thank you so much for this video! I'm a 40 year old woman and I fixed my dryer all on my own thanks to this guidance! I saved SO much money and I feel accomplished!
Exactly why I'm here this morning! 😂 woke up with my dryer feeling so hot it was glowing orange under it. Luckily I caught it before anything went up in flames. Thanks for this in depth information. This was so very helpful! Now gonna go order some parts.
buddy, you saved me a lot of extra money i didnt have. The kit from amazon for $39 worked great. also needed to clean out the vents inside and out so thank you for that. seriously, thank you so much for these videos. :)
This video was just what I needed to know, I knew it as soon as I saw the pieces of the heating element. Unfortunately, for the Kenmore dryer I have, the heating elements is $135. Thanks to people like you I have been able to keep it going for 20 years.
Thanks for this!! My dryer's heating element was staying on when the timer was on, even when the dryer wasn't turned on. So I watched your video, took out my heating element and saw that one of the wires was sticking out touching the metal, so I pushed it back into place and put the other wires into their holders (most of them were out) and now it's working again. Thanks again!!
This was the exact video I needed!! You nailed my problem, and your advice may have prevented a fire or other terrible outcome. Thanks for posting this up.
Thank you. My dryer was getting too hot, and I had already replaced both of the thermostats. Finally watched your video and found the element was grounded. One wire of the element was welded to the housing. I got it off without breaking it and bent it back and away. Fixed the problem. Thanks again!
Thank you so much. This showed me what I needed to do to change the heating element for my dryer. Runs great!!! Also, we followed the advice and cleaned the lint area. Boy, was that needed! Thank you for that idea. It was easy since we had the back off of the dryer.
OMG. This was my case exactly. Door open or closed, the heat would cycle on and off while the timer was engaged. Pulled the timer first, no shorting or welding of metal there. Checked continuity between heater terminals and metal frame and sure enough there was electricity flowing. Pulled the heating element and "bent" the coils I thought were touching the frame as as all the coils were intact and not broken off. Reassembled everything and voila!, fixed. I am considering replacing the element as I know the heat might cause the coils to expand and touch the frame again down the road. Thanks for this video. I watched a ton before I got to this one.
Glad you got it fixed. You should definitely replace the heating element once they start touching the frame they tend to continue. Sometimes they’re just stretched and sometimes the ceramic piece that holds them has broken. Either way the heating elements are cheap you should replace it.
Thank you thank you thank you!!! I replaced the burned out heating element on my Kenmore and it worked fine for a few loads then started staying hot after the load finished. Figured it HAD to be the timer so I replaced it, exact same problem. Checked all the easy stuff, could not fine anything. Watched a dozen videos, no help. Finally your video pointed me in the right direction. The replacement heater element has a loose insulator and it's letting the heating wire ground out. I know to always check what you just worked on but figured it couldn't be the heating element since it worked initially and it's getting hot. Never knew about this failure mode!!!!
I had 2 issues. Dryer not stopping at off position, a Dial issue. Replace the dial, and then found the heating element staying on when dryer is not running, because it was grounded out. Awesome video. Such a fire hazard that the heating element fails in an on state. Thanks for the video.
Great video and was easy to follow. Thought this was my issue but it turns out the actual timer dial was the problem and it was causing the heating element to actually activate
This is a very helpful and thorough video. But I watched it twice, and you don't mention that if the cycling switch sticks closed, it will keep the heating coil energized, which can cause it to deform or break, and then short itself to the chassis. So if you do find a shorted coil as shown in this video, and the dryer still runs the coil too hot, immediately stop it before you ruin the new coil and check or just replace the cycling switch. I just did this repair on mine, and this time, I replaced the cycling switch with it because I had replaced the coil only about 2 years ago (with an OEM one), so it was extremely surprising to find it broken and shorted to the box.
Yes, a cyclone thermostat can go bad. I actually have a video on testing that, but not extremely common. The most common is lint buildup. The shower air flow across the heating element causes it to overheat and warp.
Very knowledgeable ty...I have a maytag model #med 6200kwo...this past week I put a fairly wet load of towels in ...and the next day the wife said the vent hose was hotter than normal..also she notice the very hose shake sometimes like the air stopped and then backpressured air out than ran normal happening on an off.....vent is perfectly clean...and heats up .high heat element goes on and shuts off.tub is spinning fine....I'm thinking maybe a thermal cut-off switch or fuse???
Thank you I had replace my heating element not a few days after that it stopped working fuse had blown I literally replaced everything down to the rollers I mean everything didt think to replace the fuses cause I just replaced them so replaced them again dryer over heated again so today I seen this video I checked heating element and that is what it was I put it upside-down and it melted to the casings lol so thank you for the rundown on everything I never would have thought to check it because I just replaced it
4:56 This plastic housing burnt/melted on one side. These wires are the ONLY plastic housings on any of my wire connections…I notice you have them on other wires…is this bad? Can I just wrap them or leave just the metal alone and hook them onto the fuses? I really don’t want to buy a new dryer right now.
My dryer turn on by itself seem like the timer doesn’t stop when turn on and now hot air is not blowing but still working. I don’t have a tester but should I order the fuses kit and put it on look easy and sample. Thanks for sharing
Well done! Best videos about dryers fix. I also have a question, I bought this new whirlpool dryer and while drying out some clothes I observed through the edge of the galvanized cover down on the left side like intense yellow light. Is this normal to see or is it a bad sign ?
The issue i have is what you described in the beginning: the heating element comes on when the dial is in any position other than 'Off' and the dryer is not running. Otherwise the dryer seems to work fine. Does that mean i probably have a short in the heating element?
Double pole switching for the element should be standard when its fed from two hot legs, that way it can't turn on unless both legs are present. Also, RCD (GFCI) protection would trip instantly in the event of a grounded element.
Lack of airflow is also caused by way too many clothes in the dryer. The clothes block the breathing holes/vent inside the dryer and the heated air cannot escape. This can also trip the fuses.
thank you for the video, clear and concise. the problem i am having is no matter what cycle you use it is always on high heat, even on air only. when the dryer is off there is no heat. chaanging the heat knob does nothing high heat all the time. i replaced the timer which was bad and the fuse but there is no change, high heat any cycle. any help would be appreciated. thank you
@@michaelteti5148 Thanks! I've just ordered the only switch that I haven't replaced so far. I've taken the heating element out and it looks pristine and has no shortage and proper ohm reading. Replacing the fuse made it work but the clothes heated to over 200 degrees and it blew the fuse again.
In the 2023 NEC a dryer receptacle is required to be on a GFCI breaker. If the heating element is grounded against the chassis, the GFCI breaker will keep tripping. This only applies to new installs.
Hey there, im hoping you can help me out. My heating element doesnt stay on continually but it does get really hot. And it stays on through the cool down cycle. I took the back off and checked for lent and its not to bad. The heating element looks fine. A little bend in one of them. Could this be why the heating element stays on through the cool down cye?
ALSO IF I RESET THE BREAKER AFTER PULLING THE PLUG THE BREAKER RESETS . THEN WHEN I GO TO PUT THE PLUG IN THE 30A OUTLET IT SPARKS AND POPS THE BREAKER , WHY IS THAT HAPPENING . ALL THE WIRES ARE BACK EXACTLY WHERE THEY WERE . ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED . THANX FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORT .
So my timer continually advances regardless of whether the door is open or shut, unless I unplug it and it heats the whole time. It only turn with the door shut and if you push the start button, but it will continually heat. I Thought I had a bad timer,and replaced it. Nothing changed😢.Pretty sure the dryer is clean, and the vent to the outside is, because I have recently checked all of that.I will gladly check it again this weekend. So now I guess I'm also going to check the heating element as well to see if it could be the culprit. I am definitely not very knowledgeable in this area, but I have changed elements,fuses,thermal cutoffs, belts,timers and rollers in dryers before. I don't know about electrical things, but I think I can make sense of the meter. This is not my wheelhouse but if I can safely repair it I expensively, then I will try.
I have a Whirlpool dryer. Not too old either. I have cleaned it very good. Tested a lot as for the Thermostats and fuses and the problem still continues. Within a minute the circuit box/panel 30amp breaker trips. I run the dryer on no heat (fluff mode) and the breaker will not trip. Even tested the circuit box breaker or problems. No problems. What other items might be causing the tripping of the circuit box breaker? I would "think" if the problem was actually in dryer it would malfunction at the unit and not the breaker box. This problem has come on fast and not intermittent.
This is one of those things that’s hard to know unless you just take your time and start from the breaker and work your way forward until you’re fine what is grounded out. If it’s not the dryer for sure and then it could be anything from a bad breaker to a squirrel or mouse has chewed the wires. It could also be a bad plug box for the dryer. Be careful if you are not comfortable testing power definitely get a professional.
@@WasherDryerMoney I really don't feel it's the wiring, breaker or box/outlet since all my testing. If is was I would think if it was in the line it would still trip the breaker in Fluff mode. Anyway, appreciate your response. I have decided to order a complete fuse/thermostat kit and replace everything just for ruling out sake. Very cheap to purchase and if it fixes things it would be a $595 savings buying a whole new dryer.
@@michaelfollin2595 Never hurts to replace fuses and thermostats every once in a while. Still a breaker should only trip if it detects a hot wire is grounded or something is pulling more than 30 A. I have had a breaker go bad in my shop. I thought I would never figure out what was wrong finally replace the breaker and it stop tripping. It’s a rare problem though.
@@WasherDryerMoney Just wanted to give you an update and for posting sake if anyone else runs into this problem. I inspected the breaker panel again for a ground problem on that circuit. Found none. However, I did find one of the hot wires to the double pole 30 amp breaker was "very" loose. Stuck it back in all the way and tightened it down. Wa-La it works fine now. Running some wet clothes now to see if the thermostats are working properly but I anticipate they will. Thanks for you help.
Maybe you can help?, I’ve got a Samsung dryer not heating no error codes displays. heating element works , all the Sensors work. The relay is working and I’m getting full 220v and the control panel works too. Iv also inspected all the wiring . Any suggestions??. Thanks.
It’s all one big coil. I have seen with people attempt to reconnect where it breaks. I’m sure it’s not a good idea. Plus Usually it will immediately break again so I don’t recommend it.
My dryer just stopped turning on. It was burning hot and wheel wasn’t turning. I unplugged it and it cooled down. Once I plugged it back in it heated up fast and It was in the off position.
I've watched yours and other videos and am still confused. I just replaced the cycling thermostat as well as that fuse because it just wouldn't run at all. Now it runs fine so I stuck a thermometer in the hose just behind where it connects to the exhaust and on both medium and high heat it maxes out and holds at about 170˚ which had me wondering why the same max temp for both settings? Then after I let it cool down I closed the door and a few seconds later the heating element came on. When I turned the timer off the element turned off. Tested the element, thermostat, and fuse and all are good. Pulled the element and it almost looks new, no bent or broken coils, no indication of shorting out. Barely any lint anywhere because I clean the filter after each use.
Definitely don’t leave it plugged in until you solve the problem. With the dryer unplug, you tested both sides of the heating element against the frame of the heating element? If so, it could be connecting in the timer. I have a video on dryer temperatures and also on refurbishing and testing timers. Basically, if you take the timer off, they’re pretty easy to open and you can usually eyeball if there is a problem with them. Heating elements coming on while the fan is not running is very dangerous. Be sure not to leave the dryer plug in until you are confident it is fixed.
Id love to fix appliances except i never thought of doing it because parts are expensive where its not worth paying me to come to your house buy a new motor for a 5year old front loader and install it .id half to have good stalk of parts to be efficient so i never half to go order parts and go back
Great video. I have a 1990 kenmore dryer model #11086878100 that runs hot. i already changed the heat coil, both thermostats, both fuses. No lint blockage. Timer works. Heating coils do not cycle off even at 200 degree F. Any other suggestions what to do? Please help.
My best guess would be what is videos mainly about. The heating element coil could be touching the frame of the dryer. That would make the heating element stay on all the time. Definitely if you cannot solve the problem do not continue running the dryer it’s a very dangerous problem.
Is the heating element suppose to turn on when i move the timer without pressing start? Also i can hear a noise humming noise from the timer even when is on the off position is that normal ?
I would definitely not leave that dryer plugged in. I also would not use it until you are 100% sure it is fixed. it should definitely not have the heating element on about pressing the start button. Could be a grounded heating element. like the example from this video shows. if you’re not confident, it’s fixed be sure to get a professional to check it out before you plug it back in.
Hello I have this kenmore dryer the problem was that the thermal fuse keeps blowing this is a 10 year old dryer, but I noticed that the coil was drooping an arcing on the metal so I believe that's why it's keeping blow thermal fuse. But also I'm new to appliance repair. but I heard because l'm buying Chinese parts it's not like the original part so it's going to keep blowing every 3 to 6 months because I'm not used the original part it that true??? Let me know thx
I am not a repair person, but I can tell you from my experience repairing my own appliances (including a Whirlpool dryer like this, and a WP clothes washer), that it definitely matters to get genuine Whirlpool OEM parts. The 3rd party knock-offs and the cheaper ones from China sold on places like Amazon are not made as well and do not last.
I BOUGHT THE ENTIRE REPAIR KIT . ALL THE THERMALFUSES ,THERMOSTATS AND THE NEW HEATING ELEMENT . DRYER RAN FOR ABOLUT 3 WEEKS NO PROBLEMS . STARTED RUNNING WAY TO HOT AND THE DRYER WOULD STOP . I CHECKED ALL COMPONENTS AND THE NEW HEATING ELEMENT ALL GOOD . NOW WHEN I TRY TO TURN ON THE DRYER IT KEEPS BLOWING THE BREAKER ???????????? PUZZLED.
Buy the heating element from Amazon. It comes with the fuse and thermostats for $30- $40. A parts store will charge you $18 for the fuse and $60 for the heating element!
But the Amazon one won't be OEM, and believe me, there really is a difference. Genuine Whirlpool parts are better made than the aftermarket brand ones. (and no, I don't work for Whirlpool :-) )
Because no matter what else is going on in the circuit, there is no way either lead to the heating coil should ever be grounded to the chassis. If it is, there is a short and other than the broken coil touching the box, there is really no other place where one of those leads can ground out. In addition, it takes two minutes to take the coil box off if you detect a short, to couble check that the coil is really bad.
@@cowsongsI tend to remove both wires when checking thermostats/thermal cutoffs in case one of the wires or whatever it is attached to is touching metal somewhere and is grounded.
I just replaced the entire heating element array and fuses in my Samsung, and after plugging it in the whole dryer started heating up - while turned off!!! WTH??? Saw this video, and yup.. one of the new coils was touching the frame box it came in! Just had to bend it slightly. Scary stuff. That type of short should not be a factor when the dryer is turned off.
It’s all about airflow. If the dryer is stopped up the heating element will not last because it does not have airflow to keep it from overheating. A dryer being stopped up either at the lint trap or the exhaust pipe being bent or just lint built up in the machine is the number one cause of heating elements going out.
If you have it on time dry it will still progress on some older dryers. Usually it will not progress If you put it on auto dry. Double check that the heating element is not coming on while it is ticking.
Our heating element stays on when the timer is on anything but the off position, even with the door open , the heating element looked good too, everything tested fine, I can't figure it out right now
@Washer Dryer Money thanks for the reply, it was not a grounded heating element, the motor was bad, there was broken pieces in the motor , new motor , everything is fine.
@@rorymclean7545 im having the same issue check your timer and timer motor, i think thats my issue but its gonna be har dto justify 70 bucks on a maybe. if you are lucky its just one of your contacts on your timer needs to be filed. its frustrating the crud out of me.
this video was so clutch!!! i fixed my issue and bought the parts through your link. couldn't be easier. thank you!
Glad to help
thank you so much for this video! I'm a 40 year old woman and I fixed my dryer all on my own thanks to this guidance! I saved SO much money and I feel accomplished!
Exactly why I'm here this morning! 😂 woke up with my dryer feeling so hot it was glowing orange under it. Luckily I caught it before anything went up in flames. Thanks for this in depth information. This was so very helpful! Now gonna go order some parts.
buddy, you saved me a lot of extra money i didnt have. The kit from amazon for $39 worked great. also needed to clean out the vents inside and out so thank you for that. seriously, thank you so much for these videos. :)
This video was just what I needed to know, I knew it as soon as I saw the pieces of the heating element. Unfortunately, for the Kenmore dryer I have, the heating elements is $135. Thanks to people like you I have been able to keep it going for 20 years.
Love your channel. You've saved me so much money fixing my dryer. I didn't realized how easy it was to work on and fix. Big Thanks
Thanks for this!! My dryer's heating element was staying on when the timer was on, even when the dryer wasn't turned on. So I watched your video, took out my heating element and saw that one of the wires was sticking out touching the metal, so I pushed it back into place and put the other wires into their holders (most of them were out) and now it's working again. Thanks again!!
This was the exact video I needed!! You nailed my problem, and your advice may have prevented a fire or other terrible outcome. Thanks for posting this up.
Glad to help.
Thank you. My dryer was getting too hot, and I had already replaced both of the thermostats. Finally watched your video and found the element was grounded. One wire of the element was welded to the housing. I got it off without breaking it and bent it back and away. Fixed the problem. Thanks again!
Thank you so much. This showed me what I needed to do to change the heating element for my dryer. Runs great!!!
Also, we followed the advice and cleaned the lint area. Boy, was that needed! Thank you for that idea. It was easy since we had the back off of the dryer.
Great job explaining how to check for a grounded heating element!!! That you!!
I am an appliance tech and own an appliance company and this is an excellent video, i send the link to customers to diagnose. Thank you
Thank you for the detailed operation of the high and low thermostats and fuses very helpful!
OMG. This was my case exactly. Door open or closed, the heat would cycle on and off while the timer was engaged. Pulled the timer first, no shorting or welding of metal there. Checked continuity between heater terminals and metal frame and sure enough there was electricity flowing. Pulled the heating element and "bent" the coils I thought were touching the frame as as all the coils were intact and not broken off. Reassembled everything and voila!, fixed. I am considering replacing the element as I know the heat might cause the coils to expand and touch the frame again down the road. Thanks for this video. I watched a ton before I got to this one.
Glad you got it fixed. You should definitely replace the heating element once they start touching the frame they tend to continue. Sometimes they’re just stretched and sometimes the ceramic piece that holds them has broken. Either way the heating elements are cheap you should replace it.
@@WasherDryerMoney Agreed. I did notice one of the ceramic holders was definitely loose.
Thank you thank you thank you!!! I replaced the burned out heating element on my Kenmore and it worked fine for a few loads then started staying hot after the load finished. Figured it HAD to be the timer so I replaced it, exact same problem. Checked all the easy stuff, could not fine anything. Watched a dozen videos, no help. Finally your video pointed me in the right direction. The replacement heater element has a loose insulator and it's letting the heating wire ground out. I know to always check what you just worked on but figured it couldn't be the heating element since it worked initially and it's getting hot. Never knew about this failure mode!!!!
Thanks!
Glad to help.
I had 2 issues. Dryer not stopping at off position, a Dial issue. Replace the dial, and then found the heating element staying on when dryer is not running, because it was grounded out. Awesome video.
Such a fire hazard that the heating element fails in an on state. Thanks for the video.
Glad to help.
Thank you for posting this. I changed devices just so that I could like this video and comment.
Your the only person showing my problem thanks
Thanks. I just fixed my dryer thanks to your video
thumbs up and subscribed. spot on to problem with my drier. the element was broken and both ends were grounded to housing
Thanks for the detailed video 😊😊
Great instruction and guidance! I was able to repair my problem in less than 10 minutes. Thank you!!
Glad to help
Thank you so much for putting this out. This was my exact problem!
Glad to help
Great video and was easy to follow. Thought this was my issue but it turns out the actual timer dial was the problem and it was causing the heating element to actually activate
Interesting. That doesn’t happen very often.
Good links to the parts. Thanks
Glad to help
Thanks - supper valuable information.
Thanks
This is a very helpful and thorough video. But I watched it twice, and you don't mention that if the cycling switch sticks closed, it will keep the heating coil energized, which can cause it to deform or break, and then short itself to the chassis. So if you do find a shorted coil as shown in this video, and the dryer still runs the coil too hot, immediately stop it before you ruin the new coil and check or just replace the cycling switch. I just did this repair on mine, and this time, I replaced the cycling switch with it because I had replaced the coil only about 2 years ago (with an OEM one), so it was extremely surprising to find it broken and shorted to the box.
Yes, a cyclone thermostat can go bad. I actually have a video on testing that, but not extremely common. The most common is lint buildup. The shower air flow across the heating element causes it to overheat and warp.
Very knowledgeable ty...I have a maytag model #med 6200kwo...this past week I put a fairly wet load of towels in ...and the next day the wife said the vent hose was hotter than normal..also she notice the very hose shake sometimes like the air stopped and then backpressured air out than ran normal happening on an off.....vent is perfectly clean...and heats up .high heat element goes on and shuts off.tub is spinning fine....I'm thinking maybe a thermal cut-off switch or fuse???
Awesome Information!! Very helpful!!
Glad to help
Thanks guy I fixed 8t
Thanks man great information
Glad to help
Thank you I had replace my heating element not a few days after that it stopped working fuse had blown I literally replaced everything down to the rollers I mean everything didt think to replace the fuses cause I just replaced them so replaced them again dryer over heated again so today I seen this video I checked heating element and that is what it was I put it upside-down and it melted to the casings lol so thank you for the rundown on everything I never would have thought to check it because I just replaced it
Glad to help.
4:56 This plastic housing burnt/melted on one side. These wires are the ONLY plastic housings on any of my wire connections…I notice you have them on other wires…is this bad? Can I just wrap them or leave just the metal alone and hook them onto the fuses? I really don’t want to buy a new dryer right now.
My dryer turn on by itself seem like the timer doesn’t stop when turn on and now hot air is not blowing but still working. I don’t have a tester but should I order the fuses kit and put it on look easy and sample. Thanks for sharing
Merci beaucoup, résolu mon problème.
Well done! Best videos about dryers fix.
I also have a question, I bought this new whirlpool dryer and while drying out some clothes I observed through the edge of the galvanized cover down on the left side like intense yellow light. Is this normal to see or is it a bad sign ?
Thank you while it wasn't a bad heating element it was a safety pin that had fell in and welded itself shorting it out
cool im watching all these vids , wanting to start this business
Glad you like the videos. Be sure to check out my getting started in the appliance business playlist.
The issue i have is what you described in the beginning: the heating element comes on when the dial is in any position other than 'Off' and the dryer is not running. Otherwise the dryer seems to work fine. Does that mean i probably have a short in the heating element?
Double pole switching for the element should be standard when its fed from two hot legs, that way it can't turn on unless both legs are present. Also, RCD (GFCI) protection would trip instantly in the event of a grounded element.
Will this also make the dryer stop turning?
Lack of airflow is also caused by way too many clothes in the dryer. The clothes block the breathing holes/vent inside the dryer and the heated air cannot escape. This can also trip the fuses.
Thank you... But I am slightly confused. What caused the heating element to stay on while the knob is on in the "other than OFF" position.
thank you for the video, clear and concise. the problem i am having is no matter what cycle you use it is always on high heat, even on air only. when the dryer is off there is no heat. chaanging the heat knob does nothing high heat all the time. i replaced the timer which was bad and the fuse but there is no change, high heat any cycle. any help would be appreciated. thank you
That's what mine is doing. Can't seem to figure it out...
@@jamesnelson6848 I bought all the switches and a new heating element on ebay. About $30. changed them all. easy fix and works like new. Good luck!
@@michaelteti5148 Thanks! I've just ordered the only switch that I haven't replaced so far. I've taken the heating element out and it looks pristine and has no shortage and proper ohm reading. Replacing the fuse made it work but the clothes heated to over 200 degrees and it blew the fuse again.
@@jamesnelson6848 i thought my element was ok to but it didn't work until i changed the element.
@@michaelteti5148 I'll order one. Thanks!
In the 2023 NEC a dryer receptacle is required to be on a GFCI breaker. If the heating element is grounded against the chassis, the GFCI breaker will keep tripping. This only applies to new installs.
Hey there, im hoping you can help me out. My heating element doesnt stay on continually but it does get really hot. And it stays on through the cool down cycle. I took the back off and checked for lent and its not to bad. The heating element looks fine. A little bend in one of them. Could this be why the heating element stays on through the cool down cye?
Where did you get that lift
ALSO IF I RESET THE BREAKER AFTER PULLING THE PLUG THE BREAKER RESETS . THEN WHEN I GO TO PUT THE PLUG IN THE 30A OUTLET IT SPARKS AND POPS THE BREAKER , WHY IS THAT HAPPENING . ALL THE WIRES ARE BACK EXACTLY WHERE THEY WERE . ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED . THANX FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORT .
what if you done all that and it still just gets red hot the moment you put it to anything besides hot, can it be the timer motor?
So my timer continually advances regardless of whether the door is open or shut, unless I unplug it and it heats the whole time. It only turn with the door shut and if you push the start button, but it will continually heat. I Thought I had a bad timer,and replaced it. Nothing changed😢.Pretty sure the dryer is clean, and the vent to the outside is, because I have recently checked all of that.I will gladly check it again this weekend. So now I guess I'm also going to check the heating element as well to see if it could be the culprit. I am definitely not very knowledgeable in this area, but I have changed elements,fuses,thermal cutoffs, belts,timers and rollers in dryers before. I don't know about electrical things, but I think I can make sense of the meter. This is not my wheelhouse but if I can safely repair it I expensively, then I will try.
I have a Whirlpool dryer. Not too old either. I have cleaned it very good. Tested a lot as for the Thermostats and fuses and the problem still continues. Within a minute the circuit box/panel 30amp breaker trips. I run the dryer on no heat (fluff mode) and the breaker will not trip. Even tested the circuit box breaker or problems. No problems. What other items might be causing the tripping of the circuit box breaker? I would "think" if the problem was actually in dryer it would malfunction at the unit and not the breaker box. This problem has come on fast and not intermittent.
This is one of those things that’s hard to know unless you just take your time and start from the breaker and work your way forward until you’re fine what is grounded out.
If it’s not the dryer for sure and then it could be anything from a bad breaker to a squirrel or mouse has chewed the wires. It could also be a bad plug box for the dryer. Be careful if you are not comfortable testing power definitely get a professional.
@@WasherDryerMoney I really don't feel it's the wiring, breaker or box/outlet since all my testing. If is was I would think if it was in the line it would still trip the breaker in Fluff mode. Anyway, appreciate your response. I have decided to order a complete fuse/thermostat kit and replace everything just for ruling out sake. Very cheap to purchase and if it fixes things it would be a $595 savings buying a whole new dryer.
@@michaelfollin2595 Never hurts to replace fuses and thermostats every once in a while. Still a breaker should only trip if it detects a hot wire is grounded or something is pulling more than 30 A. I have had a breaker go bad in my shop. I thought I would never figure out what was wrong finally replace the breaker and it stop tripping. It’s a rare problem though.
@@WasherDryerMoney Just wanted to give you an update and for posting sake if anyone else runs into this problem. I inspected the breaker panel again for a ground problem on that circuit. Found none. However, I did find one of the hot wires to the double pole 30 amp breaker was "very" loose. Stuck it back in all the way and tightened it down. Wa-La it works fine now. Running some wet clothes now to see if the thermostats are working properly but I anticipate they will. Thanks for you help.
Absolutely amazing. Thanks for this it is everything I needed. Keep up the good work
Glad to help
Maybe you can help?,
I’ve got a Samsung dryer not heating no error codes displays. heating element works , all the Sensors work. The relay is working and I’m getting full 220v and the control panel works too. Iv also inspected all the wiring .
Any suggestions??. Thanks.
If one of the coils is broken can I just remove the one bad coil as a temporary repair until I can get the new part?
It’s all one big coil. I have seen with people attempt to reconnect where it breaks. I’m sure it’s not a good idea. Plus Usually it will immediately break again so I don’t recommend it.
My dryer just stopped turning on. It was burning hot and wheel wasn’t turning. I unplugged it and it cooled down. Once I plugged it back in it heated up fast and It was in the off position.
Can u reuse a broken heating element if u reconnect the ends with a copper connector?
I’ve heard people have tried, but it doesn’t usually last. And I’m not honestly sure how safe it is.
Where us the link? I don't see it
I've watched yours and other videos and am still confused. I just replaced the cycling thermostat as well as that fuse because it just wouldn't run at all. Now it runs fine so I stuck a thermometer in the hose just behind where it connects to the exhaust and on both medium and high heat it maxes out and holds at about 170˚ which had me wondering why the same max temp for both settings? Then after I let it cool down I closed the door and a few seconds later the heating element came on. When I turned the timer off the element turned off. Tested the element, thermostat, and fuse and all are good. Pulled the element and it almost looks new, no bent or broken coils, no indication of shorting out. Barely any lint anywhere because I clean the filter after each use.
Definitely don’t leave it plugged in until you solve the problem. With the dryer unplug, you tested both sides of the heating element against the frame of the heating element? If so, it could be connecting in the timer. I have a video on dryer temperatures and also on refurbishing and testing timers. Basically, if you take the timer off, they’re pretty easy to open and you can usually eyeball if there is a problem with them.
Heating elements coming on while the fan is not running is very dangerous. Be sure not to leave the dryer plug in until you are confident it is fixed.
Id love to fix appliances except i never thought of doing it because parts are expensive where its not worth paying me to come to your house buy a new motor for a 5year old front loader and install it .id half to have good stalk of parts to be efficient so i never half to go order parts and go back
Great video. I have a 1990 kenmore dryer model #11086878100 that runs hot. i already changed the heat coil, both thermostats, both fuses. No lint blockage. Timer works. Heating coils do not cycle off even at 200 degree F. Any other suggestions what to do? Please help.
My best guess would be what is videos mainly about. The heating element coil could be touching the frame of the dryer. That would make the heating element stay on all the time. Definitely if you cannot solve the problem do not continue running the dryer it’s a very dangerous problem.
Is the heating element suppose to turn on when i move the timer without pressing start? Also i can hear a noise humming noise from the timer even when is on the off position is that normal ?
I would definitely not leave that dryer plugged in. I also would not use it until you are 100% sure it is fixed. it should definitely not have the heating element on about pressing the start button. Could be a grounded heating element. like the example from this video shows.
if you’re not confident, it’s fixed be sure to get a professional to check it out before you plug it back in.
Hello I have this kenmore dryer the problem was that the thermal fuse keeps blowing this is a 10 year old dryer, but I noticed that the coil was drooping an arcing on the metal so I believe that's why it's keeping blow thermal fuse. But also I'm new to appliance repair. but I heard because l'm buying Chinese parts it's not like the original part so it's going to keep blowing every 3 to 6 months because I'm not used the original part it that true???
Let me know thx
I am not a repair person, but I can tell you from my experience repairing my own appliances (including a Whirlpool dryer like this, and a WP clothes washer), that it definitely matters to get genuine Whirlpool OEM parts. The 3rd party knock-offs and the cheaper ones from China sold on places like Amazon are not made as well and do not last.
I BOUGHT THE ENTIRE REPAIR KIT . ALL THE THERMALFUSES ,THERMOSTATS AND THE NEW HEATING ELEMENT . DRYER RAN FOR ABOLUT 3 WEEKS NO PROBLEMS . STARTED RUNNING WAY TO HOT AND THE DRYER WOULD STOP . I CHECKED ALL COMPONENTS AND THE NEW HEATING ELEMENT ALL GOOD . NOW WHEN I TRY TO TURN ON THE DRYER IT KEEPS BLOWING THE BREAKER ???????????? PUZZLED.
Buy the heating element from Amazon. It comes with the fuse and thermostats for $30- $40.
A parts store will charge you $18 for the fuse and $60 for the heating element!
Can you walk into amazon today to buy it?
But the Amazon one won't be OEM, and believe me, there really is a difference. Genuine Whirlpool parts are better made than the aftermarket brand ones. (and no, I don't work for Whirlpool :-) )
I am surprised to see you testing for ground/ continuity before taking at least one of the lines off.
Because no matter what else is going on in the circuit, there is no way either lead to the heating coil should ever be grounded to the chassis. If it is, there is a short and other than the broken coil touching the box, there is really no other place where one of those leads can ground out. In addition, it takes two minutes to take the coil box off if you detect a short, to couble check that the coil is really bad.
@@cowsongsI tend to remove both wires when checking thermostats/thermal cutoffs in case one of the wires or whatever it is attached to is touching metal somewhere and is grounded.
I just replaced the entire heating element array and fuses in my Samsung, and after plugging it in the whole dryer started heating up - while turned off!!! WTH???
Saw this video, and yup.. one of the new coils was touching the frame box it came in! Just had to bend it slightly.
Scary stuff. That type of short should not be a factor when the dryer is turned off.
how does a heating element last on a dryer
It’s all about airflow. If the dryer is stopped up the heating element will not last because it does not have airflow to keep it from overheating. A dryer being stopped up either at the lint trap or the exhaust pipe being bent or just lint built up in the machine is the number one cause of heating elements going out.
Why is the timer on continuous even tho you not press start
If you have it on time dry it will still progress on some older dryers. Usually it will not progress If you put it on auto dry. Double check that the heating element is not coming on while it is ticking.
I hate working on this model of Whirpool/Kenmore, the design makes this job take a lot longer than it should be
Our heating element stays on when the timer is on anything but the off position, even with the door open , the heating element looked good too, everything tested fine, I can't figure it out right now
It’s a grounded heating element. Don’t use it until it is fixed. I have a video on grounded heating elements. Check it out.
@Washer Dryer Money thanks for the reply, it was not a grounded heating element, the motor was bad, there was broken pieces in the motor , new motor , everything is fine.
@@rorymclean7545 im having the same issue check your timer and timer motor, i think thats my issue but its gonna be har dto justify 70 bucks on a maybe. if you are lucky its just one of your contacts on your timer needs to be filed. its frustrating the crud out of me.
if i spend 70 more bucks that like 120 im at almost just rather buy a new one lol i think this was 300 7 years ago so ive kinda gotten my moneys worth
Happened to mine after the basement flooded with 17 in of water
We changed everything and the dryer still overheating
Could be stopped up with lint around the Fan. Very common problem.