 yeah I added 250 ml of nano boron nitride as lubricant and 300 ml of molybdenum (Liquid Moly) - so I had an extra 1/2 quart out of 7 quarts total. Normally this is supposed to be fine for my oil pan since it has a front pickup tube and that extra oil prevents lack of oil during quick acceleration throwing the oil to the back of the pan. But the Liquid Moly or molybdenum had this magnetic induction effect where it got sucked into the spark plug wells past the piston rings - since the Liquid Moly is nano size. So in other words I was supposed to drive the engine for 10 minutes to work in the boron nitride - and the engine sounded terrible. The next day I was idling at the auto parts store contemplating what to do and the "service engine soon" light kicked on and then the engine stalled out!
So I drove to the oil change quick lube where I had just had the new synthetic oil put in the night before. They insisted that I just take out the extra 1/2 quart of oil by changing out the filter since they didn't want to replace that fresh 7 quarts of oil. So I played along with that and drove off - no charge - new filter - and the Service light came on again - flashing.
So I got another oil change at a different quick lube place - and the service light still came on. By this time I had checked the code and I got misfire in cylinder six. So I then cleaned out that spark plug well - and it was all black from the molybdenum!! I still had a general misfire after I replaced the spark plug. So then I cleaned out ALL the spark plug wells and replaced all the spark plugs. STILL had a general misfire - only now it was Flashing.
So then I realized I had damaged my catalytic converter - since I also did another engine flush and then I tried to clean out the catalytic converter with lacquer thinner. Since that didn't work then I got a $200 new cat and got it welded in by the muffler shop for $200. STILL got the cylinder six misfire flash and it went away.
Engine still sounded terrible and like it had valve damage or maybe rod damage. So I tried adding some MORE boron nitride and then I got the misfire code again - this time solid and not flashing.
So I drove to this one mechanic and he said that the new catalytic converter is working fine but the cylinder six misfire is intermittent - so it's NOT a valve or rod knock! This was a huge relief to me. He said maybe I needed to replace the ignition coil. In fact I had just put in all new ignition coils - but he said maybe that one was bad. So I ordered 1 nice Delphi OEM ignition coil. It took too long to get it so I switched out the cylinder six ignition coil - with cylinder two. Misfire was still there.
So I bought a 2nd new ignition coil locally and misfire was still there.
Finally I removed the cylinder six spark plug - it's behind the firewall so you can't see it. The porcelain on the plug was cracked - and I was not sure if I cracked it when taking it out. That particular plug for my engine is too long to use the spark plug socket. So when I put in the NEW spark plug again I did not torque it to spec since that seemed to be putting to much torque at the wrong angle - since that cylinder is hard to get at.
Sure enough NOW finally the misfire was gone and the engine works - apparently fine now. In fact the lifter ticking noise seems to be better for sure than before - so all that engine flushing and snake oil seemed to clean out the engine after all.
Still I do have another 250 ml of boron nitride - and I could add a bit to it - but I have learned my snake oil lesson for now. haha.
1:32 That was so satisfying to watch. No funnel yet not even a drop! Good job.
I absolutely agree. I do exactly the same thing. I find that just draining it and filling up with new oil straight away doesnt change anything It still looks just as dirty on the dipstick as the old worn out oil. all the contaminants stay on the bottom of the pan, on the engine parts on the block and then it just contaminates the new oil straight away.
Usually oil should be changed right after driving as most contaminants will be suspended in the oil rather than settling into the pan.
@@bryanmartinez9848 yep exactly. While its hot. Its better straight away
I've done a similar test, except I take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the Moly and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you get to compare the flushing oil with the Moly flush. They are often the same, you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really gunked up engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the Moly.
Too many people put in Moly and say "Wow look how dirty the oil is, this Moly really works."
The oil is only flushing out residual dirty oil and sediments, the Moly is cleaning varnish.
Kind of important to know which is happening.
When the flush oil alone is the same as the Moly oil, you'll know your cars engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents.
As a mechanic we don’t do this to customer vehicles but to my own personal vehicles especially diesels I do this step clean oil lubricates better cleans the engine better and I’ve never had tapping noises or anything similar but I don’t use expensive oil when doing the second flush i use the midrange stuff or cheap stuff depending on the age of the vehicle and what type of vehicle it is
Great point, do you find diesel engine oil is much dirtier? I also suspect vehicles driven in dusty environments like the southwest or middle east might have more oil contamination due to exposure to the elements over time, what's your opinion on this? Thanks for watching!
@@OwenLucas Diesel engine oil is normally a rich black colour doing the two flush method don’t have a impact on the colour and all I can say on other vehicles in other countries is that every manufacturer supplies information best suited too there climate on oils too use and service intervals always follow manufactures advise is the best thing I can say
Mobil1 also has strong detergents in it as well. It's a high quality oil. I have spoken to people who work in Mobil oil products and they said the closest competitor in qualify is the Penzoil Ultra Platinum. They also said each brand actually picks different oil characteristics to be the best in. They didn't dive into specifics but said some brands might clean better, while others might fight heat better, and so. They said the Mobil approach was to be the best overall and balanced in each category.
Those are great points!
Pennzoil Ultra visibly started to clean the varnish in my engine in 2 oil changes. Can't recommend it enough.
Valvoline, Motul, and Amsoil top also
@@babagandu tmkc gandubaba
Walmart Super Tech has all the same fancy numbers and letters as the big boy companies. It’s API approved and has the seal to prove it. You like pretty bottles and logos and the higher price impressions you and makes you sleep better at night then buy it. Change your oil yourself every five thousand miles for about $30.00. Walmart full synthetic oil five quart jug about $21.00 and a K&N Mobil One or any quality filter total runs about $30.00. Do it yourself.
Very clearly presented the correct procedure of using Motor Flush Oil.
Thank you very much.
Thank you!
I change my engine every 3000-5000 km, saves having to flush and it runs smooth.
It sounds really weird but I actually use royal purple after chem flush due to how many specialized conditioners and aggressive detergents it has. Run it a hundred miles or so and then start your cheaper flushes, or just stick with the purple if that floats your boat, I'm an amsoil guy myself. It's more expensive, but it's the way to go.
@Highlights Unleashed I never use true aluminum LS's buy only iron block lm7s and sbc and LA chrysler and Magnums. I have NEVER seen white sediment from royal purple and I have no problems talking trah on royal bc I an AMSOIL guy. The shit works fine and actually concerned why you're getting white chalk in your builds
@@Ty_Cade o I was just saying that I can't talk for guys running aluminum, but I've never had any sediment in any of my iron blocks
@Highlights Unleashed ahhh alright,nah I only run iron blocks because I'm an absolute asshole to my engines 🤣
i never had to flush the engine as i used to change the oil every 5000km even if the oil can be used for more mileage however im now using diesel engine oil which have more solvents.. the results are unbelievable at replacing the valve cover gasket the valve cover and cams were so clean
U are using diesel engine oil for petrol car ?
@@visharadsudans yes I do as well. Running diesels rotella t6 for the past 5 years on my Miata and the lifter tick has gone away and with no issues.
@@eviltwiiin wat are the benefits of using diesel oils in petrol cars ?
@@visharadsudans like the guy above said, diesel oil has more detergents.
When I replaced the valve cover on my 2001 BMW at 170k Miles everything was sparkly clean in there. No oil residue build up whatsoever.
I think modern engines, if oil is changed regularly, don't have as much gunk in there as people think. I replaced oil every ~8k miles
Once in a while I drive 500 miles on cheap oil, drain it and the oil looks new. Amazing what taking care of an engine accomplishes.
clean/dirty looking oil doesn't mean anything dude, only a 'used oil analysis' can be trusted.
What a waste of time and money
I am more impressed at the neatness and accuracy of your poured oil from a 5 gallon container was!
Haha thanks!
Nice explanation. I have a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 with 100k miles and I was planning to treat it with the engine flush, for the first time. However, I've seen other videos in which they suggest avoiding the use of these additives because, according to them, they can mess the seals and carry aggregates to places where they should not be. However, I see you used it on a similarly aged engine ...
I have not experienced any problems so far, runs just fine. Liqui Moly's website states: "Neutral to seals and other materials installed in the engine".
Look at other sources and make an informed decision. From my experience and reading, yes seal leams and engine problems can occur after flushing.
I agree also if you didnt build the engine i wouldnt recomend flushing it unless it is pivital to fixing a existing problem. I found after flushing a engine that where prior mechanics had used black rtv silicon that the silicon became soft elastic mushy and started leaking oil permanently where there was a good seal before the flush. I recomend not doing it unless you know all the engine parts will be able to handle it..
I used it on my 359,000 mile Honda CRV and it made it run great. Also added Ceratec in the new oil. Your car will be fine lol
Unless you have a problem, just throw in seafoam, marvel mystery oil, or another such product a few hundred miles before the change.
Its not as aggressive and people have done it for half a century with no problems
After used liqui moli, run engine at idle speed for 10 minutes, then drain engine oil and change oil filter.Next fill new engine oil and new oil filter. Have we done this step for 2 times or, what if we don't change oil and filter again, i mean just done 1 times for changing oil and filter?..will be we get the problem?..you know 2 times for change oil and filter plus 1 bottle of liqui moly, expensive enough?
1 bottle of Liqui Moly and 1 extra oil and filter change is enough unless you have a lot of gunking. You can do 2 flushes in a row if you want and then 1 oil / filter change after.
If you are doing oil changes every 20k miles, I am not surprised it comes out so dirty. Its better to change the oil every 3k to 5k instead of 20k and not have to worry about flushing the sludge and varnish out.
Thank you, very interesting video :)
I consider doing this for my Honda's "10 year" oil change, 10 years with only basic oil change and 135 000 kilometers, a good flush won't hurt :)
Sounds like you should have some good results! Enjoy and good luck!
@@OwenLucas Thank you :)
I wanted to simply use an additive, but you convinced me than I should also do a flush after that, to remove the remaining additive, and the remaining super-dirty oil inside, the color of your flushing oil was eye-opening about how much residue stays in the engine after just a basic oil change.
Am i the only one thinking when watch this video, he put oil to the engine without using funnel and its amazing.
Funny, I was thinking about flushing my ML55 and whether I should flush it again with regular oil. And just like that this video was in my recommended section. I guess I will do a second flush with regular oil after seeing the discoloration of the oil coming out after the second flush. Get it out! Thanks for the video!
These cell phones listen to us man! 💀
@@edubb2491 Propably! In this case it was a good thing... o_0
You are correct about flushing the engine with clean oil. 10-20% of old oil and solvents will remain after a regular oil change. Some think all those chemicals will just evaporate, but they are wrong. If you want to see if the flush helps, you need to do two clean oil flushes first to get a 99.9% clean sump, sample the oil using a lab. Then add the flush detergent/solvents, run the engine as directed. Sample the oil again for particle count test. The second drain in your vehicle the mixing of old oil with new, and not the result of the flush. Flushing with clean oil works far better.
If you flush for the first time in a high mileage engine= add the flush in the old oil, empty, put new cheap oil + another flush, empty... And put new good oil, you are done.
@@Big1_ I would not put more flush solvents in a second time. Just replace with cheap oil, run it for 20 minutes at highway speed and drain.
@@tssci6774 It´s a good idea too, both are good ideas, depends the mileage of the car. etc.
My BMW motorcycle handbook specifically stated not to use moly oils as if strips a coating from engine components.
Anyone who leaves their oil in for 20k miles is insane🤦
The final oil fill was with Mobile 1 Extended Performance High Mileage Synthetic. Designed to last 20k miles or 1 year. If I notice any issues I'll change the engine oil early but I think it will be fine. I'm going to complete an oil analysis once the 20k is completed so stay tuned!
@@OwenLucas why not do an analysis at 10k and then again at 20k? If the oil isn't doing its job well, then you'll know sooner before doing more damage than just letting things go.
@@OwenLucas yeah and a box of pizza is supposed to last the night but that never happens now does it
Change oil evry 6k best engine last longer
@@owen8538 sh!t i change mine every 3months 😅 but then again I love the smoothness of my Engine sales goes with my transmission oil every 3 months
Liquimoly makes a dam good product used one of their products on a corvette with a nasty lifter tick, made it run smooth as silk and never ticked again
It is definitely worth it to do a "rinse" after the flush to get more of the sludge and carbon out, which is the purpose of the flush. As an aside, I'd use a funnel. Your hands are much steadier than mine :)
I have 2 more flush videos coming out , no funnels either. The trick is not to drink any coffee haha. Thank you for watching!
I thought the exact same thing about his steady hands!
What do u mean by rinse?
No need to hold the bottle freehand, just brace one hand against the engine cover like a tripod
I change my oil every 3000kms since i did my rebuild.
Barra 4L bored out to 4.1L and built for 1500kw.
I NEVER USE ENGINE FLUSH.
No carbon build up after 100,000kms...
I run the correct temperature oil.
For me its 10w50.
If you run an oil thats not designed for the heat and runs too thin it WILL burn and go black.
Inside of my motor still looks new.
And if you want to decarbonise your motor... change the oil more regular and use a few cans of throttle body cleaner at idle through your intake (brief sprays so the motor doesn't stall).
That will release carbon in your valve paths and clean up the pistons and clean your intake...
Then drain your oil...
Engine flush is bad on crank and rod bearings and ruins valve seals and main seals and eats away at silicon seals (oilpan seal etc)
You missed one very important step just at the beginning: before pouring the LM, make sure, that after adding it to the oil, the oil level on the dipstick is still in norm level! It was written on my LM bottle/can... So if You have your oil level topped to max norm level, better suck some out before adding LM. That step wasn't mentioned in this material, but interestingly LM doesn't say anything on after the flushing another flush with the fresh oil before pouring the good oil. Maybe market dependable?!
I flushed my 2017 Hyundai sonata with over 130k miles. Flushed it twice with a new oil filter each time then added the right amount of oil. My car runs fine and no problems at all. I do change my oil regular every 4k miles. No big change at all but just wanted to test it out and see if I can tell the difference.
Well done! 💪
Guess I am not delaying my engine oil change and engine oil flush anymore. Currently, I have an engine oil additive helping prevent serious issues for a few more weeks. It keeps the engine extremely cool.
So in coming weeks, I need to definitely buy:
1. 2 oil filters
2. 4 liters of 5W-40
3. 4 liters of 10W-40
4. 250mL Engine oil additive
5. Liqui moly
It is crazy how dirty the engine oil is even if it is brand new suggesting I definitely need to flush off the dirt soon.
Top tip. You don't have to use engine oil flush if you change your oil regularly. 5k miles for regular oil and 10k miles on synthetic oil. Change your oil people.
My oil was changed regularly for the past 15 years, at some point gunk and sludge will form from heavy use. It wasn't too bad on my car but imagine a taxi idling all day or a work truck towing heavy loads day in day out.
3k on regular oil/5k on synthetic oil
@@barrypowell829 I usually go a little over 3K with regular oil or synthetic blend. 10K between oil changes seems to be temping fate. I assumed there is some small print that says "Up to" right before the 10K recommendation with synthetic oil.
I probably change mine too early, a habit I picked up from my Dad. His theory was he never saw an engine fail because the oil was too clean.
Got a 2006 Corolla and have 260k miles on it. Never had a problem aside from a worn out clutch had to replace it on 190k. Modern oils have detergents that will clean your engine. Please stop using engine flush, you will scar the bearings and crankshaft. By the way I forgot to say it's 5k and 10k highway miles. If you live on NYC or LA with traffic you should change your oil early. Try to check the dipstick every week to see if it's already black. Drive safe everyone.
Can't argue with that. I watch a lot of these videos and read a lot about car maintenance. There's a lot of things i wanted to try including engine flushes just to make myself think i was doing something amazing to keep my car tiptop. After consuming so much information, i came to realise no, it's actually just that simple. The best quality oil does all the work for you. You just got to keep it there fresh and clean every 12000km in my case. Anything beyond is just trying to do something to tell yourself damn I'm so good at maintaining my car, look at all this these things I'm doing
Flush the engine and do the next oil change at a shorter interval seems like a decent idea too
You never ever wanna flush a modern engine buddy. Once you knock loose all the dirt with the flush then all that crap gets into all the little screen filters that feed the vetc etc and can clog up the tiny holes that pressurize those systems to work. Rather do regular oil changes at shorter intervals than specified by the manufacturer and you'll never have to worry.
@@reiannaidoo a service guy flushed my civic 9th without taking my proper permission. I did not wajt to to. What should I do? Should I get it checked for small pores clogging at any shop or just keep driving?
@@MajidUrRehman just keep driving. Don't worry about it to much. If there is a problem the car will let you know. The check engine light will come on or you might start having performance and other issues. Still i think there is a good chance that you will be just fine.
@@reiannaidoo Thanks!
@@reiannaidoo I recommend my friends the same
Wow! Finally someone uses his brain lol! I always said this is the best way but ppl always say it's ofc a bit more expensive. Few ppl really LOVE their car or cars in general.
Perfect mate!
Exactly! Thank for watching!
I've only read about this on forums. Thank you for explaining this method and listing the steps.
Glad it was helpful!
Short and sweet, It's hard to videos which are too the point ... Great job man!!! kudos
I would never extend oil change to 20k miles because it means problems. Many cars in Europe that have extended intervals (30000km) experience problems with bearings or timings chains. 10k is long enough and doesn't hinder engine life.
Looks like a second flush is needed on every oil change by the looks!
You can use the mobil1 used for flushing as engine oil for like lawnmowers, atv's, generators, things thet don't need high quality oil.
With high mileage like this one some said not to flush because it will cause engine leak. It removes all the gunks that otherwise seal from oil leaking. Is this true ?
I've heard of this theory but I don't really believe it because I don't see how it is possible for some soft gunk to withstand 7+ psi of oil pressure and block any leakages. My engine has 180k miles on it and does not leak at all after the engine flush. I actually flushed it again and have a new video coming out soon. Still no leaks.
@@OwenLucas I had been told the same thing about not flushing in case the deposit removal would open up leaks.
I would like to do a flush like this though, because I think my engine needs it. There were 156k miles on it before I bought it, all with Volvo dealerships (it's a 2015 D4 Diesel XC60).
I also note that there are other additives that can help to seal up minor leaks should they show up anyway ... have you ever used one of these??
I do that to my 997 turbo put the flush into the hot engine then 20 min , drain the oil , I put new oil for half hour the drain it again. Then I change the filter with the new oil
Awesome ride!
Excellent view point. While adding the flush. Should i need to remove existing oil by the volume of flush we are adding. My engine oil is 3.8L capacity. Planning to use Liqui moli flush
Yes I filled up the engine oil completely each time and it is fine to use the flush with the original old oil. 👍
@@OwenLucas 😊 Thanks
I just did a flush using a comparable product, BG EPR, but instead of putting sacrificial oil and running it briefly to flush out the flush, I dropped and cleaned the pan and let whatever residual oil was left drip into a drip pan, which I was going to do anyway as it hasn't been done on this car in ages. I even let the engine run for a couple of seconds when it was "dry", to get the remaining few ounces of oil out. So I think I accomplished much the same thing. Of course this isn't something you do every oil change, but it needed to be done in this situation.
That's wild how dirty the second flush was, still!
Agreed.. after the 1st Liquimoly Engine Flush poured into the old oil.. run for 10 mins. Poured them out. Fill another cheaper fresh oil eitj engine flush again, run for another 10 mins. Pour out the oil. I did another fresh oil run for my brother car.. since the car has 175.000 km for its 1st enginr flush.. the next oil has longer bright color.. and sounds smoother too..
👍 I noticed the valve train sounds quieter on really cold winter starts.
For the 2nd flush with cheap new oil, do you need full oil capacity?
Yes, full capacity, 2nd flush is basically another oil change.
I've always thought of this and seeing someone else do it convinces me that I'm not being overly careful haha. My second thought is would it be safe to buy the cheapest filter for the first oil flush? Because i like to use genuine filters but I'd hate to waste one just for the first oil flush.
Yes since you're using it for minutes only, the cheapest filter will work great.
@@FroztiProductions not to mention that you are just letting the engine idle. I won't use a Purolator filter. They pack so much filter material that yes oil comes out of it cleaner... I have also seen an oil pressure DROP of over 10 pounds with one. I'll change my oil when I'm supposed to, to keep it clean and use a Good Fram filter and keep my oil pressure too. I drive a lot at higher rpms and oil pressure is your best friend(and Good brakes!)!
Ya'll Take care and be safe, John
@@JohnDoe-pv2iu lol so what happens when you use it on a Toyota that doesn't need more than 10psi like this Scion haha
Of course, for that purpose I can't think of any reason NOT to use el cheapo oil filter when its running 20 minutes and getting changed. I'd even buy a fram for that lol (they're the worst)
Did exactly this method yesterday for my 180 000 miles car. After started my car i begin to hear strange sounds, like pf, then for a several seconds it works normally and again pf, and the same thing like every 15 secs. After i drived 15-20 mins that bad sounds gone. What that was exactly? Im also changed spark plugs after flushing engine. I runned diagnostic for my car and there was zero faults. Today i tried accelerate many timesnand my car accelerates slower then before.
I’m sure the guys at molly have thought about there product staying in the oil , oil is a cleaner as well as a lubricant, and even a cooler of some sort , what is left in there shouldn’t be worried about , it will come out with the next oil change , or , through a breather
This is only if you do extended oil change intervals like 10k plus. If you change your oil every 5k miles, you never need to worry about any engine flushes.
It’s definitely not a regular maintenance thing, but if you buy a high mileage car without explicit service records, this is a tempting peace of mind treatment before starting my own regular OCI schedule.
That’s a good practice but not necessary unless the engine oil changes been neglected. On regular oil changes you can use flush and then replace the oil and filter and you are good to go 👍
That's what Liqui Moly say on their website.
Used to do this with transmission fluid , drain out a qt. Of oil add transmission fluid run to operating temp let cool down repeat , always worked good for me , old timers method.
Definitely do not rev it with trans fluid in there.
Frequent oil changes should be all you need.
Just use good quality oil and filters and dont go over 5K (synthetic) or 3K (non synthetic) and with modern oils with their detergent packages, you should be good to go.
Everything you did was right, you are close to perfection but you should remove the crankcase or sump at the bottom after draining the old oil with liquid moli , to assist the secondary cleansing with the cheaper oil before you go for the final oil
Back in the 50s, people would drain the oil and add gallon of kerosene (was cheap then), run the engine for one minute, then drain and leave the plug out for l can’t remember how long to make sure it’s all gone . Then put the new oil in. I saw my dad and the man who ran the gas station do this.
Engine flushes were especially important back in the day when oil filters weren't standard and oil technology was basically crude dinosaur stock. Thank you for watching!
@@OwenLucas probly why cars in the 50s lasted 80k miles.. lol. Id never put a liquid like water alone in the engine
I hope I followed correct procedure by leaving the old filter on when doing the 2nd round with (indeed) cheaper motor oil. After that, I replaced that old filter and added the new (quality) oil.
It really won't make a difference, the oil filter should catch what was floating around and the new filter will catch any remaining. 💪
There are some other methods to prevent blow by gases from entering the combustion chamber like adding a catch can and cleaning intake valves. It would be more logical to prevent gunk entering the engine and then clean the engine with engine flush.
On my 2002 V6 Camry, I installed a generic universal clear plastic fuel filter, into the PCV line that goes from the valve cover into the throttle body/air intake system. The amount of oil it catches is tiny but it adds up, maybe half a teaspoon of oil inside that clear filter per year of operating the car.
I subscribed because this is the right procedure to do. Thanks for sharing.
Be careful using these chemicals It could knock off sludge and if it’s a chunk it could get caught in a very small clearances of the engine. Instead use something like Castrol GTX ultra clean oil. It’s not a harsh cleaning. Change the oil every two thousand miles a couple of times. That way it’s slower but safer. Just my opinion.
Have you seen hot shots secret stiction oil treatment? What that does is turns the sludge and chunks of carbon back into a liquid for the car to easily expose of them. I'm waiting for some to arrive to try out as many people are talking about there products
Drain old oil first and then fill new budget oil with liquimoly for more flushing power.... Then fill as usual..... My old 2003 E320 wagon loves it...172K miles
Great tip!
Still need the post moly cheep oil flush so you're not actually getting anything for the preflush change.
Just change oil more often no need for engine flush
Yep most modern engine oil includes solution to keep the engine clean like small quantities of detergent
Agree, unless the condition of the car is unknown. I picked up a 2006 BMW 523i with only 68,000 miles on it last December. I did an oil change and realized when seeing the oil coming out that it needed to be flushed as the oil change intervals were clearly too long. I did this twice and now I'm confident normal oil changes is all that will be required from now on.
@@readmycomment4696 You will eventually have some breakdown / sludge in oil over the years and thousands of miles of driving, especially if its in a hot climate or under heavy use. This was my cars 1st oil flush and I might just do one just for fun after this 20k life oil is finished.
If you do an oil flush and you get much more gunk out with your fluid drain, then the proof is in the pudding that the oil flush created a benefit worth doing.
Some cars are better candidates than others. Some cars burn a lot of oil and may leave behind more residue, while other cars may not have been well maintained by the previous owner.
@Owen Lucas I hope you're not planning on leaving the oil in for 20k miles 😂
0:53 I would expect all the alkanes and cyclics as solvents, and the phosphoric makes tons of sense for rust inhibition alone, but calcium solts and especially the polymers are surprising. Zinc salts + phosphoric also seems like it could be there to do some chemical galvanization.
However, I can't think of any component of an engine that would be PMMA/Acrylic. Yet Liqui Moly has the monomer in the cocktail? Olefin and Siloxane make sense for repairing PC/HDPE and rubber.
What I would do is to drain the old oil (without Liqui Moly Pro Line Engine Flush ®️) then fill it in with a cheap oil but still has the right grade and a cheap oil filter, run it idle for 15-20 minutes then add the Liqui Moly Pro Line Engine Flush Pro Line®️ then drain. I wonder how the color of the new oil would look like
I own an 05 Civic with oil consumption. Would this be reccomended to do on the engine? I've been told that flushing the engine could cause more oil to be dispursed & that'll create an even bigger problem. I plan on using the Liquid-Moly Anti Friction, but would the flush alone protentially cause more problems? Thanks.
@@dbzownz12345 bro I flushed my 359,000 mile CRV and added Ceratec and it literally transformed the car and made it run 10 times smoother. Don’t listen to all these dorks- just do the flush and add Ceratec or MoS2 and enjoy the great results
@@mcdoob Is that 359k motor the orginal? Cause that sounds really high mileage to be doing a flush on. If so, than kudos to you for that.
@@dbzownz12345 yes vin matching 👍 I’ll be honest I was pretty scared but it payed off in the end and really improved the car
@@mcdoob What if the engine's burning oil? Just changed my PCV valve with recent oil change. Seems to have helped a bit, but burning oil can't be stopped unless I tear down the engine. Thought? Thanks.
I get the engine hot and put in a quart of diesel then let it idle for 10 minutes. It gets way more stuff out than a normal drain and doesn’t cost anything.
Try the same thing without the Moly and you'll see similar results and you won't have to worry about a cleaning agent diluting your oil. Run the fresh oil, pull a sample out, then ad the Moly and you'll see it's about the same when you drain the Moly. Unless the car is really gunked up, mostly the flush agent is a waste. The only real question is do you want to remove all the residual dirty oil with cheap oil before you add the good stuff?
Another option is do a 1000 mile slow flush with Marvels or a RX auto type product. This way you are not damaging seals nor expecting all the cleaning to be done in 15 minutes. Then after 1000 miles you can change to the expensive oil and filter.
These thining agents give us this quick fix, but do you really think thining your oil is a good thing or that solvents and oil seals go well together?
Why not just use kerosene, diesel or La's Awesome Degreaser if you want exciting results that might damage your engine? What manufacturers manul recommends flushing your engine with thinning agents?
Those are good points. I think LM recognizes the thinning action of their flush which is why the instructions only ask to idle the engine for 10-15 minutes. They state not to drive the vehicle or rev the engine. I believe this is because, like you say, the oil is thinned and any load beyond idle would damage the bearings.
I've heard that you can put some automatic transmission oil in your oil and run it a few days and it will really clean your engine good.
I’ve heard that too but I’d be careful, who knows what it does to seals over a few days. Some people have used diesel fuel successfully, only for 20 minutes though, idling only. I’d rather do that than ATF.
Idk if I would ever want to go 20k miles on an oil change even if it said it was good that long. I use synthetic and change every 5k miles and my engines are like new inside. LiquiMoly is a great product I use their ceratec once in awhile and I try to use the mOs2 treatment at every OCI.
Same I go every 5k with mobile1
I drove new Ford Transit van at work (European version). Factory oil change interval is 25 000 miles. Van is 1 year old and still haven't had his first oil change. It's been used almost everyday on highway. On top of that it had stu*id start and stop system. This van will have new engine and turbo in it in just few years, just in time when varranty on it expires😉