Im a female, and this was great .. bought a 2015 rogue for my daughtr that did this, we sold it because she wanted a diff veh.. never tried to figure it out but this was it Im sure .. so easy fix and because of it we lost a ton of $$.. thx for showing !
Thank you! That’s really awesome you’re learning all of this, it will really pay off down the road. Hopefully if you ever do have that problem again you will be able to fix it and save some money haha. Thanks for watching!
Nice work man. No nonsense presentation easy to understand. Solid and rightious! In my exp limp mode is an absolute safety risk and put everyone inside the car at risk of whiplash. Because many times I have been in 5th or 6th gear on the freeway and it can literally rip you out of freeway speeds 65mph down into to 3rd gear violently. I have pulled to codes on my Mazda 6 P0766 and if forget the other atm. One has to do with the silonoid b and the other code has to do with possibly throwing the other code in relation. Apologies I am tired so I won't even begin to bore you with my 91 Miata odometer and left fast left turn blink loss of power related to try to make a left turn. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! That means a lot! But, I agree with you limp mode is a lot of the time unnecessary and like you said can be dangerous. I will say though that the idea is good in theory. to put a vehicle in a limp mode so they can’t destroy it. It would save a ton of cars. I’ve met so many people that will ignore huge signs to stop and then need major repairs. P0766 shift solenoid d isn’t working correctly. But, I got to say I love the Mazda 6 I’ve been trying to find one for a decent price. What year is yours? As for the 91 Miata a lot of people love that car. I’m sure there’s a Facebook group that know all about that specific car. But anyways have a good day!
Hello there! Mine one is Nissan X-trail NT-31 Model Year 2011. When I am started to drive the Traction Control light OFF sing appears spontaneously. Sometimes it is not seen in the dashboard. But all of a sudden it appears back again! Please advice for correction. Thank you in advance.
Quality video bro. My car hesitates and traction light with abs comes on. It then drives normally with a quite erratic rpm. Scanned and gave code c1105 for right rear sensor. Do u reckon that'll fix the issue? Its an altima 2013 3.5.
I have a 2015 Nissan Altima 2.5 S w/84,000 miles. It has gone into limp mode 3 times with the traction control and ABS codes appearing. I have been to 2 mechanics (one is on the fence btw the transmission and sensor / voltage issues and the other could not get the codes to come up) FYI- We replaced the battery. I have also gone to 2 different transmission shops ( one said I needed a complete rebuild for $5,400 and the other said it was not the transmission and got the same codes to come up when he heated it up) I am SO frustrated!!! Does this issue sound like what your video was about? Would like to hear your thoughts.
Sounds like a headache. First what are the exact codes the mechanic got? The transmission shop that said it needs to be overhauled go back and ask how they came to the conclusion as the other shop said that it wasn’t the issue. If they are a legit shop they will explain exactly how they came to that diagnosis. I defiantly need more info to come to any kind of conclusion. But I will be honest with you Nissan CVT transmissions are known for having issues and going bad with low mileages. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
A coupla times my Traction control lite came on and went into limp mode in the last year. Reading up on my Toyota Rav4 manual, it says unscrew/rescrew the gas cap. I did and the car returned to normal. I dont get why a slightly loose gas cap throws a car into limp mode.
What year is yours? But normally evap system shouldn’t be related to the abs and traction control part but limp mode can come if the designer feels there’s danger if the car keeps running so it puts it in limp mode. In your case the only thing that comes to mind is if the pressures in the gas tank were getting out of perimeters. But I’d have to look more into it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Hi so i have a nissan murano it was working find and well the battery went bad so i remplace it but once it the first time everything was good tye next day my murano lost power n would not go more then 40 mph n it takes 4 ever to get 2 40mph my question is you think its Limp mode ?
Do you get any abs lights or any lights at all? If there’s not lights I’m more inclined to think you may have a clogged catalytic converter. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Was driving in the thick snow last night and I hit a big snow patch and the traction control light came on. I started sliding everywhere and felt like no control over the car. It finally went off when i pulled in driveway. But i am concerned, just bought the car. Thoughts?
So a few things I’d ask is was there ice? How long was it on for? If you just experienced it the one time? But, if the conditions where really bad I wouldn’t worry about it. My car every time it rains and I skim a puddle it’ll kick on. It does that to let you know it’s lost control and to take it easy. Thanks for watching!
Will this reader work for the ABS system on a 2007 dodge charger? I got a 35$ reader off Amazon and wasn’t anything popped up about ABS. My traction light is on and ABS light sometimes comes on and when my brakes get hot it seems like my brake light comes on and it goes straight into limp mode. I have changed the brakes etc this is driving me insane 😢
Yes this Autel will read abs. Unfortunately, the cheaper ones can’t do much other than regular pcm codes. I know it can be frustrating but a good scan tool will help you a lot. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Hello bro i jave a 3.8 genesis coupe and last week abs and tc light came on , and i have been "detuned" because i have some engine code, but lately i have po123 , p0222 and p2105,p2106,p2110,p2159 , p0507...i cleaned the throttle body and sensor, the map sensor, the pedal accelerator...and when im driving i can have full power and 30sec the car is restricted to 5k rpm and is 30%less powerful minimum...i only have a little scantool but cant do abs. I had a tb controller, but i removed it thinking it could have been the cause
To me this is a issue more with the fuel injectors. potential pcm issues. Needs further diag for sure. For the abs and tc light you will have to get a little better scan tool or let a shop scan it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Would this cause the transmission to never actually shift out of first? I do have a slap shift gear box but the dash is not recognizing that, nor when I leave it in just drive the transmission will not shift out of first...
Yes this can make that happen. From what it sounds like it is your problem. If you have a scan tool to read abs you can verify. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkieI’m having the same problem. My ABS light is on as well as traction control light. I have scanned the codes and the only codes I have that are sensors are, 02, fuel level and oil pressure sensor. The other two codes I’m pulling are Lost connection to TCM and Internal Control Module. If I do what you did here would this fix the reason my 07’ charger r/t went into limp mode you think? I could shift out of first gear until I restarted my vehicle
I have a 2011 lancer and it drives fine,but sometimes the traction control light comes on and slows down my car and also does the same when I brake sometimes got 2 codes, steering angle sensor(C1219) and (C123B) system control too long. Does that have to do with the traction control light? What should I replace,thank you in advance.
Yes the steering angle sensor will in fact cause this to happen. Both codes listed can both directly be related to the sensor so it’s most likely the culprit. But if you have a good scan tool you can check the sensor to see if it’s working properly. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hey brotha I have a 2018 Nissan Altima and the brake switch was acting up so I bought a new one and it was working fine then the traction control light came on and the car started slowing down even though I was pushing on the accelerator
When pressing the accelerator did it act like it was driving to give it power but couldn’t or did it just have 0 power like in this video? If the traction control light came on somethings going on in the system. I would start by having it scanned and see what codes pull up.
Hey i have this problem in a 2011 nissan quest where i was parking and i was pressing on the accelerator and it wasnt accerlerating also in reverse it has the same problem and i turned it off and it didnt start back up and i used a jumper pack and it started but then the abs and stability control light came on and i also had no power steering. I turned it off, and now it doesn't start with the jumper pack. I was wondering if you know what the problem is
2018 hilux, into limp mode with an engine light and a traction control light...I was towing a small caravan and it was a hot day...waited 10 mins and away it went as if nothing had happened ...the lights stayed on for the rest of the journey..the garage couldn't find anything wrong...any help...thank you.
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you for your reply, I'm sorry as they were wiped at the garage but it was mentioned something about turbo boost and traction control...I have seen on utube that the same dash lights were a wheel sensor..??
If the garage did a diag on it and found nothing, then unfortunately you will have to have more diagnostics done. This doesn’t seem like it will be an easy solution especially over the internet. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Hello I have a 2011 Nissan Altima. My VDC or vehicle dynamic control light comes on when I start my car. I goes off and comes back on when in park. If I drive when it goes off it will not come back on unless I am in park. Do you think changing the ABS sensors will do the trick?
I wouldn’t change the sensors first. Start with checking your brake fluid level make sure it’s at the correct level. Let me know if it is. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie Thanks for the reply. Yes I it is and I noticed my coolant was low so I filled it to the Max line while engine was cold. I unhooked the negative terminal on my battery and took it for a spin. It did turn back on at one point. Now it seems to now come on at all. My check engine light is still on for MAF sensor. Due to a shorted ground says dealership. Been an issue for a year. Also two new codes this past evening. P0101 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction and C1130 Right Rear Height Sensor Circuit Out Of Range.
Hello. Your so good men, you answer all questions here. The video used Mazda as a model. What about Ford Focus 2012 year made, TDCI? Its same way to change the sensor cable at the wheel? I facing same problems, based on owners manual, they called it Electronic Stablity Control (ESP). It comes on when I driving. And my car become slow. But not everytimes, I facing this kind of of problems about 3 times already. When I shut down the engine and start restart, no more ESP symbols. But it not solve my problems, after this I believes it will comes again. Please advices. Thank you very much Junkyard Junkie.
Thank you! So yes this principal is used across the board. So this is most likely your problem as well. Is your abs light on as well? Is there any other lights or symptoms? Do you have a scan tool that you can read the wheel speed sensors? Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
ABS light not on. Only ESP light on, sometimes. I dont have scan tools. My idea for temporary, I want to turn off ESP function. There a button at steering, we can see it at screen when we select menu.. What do you think? Maybe you have an opinion.
Good video man and thanks for the tool tips. However - one piece of missing info; you didn't list the vehicle. I can tell that it's a Mazda CX-7, but that year?
@@JunkyardJunkie Because of this video I got in my car and went to my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts and bought an Innova 5410 CarScan tool for $179. Thanks for the push! I've owned a Bosch Mobile Scan for years but it's no longer supported on my Android phone and Apple is dropping support of the app as well soon. And that thing often gave me so much trouble getting and staying connected via Bluetooth. Really looking forward to playing with the OBDII/ABS/SRS tools on it. I'm here in the first place because my 2004 Mazda 6S V6 has that same crappy flashing lights and bouncing tach/speedo thing going on. It's definitely an ABS issue and now I have the right tool to (hopefully!) define the problem.
@@JunkyardJunkie Figured out my problem!! The pins in my OBD2 connector on my Mazda 6 were not making good contact with the scan tool connector! My previous Bosch Mobile Scan was something I'd often forget was connected and I did a lot of driving with it in place. Took me a while to realize it but keeping it connected while driving, coupled with the faulty pins, caused lots of drama on my gage lights as well as codes being thrown. A couple hours in awkward positions pulling out each pin one by one and using a small flat screw driver - watch repair sized - to add more spring pressure to each connector pin (about 10 of them) made all the difference in the world! And I was able to use my new Innova scan tool to sniff out the ABS and IC (Instrument Cluster) codes that were set and clear them. Yahoo!
Thank you! The process will usually be the same it’s still most likely going to be your wheel speed sensors. There is a chance it could be something else like bad programming or a steering problem. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Depends on the car. But for most part it usually won’t pop a engine light, instead it will pop a abs light. From there you can check abs codes. If it did pop a engine code I would think it was loss of communications to the abs module or if the vehicle has a speed sensor in the transmission that may also pop up as a code. But no matter what if it’s a regular check engine light you can go to auto parts store and use there scanner for free to get a reading of it. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
I'm having the same issue and the code reader is not reading correctly but I had the abs light on for 5 years and I gotten new tires now the car will limp I replaced the accelerator the car is in limp. So when I did my last inspection I turned the wheels and pumped the brakes then the check engine light came on but it's telling me throttle I got a new throttle then another mechanic did a diagnostic then all these different codes popped up some with C1131 C1132 but I can't get a clear answer
Is it a Nissan? If so those are codes you don’t really want to have as they will require further diag then I’ll be able to give over comments. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
ABS, Hand Brake, and Traction control lights on. I just remembered that a couple days ago, the Tire’s air pressure light was on and then off. I have a 2010 Mazda 3 hatchback. Hope this fixes it
This will usually be it. The computers get finicky over the abs sensors. But yours has a extra thing going on, your parking brake light is also on. It may be just a separate problem but something to consider. Good luck! Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
Do you know if a faulty ABS module would ever cause the ECM to go into security mode and not let the car start? My 2006 Dodge Durango is giving me code U1120 - Lost Wheel Distance Message. I've replaced the ECM twice, both times the car would be running just fine and then, out of the blue, it wouldn't start. I have full power to everything (except the radio won't turn on) and all my gauges work. I can hear the car click when I turn the key but nothing happens. Thanks for the informative video!
So, there’s not a security mode for that however it runs on the CAN bus and could cause the issue potentially. From the manual Set conditions for this code is The PCM doesn’t receive a wheel distance message from the antilock brake module or FCM(non abs) over the CAN C BUS. Possible causes - CAN C BUS open or shorted. - antilock brake module - or the PCM So I can’t do a whole lot with out being there but the first thing to look for is if there is other dtc with it specifically u0121 or p0141? Do you have a scan tool that is capable of checking for these? If so let me know what comes back and I’ll tell you what the manual says to look for next. Thanks for watching!
Thanks you for this video. Been dealing with this problem with my 2014 Chrysler 300(6 liter 3.6). TC light is on and ABS brake sensor is on the dash. It goes into limp mode as you said in the video, my car doesn’t let me go over 3kRPM and stays around 2.5k-2.7kRPMS; usually does it after I rev at highway speed and TC light starts blinking. I’ll be trying this out to see if this fixes my problem. Thank you
I have the abs light on and the slippery icon on at the same time but it keeps coming on and off trying to learn I'm a rookie mechanic trying to figure out if fine or get it checked.
@@JunkyardJunkie it wasn't even raining and I was like what the heck but it drives fine and all the breaks works and most of my coworkers told me not to worry about ABS light I have mine on and it drives just fine that's what they told me. It could be the sensors but I don't hear anything bad in the car
Ya you won’t hear anything wrong in the car and most likely a sensor is bad. They are correct that it will still work but they won’t be as effective in a emergency. Abs is anti-lock break system. This helps the car grab traction and slow down faster (older cars don’t have this so it’s not like you have to have it but I do recommend when you have some spare time and money to fix it.). Thanks for watching!
I have a 2011 jeep patriot with a abs traction light on. I replaced front left abs sensor and lights are still on. I have an autel im508 that i used to erase check engine codes for 02 sensor and evap leak,how can i turn off abs light on im508???
Hi! I have a 2007 Pontiac G6 Gt and back in July, I got new tires put onto my car. About a week goes by and I’m on the interstate and all of the sudden I feel a shift and my traction control light comes on and displays a ‘service traction control’ message on the screen. Since then, it comes on and off but recently, it’s been happening a lot more often. The main times that this happens is when I’m on either the highway or interstate going at least 65-70mph. I’ve done some research on it but it’s hard to figure out exactly what it is since everyone has different answers. I found one post online that said it could be the transmission fluid level but if it could be as simple as a wheel sensor, I’m all for it! I’m hoping it’s something like that rather than having to spend 100s of dollars. I’m going on a 10+hr trip in 2 weeks and want to make sure everything is fixed and ready to go by then! If you could give me any ideas as to what this could be, that would be much appreciated! Also, I forgot to mention, the reason I thought it could be the transmission fluid level is because when the light comes on for the traction control, it seems to shift harder than usual. For example, if I’m slowing down after the interstate and the light is still on, and I come to a complete stop, when I go to accelerate again, I can feel the transmission shift ‘hard’ when I’m going through the gears to get back up to speed. I’m not sure if that helps but more info is better than not enough! Thank you so much for this video, very helpful and gave me another option to what it could be. Hope to hear from you soon! Thanks!
Sorry to hear that’s happening. You’re right I’d rather have a bunch of useless information then not enough information. The more details the better chance I or others can help. With that being said do you get a ABS light when this happens? If so I would think maybe one of your speed sensors may be the problem. But if you don’t have the abs light come on then I would want to see the communications to the modules that control it. I’ve worked on a couple of these and they always seem riddled with issues from my experience. So with that said the best advice I can give you is to do one of two things. 1 buy a scan tool that can talk to other modules (highly recommend Autel). If you do this you’ll be able to see information that’s missing and watch live data and see if something is falling off or not communicating when the issue occurs. Or 2 take it to your local mechanic shop you trust and eat the diag fee to figure out the cause for sure. The hard shifting is never good for the transmission. I don’t think it’s coming from low fluid you would usually be experiencing more problems. I know this isn’t very helpful but unfortunately this is one of the cases that you will have to get more information to figure it out. Best of luck! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie The only other light that is on is the check engine light but in the past it has came on and it was the ‘catalyst efficiency low’ code and they said it’s still okay to drive since it’s the emissions that are being affected. So Im pretty sure that’s why that light is still on but the abs light hasn’t came on at all. I’ve had the codes read at orileys everytime the engine light has came on, do you think that is a good option to get the codes and everything? Since I don’t own a scan tool. Thank you again for your help! Definitely helps with the process of figuring out what’s wrong! Will be coming back to your page for any other vehicle issues!
So I wouldn’t worry about that check engine light. But yes orileys autozone and others are ok for regular trouble codes. But there scan tools can’t talk to the BCM, ABS, TCM and others. This is why it’s not a good option for your case now. The cheapest easiest way is to get a mechanic to check it out with the proper scan tool most shops will cost 100-200$ but it’s worth it to figure out the problem. Hope this helps. Good luck.
how can you disable the system if abs sabilatrak and abs traction control lights com on and your car go into limp mode. i was about 120 miles from home and my 2011 impala went into limp mode with the warning lights. my code reader was at home and i had to stop at a auto zone to find out the problem then drive home in limp mode to fix the problem. driving home in limp mode was a real pain in the a**.
Ya been there don’t that before haha. But really not much you can do, if certain parameters are not met then it’s going to stay in limp mode. Some cars have ways to bypass them sometimes but not usually.
I own a Mazda CX 7 2007.My speedometer works just fine, my Abs light doesn't come on but my traction control light wouldn't just go off. What could possibly be the cause of that? I'd appreciate any assistance. Thanks
Try this for me start car. turn steering wheel all the way to the right till it stops, then turn it all the way to the left till it stops and then rotate it back to the middle. turn off the car then start it back up. Do that and let me know if it works for you. Thanks for watching!
It’s possible but I don’t recommended just throwing parts at it. I would confirm with a scan tool just to be sure. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
My car did this but it wouldn't communicate with the garages scan tool. Im having to take it to a Mazda dealership now and im not expecting to be able to afford the repairs.
Hi mate I have an Audi A5 2009 when I turn on the car everything works fine but after some seconds when I’m start driving the speedo goes to zero abs epc esp lights came on and shows me also brake warning contact workshop. If I turn off the car everything goes to normal but after a while is doing the same thing. I was on audi yesterday. They did a Dignostic and they couldn’t find any faults because they told me that my ecu has been upgraded. and when they try to find the faults the computer is crushing and doesn’t show any fault. 1 another guy told that the gateway and the wiring has been changed. I have no idea what the problem is but I have saw many videos of you and u find solutions for everything
Thank you for the compliment I try haha. But first how long have you had the car? If they couldn’t read the codes because of a upgraded ecu (which I dont understand why they couldn’t gather data) then did they atleast not charge you? Did they give you any info on how the wiring had been changed? That’s a pretty big deal. Always gather as much data from this as possible. But speedo dropping makes me think abs or crank/cam sensors. But since when it happens all the stuff related to the abs comes on that’s where I would start. If you have a scan tool that can read live data from abs plug it in and have someone ride with you. Let them watch the data or just record the data (most scan tools on that level can record) then when it happens see if the wheel speed sensors drop off voltage wise and lose there speed. If they do then just follow that path to fix it. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thanks for the answer.I bought the car with this problem. They did no charge me but they told that odis is crushing and they can not see any faults in 2 different places they told me same thing.i don’t have any scan tool or staf like that. One of the mechanics he did live diagnostic when the car was driving once he told one from the wheels is running more that the others and after he told me no every wheel is running on the same time. So I’m confused I don’t know. At the begging he told me that my gateway has been change and the wiring. And that’s this is a problem. The car has a lot of items from Rs5 wheels brakes discs. They told me also if the change the abs unit they can’t do codding because Tommy gateway has been changed to an rs5 probably I have no idea.
@@JunkyardJunkie update It shows me on vagcom error code 00597 Any idea what’s going on? Also I forgot to say my tyres are 275/30/20 front and 285/30/20 rear
I have 2010 Lexus IS250. The Slippery Light and Check engine light came on at the same time when driving up the ramp to enter freeway. The trouble code is P0500 (speed sensor A).This happened about 1-2 miles after I cleared the code with scanner. After I clear the code but driving within city streets for 15 miles, the light did not come on. Any idea? Thanks.
Hey with these sensors when they fail they can partially fail where it only comes up sometimes until it fails completely. Since yours is a Lexus I looked up a few things on them it could be the sensor the wiring or weirdly enough even a bad cluster. I would start by checking the sensor itself. And working my way around. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I have measured resistance of both speed sensors on transmission, they are about 680 ohm (about the same resistance from new one that I bought from Autozone). Also measured the resistance between 2 wires of sensors, they are about 6.8k ohm. Mesaured the resistance of all 4 wheel sensors, they all have the very much the same resistance value. The resistance of 2 wires of these 4 sensors also have similar value. Thinking about the tire wore out that could cause the slippery indicator light to come on, so I have all new tires on. I am really exhausted. Thank you for any advise.
I've got a similar issue. ABS and traction control light was on and in limp mode so I scanned for codes and it said speed sensor. After changing it the car was fine for around 50 miles and then back in limp mode with the lights back on. I've tried to change the sensor again and read the codes and it still says front right speed sensor. Any help would be appreciated 🙏 Thanks
Ok so you changed it worked correctly for 50 miles went bad, so you changed it again? How long did it go after you changed it again? What’s the year make and model? What codes are in there or is it just the one speed sensor? Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie Thanks for the reply. After I changed it again it still shows the abs and traction light and also still in limp mode. Put it on the computer and it still says front right speed sensor. The car is a 60reg Ford smax 2.0 ecoboost 240. Thanks
Ok so then replacing it didn’t fix it for the 50 miles then? Sorry trying to get as many facts as I can to do my best to help you (it’s a lot easier diagnosing when I’m actually there haha). Can you list all engine and transmission codes you have? Also check your transmission fluid level make sure it’s up to the right position. But I’m curious is to when you replaced the sensor and it worked for 50 miles did it turn off the lights? Since it worked I assume it came out of limp mode. So if it did start to work then we know to focus on the wheel speed sensor or the actual abs module itself. Another test to do please is hook your scanner up go into the transmission data pids and watch the speed sensor in question see if it’s giving off readings.
@@JunkyardJunkie it's fine pal I appreciate the help. When I changed it the first time all the lights went out and the car felt better than ever but a day or 2 latter the lights came back on. Changed it again and the lights have not gone out and it's back in limp mode. The only codes that are coming up is for the front right speed sensor there are no other codes stored that's why I'm stuck not knowing what to do 🙈 I didn't want to waste money on something if someone had experienced this before.
Ok, so that at least gives you good direction. Sometimes when you have these problems it feels you have nothing that seems to work even though it only worked temporarily. So can you use your scan tool to view the live data pid for the wheel speed sensor and verify it’s getting the correct signals? That’s where I would start.
I have a trailblazer 07 and traction control light and abs light on, and you have any idea? I changed my steering angle sensor and hub bearings but still light comes on 🤷🏻♂️
My 2016 challenger rt. Constantly goes into limp mode. I replaced throttle, did relearn, replaced battery, nothing, replaced pedal accelerator sensor, nothing. Nothing works. But I do have the traction light on. I feel like it's the tune I have on my car causing it but I'm not sure. It's e85, popcorn tuned.
Is it just the traction control or is it the abs light too? Also, it could be a malfunction in the tune. if you have a tuner I would go back to default see how it runs then you’ll know if it’s your problem. Thanks for watching!
My dodge chargers abs light popped up last night I get a code 1417 my car is like over revving and then it kicks into gear or something then it feels like it goes into limp mode not sure what to do
Defaintly sounds like it could be your left (driver side) wheel speed sensor. I would check for voltage first. I would defiantly get this fixed sooner than later those hard shifts are not good on the transmission. Thanks for watching!
in this video you talk about the engine going into a “limp mode.” Is it possible that later models like 2014 have a safety feature that prevents you from placing the transmission in “D” drive or any gear?
So if you can’t switch out of park then usually it’s the brake safety switch. Usually there is a access port you can use to switch it out of gear (I show that in this video I’m going to link. It’s not the main thing in the video but I do show how it works. th-cam.com/video/vxrL7TONAR0/w-d-xo.html ). So this is what I would check first. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2008 Saturn aura the is in limp mode, esc off, service traction control, car stalls while driving. Please help!! Someone told me to replace the throttle body so i did and it still does the same thing. I don't have the money to keep guessing, please help me
@@JunkyardJunkie yes just waiting on my kids to get out of school and my car shut off but it started right back up and then all my lights lit up reduced engine power, esc off, service traction control smh and now my car has been sitting for over 3 months and I've wasted over $500 on fixing things it didn't need
I am having a similar issue. When I first turn my car on everything works normal. Within 5 mins of driving it the traction control light comes on and the rear window brake lights stay illuminated. Hyundai dealership said the brake switch needed replaced so I replaced it. Worked great for 2 weeks and now same issue. When it happens 5 mins into driving I loose acceleration speed and goes into limp mode where rpm gauges drop/dont move. I can also (depending on the day-doesnt do it all the time) start the car without putting my foot on the break or move gears without foot on the break. Is this the same issue? Thoughts? Help!! I really dont want to take it to Hyundai again and get ripped off for another 300 dollars kn service chargers. Last time the switch was like a 20 dollar part and they charge me 100 on top of that just for install. Ridiculous. Would love your insight. You have a new subscriber for life. I truly appreciate your videos.
Hey, so what is the year and model? Maybe there’s known problems for that specific car but from what your saying it does sound like it’s the brake switch. You shouldn’t be able to switch gears or start the car without depressing the brake. Honestly first I would contact the dealership and see if they will fix it if it is a faulty part. Then if they won’t I will try to help you replace it that way you can save a ton. Thanks for subscribing! Also thanks for watching! Best of luck.
@@JunkyardJunkie @Junkyard Junkie Thank you!! Its a 2012 hyundai sonata. I checked the recalls and there was one for a brake plunger. Is the brake plunger and brake switch? I put it into the Hyundai dealershio initially to replace the plunger but they told me it was fine and it was actually the switch that needed replaced. Like I said it helped for a week or two and then started right back up. Im wondering if this is actually whats really causing it. I called Hyundai again yesterday and am waiting for their manager to call me back. Since they didnt give 2 fucks today ill be calling in the morning again lol
@@JunkyardJunkie If it is recalled then they are replacing it. For sure. Shit i think they should anyways. But....if I have to do it myself I will. Im a do it yourself type kf gal and have fixed many parts, fridges, dryers, heaters, etc , myself. I dont like being taken advantage of just because I am a woman
So they are probably not recalling the brake switch plunger (there is a plunger on the switch. The recall you see is is probably more related to the master cylinder.). I checked it out it’s extremely easy to replace and I’ll walk you through it if we go that route. But the stealership usually just want your money. The fact it’s a constant problem they changed the switch and it worked for 2 weeks is most likely not a coincidence. How I logically try to think about it if there’s a constant variable (the issue) and there something I have changed to make it stop even for a brief time I try to follow that path. One thing to do now is go out to your car follow the brake pedal up about half way you’ll see the switch the plunger will be touching on the right side. See if there is a little rubber circle looking thing in between the pedal and the plunger itself. Also yes if this is the problem and they don’t fix it for you I would go talk to them about a refund. Some places a lot won’t even though they should warranty their work. That’s awesome! I also hope no one takes advantage of you because your a woman. We need more diy women like yourself. Keep me updated and I’ll try to walk through it with you the best I can.
Hey please reply I have a GH2 Impreza I recently change the transmission .. my car is in limp mode can't pass 4000 Rpm CEL and abs light is on I had my mechanic scan it and it only says front left abs not working ... So am wondering if that is causing limp mode
First what does the check engine light say? Second it’s possible but not likely if just one is out then the others should be able to keep it from going into limp mode unless that vechile was designed to go in limp mode if just one sensor was out. More important questions to ask, before you had the transmission changed did it work properly? Did you do the swap or did you have someone do it? Check the check engine light first that may have the reason you have the loss of power.
@@JunkyardJunkie both of them interconnected I have scan the car ... The codes are P0500 that's the only code because the abs sensor on the right wheel had snap when it was being work on
Sorry for late response but start with the wheel speed sensors I would check them out and make sure they are working. If you have a scan tool that can read abs codes that’s usually the easiest way to get good direction. Thanks for watching!
I think there amazing, other than using friction washer on crank and camshafts. But, it’s a good running reliable car. Just like with anything though, if the owner doesn’t take care of it, it will tear up.
I have a 2005 navigator with the same lights on dash with car and squiggly lines my truck is also in NO CRANK NO START MODE I read that anything off with the ABS on this truck can cause limp mode every shop I called says it's impossible for wheel speed sensors to cause LIMP MODE I i'm literally watching your video prove their idiots ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR ME my truck will start bypassing the starter solenoid and the LIMP MODE ! persists. they asked iwhen have I had a tune up? my coils and plugs are less than 6,000 miles old
Sorry to hear that. A lot of them want you to bring it in so they can rack up charges. Ok so to start simple I would recommended fixing the no crank no start. The first question is have you checked your relays? to be more specific check 203 and 01. Also did the limp mode start after the no crank no start?
@@JunkyardJunkie the limp mode happened first and when I came out Walmart it's been NO CRANK NO START! since then I can start it by a button someone rigged up long as the key is in on position truck is sitting at teansmission shop and they'll look at it Monday to see why tranny aint talking with PCM it seem like the tire sensors should fix it then ill be stuck with using that button to crank it. Which I'll have to deal with im with you I rather get the NO CRANK NO START handled first. I missed part if your question I haven't checked any relays ir fuses because I can only use one arm and the fuse bbox happen to be on my right side its damn impossible for me to check em I surmise that's the first thing theyll check I told the first dummy to check my PCM and ABS relays he said that they wouldn't have anything to do with it which is crazy considering he told me to just buy a new flashed PCM.
I’m sorry to hear you can only use one arm. You seem very logical because your right why would you be sold a pcm without checking something as simple as the relay for pcm which is number 203 as I said above. I know this has been the fix for the no start no crank on quite a few like yours. For the limp mode I always check the wheel speed sensors first if you pick up a scan tool with abs functionality you can check them out yourself that way no one will try to rip you off. Do you have any check engine codes did they say there was any transmission codes? Let me know what they find. Good luck!
Can you explain a little more. So when you first start your car if your battery is low the traction control and abs come on? But then once the alternator charges it up a little bit the lights go out?
My speedo works, car isn't in limp mode drives perfectly fine. But my ABS, VDC, AWD and Traction control lights are on. I had a mechanic change the wheel bearings on the front. So I'm thinking he damaged my wheel speed sensors.
I’m sorry to hear that. But, ya to put it short I believe you are correct especially if it appeared after his work. Your speedo still works and not in limp mode would be because he probably only damaged one of the sides (as long as one sides is still working it has the data to give to the computer). If I was you I’d take it back to him and explain if this is the case it’s his obligation to fix it. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
My traction control comes on when I hit between 38 -40mph .. then I feel my brakes kick in ( I think it's the automatic brake system ) then as soon I lower the speed to like 15mph the traction control light stop beeping and the censor light turns off
What about road conditions when it happens? Does it always happen at 38-40mph or is there certain events that have to go with it? Figure that out and it should help to narrow down what to look for. Also using live data on a scan tool that can read your wheel speed sensors voltage, see if it drops. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank u kindly for the advice my friend :) road conditions are good . No rain or anything on the roads .. It only does it when I reach about 38-40 mph .. I hope it isn't anything major .. Cross your fingers for my dudes :)
My 1998 Lincoln town car Trac active light comes on after a minute of driving it and then it making it hard to accelerate. The Trac active light comes on and goes off comes on goes off keep repeating itself and everytime it causes it to not accelerate causing me to pull over. I replace my air rising shocks for the rear because one of the shocks was losing air causing the rear to rise and the drop. But after I replace them that's when the issue started I have went to numerous mechanic they can't figure it out I really need your help.
Ok so a few things I need to ask. Did you or someone else replace the shocks? When whoever did it, did they damage the wheel speed sensor? Up next has anyone pulled the abs codes from the car? Also do you have access to a good scan tool that can read abs live data PIDS? Also can you drive for a certain amount of time before it starts turning on and off? Where I would start is making sure all the wheel speed sensors are good and none of them got damaged in the line creating a short to ground. But getting more data from a scan tool should also show you a lot too. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I changed my driver side air rise shock because I had or thought it had a hole in it but there was air coming out of it. I didn't start doing it until I change a tire.
So, something really weird, my mom’s Buick Lacrosse CXL 2009 has a ABS/Traction control light that will come on occasionally but it wont stay on, and neither of my scan tools read anything on the car. My 2 scan tools are a Bluedriver and a Bosch scan tool (the one that comes with the older vehicle adaptors and a OBD2 adapter). I replaced the wheel hub because the TPMS looked a bit beat up but it didn’t fix it. I suspect that it’s a wiring issue but I don’t see any obvious issues with the wiring, no pinching no cut wires no damaged plugs, etc. i have not cut the plastic wire harness to look inside all the wiring. There’s also a odd knocking noise under the car when i’m in drive but you can only hear it at low speeds. I suspect that this is the ball joint or control arm, either way they are all one assembly so i’m going to replace them.
Ya it sounds like it could be a wiring issue. But, if it’s not causing trouble you can find it in time or as it gets worse it’ll be easier to pin point. Those are always the worst. If your hearing a knocking/clunking sound then your probably right but I definitely suggest verifying it. take a quick look at the ball joints and control arm bushings. Also you can have someone rock it back and forth while in park and you’ll probably be able to hear where it’s coming from easier. best of luck! Thanks for watching!
Generic. On the 2010 & some other year Jeep Patriots, the wheel hub usually is so rusty that they aren't allowing the signal to reach the sped sensor. On Jeeps the speed sensor cable-ends were all black for my 2010 anyways. And removing a rear wheel hub assembly on these vehicles are terrible. All the Jeep Lines made from 2005 up to 2013 were not made to last at all in the Rust-Belt States... I opted out of driving newer Jeeps and am sticking with my 93 Cherokee. Made before OBD2 came out but it only has around a total of 10 fault codes....
I can defiantly say I’m glad not to have to work in the rust belt haha. But, I do prefer vehicles 96 and newer with the obd2 system it’s so easy to go through live data and diagnose problems quickly. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I hear ya there. I am looking for a 96 or 97 because my wife said she'd love to be driving another XJ. I was so glad to hear her say that to me...
It’s defiantly not fun. If you have a good scan tool you can usually talk to the modules and see what you need. Or sometimes you have to just bite the bullet and let someone else diagnose it for you. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
I assume you’re being sarcastic but I’ll answer you anyways. No, the problem in this is the computer isn’t detecting the wheel speed. So, removing more sensors wouldn’t help the problem it would only make it worse in terms of time to fix. Thanks for watching!
Nope.not at ALL sir,not sarcastic,just a guy asking a sincere question ⁉️ I assume this is you calling me stupid but i admit I'm no mechanic,but having some issues ATM and looking for quick and cheap fixes as im on a budget
I apologize the way your wrote it seemed like sarcasm. If your looking for a way to fix it cheap have you got a scan tool that can read your abs? If not you can always take it to a shop and ask them to just do a scan but you’ll do the work. That’s the best way to save money usually. Hope this helps if you have questions I’ll do my best to answer.
@@JunkyardJunkie absolutely,thank you,I'm trying my hardest to gain ALL the tools and knowledge but yet to have my own scanner,next up though 🤷🏼♂️ What's sad is that I feel like I done it to the sensor MYSELF. Would some poorly repaired wiring cause this issue? I fractured the wiring while doing work on it,and feel this could be it🤷🏼♂️is this possible? ALSO,if I remove ALL if the stuff in regards to the abs would this fix it back to normal,like my 4x4 work and such? Sounds bad but,I don't know if i need abs🤷🏼♂️
Hey no worries you will acquire all the tools you need over time. To be honest with you other than a good scanner you can do 90% of all jobs with a basic set from harbor freight. Other tools like the electric ratchet, impact gun and other things only speed up the process and makes it a easier job. but, anyone can do it with basic tools. Don’t feel bad if your broke a wire yourself. all the best make rookie mistakes from time to time. If they say they don’t then their lying haha. I actually accidentally broke a speed sensor the other day. But anyways, yes if you broke the wire to the speed sensor then try to fix it yourself, there’s a good chance you may need to buy a new one. Honestly I would most vehicles have really cheap after market parts so most likely you’d be spending around 20$ for a sensor give or take. So now to your final questions. Do you need abs? No early cars didn’t have them they do improve safety by stopping your car from looking up and sliding further than if it didn’t. But you can still stop just fine. But, just taking everything off isn’t going to get you anywhere. Unfortunately the computer will not allow this it uses the abs sensors (wheel speed sensors) to detect the speed of your wheels which is why it will put you in limp mode to protect you from damaging your vehicle. So if you remove all of it the computer will still look for it. So really the best course of action is to fix it. I hope this helps!
I’m sorry this was one of my earlier videos. I didn’t have a good mic. I’ve upgraded since then. But there’s only background noise when I drive which is a very small section. I hope you find what your looking for. Have a great day!
@@JunkyardJunkie no worries. and i'm still looking for a solution as i don't have faith in the mechanic i went to who still can't figure out what it is. i paid him $160 already and he told me to come back this week and he'll try to decide if it's a wheel bearing or electrical, that the cost could be $1000. whaaat? it seems that his shop doesn't have all the tools.
This is EXACTLY what my 2015 Fusion is doing and it has the same codes. 3 left front speed system and one for the right so I was confused. THANK YOU!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Im a female, and this was great .. bought a 2015 rogue for my daughtr that did this, we sold it because she wanted a diff veh.. never tried to figure it out but this was it Im sure .. so easy fix and because of it we lost a ton of $$.. thx for showing !
Thank you! That’s really awesome you’re learning all of this, it will really pay off down the road. Hopefully if you ever do have that problem again you will be able to fix it and save some money haha. Thanks for watching!
A female what? Human? Dog? Cat? Elephant? A female refers to any species. Did you mean to dehumanize yourself?
Bro this helped me fix my wife's car, good video, thanks!
Good, i'm glad it helped!
Nice work man. No nonsense presentation easy to understand. Solid and rightious! In my exp limp mode is an absolute safety risk and put everyone inside the car at risk of whiplash. Because many times I have been in 5th or 6th gear on the freeway and it can literally rip you out of freeway speeds 65mph down into to 3rd gear violently. I have pulled to codes on my Mazda 6 P0766 and if forget the other atm. One has to do with the silonoid b and the other code has to do with possibly throwing the other code in relation. Apologies I am tired so I won't even begin to bore you with my 91 Miata odometer and left fast left turn blink loss of power related to try to make a left turn. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! That means a lot! But, I agree with you limp mode is a lot of the time unnecessary and like you said can be dangerous. I will say though that the idea is good in theory. to put a vehicle in a limp mode so they can’t destroy it. It would save a ton of cars. I’ve met so many people that will ignore huge signs to stop and then need major repairs. P0766 shift solenoid d isn’t working correctly. But, I got to say I love the Mazda 6 I’ve been trying to find one for a decent price. What year is yours? As for the 91 Miata a lot of people love that car. I’m sure there’s a Facebook group that know all about that specific car. But anyways have a good day!
Hello there! Mine one is Nissan X-trail NT-31 Model Year 2011. When I am started to drive the Traction Control light OFF sing appears spontaneously. Sometimes it is not seen in the dashboard. But all of a sudden it appears back again! Please advice for correction. Thank you in advance.
I would start off by having it scanned to see if there’s any codes left over. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Quality video bro. My car hesitates and traction light with abs comes on. It then drives normally with a quite erratic rpm. Scanned and gave code c1105 for right rear sensor. Do u reckon that'll fix the issue? Its an altima 2013 3.5.
It’s possible. Was there any more codes or anything to go along with it? And is the hesitation and lights instant together?
@JunkyardJunkie The only code that came on was c1105. The car jerks a bit, then traction and abs lights come on right after.
I have a 2015 Nissan Altima 2.5 S w/84,000 miles. It has gone into limp mode 3 times with the traction control and ABS codes appearing. I have been to 2 mechanics (one is on the fence btw the transmission and sensor / voltage issues and the other could not get the codes to come up) FYI- We replaced the battery. I have also gone to 2 different transmission shops ( one said I needed a complete rebuild for $5,400 and the other said it was not the transmission and got the same codes to come up when he heated it up) I am SO frustrated!!! Does this issue sound like what your video was about? Would like to hear your thoughts.
Sounds like a headache. First what are the exact codes the mechanic got? The transmission shop that said it needs to be overhauled go back and ask how they came to the conclusion as the other shop said that it wasn’t the issue. If they are a legit shop they will explain exactly how they came to that diagnosis. I defiantly need more info to come to any kind of conclusion. But I will be honest with you Nissan CVT transmissions are known for having issues and going bad with low mileages. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
A coupla times my Traction control lite came on and went into limp mode in the last year. Reading up on my Toyota Rav4 manual, it says unscrew/rescrew the gas cap. I did and the car returned to normal. I dont get why a slightly loose gas cap throws a car into limp mode.
What year is yours? But normally evap system shouldn’t be related to the abs and traction control part but limp mode can come if the designer feels there’s danger if the car keeps running so it puts it in limp mode. In your case the only thing that comes to mind is if the pressures in the gas tank were getting out of perimeters. But I’d have to look more into it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@JunkyardJunkie ....2007 Rav4, 4 cyl, 2AZ-FE.
Hi so i have a nissan murano it was working find and well the battery went bad so i remplace it but once it the first time everything was good tye next day my murano lost power n would not go more then 40 mph n it takes 4 ever to get 2 40mph my question is you think its Limp mode ?
Do you get any abs lights or any lights at all? If there’s not lights I’m more inclined to think you may have a clogged catalytic converter. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Was driving in the thick snow last night and I hit a big snow patch and the traction control light came on. I started sliding everywhere and felt like no control over the car. It finally went off when i pulled in driveway. But i am concerned, just bought the car. Thoughts?
So a few things I’d ask is was there ice? How long was it on for? If you just experienced it the one time? But, if the conditions where really bad I wouldn’t worry about it. My car every time it rains and I skim a puddle it’ll kick on. It does that to let you know it’s lost control and to take it easy. Thanks for watching!
When the car is in limp mode, does it make a louder noise?
No it shouldn’t. Does the noise only happen when it goes into it? Where does it sound like it’s coming from?
Will this reader work for the ABS system on a 2007 dodge charger? I got a 35$ reader off Amazon and wasn’t anything popped up about ABS. My traction light is on and ABS light sometimes comes on and when my brakes get hot it seems like my brake light comes on and it goes straight into limp mode. I have changed the brakes etc this is driving me insane 😢
Yes this Autel will read abs. Unfortunately, the cheaper ones can’t do much other than regular pcm codes. I know it can be frustrating but a good scan tool will help you a lot. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Hello bro i jave a 3.8 genesis coupe and last week abs and tc light came on , and i have been "detuned" because i have some engine code, but lately i have po123 , p0222 and p2105,p2106,p2110,p2159 , p0507...i cleaned the throttle body and sensor, the map sensor, the pedal accelerator...and when im driving i can have full power and 30sec the car is restricted to 5k rpm and is 30%less powerful minimum...i only have a little scantool but cant do abs.
I had a tb controller, but i removed it thinking it could have been the cause
To me this is a issue more with the fuel injectors. potential pcm issues. Needs further diag for sure. For the abs and tc light you will have to get a little better scan tool or let a shop scan it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie so u think its more a pcm problem than the tb or tb module, gaz pedal sensor or maybe a fuel control module?
Would this cause the transmission to never actually shift out of first? I do have a slap shift gear box but the dash is not recognizing that, nor when I leave it in just drive the transmission will not shift out of first...
Yes this can make that happen. From what it sounds like it is your problem. If you have a scan tool to read abs you can verify. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkieI’m having the same problem. My ABS light is on as well as traction control light. I have scanned the codes and the only codes I have that are sensors are, 02, fuel level and oil pressure sensor. The other two codes I’m pulling are Lost connection to TCM and Internal Control Module. If I do what you did here would this fix the reason my 07’ charger r/t went into limp mode you think? I could shift out of first gear until I restarted my vehicle
I have a 2011 lancer and it drives fine,but sometimes the traction control light comes on and slows down my car and also does the same when I brake sometimes got 2 codes, steering angle sensor(C1219) and (C123B) system control too long.
Does that have to do with the traction control light?
What should I replace,thank you in advance.
Yes the steering angle sensor will in fact cause this to happen. Both codes listed can both directly be related to the sensor so it’s most likely the culprit. But if you have a good scan tool you can check the sensor to see if it’s working properly. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you so much for your help 🙏 God bless.
Hey brotha I have a 2018 Nissan Altima and the brake switch was acting up so I bought a new one and it was working fine then the traction control light came on and the car started slowing down even though I was pushing on the accelerator
When pressing the accelerator did it act like it was driving to give it power but couldn’t or did it just have 0 power like in this video? If the traction control light came on somethings going on in the system. I would start by having it scanned and see what codes pull up.
Hey i have this problem in a 2011 nissan quest where i was parking and i was pressing on the accelerator and it wasnt accerlerating also in reverse it has the same problem and i turned it off and it didnt start back up and i used a jumper pack and it started but then the abs and stability control light came on and i also had no power steering. I turned it off, and now it doesn't start with the jumper pack. I was wondering if you know what the problem is
I’m going to be honest with you that sounds like more diag will defiantly be needed. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@JunkyardJunkie found the problem and turns out it was a bad alternator and the battery was running out.
happend to me on my way to school in my 06 Daytona. thanks man
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching and best of luck!
2018 hilux, into limp mode with an engine light and a traction control light...I was towing a small caravan and it was a hot day...waited 10 mins and away it went as if nothing had happened ...the lights stayed on for the rest of the journey..the garage couldn't find anything wrong...any help...thank you.
What were all the codes in each of the modules?
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you for your reply, I'm sorry as they were wiped at the garage but it was mentioned something about turbo boost and traction control...I have seen on utube that the same dash lights were a wheel sensor..??
If the garage did a diag on it and found nothing, then unfortunately you will have to have more diagnostics done. This doesn’t seem like it will be an easy solution especially over the internet. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Hello I have a 2011 Nissan Altima. My VDC or vehicle dynamic control light comes on when I start my car. I goes off and comes back on when in park. If I drive when it goes off it will not come back on unless I am in park. Do you think changing the ABS sensors will do the trick?
I wouldn’t change the sensors first. Start with checking your brake fluid level make sure it’s at the correct level. Let me know if it is. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie Thanks for the reply. Yes I it is and I noticed my coolant was low so I filled it to the Max line while engine was cold. I unhooked the negative terminal on my battery and took it for a spin. It did turn back on at one point. Now it seems to now come on at all. My check engine light is still on for MAF sensor. Due to a shorted ground says dealership. Been an issue for a year. Also two new codes this past evening. P0101 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction and C1130 Right Rear Height Sensor Circuit Out Of Range.
Hello. Your so good men, you answer all questions here. The video used Mazda as a model. What about Ford Focus 2012 year made, TDCI? Its same way to change the sensor cable at the wheel? I facing same problems, based on owners manual, they called it Electronic Stablity Control (ESP). It comes on when I driving. And my car become slow. But not everytimes, I facing this kind of of problems about 3 times already. When I shut down the engine and start restart, no more ESP symbols. But it not solve my problems, after this I believes it will comes again. Please advices. Thank you very much Junkyard Junkie.
Thank you! So yes this principal is used across the board. So this is most likely your problem as well. Is your abs light on as well? Is there any other lights or symptoms? Do you have a scan tool that you can read the wheel speed sensors? Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
ABS light not on. Only ESP light on, sometimes. I dont have scan tools. My idea for temporary, I want to turn off ESP function. There a button at steering, we can see it at screen when we select menu.. What do you think? Maybe you have an opinion.
Good video man and thanks for the tool tips. However - one piece of missing info; you didn't list the vehicle. I can tell that it's a Mazda CX-7, but that year?
Hey thank you that means a lot! Sorry about that it’s a 2010 cx-7. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie Because of this video I got in my car and went to my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts and bought an Innova 5410 CarScan tool for $179. Thanks for the push! I've owned a Bosch Mobile Scan for years but it's no longer supported on my Android phone and Apple is dropping support of the app as well soon. And that thing often gave me so much trouble getting and staying connected via Bluetooth. Really looking forward to playing with the OBDII/ABS/SRS tools on it. I'm here in the first place because my 2004 Mazda 6S V6 has that same crappy flashing lights and bouncing tach/speedo thing going on. It's definitely an ABS issue and now I have the right tool to (hopefully!) define the problem.
That’s awesome! Also the scan tool will pay for itself it time and I’m sure you’ll be able to figure out the problem and get it fixed. Good luck!
@@JunkyardJunkie Figured out my problem!! The pins in my OBD2 connector on my Mazda 6 were not making good contact with the scan tool connector! My previous Bosch Mobile Scan was something I'd often forget was connected and I did a lot of driving with it in place. Took me a while to realize it but keeping it connected while driving, coupled with the faulty pins, caused lots of drama on my gage lights as well as codes being thrown. A couple hours in awkward positions pulling out each pin one by one and using a small flat screw driver - watch repair sized - to add more spring pressure to each connector pin (about 10 of them) made all the difference in the world! And I was able to use my new Innova scan tool to sniff out the ABS and IC (Instrument Cluster) codes that were set and clear them. Yahoo!
Great video well explain ... what if only the traction light is on will I have to do the same process?
Thank you! The process will usually be the same it’s still most likely going to be your wheel speed sensors. There is a chance it could be something else like bad programming or a steering problem. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Does the engine light go on too since it goes into limp mode? If yes, what code does it throw?
Depends on the car. But for most part it usually won’t pop a engine light, instead it will pop a abs light. From there you can check abs codes. If it did pop a engine code I would think it was loss of communications to the abs module or if the vehicle has a speed sensor in the transmission that may also pop up as a code. But no matter what if it’s a regular check engine light you can go to auto parts store and use there scanner for free to get a reading of it. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
I'm having the same issue and the code reader is not reading correctly but I had the abs light on for 5 years and I gotten new tires now the car will limp I replaced the accelerator the car is in limp. So when I did my last inspection I turned the wheels and pumped the brakes then the check engine light came on but it's telling me throttle I got a new throttle then another mechanic did a diagnostic then all these different codes popped up some with C1131 C1132 but I can't get a clear answer
Is it a Nissan? If so those are codes you don’t really want to have as they will require further diag then I’ll be able to give over comments. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I need to get another diagnosis
ABS, Hand Brake, and Traction control lights on. I just remembered that a couple days ago, the Tire’s air pressure light was on and then off. I have a 2010 Mazda 3 hatchback. Hope this fixes it
This will usually be it. The computers get finicky over the abs sensors. But yours has a extra thing going on, your parking brake light is also on. It may be just a separate problem but something to consider. Good luck! Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
Bro I have the same exact thing do you know what it was I’m going crazy I’ve been through 4 mechanics
I litterally have the exact same thing same car
My at light is on too but I already replaced my tcm
Do you know if a faulty ABS module would ever cause the ECM to go into security mode and not let the car start? My 2006 Dodge Durango is giving me code U1120 - Lost Wheel Distance Message. I've replaced the ECM twice, both times the car would be running just fine and then, out of the blue, it wouldn't start. I have full power to everything (except the radio won't turn on) and all my gauges work. I can hear the car click when I turn the key but nothing happens. Thanks for the informative video!
So, there’s not a security mode for that however it runs on the CAN bus and could cause the issue potentially. From the manual Set conditions for this code is The PCM doesn’t receive a wheel distance message from the antilock brake module or FCM(non abs) over the CAN C BUS.
Possible causes
- CAN C BUS open or shorted.
- antilock brake module
- or the PCM
So I can’t do a whole lot with out being there but the first thing to look for is if there is other dtc with it specifically u0121 or p0141? Do you have a scan tool that is capable of checking for these? If so let me know what comes back and I’ll tell you what the manual says to look for next.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks you for this video. Been dealing with this problem with my 2014 Chrysler 300(6 liter 3.6). TC light is on and ABS brake sensor is on the dash. It goes into limp mode as you said in the video, my car doesn’t let me go over 3kRPM and stays around 2.5k-2.7kRPMS; usually does it after I rev at highway speed and TC light starts blinking. I’ll be trying this out to see if this fixes my problem. Thank you
I’m glad I could help. Best of luck to you. Thanks for watching!
Did you ever fix the problem if so, what was it?
I have the abs light on and the slippery icon on at the same time but it keeps coming on and off trying to learn I'm a rookie mechanic trying to figure out if fine or get it checked.
Do they both go out? How long do they usually come on for? Is there any certain conditions when it comes on such as rainy days only?
@@JunkyardJunkie it wasn't even raining and I was like what the heck but it drives fine and all the breaks works and most of my coworkers told me not to worry about ABS light I have mine on and it drives just fine that's what they told me. It could be the sensors but I don't hear anything bad in the car
Ya you won’t hear anything wrong in the car and most likely a sensor is bad. They are correct that it will still work but they won’t be as effective in a emergency. Abs is anti-lock break system. This helps the car grab traction and slow down faster (older cars don’t have this so it’s not like you have to have it but I do recommend when you have some spare time and money to fix it.). Thanks for watching!
I have a 2011 jeep patriot with a abs traction light on. I replaced front left abs sensor and lights are still on. I have an autel im508 that i used to erase check engine codes for 02 sensor and evap leak,how can i turn off abs light on im508???
Hi! I have a 2007 Pontiac G6 Gt and back in July, I got new tires put onto my car. About a week goes by and I’m on the interstate and all of the sudden I feel a shift and my traction control light comes on and displays a ‘service traction control’ message on the screen. Since then, it comes on and off but recently, it’s been happening a lot more often. The main times that this happens is when I’m on either the highway or interstate going at least 65-70mph. I’ve done some research on it but it’s hard to figure out exactly what it is since everyone has different answers. I found one post online that said it could be the transmission fluid level but if it could be as simple as a wheel sensor, I’m all for it! I’m hoping it’s something like that rather than having to spend 100s of dollars. I’m going on a 10+hr trip in 2 weeks and want to make sure everything is fixed and ready to go by then! If you could give me any ideas as to what this could be, that would be much appreciated! Also, I forgot to mention, the reason I thought it could be the transmission fluid level is because when the light comes on for the traction control, it seems to shift harder than usual. For example, if I’m slowing down after the interstate and the light is still on, and I come to a complete stop, when I go to accelerate again, I can feel the transmission shift ‘hard’ when I’m going through the gears to get back up to speed. I’m not sure if that helps but more info is better than not enough! Thank you so much for this video, very helpful and gave me another option to what it could be. Hope to hear from you soon! Thanks!
Sorry to hear that’s happening. You’re right I’d rather have a bunch of useless information then not enough information. The more details the better chance I or others can help. With that being said do you get a ABS light when this happens? If so I would think maybe one of your speed sensors may be the problem. But if you don’t have the abs light come on then I would want to see the communications to the modules that control it. I’ve worked on a couple of these and they always seem riddled with issues from my experience. So with that said the best advice I can give you is to do one of two things. 1 buy a scan tool that can talk to other modules (highly recommend Autel). If you do this you’ll be able to see information that’s missing and watch live data and see if something is falling off or not communicating when the issue occurs. Or 2 take it to your local mechanic shop you trust and eat the diag fee to figure out the cause for sure. The hard shifting is never good for the transmission. I don’t think it’s coming from low fluid you would usually be experiencing more problems. I know this isn’t very helpful but unfortunately this is one of the cases that you will have to get more information to figure it out. Best of luck! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie The only other light that is on is the check engine light but in the past it has came on and it was the ‘catalyst efficiency low’ code and they said it’s still okay to drive since it’s the emissions that are being affected. So Im pretty sure that’s why that light is still on but the abs light hasn’t came on at all. I’ve had the codes read at orileys everytime the engine light has came on, do you think that is a good option to get the codes and everything? Since I don’t own a scan tool. Thank you again for your help! Definitely helps with the process of figuring out what’s wrong! Will be coming back to your page for any other vehicle issues!
So I wouldn’t worry about that check engine light. But yes orileys autozone and others are ok for regular trouble codes. But there scan tools can’t talk to the BCM, ABS, TCM and others. This is why it’s not a good option for your case now. The cheapest easiest way is to get a mechanic to check it out with the proper scan tool most shops will cost 100-200$ but it’s worth it to figure out the problem. Hope this helps. Good luck.
how can you disable the system if abs sabilatrak and abs traction control lights com on and your car go into limp mode.
i was about 120 miles from home and my 2011 impala went into limp mode with the warning lights.
my code reader was at home and i had to stop at a auto zone to find out the problem then drive home in limp mode to fix the problem.
driving home in limp mode was a real pain in the a**.
Ya been there don’t that before haha. But really not much you can do, if certain parameters are not met then it’s going to stay in limp mode. Some cars have ways to bypass them sometimes but not usually.
I own a Mazda CX 7 2007.My speedometer works just fine, my Abs light doesn't come on but my traction control light wouldn't just go off. What could possibly be the cause of that? I'd appreciate any assistance. Thanks
Try this for me start car. turn steering wheel all the way to the right till it stops, then turn it all the way to the left till it stops and then rotate it back to the middle. turn off the car then start it back up. Do that and let me know if it works for you. Thanks for watching!
Okay sir.... I will do just that.
Let me know if it works.
My ford ranger 2012 2.2 traction light comes on and enters limp mode so i am presuming this wiuld fix it
It’s possible but I don’t recommended just throwing parts at it. I would confirm with a scan tool just to be sure. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much !!! Great description and great phots with it.
Hey, thanks for watching! I appreciate the kind words! Hope you have a great day!
My car did this but it wouldn't communicate with the garages scan tool. Im having to take it to a Mazda dealership now and im not expecting to be able to afford the repairs.
Was it a reputable garage? I hate to hear that. Let me know what the dealership says and maybe I can help you out. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Yes unfortunately it was a trusted garage so must be some expensive reason why the dealership are oimg to quote me
Thanks dude, looks really helpful. Will give this a shot 👍
Glad I was able to help. Good luck, thanks for watching!
Very informative. Thank you!!!
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
Hi mate I have an Audi A5 2009 when I turn on the car everything works fine but after some seconds when I’m start driving the speedo goes to zero abs epc esp lights came on and shows me also brake warning contact workshop.
If I turn off the car everything goes to normal but after a while is doing the same thing.
I was on audi yesterday. They did a Dignostic and they couldn’t find any faults because they told me that my ecu has been upgraded.
and when they try to find the faults the computer is crushing and doesn’t show any fault.
1 another guy told that the gateway and the wiring has been changed.
I have no idea what the problem is but I have saw many videos of you and u find solutions for everything
Thank you for the compliment I try haha. But first how long have you had the car? If they couldn’t read the codes because of a upgraded ecu (which I dont understand why they couldn’t gather data) then did they atleast not charge you? Did they give you any info on how the wiring had been changed? That’s a pretty big deal. Always gather as much data from this as possible. But speedo dropping makes me think abs or crank/cam sensors. But since when it happens all the stuff related to the abs comes on that’s where I would start. If you have a scan tool that can read live data from abs plug it in and have someone ride with you. Let them watch the data or just record the data (most scan tools on that level can record) then when it happens see if the wheel speed sensors drop off voltage wise and lose there speed. If they do then just follow that path to fix it. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thanks for the answer.I bought the car with this problem. They did no charge me but they told that odis is crushing and they can not see any faults in 2 different places they told me same thing.i don’t have any scan tool or staf like that. One of the mechanics he did live diagnostic when the car was driving once he told one from the wheels is running more that the others and after he told me no every wheel is running on the same time. So I’m confused I don’t know. At the begging he told me that my gateway has been change and the wiring. And that’s this is a problem.
The car has a lot of items from
Rs5 wheels brakes discs. They told me also if the change the abs unit they can’t do codding because Tommy gateway has been changed to an rs5 probably I have no idea.
@@JunkyardJunkie update
It shows me on vagcom error code 00597
Any idea what’s going on?
Also I forgot to say my tyres are 275/30/20 front and 285/30/20 rear
I have 2010 Lexus IS250.
The Slippery Light and Check engine light came on at the same time when driving up the ramp to enter freeway. The trouble code is P0500 (speed sensor A).This happened about 1-2 miles after I cleared the code with scanner.
After I clear the code but driving within city streets for 15 miles, the light did not come on.
Any idea? Thanks.
Hey with these sensors when they fail they can partially fail where it only comes up sometimes until it fails completely. Since yours is a Lexus I looked up a few things on them it could be the sensor the wiring or weirdly enough even a bad cluster. I would start by checking the sensor itself. And working my way around. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie
I have measured resistance of both speed sensors on transmission, they are about 680 ohm (about the same resistance from new one that I bought from Autozone). Also measured the resistance between 2 wires of sensors, they are about 6.8k ohm.
Mesaured the resistance of all 4 wheel sensors, they all have the very much the same resistance value. The resistance of 2 wires of these 4 sensors also have similar value.
Thinking about the tire wore out that could cause the slippery indicator light to come on, so I have all new tires on.
I am really exhausted. Thank you for any advise.
I've got a similar issue. ABS and traction control light was on and in limp mode so I scanned for codes and it said speed sensor. After changing it the car was fine for around 50 miles and then back in limp mode with the lights back on. I've tried to change the sensor again and read the codes and it still says front right speed sensor. Any help would be appreciated 🙏
Thanks
Ok so you changed it worked correctly for 50 miles went bad, so you changed it again? How long did it go after you changed it again? What’s the year make and model? What codes are in there or is it just the one speed sensor?
Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie Thanks for the reply. After I changed it again it still shows the abs and traction light and also still in limp mode. Put it on the computer and it still says front right speed sensor. The car is a 60reg Ford smax 2.0 ecoboost 240.
Thanks
Ok so then replacing it didn’t fix it for the 50 miles then? Sorry trying to get as many facts as I can to do my best to help you (it’s a lot easier diagnosing when I’m actually there haha). Can you list all engine and transmission codes you have? Also check your transmission fluid level make sure it’s up to the right position. But I’m curious is to when you replaced the sensor and it worked for 50 miles did it turn off the lights? Since it worked I assume it came out of limp mode. So if it did start to work then we know to focus on the wheel speed sensor or the actual abs module itself. Another test to do please is hook your scanner up go into the transmission data pids and watch the speed sensor in question see if it’s giving off readings.
@@JunkyardJunkie it's fine pal I appreciate the help. When I changed it the first time all the lights went out and the car felt better than ever but a day or 2 latter the lights came back on. Changed it again and the lights have not gone out and it's back in limp mode. The only codes that are coming up is for the front right speed sensor there are no other codes stored that's why I'm stuck not knowing what to do 🙈 I didn't want to waste money on something if someone had experienced this before.
Ok, so that at least gives you good direction. Sometimes when you have these problems it feels you have nothing that seems to work even though it only worked temporarily. So can you use your scan tool to view the live data pid for the wheel speed sensor and verify it’s getting the correct signals? That’s where I would start.
I have a trailblazer 07 and traction control light and abs light on, and you have any idea? I changed my steering angle sensor and hub bearings but still light comes on 🤷🏻♂️
Hey do you have a scan tool that can scan abs? If so I always start with the actual wheel speed sensors first. They are a common cause and easy fix.
My 2016 challenger rt. Constantly goes into limp mode. I replaced throttle, did relearn, replaced battery, nothing, replaced pedal accelerator sensor, nothing. Nothing works. But I do have the traction light on. I feel like it's the tune I have on my car causing it but I'm not sure. It's e85, popcorn tuned.
Is it just the traction control or is it the abs light too? Also, it could be a malfunction in the tune. if you have a tuner I would go back to default see how it runs then you’ll know if it’s your problem. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie just the traction light
My dodge chargers abs light popped up last night I get a code 1417 my car is like over revving and then it kicks into gear or something then it feels like it goes into limp mode not sure what to do
Defaintly sounds like it could be your left (driver side) wheel speed sensor. I would check for voltage first. I would defiantly get this fixed sooner than later those hard shifts are not good on the transmission. Thanks for watching!
in this video you talk about the engine going into a “limp mode.” Is it possible that later models like 2014 have a safety feature that prevents you from placing the transmission in “D” drive or any gear?
So if you can’t switch out of park then usually it’s the brake safety switch. Usually there is a access port you can use to switch it out of gear (I show that in this video I’m going to link. It’s not the main thing in the video but I do show how it works. th-cam.com/video/vxrL7TONAR0/w-d-xo.html ). So this is what I would check first. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2008 Saturn aura the is in limp mode, esc off, service traction control, car stalls while driving. Please help!! Someone told me to replace the throttle body so i did and it still does the same thing. I don't have the money to keep guessing, please help me
What check engines codes are you having? Did it start out of no where?
@@JunkyardJunkie yes just waiting on my kids to get out of school and my car shut off but it started right back up and then all my lights lit up reduced engine power, esc off, service traction control smh and now my car has been sitting for over 3 months and I've wasted over $500 on fixing things it didn't need
Does the abs and limp home automatically clear or did you have to clear it manually
You can do it ether way. But, I just installed took it for a drive and it reset on its own due to being able to communicate. Hope this helps!
My 2008 Mercury mountaineer is only going 30 mph I don't know what's going on
Try some of the steps I’ve done here or check for clogged catalytic converter. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I am having a similar issue. When I first turn my car on everything works normal. Within 5 mins of driving it the traction control light comes on and the rear window brake lights stay illuminated. Hyundai dealership said the brake switch needed replaced so I replaced it. Worked great for 2 weeks and now same issue. When it happens 5 mins into driving I loose acceleration speed and goes into limp mode where rpm gauges drop/dont move. I can also (depending on the day-doesnt do it all the time) start the car without putting my foot on the break or move gears without foot on the break. Is this the same issue? Thoughts? Help!! I really dont want to take it to Hyundai again and get ripped off for another 300 dollars kn service chargers. Last time the switch was like a 20 dollar part and they charge me 100 on top of that just for install. Ridiculous. Would love your insight. You have a new subscriber for life. I truly appreciate your videos.
Hey, so what is the year and model? Maybe there’s known problems for that specific car but from what your saying it does sound like it’s the brake switch. You shouldn’t be able to switch gears or start the car without depressing the brake. Honestly first I would contact the dealership and see if they will fix it if it is a faulty part. Then if they won’t I will try to help you replace it that way you can save a ton. Thanks for subscribing! Also thanks for watching! Best of luck.
@@JunkyardJunkie @Junkyard Junkie Thank you!! Its a 2012 hyundai sonata. I checked the recalls and there was one for a brake plunger. Is the brake plunger and brake switch? I put it into the Hyundai dealershio initially to replace the plunger but they told me it was fine and it was actually the switch that needed replaced. Like I said it helped for a week or two and then started right back up. Im wondering if this is actually whats really causing it. I called Hyundai again yesterday and am waiting for their manager to call me back. Since they didnt give 2 fucks today ill be calling in the morning again lol
@@JunkyardJunkie If it is recalled then they are replacing it. For sure. Shit i think they should anyways. But....if I have to do it myself I will. Im a do it yourself type kf gal and have fixed many parts, fridges, dryers, heaters, etc , myself. I dont like being taken advantage of just because I am a woman
So they are probably not recalling the brake switch plunger (there is a plunger on the switch. The recall you see is is probably more related to the master cylinder.). I checked it out it’s extremely easy to replace and I’ll walk you through it if we go that route. But the stealership usually just want your money. The fact it’s a constant problem they changed the switch and it worked for 2 weeks is most likely not a coincidence. How I logically try to think about it if there’s a constant variable (the issue) and there something I have changed to make it stop even for a brief time I try to follow that path. One thing to do now is go out to your car follow the brake pedal up about half way you’ll see the switch the plunger will be touching on the right side. See if there is a little rubber circle looking thing in between the pedal and the plunger itself.
Also yes if this is the problem and they don’t fix it for you I would go talk to them about a refund. Some places a lot won’t even though they should warranty their work.
That’s awesome! I also hope no one takes advantage of you because your a woman. We need more diy women like yourself. Keep me updated and I’ll try to walk through it with you the best I can.
Also if you have a scan tool check to make sure there is no pending codes.
Hey please reply I have a GH2 Impreza I recently change the transmission .. my car is in limp mode can't pass 4000 Rpm CEL and abs light is on I had my mechanic scan it and it only says front left abs not working ... So am wondering if that is causing limp mode
First what does the check engine light say? Second it’s possible but not likely if just one is out then the others should be able to keep it from going into limp mode unless that vechile was designed to go in limp mode if just one sensor was out. More important questions to ask, before you had the transmission changed did it work properly? Did you do the swap or did you have someone do it? Check the check engine light first that may have the reason you have the loss of power.
@@JunkyardJunkie both of them interconnected I have scan the car ... The codes are P0500 that's the only code because the abs sensor on the right wheel had snap when it was being work on
@@skyfrass3033 I have same problem with my car ,do you sorted it
@@ionrevenco5310 not yet ... Am still waiting on my abs sensor I ordered it ...I might get it this week
@@ionrevenco5310 what type of car you have and what are your symptoms tell me let me see if it's the same as mines
Thanks 🙏
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Please do one like this on a jaguar. If you need a to work on let me know. I have a jaguar
Haha that would make a good video! May have to take you up on that. Thanks for watching!
Lovely Birds Songs 🐦🕊️ Birds of a feadher flocks togeather. Have to find a good Garage, it is not a Simple Job. We are on a Buget.£€$.
Best of luck. If you were around me I’d help you out. Thanks for watching!
My charger is doing the same thing can you help me
Sorry for late response but start with the wheel speed sensors I would check them out and make sure they are working. If you have a scan tool that can read abs codes that’s usually the easiest way to get good direction. Thanks for watching!
Dang 157k My CX-7 Has Almost 270k Dead Serious And It Hasent Gave Me Any Major Problems For The 7 years I’ve owned it.
I think there amazing, other than using friction washer on crank and camshafts. But, it’s a good running reliable car. Just like with anything though, if the owner doesn’t take care of it, it will tear up.
Just subscribed. Liking the content.
Thanks for subscribing!
I have a 2005 navigator with the same lights on dash with car and squiggly lines my truck is also in NO CRANK NO START MODE I read that anything off with the ABS on this truck can cause limp mode every shop I called says it's impossible for wheel speed sensors to cause LIMP MODE I i'm literally watching your video prove their idiots ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR ME my truck will start bypassing the starter solenoid and the LIMP MODE ! persists. they asked iwhen have I had a tune up? my coils and plugs are less than 6,000 miles old
Sorry to hear that. A lot of them want you to bring it in so they can rack up charges. Ok so to start simple I would recommended fixing the no crank no start. The first question is have you checked your relays? to be more specific check 203 and 01. Also did the limp mode start after the no crank no start?
@@JunkyardJunkie the limp mode happened first and when I came out Walmart it's been NO CRANK NO START! since then I can start it by a button someone rigged up long as the key is in on position truck is sitting at teansmission shop and they'll look at it Monday to see why tranny aint talking with PCM it seem like the tire sensors should fix it then ill be stuck with using that button to crank it. Which I'll have to deal with im with you I rather get the NO CRANK NO START handled first. I missed part if your question I haven't checked any relays ir fuses because I can only use one arm and the fuse bbox happen to be on my right side its damn impossible for me to check em I surmise that's the first thing theyll check I told the first dummy to check my PCM and ABS relays he said that they wouldn't have anything to do with it which is crazy considering he told me to just buy a new flashed PCM.
I’m sorry to hear you can only use one arm. You seem very logical because your right why would you be sold a pcm without checking something as simple as the relay for pcm which is number 203 as I said above. I know this has been the fix for the no start no crank on quite a few like yours. For the limp mode I always check the wheel speed sensors first if you pick up a scan tool with abs functionality you can check them out yourself that way no one will try to rip you off. Do you have any check engine codes did they say there was any transmission codes? Let me know what they find. Good luck!
2008MAZDA cx9 doing the same thing and the battery drained ...what could it be if the battery is charged it won't do it
Can you explain a little more. So when you first start your car if your battery is low the traction control and abs come on? But then once the alternator charges it up a little bit the lights go out?
@@JunkyardJunkie my cx9 does the same thing on the video but it s draining the battery or battery not being charged ???
@@JunkyardJunkie so if the battery is or a low charge even if the alternator is good a bad battery will make car out limp mode
@@edwardbarrera5540 any fix? having exact same issue
Well done.
Thank you, glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
My speedo works, car isn't in limp mode drives perfectly fine. But my ABS, VDC, AWD and Traction control lights are on. I had a mechanic change the wheel bearings on the front. So I'm thinking he damaged my wheel speed sensors.
I’m sorry to hear that. But, ya to put it short I believe you are correct especially if it appeared after his work. Your speedo still works and not in limp mode would be because he probably only damaged one of the sides (as long as one sides is still working it has the data to give to the computer). If I was you I’d take it back to him and explain if this is the case it’s his obligation to fix it. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you for this response
very nice .thank you
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
My traction control comes on when I hit between 38 -40mph .. then I feel my brakes kick in ( I think it's the automatic brake system ) then as soon I lower the speed to like 15mph the traction control light stop beeping and the censor light turns off
What vehicle is it? Also how are road conditions? Any other things going on?
@@JunkyardJunkie it's a 2005 scion xb
What about road conditions when it happens? Does it always happen at 38-40mph or is there certain events that have to go with it? Figure that out and it should help to narrow down what to look for. Also using live data on a scan tool that can read your wheel speed sensors voltage, see if it drops. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank u kindly for the advice my friend :) road conditions are good . No rain or anything on the roads .. It only does it when I reach about 38-40 mph .. I hope it isn't anything major .. Cross your fingers for my dudes :)
Keep me updated buddy! Hope it’s a easy fix.
My 1998 Lincoln town car Trac active light comes on after a minute of driving it and then it making it hard to accelerate. The Trac active light comes on and goes off comes on goes off keep repeating itself and everytime it causes it to not accelerate causing me to pull over. I replace my air rising shocks for the rear because one of the shocks was losing air causing the rear to rise and the drop. But after I replace them that's when the issue started I have went to numerous mechanic they can't figure it out I really need your help.
Ok so a few things I need to ask. Did you or someone else replace the shocks? When whoever did it, did they damage the wheel speed sensor? Up next has anyone pulled the abs codes from the car? Also do you have access to a good scan tool that can read abs live data PIDS? Also can you drive for a certain amount of time before it starts turning on and off? Where I would start is making sure all the wheel speed sensors are good and none of them got damaged in the line creating a short to ground. But getting more data from a scan tool should also show you a lot too. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I changed my driver side air rise shock because I had or thought it had a hole in it but there was air coming out of it. I didn't start doing it until I change a tire.
the video helped thanks
Sneek c I’m glad it helped!
So, something really weird, my mom’s Buick Lacrosse CXL 2009 has a ABS/Traction control light that will come on occasionally but it wont stay on, and neither of my scan tools read anything on the car. My 2 scan tools are a Bluedriver and a Bosch scan tool (the one that comes with the older vehicle adaptors and a OBD2 adapter). I replaced the wheel hub because the TPMS looked a bit beat up but it didn’t fix it. I suspect that it’s a wiring issue but I don’t see any obvious issues with the wiring, no pinching no cut wires no damaged plugs, etc. i have not cut the plastic wire harness to look inside all the wiring. There’s also a odd knocking noise under the car when i’m in drive but you can only hear it at low speeds. I suspect that this is the ball joint or control arm, either way they are all one assembly so i’m going to replace them.
Ya it sounds like it could be a wiring issue. But, if it’s not causing trouble you can find it in time or as it gets worse it’ll be easier to pin point. Those are always the worst. If your hearing a knocking/clunking sound then your probably right but I definitely suggest verifying it. take a quick look at the ball joints and control arm bushings. Also you can have someone rock it back and forth while in park and you’ll probably be able to hear where it’s coming from easier. best of luck! Thanks for watching!
Excellent 👏👏👏👏👏
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you, I appreciate it!
It's a recall on tailight
Oh ya? I didn’t see that.
Generic. On the 2010 & some other year Jeep Patriots, the wheel hub usually is so rusty that they aren't allowing the signal to reach the sped sensor. On Jeeps the speed sensor cable-ends were all black for my 2010 anyways. And removing a rear wheel hub assembly on these vehicles are terrible. All the Jeep Lines made from 2005 up to 2013 were not made to last at all in the Rust-Belt States...
I opted out of driving newer Jeeps and am sticking with my 93 Cherokee. Made before OBD2 came out but it only has around a total of 10 fault codes....
I can defiantly say I’m glad not to have to work in the rust belt haha. But, I do prefer vehicles 96 and newer with the obd2 system it’s so easy to go through live data and diagnose problems quickly. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I hear ya there. I am looking for a 96 or 97 because my wife said she'd love to be driving another XJ. I was so glad to hear her say that to me...
my Z been in limp mode over a year..new ECU, all new sensors..cats cut.. hate this fucking car and nobody can fix this shit. cant go over 2500RPM
It’s defiantly not fun. If you have a good scan tool you can usually talk to the modules and see what you need. Or sometimes you have to just bite the bullet and let someone else diagnose it for you. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie been scanned 13x camshaft bank 1. And has been replaced 4x
After hitting 20km/h my car goes into limp mode
I would check the wheel speed sensors first. Thanks for watching!
Birds show up on the closed caption as " singing"
Haha that’s funny. I’ve bought a better mic since then, maybe that’ll help the back ground noise. Thanks for watching!
Limp Mode = Erectile dysfunction ....
😂😂 both defiantly equal a bad day. Thanks for watching!
Ssooo,what if I just remove them ALL...will the problem go AWAY 🤦♂️?
I assume you’re being sarcastic but I’ll answer you anyways. No, the problem in this is the computer isn’t detecting the wheel speed. So, removing more sensors wouldn’t help the problem it would only make it worse in terms of time to fix. Thanks for watching!
Nope.not at ALL sir,not sarcastic,just a guy asking a sincere question ⁉️
I assume this is you calling me stupid but i admit I'm no mechanic,but having some issues ATM and looking for quick and cheap fixes as im on a budget
I apologize the way your wrote it seemed like sarcasm. If your looking for a way to fix it cheap have you got a scan tool that can read your abs? If not you can always take it to a shop and ask them to just do a scan but you’ll do the work. That’s the best way to save money usually. Hope this helps if you have questions I’ll do my best to answer.
@@JunkyardJunkie absolutely,thank you,I'm trying my hardest to gain ALL the tools and knowledge but yet to have my own scanner,next up though 🤷🏼♂️
What's sad is that I feel like I done it to the sensor MYSELF.
Would some poorly repaired wiring cause this issue?
I fractured the wiring while doing work on it,and feel this could be it🤷🏼♂️is this possible?
ALSO,if I remove ALL if the stuff in regards to the abs would this fix it back to normal,like my 4x4 work and such?
Sounds bad but,I don't know if i need abs🤷🏼♂️
Hey no worries you will acquire all the tools you need over time. To be honest with you other than a good scanner you can do 90% of all jobs with a basic set from harbor freight. Other tools like the electric ratchet, impact gun and other things only speed up the process and makes it a easier job. but, anyone can do it with basic tools.
Don’t feel bad if your broke a wire yourself. all the best make rookie mistakes from time to time. If they say they don’t then their lying haha. I actually accidentally broke a speed sensor the other day. But anyways, yes if you broke the wire to the speed sensor then try to fix it yourself, there’s a good chance you may need to buy a new one. Honestly I would most vehicles have really cheap after market parts so most likely you’d be spending around 20$ for a sensor give or take.
So now to your final questions. Do you need abs? No early cars didn’t have them they do improve safety by stopping your car from looking up and sliding further than if it didn’t. But you can still stop just fine. But, just taking everything off isn’t going to get you anywhere. Unfortunately the computer will not allow this it uses the abs sensors (wheel speed sensors) to detect the speed of your wheels which is why it will put you in limp mode to protect you from damaging your vehicle. So if you remove all of it the computer will still look for it. So really the best course of action is to fix it.
I hope this helps!
My traction control light comes on and my car starts accelerating slow then makes noise when I’m driving
What noises are happening? Do you have a video of it happening?
louder music !!!
Haha what? You don’t like the intro?
too much noise....couldn't watch anymore. can't hear you.
I’m sorry this was one of my earlier videos. I didn’t have a good mic. I’ve upgraded since then. But there’s only background noise when I drive which is a very small section. I hope you find what your looking for. Have a great day!
@@JunkyardJunkie no worries. and i'm still looking for a solution as i don't have faith in the mechanic i went to who still can't figure out what it is. i paid him $160 already and he told me to come back this week and he'll try to decide if it's a wheel bearing or electrical, that the cost could be $1000. whaaat? it seems that his shop doesn't have all the tools.
Ya that’s ridiculous. What is the year, make, and model of your car? What lights are on the dash? And are you in limp mode? What are your symptoms etc