Great video, thanks. I have been doing this diagnosis with my multimeter with the temperature probe attachment. On Whirlpool models with the lint screen on top I can slide my temperature probe down the backside of the lint screen opposite the fan and get it close to the blower fan
THANK YOU! This is the only video I've found that explains the function and purpose of each of the components: cycling thermostat, high(er)-limit thermostat, and thermal cut-off fuses. I appreciate the very clear explanation.
Just want to say a BIG thank you for your videos. I took apart my dryer, thoroughly cleaned it and successfully got it to work again. It still got super hot on top, not hot enough to cook an egg, I tried it and videod it. Ha ha. But my external vent had an inch of lint build up from previous owners. OMG, I'm doing a load of laundry now and hoping my dryer doesn't overheat anymore and it dries the clothes in less than 1 hour. I'll still hang my clothes to dry just to save on money and energy use. Thanks again! From a Handy Single Mom
Glad to help. Not sure I completely understand but if you are saying it is still getting warm on top that is incorrect and it is still stopped up somewhere. A good way to check is feel how hard the dryer blows when it’s disconnected from the wall and then reconnect it to the wall and walk outside and see if it’s blowing the same amount. Good luck and be safe and be sure not to run a dryer if it feels like it’s getting hot on top.
Hello, loved this video. I have a 1990 Kenmore dryer Model 11086878100 that is running too hot. I have replaced the lower cycle thermostat and then did your thermometer trick into the exhaust hose. My temp went over 200 degree F but the heating element did not shut off. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for this awesome video. I have an older (~2010) standard GE dryer, that has seemingly been way too hot during low heat settings. Shrinking some clothes, things seem crazy hot even when on low setting. My numbers are a bit different when doing this test, I am chalking up to differences between brands/models. I am seeing the "low" setting thermostat click off at around 126 degF, but (maybe due to feeding heat back in as you did) drifting to about 134 degF. Conversely, I'm seeing the "high" setting thermostat click off at around 130 degF, drifting to about 138 degF. This seems awfully close/similar in range. I'm also only seeing one thermostat listed in the parts list for this dryer. I'm going to keep digging, but thanks for the great video!
Thanks I learned a lot. My dryer does not have all those fuses and thermostat only 2 I believe. The owners manual specifies one one of them the temperature does not cut off till 220 degrees Wow! Is that the high limit One? It's not the cycling one .
Good video with very nice explanation of the different elements of the dryer. This gave me an idea for my project. I'm trying to kill termites and/or ensure that there are no termites, in wood furniture and cabinets. They can be eradicated with excessive heat so I've sectioned off a 2' x 6' section of my garage with Poly Styrofoam foil faced insulation panels. I'll put the furniture/cabinets in that room and heat it. I need the cabinets to get to a minimum of 130 degrees to kill everything off. I got an old dryer and ducted the vent into the room to heat it. My initial tests only got the room to about 110 or so. After watching your video, I decided to remove the lower limit thermostat from the duct in hopes that the heating element would stay on longer. After removing the lower limit thermostat, I was able to get the temperature up to 140 in 15 minutes and after an hour, just above 160 so hopefully that will get the core temp of the wood to at least 130 and solve my termite problem without having to throw away the wood cabinets! My thinking is that I'll still have some safety margin available with the high limit and fuse links although I am monitoring it while it is running, just to ensure nothing lights up. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the explantation of the sequence of the safety features. It cleared things up for me. I have an older Kenmore dryer that stopped turning on about a month ago. I didn't have a multimeter or any real experience repairing appliances to rule anything out. But I ended up replacing the door switch, didn't help obviously. Further research told me that it was probably the thermal fuse. I bought a cheap multimeter and bought a new a thermal fuse. The fuse tested bad and actually looked a little melted near the contacts. I also cleaned my dryer vent out with a leaf blower, it was clogged after at least four years of neglect, my fault. The dryer started and ran but I realized there was no heat. Testing showed me that the high limit cutoff was bad. I actually tested that theory by bypassing the cutoff and the heating element turned on. I learned that I could reset the cutoff by smacking it on the ground a few times. That worked temporarily and I ordered a new high limit cutoff and a thermostat. Dryer worked great for about a week and the high limit cutoff blew again. Thought maybe it was just a dud and got another set on eBay. Same result after a few days. Bought the Whirlpool set this time to replace it again, same result after a few days. I did test the timer and it seemed good. Also added some foam weather stripping around the blower to replace the dry rotted seal. So after watching your video i'm suspecting that the low limit thermostat has probably been bad this whole time and is causing the high limit cutoff to blow. I'm going to check it out tomorrow but i'm frustrated and my wife is annoyed about having a dryer full of wet clothes. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
There's a very good chance that it is stopped up the housing for the filter. Take it all the way off and check it. Also check the filter itself sometimes there will be a very fine lin build up on the screen. Another thing to check is heating element may be grounded making it stay on constantly. I have a video on this problem. I'll put a link to it
@@WasherDryerMoney Took the housing for the filter off and it was clear. I'd previously washed the lint trap and it looked clear. Low heat thermostat tests good for continuity. Heating element did not look grounded to the housing. Coil did not look broken anywhere. High limit cut off tested bad again. Smacked it on the ground a few times and I have heat again for now. Kind of stumped. It is noisy when running. Not sure if bad rollers or something else could be the culprit.
I did an experiment. I unhooked the dryer vent and bypassed the high limit cutoff by taping the wires together. The dryer seemed to heat up to about 170°F and cycle like it should. I can hear the low limit thermostat clicking on and off. I put the high limit cut off back in after "resetting" it by smacking it on the ground a few times, the heating element cut off at about 113°F. The high limit cut off showed no continuity. So that should have eliminated any ventilation issues since it was venting in the laundry room and it still blew. I think I'm going to order another high limit cut off/thermostat set and see what happens. But I'm not sure if it'd just be a waste of money or not.
Hi, thanks for the video. Really cool to learn so much about how dryers work. I found your video while trying to learn how to adjust my dryer temperature down, specifically in the low setting. I don't have a lot of confidence that the low setting is much, if any, different from the medium or even high setting on my Maytag dryer. The clothes feel too hot for low. Can you refer me to another video that may address this specifically? Or do you have suggestions? Thanks so much.
great video I have a Maytag Centennial gas dryer ,everything starts up fine ,heats up ,once reaches a certain temperature, which is very hot, timer stops advancing and dryer shuts off
I’m not super familiar with the gas dryers. They’re not popular in my area. My first guess would be to make sure it’s not stopped up with Tint. Be careful overheating dryers are very dangerous.
The contacts are sticking or welding together, not what I would call going out but easy to replace. It also keeps the timer from advancing, which also has heater contacts that can stick or weld together but can sometimes be filed flat and lubed with a little vaseline but may go bad later.
Thank you for this! I'm having the cycling temp higher and higher issue as you described. However, I want to make sure my temperature selector switch isn't faulty in case it's actually what's causing the cycling thermostat issue. Would you possibly be able to share how to test the switch using a multimeter?
Great channel👍….our whirlpool dryer suddenly stopped working normally. When the dryer is shut off, it continues to heat up…unable to turn off the heat with the timer dial? Also unable to turn dryer back on with the push switch? The only way to turn off the heat is to pull the power plug…Do you have any idea what parts I need to order? Thanks for your advice.
I have a Whirpool gas dryer, the dryer will not advance in auto dry high or low heat but It will in timed dry. I replaced the timer with a used one and the thermostat has been replaced. Someone spoke about a possible bad resistor but I can't find it.
I have a a dryer gets really hot you can see the heater inside red hot that I burned my hand on the drum y doesn't it Trip the safety fuse? You can smell it burning inside the drum . thanks 👍
Hi thanks for the content, On a D6480 Hoover TDryer, the one with the simple dual heat/timer control, the dryer is only warming, i don't think the hot cylce is working even though the dryer is working, how do i test the controler or is there anything else i can check, the element has 2 wires so i assume it has a potentiometer in the controler and the element tests 37ohms ok, both thermoststs/temp cont test ok too, (cold that is) cheers
I have a GE dryer. Ventilation is good, but it likes to shut off after a few minutes and the back of the machine near the heater gets too hot to touch. My guess is a thermostat, how would I know which one?
Not 100% sure. Definitely a dangerous situation if the dryer is overheating to the point where it’s shutting off. GE dryer’s have a weird spot where they build up Lint. Look inside the door there is a stainless steel round plate on the back of the drum. Lint will build up to the point where it cannot flow properly behind that stainless steel plate. That would be my only guess. It’s always hard to figure these things out when I’m not in front of the machine.
So there is 2 heating elements, the tall vertical one on the right and a small one by the fan? I removed the back on mine + the lint & fan guard tried running mine and noticed the air leaving the macine was room temp despite the vertical heating element going on & off. I'm guessing I need to re-try this but with the lint/fan guard.
My dryer is taking more than one cycle to dry clothes leaving them damp. I’ve changed the gas solenoids the flame sensor and every limit and thermostat on back. The belt is new the rollers are new and I’ve taken it completely apart cleaned the lint trap duct on the unit the blower wheel and the exhaust duct going outside. Any suggestions because I’m all out. Nothing is obstructed and it’s all clean. Seems like the inside of the dryer is no getting hot enough. Both screens inside the dryer where the heat enters the drum are also both clean and not obstructed.
We replaced the whole kit for dryer. dryer gets to hot and shuts off again. can the thermostat be wired backwards maybe or would it be more to do with being clogged up?
I have a Kenmore dryer model 68102 that only reaches 110 degrees at the exhaust outlet, based off your video I should be seeing about 175 max, should I replace both high limit and low limit thermostats to correct this issue thanks
my 700 kenmore dryer thermal cut off is burnt, I changed a new one few minutes later it burn again, I change the other new on but few minutes later it burn again. I stop here and need your help. Thanks.
Thank You so so much for sharing your expertise with us. You not only addressed my concern by demonstrating in a thorough manner. One question though: If a new thermostat is faulty will it still register good in the multimeter or not. Might be a silly question but I'm a novice in this field and trying to cover all my basis in this regard. Again Thank You Art Borquez
Yes it is very hard to tell if a thermostat is not working with a multi meter. It’s best if you have any questions just to replace it. There are kits on Amazon to replace all the sensors for a very affordable prices. When in doubt replace it.
I just bought a used Whirlpool. I shop vacuumed the hole in the back before attaching the vent hose but the hose was kinked because it’s too long. I ran one cycle to test it and right before the cool down portion of the cycle it shut off. Dryer was hot to the touch. This was last night. It’s cool today but will not start in any setting.
If the dryer is hot to the touch, definitely don’t turn it on again. It’s going to be stopped up somewhere. When a dryer cannot exhale, air out the regular exhaust vent, it will start pushing air around the drum into the cavity of the dryer itself. More than likely, the thermal fuse has blown. It’s a cheap part. It’s designed to shut the dryer off when it overheats. It’s not a resettable part. It has to be replace.
@@WasherDryerMoney I shortened the hose so there’s no kinks. Took off the back and checked for build-ups, there weren’t any. Tested the fuse/operating thermostat/high heat thermometer and had resistance at all 3 spots. Heating element wasn’t grounded out. Plugged it in and it worked. Ran a cycle with a few shirts and then opened the door, the drum was turning. Let it continue and, like before, 3/4 through the cycle it shut-off and won’t turn back on again. Only difference this time was that it wasn’t hot to the touch.
Thanks for your videos! I have a question. I am using the thermometer as shown in this video. I note that the “low” thermostat consistently cuts off heating coils at 165F, but as soon as temp cools to 142F, the dryer turns off. Do you have any thoughts on what causes this behavior?
Different dryers could use different thermostats. There’s also some dryers that have settings that will bounce between two temperatures for more delicate clothes. It could also be a thermostat going bad. Thermostats are cheap so when in doubt replace it.
I have a GE that I replaced the heating element , DCXR463EAOWW, and now I notice that the heating element comes on without using the start switch, also it stays on when I open the door, I have to turn it off with the timer. Timer bad? WE4 M188,
Where did you by the extension cord for testing dryers? I am tired of having to move my dryer to test other ones. Also what is your set up when testing washers.
I am also having this issue. I have changed all my sensors and replaced the timer only to blow a thermal fuse every 2-3 months. Not a speck of lint in the dryer. Only thing left i can think of is heating element is bad itself. Or the blower unit isn't working as well as it should.
I have a 35 year old Maytag electric dryer. It has push buttons for two heat settings, Delicate and Regular. With clothes in the dryer, the Delicate setting ran between 130-136 degrees at the lint filter once warmed up. The Regular setting ran between 117-122 degrees. No, I didn't get that backwards! The Delicate setting is actually running hotter than the Regular setting! My other issue is that when the dryer is on automatic dry, the buzzer no longer sounds when the clothes are dry. Any ideas? Thanks!
My dryer temperature went to 175, I heard the click, and then it dropped. I did notice the heating element was glowing red. The metal piece with the holes in it that are inside the dryer in front of the heating element have changed color over the years. It's darker. Is that normal?
I've changed the thermal fuse and the one next to it that helps heat the dryer and it's still blowing cold air..I've taken it completely apart no lint on the inside or the motor but still only cold
Be sure to check that you’re getting full power to the dryer. If the dryer is getting only half power “which is a very common problem to happen” The drum will turn but the heating element will not come on. The heating element is 220 the motor that runs the drum and fan is 110. So if your 220 plug is getting half power it will only turn the fan on and turn the drum not the heating element. This may not be a problem but definitely something you should check before digging too deep into the dryer.
I have a Samsung Dryer never model with touch pad. It’s giving me the HC error code and I’ve replaced the fuse and thermostat. It runs for about 5 secs and then giving the HC code. Any idea?
Great video! My maytag is turning off mid cycle then only works if you hold the start button. If you let it rest it will run for a while again. Drum is turning and the vents are completely clean. Any ideas?
@@WasherDryerMoney I had a ton of lint buildup on it since I've never opened it up to clean that part. I ordered another motor. Hope that fixes the problem.
My dryer does not go through the cycles it stays hot and the timer stays on 1 minute and does not go to o and the cloths are hot. I feel I have one of the hookups hooked up wrong, like the thermostat.
My gas dryer has blown 3 igniters. Do you have any idea what the issue could be? I also replaced the flame sensor. Dryer is an Amanda gas dryer NGD4655EW
2 things: A:) Dryer definitely heating over 181⁰F. Explains why I keep blowing the thermal fuse above the low limit thermostat. I will replace the low limit thermostat. B.) The heating element is turning on during the "fluff" mode. Even on when air temp at exhaust is 180+⁰F. What is the deal there? Whirlpool WED5321SQ0.
Figured it out. A tiny part of the heating element coil was touching part of the duct. Basically the heating element was grounded. I took off the coil assembly. The part of the coil touching the duct was slightly welded to it. It kind of stretched and deformed before it "popped loose" as I was removing the assembly. I reshaped the coil and positioned it so it would not touch the duct when reinstalled. Everything is now working normally (except my high limit thermal fuse was blown - I had a new one on hand). Back in business and wife is happy.
Do you know of any vid showing disassembly of a model SDE4606AYH or similar Maytag electric dryer? I've never had any trouble getting into any dryer, but, THIS one has a construction I've never seen before. Basically, the sides and rear are all one piece (except for the back panel behind the controls.) That forms a giant "C" as viewed from above, standing on the left side of the dryer. None of the other panels seem to pop apart -- everything that starts to separate seems to have a screw behind it or is interlocked. Trying to pry to "pop the top" from the front is beginning to bend the metal. There are screws along the bottom of the "C", but I can't see that taking them out gets me into the dryer chassis. How the heck does this thing come apart?
Mine heats up intermittently. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Could it be the cycling thermostat? I've got a low operating temp thermostat, a high one and a cycling high temp. Thanks for the info!
Intermittently heating usually is caused by the timer. If you look at my videos you’ll see I have a video on bed timers. Timers are usually pretty easy to check. Unplug the dryer and open the timer and see if it has burn marks on the electrical contacts.
@@WasherDryerMoney Wow, thanks for that! I had a tech take a look at it and he thought it might be the timer, but he didn't check it. I'll take the control box apart and pull out the timer. I was told my dryer is around 20 years old. I bought it used and have had it running for many years, so I wouldn't be surprised. :) Going to check your timer video! Is this the one you were referring to? "How to Mail-in Refurbished Fried Dryer timer for just $29 Fix for Kenmore, Whirlpool, Estate, Roper" Thanks! th-cam.com/video/GiVEZJph1jM/w-d-xo.html
@@squirrelattackspidy you can sometimes get another timer on eBay for a reasonable price. Be sure if you order a timer that has the exact same numbers and the letter at the end of The apart number. There used to be a guy on eBay that you could mail the timer to and he would refurbish it. I’m not sure if he still doing it. Good luck
@@WasherDryerMoney Thanks for that! I found a guy on Ebay who was selling the same part number as what I've been finding on dryer part stores based on my model number, but I don't know if it's down to the same suffix as my unit.
@@squirrelattackspidy I have bought one before that had a different letter at the end and I had to swap the center cam out because the off positions were not in the same places. It really wasn’t that big a deal to swap the plastic cam in a center out. It could be that some of the letters are the same and I just happen to get one that wasn’t exactly the same. Who knows. Ever since it happened to me I always make sure I buy one with the right letter at the end just to make it an easier replacement.
My high limit fuse (the top one) keeps going out on me, and I don't understand why... I've replaced all but the bottom thermostat... the wire to my higher thermostat (one on the bottom) was actually melted! I rewired it and have been trying to keep an eye on it to see if it gets warm but it seems my top thermostat, the high limit fuse(one on the top) keeps blowing.... I'm stumped
Thanks for the info. I have a Maytag 4000 dryer and I am getting an F22 error about a minute after cycle start. I am reading it can be the thermistor. Something I did is I kept restarting the cycle for about 20 minutes. What I noticed is that the clothes were extremely hot. Any advice on what these symptoms mean?
First thing to check when clothes are overheating is if the dryer is exhausting air freely. A lot of times it will be something simple like the exhaust hose going out of the house will be stopped up or bent. Sometimes it will be a little more difficult and it will be stopped up inside of the dryer near the Fan. I would check that first and if that’s not it I would go with your research and replace one part at a time until you find the problem. Good luck.
My Dryer calls for a Wp3387134 which is a 155 degree Cycling T-stat. My question is do they make or can I install a Higher Temp T-stat to run the dryer a little hotter?
I like your videos but I seem to have a GE Hotpoint dryer that is unlike any I have seen in the videos. It is a model htk21eask0ww, and I have downloaded the service manuals but they are not very clear. I need to re-attach the exhaust hose on the inside but can not figure out how to do that without disassembling the entire dryer.The manual I have tells how to attach he exhaust vent but not how to access to do it. Are you familiar with this models of similar ones?
If the pipe is undone from the inside of the dryer blower wheel you will have to more than likely open the entire dryer up and remove the drum to get to that spot unless it just pushes on and has no keeper that you have to put on it. I’m not a super expert on GE dryer‘s but from what I remember I believe there was at least a screw that held it to the blower.
I have a Whirlpool model Wed49stbw1. After about 25 minutes of running it will shut off and you can press Start to restart it but soon as you let off button it shuts off. If I hold button it will run no problem. What is causing this ?
You should definitely not use the wrong part. Dryers are very dangerous machines. There’s a lot of centers and fuses designed to keep the machine from catching on fire. Be careful.
I’ve replaced the heating element once already, as well as all of the other fuses, but the dryer stopped heating again yesterday. Upon inspection, the heating element was charred. I checked for lint and there was no build up. However, when I ran it not connected the wall, hot air was coming out of the top where the heating element is but not out of the exhaust tube at the bottom of the dryer. The wheel is good and spinning. Help…
Yeah, definitely wouldn’t continue running the dryer until you got it fixed. It could be something less common like the blower fan has broken loose from the motor. If it’s not blowing air out the back, that’s a pretty big problem.
I have whirlpool cabrio dryer and there is no heat , I checked fuse , high limit thermostat , heating element and found out that operating thermostat on the left side under the thermal fuse does not have continuity. So that means I have to get new operating thermostat only? Please give me your advice. I saw this video and looks like that is the problem. I did watch other videos too but they all are talking about replacing high limit thermostat and heating elements. That is why I am asking you. Pleas give me advice. Thanks so much.
That’s an odd part to go out. They do go bad but not very often. I would get the kit that has all the thermostats and fuses. I have a link for one from Amazon in the description. You can probably skip getting the heating element. I think it’s best to replace all those parts if they are inexpensive. They are all designed to prevent fires and if one has failed it’s probably best to go ahead and replace the others if it’s only going to cost a few extra dollars.
I don’t but it was pretty simple. I found the right gauge extension cord at Lowe’s. I think it was for a motorhome. It was not solid wire so I had to Solder the ends to be able to put in the breaker. I remember it was pretty expensive but it was long enough to make two decent size extension cords for a dryer.
Usually that’s a power problem or a poor connection. Be sure to have a professional check that out and stop using the dryer. Sometimes it’s a simple as replacing the outlet because the connection is not tight enough from age.
@@WasherDryerMoney I overlooked the heating element it was heating so I overlooked it after rechecking there was a break drawing more Amp. All is good. Thanks
I did this test on my dryer, Top vented admiral Agd4475tq1, I get to 155 degrees exactly. it will drop to 125 & cycle back on up to 155.. Its a gas dryer
Trying to figure out what is going on with my Kenmore electric dryer. When it's cold (sat overnight or longer not being used) it will turn off by itself most of the time about 1 minute after starting it. It can't possibly be overheating as it is barely warm when I restart it. After restarting it (just have to push start button again) it will run perfectly fine and not turn off again. What could it be? I cleaned all the lint out of it and the airflow outside is fine. I may just replace the thermostat as it also seems to be taking longer to dry a load. Curious what your thoughts are. Thanks!
Yeah that’s weird. I know Kenmore elite‘s were made for a long time and some are older like the one I’m demonstrated with with the filter that comes out the top. If it’s a newer one it could have something to do with the digital Control board and I’m definitely not an expert on how to fix that. Any appliance that has a digital board that controls it never underestimate the power of unplugging it for 10 minutes and then plugging it back in to see if something resets. It’s a lot like a cell phone when you restart it when it’s acting weird and all the sudden it’s fixed. Good luck
@@WasherDryerMoney Thanks for the quick reply - Its an older model - late 1990's so not fancy at all. Model 11068942891. I had it unplugged for a good hour when I cleaned the lint out of it so back to the drawing board... I just turned it on - it ran for about 10 seconds then turned off. Hit the start button again and it came right back on and stayed running. Its very weird indeed.
That’s strange. I’m not sure it would be hard to tell without being there in person. There’s lots of Appliance Repair groups on Facebook and some are really great. Be sure to join some and shoot some video and photos of what the problem exactly is.
I’m supposed to be focused on dryers but I fix garage doors during the day and can’t help but notice the Wayne dalton garage door on the left and clopay garage door on the right 😂
I got those doors from a salvage store. I think I paid like $200 for them. I figured they would be really dented or missing parts but they were both in perfect shape.
The low limit thermostat is at the very end of the airflow line. Meaning it’s at the tail pipe. If a dryer is stopped up and not pushing air by very quickly it will overheat starting from the heating element than the drum then the fan then the tail pipe where the low limit thermostat sets. Basically by time the low limit thermostat knows about the overheating the rest of the dryer has already been overheating and popping thermal fuses.
I have no power on my dryer. Whirlpool cabrio digital . All fuses check good. Power from outlet is 120 and 240 on the sides and middle and to the back of dryer cord connect. Seems like no power cause my green digital lights are not coming on when pressing power button.
it could be the fuse that goes to the motor has popped. Usually when those go out it is because of a lack of airflow which is from being stopped up with land or a bent exhaust line.
Here’s a real test for all you diagnostic guys out there. I have a basic Maytag electric dryer less than 5 years old that keeps blowing the fuse at the fusebox. The dryer is getting power and it lights off just fine and gets hot. It runs for approx 10-15 mins then blows the breaker. I have watched approx 12 videos including this one on how to diagnose the various switches, thermistor, thermostat and parts inside the back service panel. I have used the multimeter to test all those parts and I am getting continuity on everything. What could be causing this thing to blow the breaker???
I have replaced all 3 thermostats and heating element. My dryer is still pushing out 180 degrees and then the element stops (like it should). What else could my issue be?
If the dryer top feels warm this usually means there is a clog in the exhaust system. Either near the fan or in the exhaust pipe going out of the house. Check that first because that will make the temperature act crazy if it doesn’t have enough airflow.
Had a bad heating element... replaced heating element and now drum won’t turn but hums and heating element keeps kicking on and off without dryer being turned on (it is plugged in). The heating element keeps cycling even with door open
That’s really weird. The motor not running may be a separate problem. The heating element coming on while the door is open usually means that the wire on the heating element is touching the frame of the dryer. The dryer making a buzzing noise when you go to start it usually means the motor is going out. Or the belt is stuck on the idler pulley. Strange it would be two problems happening at once. Definitely the heating element being on when the door is open is it dangerous be careful.
Maytag SDE4606AYH. Suddenly started running very hot unless set to air fluff. (Has continuously variable temperature control) Filter is clean, airflow (set to fluff) feels great (checked at vent outdoors.) Lower back and sides are all one piece "U" shape metal -- how to access thermostats and thermistor?
Could be a grounded heating element. I have a video on that. Basically means the heating element broke and touched the frame of the dryer, making it stay on.
@@WasherDryerMoney Ok, thanks for the reply. Wouldn't a shorted-to-chassis- ground heating element show up as a high voltage on the chassis or a ground point on the chassis if I interrupt the connection to the service entrance ground? (This would not be hard to do as it's an old house and I have run a separate heavy ground wire.) Obviously I'd have to be very careful not to touch any metal part of the dryer while testing this. No fuses are blown / blowing. This dryer has a one piece rear and sides panel. I'll have to look for a vid on accessing the interior...
Hi WD Guy, I have a Kenmore gas dryer , model 11070982290. The dryer works but is pretty hot and the lower temperature settings do not work. Any idea what the problem is?
I’m not an expert on gas dryers. They’re just not popular in my area. Join the Facebook group “Appliance repair help and questions” there’s lots of great Appliance Repair guys in that group that will give you free advice if you post the model number and tell them what the problem is exactly in a post.
Question: I have replaced the low limit fuse twice already. My dryer worked fine after the 1st replacement for almost a year. The 2nd time I replaced it, it only worked for part of one cycle. What would you recommend be my next step in fixing my dryer? I've already replaced it a third time and the dryer is working fine, but I'm afraid that it's not going to last long.
More than likely it’s going to be a airflow issue. 90% of the problem with dryers is lint buildup around the fan housing or in the exhaust hose. Check out my other videos I just made one recently on doing a complete length clean out. It’s also very dangerous to have lint buildup in a dryer because length is extremely flammable. If a fuse is blowing it’s usually for a reason.
Frigidaire affinity dryer keeps burning out heating element I’ve replace 4x in 6 months vent is not clogged when I did element also did thermostat and hi limit
Some of the Frigidaires had a spot in the actual drum that would climb up with went and would go unnoticed. It’s similar to how a GE dryer works there is a breathing area in the back of the drum that would fill up with lint. Look through the drum into the back and see if there’s little holes that are filled up with Lent. If that is not it check the filter itself. Sometimes these will get a waxy film build up on them. This usually happens from dryer sheets. The holes will get clogged up with this wax and make it much harder to breathe. Some of the Frigidaire dryers were put out with a fabric filter instead of metal and they have a tendency to get clogged up super easily. A quick way to jack ass put your hand behind the dryer and see if it’s blowing hard enough or just feel the dryer if it’s getting warm on the actual frame it’s not getting airflow somewhere.
Make sure you’re dryer duct is swept out good, and call a appliance repair place, and get the thermostat/thermal fuse kit. It’s about $40 dollars ballpark. It could be that the thermostat is busted and not regulating correctly.
This is a great answer. I have another video on cleaning out the lint from this type of dryer. There’s usually a massive buildup around the fan. But be sure to unplug the dryer and do not use it until it is fixed.
My dryer was i felt way too hot clothes shrank to much I thought maybe it was just some kind of stuff related to being maybe a little old a couple times when I dried clothing I could see like smoke but didn’t smell like burnt just cloudy kinda when I went outside came in I could see it eventually me day I finished drying one took the load out and than put in the next one luckily I was in the room putting another load in the washed it started smoking black smoke I could see like red light coming out the gaps so it was really hot I turned off but than it came on I haven’t used it since but I don’t have money to buy one as of now could you please reply kinda telling what you might think it is it spins and obviously heats till that point I have not turned it on since since if something was to keep burning I don’t have quick access to the main power line
I would definitely not turn the dryer on again unless you were 100% sure you have it fixed obviously. Besides that my thought would be it is clogged up with Lint. You’ll definitely need to turn the power off to the dryer to clean all the lint out of it. Frigidaires have a weird spot that Lent gets built up in on the drama itself. You’ll see there’s a stainless steel piece when you look inside the dryer and length will get built up around it. It’s very difficult to get it out and the bigger problem is that is right where the heating element is and can easily catch fire. Besides that place you need to also get all the one unit that’s built up under the drum out. And double check the vent pipe is not bent or full of lint. The other concerning thing is that the dryer did not automatically shut off there are safety fuses built into all dryers that will shut them off when they get too hot and not allow the dryer to come back on until the fuse is replaced. For some reason your dryer is not shutting off which is very concerning. Please be careful and you really may want to pay someone to come out and clean it out for you or just get another used dryer and check the vent pipe going out of the house. I’ve lived through a housefire and trust me it is a true nightmare be careful.
Could be the operating thermostat has gone bad and is allowing the temperature to get to high. I've also seen filters get a residue on them. When this happens it looks clean until you look very closely at the screen. This fine build up on the filter makes it much more difficult for the dryer to control the temperature.
It’s extremely likely that your issue is lint buildup in the fan housing or In the exhaust hose. I have a video that will walk you step-by-step through how to fix it. th-cam.com/video/mDS5MCb7m_c/w-d-xo.html I would not run the dryer until you get it fixed it’s very dangerous because lint buildup is the number one cause of dryer fires. After you get the lint cleaned out it’s going to dry like it’s new again.
Hey Dryer Guy, I love your advice! I did what you said to clean my lent out of my ge dryer. Your sequence of screws was most helpful and accurate! Now, I got everything clean and reattached. It quit running after about 3 minutes. There was a bit of a burning smell. What is going on!!???
If the dryer had lint buildup a lot of times it will have a stopped up vent pipe going out of the house. If you smells up and you may want to unplug it and take it back apart and doublecheck that everything is ok.
@@WasherDryerMoney Hi sir, My Kenmore dryer suddenly stopped working it overheated bad enough that when you touch the machine it's burning and the clothes had fumes coming out of them. So after that if i pressed start nothing would happen so i changed the thermal fuse and it started working again but in the 2nd drying cycle it overheated again and shutoff. So now i know ill need to replace the thermal fuse but that theres another problem for sure. The Cycling thermostat button is acting weird as the button ends up in other positions then it should. My machine is only around 3 years old so i think it probably worth repairing it but now i wonder which parts i need to buy. I already have a new Thermal Cutoff Kit 279973 at home that i might try but since the Thermostat button is weird now im even more confused what to buy and not just end up buyign piece that i blow up everytime i start the machine lol
What would you do for a dryer that gets too hot to the touch while the door is open? It is a kenmore 600 series dryer. The lint trap and exhaust vent have been cleaned out as well
If the dryer is getting hot while is the door is open this usually means The heating element wire is touching the wall of the dryer. You can look up videos on dryer heating element Grounded, you will see example videos and that’s what I’m talking about. If this is your problem be sure to fix it this is a very dangerous problem.
Found many junk dryers that only needed thermo fuse. Lint clog was also a top fail issue. Fun hobby with $10k net. Best way to clear lint loaded dryer: pull apart outside, cover electrical and blast with water, air hose dry on warm day.
@@WasherDryerMoney Warm Dry CA weather make water flush better with no nasty dust to deal with. Full dry within 1 hr. All good, they sell fast, easy pocket change fun hobby.
Sounds like the motor is going bad. Could be something else but usually when I drive overheats it either won’t run at all or the fuse to the heating element will blow and it will not heat. When it is running for a while and then turns off that’s usually a sign of a motor going bad.
Great video, thanks. I have been doing this diagnosis with my multimeter with the temperature probe attachment. On Whirlpool models with the lint screen on top I can slide my temperature probe down the backside of the lint screen opposite the fan and get it close to the blower fan
That’s a very good idea.
THANK YOU! This is the only video I've found that explains the function and purpose of each of the components: cycling thermostat, high(er)-limit thermostat, and thermal cut-off fuses. I appreciate the very clear explanation.
Love your channel i learn how to fix all the stuff in my house because of TH-cam cant ever wait for appliances to break
Lol
Repair videos is what most search for. Thumbs up
Just want to say a BIG thank you for your videos. I took apart my dryer, thoroughly cleaned it and successfully got it to work again. It still got super hot on top, not hot enough to cook an egg, I tried it and videod it. Ha ha. But my external vent had an inch of lint build up from previous owners. OMG, I'm doing a load of laundry now and hoping my dryer doesn't overheat anymore and it dries the clothes in less than 1 hour. I'll still hang my clothes to dry just to save on money and energy use. Thanks again! From a Handy Single Mom
Glad to help. Not sure I completely understand but if you are saying it is still getting warm on top that is incorrect and it is still stopped up somewhere. A good way to check is feel how hard the dryer blows when it’s disconnected from the wall and then reconnect it to the wall and walk outside and see if it’s blowing the same amount.
Good luck and be safe and be sure not to run a dryer if it feels like it’s getting hot on top.
@@WasherDryerMoney the pancake of lint was definitely the last issue that resolved the hot top. My dryer is golden now! Thx again.
Hello, loved this video. I have a 1990 Kenmore dryer Model 11086878100 that is running too hot. I have replaced the lower cycle thermostat and then did your thermometer trick into the exhaust hose. My temp went over 200 degree F but the heating element did not shut off. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for this awesome video. I have an older (~2010) standard GE dryer, that has seemingly been way too hot during low heat settings. Shrinking some clothes, things seem crazy hot even when on low setting. My numbers are a bit different when doing this test, I am chalking up to differences between brands/models. I am seeing the "low" setting thermostat click off at around 126 degF, but (maybe due to feeding heat back in as you did) drifting to about 134 degF. Conversely, I'm seeing the "high" setting thermostat click off at around 130 degF, drifting to about 138 degF. This seems awfully close/similar in range. I'm also only seeing one thermostat listed in the parts list for this dryer. I'm going to keep digging, but thanks for the great video!
Thanks I learned a lot. My dryer does not have all those fuses and thermostat only 2 I believe. The owners manual specifies one one of them the temperature does not cut off till 220 degrees Wow! Is that the high limit One? It's not the cycling one .
Good video with very nice explanation of the different elements of the dryer. This gave me an idea for my project. I'm trying to kill termites and/or ensure that there are no termites, in wood furniture and cabinets.
They can be eradicated with excessive heat so I've sectioned off a 2' x 6' section of my garage with Poly Styrofoam foil faced insulation panels. I'll put the furniture/cabinets in that room and heat it. I need the cabinets to get to a minimum of 130 degrees to kill everything off.
I got an old dryer and ducted the vent into the room to heat it. My initial tests only got the room to about 110 or so. After watching your video, I decided to remove the lower limit thermostat from the duct in hopes that the heating element would stay on longer. After removing the lower limit thermostat, I was able to get the temperature up to 140 in 15 minutes and after an hour, just above 160 so hopefully that will get the core temp of the wood to at least 130 and solve my termite problem without having to throw away the wood cabinets!
My thinking is that I'll still have some safety margin available with the high limit and fuse links although I am monitoring it while it is running, just to ensure nothing lights up.
Thanks for the video!
Interesting. Definitely standing watch with a fire extinguisher LOL
look into Ozone machines to kill termites. My brother is looking into that now.
Thanks for the explantation of the sequence of the safety features. It cleared things up for me. I have an older Kenmore dryer that stopped turning on about a month ago. I didn't have a multimeter or any real experience repairing appliances to rule anything out. But I ended up replacing the door switch, didn't help obviously. Further research told me that it was probably the thermal fuse. I bought a cheap multimeter and bought a new a thermal fuse. The fuse tested bad and actually looked a little melted near the contacts. I also cleaned my dryer vent out with a leaf blower, it was clogged after at least four years of neglect, my fault. The dryer started and ran but I realized there was no heat. Testing showed me that the high limit cutoff was bad. I actually tested that theory by bypassing the cutoff and the heating element turned on. I learned that I could reset the cutoff by smacking it on the ground a few times. That worked temporarily and I ordered a new high limit cutoff and a thermostat. Dryer worked great for about a week and the high limit cutoff blew again. Thought maybe it was just a dud and got another set on eBay. Same result after a few days. Bought the Whirlpool set this time to replace it again, same result after a few days. I did test the timer and it seemed good. Also added some foam weather stripping around the blower to replace the dry rotted seal. So after watching your video i'm suspecting that the low limit thermostat has probably been bad this whole time and is causing the high limit cutoff to blow. I'm going to check it out tomorrow but i'm frustrated and my wife is annoyed about having a dryer full of wet clothes. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
There's a very good chance that it is stopped up the housing for the filter. Take it all the way off and check it. Also check the filter itself sometimes there will be a very fine lin build up on the screen.
Another thing to check is heating element may be grounded making it stay on constantly. I have a video on this problem. I'll put a link to it
th-cam.com/video/hqxf25QzmDo/w-d-xo.html
@@WasherDryerMoney Took the housing for the filter off and it was clear. I'd previously washed the lint trap and it looked clear. Low heat thermostat tests good for continuity. Heating element did not look grounded to the housing. Coil did not look broken anywhere. High limit cut off tested bad again. Smacked it on the ground a few times and I have heat again for now. Kind of stumped. It is noisy when running. Not sure if bad rollers or something else could be the culprit.
@@MHobbs06 most of the time thermal fuses blow because of Air Flow Restriction. Check the pipe form the back of machine to the outside of the house.
I did an experiment. I unhooked the dryer vent and bypassed the high limit cutoff by taping the wires together. The dryer seemed to heat up to about 170°F and cycle like it should. I can hear the low limit thermostat clicking on and off. I put the high limit cut off back in after "resetting" it by smacking it on the ground a few times, the heating element cut off at about 113°F. The high limit cut off showed no continuity. So that should have eliminated any ventilation issues since it was venting in the laundry room and it still blew. I think I'm going to order another high limit cut off/thermostat set and see what happens. But I'm not sure if it'd just be a waste of money or not.
I did like the lesson, but I really wanted to know what temperature is on low, medium, high, and max. I have a Frigidaire Affinity thanks
I have the same question. When you are testing the temps what setting? Low, med or high?
Hi, thanks for the video. Really cool to learn so much about how dryers work. I found your video while trying to learn how to adjust my dryer temperature down, specifically in the low setting. I don't have a lot of confidence that the low setting is much, if any, different from the medium or even high setting on my Maytag dryer. The clothes feel too hot for low. Can you refer me to another video that may address this specifically? Or do you have suggestions? Thanks so much.
great video I have a Maytag Centennial gas dryer ,everything starts up fine ,heats up ,once reaches a certain temperature, which is very hot, timer stops advancing and dryer shuts off
I’m not super familiar with the gas dryers. They’re not popular in my area. My first guess would be to make sure it’s not stopped up with Tint.
Be careful overheating dryers are very dangerous.
The contacts are sticking or welding together, not what I would call going out but easy to replace. It also keeps the timer from advancing, which also has heater contacts that can stick or weld together but can sometimes be filed flat and lubed with a little vaseline but may go bad later.
What if you keep blowing the thermal fuse....
great vid. my problem is a hotpoint gas dryer runs about 15 min then shuts off and gets kind of hot. any suggestion would be appreciated. thank you.
Sorry I don’t really work on gas. They’re not very popular in my area.
Should there be different temps observed for different heat settings on the machine (low, medium, high)?
They should be but they’re not humongous differences between the temperatures on some dryers. Sometimes only a few degrees.
Thank you sir you explained the system very well bless you ! 😊
Thank you for this! I'm having the cycling temp higher and higher issue as you described. However, I want to make sure my temperature selector switch isn't faulty in case it's actually what's causing the cycling thermostat issue. Would you possibly be able to share how to test the switch using a multimeter?
Great channel👍….our whirlpool dryer suddenly stopped working normally. When the dryer is shut off, it continues to heat up…unable to turn off the heat with the timer dial? Also unable to turn dryer back on with the push switch? The only way to turn off the heat is to pull the power plug…Do you have any idea what parts I need to order? Thanks for your advice.
I have a Whirpool gas dryer, the dryer will not advance in auto dry high or low heat but It will in timed dry. I replaced the timer with a used one and the thermostat has been replaced. Someone spoke about a possible bad resistor but I can't find it.
I need the info on the kit please
Is the dryer thermostat supposed to cycle the heater element of and on
I have a a dryer gets really hot you can see the heater inside red hot that I burned my hand on the drum y doesn't it Trip the safety fuse? You can smell it burning inside the drum . thanks 👍
Was wondering my dryer is around 2 years old it's over heating and has a burning over the interior vent what should I be looking for?
Hi thanks for the content,
On a D6480 Hoover TDryer, the one with the simple dual heat/timer control, the dryer is only warming, i don't think the hot cylce is working even though the dryer is working, how do i test the controler or is there anything else i can check, the element has 2 wires so i assume it has a potentiometer in the controler and the element tests 37ohms ok, both thermoststs/temp cont test ok too, (cold that is)
cheers
I have a GE dryer. Ventilation is good, but it likes to shut off after a few minutes and the back of the machine near the heater gets too hot to touch. My guess is a thermostat, how would I know which one?
Not 100% sure. Definitely a dangerous situation if the dryer is overheating to the point where it’s shutting off.
GE dryer’s have a weird spot where they build up Lint. Look inside the door there is a stainless steel round plate on the back of the drum. Lint will build up to the point where it cannot flow properly behind that stainless steel plate. That would be my only guess. It’s always hard to figure these things out when I’m not in front of the machine.
So there is 2 heating elements, the tall vertical one on the right and a small one by the fan? I removed the back on mine + the lint & fan guard tried running mine and noticed the air leaving the macine was room temp despite the vertical heating element going on & off. I'm guessing I need to re-try this but with the lint/fan guard.
My dryer is taking more than one cycle to dry clothes leaving them damp. I’ve changed the gas solenoids the flame sensor and every limit and thermostat on back. The belt is new the rollers are new and I’ve taken it completely apart cleaned the lint trap duct on the unit the blower wheel and the exhaust duct going outside. Any suggestions because I’m all out. Nothing is obstructed and it’s all clean. Seems like the inside of the dryer is no getting hot enough. Both screens inside the dryer where the heat enters the drum are also both clean and not obstructed.
We replaced the whole kit for dryer. dryer gets to hot and shuts off again. can the thermostat be wired backwards maybe or would it be more to do with being clogged up?
I have a Kenmore dryer model 68102 that only reaches 110 degrees at the exhaust outlet, based off your video I should be seeing about 175 max, should I replace both high limit and low limit thermostats to correct this issue thanks
my 700 kenmore dryer thermal cut off is burnt, I changed a new one few minutes later it burn again, I change the other new on but few minutes later it burn again. I stop here and need your help.
Thanks.
Hi I just changed all my. thermostats and cleaned out my fan housing and ductwork and my dryer is still getting super hot any ideas
Thank You so so much for sharing your expertise with us. You not only addressed my concern by demonstrating in a thorough manner. One question though:
If a new thermostat is faulty will it still register good in the multimeter or not. Might be a silly question but I'm a novice in this field and trying to cover all my basis in this regard.
Again Thank You
Art Borquez
Yes it is very hard to tell if a thermostat is not working with a multi meter. It’s best if you have any questions just to replace it. There are kits on Amazon to replace all the sensors for a very affordable prices. When in doubt replace it.
I just bought a used Whirlpool. I shop vacuumed the hole in the back before attaching the vent hose but the hose was kinked because it’s too long.
I ran one cycle to test it and right before the cool down portion of the cycle it shut off. Dryer was hot to the touch.
This was last night. It’s cool today but will not start in any setting.
If the dryer is hot to the touch, definitely don’t turn it on again. It’s going to be stopped up somewhere. When a dryer cannot exhale, air out the regular exhaust vent, it will start pushing air around the drum into the cavity of the dryer itself.
More than likely, the thermal fuse has blown. It’s a cheap part.
It’s designed to shut the dryer off when it overheats. It’s not a resettable part. It has to be replace.
@@WasherDryerMoney I shortened the hose so there’s no kinks. Took off the back and checked for build-ups, there weren’t any. Tested the fuse/operating thermostat/high heat thermometer and had resistance at all 3 spots. Heating element wasn’t grounded out. Plugged it in and it worked. Ran a cycle with a few shirts and then opened the door, the drum was turning. Let it continue and, like before, 3/4 through the cycle it shut-off and won’t turn back on again. Only difference this time was that it wasn’t hot to the touch.
Thanks for your videos! I have a question. I am using the thermometer as shown in this video. I note that the “low” thermostat consistently cuts off heating coils at 165F, but as soon as temp cools to 142F, the dryer turns off. Do you have any thoughts on what causes this behavior?
Different dryers could use different thermostats. There’s also some dryers that have settings that will bounce between two temperatures for more delicate clothes. It could also be a thermostat going bad. Thermostats are cheap so when in doubt replace it.
Any idea why the plastic housing to the high limit fuse would burn and melt? Took it completely off now but wondering if I need it?
I have a GE that I replaced the heating element , DCXR463EAOWW, and now I notice that the heating element comes on without using the start switch, also it stays on when I open the door, I have to turn it off with the timer. Timer bad? WE4 M188,
Where did you by the extension cord for testing dryers? I am tired of having to move my dryer to test other ones. Also what is your set up when testing washers.
My older cabrio will work for bout 3/4 of the cycle then shut off. Wait ten minutes and hit start and if finishes cycle. What should I be looking fo?
GE heating element is more complex and expensive, is that why you didn't use GE for vid? thx
What would be the issue if it overheats with a new cycling thermostat? Air duct is cleared and hose is blowing good. Keeps burning the fuse.
I am also having this issue. I have changed all my sensors and replaced the timer only to blow a thermal fuse every 2-3 months. Not a speck of lint in the dryer. Only thing left i can think of is heating element is bad itself. Or the blower unit isn't working as well as it should.
@@Liam_Tomhet it turned out to be my high limit thermostat.
I have a 35 year old Maytag electric dryer. It has push buttons for two heat settings, Delicate and Regular. With clothes in the dryer, the Delicate setting ran between 130-136 degrees at the lint filter once warmed up. The Regular setting ran between 117-122 degrees. No, I didn't get that backwards! The Delicate setting is actually running hotter than the Regular setting! My other issue is that when the dryer is on automatic dry, the buzzer no longer sounds when the clothes are dry. Any ideas? Thanks!
Could you show your work station and how you built them?
I just moved so I don’t have a shop set up right now.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, bro. 😎
Glad to help
I had a tested all the fuses in the dryer and then continuity but it keeps on throwing the breaker
My dryer temperature went to 175, I heard the click, and then it dropped. I did notice the heating element was glowing red. The metal piece with the holes in it that are inside the dryer in front of the heating element have changed color over the years. It's darker. Is that normal?
I've changed the thermal fuse and the one next to it that helps heat the dryer and it's still blowing cold air..I've taken it completely apart no lint on the inside or the motor but still only cold
Be sure to check that you’re getting full power to the dryer. If the dryer is getting only half power “which is a very common problem to happen” The drum will turn but the heating element will not come on. The heating element is 220 the motor that runs the drum and fan is 110. So if your 220 plug is getting half power it will only turn the fan on and turn the drum not the heating element.
This may not be a problem but definitely something you should check before digging too deep into the dryer.
@@WasherDryerMoney thanks I'll check it out asap and hopefully i can report back with some good news
I need help with my whirlpool dryer all cycles work except for automatic it don’t shut off on automatic
I have a Samsung Dryer never model with touch pad. It’s giving me the HC error code and I’ve replaced the fuse and thermostat. It runs for about 5 secs and then giving the HC code. Any idea?
Great video! My maytag is turning off mid cycle then only works if you hold the start button. If you let it rest it will run for a while again. Drum is turning and the vents are completely clean. Any ideas?
Possibly motor going bad. Hard to tell If I’m not there to test it.
@@WasherDryerMoney I had a ton of lint buildup on it since I've never opened it up to clean that part. I ordered another motor. Hope that fixes the problem.
My dryer does not go through the cycles it stays hot and the timer stays on 1 minute and does not go to o and the cloths are hot. I feel I have one of the hookups hooked up wrong, like the thermostat.
My gas dryer has blown 3 igniters. Do you have any idea what the issue could be? I also replaced the flame sensor. Dryer is an Amanda gas dryer NGD4655EW
nailed it good demo
Thanks
2 things: A:) Dryer definitely heating over 181⁰F. Explains why I keep blowing the thermal fuse above the low limit thermostat. I will replace the low limit thermostat.
B.) The heating element is turning on during the "fluff" mode. Even on when air temp at exhaust is 180+⁰F. What is the deal there? Whirlpool WED5321SQ0.
Figured it out. A tiny part of the heating element coil was touching part of the duct. Basically the heating element was grounded. I took off the coil assembly. The part of the coil touching the duct was slightly welded to it. It kind of stretched and deformed before it "popped loose" as I was removing the assembly. I reshaped the coil and positioned it so it would not touch the duct when reinstalled. Everything is now working normally (except my high limit thermal fuse was blown - I had a new one on hand). Back in business and wife is happy.
great info thank you practical usable
Do you know of any vid showing disassembly of a model SDE4606AYH or similar Maytag electric dryer? I've never had any trouble getting into any dryer, but, THIS one has a construction I've never seen before. Basically, the sides and rear are all one piece (except for the back panel behind the controls.) That forms a giant "C" as viewed from above, standing on the left side of the dryer. None of the other panels seem to pop apart -- everything that starts to separate seems to have a screw behind it or is interlocked. Trying to pry to "pop the top" from the front is beginning to bend the metal. There are screws along the bottom of the "C", but I can't see that taking them out gets me into the dryer chassis. How the heck does this thing come apart?
Answered you in the newest video. But I couldn’t find anything on it. Sorry.
Mine heats up intermittently. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Could it be the cycling thermostat? I've got a low operating temp thermostat, a high one and a cycling high temp. Thanks for the info!
Intermittently heating usually is caused by the timer. If you look at my videos you’ll see I have a video on bed timers.
Timers are usually pretty easy to check. Unplug the dryer and open the timer and see if it has burn marks on the electrical contacts.
@@WasherDryerMoney Wow, thanks for that! I had a tech take a look at it and he thought it might be the timer, but he didn't check it. I'll take the control box apart and pull out the timer. I was told my dryer is around 20 years old. I bought it used and have had it running for many years, so I wouldn't be surprised. :) Going to check your timer video!
Is this the one you were referring to? "How to Mail-in Refurbished Fried Dryer timer for just $29 Fix for Kenmore, Whirlpool, Estate, Roper" Thanks!
th-cam.com/video/GiVEZJph1jM/w-d-xo.html
@@squirrelattackspidy you can sometimes get another timer on eBay for a reasonable price. Be sure if you order a timer that has the exact same numbers and the letter at the end of The apart number.
There used to be a guy on eBay that you could mail the timer to and he would refurbish it.
I’m not sure if he still doing it.
Good luck
@@WasherDryerMoney Thanks for that! I found a guy on Ebay who was selling the same part number as what I've been finding on dryer part stores based on my model number, but I don't know if it's down to the same suffix as my unit.
@@squirrelattackspidy I have bought one before that had a different letter at the end and I had to swap the center cam out because the off positions were not in the same places. It really wasn’t that big a deal to swap the plastic cam in a center out.
It could be that some of the letters are the same and I just happen to get one that wasn’t exactly the same. Who knows.
Ever since it happened to me I always make sure I buy one with the right letter at the end just to make it an easier replacement.
My high limit fuse (the top one) keeps going out on me, and I don't understand why... I've replaced all but the bottom thermostat... the wire to my higher thermostat (one on the bottom) was actually melted! I rewired it and have been trying to keep an eye on it to see if it gets warm but it seems my top thermostat, the high limit fuse(one on the top) keeps blowing.... I'm stumped
Check for airflow problems. Open up the fan housing and see if it’s full of lint and check if the exhaust vent hose is 100% clean of lint.
Thanks for the info. I have a Maytag 4000 dryer and I am getting an F22 error about a minute after cycle start. I am reading it can be the thermistor. Something I did is I kept restarting the cycle for about 20 minutes. What I noticed is that the clothes were extremely hot. Any advice on what these symptoms mean?
First thing to check when clothes are overheating is if the dryer is exhausting air freely. A lot of times it will be something simple like the exhaust hose going out of the house will be stopped up or bent. Sometimes it will be a little more difficult and it will be stopped up inside of the dryer near the Fan. I would check that first and if that’s not it I would go with your research and replace one part at a time until you find the problem. Good luck.
My new Beko is very hot but an engineer from the company on the phone just said it was normal . They are not checking it.
My Dryer calls for a Wp3387134 which is a 155 degree Cycling T-stat. My question is do they make or can I install a Higher Temp T-stat to run the dryer a little hotter?
I like your videos but I seem to have a GE Hotpoint dryer that is unlike any I have seen in the videos. It is a model htk21eask0ww, and I have downloaded the service manuals but they are not very clear. I need to re-attach the exhaust hose on the inside but can not figure out how to do that without disassembling the entire dryer.The manual I have tells how to attach he exhaust vent but not how to access to do it. Are you familiar with this models of similar ones?
If the pipe is undone from the inside of the dryer blower wheel you will have to more than likely open the entire dryer up and remove the drum to get to that spot unless it just pushes on and has no keeper that you have to put on it. I’m not a super expert on GE dryer‘s but from what I remember I believe there was at least a screw that held it to the blower.
I have a Whirlpool model Wed49stbw1. After about 25 minutes of running it will shut off and you can press Start to restart it but soon as you let off button it shuts off. If I hold button it will run no problem. What is causing this ?
Will it cause issues if I put a 240v cycling thermostat to replace a 120v?
You should definitely not use the wrong part. Dryers are very dangerous machines. There’s a lot of centers and fuses designed to keep the machine from catching on fire. Be careful.
I’ve replaced the heating element once already, as well as all of the other fuses, but the dryer stopped heating again yesterday. Upon inspection, the heating element was charred. I checked for lint and there was no build up. However, when I ran it not connected the wall, hot air was coming out of the top where the heating element is but not out of the exhaust tube at the bottom of the dryer. The wheel is good and spinning. Help…
Yeah, definitely wouldn’t continue running the dryer until you got it fixed. It could be something less common like the blower fan has broken loose from the motor. If it’s not blowing air out the back, that’s a pretty big problem.
I have whirlpool cabrio dryer and there is no heat , I checked fuse , high limit thermostat , heating element and found out that operating thermostat on the left side under the thermal fuse does not have continuity. So that means I have to get new operating thermostat only? Please give me your advice. I saw this video and looks like that is the problem. I did watch other videos too but they all are talking about replacing high limit thermostat and heating elements. That is why I am asking you. Pleas give me advice. Thanks so much.
That’s an odd part to go out. They do go bad but not very often. I would get the kit that has all the thermostats and fuses.
I have a link for one from Amazon in the description. You can probably skip getting the heating element. I think it’s best to replace all those parts if they are inexpensive. They are all designed to prevent fires and if one has failed it’s probably best to go ahead and replace the others if it’s only going to cost a few extra dollars.
Thanks for getting back to me quickly.
did you buy, or make that power extension cord?
I made it.
@@WasherDryerMoney Do you have a video showing how you made it?
I don’t but it was pretty simple. I found the right gauge extension cord at Lowe’s. I think it was for a motorhome. It was not solid wire so I had to Solder the ends to be able to put in the breaker.
I remember it was pretty expensive but it was long enough to make two decent size extension cords for a dryer.
be sure to join the Facebook group appliance flippers United. You can get all kinds of great info from those guys.
@@WasherDryerMoney Great group. Everyone has been helping me with my newbie questions.
have you had any problem with the outlet getting too hot.
Usually that’s a power problem or a poor connection. Be sure to have a professional check that out and stop using the dryer.
Sometimes it’s a simple as replacing the outlet because the connection is not tight enough from age.
@@WasherDryerMoney I overlooked the heating element it was heating so I overlooked it after rechecking there was a break drawing more Amp. All is good. Thanks
I did this test on my dryer, Top vented admiral Agd4475tq1, I get to 155 degrees exactly. it will drop to 125 & cycle back on up to 155.. Its a gas dryer
P.S. Thats on High setting...The clothes do dry...Is this to low? or correct?
Why is it throwing the breaker :-)
Trying to figure out what is going on with my Kenmore electric dryer. When it's cold (sat overnight or longer not being used) it will turn off by itself most of the time about 1 minute after starting it. It can't possibly be overheating as it is barely warm when I restart it. After restarting it (just have to push start button again) it will run perfectly fine and not turn off again. What could it be? I cleaned all the lint out of it and the airflow outside is fine. I may just replace the thermostat as it also seems to be taking longer to dry a load. Curious what your thoughts are. Thanks!
Yeah that’s weird. I know Kenmore elite‘s were made for a long time and some are older like the one I’m demonstrated with with the filter that comes out the top. If it’s a newer one it could have something to do with the digital Control board and I’m definitely not an expert on how to fix that.
Any appliance that has a digital board that controls it never underestimate the power of unplugging it for 10 minutes and then plugging it back in to see if something resets. It’s a lot like a cell phone when you restart it when it’s acting weird and all the sudden it’s fixed. Good luck
@@WasherDryerMoney Thanks for the quick reply - Its an older model - late 1990's so not fancy at all. Model 11068942891. I had it unplugged for a good hour when I cleaned the lint out of it so back to the drawing board... I just turned it on - it ran for about 10 seconds then turned off. Hit the start button again and it came right back on and stayed running. Its very weird indeed.
I have changed the dryer timer 3 times and still won’t advance . It’s a GE junk ! Please help
That’s strange. I’m not sure it would be hard to tell without being there in person.
There’s lots of Appliance Repair groups on Facebook and some are really great. Be sure to join some and shoot some video and photos of what the problem exactly is.
My heat element keeps staying on even on the air dry.
I have replaced all thermostat / fuses 4 pcs total . So not sure wats next
I'm tryin to tackle the same thing and I've read it may be the motor switch but i don't know yet other than a grounded out element
What happens if the heater in the cycling thermostat stops working?
Very rare but it will be stuck on or off. So it will overheat until the back up thermostat kicks in or it will just not heat at all.
I’m supposed to be focused on dryers but I fix garage doors during the day and can’t help but notice the Wayne dalton garage door on the left and clopay garage door on the right 😂
I got those doors from a salvage store. I think I paid like $200 for them.
I figured they would be really dented or missing parts but they were both in perfect shape.
If the dryer is stuffed up causing overheating, why wouldn't that thermostat keep the dryer element off until the heat came down?
The low limit thermostat is at the very end of the airflow line. Meaning it’s at the tail pipe. If a dryer is stopped up and not pushing air by very quickly it will overheat starting from the heating element than the drum then the fan then the tail pipe where the low limit thermostat sets. Basically by time the low limit thermostat knows about the overheating the rest of the dryer has already been overheating and popping thermal fuses.
@@WasherDryerMoney Very good. I understand. Thank you very much.
I have no power on my dryer. Whirlpool cabrio digital . All fuses check good. Power from outlet is 120 and 240 on the sides and middle and to the back of dryer cord connect. Seems like no power cause my green digital lights are not coming on when pressing power button.
it could be the fuse that goes to the motor has popped. Usually when those go out it is because of a lack of airflow which is from being stopped up with land or a bent exhaust line.
@@WasherDryerMoney ok I'll have to check, thank you.
Here’s a real test for all you diagnostic guys out there. I have a basic Maytag electric dryer less than 5 years old that keeps blowing the fuse at the fusebox. The dryer is getting power and it lights off just fine and gets hot. It runs for approx 10-15 mins then blows the breaker. I have watched approx 12 videos including this one on how to diagnose the various switches, thermistor, thermostat and parts inside the back service panel. I have used the multimeter to test all those parts and I am getting continuity on everything. What could be causing this thing to blow the breaker???
Tried replacing the breaker?
@@petestroup4000 a electrician suggested I tighten the terminals inside the junction box. Which I did and so far so good…no blown fuses!
I have replaced all 3 thermostats and heating element. My dryer is still pushing out 180 degrees and then the element stops (like it should). What else could my issue be?
If the dryer top feels warm this usually means there is a clog in the exhaust system. Either near the fan or in the exhaust pipe going out of the house. Check that first because that will make the temperature act crazy if it doesn’t have enough airflow.
Had a bad heating element... replaced heating element and now drum won’t turn but hums and heating element keeps kicking on and off without dryer being turned on (it is plugged in).
The heating element keeps cycling even with door open
That’s really weird.
The motor not running may be a separate problem. The heating element coming on while the door is open usually means that the wire on the heating element is touching the frame of the dryer. The dryer making a buzzing noise when you go to start it usually means the motor is going out. Or the belt is stuck on the idler pulley. Strange it would be two problems happening at once. Definitely the heating element being on when the door is open is it dangerous be careful.
Maytag SDE4606AYH. Suddenly started running very hot unless set to air fluff. (Has continuously variable temperature control) Filter is clean, airflow (set to fluff) feels great (checked at vent outdoors.) Lower back and sides are all one piece "U" shape metal -- how to access thermostats and thermistor?
Could be a grounded heating element. I have a video on that. Basically means the heating element broke and touched the frame of the dryer, making it stay on.
@@WasherDryerMoney Ok, thanks for the reply. Wouldn't a shorted-to-chassis- ground heating element show up as a high voltage on the chassis or a ground point on the chassis if I interrupt the connection to the service entrance ground? (This would not be hard to do as it's an old house and I have run a separate heavy ground wire.) Obviously I'd have to be very careful not to touch any metal part of the dryer while testing this.
No fuses are blown / blowing.
This dryer has a one piece rear and sides panel. I'll have to look for a vid on accessing the interior...
Hi WD Guy, I have a Kenmore gas dryer , model 11070982290. The dryer works but is pretty hot and the lower temperature settings do not work. Any idea what the problem is?
I may have the same issue. Any ideas?
I’m not an expert on gas dryers. They’re just not popular in my area.
Join the Facebook group “Appliance repair help and questions” there’s lots of great Appliance Repair guys in that group that will give you free advice if you post the model number and tell them what the problem is exactly in a post.
Question: I have replaced the low limit fuse twice already. My dryer worked fine after the 1st replacement for almost a year. The 2nd time I replaced it, it only worked for part of one cycle. What would you recommend be my next step in fixing my dryer? I've already replaced it a third time and the dryer is working fine, but I'm afraid that it's not going to last long.
More than likely it’s going to be a airflow issue. 90% of the problem with dryers is lint buildup around the fan housing or in the exhaust hose. Check out my other videos I just made one recently on doing a complete length clean out. It’s also very dangerous to have lint buildup in a dryer because length is extremely flammable. If a fuse is blowing it’s usually for a reason.
Frigidaire affinity dryer keeps burning out heating element I’ve replace 4x in 6 months vent is not clogged when I did element also did thermostat and hi limit
Some of the Frigidaires had a spot in the actual drum that would climb up with went and would go unnoticed. It’s similar to how a GE dryer works there is a breathing area in the back of the drum that would fill up with lint. Look through the drum into the back and see if there’s little holes that are filled up with Lent.
If that is not it check the filter itself. Sometimes these will get a waxy film build up on them. This usually happens from dryer sheets.
The holes will get clogged up with this wax and make it much harder to breathe. Some of the Frigidaire dryers were put out with a fabric filter instead of metal and they have a tendency to get clogged up super easily.
A quick way to jack ass put your hand behind the dryer and see if it’s blowing hard enough or just feel the dryer if it’s getting warm on the actual frame it’s not getting airflow somewhere.
My dryer is clicking the element off right at 180 but the temp rises to 183 according to my thermometer. Is that ok?
That’s getting close to too hot. This could mean it’s clogged up with lint or the thermostat is going out.
My dryer wasnt heating well so I used a multimeter and tested that the thermal fuse was out then I replaced that and now its overheating any help?
Make sure you’re dryer duct is swept out good, and call a appliance repair place, and get the thermostat/thermal fuse kit. It’s about $40 dollars ballpark. It could be that the thermostat is busted and not regulating correctly.
This is a great answer. I have another video on cleaning out the lint from this type of dryer. There’s usually a massive buildup around the fan. But be sure to unplug the dryer and do not use it until it is fixed.
My dryer was i felt way too hot clothes shrank to much I thought maybe it was just some kind of stuff related to being maybe a little old a couple times when I dried clothing I could see like smoke but didn’t smell like burnt just cloudy kinda when I went outside came in I could see it eventually me day I finished drying one took the load out and than put in the next one luckily I was in the room putting another load in the washed it started smoking black smoke I could see like red light coming out the gaps so it was really hot I turned off but than it came on I haven’t used it since but I don’t have money to buy one as of now could you please reply kinda telling what you might think it is it spins and obviously heats till that point I have not turned it on since since if something was to keep burning I don’t have quick access to the main power line
I have a frigidaire dryer model faqe7011lwo
I would definitely not turn the dryer on again unless you were 100% sure you have it fixed obviously. Besides that my thought would be it is clogged up with Lint. You’ll definitely need to turn the power off to the dryer to clean all the lint out of it. Frigidaires have a weird spot that Lent gets built up in on the drama itself. You’ll see there’s a stainless steel piece when you look inside the dryer and length will get built up around it. It’s very difficult to get it out and the bigger problem is that is right where the heating element is and can easily catch fire.
Besides that place you need to also get all the one unit that’s built up under the drum out. And double check the vent pipe is not bent or full of lint.
The other concerning thing is that the dryer did not automatically shut off there are safety fuses built into all dryers that will shut them off when they get too hot and not allow the dryer to come back on until the fuse is replaced. For some reason your dryer is not shutting off which is very concerning. Please be careful and you really may want to pay someone to come out and clean it out for you or just get another used dryer and check the vent pipe going out of the house.
I’ve lived through a housefire and trust me it is a true nightmare be careful.
Great vid man. A little schematic would be real helpful on these, if possible. Keep it up
Thanks
Your awesome
My thermal fuse keeps popping. Everything is cleared and cleaned. Idk what it could be. Any thoughts?
Could be the operating thermostat has gone bad and is allowing the temperature to get to high.
I've also seen filters get a residue on them. When this happens it looks clean until you look very closely at the screen. This fine build up on the filter makes it much more difficult for the dryer to control the temperature.
@@WasherDryerMoney thanks for replying. I put a new lint filter on. I’m going to try a new thermostat. I just got to find the part number.
Hey.. My New Amana Dryer is not hot enough... I hate drying my clothes TWICE 🤦🏾♀️
It’s extremely likely that your issue is lint buildup in the fan housing or In the exhaust hose.
I have a video that will walk you step-by-step through how to fix it.
th-cam.com/video/mDS5MCb7m_c/w-d-xo.html
I would not run the dryer until you get it fixed it’s very dangerous because lint buildup is the number one cause of dryer fires. After you get the lint cleaned out it’s going to dry like it’s new again.
I had the same problem. Cleaning the lint out didn't help. Once I changed the thermostats in the back, it suddenly worked like new.
Hey Dryer Guy,
I love your advice!
I did what you said to clean my lent out of my ge dryer. Your sequence of screws was most helpful and accurate!
Now, I got everything clean and reattached. It quit running after about 3 minutes. There was a bit of a burning smell. What is going on!!???
If the dryer had lint buildup a lot of times it will have a stopped up vent pipe going out of the house. If you smells up and you may want to unplug it and take it back apart and doublecheck that everything is ok.
@@WasherDryerMoney Hi sir, My Kenmore dryer suddenly stopped working it overheated bad enough that when you touch the machine it's burning and the clothes had fumes coming out of them. So after that if i pressed start nothing would happen so i changed the thermal fuse and it started working again but in the 2nd drying cycle it overheated again and shutoff. So now i know ill need to replace the thermal fuse but that theres another problem for sure. The Cycling thermostat button is acting weird as the button ends up in other positions then it should. My machine is only around 3 years old so i think it probably worth repairing it but now i wonder which parts i need to buy. I already have a new Thermal Cutoff Kit 279973 at home that i might try but since the Thermostat button is weird now im even more confused what to buy and not just end up buyign piece that i blow up everytime i start the machine lol
The old coil was burned in two.
What would you do for a dryer that gets too hot to the touch while the door is open? It is a kenmore 600 series dryer. The lint trap and exhaust vent have been cleaned out as well
If the dryer is getting hot while is the door is open this usually means The heating element wire is touching the wall of the dryer. You can look up videos on dryer heating element Grounded, you will see example videos and that’s what I’m talking about.
If this is your problem be sure to fix it this is a very dangerous problem.
Rich my timer cuts off at 40 min
Found many junk dryers that only needed thermo fuse. Lint clog was also a top fail issue. Fun hobby with $10k net. Best way to clear lint loaded dryer: pull apart outside, cover electrical and blast with water, air hose dry on warm day.
Yeah I usually just use my air compressor outside. Clogged up dryers are a good source of profit.
@@WasherDryerMoney Warm Dry CA weather make water flush better with no nasty dust to deal with. Full dry within 1 hr. All good, they sell fast, easy pocket change fun hobby.
My whirlpool dryer shuts off after 10 or 20 minutes.
Sounds like the motor is going bad. Could be something else but usually when I drive overheats it either won’t run at all or the fuse to the heating element will blow and it will not heat. When it is running for a while and then turns off that’s usually a sign of a motor going bad.
You had hotdogs that day didnt ya?
if how to ,you tube video starts with ,whats up guys . it going to be useless .