BMW M240i B58 Spark Plug Change Tutorial (F Chassis 340i/440i)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- Replacing the NGK 94201 OEM spark plugs on my 2018 M240i. This will also apply to any F chassis BMW with the B58 (340i, 440i).
Stuff I use and like:
--Tuning and Coding--
OBD2 Adapter for tuning and coding:
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Wi-Fi Antenna for CarPlay Retrofit:
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--Appearance Mods--
Carbon Fiber Spoiler
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Black M-Style Grill
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Aluminum Paddle Shifters
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3mm Spacers
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Extended Lug Bolts
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--Tools--
Dewalt Tool Kit
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Ratchet Extensions
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Wheel Hanger Stud
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Torque wrench
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BMW Jack Point Pads
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Portable Tire Inflator
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--Detailing--
Foam cannon and nozzles
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Adam’s Mega Foam Soap
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Griot’s Speed Shine
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P&S Brake Buster
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Turtle Wax Wheel Cleaner + Tire Prep
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Meguiar’s Endurance Tire Gel
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iK Foam Sprayer
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I appreciate you doing this as a real-time recording with your mistakes and hesitations. Makes the video more informative and encouraging.
Glad it was helpful!
One of the best diy videos that I have seen for any car project. Clear step by step directions with good video. Big thank you.
Thank you! Glad I could help 🙏
Fantastic, clear video. Made the job a lot quicker than it would’ve been otherwise. Thank you.
Spark plug #6 represents 90% of the work 😂
Yup, that’s German engineering for ya
Not on a G30 tho 😀
Nice work! That spark plug socket is key, I just bought the exact same one from Amazon.
I found this a really easy job.I started at the front and found that by the time I got to cylinder 6 my back was aching due to leaning over the car. I would start at the back next time and do the easier plugs after.
I might have to keep that in mind next time. 😅
thank you this video was very insightful!
Any time SDP, you’ve got some solid videos too, my guy
Not mentioned in the video but when you break the plug free take off the tool and untighten by hand after it's been broke free, also when you're putting the new ones in make sure you don't use tools and do it by hand and if you feel resistance back off and go back a little. You should not force the plug past any resistance or you can strip the block. Get it to hand tight and then use the torque.
Yep, this applies to most screws and bolts 👍
greatly appreciated the little tiny details always help in anticipating what you are going to find under the hood, running any tunes on this platform?
Currently MHD stage 2 for the last ~2 years
a good informative video but one question . . . . where did you get the torque setting for strut brace at 30nm?? The reason I ask is because my BMW manual for my 2016 M140i says to renew the bolts and use a jointing torque of 56nm and then a further turn of 90 degrees. This sounds way too high to me and I can't understand why the bolts would be single use. Also, on the M140, the two central bolts are longer than the two which attach to the suspension turrets and have different part numbers. The end bolts are E20 and the central bolts are 16mm hex bolts which are 5mm longer. Interested to know where you read 30nm though as I suspect the manual I have is incorrect and shows a torque figure which is way too high
I asked around the internet, got a few varying answers. But 30NM seemed to be most common. I didn’t see anybody actually replace the bolts, even though you’re “supposed to”. Mine are still plenty tight and haven’t been an issue, and I’ve taken them on and off half a dozen times now. I believe the 56nm is on initial installation, they’re designed to deform a little bit initially. But you don’t want to do that again, it’ll break eventually. I’d stick with the 30NM, it’s never been a problem. And yes depending on the chassis, for whatever reason, the bolts are slightly different sizes.
@@mevans8646 thanks for that. . . Since asking, I've looked more closely at both my official BMW 140 manual and the one for the M135I and the strut brace would definitely appear to be 56nm Jointing torque plus a further torque angle of 90 degrees - Same spec in both manuals. The manual does specify new bolts each time because the torque spec is "torque to yield". It does seem a very high torque but would appear correct as I had a major sift through the manual to compare torque settings for similar M10 bolts on the brakes and suspension. When I removed mine, I marked them with a pen against the bodywork so that I could return them to exactly where they were (I didn't have a new set available) and they required 75nm to do so but I felt very nervous about applying that amount of torque but that is how much was required to reinstall as per factory. To further confuse and muddy the waters, when I rang my dealer and ordered new bolts, they didn't have them in stock!!!!! They will be changing spark plugs all day long and so are clearly reusing the old bolts but gawd knows what torque they're using - when I asked, I was met by a barrage of raspberry blowing!! I believe it is an important one to get right because the official BMW Service manual specifically warns against driving the car without the brace fitted as it can cause damage to the body shell and if the strut is that important, I think it's a fair assumption that it also needs to be installed tight enough. When I replace my spark plugs again, I plan to use new bolts and will torque to 56nm jointing torque and then start to apply the 90 degree turn and see at what point in the turn I reach the 75nm that my "stretched" bolts were installed at . . . . it would be nice if this happened at 90 degrees but I suspect will occur much sooner. I don't want to risk stripping anything but likewise, I want to ensure the brace is correctly installed. You've had no issues but I suspect 30nm is well under spec. Hey ho!! . . thanks for your reply and again, a well structured, clear and informative video.
By the way . . . if your car had its first plug change with the dealer, it appears they changed the bolts because the central pair are torx but they should be hex bolts. It would appear that "someone" has changed the bolts but not realised that two different types are used - hex in the centre and torx on either end, plus the central bolts are slightly longer. If you want to know, then don't take my word for it because this will vary from chassis to chassis and year to year but if you give your VIN number to your dealer and ask for the two part numbers and then google them, you will see if your car should have different bolts in these two locations or not . . .just an idea
@@ybliga at the end of the day it is probably better to just do new bolts, so I can’t blame you there. Good luck 👍
Thank you for the tutorial !!
You don’t need to disconnect the battery when doing plugs.
I know it’s not totally necessary but it’s good practice to disconnect the battery when messing with any of electrical stuff.
Hey I have the same car as you but I have dumb question lol how do you know that the spark plugs are due to be changed ? Do you have a check engine light or some symptoms tells you that they’re due ? Thanks for the video by the way very helpful !
My car started driving very rough. Any time I’d touch the gas my car would buck and shake. It was very obvious
You will get a misfire
Thank you for your video, do you have to say at the end in the software that the spark plugs have been replaced ?
No need to reprogram anything, just replace them and drive.
If you change spark plugs brand, you always need to reset the Ecu.
Well these were the same ones that it came with from factory so I’m good 🤷♂️
no it wasnt the same, the spark plugs you took out were from the Brand Champion. and champion spark plugs are usually a step colder spark plugs.the NGK's are also oem but do have different spec.
@@scottykilmer3920 I still have the old plugs in my garage and you are correct, they were Champions. Though I’ve never heard anyone mention anything about resetting the ECU. Every source I’ve seen says they’re interchangeable, do you mind sharing where you’ve seen that?
Trust me you do want to reset the Ecu after changing a sensors or a spark plug. If you dont care about performance then leave it as it is now ;)
@@scottykilmer3920 well what exactly do you mean by reset the ECU? How would I go about doing that
Don’t have a 340/440 but just watching haha
Bmw says compressed air must used before taking out the plugs..
Yes, that would be necessary if there’s any dust or dirt in there. Mine were clean though, so I wasn’t worried about it. I did check!
Another good one Mevins! I did mine awhile ago and also had champions from factory. I feel like ever since I installed the NGK’s it’s not as smooth but could just be placebo. What did you toque the coil packs to? I don’t remember the amount but I felt like they were going to snap/ strip so I didn’t toque to spec. It’s been roughly 10k miles and I’m considering replacing with new original champions to compare.
I don’t think I torqued those to any spec, I just did “tight enough” 🤷♂️ my plugs felt better then before though so not sure what’s up with yours
Ty for this video!
Hey man I’m looking to do my first spark plug change with my m240i. Should I replace the plugs with the exact same ones/ brand as what came with the car or do I change to ngk
NGK and Champion plugs were both used as OEM, and they’re interchangeable. I don’t know the equivalent Champion part number but I use NGK 94201. You can use either one.
I know it’s been a long time, but can you tell me the detail on the tools I need Thank you appreciate it.
I should say in the video as I use them. Off the top of my head, 10mm socket for most of the bolts holding all the trim pieces in, E6 external TORX socket for the ignition coils, I think an E10 or E12 socket for the strut brace depending on your car, and a 14mm thin walled (thin walled is important) magnetic spark plug socket. I used a torque wrench as well to make sure everything is tightened to spec.
that 6 cylinder plug is really annoying to take apart half the car for
when the car shows the sports display the hp stops and 240 hp getting bad mpg could this be a sign of bad spark plugs
Bad plugs could definitely give you poor MPGs. If you’re on 40-50k miles with that set I’d swap them. If you’re tuned they typically need replacing every 15-20k
If your on E should you gap your plugs
I’m on 93, no E close enough for it to be convenient so I don’t bother.
How many miles were on those plugs?
About 34k. I replaced them thinking they were the reason my engine was running a bit rough but I only *just* solved that issue in one of my recent videos on VANOS issues.
Yeah nope…. I’m done fighting engine bays. 16 plugs on my hemi. Time to time travel and find me a big block under a 72 Monte Carlo
Did it fix the problem you were having.
No, that ended up being my VANOS actuator. I have another video on my channel fixing that.
How many miles was your car at when you did the spark plugs?
35k, a bit early but I planned on tuning it soon and I was narrowing down the weird jerkiness I was having, which ended up being my VANOS actuators.
@@mevans8646 would the jerkiness happen during shifts? I’m trying to diagnose my M240 right now. I already did a transmission oil change and the jerkiness is still there. Spark plugs next
The M-lites were programmed to have more aggressive shifts. Could just be that.
@@mevans8646 that’s what I’m hoping haha
How many miles/km before you had to change?
I did mine at about 35k to try and fix what ended up being my VANOS actuators. The spark plugs were still good at the time.
How was the engine behaving prior to the spark plug change?
At low throttle and low RPMs, the engine was lurching a lot. Cruise control was unusable, it felt like someone just kept poking the throttle. Medium throttle was okay, full throttle felt a little rough as well. The issue was mostly just drivability at lower RPMs around town. Changing out the plugs smoothed it all out completely. I’m on stock tune.
@@mevans8646 that’s how I feel and I thought it was my flash tune. It smooths out for me if I drop in 1-2 gallons of E85 but I’m due for plugs anyway so I’ll be getting the tools from your links. Thanks for the video
@@PoorlyUtilized thanks for watching!
Which spark plugs did you used?
NGK 94201
What did you gap them to?
Stock gap, didn’t touch them. I just replaced these again this weekend after putting 15k miles on them. They were perfectly fine that whole time. I just replace them more frequently since I’m tuned.
Aright cool, I’m about to do mine, and I’m just running a simple stage 1 93 tune, and was wondering if I’ll be fine with the stock gap
Stock gap seems to be fine for pretty much any OTS tune for these cars. Any of the .022” recommendations are carryovers from old engines and aren’t necessary on the B58.
Aright sounds good, thanks for the help
would you consider selling the car?
Just bought it 10 months ago, so probably not 😅
Driving one handed is a risk for you and OTHERS. Especially for driving like that in high speeds. Not cool 👎
This video guys is why you should never buy a BMW. Take it from someone who has owned a BMW X5 E70 N63. As you can see, he basically had to take the whole car apart to do what would have been a 5-min job on any Japanese car, minus the Supra because that one is essentially a BMW.
Now that I’ve done it once before,
I could do it pretty quickly next time. It’s annoying but definitely not a reason to not buy a car IMO. It’s still very doable with basic tools. I do see your point though 😂
So basically the only Japanese car worth owning was omitted from your list because it's basically a BMW? Great logic. The entire job should take 30-45 minutes which is pretty damn good for a small AWD 3.0 6 cylinder that makes 320hp stock.