Another quick pre-ride check, as you approach your bike, look at the ground under the engine and see if you spot any fluid leaks. Also look at the forks/shock for leaks. It's only visual, takes a split second.
Good idea, more vids about things to consider after you already purchased a bike. All the vids are for people who are thinking of maybe getting a bike one day
Great video. Thank you. I always find it interesting that when we drive a car we all adjust seat position, mirrors, steering wheel for height and reach, yet a lot of riders simply just ride them straight out of the box and don’t adjust all of these fundamentals. Plus the suspension (depending on level of adjustability), and tyre pressures and wear.
Cage ergos are designed to be adjusted with nothing more than the average set of human digits/limbs. Motorcycle ergos tend to need tools...and, one imagines, tend to be viewed as dangerous if not "done right". Which is, frankly, true. If not every bike, it would be nice if there were a class/genre of bike that was designed for ergonomic adjustability. Unfortunately, I don't think the promise of the Versys S flexibility has made it beyond that model. Some of the electric bikes coming out seem to be including power adjustability (the Anthem Ryvid...another concept I forgot the name of), but it tend to take an expensive bike to get non-tool adjustment on ICE bikes..and that's just for height. I imagine it varies by region and culture, but a salesperson taking the time to fit a rider (meaning make ergo adjustments) and/or show a rider how to make adjustments is the barrier to more riders having more people on properly fit bikes (because riders often simply don't know they get to make changes). This is to say nothing of the number of riders who are starting off on borrowed or private purchase bikes who don't have someone practiced in the art of properly introducing a new rider to the art and science of motorcycling.
@@TheCdubbleyoo Agreed to a point. As with any new bike you only need to adjust the clutch and brake lever position once. Set and forget with minimal time and a basic tool. Suspension is a bit trickier especially if you’re new. However, the luxury that TH-cam provides will show you how to set it up to your weight and riding preference. Then you have tyres, which require certain pressures, just like cars do which still need to be checked and adjusted.
The boot change half way through the video confused me a bit. Shouldn't you have got her wearing the right kit before the pre ride check, if your going to adjust the foot levers based on movement?
You're right, if one is only going to be wearing one pair of footwear when riding, best to adjust to those. However, I think what you see in the vid is the result of someone not wanting to get chain smudge on the first pair of buck-colored moto-shoes. (in fact, I am suspicious that the black pair aren't moto-boots).
I don't think the chain lubing guide was one that ensures long life. I mean if you leave it wet with grease it will collect extra sand and grit, which will act as grinding agent. I think the recommended practice with the internally lubed chains is that you clean it, spray it (to get the old junk even more off + act as rust preventer) and clean it pretty much all off with like rag. My own procedure (I ride a lot on gravel roads and on wet stuff) is first wipe the chain with rag, then spray it with wd-40, wipe that off again, then this teflon grease, which i again wipe mostly off. These things have pretty much doubled the life of chain on my bike.
Even on a "sealed" chain, lubrication of the contact points between the chain and the sprockets is important to extend the life of those the components.
@@TheCdubbleyoo Not really. There should not be any movement in that part. And as long as you don't drive it in dusty or othervise gritty conditions it doesn't matter. As soon as you do, it's no longer lubricant, but grinding paste. So in general I would say my method saves the chain life no matter where you drive it. There's fe Revzilla shop manual thing about this.
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? [โกงไหมครับ ep.88 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the best vídeos ever.
Another quick pre-ride check, as you approach your bike, look at the ground under the engine and see if you spot any fluid leaks. Also look at the forks/shock for leaks. It's only visual, takes a split second.
Nice to see new blood in this motorcycle channel. Keep Rosslyn in the series if y’all can.
Who is she?? She's STUNNIG😍
Good idea, more vids about things to consider after you already purchased a bike.
All the vids are for people who are thinking of maybe getting a bike one day
she is gorgeous,
the bike is good looking too
Great video. Thank you. I always find it interesting that when we drive a car we all adjust seat position, mirrors, steering wheel for height and reach, yet a lot of riders simply just ride them straight out of the box and don’t adjust all of these fundamentals. Plus the suspension (depending on level of adjustability), and tyre pressures and wear.
Cage ergos are designed to be adjusted with nothing more than the average set of human digits/limbs. Motorcycle ergos tend to need tools...and, one imagines, tend to be viewed as dangerous if not "done right".
Which is, frankly, true.
If not every bike, it would be nice if there were a class/genre of bike that was designed for ergonomic adjustability. Unfortunately, I don't think the promise of the Versys S flexibility has made it beyond that model. Some of the electric bikes coming out seem to be including power adjustability (the Anthem Ryvid...another concept I forgot the name of), but it tend to take an expensive bike to get non-tool adjustment on ICE bikes..and that's just for height.
I imagine it varies by region and culture, but a salesperson taking the time to fit a rider (meaning make ergo adjustments) and/or show a rider how to make adjustments is the barrier to more riders having more people on properly fit bikes (because riders often simply don't know they get to make changes).
This is to say nothing of the number of riders who are starting off on borrowed or private purchase bikes who don't have someone practiced in the art of properly introducing a new rider to the art and science of motorcycling.
@@TheCdubbleyoo Agreed to a point. As with any new bike you only need to adjust the clutch and brake lever position once. Set and forget with minimal time and a basic tool. Suspension is a bit trickier especially if you’re new. However, the luxury that TH-cam provides will show you how to set it up to your weight and riding preference. Then you have tyres, which require certain pressures, just like cars do which still need to be checked and adjusted.
Troy is good
Hi 🤓
It might be easier for a new rider to make a small checklist of things to do and when to do them.
The boot change half way through the video confused me a bit. Shouldn't you have got her wearing the right kit before the pre ride check, if your going to adjust the foot levers based on movement?
You're right, if one is only going to be wearing one pair of footwear when riding, best to adjust to those. However, I think what you see in the vid is the result of someone not wanting to get chain smudge on the first pair of buck-colored moto-shoes.
(in fact, I am suspicious that the black pair aren't moto-boots).
More her please !
I don't think the chain lubing guide was one that ensures long life. I mean if you leave it wet with grease it will collect extra sand and grit, which will act as grinding agent. I think the recommended practice with the internally lubed chains is that you clean it, spray it (to get the old junk even more off + act as rust preventer) and clean it pretty much all off with like rag.
My own procedure (I ride a lot on gravel roads and on wet stuff) is first wipe the chain with rag, then spray it with wd-40, wipe that off again, then this teflon grease, which i again wipe mostly off. These things have pretty much doubled the life of chain on my bike.
Even on a "sealed" chain, lubrication of the contact points between the chain and the sprockets is important to extend the life of those the components.
@@TheCdubbleyoo Not really. There should not be any movement in that part. And as long as you don't drive it in dusty or othervise gritty conditions it doesn't matter. As soon as you do, it's no longer lubricant, but grinding paste. So in general I would say my method saves the chain life no matter where you drive it. There's fe Revzilla shop manual thing about this.