How To Install the E3D Revo Micro on the Ender-3 V2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we're going to see what's involved in getting E3D's new REVO Micro hot end installed on an Ender-3 V2! This is definitely a DIY project!
HUGE THANKS to E3D for sending this over to me!
E3D's installation guide PDF (includes a link to their printable files)
• e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-...
E3D's printable files on PrusaPrinters:
• www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
BV3D's fan duct remix on PrusaPrinters:
• www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
BV3D's Edit & Compile JyersUI Firmware video:
• • EASY! Edit & Compile J...
And of course check out the Revo Micro at E3D:
• e3d-online.com/products/revo-...
Did this video help you out, save you a bunch of time, or help you learn something new?
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#E3D
#RevoMicro
#3DPrinting
CHAPTERS
00:00 Opening
01:36 A little bit about the E3D Revo Micro
04:16 Print the Mounting Bracket
06:13 Firmware Tasks
10:36 Installing the Printed Parts
13:13 Mounting the Revo Micro
14:49 Wiring the Revo Micro
22:20 Post-Installation
23:28 Post-Upgrade Thoughts
25:26 Closing - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Came for the awesome 3D printing info, stayed for the t-shirts!
You cover everything you'd ever want to look at in upgrading your printer. Love all your videos.
Hi Bryan, I´ve installed an Revo Micro on my Ender 3 Max V2 Pro. And I reused all the fans with some modifikation of the fitting to the the x carriage. It works excellent. BTW E3D releases an Revo CR that will be easy to upgrade an Ender 3 with. Keep up the good work.
Nice video. Very helpful guide. Thanks for making this Bryan.
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it!
Well done, very thorough and informative.
Thank you Brian great job as always!
Thank you so much, I will be using this guide in the coming days to upgrade my ender 5 Pro!
Thanks for this video Bryan... another project for me to do on my E3V2! Maybe this weekend!!! Need to put my Revo to some good use LOL
Great video showing this off revolutionary design can’t wait to get a couple. RIP Sanjay may e3d never stop being better.
I just soldered them but I use a AT&T twist on the wires and solder them at 575 degrees with double heat shrink...
Thank You, Thank You! The wires on my REVO SIX I had hooked up backwards. I just assumed the wires that said ..104-NT.. was the thermistor wires. One would think so. But not so. Once I reconnected the wires the hotend at least Heats up. Now to see if my stock Ender 3 Max bed will heat up. I have yet to get my BTT TFT35 E3 display to work correctly so I just have my Stock Ender 3 Max display hooked up. Seems to work just fine. I am running the Octopus Pro 429 version.
Awesome video , these diy projects are pretty cool 😎 i always watch to the end and I gotta ask what conditioner are you using? Lol
Haha! Thanks, and it's just plain old Head & Shoulders. (shrug) 😊
All that cable sleeve will bunch up & widen if you push the ends together, then put the wires through a short wide sleeve rather than a long thin one. Just saying & the mane’s looking awesome fella.
you could design a casing/shroud like what's on the stock and have it hold or hide the connectors. I think it would be cool to have it look professional: it's why I love the look of the ender 3 v2. The hotend is all hidden behind a shroud.
Very nice video once again Bryan! Can’t wait to mount a Revo to the MUTANT! How did it print?
Great vid once more I am so wanting to upgrade to JyersUI Firmware but cannot get the courage to do it yet.
Bryan, great information as usual. One question, is there a mount and fan duct for an Ender3V2 using the BL Touch?
Wire sleave easy mode. Push both ends of only the sleave toward each other along the length of the eclosed wire. The sleave will grow in size (rather large actually) remove/insert new wires with excess length on hot end side then pull the sleave ends apart. Easy!
And thanks helps a bunch
It would be great if the kit would be a remove and replace only on the Ender 3v2. I would love to try this but I am not ready for such an elaborate process.
Maybe a future version of the Ender includes this new hot end already installed.
I am considering buying as my second printer the new Ender 3 V 1 S pro that is scheduled to start shipping in mid May for about $500.
I currently have a Ender 3v2 with the upgraded Micro Swiss all metal hot end. I followed your instructions to installing it and it was great!
I find all your videos extremely informative. Unfortunately this one is too involved for me at this time!
Awesome video! Very informative. I'm just curious about that tiny little fan the Micro has. I'd assume it's whiny, is that the case? How loud it is?
You can also 'bunch up' the wire sleeve to make it a bit fatter and then push the wires through a few inches at a time. BTW what do you do if you have a CR touch (or BL touch) probe on the printer? The new cooling fan location is in the way!
It's a very good video. It's the same on the ender 5 pro and 3 and 5 plus and cr10. The old school ender 5?
Your Tshirts are the best!
Haha! Thanks! 😀
cable sleeves are like that finger trap you put on the finger in it and start pulling you will have a bad time. if you need to get a now cable through a cable sleeve. push the end towards the area you want another cable through. like magic the sleeve will swallow that bad boy up and then just let the cable sleeve go back to its normal position while you keep few fingers on the new cable going through and just repeat until the new cable is through. if you try to push it trough you will have a bad time unless its the first set of cables.
Makes sense! Thanks for the tip! 👍
Hmmm, your tee shirt makes me think twice about trying this at home.... LOL
Love that T-shirt lol
what is the best cura settings for PLA plus
can you install and use the E3D Revo Micro while also using a CR/ BL Touch?
Have you actually ran the new hotend yet? Very curious how it handles normal to high work flow needs as my printers never get a break. I like the minimal footprint it has. Currently on my 4 e3pro printers I use MicroSwiss dd/metal hotend with hero me cooling, it's just massive and would like to make it more astetically pleasing to my eyes lol
I tried the same setup and hated how large the hero me cooling system was. I ended up switching to the Stealthy Swiss mod by Roma Aquatics. I tend to print more PETG so dropping to one 5015 fan vs 2 hasn't been an issue at all for me. and looks much more pleasing imo.
Great video as always I’m sure anyone will be able to take something away from it.
Installed my H2 V2S Revo and having a issue with Klipper "MCU 'mcu' shutdown: ADC out or range error. I assume I need to change this in my printer config? Any ideas where?
Does this work for the anycubic Kobra neo
Im glad to see that you installed the Revo and not the Creality Spider as despite Creality's claims that it is compatible with the Ender 3 V2 it melts the fan shroud, I know two printing buddies that have installed this to the V2 and both ended up with melted fan shrouds.
The Revo looks good and for people who hate having to dissasemble the fan shroud and ABL mount when changing nozzles its a worthy part, I changed my nozzles to hardened steel ones about two two years ago and have not had to change them since, and when I take out the filament to store it I run some nozzle cleaning filament through it and I havent had a clog since, I didnt get around to changing to a hardened steel nozzle on my latest purchased printer and I wanted to use up my stock of brass nozzles, i was having some major problems printing with this machine and eventualy found out the 0.4mm brass nozzles I had were marked 0.4 but were in fact 0.2, I threw a 0.4 hardened steel one in there and problem solved
Is any XY offset required after this upgrade?
I thought temps above 260 were problematic with bowden tube setups because of the PTFE of the tube itself. I believe the stock hotend is actually rated for higher temperatures, but the firmware regulates it down because of the bowden tube issues.
That's the nice thing about the Revo. It's an all-metal hot end, so the PTFE tube never gets down into the hot zone. It just barely goes into the top of the heat sink. (Personally I almost never run a PTFE-lined hot end above 235˚C.)
@@BV3D Got it! Thank you for the clarification here! Still very new to all of this, with my printers as presents from this past Christmas. :D Your videos have been invaluable getting me through some of the initial headaches, that's for sure!
you are supposed to fiddle and jerk the sleeve and cables like you did at one point. I wish revo cooled down as fast as it heats up then it be perfect and also if it did 50mm3 flow
How do you like the print quality?
I also wonder how to install it on ender 3 or 5?
Ok I followed this firmware part and when I click the check make it says failed.
#error ''FAN_SOFT_PWM is required for your board. Enable it to continue
Would that be a good upgrade on ender 3 max v2 pro
You did a couple videos on that and have tried them even change ou the 4.2 mother board to 4.7
Just wondering
The hole pattern on the Max's X carriage may be different compared to the V2 and the other Ender series as well, because its fan shroud is shaped differently and has two parts cooling fans on board. It'd still be interesting to get the Revo mounted on it though.
Got the revo six anyone know if it could work with ender 3 v2?
I have an ender 3 max. Will I be able to install this hot end into addition to my bl touch?
Hi! Check out the E3D Revo CR instead. ( e3d-online.com/products/revo-creality?aff=19 ) It was released a couple of months after this video, and it uses Creality's hole spacing on the heat sink, instead of the Micro's way of screwing into a mount. It also uses the same kind of thermistor that Creality's firmware is already programmed to use, so unless you want to go beyond 260˚C, you won't even need to compile a new version of Marlin.
So if you already have your printer set up with a BL Touch and it's using a stock Creality hot end, the Revo CR should be a bolt-in replacement. Remove the fan shroud, remove the two screws on the Creality heat sink, use those screws to attach the Revo CR heat sink, and put the fan shroud back on. I don't know the length of the wires included in the kit, so you may have to make some splices if they're too short.
Good video, but why go through this DIY project if e3d already announced a creality specific revo that mounts to the standard mount?
Sure, good on you to show how to work with a base revo micro, I just don't really see too much of a point with it in this scenario
Hi, the only difference on theCreality-specific product appears to be that the heat sink mounts directly to the existing standoffs on the X carriage. So the only thing in this video you *_wouldn't_* need to do is spend a few hours printing a mount and harvesting a couple of screws. You'll still need to rewire and re-firmware, because the Revo HeaterCore and thermistor still require it. All else would apply in an Ender-3 V2 installation. 👍
never use solder on thermistor wires, tin increases the wires resistance and makes the temperature reading higher than the actual temperature. The best option is to use a crimp terminal that places the wires side by side. Ferrules without insulation is the best option, and then cover with heat shrink tubing. the same option also applies to the heating cartridge wires.
I’ve soldered slice engineering 50w heaters and 450c thermistors half a dozen times printing at 340c without issue on 6 printers. I reached out to slice engineering beforehand and received approval that it would be fine.
@@rickc7151 i never said it was wrong, it might be a valid solution but you have a temperature reading error. it could be 1C or 2C, but it's there. and it may not even bother
@@pauloturij ok do me a favor and take a volt meter and check the resistance on either end of the heater or thermistor when using the connector supplied in most kits. You will find the resistance to be higher vs a straight connection using soldered connections. The guys at SE have stated they do the vary same thing just to avoid connectors.
@@rickc7151 Depends on the type of connector we are talking about. It can actually be a lot worse, just add a new metal to the current flow and you get a different reading.
@@pauloturij I think we can both agree that connectors found in 3d printing aren't high performing connections - usually just cheapo stuff from China. Anyway I don't claim one to be better than the other but I don't like the bulkiness of the connectors myself so I just solder them. And honestly if the thermistors were so susceptible to error from a simple soldered joint I'd have to imagine we would be seeing a lot of drama on FB groups)
Aw man, my nozzle broke and its stuck in the re. I have to buy a new extruder head and i was thinking of this. Great vid though but now my e3v2 is stuck i cant print the parts now. Any recomidations what i should buy else?
Sorry to hear that! Since I don't know specifically what part of the hot end is broken, the best I could recommend is either having someone nearby print the Revo mount and fan duct for you, or spending about $15 on a replacement Creality hot end. ( amzn.to/36kMHWW ) The replacement hot end would at least get you going while you're waiting for a Revo to arrive.
@@BV3D Thanks alot! I was searching for that! Could you do a tutorial for me how to place that?
/remove
@@BV3D ?
PLEASE HELP! For some reason I can't compile firmware because of an error in the terminal... Could you please make me a ender 3 Max firmware with the creality touch sensor and the settings for the E3D revo micro? I'm willing to pay a small fee for your help 😖
So, at least you have to pay 69,90 Pounds for the kit, and then you have to find yourself an extra 3mm x 6 screw, because this is not included?
I think this is a great hot-end, and you made a great video... But this is so typically E3D. I have one question for them: WHY?
I would have preferred longer cables and a minimal set of screws, but if this were being installed on an Ender-3 or Ender-3 Pro, there would've been enough of the right kind of screws available. The cube-style metal fan shrouds on those two printers use M3 screws to secure the hot end fan inside the shroud, but the V2 has a plastic shroud and uses coarse-threaded screws designed to bite into the shroud. Plus the wiring would've been about the right length.
I think if you were to do this with a bigger machine like a CR-10, you'd definitely be splicing wires to make it all work.
hi bryan, love you printing videos! New to 3d printing, but upgraded my heat break to a slice engineering CE heat break. I have the Ender 3 V2. I went through all the steps and changed my max temp value to 385 (heat break is rated for 400 C). Flashed the firmware onto the printer and my max temp value still only reaches 260. I also changed the name of my printer and that didn't show up either. What did change was that I went from a 5x5 CR touch mesh to a 3 x 3 mesh because of the limited choices in the source code E3V2 templates folder, and that did change. So just wonder why I still can't change my max temp value or why the printer name didn't change? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
The real Problem I see is, That the new Hot End Kit is very pricey for a hobby level person. Also their new way of changing the hot end it's self seems clever!
But means it be a special company only thing which means hard to get replacements since it is only that non-standard design and means it be very pricey and.
That be a huge problem for hobbyists. So more of a high end custom 3D printing semi-professional than a normal hobby level user system.
If a Hobby gets that expensive it will drive away possible users not bring new users in.
there is no room for the BlTOUCH
It’s a basic fan duct. It shouldn’t be too hard to add a BL Touch mount point to it. I bet one comes out in the next few weeks!
Let's seebone with the bltouch? I really want one. All my machine have bltouch. And stainless steal. But I hear that is in the works.:0)
No Leaks :)