Yes I agree one of the drawbacks with BHJ is they are very vague with their set up instructions when I made this video I kind of knew this but I had just purchased the fixture and I still couldn't bring myself to trust it (old habits die hard) however I have been doing it just as you describe for quite a while now and it does a great job. most of the older blocks are out quite a bit the factory did not care. I have noticed that many of the newer blocks are pretty true Thanks for the input.
Just one more note I discovered what you are saying is tru (no pun intended) when I checked the deck heights they were all over the place when you mill based on the fixture the deck clearance is the same in every cylinder that's all it took to convince me Regards
One more thing, you do the mains 1st, line hone 1st. Then, set your decks, with the fixture, and, you also use the bhj plate to set your deck height. 7.5 inches from the crank centerline, to the top of the plate. Then, use your rod length, compression height, and stroke to figure out how much to cut off the decks, to 0 deck, or leave the piston .005 in the hole etc. Then, assuming yout using a block mounted boring bar, do the cylinders last, that way, you re-bore the holes so the are perfectly 90 degrees to the crank centerline. That way, you truly "blue print" machines your block. You can take it one step further and use a bhj bore tru fixture, to put the bores in the exact blueprint location. When you do the bores 1st, they will never be in the right position in relation to the crank centerline
Just curious did you level your blockmaster or did a machine company do it ? If you did what's the trick I've got two of them been chasing my tail trying to level them I get the table right then the cutter is off and the original manual is pretty vague any help would be appreciated
I made a previous comment about using the BHJ fixture for side to side. Since then I have changed positions about this. One reason is the tapered cone doesn't always give true reference of the cam bore. I actually turned a puck kind of like a SBC cam bearing installation tool, only it is turned to fit snug in the cam bearing bore. It takes a different one for each application. Now the funny part of the whole process. Even tho I now have perfect cam bore alignment, did you realize that the cam bearing bore might not be actually centered from the factory? Or the piston bores could be off in any number of ways. Mind numbing? Actually I haven't used the BHJ fixture for some time on HP builds. I go off existing deck (find the middle of the road on side to side) take a cut just enough to touch whole surface. Provided it doesn't appear to have been decked before. Measure distance to bar and final mill. This will get one close. If a block has been decked or bored by some poor machine shop, which I'm amazed at the crap work done, your going to have to take a butt load of time to get it right. Number one thing is to check and recheck that Storm Vulcan mill for level very often. They are a pain if you're looking for perfection!!! Most people don't have a clue how much work it is to do this kind of work right. I should be charging double!!!!!!!
Hi man love your videos !!! im building a 383 stroker and I got my block back from machine shop and it looks real good but they didnt mill the block !! do u think it will be ok or is this necessary !! thanks
I dont know much about machining engine blocks but do know a few things about machining in general. That said, first thing that stood out in my head was that isnt it not the best idea to use the deck to indicate this in to square it. I mean, you are relying on whom ever did this before you to have done a perfect job whether at the factory or other machine shop. Is there some sort of tooling available that allows you to use the cylinder bores and crank shaft journals to do this?
Yes! you are correct we use the fixture for this based on the crankshaft center-line I just didn't get into that it's a little to involved and doesen't keep the attention of most God eye
So how are you leveling now from side to side? Are you leveling off your BHJ fixture plate? Not much width for a level. Also all is in vain if machine isn't set perfect. Takes all the kings horses and men to level this machine to cut perfect. Have you thought about another updated video since? By the way this still is an interesting video!
Any reason for milling it DRY? I worked in a high performance 2 stroke machine shop many years ago as in yes 35 and I ran an engine lathe but the guy who milled use the 'milk' as I did on the lathe-
hello how are you very good friend videos, I want to ask you a question on that. place purchases what parts for that machine, I have one and it has been damaged or I look for part but I can not find it I would appreciate you to help me with the information, have a good day
Great video.....working on my favorite big block for towing.
to get the perfect 90 deg u don't level the block u dial indicate off the BHJ fixture then dial indicate front to back according to BHJ
Correct because the BHJ fixture is supposed to be dead nuts to where the block should be that’s the whole purpose of using one
Beautiful. I have the same machine. Storm Vulcan. Mabe in good ole Texas.Dont forget to lock cutter.keep up good work.
Why are you running this machine without locking the spindle.
Yes I agree one of the drawbacks with BHJ is they are very vague with their set up instructions when I made this video I kind of knew this but I had just purchased the fixture and I still couldn't bring myself to trust it (old habits die hard) however I have been doing it just as you describe for quite a while now and it does a great job. most of the older blocks are out quite a bit the factory did not care. I have noticed that many of the newer blocks are pretty true Thanks for the input.
Just one more note I discovered what you are saying is tru (no pun intended) when I checked the deck heights they were all over the place when you mill based on the fixture the deck clearance is the same in every cylinder that's all it took to convince me
Regards
One more thing, you do the mains 1st, line hone 1st. Then, set your decks, with the fixture, and, you also use the bhj plate to set your deck height. 7.5 inches from the crank centerline, to the top of the plate. Then, use your rod length, compression height, and stroke to figure out how much to cut off the decks, to 0 deck, or leave the piston .005 in the hole etc. Then, assuming yout using a block mounted boring bar, do the cylinders last, that way, you re-bore the holes so the are perfectly 90 degrees to the crank centerline. That way, you truly "blue print" machines your block. You can take it one step further and use a bhj bore tru fixture, to put the bores in the exact blueprint location. When you do the bores 1st, they will never be in the right position in relation to the crank centerline
Just curious did you level your blockmaster or did a machine company do it ? If you did what's the trick I've got two of them been chasing my tail trying to level them I get the table right then the cutter is off and the original manual is pretty vague any help would be appreciated
Who do you recommend to send my engine block and cylinder head to to get acid cleaned?
I suppose you want to take the same amount off on both decks. How is this done?
I made a previous comment about using the BHJ fixture for side to side. Since then I have changed positions about this. One reason is the tapered cone doesn't always give true reference of the cam bore. I actually turned a puck kind of like a SBC cam bearing installation tool, only it is turned to fit snug in the cam bearing bore. It takes a different one for each application. Now the funny part of the whole process. Even tho I now have perfect cam bore alignment, did you realize that the cam bearing bore might not be actually centered from the factory? Or the piston bores could be off in any number of ways. Mind numbing? Actually I haven't used the BHJ fixture for some time on HP builds. I go off existing deck (find the middle of the road on side to side) take a cut just enough to touch whole surface. Provided it doesn't appear to have been decked before. Measure distance to bar and final mill. This will get one close. If a block has been decked or bored by some poor machine shop, which I'm amazed at the crap work done, your going to have to take a butt load of time to get it right. Number one thing is to check and recheck that Storm Vulcan mill for level very often. They are a pain if you're looking for perfection!!! Most people don't have a clue how much work it is to do this kind of work right. I should be charging double!!!!!!!
Hi man love your videos !!! im building a 383 stroker and I got my block back from machine shop and it looks real good but they didnt mill the block !! do u think it will be ok or is this necessary !! thanks
I dont know much about machining engine blocks but do know a few things about machining in general. That said, first thing that stood out in my head was that isnt it not the best idea to use the deck to indicate this in to square it. I mean, you are relying on whom ever did this before you to have done a perfect job whether at the factory or other machine shop.
Is there some sort of tooling available that allows you to use the cylinder bores and crank shaft journals to do this?
Yes! you are correct we use the fixture for this based on the crankshaft center-line I just didn't get into that it's a little to involved and doesen't keep the attention of most
God eye
machine shop is the go ))
So how are you leveling now from side to side? Are you leveling off your BHJ fixture plate? Not much width for a level. Also all is in vain if machine isn't set perfect. Takes all the kings horses and men to level this machine to cut perfect. Have you thought about another updated video since? By the way this still is an interesting video!
Any reason for milling it DRY? I worked in a high performance 2 stroke machine shop many years ago as in yes 35 and I ran an engine lathe but the guy who milled use the 'milk' as I did on the lathe-
Multiple carbide tipped cutters slow feed slow rotation and cast iron material which actually doesn't really need lubricant at that speed.
Where can I find this machine?
hello how are you very good friend videos, I want to ask you a question on that. place purchases what parts for that machine, I have one and it has been damaged or I look for part but I can not find it I would appreciate you to help me with the information, have a good day
What part do you need