I really like that you talk about safety in your videos, thank you! It really is important to remind people out there that are learning from you about safety. The exact thing that you talk about being careful to not slip and hit your head with a large breaker bar is a real thing that can happen and did happen to me just a couple weeks ago which left a gash above my right eye and landed me in the urgent care for some stitches! Pretty embarrassing really...I’m a full time mechanic and even with years of experience torquing up large nuts and bolts accidents can still happen when making poor decisions about safety. In my case I needed a second person to hold the backup wrench but decided to do it alone thinking I would save time and get the job done quicker. Boy was I wrong! I knew the safer way to work but chose not to do it and paid the price. So again thank you for your videos (I really like you Chanel, top notch!) and reminding people about safety. No one should ever have to leave a job injured or in pain. I post this in the hope that it helps at least one person remember to work safe and have fun too :)
Wise words well said Jason, And thank you for sharing your experience, its so easy to take a tiny risk for just a second in a busy day and then it all goes south... at least you only suffered a small gash, and a story to tell aye.. Thank you for your support, take care and have a great week my friend.... Del.
There is something deeply satisfying from seeing a brand new sprocket set and chain... not to mention perfect rivets - not seen many that neat looking, even when brand new! This bike is loving the attention - she's not been properly cared for previously and now she's getting the spa weekend delux with all boxes ticked. Couldn't quite believe my eyes when I saw that front sprocket. Just goes to show the value of a strip down and rebuild. One day I would love to give my '98 VFR800 the full treatment..
Brilliant. I'll be changing the chain and sprocket on the CBR soon, I've got the tools, and now I've got the knowledge! Thanks Delboy you are a diamond 👍🏼
Hey Del another great video. Great reminder to give any bike you buy the once over, and check the chain,, sprockets tires etc. As you don`t know who had the bike before and as you have shown us, you don`t know what changes they have made.
Great video once again, learning a lot. I don't have the trust in my own ability to try these jobs myself but I thoroughly enjoyed watching you do the work
Amigo, respondiendo a tu comentario anterior si estoy siguiendo fervientemente esta serie, vi completa las serie de la streetfighter y es fantástico tu trabajo y tu conocimiento, eres mi admiración, saludos
I am not a mechanic but I do have good mechanical knowledge, I can strip basic engines, my Kawasaki z500b1 was stripped every winter shims checked etc. I am a skilled sheet worker, your fab vids are great, I work in a world of Cad and plasma cutters but hammers thankfully are still hammers lol Bending, rolling, forming and welding, tools of the trade, skills fading away, soon to be lost! We don't have apprenticeships these days.
Hey, it's me with the 600er SRAD again - I have that same recurring nightmare with that see you next tuesday nut coming loose, no matter who torques it down with what wrench. Keep an eye on that one, Del, trust but verify it stays put on yours. Thanks for another quality upload :)
Thats a common concern Abel, it's properly torqued up now, and once the new lock plate arrives, ill be fitting that to exact spec, and with threadlock too.. The other thing is, its only 4 screws to drop the cover off your front sprocket, so you can check it once every few months and also clean out the chain wax in there too.... there's more to maintenance that just checking tyre pressures aye mate... lol!
Nice one Del. That sprocket nut was nice & tight eh!!!! Been there with the stuck ones as well, right of passage for us methinks. Awrabest to you both from all here. 😉💙🤘
Hi Keith, yeah i recon you're right.. perhaps someone thought it needed to be 'turned' out rather then just lifted out... either way, ordered a new one and ill pop it in later.. Hope you had a good weekend mate..
To tight the chain, you loosen the axle nut, then loosen the screw on both sides (the front nut on the adjusting screws) and then just back it out with a wrench on the chain side first and then just match the notches on the other side and then tighten them back, tight axle nut and done? I've been doing a little bit of wheelies and it tends loosen the chain a tad over time... I will adjust it soon cuz it's at about 1 1/4 inch and I want 1 inch.
Del, as always, super helpful video my friend, really awesome. Thank you. By the way (and forgive me if this has been mentioned in comments already), that thing you're referring to as a lock nut on the outside of the nut/washer of the front sprocket is actually the speedometer sensor. I had an 01 GSX-R 750 race bike and when I purchased the bike, speedo did not work, and in my case that speed sensor rotor (the part slightly damaged on your bike) was completely sheered ... nothing left of it really ... hosed up so badly that I didn't recognize there should even be a part there. No idea how such a think could have happened. Fun project. :)
Sure thing Donald, it does actually both jobs of the speedo sensor as you say, but it also serves to hold the nut on as well... as you can see there's no lock tab washer behind the nut on this engine and the sensor disc extends out past the end of the shaft to provide a flange for the nut to stop against if it comes under.. much like mine did, I dread to think what would have happened if the disc had not been there... cheers buddy, thanks, as always, for your support! Have a great weekend...!
Wow man that sprocket / spline situation could have been BAD. Sad I didn’t get to see you tear down to replace the driveshaft, but glad you didn’t have to.
I've commented before about how much help you are and how much I love watching and learning from you. tbh I'd love to help you around your shop, when you say things like "can't do that on my own" even though you never need another help, you always manage to find the best way solo option, I'd still love to just give you a hand, it'd be like doing mechanics with my dad again :) Hehe
Hi del just wanted to point out the washer with the four lugs on ,is not a locking plate, it to do with the speedo pick up if you look at the sprocket casing you will see the sensor, and not good to use copper grease on locking nuts Loctite blue better cheers mark
Yeah, could have maybe expanded on that Mark, but im always fighting to not waffle on in too much detail... the plate does both jobs.. there is no fold-over-tab on these, and the plate covers the big nut to prevent it winding itself off if someone forgot to do it up..(Like on this bike) as you saw, it did its job for sure, you saw it was tight and secure, the nut was never going to actually come off..... and yeah, you're right, those 4 blocks cast into it are counted by the speedo sensor... ive had a few people ask what the blocks are for.. so ill cover it when the new one arrives and i install it mate..!
Ah... a sunny morning at home, a cup of coffee and a new CBG vid. Well done as always... hope you are not getting swelled heads from the positive feedback. And as always I have to stop myself from rushing out to buy whatever tools I see you using.
Working on bikes,cars or any machinery’s you can never have enough tools,one little tool that you never use from one year to the next can save you so much time and money,it’s just remembering where you put it hahahahaha
One thing I did have to deal with was a stuck front sprocket,it wouldn't budge and i didnt think a hammer and crowbar was the correct way to go, there are 2 threaded holes in the sprocket that can be used as an extractor, 2 of the bolts that secure the sprocket cover can be wound in evenly to push the sprocket off. Came off a treat. Gee
I first noticed it when I took the wheel out so I know it's nothing I have done while changing the chain etc, wheel alignment was done with digital vernier as you did. I cleaned the bike before I went out today and wheel turns freely, pressing the pedal stops the wheel and releases when released, I am sure I don't ride the brake. What's annoying is it was serviced in Jan, collected and dropped off so not ridden until yesterday and today, no mention of brake issues. Mot was Oct, I don't remember seeing blue on the rotor. It had new pads only! About 1000 miles ago Riding yesterday and today 2 up I didn't notice any brake fade but if this one of those gradual issues could it point to a worn rotor or contaminated pads I cleaned the rotor with a very powerful solvent cleaner but haven't looked at pads. On return from a day out today the back wheel on the brake side is thick with grey dust! Any help will be greatly appreciated. Regards Gee
OK, an abundance of grey dust could indicate the pads are wearing a lot more than normal, i guess that's pretty obvious, you said the wheel turns freely, so it doesn't sound like it's binding obtrusively, but just as a test, take the bike for a short ride, only needs to be maybe a few miles... and for the whole ride, DON'T touch the back brake at all.... then as soon as you arrive home, jump off and feel how warm the brake disc it.. it should be stone cold if you haven touched it... it only needs to be binding a tiny bit and it just gets slowly hotter and hotter and will start to cook... This may have cooked the pads too which may be why they are dusting up so much.. you can measure the thickness of the disc if you have a measuring caliper or micrometer, and the minimum thickness will be noted in your handbook. ! i had a similar problem a long while ago on a Honda Blackbird.. nothing would improve the back brake it was horrible. woolly and vague, and scorched.. in the end, i replaced the disc, the pads and the caliper seals.. Problem solved and the brake was perfect again.! but do that test ride first and see if the disc gets hot without even touching it... then you'll have an idea if it's binding.!
Thanks for the detailed videos, I am changing the chain and sprockets on my gsx1250fa, your tip on something so simple like chocking the wheel to remove the front sprocket nut is a great tip and grinding the chain pin to make the extraction easier, these tips are making the whole job so much easier. While I am doing this I have ordered lowering dog bones, will I need to drop the front end and get a shorter side stand? Regards Gee
On your lowering, it depends how much you're going down by, an inch is ok, any more and you may wish to lower the front to level out, just see how it feels and the same with the sidestand, see how the bike rests on it's sidestand and you'll soon see if you need to shorten! Thanks for your kind words on the videos!
As per most other a great and informative vid , good warning about tightening had a few black eyes over the years myself keep up the good work looking forward to the next. ps not sure about the nail varnish colour
Hi Harold.. Ha ha, thanks buddy, im keen to get stuck into the creative and interesting part of this build... so jjst getting stuck in aye... Hope you had a good Holiday weekend... take care and keep in touch... Del.
As always another superb video. I really wish I had removed my final drive sprocket from my engine before I removed it. Injured myself numerous times working on the bike and yes, footpegs vs hands do not mix lol
Having an engineering background, albeit electrical, I really enjoy the attention and emphasis you provide on the Torque topic. Wondering what your thoughts on digital torque wrenches are.
Hi Dell, I like the chain tool, it seems less cumbersome than the Sealey one. Shame you don't work part time so you could spend more time with your TH-cam channel. Looking forward to the weekend. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks Andy, it is beefier, but simpler too, great little investment... and yeah, all we reap in goes on the projects and equipment for the videos... so life is still supported by the day job.. someday maybe mate.. keep pedaling aye.
I've got the same click issue , just changed my rubber cush drives the wheel hub bearing seemed good now it's very slight compared to older cush drives but still there. Only 7600 miles seems weird. I'm thinking countershaft bearing is bad? Have you figured your's out yet? TIA
@bandr no need to say sorry. I wasn't offended or any of that. I'm just reliving the nightmare I had with my bike. Just as neglected and the internals needed a lot of work. Hence my question. 👍😁
Good day Mr. Del. Your videos are so detailed.And I like that the camera angles don't lose anything. Very good quality. Would you mind letting me know the name and possibly part number for the chain riveting tool you used on the hayabusa. Thank you very much for any information.
Thank you for your kind words, glad the video can help.... here's a direct link to the tool we used: www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/motorcycle-chain-splitter-and-riveting-tool-set-heavy-duty-119022?search=smc4&description=true
You got lucky there, no damage to the transmission shaft. If the lockwasher was tight but the retaining nut on the sprocket was loose then maybe the retaining nut was not stock and was too thin for the retaining plate to stop the retaining nut from unscrewing ?
The nut fits flush to the end of the shaft, (in order for it to lock on the thread), and the lock plate sits proud of the end of that shaft.. so there is a gap... the lock plate also fits into the end of the shaft to locate it... Its all factory buddy.. just wasn't torqued up i guess.!
Front Sprock looks diff these days. My last one I fitted a JT didnt have those what looks like counter weights attached. You didnt show link removal from new chain which I believe comes with more links then required. Like the new tool definitely better then the Motion Pro kit that I had, Like the splayed recess on pin taking the guess work out of how much to splay them. Excellent teaching vid as usual. WTG.
This new front sprocket was a JT also, and those things on it are hard rubber.. same as the factory sprockets, act like a damper.. The chain came the exact length, no need to remove any, and yeah.. the flaring tool has the outside wall of that recess at exactly 6.0mm, so all you do is force it all the way over until it grounds against the plate...and bingo, perfect 6mm flare.!
What's the saying? Curse once when buying the right tool for the job or curse every time you use a cheap tool for the job! Not calling the other tool cheap, just sometimes when buying a tool that does more, usually means it does most things OK rather than one thing great! Cheers
Exactly that mate... The other kit i have for chain riveting is great, and will covers chains from tiny little model drive chains and small bicycles.. but on heavy duty motorcycle chains it's right out at the top edge of its performance range...and thats always gonna wear it out quick.... This tool is really beefy and solid.. will last me years i recon.
Hi Del, Thanks for making all of the great and useful videos. I just had a quick question. On my 2005 Hayabusa what is the best chain lube for dry riding? Thank you for your help!!
My gen1 with 7600 miles has a click sound can actually feel it from countershaft area if engine braking then it happens on taking off from complete stop. I just replaced the cush drives feels 50% better quieter but still there, hub bearing seemed fine. Would a worn counter sprocket or shaft do this. I got the bike with only 1000 miles and the chain was way way to tight zero slack and I'm thinking that wore something out. TIA
Thanks for all the tips again and that chain tool looks wicked. Good investment. I'm really loving the chilled music you've featured in these videos and that last quote is the no icing on the cake, I don't like icing but everyone loves cake, vegan carrot cake's the best ever =P Always so positive, nice one. Take care.
Glad you're enjoying the music Johny, we're really lucky to have been able to use the music of some amazing musicians, they really add an ambience to the videos, links always under the videos, so often you can go to the link and download the music too!
Been watching all your vids on this project ... given the amount of rusty things you have run across and where the rust is being found... I would think this bike has been at lease partially submerged. Not that it matters, of course. Good thing you had the sense and wherewithal to replace all the bits! Was wondering if you know any history on this bike - BTW - Great vids and Thanks!
On the subject of nuts suddenly breaking free, I remember once undoing a lock nut on a track rod end on a car, tight as they usually are, using heat and all sorts trying to get the bastard thing free. Anyway it did after a good 20 minute battle and my elbow shot straight into the pit floor (concrete) as you can imagine it wasn't exactly one of my best experiences - certainly memorable though! Great vid btw Del, haven't been watching you guys for long, but I've learned plenty. Cheers, Louis.
Hi Louise, Blimey, that sounds painful mate, injuries heal slower the older you get too aye..lol! Thanks for sharing and really appreciate your support.. have a good week.. Del.
Hi there Del, yes as I say it wasn't pleasant but its easily done as I'm sure you know! Haha I've got that part to look forward too. No problem, you too and most important of all, ride safe. Oh and its Louis!
Little wheel of horrors "feed me Del Boy,feed me" good vid again on how to fix,not like the previous owner had vids on how to tie a horse up('kin cowboy)
Amazing that you didn’t find more extensive damage in the front sprocket assembly, Del. On a related subject and being a long time HD owner, have often pondered whether belts or chains are more efficient for bikes? BTW, I also saw a different seat set up on your Dyna in Duke Dyson’s recent vid? Bloody hot here in Singapore this week! Cheers for being the best darn motorcycle Vlogger around! 🏍👍🏍
Hey Gary, Good to hear from you always.. and envious of your location this week (as usual).. Belts vs Chains is a huge debate.. they argue that chains are for powerful bikes and belts for lazy cruisers.. but i think thats bunkum.. most sports bikes weigh no more then a wet cardboard box.. and a Harley Ultra with a pillion and rider weighs more than mount Fuji// so its not a strength thing.. maybe heat / friction etc?... but TBH, i think they are equally competent ways to transfer motive force to the road.. i like the clean and relatively maintenance free nature of a belt.. but a chain is old school and way cheaper to replace..!! see.. its a two way debate.! Safe travels my friend, enjoy your week.. D&Px
Oh missed your other question... I put the original factory seat back on for longer rides, as the original owner put a Corbin K&Q seat on it from day one..it spent 20 years in a box in the guys attic, came out unmarked and brand new, its superbly comfortable and that classic old school Dyna step style back support is like an arm chair..and Ive actually got ape hangers planned for it too now..lol... all things evolve aye.!
Moonfleet41 ahhh ok! I’ve got 2 seats for my Fatboy as well- the factory original also mostly unused given the low mileage and a bit plumpy-er Mustang seat the other half picked out for pillion comfort! Doh! 👍
Yeah, my thoughts exactly.. the design of the flaring pin makes it not only pretty robust, but also you can;t fail to flare out the end of the chain pin as long as you wind it all the way in..! grease up the threads and i recon this tool will see me out..!
I generally clear away all tools, unnecessary objects and if necessary put an old thick cheap duvet over stuff I might crash into if a socket, spanner, ratchet or bar breaks undoing old big nuts or torquing up new ones. Damage limitation speaking from bitter bloody experience in years gone by.
Hi del, it Would be good to know how much the things you buy cost without having to look it up, that Chan tool looks the business as the one I've got it the thin pin type and it's had the end angle-ground down more times than I can count . Also an update on your other projects would be interesting, whatever happened to the zx7 and the turbo xjr, did I miss a video of you selling them on? It's always good to see what you're up to in the time when I'm not working on my own project. I read a comment asking why you didn't use an endless chain. Clearly from someone who knows nothing about chains and I assume hasn't noticed that the chain passes through the gap between the swing arm and upper brace. It's good to see most of your comments are positive though, you deserve it. Well done.
Hi Andrew.. i did post up the links to all the tools in this video, (well the important one anyway), and yeah, this chunky chain tool is a lot beefier tan the last set i bought, (same as yours by the sound of it)... i never really like to post up a life-and-times type vlog.. i have to sell the bikes when they're finished in order to afford the next one, and often its a sad departure.. specially the turbo bike.. but the ZX-7R Fighter is still with us, its actually away with a vinyl wrap company having a killer graphics design made for it.. and once its done ill be making a video, visiting the place, meeting the guys there and showing how they vinyl wrap bikes and how its printed and made...not just plain colours.. but photo style graphics.. its gonna be awesome.... But the guys very kindly offered to do it for serious mates rates, and i cant push them, it mid season for them now, and they're fitting my bike in between other work.... but once its done, it will be back... and then probably for sale..(sadly)..but we will be working with them on other things too, so lots on that tome come.. Oh, and the Dyna Wide Glide is still mine, plan to keep it, and its done a thousand miles already..!! Thanks for your support mate, really appreciate your kind comments... Del.
New to ur vids del, as always great tips and explanations. U have given me lot more confidence to do more work on my bike. Just one thing i notice ur using a scissor lift. Why not do a little vid of how to correctly use one?
Hi Jonathan... welcome aboard sir, and glad the videos help... i already made a video a while ago on safe operation of a motorcycle lift, many people asked the same question as you as lots of people are buying them now for home use... So here is a link, and hope it helps you mate.. th-cam.com/video/voNak5eqRzg/w-d-xo.html
As the weather is turning crap again I am thinking of rotor and pad swap, the bike is a GSX1250FA 10 years old 21k mileage, I have had it for 3 years. Would you recommend any other parts while I do this? I have watched your Tokico strip down and I can manage that. You promote Wemoto, should I ring them to see if they have the parts? I'm very anal about tyres, brakes and chains, but only being back in biking after 700 year gap to get houses kids etc a lot has changed, hence I seek advice from trusted sources. Regards Gee
That flaring head certainly looks the business . . . must confess to a few mutterings & reaching for the grinder myself; y'know, once you discover that the 'very last one' was indeed 'a squeeze too far'. The only saving grace for ground off links, & other 'chain mistakes' various, is to sharpen the pins & use them as staples to hold things you hate, really, really flat against railway sleepers & telegraph poles etc. They do respond well to extremely prejudicial hammer blows & the sense of satisfaction as the side plate embeds the 'victim' into the fibrous, tar soaked mong of it's final resting place is both sweet & palpable. Back story? . . . I'm not really bitter, just crap at soldering. Lucky with that output shaft; when you think of all the 'grunt' that's been passing through there . . . it's best not to! : ) x
Hi I changed my chain and sprockets a couple of weeks ago using your video as a guide, test rode the bike today and it runs a lot smoother but have noticed the rear brake rotor is blue. The wheel turns freely so I don't think it's a sticking caliper. I need to check the thickness tomorrow, could it be due to the rotor being too thin? I can't think of anything else. any help will be greatly appreciated ta.
OK, blue on the disc is obviously from heat, is it binding when you spin the wheel by hand with it lifted?, are you maybe riding the brake pedal?, and was it blue before you fitted the new chain and sprockets? something must have changed mate, so maybe retrace your steps of the re-assembly and see if you can find anything wrong !
I wonder how people manage to send you plates from Australia. Because in Western Australia at least, if you need to return your plates if you vehicle is unregistered. The only way I can think of to keep the plate is to report it stolen or continue to pay registration for it.
any reason you dont use the split pin type chain link?, ive used them all my life and never had a problem, though ive never had anything bigger than a 1000cc bike
I hope you did not go into work to early mate ;) You're gonna need to put more pink on it now too. I should not have to much issue with the front sprocket, I got meself an impact gun and socket, that should make it much easier.
Check the torque pressure of that impact gun.. specially if its a lithium powered rattle gun, most of them are under 100Nm maximum, and thats barely two thirds of what this sprocket nut needs... can't beat a long bar and a manual torque wrench for me... Good to hear from you buddy, hope life is good.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 It's a powerful beast, I'll be a little shocked if it does not get it off. I've seen them take off rusted on nuts and bolt on cars quite easily.
Hi I’ve been watching your earlier videos on the bandit which you explain great which gave me the confidence to have a go at doing my front and back pads and cleaning callipers and pistons and after stop and pause successfully done a great job with your help.With the amount of videos on the bandit you have done I brought another one to have a go at doing some of the mechanical side to it.Could you give me a steer in the right direction if you can as this bikes been standing for 3 years in the back garden and the clutch pulls in as if it’s leaked the fluid as this happened to mine. I watched your well presented video and thought I could change the clutch cylinder seal but after looking the fluid is full so it can’t be the seal leaking ,could it be the actual clutch in the engine as seized,any help would be appreciated and keep up the great explanatory videos, I understand if you to busy to reply thx for reading and possibly boring you 👍🏻
OK, so you're leaking fluid (onto the ground presumably) but the clutch reservoir is full?... when you pull the lever in, does it open the clutch plates...or just flop in and out loosely..?
Moonfleet41 not leaking fluid because there’s none on the floor but the lever just pulls in as if there’s no pressure in it but wouldn’t now if the clutch plates are moving I can start it but oil pumps out of oil filter because corroded so I think my first step is to put an oil filter on so I can run it a bit .Because it’s been left for 3 years do you think the clutch plates have seized in and I do appreciate you replying thx very much
Hi again buddy, ok, I reckon I know what that is.. 'the fluid is leaking past the seal in the master cylinder'... basically when you pull the lever in, there's a piston inside the master cylinder with a rubber seal round it, that pushes forward, shoves fluid down the line and into the slave cylinder, that pushes the slave cylinder open, forces the rod through the engine and opens the plates... so, If there's fluid on the ground then it's leaking out of the slave cylinder and failing to push the rod, if there is no fluid on the ground, then the piston inside the master cylinder on the bars is simply forcing forward against the fluid, but as the seal is gone, the fluid is just squeezing back past it, and not going down the line... so, Get a re-build kit for the master cylinder, ever so easy mate, am doing a video on it very soon, if you're not sure, so stay tuned for that... and you may as well do the slave cylinder as well while you're at it, then juice it all up and your plates should open nicely... hope that helps buddy, good luck with the project, Del
Moonfleet41 thx for your time and explanation I will be waiting for the video and iPad fully charged so I can do it step by step so if I follow you piece of cake ,thx again mate I do mention you to my mates and tell them how good you are ,👍🏻🤘🏻
No, never used engine flush because it's fundamentally a 'solvent' designed to break down, and dilute, the oil... you'll always get a residue of it left in the engine, which can contaminate your oil, if your oil's really black, go with the secondary change of oil instead!
Moonfleet41 oils not black, it’s just I’ve seen a few TH-cam videos lately and they recommend using it. I was going to play safe and use clean oil run it a few miles then change it again
Don't want to pre-empt you, but will you do a video on valve clearance check?
Would love to see it!!
I really like that you talk about safety in your videos, thank you! It really is important to remind people out there that are learning from you about safety. The exact thing that you talk about being careful to not slip and hit your head with a large breaker bar is a real thing that can happen and did happen to me just a couple weeks ago which left a gash above my right eye and landed me in the urgent care for some stitches! Pretty embarrassing really...I’m a full time mechanic and even with years of experience torquing up large nuts and bolts accidents can still happen when making poor decisions about safety. In my case I needed a second person to hold the backup wrench but decided to do it alone thinking I would save time and get the job done quicker. Boy was I wrong! I knew the safer way to work but chose not to do it and paid the price. So again thank you for your videos (I really like you Chanel, top notch!) and reminding people about safety. No one should ever have to leave a job injured or in pain. I post this in the hope that it helps at least one person remember to work safe and have fun too :)
Wise words well said Jason, And thank you for sharing your experience, its so easy to take a tiny risk for just a second in a busy day and then it all goes south... at least you only suffered a small gash, and a story to tell aye.. Thank you for your support, take care and have a great week my friend.... Del.
its not a lock nut it is for the speedo sensor
the quality of your work is unbelievable - I have total respect for your workmanship. The eventual next owner to your bikes are lucky individuals!
There is something deeply satisfying from seeing a brand new sprocket set and chain... not to mention perfect rivets - not seen many that neat looking, even when brand new! This bike is loving the attention - she's not been properly cared for previously and now she's getting the spa weekend delux with all boxes ticked. Couldn't quite believe my eyes when I saw that front sprocket. Just goes to show the value of a strip down and rebuild. One day I would love to give my '98 VFR800 the full treatment..
Thanks buddy, it has been a bit neglected aye.. soon have it all sorted out though...
Brilliant. I'll be changing the chain and sprocket on the CBR soon, I've got the tools, and now I've got the knowledge! Thanks Delboy you are a diamond 👍🏼
Good luck with it mate, have fun!
Hey Del another great video. Great reminder to give any bike you buy the once over, and check the chain,, sprockets tires etc. As you don`t know who had the bike before and as you have shown us, you don`t know what changes they have made.
Very informative as per usual Del. I’m learning all the time so thank you kind sir 👍
I think I mentioned it before but superb job on explaining and showing what your doing!
Great video once again, learning a lot. I don't have the trust in my own ability to try these jobs myself but I thoroughly enjoyed watching you do the work
Amigo, respondiendo a tu comentario anterior si estoy siguiendo fervientemente esta serie, vi completa las serie de la streetfighter y es fantástico tu trabajo y tu conocimiento, eres mi admiración, saludos
Hola, José. Muchas gracias por tus amables y generosas palabras, es bueno saber de ti y me alegro de que disfrutes los videos.
not going to lie, brake caliper sure is satisfying when you lube everything up and everything slides nice and easy back into it's proper place :D
A lovely shiny new pretty on the back my precious.
Great as usual Del - Thanks.
I am not a mechanic but I do have good mechanical knowledge, I can strip basic engines, my Kawasaki z500b1 was stripped every winter shims checked etc.
I am a skilled sheet worker, your fab vids are great, I work in a world of Cad and plasma cutters but hammers thankfully are still hammers lol
Bending, rolling, forming and welding, tools of the trade, skills fading away, soon to be lost! We don't have apprenticeships these days.
will done "sir Del" thank you for all the info and all the time you gave us
Hey, it's me with the 600er SRAD again - I have that same recurring nightmare with that see you next tuesday nut coming loose, no matter who torques it down with what wrench. Keep an eye on that one, Del, trust but verify it stays put on yours. Thanks for another quality upload :)
Thats a common concern Abel, it's properly torqued up now, and once the new lock plate arrives, ill be fitting that to exact spec, and with threadlock too.. The other thing is, its only 4 screws to drop the cover off your front sprocket, so you can check it once every few months and also clean out the chain wax in there too.... there's more to maintenance that just checking tyre pressures aye mate... lol!
Thanks for the feed back completely understand cheers mate😉😉
Great instruction video and fun to watch. Thanks mate! 👍
Great informative with nice sense of humor and quite creative! Very well done mate
Nice one Del. That sprocket nut was nice & tight eh!!!! Been there with the stuck ones as well, right of passage for us methinks. Awrabest to you both from all here. 😉💙🤘
It looked like that lock washer had been chiselled off. Another thorough job, sir, and it's easy to see why. Great video as always 👍
Hi Keith, yeah i recon you're right.. perhaps someone thought it needed to be 'turned' out rather then just lifted out... either way, ordered a new one and ill pop it in later.. Hope you had a good weekend mate..
To tight the chain, you loosen the axle nut, then loosen the screw on both sides (the front nut on the adjusting screws) and then just back it out with a wrench on the chain side first and then just match the notches on the other side and then tighten them back, tight axle nut and done? I've been doing a little bit of wheelies and it tends loosen the chain a tad over time... I will adjust it soon cuz it's at about 1 1/4 inch and I want 1 inch.
Del, as always, super helpful video my friend, really awesome. Thank you. By the way (and forgive me if this has been mentioned in comments already), that thing you're referring to as a lock nut on the outside of the nut/washer of the front sprocket is actually the speedometer sensor. I had an 01 GSX-R 750 race bike and when I purchased the bike, speedo did not work, and in my case that speed sensor rotor (the part slightly damaged on your bike) was completely sheered ... nothing left of it really ... hosed up so badly that I didn't recognize there should even be a part there. No idea how such a think could have happened. Fun project. :)
Sure thing Donald, it does actually both jobs of the speedo sensor as you say, but it also serves to hold the nut on as well... as you can see there's no lock tab washer behind the nut on this engine and the sensor disc extends out past the end of the shaft to provide a flange for the nut to stop against if it comes under.. much like mine did, I dread to think what would have happened if the disc had not been there... cheers buddy, thanks, as always, for your support! Have a great weekend...!
Great video Del. That chain riveter is a nice bit of kit mate, I think I will have to get me one of them. Penny and you have a good week. Cheers
You too my friend, worthy investment cos it'll last and serve you well!
Awesome video Del. Penny and you Del have A Wonderful Week and Ride Safely.
Hey Paul, great to hear from you brother.. Hope life is good, summer's round the corner at last.. need some sunshine rides aye..
@@Moonfleet41 yesterday the weather was chilly and it rain last night. It's 2:43 a.m. and I'm going to hit the hay
great vid! don't waste your time with the six pots-4 pot radial conversion is the way to go!!
What an awesome Chain Riveter... know whats going on my tool wish list ;)
Wow man that sprocket / spline situation could have been BAD. Sad I didn’t get to see you tear down to replace the driveshaft, but glad you didn’t have to.
Brilliant video as ever Del. Fantastic attention to detail. Great work sir
I've commented before about how much help you are and how much I love watching and learning from you. tbh I'd love to help you around your shop, when you say things like "can't do that on my own" even though you never need another help, you always manage to find the best way solo option, I'd still love to just give you a hand, it'd be like doing mechanics with my dad again :)
Hehe
Thanks buddy, appreciate the kind sentiment!
Hi del just wanted to point out the washer with the four lugs on ,is not a locking plate, it to do with the speedo pick up if you look at the sprocket casing you will see the sensor, and not good to use copper grease on locking nuts Loctite blue better cheers mark
Yeah, could have maybe expanded on that Mark, but im always fighting to not waffle on in too much detail... the plate does both jobs.. there is no fold-over-tab on these, and the plate covers the big nut to prevent it winding itself off if someone forgot to do it up..(Like on this bike) as you saw, it did its job for sure, you saw it was tight and secure, the nut was never going to actually come off..... and yeah, you're right, those 4 blocks cast into it are counted by the speedo sensor... ive had a few people ask what the blocks are for.. so ill cover it when the new one arrives and i install it mate..!
Ah... a sunny morning at home, a cup of coffee and a new CBG vid. Well done as always... hope you are not getting swelled heads from the positive feedback. And as always I have to stop myself from rushing out to buy whatever tools I see you using.
Chain and sprockets have a nice clean silver look now!
Oh yes I think we’ve all been there on the flying release of a massively torqued up nut!!
But there are some biggens there that are only past finger tight and some small ones you go to striping out and back it off half a turn.
Working on bikes,cars or any machinery’s you can never have enough tools,one little tool that you never use from one year to the next can save you so much time and money,it’s just remembering where you put it hahahahaha
Brilliant. Keep em coming Del.
Love the tutorial videos, thank you.
One thing I did have to deal with was a stuck front sprocket,it wouldn't budge and i didnt think a hammer and crowbar was the correct way to go, there are 2 threaded holes in the sprocket that can be used as an extractor, 2 of the bolts that secure the sprocket cover can be wound in evenly to push the sprocket off. Came off a treat. Gee
Awesome video. I wish you make a video for motorcycles with no spark to the plugs. I've seen other videos but you make everything look so easy. Lol.
I’ve been debating silver, black or gold chain on my z800 del. you’ve made my decision-silver it is👍
I first noticed it when I took the wheel out so I know it's nothing I have done while changing the chain etc, wheel alignment was done with digital vernier as you did. I cleaned the bike before I went out today and wheel turns freely, pressing the pedal stops the wheel and releases when released,
I am sure I don't ride the brake.
What's annoying is it was serviced in Jan, collected and dropped off so not ridden until yesterday and today, no mention of brake issues. Mot was Oct, I don't remember seeing blue on the rotor.
It had new pads only! About 1000 miles ago
Riding yesterday and today 2 up I didn't notice any brake fade but if this one of those gradual issues could it point to a worn rotor or contaminated pads
I cleaned the rotor with a very powerful solvent cleaner but haven't looked at pads.
On return from a day out today the back wheel on the brake side is thick with grey dust!
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Regards Gee
OK, an abundance of grey dust could indicate the pads are wearing a lot more than normal, i guess that's pretty obvious, you said the wheel turns freely, so it doesn't sound like it's binding obtrusively, but just as a test, take the bike for a short ride, only needs to be maybe a few miles... and for the whole ride, DON'T touch the back brake at all.... then as soon as you arrive home, jump off and feel how warm the brake disc it.. it should be stone cold if you haven touched it... it only needs to be binding a tiny bit and it just gets slowly hotter and hotter and will start to cook... This may have cooked the pads too which may be why they are dusting up so much.. you can measure the thickness of the disc if you have a measuring caliper or micrometer, and the minimum thickness will be noted in your handbook. ! i had a similar problem a long while ago on a Honda Blackbird.. nothing would improve the back brake it was horrible. woolly and vague, and scorched.. in the end, i replaced the disc, the pads and the caliper seals.. Problem solved and the brake was perfect again.! but do that test ride first and see if the disc gets hot without even touching it... then you'll have an idea if it's binding.!
Irmão parabéns, como sempre seu serviço é exemplar e muito bem executado!
Muito obrigado pelas suas palavras gentis e generosas, meu amigo, é bom ouvir de você.
Thanks for the detailed videos, I am changing the chain and sprockets on my gsx1250fa, your tip on something so simple like chocking the wheel to remove the front sprocket nut is a great tip and grinding the chain pin to make the extraction easier, these tips are making the whole job so much easier. While I am doing this I have ordered lowering dog bones, will I need to drop the front end and get a shorter side stand? Regards Gee
On your lowering, it depends how much you're going down by, an inch is ok, any more and you may wish to lower the front to level out, just see how it feels and the same with the sidestand, see how the bike rests on it's sidestand and you'll soon see if you need to shorten! Thanks for your kind words on the videos!
Another very good video - very informative 👌👍
another great video thank you team delboy !
Yours video's are the best
As per most other a great and informative vid , good warning about tightening had a few black eyes over the years myself keep up the good work looking forward to the next. ps not sure about the nail varnish colour
was good tutorial to walk through. thanks
Hi Del,
You do more before work than I do all day! In my defense I am retired though 😀
Thanks for another great video, keep them coming!
Hi Harold.. Ha ha, thanks buddy, im keen to get stuck into the creative and interesting part of this build... so jjst getting stuck in aye... Hope you had a good Holiday weekend... take care and keep in touch... Del.
As always another superb video. I really wish I had removed my final drive sprocket from my engine before I removed it. Injured myself numerous times working on the bike and yes, footpegs vs hands do not mix lol
Having an engineering background, albeit electrical, I really enjoy the attention and emphasis you provide on the Torque topic. Wondering what your thoughts on digital torque wrenches are.
Yes,just done the same with my xl1000,but had to use a couple of hammers for the master link(it ain’t coming off that’s for sure!)
Great to follow, enjoyable to watch, good quality work. No change there then :)
Hi Dell, I like the chain tool, it seems less cumbersome than the Sealey one. Shame you don't work part time so you could spend more time with your TH-cam channel. Looking forward to the weekend. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks Andy, it is beefier, but simpler too, great little investment... and yeah, all we reap in goes on the projects and equipment for the videos... so life is still supported by the day job.. someday maybe mate.. keep pedaling aye.
My gen1 has a click from what feels like the final drive on acceleration if I have used engine braking previously. Might check mine!
I've got the same click issue , just changed my rubber cush drives the wheel hub bearing seemed good now it's very slight compared to older cush drives but still there. Only 7600 miles seems weird. I'm thinking countershaft bearing is bad? Have you figured your's out yet? TIA
The way this bike's been (ab)used makes me wonder if the engine needs a long and close up inspection ? 🤔.
Good vid again 👍 👍 👍.
Anyway.... Back to the question again, would it be wise to check the engine?
@bandr no need to say sorry. I wasn't offended or any of that. I'm just reliving the nightmare I had with my bike. Just as neglected and the internals needed a lot of work. Hence my question. 👍😁
@Anywhere North of Nowhere Agreed 👍.
Good day Mr. Del. Your videos are so detailed.And I like that the camera angles don't lose anything. Very good quality. Would you mind letting me know the name and possibly part number for the chain riveting tool you used on the hayabusa. Thank you very much for any information.
Thank you for your kind words, glad the video can help.... here's a direct link to the tool we used: www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/motorcycle-chain-splitter-and-riveting-tool-set-heavy-duty-119022?search=smc4&description=true
Hi Buddy, sorry still busy with the minibus. Getting it ready for holidays in July. great vids to date mate
Good timing again del just finished work
Parabéns,ótimo vídeo.
Hi Del, been away a while and just tuned back in, the bike looks pretty up together now and what a great video.
Kind regards mate.
Welcome back buddy, good to hear from you..
You got lucky there, no damage to the transmission shaft. If the lockwasher was tight but the retaining nut on the sprocket was loose then maybe the retaining nut was not stock and was too thin for the retaining plate to stop the retaining nut from unscrewing ?
The nut fits flush to the end of the shaft, (in order for it to lock on the thread), and the lock plate sits proud of the end of that shaft.. so there is a gap... the lock plate also fits into the end of the shaft to locate it... Its all factory buddy.. just wasn't torqued up i guess.!
It’s actually speed sensor rotor not lock nut. Great video 👍🏻👍🏻
Front Sprock looks diff these days. My last one I fitted a JT didnt have those what looks like counter weights attached. You didnt show link removal from new chain which I believe comes with more links then required. Like the new tool definitely better then the Motion Pro kit that I had, Like the splayed recess on pin taking the guess work out of how much to splay them. Excellent teaching vid as usual. WTG.
This new front sprocket was a JT also, and those things on it are hard rubber.. same as the factory sprockets, act like a damper.. The chain came the exact length, no need to remove any, and yeah.. the flaring tool has the outside wall of that recess at exactly 6.0mm, so all you do is force it all the way over until it grounds against the plate...and bingo, perfect 6mm flare.!
What's the saying? Curse once when buying the right tool for the job or curse every time you use a cheap tool for the job! Not calling the other tool cheap, just sometimes when buying a tool that does more, usually means it does most things OK rather than one thing great! Cheers
Exactly that mate... The other kit i have for chain riveting is great, and will covers chains from tiny little model drive chains and small bicycles.. but on heavy duty motorcycle chains it's right out at the top edge of its performance range...and thats always gonna wear it out quick.... This tool is really beefy and solid.. will last me years i recon.
One fine job 👍🏿
Hi Del, Thanks for making all of the great and useful videos. I just had a quick question. On my 2005 Hayabusa what is the best chain lube for dry riding? Thank you for your help!!
Hi Robert, for fine weather, summer time, I use a PTFE dry lube roughly once a week... hope that helps mate.
My gen1 with 7600 miles has a click sound can actually feel it from countershaft area if engine braking then it happens on taking off from complete stop. I just replaced the cush drives feels 50% better quieter but still there, hub bearing seemed fine. Would a worn counter sprocket or shaft do this. I got the bike with only 1000 miles and the chain was way way to tight zero slack and I'm thinking that wore something out. TIA
Great vids
informative and entertaining.
I love your videos
Thanks for all the tips again and that chain tool looks wicked. Good investment. I'm really loving the chilled music you've featured in these videos and that last quote is the no icing on the cake, I don't like icing but everyone loves cake, vegan carrot cake's the best ever =P
Always so positive, nice one. Take care.
Glad you're enjoying the music Johny, we're really lucky to have been able to use the music of some amazing musicians, they really add an ambience to the videos, links always under the videos, so often you can go to the link and download the music too!
@@Moonfleet41 Hello, oh ok, I'll check that out. Thanks
Been watching all your vids on this project ... given the amount of rusty things you have run across and where the rust is being found... I would think this bike has been at lease partially submerged. Not that it matters, of course. Good thing you had the sense and wherewithal to replace all the bits! Was wondering if you know any history on this bike - BTW - Great vids and Thanks!
No history at all im afraid, not a thing...! just a clean and clear HPI check and full MOT.!
On the subject of nuts suddenly breaking free, I remember once undoing a lock nut on a track rod end on a car, tight as they usually are, using heat and all sorts trying to get the bastard thing free. Anyway it did after a good 20 minute battle and my elbow shot straight into the pit floor (concrete) as you can imagine it wasn't exactly one of my best experiences - certainly memorable though! Great vid btw Del, haven't been watching you guys for long, but I've learned plenty. Cheers, Louis.
Hi Louise, Blimey, that sounds painful mate, injuries heal slower the older you get too aye..lol! Thanks for sharing and really appreciate your support.. have a good week.. Del.
Hi there Del, yes as I say it wasn't pleasant but its easily done as I'm sure you know! Haha I've got that part to look forward too. No problem, you too and most important of all, ride safe. Oh and its Louis!
@@louisbalboa9731 I think Del read your name fine, as he did use it lol. Say hi to Rocky for me ;)
Easy mistake I know, especially with autocorrect changing it on its own accord. Will pass the message on when I see the old man next lol. Take care :)
@@louisbalboa9731 Sorry Loius, it wasn't auto correct.. just numpty correct.... must try harder aye..!
What size tap did you use inside lock bolt hole?
Little wheel of horrors "feed me Del Boy,feed me" good vid again on how to fix,not like the previous owner had vids on how to tie a horse up('kin cowboy)
Amazing that you didn’t find more extensive damage in the front sprocket assembly, Del. On a related subject and being a long time HD owner, have often pondered whether belts or chains are more efficient for bikes? BTW, I also saw a different seat set up on your Dyna in Duke Dyson’s recent vid? Bloody hot here in Singapore this week!
Cheers for being the best darn motorcycle Vlogger around! 🏍👍🏍
Hey Gary, Good to hear from you always.. and envious of your location this week (as usual).. Belts vs Chains is a huge debate.. they argue that chains are for powerful bikes and belts for lazy cruisers.. but i think thats bunkum.. most sports bikes weigh no more then a wet cardboard box.. and a Harley Ultra with a pillion and rider weighs more than mount Fuji// so its not a strength thing.. maybe heat / friction etc?... but TBH, i think they are equally competent ways to transfer motive force to the road.. i like the clean and relatively maintenance free nature of a belt.. but a chain is old school and way cheaper to replace..!! see.. its a two way debate.! Safe travels my friend, enjoy your week.. D&Px
Oh missed your other question... I put the original factory seat back on for longer rides, as the original owner put a Corbin K&Q seat on it from day one..it spent 20 years in a box in the guys attic, came out unmarked and brand new, its superbly comfortable and that classic old school Dyna step style back support is like an arm chair..and Ive actually got ape hangers planned for it too now..lol... all things evolve aye.!
Moonfleet41 thx, Del. Good explanation. 👍
Moonfleet41 ahhh ok! I’ve got 2 seats for my Fatboy as well- the factory original also mostly unused given the low mileage and a bit plumpy-er Mustang seat the other half picked out for pillion comfort! Doh! 👍
What was the torque spec on the front sprocket nut? I believe I missed that
Pleasantly surprised by the price of the chain tool, it looks quality so I assumed it'd be silly money. Maybe I'll get one 😆
Yeah, my thoughts exactly.. the design of the flaring pin makes it not only pretty robust, but also you can;t fail to flare out the end of the chain pin as long as you wind it all the way in..! grease up the threads and i recon this tool will see me out..!
Great vid del as always ☺
bloody great video.
Man I just changed my back tire such a headache putting back the calliper because my pads are like 30% it gave me hell
Great vid as always buddy, and yes any excuse to buy more tools, I love em 😂😂
Always top ! Master Del 🙏 😉
What size drill bit and tap do you use..
I generally clear away all tools, unnecessary objects and if necessary put an old thick cheap duvet over stuff I might crash into if a socket, spanner, ratchet or bar breaks undoing old big nuts or torquing up new ones. Damage limitation speaking from bitter bloody experience in years gone by.
Ha ha.. i feel your pain Brother... lol! Folded up blanket lives under any wheel arch i work on with cars..!
Hi del, it Would be good to know how much the things you buy cost without having to look it up, that Chan tool looks the business as the one I've got it the thin pin type and it's had the end angle-ground down more times than I can count .
Also an update on your other projects would be interesting, whatever happened to the zx7 and the turbo xjr, did I miss a video of you selling them on? It's always good to see what you're up to in the time when I'm not working on my own project.
I read a comment asking why you didn't use an endless chain. Clearly from someone who knows nothing about chains and I assume hasn't noticed that the chain passes through the gap between the swing arm and upper brace. It's good to see most of your comments are positive though, you deserve it. Well done.
Hi Andrew.. i did post up the links to all the tools in this video, (well the important one anyway), and yeah, this chunky chain tool is a lot beefier tan the last set i bought, (same as yours by the sound of it)... i never really like to post up a life-and-times type vlog.. i have to sell the bikes when they're finished in order to afford the next one, and often its a sad departure.. specially the turbo bike.. but the ZX-7R Fighter is still with us, its actually away with a vinyl wrap company having a killer graphics design made for it.. and once its done ill be making a video, visiting the place, meeting the guys there and showing how they vinyl wrap bikes and how its printed and made...not just plain colours.. but photo style graphics.. its gonna be awesome.... But the guys very kindly offered to do it for serious mates rates, and i cant push them, it mid season for them now, and they're fitting my bike in between other work.... but once its done, it will be back... and then probably for sale..(sadly)..but we will be working with them on other things too, so lots on that tome come..
Oh, and the Dyna Wide Glide is still mine, plan to keep it, and its done a thousand miles already..!!
Thanks for your support mate, really appreciate your kind comments... Del.
New to ur vids del, as always great tips and explanations. U have given me lot more confidence to do more work on my bike. Just one thing i notice ur using a scissor lift. Why not do a little vid of how to correctly use one?
Hi Jonathan... welcome aboard sir, and glad the videos help... i already made a video a while ago on safe operation of a motorcycle lift, many people asked the same question as you as lots of people are buying them now for home use... So here is a link, and hope it helps you mate.. th-cam.com/video/voNak5eqRzg/w-d-xo.html
As the weather is turning crap again I am thinking of rotor and pad swap, the bike is a GSX1250FA 10 years old 21k mileage,
I have had it for 3 years.
Would you recommend any other parts while I do this?
I have watched your Tokico strip down and I can manage that.
You promote Wemoto, should I ring them to see if they have the parts?
I'm very anal about tyres, brakes and chains, but only being back in biking after 700 year gap to get houses kids etc a lot has changed, hence I seek advice from trusted sources.
Regards Gee
That flaring head certainly looks the business . . . must confess to a few mutterings & reaching for the grinder myself; y'know, once you discover that the 'very last one' was indeed 'a squeeze too far'.
The only saving grace for ground off links, & other 'chain mistakes' various, is to sharpen the pins & use them as staples to hold things you hate, really, really flat against railway sleepers & telegraph poles etc. They do respond well to extremely prejudicial hammer blows & the sense of satisfaction as the side plate embeds the 'victim' into the fibrous, tar soaked mong of it's final resting place is both sweet & palpable. Back story? . . . I'm not really bitter, just crap at soldering.
Lucky with that output shaft; when you think of all the 'grunt' that's been passing through there . . . it's best not to! : ) x
You know people that do that as they have a bag full of masterlinks.
Guilty as charged . . . coffee jar, third from the left : )
How many ftlb does the front sprocket bolt tighten?
Hi
I changed my chain and sprockets a couple of weeks ago using your video as a guide, test rode the bike today and it runs a lot smoother but have noticed the rear brake rotor is blue. The wheel turns freely so I don't think it's a sticking caliper. I need to check the thickness tomorrow, could it be due to the rotor being too thin? I can't think of anything else. any help will be greatly appreciated ta.
OK, blue on the disc is obviously from heat, is it binding when you spin the wheel by hand with it lifted?, are you maybe riding the brake pedal?, and was it blue before you fitted the new chain and sprockets? something must have changed mate, so maybe retrace your steps of the re-assembly and see if you can find anything wrong !
I wonder how people manage to send you plates from Australia. Because in Western Australia at least, if you need to return your plates if you vehicle is unregistered. The only way I can think of to keep the plate is to report it stolen or continue to pay registration for it.
I have a question.Your 3/4 socket set is all 12 point.Is a 12 point socket better than a 6 point?
What mop have you in the bench grinder,that sprocket nut came out like new!
Just got A gen 1 busa,cool bike!
Just a regular wire mop..same as you'd use for cleaning spark plugs !
Great video, does the steering stabilizer on your busa flop around.
It was knackered,, binding and causing the steering to wander, so took it off. !
any reason you dont use the split pin type chain link?, ive used them all my life and never had a problem, though ive never had anything bigger than a 1000cc bike
You kinda answered your own question buddy, split link chains are for smaller engines with less power..
I hope you did not go into work to early mate ;) You're gonna need to put more pink on it now too. I should not have to much issue with the front sprocket, I got meself an impact gun and socket, that should make it much easier.
Check the torque pressure of that impact gun.. specially if its a lithium powered rattle gun, most of them are under 100Nm maximum, and thats barely two thirds of what this sprocket nut needs... can't beat a long bar and a manual torque wrench for me... Good to hear from you buddy, hope life is good.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 It's a powerful beast, I'll be a little shocked if it does not get it off. I've seen them take off rusted on nuts and bolt on cars quite easily.
Hi I’ve been watching your earlier videos on the bandit which you explain great which gave me the confidence to have a go at doing my front and back pads and cleaning callipers and pistons and after stop and pause successfully done a great job with your help.With the amount of videos on the bandit you have done I brought another one to have a go at doing some of the mechanical side to it.Could you give me a steer in the right direction if you can as this bikes been standing for 3 years in the back garden and the clutch pulls in as if it’s leaked the fluid as this happened to mine. I watched your well presented video and thought I could change the clutch cylinder seal but after looking the fluid is full so it can’t be the seal leaking ,could it be the actual clutch in the engine as seized,any help would be appreciated and keep up the great explanatory videos, I understand if you to busy to reply thx for reading and possibly boring you 👍🏻
OK, so you're leaking fluid (onto the ground presumably) but the clutch reservoir is full?... when you pull the lever in, does it open the clutch plates...or just flop in and out loosely..?
Moonfleet41 not leaking fluid because there’s none on the floor but the lever just pulls in as if there’s no pressure in it but wouldn’t now if the clutch plates are moving I can start it but oil pumps out of oil filter because corroded so I think my first step is to put an oil filter on so I can run it a bit .Because it’s been left for 3 years do you think the clutch plates have seized in and I do appreciate you replying thx very much
Hi again buddy, ok, I reckon I know what that is.. 'the fluid is leaking past the seal in the master cylinder'... basically when you pull the lever in, there's a piston inside the master cylinder with a rubber seal round it, that pushes forward, shoves fluid down the line and into the slave cylinder, that pushes the slave cylinder open, forces the rod through the engine and opens the plates... so,
If there's fluid on the ground then it's leaking out of the slave cylinder and failing to push the rod, if there is no fluid on the ground, then the piston inside the master cylinder on the bars is simply forcing forward against the fluid, but as the seal is gone, the fluid is just squeezing back past it, and not going down the line... so,
Get a re-build kit for the master cylinder, ever so easy mate, am doing a video on it very soon, if you're not sure, so stay tuned for that... and you may as well do the slave cylinder as well while you're at it, then juice it all up and your plates should open nicely... hope that helps buddy, good luck with the project, Del
Moonfleet41 thx for your time and explanation I will be waiting for the video and iPad fully charged so I can do it step by step so if I follow you piece of cake ,thx again mate I do mention you to my mates and tell them how good you are ,👍🏻🤘🏻
Del have you ever use engine a flush to clean an engine or would you use a cheep oil to before putting good oil in.
No, never used engine flush because it's fundamentally a 'solvent' designed to break down, and dilute, the oil... you'll always get a residue of it left in the engine, which can contaminate your oil, if your oil's really black, go with the secondary change of oil instead!
Moonfleet41 I thought so
Moonfleet41 oils not black, it’s just I’ve seen a few TH-cam videos lately and they recommend using it.
I was going to play safe and use clean oil run it a few miles then change it again
Where is link for chain riveting tool?
Nice 👍