Wow. You need to make every how to video for general car fixes. Clear, concise, to the point information without the unnecessary jokes, ridiculous intros and drawn out blow hard egotism. Good job! This video fixed my problem!
After another look I realized it’s my AWD, not my ABS light with traction control(the two wavy skid marks) and check engine light that came on. I hit a deer Halloween front right corner the plastic shroud in wheel well is ripped out, I noticed last night that the wheel speed sensor was still wired but the clip that holds it to the control arm? pulled off but I don’t feel abrasion on harness. Same on driver side. Haven’t pulled wheels yet. Also, and this seems bizarre to me, it started running rough same time yesterday. Plugged it in and it read #3 cylinder misfire, wheel speed sensor and one other I forgot what it was. Hit a deer same corner last year and few months laterI had to replace a coil that was in back of engine so a lot of labor cost so they replaced all 3 since it was tore apart. Wondering where #3 is front or back. It was running very similar at the time. Had all body work done , and just had to do it all over again. No insurance this time. F’d up, I know. Living in State Forests in Minnesota 2 1/2 years now. It’s a 2013 Toyota Venza.
@@jamesholmberg3158 Bit of bad luck eh? See if you can locate the cylinder firing order diagram for that model. Might require a bit of investigative work but they illustrate which cylinder is which, like this for example: www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/es350-2007-2012/188347d1286544253-ignition-coil-malfunction-misfire-in-all-6-cylinders-cylindernum.jpg
The traction lights in my experience are most common for the abs wheel speed sensors but the stabilitrac is usually the steering angle/wheel position sensor failing.
Another video actually says that it is the Steering Wheel position sensor and another one just said its the brake pedal position switch like all these fuggin backyard mechanics have a different story its annoying af
@@djscottymaxxthis is what bothers me the most, I don’t expect these electronic junks to run forever but at least guide me to the problem with the right error code 😂 this stabilitrak crap is so annoying.
I have prius 2013. Recently developed some auto abs activation issue while turning left or right. Got checked by few mechanics but none of them looked at this place. Now after watching this video i have figured out the problem and saved money. Thanks brother.
Thanks for heading me in the right direction. Had my tires rotated on my 09 silverado at a well known and well used tire dealer today. When done, all my ABS, traction control and stabilitrac lights were on. Got it home and watched your video. Ultimately found they some how cut the wheel speed sensor wire on the left front. Was able to splice until I can get a new sensor/wire and put it on. Thanks for your help!
Sometimes you just need to be pointed in the right direction and you ask yourself similar questions like you did, "what if the mech cut my wire". Great job!
I like the thorough inspection of each side. Noticing and zooming in on the wires being eroded due to pulling and rubbing while turning etc. Nice job. I would of expected once you made the decision to get electrical tape and band aid those wires, you would have,- 1) Turned off ignition. 2) Disconnect battery 3)Dried off and possibly removed some of the worn, unsticky tape. 3) Proceed to wrap damaged areas with fresh electrical tape. *HOWEVER, THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO SHOWING EXAMPLES OF DIAGNOSING AND VISUALS ON INSPECTING. "Got a LIKE from me Sir" Thank you
So if wires were corroded . This is super temporary. You can't really fix with tape I am a electrician. I never ever fix wire I replace them . By law . Wire is wire .
One of the best videos on diagnosis. I subscribed and look forward to more. There's so many out there thatare confusing and some are hardly understandable. 5 Stars!
Thanks! My ABS & "service stabilitrak" lights were both on in my 2012 Acadia. Did some googling and found your video. Showed my husband when he got home & the 1st tire he took off, there it was. Lumex? covering on wire had a big gouge in it. Replaced and all warning lights are off!
Hi Chris, Thank you so much for this video. I took my 2000 Chevy Impala to a GM dealer and was told it would cost S700 to replace the wiring harness for the ABS and the Traction lights to turn off. Glad I did not have them perform that service after watching your diagnosis.
I jacked the car up 2003 lesabre on the driver side guess what the wiring coming out of the harness on the lower into the hub totally missing I’m hoping I can replace that sensor and it’ll work. I’m not sure about what’s going on the other end. Guess will clean that connection And hope for the best. On the passenger side it looks OK all looks good. I’ll disassemble those connections in clean them. Hopefully I can get my traction off light and ABS lights to go and the service stability system also to go off. Thanks so much Cc for the house to!! 👍👍
Seems like this is major issue with many Chevys. I had a 16 Malibu that for some reason the dealership could never fix. They just let replacing the OEM. I test drove a 17Implala today, as soon as I hit the highway, the Stability tracker light came on. I have PTSD at this point seriously scary issue to deal with.
Yes I agree. Chevy sedans are awful. I’ll never buy one ever again. My torque sensor went out which is near impossible to fix. Then now I have abs light traction control and brake light on.
Had exactly all 3 of these messages/lights come on in my 2011 Impala just tonight. I'm glad you documented this, as other videos or mechanics might have suggested something else entirely.
Heh, I guess oil changes are perfectly good loss-leaders for mechanics these days and they don't want to be charging $20 to put a piece of electrical tape on a bad piece of wire. Still, if they don't have the time for that, somebody's gotta talk about it, else we're all into costly repairs we don't necessarily need (yet). Cheers.
@@babberdydabberdy3551 I did recently in fact. As it turns out it was my rack and pinion leaking power steering fluid. If your car is groaning when you turn the wheel at all, that might be it.
It's funny, the making of this video was a complete accident. I had no premeditated plans to do it. Just occurred to me at the last minute to document what I was doing anyway. I guess I made the right choice! Thank you.
I’m watching this video in Houston in August. That snow looks nice. Of course I would be complaining that I was too cold if there was snow on the ground.
I'm currently going through the TCS light issue myself, it was not the brake switch so next step is to see if this video can help me figure this out, thanks for showing it.
I am having this issue w my 03 Mustang right now. My other half is a certified mechanic, but couldn't figure it out. Imagine his surprise when I ask him to lift the car and show him what I just learned hahahaha. Thank you so much for this.
Nice job on talking about this type of problem. However, you don't have any video of HOW you taped up the individual wires or the bundle, how you got access to these individual lines, how you used the contact spray / cleaner and THAT'S a big piece of the puzzle. Otherwise, this is just a series of photos of BEFORE and AFTER. Check out videos from other very very popular auto mechanics / repair TH-camrs (like Chris Fix or Scotty K or many others that actually shows HOW they do the repair AND NOT just the Before and After pictures). But this YT video definitely helps in solving ABS problems (like what I have with a GMC truck) in going PART of the way to DIY fix them. Keep improving. Good work regardless.
Yep, I have very amateurish videographer skills. I think a simple tripod would fix a lot of my problems but most of the time I'm half way through a repair before I start thinking about the YT video. I'll work on it.
Gosh thanks so much for this great video! My mechanic wants to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing for $500 bucks. I have a 2012 Buick Regal and I’ve recently had several things done on it for $1,600. A good friend said to take it to someone else for a second opinion. Maybe I only need a new sensor? If I need a new wheel bearing that’s fine too but I’d hate to spend the $500 unnecessarily. It only has 69K miles and it’s a really nice car. I’ve had it since it was a year old and hey its paid for! Thank you again you’ve given me a lot of very helpful information. 😀💗
Happy to help. Even if the wire is fine and the bearing does need to be replaced, you can reduce your cost by buying the bearing yourself and bringing it in to the mechanic. They can tell you which wheel is the problem using their electronic scan tool.
Thank you again Chris! He told me it’s my rear passenger wheel that needs a new wheel bearing. I’m going to take it to another mechanic just to get a second opinion. It’s fine if that’s my problem but $500 bucks is a LOT to spend if it’s not necessary!! I really appreciate you taking the time to make and then post your video. It helps a lot of us out in a very big way!! 💗
Thanks CC: An excellent vid. Clearly explained and excellent photography. I won't be doing any of my own repairs on a 2014 VW Passat (56,000 miles) but have a very good idea for where mechanic should start to look (or prevent him going on an expensive wild goose chase!) ABS/ESC Stability, Tyre Pressure Monitoring, Light bends and Stop/Start all on full-alarm. These all draw their signals from the Wheel Speed Sensors, so if one or more WSS is not functioning correctly, all four of these feature will light up.
Nice! Man thank you so much for taking the time to explain this! My 2003 Impala has been driving me insane trying to figure out why the traction control light won't go off! I replaced both wire harnesses running to the bearings. But now I found the problem. Thank you!
Glad to hear it. It can be the bearing itself (where the wheel sensor is located) but at least those are accessible and easier to replace. It sucks when you have to replace a wire loom or try to figure out where it's got a flaw in it.
@@kiannagardner8238 well shortly after I posted my comment, the traction control light came on again. My scan tool showed all wheel bearings were working properly. So I disconnected the wire harness running to the abs module. I blew all the dirt off, and put dielectric grease on it, reconnected everything and the light hasn't come on since. But all this started when I got stuck in mud, I accelerated too quickly, and heard a weird noise coming from the front passenger side wheel bearing. The wire harness on the passenger side wrapped itself around the wheel bearing. So I had to rewire both front wheel bearings. I know this is a lot of confusing info, it's hard explaining what I had to do, I wish I could explain it better.
Thank you so much my man, it really worked on my Toyota wish 2014 model with a Valve Matic engine traction control light was on with the engine check llght. After removing the ABS, VSC and TCS sensor and cleaned it .....all the faults lights disappeared. Thanks bro you really no yr stuf.
I wiggled the wires by the connector for each wheel and made sure everything was connected. I was finally able to start my car back up. It wouldn’t start and I noticed for a brief moment a stabilitrak light came on but didn’t stay on and my steering was off and couldn’t power on. Crazy because I was about to call a tow truck to take it to a mechanic lol thank you
I had my 2007 mercury mountaineer worked on about a month ago replaced front passenger side wheel bearing hub assembly & just 3 days ago, abs sensor light came on. Still need to get the driver side bearing assembly replace and it’s still humming. Figured, bearing is going out also. Thanks for sharing this video👍
No problem. Yeah, when a problem occurs right after doing a repair in a related area it's a dead ringer that the repair may have instigated the issue. Sometimes the mechanic forgets to plug in the speed sensor harness or maybe they plug it in half-way or maybe they don't route the cable in a safe path where it won't get yanked on. Many possibilities. It's always good to have a look at the repair area first so you can potentially rule it out.
Need to replace mine on my 05 Scion thanks for the info it will be of great help to me getting rid of these lights,thank you Sir. Looks like snow on the ground , I now live in Florida but I'm from Illinois and I miss the cold weather seems as though it's always a 100 degrees here. Stay tough and get er done.
Check your brake fluid level and pad wear first. A simple brake job was all that I needed to fix this issue on my 2012 impala. Apparently abs/traction control lights are activated if fluid level is low.
That's a very good point. The braking system has to be within a certain "nominal range" in order to work properly (thus to perform traction specific functions properly) so if your caliper pistons are too far out or you don't have enough fluid, this is sometimes enough to disable the traction system even without a hard malfunction.
Fyi, I showed my mechanic homie, this video and he said that a better way to protect these wires is to replace the original deteriorated plastic tubing that protect the electrical wires and then wrap the new plastic tubing with electrical tape. Electrical tape, my mechanic said melts with heat. The plastic tubing is sold at the auto supply stores. Over all good depiction in this video, in my opinion.
A valid point. The electrical tape is a bit hack'ish but it's meant to be temporary... till you can figure out what you want to do about your car in the long term.
Thank you for an excellent video. My problem started on an extremely rough gravel road. It's intermittent. Message goes off for a while while driving, and may come back on after turning, or backing out of a parking space. I suspected a sensor. Will check further. Thanks again.
If I remember correctly, this is a common problem on some cars, where the cable may be to long. I believe I read this on the "Buick " forum. Ty so much for the video
When you turn its widening the distance from the sensor to the ring then when you straighten out it shortens the distance and the ecm can pickup the signal again
Good video, though quick tip. You shouldn't let your wheels spin while the vehicle is jacked up unless you jack it up from under the lower ball joint or other wheel suspension component. Spinning the wheel with the suspension at maximum travel can damage your half axles or even rip/slip off the rubber boots on the half shaft. Basically your vehicle never turns the wheel at maximum suspension travel, unless you regularly take your car off of sweet jumps, so doing so while jacked up just creates an unnatural condition that your car never operates in. With an older car that could be the difference between getting another 100k miles out of your front or rear axles or putting everything back together and finding out that your axle is now suddenly clicking and popping. Oh and turning the steering wheel while doing this is just all that much worse. cheers.
It never occurred to me to consider that but you're absolutely right. Of course, all things mechanical are a function of time so I got away with it over the minute or so I was doing this diagnostic but your advice is definitely worth following. Thanks!
I have the same problem, haven't had a check yet, my abs, traction, hill start and tyre pressure have all gone at the same time. I will update you when I'm done! I have a ford Cmax 2011 model.
I had a friend whose car would turn off in the rain... water bridges electrical gaps and causes them to short, basically depriving the car computer of a high enough voltage to read digital signals properly. Usually indicates a wire has lost its insulation somewhere and is shorting on a nearby wire when water wicks between the 2 wires.
I happen to know where the water is getting in. Does your car get water on the floor of the passenger compartment? And do you have a camaro5 account? Long story short, my car used to shut off in the rain, took me weeks to find the problem. There were actually two problems, water entering from the windshield cowl on the passenger side (the base of the windshield where the windshield meets the body of the car) and also a faulty fuel pump. Once I changed my fuel pump, the car never shut off again, it's been fine for years now. And once I put a little sealant on the seams at the bottom of thewindshield, no more water in the car.
@@liamkneeson8866 No imagine if your car was in a flood and someone sold it to you with a clean title. Now that would be terrible. Used to happen a lot after Katrina
Thank you bro! Someone ran into my car, traction light cane on. Took it for repairs, they didn't even fix it. I go over 60 mph it comes on, car starts to shake as well smh.... I have a new 2020 Malibu.
@@ChrisCamaro Right, I'm a subscriber as well. I hope you keep your Regal, As long as I keep mine. My next mode of transportation will b a Tennessee Walker, Lol. Text ya from jail, I'm standing my ground. Is it just me? Or has the big three ever built any vehicles that last longer than 90, 000 miles?
Well explained. Exposed wiring and connectors cannot stay young forever. As the joints get older, pharmacists sell expensive drugs. Nice to address the real problem
Thanks for the video, my parking brake broke and took that 1 of the sensors and I replaced it but I still have the lights on the - so now I'm gonna go around the vehicle and check the rest of the sensors, it's a 2008 Dodge Durango two wheel drive
Thank you , was having this issue with my Cadillac CTS4 which was also causing AWD to shut down, was only intermiitent and more often when cold or wheels snow packed .....was a cable issue......
Excellent video!!!👍 If there is a bad sensor wire on my truck that’s causing the skid light to flash and the chime sound… Will a bad sensor or sensor cable also cause the dashboard to have other multiple dashboard lights to light up like the Batt light, ABS light, all the dial controls to stop working for a few seconds then work again and the turn signals stop working??
I didn't see anything to where you have to go in and clear the faults,like you do for a check engine light,just doing the repair will get rid of the light on the dash.Thanks for the video!
As far as I am aware, the fault will not persist once the problem is corrected. Even before I addressed the issue in my car, every time I started it, the car would be fine with no lights. The ECU was assuming the system was ok until it faults out. You should be ok just to fix the ABS without resetting the lights.
Damn i learned something new , thanks , my car just intermittently started doing this , this evening again , i just had the tie rods replaced last week and perfect timing the same area damn near , impala 2013 lt
Sometimes these things are more than just coincidence. You do a repair in the wheel area or steering subsystem in your case, maybe the mechanic has to move the wires to get at something and when you get the car back the wires have been shifted and made vulnerable to moving parts or road debris or whatever. Happens more often than we realize.
@@ChrisCamaro yep i bet your right, because it never did this ever before i had my new tie rods replaced , i got my car back 2 hours prior to my first alert on my dash , and was thinking he maybe hit something and it created an error , i shut my car off and restarted it , then it has been fine , but i know it will happen again
I hate how the car has a "run like crap" mode that can be triggered by hundreds of potential codes. I know it's there to save the rest of the car but usually it's just a pain in the ass.
Tried everything. Put in a new throttle body one evening then did relearn process, next morning codes were gone. No more ABS or Stabilitrak or check engine light. Check your carbon deposit buildup.
I had a service advance trac going on and off for a while. When ford scanned the vehicle, it gave a wheel speed sensor code, but it actually turned out to be the toner ring had broken
Another thing this could be the sensor is dirty where it "reads" the movement of the wheel. On some cars you can get to the sensor enough to clean the road grime off and resolving the issue. This was the problem on my nephew's car this summer. Took ten minutes to figure out what was wrong, thirty seconds to clean it and three minutes to put the brakes and wheel back together.
It's an interesting hypothesis but if I'm not mistaken, the wheel speed sensors are magnetic encoders. In other words, electromagnetic waves can "see" through dirt and grime, since the dirt and grime is non-ferrous. What might have happened is the encoder might have shifted out of alignment... maybe it was too close or too far away to provide a good signal, and by cleaning it and putting it back, you actually reset its position. It's just another guess on my part but unless the encoders are optical or something else I'm not aware of, they should be more or less immune to dirt. Automotive applications often use magnetic for this reason.
My 2009 Chevy HHR 2LT has alarm ABS and Traction Control. The OBD scanner showed code C0045. Your video seems to be a great start to look at my problem
That's excellent that you have the code. That cuts your work down to 25% (less if you consider other things like the steering angle sensor, etc). Now you just need to trace that wire back and see if it's intact. If it is, you're likely looking at a hub (sensor) replacement.
Thanx Chris, like said below, best answer I ever heard. Had the Chevy service writer tell me they had to yank the steering wheel to replace a sensor???????
@@ChrisCamaro Chris in my case, the stabilitrak light only come on when the steering wheel is turned (left or right doesn't seem to matter) gotten to the point where I just change the dash display to vehicle mileage. On the up side, I have not noticed a change in handling. Your tip about the 15 sec reboot appears to be working ....... thanx again!
Good video however I did do the same thing you did only on my 2012 impala it was on the left side I taped re-taped each wire and the casing it ran good for about two weeks and then I end up the same problem again I ordered from Rock Auto, the “wire harness complete” it looks identical to the GM one for $6.50 that is going to be my weekend project because I was told once the wires break in the casing no matter if you tape it it’s still going to have a short just a slight change in voltage will make that traction control light come on again. GM Wanted $70 for the same wire harness and the total job if they would do it would be over $600! I did mine for $6.50!👍
You did it exactly as you should have. In hindsight it would have been better to include the permanent fix in the video as well but I guess the important thing is that, by virtue of the video and the supplementary comments, people are at least aware of the root cause(s), how you can quickly fix it to get by for a while, as you do your research and decide what to do and then how to fix it for good as cheap as possible, just like you did.
This happened on my 2018 silverado around winter. Only when i turned left, then progressively more constant. Disables cruise control. Replaced obviously faulty wheel speed sensor with ACDelco match. Both lights now on for eternity. Have not asked a dealership. When the bad wire was not making contact with the coil spring, everything was normal. When i replaced the parts the truck was shut off with the lights on and the wire making contact. I wonder if i just never gave it the opportunity to reset. Ive unplugged the battery before.
Hey man great video . I am a electrician Your taping method. Crappy tape . If you use rubber tape . And 3m yellow 88. As long as the metal strands of the wire were in good shape . That could be a permanent fix . If you were charging someone to do this . Not ok . If peeps reading want to do yourself . Would work .
Heh. I often do things sloppy. Mostly because I'm ok with the idea that it's merely a temporary fix. I'm sure you or someone else could have done a more professional job but I eventually did just get it repaired outright so I knew it was a short-term thing. I think the main takeaway is finding out where the failure point is. From there it's a matter of cost and time for the user.
It could happen at any time since flaky wiring will confuse the computer whenever you go over bumps or the suspension moves around, which can happen at any speed.
2004 Buick LeSabre Custom.. Same light issue. I’m on a budget, I’m not rich to afford professional repairs.. Driver side rear wheel AIR SHOCK was replaced and now I need to check. I don’t have a shop, or lift. Driver side rear wheel was stuck and I had to kick the wheel off. Where is THE HEATER CORE on the 2004 Buick LeSabre? I’m getting THERMOSTAT fail code after I replaced the thermostat and temp sensor. I got a basic OBD 2 scan tool.
Thanks for the great video.I have same problem in Caddillac escalade Esv 2016.In raining few lights are ON and the steering gets hard, ABS, Traction, etc. Do you think these are the same issues and fixed as you showed in the video?
Just curious what was the purpose of starting the vehicle and putting a vehicle in drive and having a wheel turn to pivot the wheel hubs left and right what was the point please explain !¿?
The idea is to examine the wheels'range of motion and to see how the wheel speed sensor's wire loom moves along with it. If there is something wrong with the way the wire loom is routed, you may see it visually as you turn the wheel.
My 2008 Saturn aura 3.5 V6 does a little bit before and after the message and chime it’s slightly rough with a loping of the light misfiring feel but no check engine light until I drive a few feet
Would flat spots on a tire causing a mild shake around 45 mph cause these sensors to trip the stabilitrak? I drove about 6 miles fine and then bam I got hit with this issue and my engine reduced power and acted like it was misfiring.
In my case, not only turning but going over uneven road or gravel did cause the problem so I would think yes. Any sort of imbalance in your drivetrain will have a resonant frequency which will amplify the effect at a certain speed. If 45 is your car's resonant frequency it might be enough to trip the ABS, if there's a wiring/sensor problem already.
I just had stabitrack light and check engine light come on in my 2016 Chevy Impala and all I did was put better gas in there I ran three tanks of the E85 in a row and didn't have enough octane to boost the fuel injectors which resulted in engine power reduced, eve, the e88 gas works good but they can keep the e85 fuel for their cars
I have that problem on a 2012 Toyota Camry and I took it to the mechanic and told me it was an electrical problem and they fix it and I took the car for a long drive and the lights came back on Abs break and tire and I paid 300 dollars to get it fix and I’m piss now
Most hardware stores sell something equivalent to "electrical contact spray", which is a type of solvent the that gets rid of the corrosion that typically forms on conductive materials like copper. It has lubricating qualities too and if you spray some of that in the connector and work the connector on and off half a dozen times, you'll have a good solid connection. Then if you still have issues you'll know it's somewhere else. You can use a multimeter in continuity mode to check both conductors to see if they are shorting as well.
Great vid and Info Chris. I have a 2007 chevy malibu and every time I do a complete stop for a min, the Traction turns on. As soon as I start driving it goes out but it makes a hard know every time it turns off. Would you know whats wrong with it?
If it happens during stops and you're not losing traction, it's probably the same as what I'm describing in the video, where the suspension is flexing as the car shifts its weight around and as the suspension components move and flex, the ABS cable moves with it. If there's any flaw in the cable, it's going to open and close the circuit with this flexing motion. The problem would therefore most likely be in the part of the cable loom closes to the moving suspension components.
Hello I have a 2015 Silverado and I’ve been having intermittent abs and traction control lights going on my dash. They haven’t stayed on but today they did and now my truck won’t crank, click or start. For this I think it’s wiring issue, if I hit bumps the right way a light will come on the dash and disappear. Scanned and it says there’s an issue with the left front wheel hub. Could a bad sensor cause a vehicle not to start ? Any help would be great. Thanks.
Ive found that it is usually a sloppy wheel bearing , thats the first thing you check , before you take the wheel off check for play in it by shaking the outside of the wheel ..you got the rest of right though , if gm asked me nicely , i would teach them how to make there trucks better and built cheaper , i dont got no interist in cars though
Thanks for adding to the solution. Is it the vibration caused by slop in the bearing which throws off the sensor or something else? Just curious how this leads to failure of the system.
Yeah , its a one piece unit non greasable , im wondering if it looses lubrication somewhere through its life ,ive seen people attempt to grease them through the abs sensor hole , but i dont think that gets the grease in the right spot on some wheel bearings ..
My traction control light will randomly start flashing ( 95* outside) and auto engaging the brakes. Super dangerous while driving. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on for it to stop doing that. I will check it out on my car thanks!
Wow. You need to make every how to video for general car fixes. Clear, concise, to the point information without the unnecessary jokes, ridiculous intros and drawn out blow hard egotism. Good job! This video fixed my problem!
Just want to thank you for taking the time to put this video together and uploading it. If I fix it myself, I'll come back and thank you again.
Time is valuable so if I can save some for you then it was worth the effort!
After another look I realized it’s my AWD, not my ABS light with traction control(the two wavy skid marks) and check engine light that came on. I hit a deer Halloween front right corner the plastic shroud in wheel well is ripped out, I noticed last night that the wheel speed sensor was still wired but the clip that holds it to the control arm? pulled off but I don’t feel abrasion on harness. Same on driver side. Haven’t pulled wheels yet. Also, and this seems bizarre to me, it started running rough same time yesterday. Plugged it in and it read #3 cylinder misfire, wheel speed sensor and one other I forgot what it was. Hit a deer same corner last year and few months laterI had to replace a coil that was in back of engine so a lot of labor cost so they replaced all 3 since it was tore apart. Wondering where #3 is front or back. It was running very similar at the time. Had all body work done , and just had to do it all over again. No insurance this time. F’d up, I know. Living in State Forests in Minnesota 2 1/2 years now. It’s a 2013 Toyota Venza.
@@jamesholmberg3158 Bit of bad luck eh? See if you can locate the cylinder firing order diagram for that model. Might require a bit of investigative work but they illustrate which cylinder is which, like this for example: www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/es350-2007-2012/188347d1286544253-ignition-coil-malfunction-misfire-in-all-6-cylinders-cylindernum.jpg
The traction lights in my experience are most common for the abs wheel speed sensors but the stabilitrac is usually the steering angle/wheel position sensor failing.
Another video actually says that it is the Steering Wheel position sensor and another one just said its the brake pedal position switch like all these fuggin backyard mechanics have a different story its annoying af
@@djscottymaxxthis is what bothers me the most, I don’t expect these electronic junks to run forever but at least guide me to the problem with the right error code 😂 this stabilitrak crap is so annoying.
Good shit my guy , 20+ year master mechanic , been building cars since was knee high to a Flys eye.. simple smooth direct delivery my friend.
I have prius 2013. Recently developed some auto abs activation issue while turning left or right. Got checked by few mechanics but none of them looked at this place. Now after watching this video i have figured out the problem and saved money.
Thanks brother.
There's $200 worth of beer and cigars you didn't have before eh?
Thanks for heading me in the right direction. Had my tires rotated on my 09 silverado at a well known and well used tire dealer today. When done, all my ABS, traction control and stabilitrac lights were on. Got it home and watched your video. Ultimately found they some how cut the wheel speed sensor wire on the left front. Was able to splice until I can get a new sensor/wire and put it on. Thanks for your help!
Sometimes you just need to be pointed in the right direction and you ask yourself similar questions like you did, "what if the mech cut my wire". Great job!
They cut it? Doesnt that mean they're at fault?
@@ndo533 Right, ummm no, we just don't know how that could have happened. ( They were MAYBE) Hoping for more of your business.
Man, Karma take me away
Coincidence? I just had my tires rotated at a well known shop and next day Stabilitrack light comes on.
I have a 09 silverado I been having issues the car is hesitant when I drive Trac control won't turn off
I like the thorough inspection of each side. Noticing and zooming in on the wires being eroded due to pulling and rubbing while turning etc. Nice job. I would of expected once you made the decision to get electrical tape and band aid those wires, you would have,- 1) Turned off ignition. 2) Disconnect battery 3)Dried off and possibly removed some of the worn, unsticky tape. 3) Proceed to wrap damaged areas with fresh electrical tape. *HOWEVER, THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO SHOWING EXAMPLES OF DIAGNOSING AND VISUALS ON INSPECTING. "Got a LIKE from me Sir" Thank you
I appreciate any feedback that I can use to make my next videos better.
So if wires were corroded . This is super temporary. You can't really fix with tape
I am a electrician. I never ever fix wire I replace them . By law . Wire is wire .
@@waynedickens4031and wire breaks
One of the best videos on diagnosis. I subscribed and look forward to more. There's so many out there thatare confusing and some are hardly understandable. 5 Stars!
Thanks! My ABS & "service stabilitrak" lights were both on in my 2012 Acadia. Did some googling and found your video. Showed my husband when he got home & the 1st tire he took off, there it was. Lumex? covering on wire had a big gouge in it. Replaced and all warning lights are off!
That's great news! Happy to be of help.
Hi Chris, Thank you so much for this video. I took my 2000 Chevy Impala to a GM dealer and was told it would cost S700 to replace the wiring harness for the ABS and the Traction lights to turn off. Glad I did not have them perform that service after watching your diagnosis.
700 bucks for a wiring harness??? They really are "stealerships" aren't they
@@ChrisCamaro holy shit that's one of the biggest rip offs I've ever heard of
I jacked the car up 2003 lesabre on the driver side guess what the wiring coming out of the harness on the lower into the hub totally missing I’m hoping I can replace that sensor and it’ll work. I’m not sure about what’s going on the other end. Guess will clean that connection And hope for the best. On the passenger side it looks OK all looks good. I’ll disassemble those connections in clean them. Hopefully I can get my traction off light and ABS lights to go and the service stability system also to go off. Thanks so much Cc for the house to!! 👍👍
Bro you saved my life 😂 my dad tried to tell me it was the gear box thanks man
Of course it’s always snowing and cold when problems happen.
😂😂😂😂
literallyyyyy
Never fails!!!
No its not. You need fact checked
Mine started going crazy when it started raining, like bro really
Forget shade tree! In the driveway with snow on the ground! Great job, Chris.
What I can with what I got ;)
the audio is very clear and the explanation is easy to understand thank you very much for the information
Glad it was helpful!
Seems like this is major issue with many Chevys. I had a 16 Malibu that for some reason the dealership could never fix. They just let replacing the OEM. I test drove a 17Implala today, as soon as I hit the highway, the Stability tracker light came on. I have PTSD at this point seriously scary issue to deal with.
Yes I agree. Chevy sedans are awful. I’ll never buy one ever again. My torque sensor went out which is near impossible to fix. Then now I have abs light traction control and brake light on.
Along with checking the speed Sensors. Check the wheel bearings on all 4 tires. Had a faulty one on mine. Replaced it and the lights went away.
Had exactly all 3 of these messages/lights come on in my 2011 Impala just tonight. I'm glad you documented this, as other videos or mechanics might have suggested something else entirely.
Heh, I guess oil changes are perfectly good loss-leaders for mechanics these days and they don't want to be charging $20 to put a piece of electrical tape on a bad piece of wire. Still, if they don't have the time for that, somebody's gotta talk about it, else we're all into costly repairs we don't necessarily need (yet). Cheers.
So did you fix the issue? I have an 11 impala with the exact same lights on
@@babberdydabberdy3551 I did recently in fact. As it turns out it was my rack and pinion leaking power steering fluid. If your car is groaning when you turn the wheel at all, that might be it.
@@Conqueered Oohh dang nah mines not doing that. I get a grinding noise when it’s shifting gears sometimes
Ty so much! Out of all the videos this is the ONLY ONE THAT HAS HELPED ME AND ANSWERED ALL MY QUESTIONS! TY again
It's funny, the making of this video was a complete accident. I had no premeditated plans to do it. Just occurred to me at the last minute to document what I was doing anyway. I guess I made the right choice! Thank you.
Me too. Diagnosed my problem spot on!.
gOOD MAN cHRIS, TY.
I’m watching this video in Houston in August. That snow looks nice. Of course I would be complaining that I was too cold if there was snow on the ground.
I'm currently going through the TCS light issue myself, it was not the brake switch so next step is to see if this video can help me figure this out, thanks for showing it.
Good luck!
I am having this issue w my 03 Mustang right now. My other half is a certified mechanic, but couldn't figure it out. Imagine his surprise when I ask him to lift the car and show him what I just learned hahahaha. Thank you so much for this.
Nice job on talking about this type of problem. However, you don't have any video of HOW you taped up the individual wires or the bundle, how you got access to these individual lines, how you used the contact spray / cleaner and THAT'S a big piece of the puzzle. Otherwise, this is just a series of photos of BEFORE and AFTER. Check out videos from other very very popular auto mechanics / repair TH-camrs (like Chris Fix or Scotty K or many others that actually shows HOW they do the repair AND NOT just the Before and After pictures). But this YT video definitely helps in solving ABS problems (like what I have with a GMC truck) in going PART of the way to DIY fix them. Keep improving. Good work regardless.
Yep, I have very amateurish videographer skills. I think a simple tripod would fix a lot of my problems but most of the time I'm half way through a repair before I start thinking about the YT video. I'll work on it.
I just started having this issue driving last night.My car was breaking on its own on the highway! Thank god far a warranty right!
Yeah warranty helps if you still have it.!
Gosh thanks so much for this great video! My mechanic wants to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing for $500 bucks. I have a 2012 Buick Regal and I’ve recently had several things done on it for $1,600. A good friend said to take it to someone else for a second opinion. Maybe I only need a new sensor? If I need a new wheel bearing that’s fine too but I’d hate to spend the $500 unnecessarily. It only has 69K miles and it’s a really nice car. I’ve had it since it was a year old and hey its paid for! Thank you again you’ve given me a lot of very helpful information. 😀💗
Happy to help. Even if the wire is fine and the bearing does need to be replaced, you can reduce your cost by buying the bearing yourself and bringing it in to the mechanic. They can tell you which wheel is the problem using their electronic scan tool.
Thank you again Chris! He told me it’s my rear passenger wheel that needs a new wheel bearing. I’m going to take it to another mechanic just to get a second opinion. It’s fine if that’s my problem but $500 bucks is a LOT to spend if it’s not necessary!! I really appreciate you taking the time to make and then post your video. It helps a lot of us out in a very big way!! 💗
Thanks CC: An excellent vid. Clearly explained and excellent photography. I won't be doing any of my own repairs on a 2014 VW Passat (56,000 miles) but have a very good idea for where mechanic should start to look (or prevent him going on an expensive wild goose chase!) ABS/ESC Stability, Tyre Pressure Monitoring, Light bends and Stop/Start all on full-alarm. These all draw their signals from the Wheel Speed Sensors, so if one or more WSS is not functioning correctly, all four of these feature will light up.
That's why I'm here. Not that I can fix it myself but that I am aware when I take this beautiful beast in on Monday. Thanx
Nice! Man thank you so much for taking the time to explain this! My 2003 Impala has been driving me insane trying to figure out why the traction control light won't go off! I replaced both wire harnesses running to the bearings. But now I found the problem. Thank you!
Glad to hear it. It can be the bearing itself (where the wheel sensor is located) but at least those are accessible and easier to replace. It sucks when you have to replace a wire loom or try to figure out where it's got a flaw in it.
Did your car have trouble with accelerating also when the light appeared?
@@kiannagardner8238 well shortly after I posted my comment, the traction control light came on again. My scan tool showed all wheel bearings were working properly. So I disconnected the wire harness running to the abs module. I blew all the dirt off, and put dielectric grease on it, reconnected everything and the light hasn't come on since. But all this started when I got stuck in mud, I accelerated too quickly, and heard a weird noise coming from the front passenger side wheel bearing. The wire harness on the passenger side wrapped itself around the wheel bearing. So I had to rewire both front wheel bearings. I know this is a lot of confusing info, it's hard explaining what I had to do, I wish I could explain it better.
How much $$$$ per wheel sensor? My car also doesnt pass smog due to oxygen sensors??? GM CARS
Thank you so much my man, it really worked on my Toyota wish 2014 model with a Valve Matic engine traction control light was on with the engine check llght. After removing the ABS, VSC and TCS sensor and cleaned it .....all the faults lights disappeared. Thanks bro you really no yr stuf.
I wiggled the wires by the connector for each wheel and made sure everything was connected. I was finally able to start my car back up. It wouldn’t start and I noticed for a brief moment a stabilitrak light came on but didn’t stay on and my steering was off and couldn’t power on. Crazy because I was about to call a tow truck to take it to a mechanic lol thank you
Glad things worked out in the end!
I had my 2007 mercury mountaineer worked on about a month ago replaced front passenger side wheel bearing hub assembly & just 3 days ago, abs sensor light came on. Still need to get the driver side bearing assembly replace and it’s still humming. Figured, bearing is going out also. Thanks for sharing this video👍
No problem. Yeah, when a problem occurs right after doing a repair in a related area it's a dead ringer that the repair may have instigated the issue. Sometimes the mechanic forgets to plug in the speed sensor harness or maybe they plug it in half-way or maybe they don't route the cable in a safe path where it won't get yanked on. Many possibilities. It's always good to have a look at the repair area first so you can potentially rule it out.
@@ChrisCamaro sounds good brother 👍 have a great weekends and thank you🙏
The best troubleshoot I've gotten so far, I'll check it out.
I have an 09 buick lucerne and this just started happening to me while making left hand turn. I will keep you posted after I check it out. Thank you.
Please do!
Wya
Any update ?
Need to replace mine on my 05 Scion thanks for the info it will be of great help to me getting rid of these lights,thank you Sir. Looks like snow on the ground , I now live in Florida but I'm from Illinois and I miss the cold weather seems as though it's always a 100 degrees here. Stay tough and get er done.
Damn straight :D
Check your brake fluid level and pad wear first. A simple brake job was all that I needed to fix this issue on my 2012 impala. Apparently abs/traction control lights are activated if fluid level is low.
That's a very good point. The braking system has to be within a certain "nominal range" in order to work properly (thus to perform traction specific functions properly) so if your caliper pistons are too far out or you don't have enough fluid, this is sometimes enough to disable the traction system even without a hard malfunction.
Nice job.
For the permanent fix you would want it to not come in contact with the lower control arm at all. Liked and subscribed.
Fyi, I showed my mechanic homie, this video and he said that a better way to protect these wires is to replace the original deteriorated plastic tubing that protect the electrical wires and then wrap the new plastic tubing with electrical tape. Electrical tape, my mechanic said melts with heat. The plastic tubing is sold at the auto supply stores. Over all good depiction in this video, in my opinion.
A valid point. The electrical tape is a bit hack'ish but it's meant to be temporary... till you can figure out what you want to do about your car in the long term.
Thank you for an excellent video. My problem started on an extremely rough gravel road. It's intermittent. Message goes off for a while while driving, and may come back on after turning, or backing out of a parking space. I suspected a sensor. Will check further. Thanks again.
My car did the same things. Come to find out my wires were broke from the wheel turning back and forth. Got caught and broke.
If I remember correctly, this is a common problem on some cars, where the cable may be to long. I believe I read this on the "Buick " forum. Ty so much for the video
any update, mines doing the same,
Replace the hub
When you turn its widening the distance from the sensor to the ring then when you straighten out it shortens the distance and the ecm can pickup the signal again
You're a natural at teaching. Great video.
Thanks! I'll try to leverage that talent as best I can in future videos
Good video, though quick tip. You shouldn't let your wheels spin while the vehicle is jacked up unless you jack it up from under the lower ball joint or other wheel suspension component. Spinning the wheel with the suspension at maximum travel can damage your half axles or even rip/slip off the rubber boots on the half shaft. Basically your vehicle never turns the wheel at maximum suspension travel, unless you regularly take your car off of sweet jumps, so doing so while jacked up just creates an unnatural condition that your car never operates in. With an older car that could be the difference between getting another 100k miles out of your front or rear axles or putting everything back together and finding out that your axle is now suddenly clicking and popping. Oh and turning the steering wheel while doing this is just all that much worse. cheers.
It never occurred to me to consider that but you're absolutely right. Of course, all things mechanical are a function of time so I got away with it over the minute or so I was doing this diagnostic but your advice is definitely worth following. Thanks!
@@ChrisCamaro you did good sir.
I have the same problem, haven't had a check yet, my abs, traction, hill start and tyre pressure have all gone at the same time. I will update you when I'm done! I have a ford Cmax 2011 model.
Update, I took both the front wheels off, no corrosion or problems with the wires, I still need to look at the back ones though.
My problem comes after a rainy day always ,ima check those sensors and connections props to your video bro and taking the time to do it😁👍
I had a friend whose car would turn off in the rain... water bridges electrical gaps and causes them to short, basically depriving the car computer of a high enough voltage to read digital signals properly. Usually indicates a wire has lost its insulation somewhere and is shorting on a nearby wire when water wicks between the 2 wires.
I happen to know where the water is getting in. Does your car get water on the floor of the passenger compartment? And do you have a camaro5 account? Long story short, my car used to shut off in the rain, took me weeks to find the problem. There were actually two problems, water entering from the windshield cowl on the passenger side (the base of the windshield where the windshield meets the body of the car) and also a faulty fuel pump. Once I changed my fuel pump, the car never shut off again, it's been fine for years now. And once I put a little sealant on the seams at the bottom of thewindshield, no more water in the car.
@@liamkneeson8866 No imagine if your car was in a flood and someone sold it to you with a clean title. Now that would be terrible. Used to happen a lot after Katrina
Thank you bro! Someone ran into my car, traction light cane on. Took it for repairs, they didn't even fix it. I go over 60 mph it comes on, car starts to shake as well smh.... I have a new 2020 Malibu.
Check the tire balancing, could be a bent rim. Rotate the tires to see if it still vibrates.
May also be a missing or broken motor or transmission mount, but low chance
Imbalanced tires will destroy the wheel sensors quickly
Very good vid Chris! Thank you SO much for taking the time and effort to post it. You just saved me a pile of money.
You have a new subscriber buddy.
It means a lot to me when my lessons learned reach others and help them avoid the toil I went through. Thanks a lot man.
@@ChrisCamaro Right, I'm a subscriber as well. I hope you keep your Regal, As long as I keep mine.
My next mode of transportation will b a Tennessee Walker, Lol.
Text ya from jail, I'm standing my ground.
Is it just me? Or has the big three ever built any vehicles that last longer than 90, 000 miles?
Well explained. Exposed wiring and connectors cannot stay young forever. As the joints get older, pharmacists sell expensive drugs. Nice to address the real problem
thank you for your time in showing this. you're a good soul
It's always nice to see people being helped.
Yes, Ty, hoping that's my problem
Hi, thanks for your help those lights drive crazy off and on.thanks again I will tray to fix it myself.Have a wonderful day.
Thanks for the video, my parking brake broke and took that 1 of the sensors and I replaced it but I still have the lights on the - so now I'm gonna go around the vehicle and check the rest of the sensors, it's a 2008 Dodge Durango two wheel drive
Good stuff. Just remember that 2wd and 4wd alike rely on all 4 wheel speed sensors for the TCS
Thank you for this video now I’m can check all the sensors on my wheels.
Excellent video - worked like a charm. THank you!!!!
Guess its a mechanic fix for me i was hoping it would b simpler vut good video content thanks it was helpful
My 2015 silverado just started doing this... thanks for this good video!
So did mine. Have you had a chance to try it out? If so, what was the outcome?
@@jaylinharvey5893 did your Silverado abs stabiletrack lights go off? Mines keeps coming on. ‘My 2015 Chevy Impala , thanks appreciate it
Excellent job explaining that sir. Well done.
I do try to be a good wordsmith :D
Thank you , was having this issue with my Cadillac CTS4 which was also causing AWD to shut down, was only intermiitent and more often when cold or wheels snow packed .....was a cable issue......
O.M.G. Thankyou for all this info. It teaches me alot about my vehicles functions.
Very Good Video! You Know Your Stuff & What You're Talking About. Very Informative! Thanks Again.
Excellent video!!!👍
If there is a bad sensor wire on my truck that’s causing the skid light to flash and the chime sound…
Will a bad sensor or sensor cable also cause the dashboard to have other multiple dashboard lights to light up like the Batt light, ABS light, all the dial controls to stop working for a few seconds then work again and the turn signals stop working??
No that sounds like more of an electrical connection problem in general. My MC does that actually. I'm looking into the wiring.
Thanks, Chris, decent video and well made I will try the method , and let you know.
I didn't see anything to where you have to go in and clear the faults,like you do for a check engine light,just doing the repair will get rid of the light on the dash.Thanks for the video!
As far as I am aware, the fault will not persist once the problem is corrected. Even before I addressed the issue in my car, every time I started it, the car would be fine with no lights. The ECU was assuming the system was ok until it faults out. You should be ok just to fix the ABS without resetting the lights.
Damn i learned something new , thanks , my car just intermittently started doing this , this evening again , i just had the tie rods replaced last week and perfect timing the same area damn near , impala 2013 lt
Sometimes these things are more than just coincidence. You do a repair in the wheel area or steering subsystem in your case, maybe the mechanic has to move the wires to get at something and when you get the car back the wires have been shifted and made vulnerable to moving parts or road debris or whatever. Happens more often than we realize.
@@ChrisCamaro yep i bet your right, because it never did this ever before i had my new tie rods replaced , i got my car back 2 hours prior to my first alert on my dash , and was thinking he maybe hit something and it created an error , i shut my car off and restarted it , then it has been fine , but i know it will happen again
Thanks so much bro. I'll check mine in the morning. I'm sure that's my problem.. i also have the engine reduced power on the dash
I hate how the car has a "run like crap" mode that can be triggered by hundreds of potential codes. I know it's there to save the rest of the car but usually it's just a pain in the ass.
I had the same problem I rewired a bad connection under the hood and it fixed
Tried everything. Put in a new throttle body one evening then did relearn process, next morning codes were gone. No more ABS or Stabilitrak or check engine light. Check your carbon deposit buildup.
I had a service advance trac going on and off for a while. When ford scanned the vehicle, it gave a wheel speed sensor code, but it actually turned out to be the toner ring had broken
Another thing this could be the sensor is dirty where it "reads" the movement of the wheel. On some cars you can get to the sensor enough to clean the road grime off and resolving the issue. This was the problem on my nephew's car this summer. Took ten minutes to figure out what was wrong, thirty seconds to clean it and three minutes to put the brakes and wheel back together.
It's an interesting hypothesis but if I'm not mistaken, the wheel speed sensors are magnetic encoders. In other words, electromagnetic waves can "see" through dirt and grime, since the dirt and grime is non-ferrous. What might have happened is the encoder might have shifted out of alignment... maybe it was too close or too far away to provide a good signal, and by cleaning it and putting it back, you actually reset its position. It's just another guess on my part but unless the encoders are optical or something else I'm not aware of, they should be more or less immune to dirt. Automotive applications often use magnetic for this reason.
My 2009 Chevy HHR 2LT has alarm ABS and Traction Control. The OBD scanner showed code C0045. Your video seems to be a great start to look at my problem
That's excellent that you have the code. That cuts your work down to 25% (less if you consider other things like the steering angle sensor, etc). Now you just need to trace that wire back and see if it's intact. If it is, you're likely looking at a hub (sensor) replacement.
Great vid. I’m noticing poor traction but no warning lights
Very clear, and detailed video thanks for sharing your knowledge
Glad it was helpful!
Thanx Chris, like said below, best answer I ever heard. Had the Chevy service writer tell me they had to yank the steering wheel to replace a sensor???????
I suspect it was the steering sensor they were referring to. This may be "a" mode of failure but not one I've personally experienced.
@@ChrisCamaro Chris in my case, the stabilitrak light only come on when the steering wheel is turned (left or right doesn't seem to matter) gotten to the point where I just change the dash display to vehicle mileage. On the up side, I have not noticed a change in handling. Your tip about the 15 sec reboot appears to be working ....... thanx again!
@@Monkmaster1969 Glad to be of service!
Great video! This just may save me
A lot of money 💰
And we could all use a little more of that, am I right?
Awesome video! Thanks bro. Great work!
Good video however I did do the same thing you did only on my 2012 impala it was on the left side I taped re-taped each wire and the casing it ran good for about two weeks and then I end up the same problem again I ordered from Rock Auto, the “wire harness complete” it looks identical to the GM one for $6.50 that is going to be my weekend project because I was told once the wires break in the casing no matter if you tape it it’s still going to have a short just a slight change in voltage will make that traction control light come on again. GM Wanted $70 for the same wire harness and the total job if they would do it would be over $600! I did mine for $6.50!👍
You did it exactly as you should have. In hindsight it would have been better to include the permanent fix in the video as well but I guess the important thing is that, by virtue of the video and the supplementary comments, people are at least aware of the root cause(s), how you can quickly fix it to get by for a while, as you do your research and decide what to do and then how to fix it for good as cheap as possible, just like you did.
Do you happen to have the part number for the harness? Although it will probably be different for my 08 G6.
This happened on my 2018 silverado around winter. Only when i turned left, then progressively more constant. Disables cruise control. Replaced obviously faulty wheel speed sensor with ACDelco match. Both lights now on for eternity. Have not asked a dealership. When the bad wire was not making contact with the coil spring, everything was normal. When i replaced the parts the truck was shut off with the lights on and the wire making contact. I wonder if i just never gave it the opportunity to reset. Ive unplugged the battery before.
New Subscriber and great video ! Thanks
Thanks for the support
Hey man great video . I am a electrician
Your taping method. Crappy tape .
If you use rubber tape . And 3m yellow 88.
As long as the metal strands of the wire were in good shape . That could be a permanent fix . If you were charging someone to do this . Not ok .
If peeps reading want to do yourself . Would work .
Heh. I often do things sloppy. Mostly because I'm ok with the idea that it's merely a temporary fix. I'm sure you or someone else could have done a more professional job but I eventually did just get it repaired outright so I knew it was a short-term thing. I think the main takeaway is finding out where the failure point is. From there it's a matter of cost and time for the user.
Excellent video thanks let me ask you this that problem affects the car getting speed after 35 mph?
It could happen at any time since flaky wiring will confuse the computer whenever you go over bumps or the suspension moves around, which can happen at any speed.
@@ChrisCamaro thank you so much for the information and your video we found some wires hanging now we have to figure it out the problem thanks again
2004 Buick LeSabre Custom.. Same light issue. I’m on a budget, I’m not rich to afford professional repairs.. Driver side rear wheel AIR SHOCK was replaced and now I need to check. I don’t have a shop, or lift. Driver side rear wheel was stuck and I had to kick the wheel off. Where is THE HEATER CORE on the 2004 Buick LeSabre? I’m getting THERMOSTAT fail code after I replaced the thermostat and temp sensor. I got a basic OBD 2 scan tool.
I think I'm having this on my Tahoe hybrid! Thank you!
Thanks for the great video.I have same problem in Caddillac escalade Esv 2016.In raining few lights are ON and the steering gets hard, ABS, Traction, etc. Do you think these are the same issues and fixed as you showed in the video?
Did you solve this?
@@tylermcintyre8503
I got mine right after changing the shocks.
Well turns out the sensor had gotten disconnected
Awesome video, very well explained, thanks!
Having this issue with a 2009 gmc acadia. Tried a new brake input sensor but didn't help. Will try looking at these wheel sensors next.
Well done my friend thanks for the video.
thank you for your service, sir! excellent info
Very welcome
Just curious what was the purpose of starting the vehicle and putting a vehicle in drive and having a wheel turn to pivot the wheel hubs left and right what was the point please explain !¿?
To make sure the wire didn’t get super tight or twist or bind
The idea is to examine the wheels'range of motion and to see how the wheel speed sensor's wire loom moves along with it. If there is something wrong with the way the wire loom is routed, you may see it visually as you turn the wheel.
Can it make the car run bad
My 2008 Saturn aura 3.5 V6 does a little bit before and after the message and chime it’s slightly rough with a loping of the light misfiring feel but no check engine light until I drive a few feet
Would flat spots on a tire causing a mild shake around 45 mph cause these sensors to trip the stabilitrak? I drove about 6 miles fine and then bam I got hit with this issue and my engine reduced power and acted like it was misfiring.
In my case, not only turning but going over uneven road or gravel did cause the problem so I would think yes. Any sort of imbalance in your drivetrain will have a resonant frequency which will amplify the effect at a certain speed. If 45 is your car's resonant frequency it might be enough to trip the ABS, if there's a wiring/sensor problem already.
I put new wheel bearings on my 09 Acadia, and still the same issues. Inspected the wires and still the same issue.
Very helpful video. Thanks
5 years ago, it was a wheel sensor for me on a Buick Lucerne. Line was cut per error in routing when wheel bearing was replaced
Ah human error... my favourite flavour of ice cream.
I just had stabitrack light and check engine light come on in my 2016 Chevy Impala and all I did was put better gas in there I ran three tanks of the E85 in a row and didn't have enough octane to boost the fuel injectors which resulted in engine power reduced, eve, the e88 gas works good but they can keep the e85 fuel for their cars
What kind of gas is that?
I have that problem on a 2012 Toyota Camry and I took it to the mechanic and told me it was an electrical problem and they fix it and I took the car for a long drive and the lights came back on Abs break and tire and I paid 300 dollars to get it fix and I’m piss now
excellent video, pls keep going
Hey love the video but what can I spray in there .... like in the connector
Most hardware stores sell something equivalent to "electrical contact spray", which is a type of solvent the that gets rid of the corrosion that typically forms on conductive materials like copper. It has lubricating qualities too and if you spray some of that in the connector and work the connector on and off half a dozen times, you'll have a good solid connection. Then if you still have issues you'll know it's somewhere else. You can use a multimeter in continuity mode to check both conductors to see if they are shorting as well.
Great video
Great vid and Info Chris. I have a 2007 chevy malibu and every time I do a complete stop for a min, the Traction turns on. As soon as I start driving it goes out but it makes a hard know every time it turns off. Would you know whats wrong with it?
If it happens during stops and you're not losing traction, it's probably the same as what I'm describing in the video, where the suspension is flexing as the car shifts its weight around and as the suspension components move and flex, the ABS cable moves with it. If there's any flaw in the cable, it's going to open and close the circuit with this flexing motion. The problem would therefore most likely be in the part of the cable loom closes to the moving suspension components.
@@ChrisCamaro Thanks for your help Chris, I will take a look at that!
Very helpful!
Hello I have a 2015 Silverado and I’ve been having intermittent abs and traction control lights going on my dash. They haven’t stayed on but today they did and now my truck won’t crank, click or start. For this I think it’s wiring issue, if I hit bumps the right way a light will come on the dash and disappear. Scanned and it says there’s an issue with the left front wheel hub. Could a bad sensor cause a vehicle not to start ? Any help would be great. Thanks.
Ive found that it is usually a sloppy wheel bearing , thats the first thing you check , before you take the wheel off check for play in it by shaking the outside of the wheel ..you got the rest of right though , if gm asked me nicely , i would teach them how to make there trucks better and built cheaper , i dont got no interist in cars though
Thanks for adding to the solution. Is it the vibration caused by slop in the bearing which throws off the sensor or something else? Just curious how this leads to failure of the system.
Yeah , its a one piece unit non greasable , im wondering if it looses lubrication somewhere through its life ,ive seen people attempt to grease them through the abs sensor hole , but i dont think that gets the grease in the right spot on some wheel bearings ..
Lovely word usage!
Great info 😄
Thanks I believe this message is coming on for my Chevy implia
Definitely 90% of the time this is it I've changed over a 100 on different cars and trucks
Seems like something the engineers should address.
@@ChrisCamaro definitely sound indeed
My traction control light will randomly start flashing ( 95* outside) and auto engaging the brakes. Super dangerous while driving. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on for it to stop doing that. I will check it out on my car thanks!