I am super late, but just wanted to thank you for all of your videos over the years. The content of the videos - how you explain what you are doing, why you are doing it, showing each step, recommendations you might have, tips/tricks, how you stress important points, etc. is outstanding! And it's all valuable and not filled with fluff or unrelated information like so many others. You've taught me a lot and have saved me time, money, and frustration over the years. Thank you so much!
Brian Van is the man, best teacher I love how these videos are so detailed nothings is missed can't wait to start the bike build, I'm gonna be ordering a few parts from the website.
Thanks so much, very informative video, never took the back tire off a bike before, have a 2004 Kawasaki Ninja ZX10R with 56,000.00. I am sure that this was the first time anyone has ever done this to the bike, but this video and I got the job done. Bike runs better than ever, didn't even need the extra link. Bike feels like I just got it back from dealer... thank you..
Any new jobs to do then Brian your vids are always fist point of call. Excellent as always. Just the right amount of detail and so professionally paced and discussed. super job. Just have to do it now 🙂
Love the bike, just rode it again last weekend and it is really coming along nicely. Got the suspension dialed in and it handles awesome. Heading to Mid Ohio next Monday with it.
This was an awesome run through. I think I understood most parts except the final touch on the chain after lubing. Might have to watch that part again but great videos man.
Great video. Just did a Driven 520 conversion kit two days ago. Used this video for pointers at several spots, but it definitely helped. Thanks for great tips.
You should be able to see the wear and/or notice some slippage in the chain/sprocket. I recommend changing both at the same time so they will wear together. ~Aubrey
that is great to hear, I will be glad to watch it, oh, I apologize I miss spelled your name. I am planning to purchase a R1 as soon as I redeploy and can't wait to make similar mods to it. I'll keep it street version but with a few mods for performance.
Can you please make a video on a How To replace the clutch plates on a R1 or R6? I loved this video was very simple to follow. I know there are other videos on a DYI full clutch replacement but would love to see how you do it and explain it 🙌🏼
Nice Vid, just a little tip, if you don't have impact or air tools then use the back brake to hold the rear wheel, it's better than throwing stuff in the back wheel and possibly cause some damage to paint - I got a detailed Video on my Hayabusa change to show how it's done. Thanks Mr B.
@Mitch- I cannot reply to your review direct if you don't your Google Plus linked with TH-cam. Either way, the X likely stands for the ring type, meaning that it is a high performance x-ring chain. This will probably vary on the brand, etc. ~Aubrey
You are welcome, here is a link to that on our site: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/ - Van
On a cb500x 2019, you DON'T have to break the master link ( aka completely break apart your chain) if you're not replacing the chain and are trying to replace the rear sprocket. After loosening the axle bolt's nut on the right side and loosening the chain-tension locking nuts ( one on each side) that will enable you to slide the entire wheel forward enough to loose enough chain tension. Remove the axle bolt ( 11 ish inches long ), and you'll need to kind of faniggle with the rear brake assembly lifting it at a small angle as you're working on sliding towards you ( to the rear) the wheel as the while you're able to remove the chain from the rear wheel's sprocket little by little. When you're ready to reinstall the rear wheel, as you're feeding/putting the chain on the sprocket, start from the top, otherwise you won't be able to get it on as their is an L shaped ( kinda) piece that is welded to the swingarm frame on the left side that gets in the way otherwise. I just finished my project of going from front/rear of 15 tooth/41 tooth stock sprockets, to 16t/40t sprockets ( I wanted lower rpms at the 60+ mph range for slightly better mpg as mpg starts kind of tanking beyond the 4300 rpm range...., about halfway mark of rpm). Remember these torque values, per honda themselves: Rear sprocket nuts ...85 foot pounds of torque/pound feet of torque Rear axle nut ( on the right side )...65 Chain adjusting lock nut ..one per side of the bike = 20 ( it's the 12mm nut...the 10mm is for moving that long adjusting screw it is hard-attached to that literally presses against the square metal faceplate that the 11 ish inch long axle/bolt goes through) My bike has barely cleared the 3k miles mark and I have been riding it very gently/easily ( never been above 70mph and don't hamfist the throttle trying to beat everyone 0-60mph either..I want my vehicles to truly last). Thus for me, changing out the front sprocket and rear sprocket without replacing the chain is really not much of a wear-n -tear risk to the chain. I changed the front sprocket bearly 400 miles from changing, today, the rear stock = 15t front, 41t rear mine = 16t front, 40t rear I wanted alittle lower rpm at the 60+ mph range for slightly better gas mileage as gas mileage on this bike begins to dip more noticeably at above the 4300 rpm range ( love my 75+ mpg). Hope this helped someone. I imagine most of this is similar for the 2013 through 2020 models with possibly some minor differences. Contact honda power sports or google a service manual if you can to confirm the correct torque specs for your make and model bike.
As long as the chain has enough links to accommodate the sprocket combo you plan to use and is in good shape the chain does not need to be broken. This video focuses on replacing the chain kit installing a lighter 520 chain and modifying the gearing just a bit. - Van
hey Bryan, I am a huge fan of your videos: they are very informative and professional. I am currently stationed in Germany and I am looking forward to become a track rider. I would really like to see a video on tips and techniques that you use at the track... It might sound a bit weird for me to ask that but you certainly inspire me with your videos.. too bad I'm about to deploy that doesn't mean I won't continue to follow your videos. BTW, don't mind my TH-cam name, I'm a MotoVlogger.
good video. As a gauge on how much to tighten the link i just use the link next to it to eyeball how it is and match it. ofc use.comon sense and general know how.. You might have added to clean and regrease the axel. might have just missed that from my end.
Thanks for the tutorial! Very detailed and informative. So I should be good with the same length of Chain if I go one tooth down for the front and 1 up in the back right? And if I order the chain and sprocket kit, I shouldnt have to change the length of the chain that comes in the kit? Thanks!
That change should work with the same size chain as long as you are not already to one extreme or the other in the chain adjustment. If you do not want to cut the chain go with one of the Vortex chain kits as they come cut to length. The Driven/RK Chain kits are also ready to go. The custom 520 kits we sell on the site will come with a 120 length chain and need to be cut. - Van
@Sport Bike Track Gear I just bought a 520 Driven sprocket kit with the RK Max X chain that's recommended off of the STG website, and I had to take off 3 links as of 7-27-22 for my '15 R6
We include a couple of STG Stickers with each order as well as a copy of Roadracing World Magazine. If you want a couple stickers and do not need anything now please email tony@sportbiketrackgear.com and tell him I sent you. - Van
Thanks, I have to ask. So IT IS okay to have the letterings facing inwards thus making the front sprocket "backwords" so long as the chain alignment is okay? when I flip mine around it slides way to far into the bike.
Yes that is 100% ok. Some applications require the front sprocket to be installed with the lettering facing the bike to get the proper spacing for chain alignment. - Van
Excellent video, thank you for making it. By the way, what type of lube/wax can I use to lube the master link, if I am missing that little stock grease packet?
Hey Bryan do you see any benefit to adding a aftermarket chain adjuster to your track bike I think LighTech would look good on the bike plus when I win the bike I won't have to add one.
Great video. Good job on the swap, nice tips to remember. I only seen one small problem: the chain tension adjustment looked a bit on the loose side. New chains will stretch quickly, and require re-adjustment a few times. I like to start with less chain slack. Every bike is different, but my bike seems to like 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" slack. My Owners Manual says do not ride the bike if it has 2" or more chain slack. I ride street only, so I am more concerned with safety and long lifespan. 530 chains may be heavier, but they last longer. This is important to me.
Thank you for watching and giving your feedback! Chain slack is always a continuous debate because it really boils down to riding style and preference. For the track, this is pretty much what Brian likes it at, but that doesn't mean it is right for the street rider or anyone else. Thanks again! ~Aubrey
He explains in the video that it allows for suspension movement -- which can often slightly change sprocket-distance during riding -- which is the primary reason for any 'slack' in the chain. (Try putting a stand under the front of your bike, and have a friend closely measure the axle-center distance with the bike at rest, then as you lift up on the rear [to represent the lift as you brake hard or crest a hill], and then with you sitting on the bike, and then with added weight on the bike [to represent compression of bottoming a low point or hard-cornering]. Compare all these measurements to see how much change occurs. Remember, the center of the drive sprocket does not have the same 'center' as the pivot of the swing-arm. So the 'geometry' will naturally not be the same arch-length. Of course, the chain tension should be checked frequently! Any chain that is under the stretching tension of 150+ HP, under constant changes, and the 'snap' torque of full power gear changes, IS going to stretch!
I'm a little bit confuse I watch all your videos and I'm looking how you put the front sprocket on some of the bike you stated different sprocket label should face out the others you said her face in I am confused I'm doing my work 2011 Suzuki 1000 with a driven front sprocket the local I face it in to the front shaft rocket On this video you facing out the logo facing out?
When you take the OEM counter shaft sprocket off note which way it was mounted to the shaft. Now lay the sprocket on the table with the side that faced the motor down. Now place the new sprocket on the table next to the OEM one. The new sprocket needs to be the same distance from the table as the OEM. See which side makes that happen and install the sprocket with the side that was down on the table towards the motor. This will keep the driveline spacing even front to rear. - Van
Very good instructions, but it would be useful to mention basic sprocket sizing theory to maximize life of chain and sprockets. Select paired and non-paired (is that even proper english?) sprocket ie. 16 and 43. Chain will wear much more evenly. Obviosly not a big thing for racing, but very useful for those who drive very much. *correction* Actually both sprockets should be odd numbered. Correct term in english appears to be "Hunting tooth gear set", check it out.
Couldn't find this information in my manual so i'll ask here. When installing the new chain did you ensure the tire was pushed more forward or backwards? Or a better understanding of this is where was the position of the markers of how tight or lose the chain is? Thanks
+Harmageddon When you install the new chain it should have the proper chain tension for your model (Google is a great resource). You will use the marks on the swingarm to keep the axle straight. Additionally I like to wedge a wrench in between the chain and sprocket then roll the wheel back to put tension on the chain which forces the axle blocks up against the adjusters. I will then tighten the axle nut while holding the tire to maintain tension. - Van
I put grease on the o-rings, but I forgot to grease the pins and inside of the link holes. I haven't riveted the chain yet but I already pressed the plate on. Is there a way to remove the plate so that I can grease the pins and holes and still salvage the master link?
Do you lube the new chain if so you ride bike for a few miles then once is hot you lube or you don’t lube at all. Also if new chain and sprocket I’m guessing maintenance will be every 300 miles or so for been new correct
I clean and lube the chains between each track day. If we are riding or racing for two days I will lube in between the days. The tension is checked before each weekend as well. For street riding I would suggest taking a quick look at the chain tension before you jump on the bike every once in a while. Most of the stretch will happen when the chain is new so make sure to check it more frequently when the chain is new. - Van
Do you know why Honda allows a slight free play in the front sprocket of some of their bikes like 01 VFR 800 and what happens if you fix the sprocket by adding washers. Thank you P.S. The VFR is single sided.
I just got a DID gold chain, but my link seems different, there are no rings or grease in the pack, it seems to have a clip that holds the outer plate on, is this just another way they do them? I will buy some grease to be safe, I also wonder to I still flare the heads of the pins on this type of fitment? all vids I've seen are the same as in this video, kind of worrying lol
my 2002 gsxr 750 owners manual says tention on my chain should be 0.8-1.2 inch. RIght now my stocl chain is about as loose as you have it set in your video. I dont ride track so should I set my new chain at the recomended chain tension? Also, I noticed that my chain on the bottom of the chain does touch my frame and when I get on the throttle my rear tire seems to spin like it s doing a burn out coming off of 1st gear. Could this have anyting to do with my chain being so loose?
great tutorial.... very helpful, tho I have a Question, I own a gsxr 750 '07 and it keeps burning out the regulators(3) since its between the radiator and the muffler (I figure "to hot"), is it convinient to replace it somewhere else?
So I bought a sprocket kit with chain and in the beginning, everything worked out fine until my chain started to bounce and make a knocking noise, everything was torqued to spec and slack was exact OEM and everything was replaced. Originally my front sprocket was text facing out and then I noticed one side was slighty thicker than the other side so I was like why not flip it, so I did and the chain became normal as it should. Should I be concerned about anything with that front sprocket like that?
It is hard to accurately diagnose an issue via TH-cam comments. When installing the front sprocket you need to make sure the spacing at the inside edge of the sprocket on the counter shaft in relation to the engine case is the same as it was with the OEM sprocket. The best way to do this is to place the OEM sprocket on a flat surface with the engine facing side on the flat surface then place the new sprocket on the same surface to see which side (assuming one side of the new sprocket has a shoulder while the other does not) of the sprocket will need to face the engine on the bike while maintaining the same spacing. Hopefully this helps. - Van
Dunno if anyone cares but if you're bored like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my girlfriend lately =)
Hello there, How many max foot pounds do you recommend when purchasing an impact gun? For this job I attemped to do it with a breaker bar but I was unsucessful. Your help would be appreciated thanks dude...
Great vid.. I have just three questions, First, when you use the hammer, are you sure it is not necessary to bend other side of the bolt? what is the most important in this operation? Two, what kind of product do you use on the "silent block" on the rear wheel I'm french so I don't understand well wath you say "glue" or "lube"? Anyway what is the purpose of this operation? I understand "to don't lose them" but how can you lose them? three, you don't use a torque wrench. Do you consider that useless? thanks
I got a Question I need to replace my Bike Chain, So I took a look at the linkage where it locks together and I noticed the Following Numbers 520 and then X501 or X S01. I know that the Chain is a 520 but the X ?
Can we get a power commander install how to? I'm running a muffler box removal kit, servo buddy, smog block offs, and a slip on with a K&N non race filter. I'm guessing with that amount of tweaks I'm going to benefit from a power commander V on a 2013 R6
i have a stock chain on my zx9r which is 110 link with standard sprockets 16 and 41 teeth, if i upgrade my rear sproket to one which has 44 teeth am i going to need to buy a longer chain to fit it? am thinking a bigger sprocket will require a longer chain? thanks john,
Hi I've changed the front sprocket and tightened the nut to correct torque as your vid shows, but my new sprocket seems to have forward and side way play on the spline, is this normal ?
Do you guys clean your bikes before your videos? They look like they've never been used. If you guys do, you should make a video on how you guys clean them.
I am super late, but just wanted to thank you for all of your videos over the years. The content of the videos - how you explain what you are doing, why you are doing it, showing each step, recommendations you might have, tips/tricks, how you stress important points, etc. is outstanding! And it's all valuable and not filled with fluff or unrelated information like so many others. You've taught me a lot and have saved me time, money, and frustration over the years. Thank you so much!
You are more than welcome! Thank you for watching and the kind words. - Van
Brian Van is the man, best teacher I love how these videos are so detailed nothings is missed can't wait to start the bike build, I'm gonna be ordering a few parts from the website.
Happy to help my man, thank you for the kind words! - Van
I don’t mean any disrespect, I love your videos and your content is top notch. But I am always amazed when watching, just how clean your hands are
Gojo Supro Max heand cleaner is the best. - Van
Thanks so much, very informative video, never took the back tire off a bike before, have a 2004 Kawasaki Ninja ZX10R with 56,000.00. I am sure that this was the first time anyone has ever done this to the bike, but this video and I got the job done. Bike runs better than ever, didn't even need the extra link. Bike feels like I just got it back from dealer... thank you..
after watching this video i feel happy to change the chain and sprockets on my 2004 R1, thanks for the video
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
Any new jobs to do then Brian your vids are always fist point of call. Excellent as always. Just the right amount of detail and so professionally paced and discussed. super job. Just have to do it now 🙂
Thank you for watching and for the kind words! - Van
Love the bike, just rode it again last weekend and it is really coming along nicely. Got the suspension dialed in and it handles awesome. Heading to Mid Ohio next Monday with it.
Thanks for the feedback and support! ~Aubrey
This was an awesome run through. I think I understood most parts except the final touch on the chain after lubing. Might have to watch that part again but great videos man.
Thank you for watching! - Van
I am glad you like the videos,. enjoy doing them for sure. We will work some riding tips and techniques in later this season.
I can't believe this dude is in the state up north. He's so informative. Let's try to get him to move to Ohio.
Thank you for watching! - Van
Great video. Just did a Driven 520 conversion kit two days ago. Used this video for pointers at several spots, but it definitely helped. Thanks for great tips.
Such a beautiful bike and great tools!! A guy can only dream to work in a shop like this!
You should be able to see the wear and/or notice some slippage in the chain/sprocket. I recommend changing both at the same time so they will wear together. ~Aubrey
besides the 900 ft pound impact gun being used to torque... it was a good video. Guy talks a little too much but his videos are top notch.
Excellent job man,I appreciate watching this video.
No worries, thanks for watching! - Van
I love all these tutorials, I just started doing motovlogs lol but eventually I want to move toward bike work.
The wheel alignment is managed using the marks on the swing arm when I am setting the tension on the chain.
This dude is helpful as hell, right!
Thanks for the kind words man! Glad I was able to help you out!
Seriously. I love his videos , always so straight forward.
that is great to hear, I will be glad to watch it, oh, I apologize I miss spelled your name. I am planning to purchase a R1 as soon as I redeploy and can't wait to make similar mods to it. I'll keep it street version but with a few mods for performance.
GREAT VIDEO ON DOING A CHAIN!..i have done it with a grinder now im gonna buy the breaker tool..thank STG....
These videos are great. Very thorough.
Thank you so much!
12 O'clockLabs SpeedoDRD - adjusts the spedometer in a - or + way depending on how you change your gearing. Also has some other cool features.
Yes, it is a rivet style that comes with the chain. However, you could get the clip style if you choose. ~Aubrey
I’ve heard clips being easier but what’s your opinion will it break easily ? Have you used it in the past where it was a problem ?
Can you please make a video on a How To replace the clutch plates on a R1 or R6? I loved this video was very simple to follow. I know there are other videos on a DYI full clutch replacement but would love to see how you do it and explain it 🙌🏼
Bryan your AWSOME MAN!! Love all your videos! Thanks for all you help!
Super video, really pedagogical explanation of things from Sportbike drillmaster sergeant!
Nice Vid, just a little tip, if you don't have impact or air tools then use the back brake to hold the rear wheel, it's better than throwing stuff in the back wheel and possibly cause some damage to paint - I got a detailed Video on my Hayabusa change to show how it's done.
Thanks
Mr B.
@Mitch- I cannot reply to your review direct if you don't your Google Plus linked with TH-cam. Either way, the X likely stands for the ring type, meaning that it is a high performance x-ring chain. This will probably vary on the brand, etc. ~Aubrey
Im working with sport bikes to, now what I see here is profesional, he works whitout gloves, thats cool :D
Looks pretty simple. Thanks for the tut
+Juan Perez Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. You have a link to that silicone?
You are welcome, here is a link to that on our site: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/ - Van
On a cb500x 2019, you DON'T have to break the master link ( aka completely break apart your chain) if you're not replacing the chain and are trying to replace the rear sprocket.
After loosening the axle bolt's nut on the right side and loosening the chain-tension locking nuts ( one on each side) that will enable you to slide the entire wheel forward enough to loose enough chain tension. Remove the axle bolt ( 11 ish inches long ), and you'll need to kind of faniggle with the rear brake assembly lifting it at a small angle as you're working on sliding towards you ( to the rear) the wheel as the while you're able to remove the chain from the rear wheel's sprocket little by little.
When you're ready to reinstall the rear wheel, as you're feeding/putting the chain on the sprocket, start from the top, otherwise you won't be able to get it on as their is an L shaped ( kinda) piece that is welded to the swingarm frame on the left side that gets in the way otherwise.
I just finished my project of going from front/rear of 15 tooth/41 tooth stock sprockets, to 16t/40t sprockets ( I wanted lower rpms at the 60+ mph range for slightly better mpg as mpg starts kind of tanking beyond the 4300 rpm range...., about halfway mark of rpm).
Remember these torque values, per honda themselves:
Rear sprocket nuts ...85 foot pounds of torque/pound feet of torque
Rear axle nut ( on the right side )...65
Chain adjusting lock nut ..one per side of the bike = 20 ( it's the 12mm nut...the 10mm is for moving that long adjusting screw it is hard-attached to that literally presses against the square metal faceplate that the 11 ish inch long axle/bolt goes through)
My bike has barely cleared the 3k miles mark and I have been riding it very gently/easily ( never been above 70mph and don't hamfist the throttle trying to beat everyone 0-60mph either..I want my vehicles to truly last). Thus for me, changing out the front sprocket and rear sprocket without replacing the chain is really not much of a wear-n -tear risk to the chain. I changed the front sprocket bearly 400 miles from changing, today, the rear
stock = 15t front, 41t rear
mine = 16t front, 40t rear
I wanted alittle lower rpm at the 60+ mph range for slightly better gas mileage as gas mileage on this bike begins to dip more noticeably at above the 4300 rpm range ( love my 75+ mpg).
Hope this helped someone. I imagine most of this is similar for the 2013 through 2020 models with possibly some minor differences.
Contact honda power sports or google a service manual if you can to confirm the correct torque specs for your make and model bike.
As long as the chain has enough links to accommodate the sprocket combo you plan to use and is in good shape the chain does not need to be broken. This video focuses on replacing the chain kit installing a lighter 520 chain and modifying the gearing just a bit. - Van
hey Bryan, I am a huge fan of your videos: they are very informative and professional. I am currently stationed in Germany and I am looking forward to become a track rider. I would really like to see a video on tips and techniques that you use at the track... It might sound a bit weird for me to ask that but you certainly inspire me with your videos.. too bad I'm about to deploy that doesn't mean I won't continue to follow your videos. BTW, don't mind my TH-cam name, I'm a MotoVlogger.
I'm drooling over you're snap-on drill.
We also sell the Healtech speedo healer on our website for adjusting the speedometer. ~Aubrey
Sportbike Track Gear the 2014 Yamaha r1 needs the speedo healer ?
Thanks what I need to see was at 7:26. I'm fixing my bike soon!
Any tips/tricks to align i.e.: when is alignment right when is it wrong Thanks, always check out the videos
good video. As a gauge on how much to tighten the link i just use the link next to it to eyeball how it is and match it. ofc use.comon sense and general know how.. You might have added to clean and regrease the axel. might have just missed that from my end.
Do u have a video on how to setup the speedo healer? Great video. I got a brand new gsxr 1000 when should I change the sprocket and chain?
great tutorial..well done guys
Thank you for the feedback and watching Dominik Knapik! ~Aubrey
Thanks for the tutorial! Very detailed and informative. So I should be good with the same length of Chain if I go one tooth down for the front and 1 up in the back right? And if I order the chain and sprocket kit, I shouldnt have to change the length of the chain that comes in the kit? Thanks!
That change should work with the same size chain as long as you are not already to one extreme or the other in the chain adjustment. If you do not want to cut the chain go with one of the Vortex chain kits as they come cut to length. The Driven/RK Chain kits are also ready to go. The custom 520 kits we sell on the site will come with a 120 length chain and need to be cut. - Van
@Sport Bike Track Gear I just bought a 520 Driven sprocket kit with the RK Max X chain that's recommended off of the STG website, and I had to take off 3 links as of 7-27-22 for my '15 R6
I love your videos do you have video on how to do valve adjustment on 09-14 r1
Easy to follow and very informative! Looks pretty easy to do, I'm going to hae to check out your website, thanks!
Thank you for the feedback Chris, much appreciated! Let us know if we can help with anything else. ~Aubrey
Love your vids I can watch them all day. Btw Where can I get one of your stg stickers I would slap one on my bikes
We include a couple of STG Stickers with each order as well as a copy of Roadracing World Magazine. If you want a couple stickers and do not need anything now please email tony@sportbiketrackgear.com and tell him I sent you. - Van
Should be, but this one should be a little nicer quality and updated. Thanks! ~Aubrey
Excellent video. Many Thanks Brian.
Thanks, I have to ask. So IT IS okay to have the letterings facing inwards thus making the front sprocket "backwords" so long as the chain alignment is okay? when I flip mine around it slides way to far into the bike.
Yes that is 100% ok. Some applications require the front sprocket to be installed with the lettering facing the bike to get the proper spacing for chain alignment. - Van
Thanks! Appreciate the feedback. ~Aubrey
Excellent video, thank you for making it. By the way, what type of lube/wax can I use to lube the master link, if I am missing that little stock grease packet?
Hey Bryan do you see any benefit to adding a aftermarket chain adjuster to your track bike I think LighTech would look good on the bike plus when I win the bike I won't have to add one.
The new sprocket without the damper is that a problem? Are u going to get a bunch of vibrations now
Zero issues, good to go. - Van
Great video. Good job on the swap, nice tips to remember. I only seen one small problem: the chain tension adjustment looked a bit on the loose side. New chains will stretch quickly, and require re-adjustment a few times. I like to start with less chain slack. Every bike is different, but my bike seems to like 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" slack. My Owners Manual says do not ride the bike if it has 2" or more chain slack. I ride street only, so I am more concerned with safety and long lifespan. 530 chains may be heavier, but they last longer. This is important to me.
Thank you for watching and giving your feedback! Chain slack is always a continuous debate because it really boils down to riding style and preference. For the track, this is pretty much what Brian likes it at, but that doesn't mean it is right for the street rider or anyone else. Thanks again! ~Aubrey
He explains in the video that it allows for suspension movement -- which can often slightly change sprocket-distance during riding -- which is the primary reason for any 'slack' in the chain. (Try putting a stand under the front of your bike, and have a friend closely measure the axle-center distance with the bike at rest, then as you lift up on the rear [to represent the lift as you brake hard or crest a hill], and then with you sitting on the bike, and then with added weight on the bike [to represent compression of bottoming a low point or hard-cornering]. Compare all these measurements to see how much change occurs.
Remember, the center of the drive sprocket does not have the same 'center' as the pivot of the swing-arm. So the 'geometry' will naturally not be the same arch-length.
Of course, the chain tension should be checked frequently! Any chain that is under the stretching tension of 150+ HP, under constant changes, and the 'snap' torque of full power gear changes, IS going to stretch!
what silicone did Brian use when "gluing" the rubber sprocket damper thingy?
Great video, thanks a lot for this really good how-to.
That's the way all how-to's should be.
Great video guys, keep up the good work!
I just bought the jumbo motion pro tool, is it still best to get a seperate chain breaker, like you did?
The jumbo is not bad but I prefer their PBR. End of the day either will get the job done. - Van
I'm a little bit confuse I watch all your videos and I'm looking how you put the front sprocket on some of the bike you stated different sprocket label should face out the others you said her face in I am confused I'm doing my work 2011 Suzuki 1000 with a driven front sprocket the local I face it in to the front shaft rocket On this video you facing out the logo facing out?
When you take the OEM counter shaft sprocket off note which way it was mounted to the shaft. Now lay the sprocket on the table with the side that faced the motor down. Now place the new sprocket on the table next to the OEM one. The new sprocket needs to be the same distance from the table as the OEM. See which side makes that happen and install the sprocket with the side that was down on the table towards the motor. This will keep the driveline spacing even front to rear. - Van
Very good instructions, but it would be useful to mention basic sprocket sizing theory to maximize life of chain and sprockets. Select paired and non-paired (is that even proper english?) sprocket ie. 16 and 43. Chain will wear much more evenly. Obviosly not a big thing for racing, but very useful for those who drive very much.
*correction*
Actually both sprockets should be odd numbered.
Correct term in english appears to be "Hunting tooth gear set", check it out.
Couldn't find this information in my manual so i'll ask here. When installing the new chain did you ensure the tire was pushed more forward or backwards? Or a better understanding of this is where was the position of the markers of how tight or lose the chain is? Thanks
+Harmageddon When you install the new chain it should have the proper chain tension for your model (Google is a great resource). You will use the marks on the swingarm to keep the axle straight. Additionally I like to wedge a wrench in between the chain and sprocket then roll the wheel back to put tension on the chain which forces the axle blocks up against the adjusters. I will then tighten the axle nut while holding the tire to maintain tension. - Van
Nice video. It's time to get a new chain do I have to change my sprockets also?
We recommend doing both at the same time so you have consistent wear between both the chain and sprockets. Thanks! ~Aubrey
Thanks Brian. Great video.
I put grease on the o-rings, but I forgot to grease the pins and inside of the link holes. I haven't riveted the chain yet but I already pressed the plate on. Is there a way to remove the plate so that I can grease the pins and holes and still salvage the master link?
Just use the tool to press the plate off and lube it up then press it back on. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear Coo!. I'll try that. So as long as the pin breaker doesn't put any visual damage on the master pins I can still use the master?
So awesome you guys are based out of Michigan! I can't wait for my first track day, which do you prefer gratton or gingerman?
Grattan for sure, we'll be there next weekend too! ~Aubrey
Do you lube the new chain if so you ride bike for a few miles then once is hot you lube or you don’t lube at all. Also if new chain and sprocket I’m guessing maintenance will be every 300 miles or so for been new correct
I clean and lube the chains between each track day. If we are riding or racing for two days I will lube in between the days. The tension is checked before each weekend as well. For street riding I would suggest taking a quick look at the chain tension before you jump on the bike every once in a while. Most of the stretch will happen when the chain is new so make sure to check it more frequently when the chain is new. - Van
When you make changes to the Sprocket size do you need to make adjustments to the speedometer and odometer?
time for more videos on this thing!
Do you know why Honda allows a slight free play in the front sprocket of some of their bikes like 01 VFR 800 and what happens if you fix the sprocket by adding washers.
Thank you
P.S.
The VFR is single sided.
I just got a DID gold chain, but my link seems different, there are no rings or grease in the pack, it seems to have a clip that holds the outer plate on, is this just another way they do them? I will buy some grease to be safe, I also wonder to I still flare the heads of the pins on this type of fitment? all vids I've seen are the same as in this video, kind of worrying lol
What size chain/sprocket size should i use on my 2006 R1 yamaha? What brand is the cheap and best? The stock seem bit expensive.
my 2002 gsxr 750 owners manual says tention on my chain should be 0.8-1.2 inch. RIght now my stocl chain is about as loose as you have it set in your video. I dont ride track so should I set my new chain at the recomended chain tension? Also, I noticed that my chain on the bottom of the chain does touch my frame and when I get on the throttle my rear tire seems to spin like it s doing a burn out coming off of 1st gear. Could this have anyting to do with my chain being so loose?
great tutorial.... very helpful, tho I have a Question, I own a gsxr 750 '07 and it keeps burning out the regulators(3) since its between the radiator and the muffler (I figure "to hot"), is it convinient to replace it somewhere else?
I was in the sam boat as you. Get a L bracket and place to the left. Ricks also makes a great R/R too.
What kind of lube was that used on the master link?
Very detailed video..Keep it coming..
Isnt it bad to torque the front sprocket on with it in gear ? Or is that only on removal ? I dont wanna harm the transmission ! :P
Normal advice is to use the rear brake and ensure the motorbike is in neutral.
So I bought a sprocket kit with chain and in the beginning, everything worked out fine until my chain started to bounce and make a knocking noise, everything was torqued to spec and slack was exact OEM and everything was replaced. Originally my front sprocket was text facing out and then I noticed one side was slighty thicker than the other side so I was like why not flip it, so I did and the chain became normal as it should. Should I be concerned about anything with that front sprocket like that?
It is hard to accurately diagnose an issue via TH-cam comments. When installing the front sprocket you need to make sure the spacing at the inside edge of the sprocket on the counter shaft in relation to the engine case is the same as it was with the OEM sprocket. The best way to do this is to place the OEM sprocket on a flat surface with the engine facing side on the flat surface then place the new sprocket on the same surface to see which side (assuming one side of the new sprocket has a shoulder while the other does not) of the sprocket will need to face the engine on the bike while maintaining the same spacing.
Hopefully this helps. - Van
this guy knows his shit
Dunno if anyone cares but if you're bored like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my girlfriend lately =)
@Darian Alejandro Yea, been watching on instaflixxer for years myself :)
@Darian Alejandro Yup, have been using instaflixxer for years myself :D
Great video, you helped me alot.
Thanks for a great video...very helpful!
I'm kinda new to all this but what benefits does one get from the replacement of the stock chain and sprockets?
The drive gear doesn't need to be torqued?
Thanks, a lot of useful information! Great video.
Hello there, How many max foot pounds do you recommend when purchasing an impact gun? For this job I attemped to do it with a breaker bar but I was unsucessful. Your help would be appreciated thanks dude...
u have anything on ZX6R? about the chain on how strong i should get it?
Hey Bro. Always dig the vids. Do you like the new R1?
you are the best my friend.
you can never have too many friends! Thanks for watching - Brian Van
Great vid..
I have just three questions,
First, when you use the hammer, are you sure it is not necessary to bend other side of the bolt? what is the most important in this operation?
Two, what kind of product do you use on the "silent block" on the rear wheel I'm french so I don't understand well wath you say "glue" or "lube"? Anyway what is the purpose of this operation? I understand "to don't lose them" but how can you lose them?
three, you don't use a torque wrench. Do you consider that useless?
thanks
Does the ERV3 only come with the rivet link? No clip type master?
I got a Question I need to replace my Bike Chain, So I took a look at the linkage where it locks
together and I noticed the Following Numbers 520 and then X501 or X S01. I know that the
Chain is a 520 but the X ?
Can we get a power commander install how to? I'm running a muffler box removal kit, servo buddy, smog block offs, and a slip on with a K&N non race filter. I'm guessing with that amount of tweaks I'm going to benefit from a power commander V on a 2013 R6
Our Marketing guy is putting one on his bike soon so I will be sure it makes it on the page!
+Sportbike Track Gear sweet I'll stay tuned
What about wheel alignment when installing rear wheel?
i have a stock chain on my zx9r which is 110 link with standard sprockets 16 and 41 teeth, if i upgrade my rear sproket to one which has 44 teeth am i going to need to buy a longer chain to fit it? am thinking a bigger sprocket will require a longer chain? thanks john,
What did u end up installing on your 9r? I have a 99 and need sprockrts and chain. Did u install all oem?
Totally unrelated, but I have been wondering what is the make and model of that stainless steel toolbox in the background?
+BloodySinner Not sure the Model but it is a Snap-On Box.
hey where at in Michigan are you located? I'm moving up there on December 15 2016
Do you have a link web address for those rivet tools?
thanks man, awesome tips
You are welcome and thanks for watching! - Van
Hi
I've changed the front sprocket and tightened the nut to correct torque as your vid shows, but my new sprocket seems to have forward and side way play on the spline, is this normal ?
+Andrew Penson No this is not normal and it sounds like you have a spacing issue. Perhaps a missing spacer? - Van
Should I torque everything to spec or just use my electric impact? Didn't know if I'd over tighten it.
I would tighten to spec to be safe. ~Aubrey
Do you guys clean your bikes before your videos? They look like they've never been used. If you guys do, you should make a video on how you guys clean them.
We do try to keep them clean for sure. I can't tell you how many times we are wiping them down before we start shooting the video. - Van
Thank you.. really appreciate the help!!!
+Mr AftermathmotoFZ Thanks for watching!