Hey Paul, Perhaps I should ask for sponsorship from Milwaukee! Regardless, they are an awesome tool. I am thinking of getting a little 3/8 drive one next. Much easier to use than dragging around an air hose. Thanks for your comment. 😉👍😁
The best way to test them or most suspension components is to get a screwdriver and lever against the bush and the metal holding it. Have you checked them? Don't forget to check the sway bar bushes as well.
Hey Norman, I didn't torque those ones with a torque wrench, but here are some specs that might help you. forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/torque-settings-for-front-caster-bushing-on-a-standard-vz-commodore.276750/
Thank you for the video. It is very helpful. Is it possible to replace the original radius rod bush with the part you used in the video (48166E)? Or do I need to use the part (48166E) after using the part (48166) first?
The parts I used are aftermarket Nolothane bushes designed to be a direct replacement for the factory rubber bushes. Choosing Nolothane bushes are made easy on their site. You can just enter your rego or do a vehicle check. www.nolathane.com.au/ I replaced all the bushes as this is what the customer requested, but you can just replace what is needed.
Hi Max, I need a miracle. My son just bought a 2005 VZ commodore lumina. when replacing the rack ends today I discovered the steering rack , left side, was stripped. Can this be relapsed or cleaned or use helicoil or is it a new one? Thx Mark
@@MiracleMAX Sorry Max, it was this very same problem shown at th-cam.com/video/bvArBhy75_c/w-d-xo.html. It's the thread that the tap is inserted into. I bought a M14x1.5mm tap to try and rescue the female thread tomorrow. I've never used a tap before nor a helicoil. There was no locating washer.
@@markstrain9429 If that is the case, I suggest a Helicoil if it is badly damaged. Generally they have a big flat washer that you bend over to stop the tie rod from coming loose.
@@MiracleMAX I tried the tap today with assistance from my neighbour who is a retired mechanic. We were able to clean out the thread and fit the new tie rod and tied rod end. What a job it was to get the tap started. Slow and steady with one turn in then back a half, and the tap removed completely after several turns and air blasted out, and so on until the bottom. We tried a standard M14 bolt first and it went in with a little bit of a wiggle then ran the tap over it again. After that it was smooth sailing. Tomorrow I'm doing the other side. Hopefully this will not be a repeat of the left side today. Your videos and explanations are excellent. At some point if you do a video on helicoils in parts mounted to a car such as the rack end thread, that would be great. thanks Mark
Hey Lee Ann Wegener, For many years I used a floor jack and stands, particularly when I was a mobile mechanic, but have now have upgraded to a 'Quick Jack' system. It's a lot easier on the body as you get older, but you don't need a high roof to allow for the lift. 😉 Thanks for your comment.
Aren’t rubber bushes effectively metalastic? I say this as a metalastic bush has no moving parts it relies on the bonded rubber compressing and flexing for articulation. I have the Nolathene’s which make the bushing a moving part (hence need to lubricate). I need to replace these nolathenes radius bush’s after only 12 months as mechanic didn’t believe in putting lube on them 🙄
Hey MultiDesignGuy , A metalastic bush is one that has a rubber that has been cast to a metal bush housing/tube. The style we fitted is purely a bush, without a metal housing. The flexing of the rubber bush is twisted within the casting of the rubber to the metal housing. You are correct, Nolathane bushes move within the suspension and therefore need lubrication. From the Nolathane site: 'The Nolathane lubricant supplied is designed to optimise bush durability and performance. Nolathane grease is a molybdenum disulphide (LM) based grease and has excellent stability & extreme pressure qualities for extended life and high melting point.' Thanks for your comment
I have used Nolathane for many years with no issues. As you notice in the video, there is only one bush that has failed dramatically. This is due to installation failure. If you read the instructions, it is very clear about how to install the bushes. Thanks for you comment.
Tie rod is fine, just knit picking wear & tear, never take my car to mechanics, they just pick a car to pieces, safety is one thing, drawing up a list of work that isn't necessary is another.
Glen you are certainly welcome to your opinion. Personally, I pride myself in my reputation. I tell customers the reason for my suggestions. For example, if the tie rod boots are split, this will create wear of the ball joint located inside as grease is expelled and dirt enters the joint. Once this happens, the wheel alignment will be incorrect, creating excess tyre wear. This then becomes a safety issue as well as wasted money replacing tyres that could have lasted longer. This is preventive maintenance. Obviously this will not happen overnight, so giving the customer an idea of a timeframe is helpful. Notice in the video I stated that the split boot was not a safety issue at that point. But I agree, some mechanics will try and make a money grab at whatever they can find. Thanks for your comment.
Ive had my share of bad experiences with Mechanics & their to do lists🙈 Some Mechanics like yourself id trust 👍 Just a Shame there is so many Mechanics out there that rob us blind with their bullshit to do list just so they can make much more more money than the job required , Greed from some & its wrong👎@MiracleMAX
Thanks so much for the video, especially where you showed the symptom of failed bushings, i'm planning to do this soon. I'm trying to figure out what i need to lubricate. I think that you showed incorrect lubrication of the outside of the bushing (not supposed to lube that part), see this guide www.nolathane.com.au/bulletins/Update%200912.pdf
Thanks for your comment. I have never lubed the outer steel shell bush, but that is interesting that the outside of nolathane bush doesn't get lubed on the outside. Should have read the instruction more closely! That update you have is a lot clearer😉
Thanks mate, in depth well explained and easy to follow, got me out of paying a fortune for a mechanic 👍🏼👍🏼
Glad it helped 😊
Well done mate, another job logged :)
Keeps the joints lubbed up as well 😊
Nearly at the 5k subs too, nice work
Thanks Bud! 😁
Love the Commodore content , great stuff
Glad to hear. If you surf the channel, there is other Commodore content that might interest you. 😉👍
Well presented and informative video
Cheers Mate, thanks for your comment. 😁👍
Yeah man awesome video, plus I'll get the Milwaukee
impac also, love your work.
Hey Paul,
Perhaps I should ask for sponsorship from Milwaukee! Regardless, they are an awesome tool. I am thinking of getting a little 3/8 drive one next. Much easier to use than dragging around an air hose.
Thanks for your comment. 😉👍😁
awesome video MM 😎
Thanks Buddy 😁👍
Nice work matey 😃 Very helpful 👍 Cheers from Bundaberg Qld 🕺🍹
Thanks mate! 😉
Great video mate. Very helpful.
Glad to hear it! 👍
good quality work and informative
Thanks a lot 😉
Excellent video.
Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed the video. 😁
Nice work mate
Thanks Jie Matene,
I appreciate your comment 👍😁
If these are shot will this make a clunking nose while going around corners & nearly every bump in the road ?
The best way to test them or most suspension components is to get a screwdriver and lever against the bush and the metal holding it. Have you checked them? Don't forget to check the sway bar bushes as well.
Great show mate. I would like to know the torque settings you used on front radius bush nuts please.
Hey Norman,
I didn't torque those ones with a torque wrench, but here are some specs that might help you.
forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/torque-settings-for-front-caster-bushing-on-a-standard-vz-commodore.276750/
Very helpful, cheers!
Thanks Jordy, glad to hear that! 😉
can you do and engine mount replacement
Sure, next time I get one in for repair 👍
How many miles were on these bushings?
Sorry, I don't know. Someone else replaced the bushes
Thank you for the video. It is very helpful. Is it possible to replace the original radius rod bush with the part you used in the video (48166E)? Or do I need to use the part (48166E) after using the part (48166) first?
The parts I used are aftermarket Nolothane bushes designed to be a direct replacement for the factory rubber bushes.
Choosing Nolothane bushes are made easy on their site. You can just enter your rego or do a vehicle check.
www.nolathane.com.au/
I replaced all the bushes as this is what the customer requested, but you can just replace what is needed.
My vt supercharged had fluid leaking from the tie rod boots any ideas
This could be caused by the internal seals of the power steering rack leaking
@@MiracleMAX big job or nah. I have to do it all myself.
Thankyou for the reply
@@187th If you intend tackling it yourself, a replacement rack would be the best option
Hi Max, I need a miracle. My son just bought a 2005 VZ commodore lumina. when replacing the rack ends today I discovered the steering rack , left side, was stripped. Can this be relapsed or cleaned or use helicoil or is it a new one? Thx Mark
Do you mean the tie rod or the tie rod end? Depending on how bad the thread is, you could retap the thread or use a Helicoil
@@MiracleMAX Sorry Max, it was this very same problem shown at th-cam.com/video/bvArBhy75_c/w-d-xo.html. It's the thread that the tap is inserted into. I bought a M14x1.5mm tap to try and rescue the female thread tomorrow. I've never used a tap before nor a helicoil. There was no locating washer.
@@markstrain9429 If that is the case, I suggest a Helicoil if it is badly damaged. Generally they have a big flat washer that you bend over to stop the tie rod from coming loose.
@@MiracleMAX I tried the tap today with assistance from my neighbour who is a retired mechanic. We were able to clean out the thread and fit the new tie rod and tied rod end. What a job it was to get the tap started. Slow and steady with one turn in then back a half, and the tap removed completely after several turns and air blasted out, and so on until the bottom. We tried a standard M14 bolt first and it went in with a little bit of a wiggle then ran the tap over it again. After that it was smooth sailing. Tomorrow I'm doing the other side. Hopefully this will not be a repeat of the left side today. Your videos and explanations are excellent. At some point if you do a video on helicoils in parts mounted to a car such as the rack end thread, that would be great. thanks Mark
@@markstrain9429 Glad you were able to rescue the thread. Great idea on a helicoil video. Will keep that in mind. 👍😉
Hey bro will this fit 2005
The parts im meaning
It's best to enter your details into the Nolathane search window
www.nolathane.com.au/rego_search.php
Question.................what did you use to raise the car please
Hey Lee Ann Wegener,
For many years I used a floor jack and stands, particularly when I was a mobile mechanic, but have now have upgraded to a 'Quick Jack' system. It's a lot easier on the body as you get older, but you don't need a high roof to allow for the lift. 😉
Thanks for your comment.
were those front bushes really knackered? Looked good to me
Yeah, maybe just needed a little grease 😉
How much was the kit?
You will need to contact your parts supplier for prices
@@MiracleMAX I have rung around and they are saying 220 is that sounding about right for this kit?
@@dile9288 Sorry, I can't help with pricing. I would do just the same as you have just done. Have you tried looking for prices on the internet?
AWESOME !
Thanks!!
No press needed ? I’m trying to install rubber ones atm not fun
No press is needed for this repair Rob. Are you using rubber grease to install the bushes?
Grease them up
Good job bud , Super Pro for me much better
Good to know!
Thanks for your comment
Aren’t rubber bushes effectively metalastic? I say this as a metalastic bush has no moving parts it relies on the bonded rubber compressing and flexing for articulation.
I have the Nolathene’s which make the bushing a moving part (hence need to lubricate).
I need to replace these nolathenes radius bush’s after only 12 months as mechanic didn’t believe in putting lube on them 🙄
Hey MultiDesignGuy ,
A metalastic bush is one that has a rubber that has been cast to a metal bush housing/tube.
The style we fitted is purely a bush, without a metal housing. The flexing of the rubber bush is twisted within the casting of the rubber to the metal housing.
You are correct, Nolathane bushes move within the suspension and therefore need lubrication.
From the Nolathane site:
'The Nolathane lubricant supplied is designed to optimise bush durability and performance. Nolathane grease is a molybdenum disulphide (LM) based grease and has excellent stability & extreme pressure qualities for extended life and high melting point.'
Thanks for your comment
because Nolathane is garbage mate
@@88kwthomas totally totally agree , just has all Nola’s removed and my VY commodore is just lovely to drive, yes agreed they are a con
"Nolathane is a great product" procedes to press out crumbling scraps of a Nolathane bush with thumb
I have used Nolathane for many years with no issues. As you notice in the video, there is only one bush that has failed dramatically. This is due to installation failure. If you read the instructions, it is very clear about how to install the bushes.
Thanks for you comment.
Lefty loosy righty tightly 🤣
True! But that saying only applies to right hand threads 😉
Tie rod is fine, just knit picking wear & tear, never take my car to mechanics, they just pick a car to pieces, safety is one thing, drawing up a list of work that isn't necessary is another.
Glen you are certainly welcome to your opinion. Personally, I pride myself in my reputation. I tell customers the reason for my suggestions. For example, if the tie rod boots are split, this will create wear of the ball joint located inside as grease is expelled and dirt enters the joint. Once this happens, the wheel alignment will be incorrect, creating excess tyre wear. This then becomes a safety issue as well as wasted money replacing tyres that could have lasted longer. This is preventive maintenance. Obviously this will not happen overnight, so giving the customer an idea of a timeframe is helpful. Notice in the video I stated that the split boot was not a safety issue at that point.
But I agree, some mechanics will try and make a money grab at whatever they can find.
Thanks for your comment.
Ive had my share of bad experiences with Mechanics & their to do lists🙈 Some Mechanics like yourself id trust 👍 Just a Shame there is so many Mechanics out there that rob us blind with their bullshit to do list just so they can make much more more money than the job required , Greed from some & its wrong👎@MiracleMAX
Don't talk in childish form
Sorry, I don't understand what you are stating.
Thanks so much for the video, especially where you showed the symptom of failed bushings, i'm planning to do this soon. I'm trying to figure out what i need to lubricate. I think that you showed incorrect lubrication of the outside of the bushing (not supposed to lube that part), see this guide www.nolathane.com.au/bulletins/Update%200912.pdf
Thanks for your comment. I have never lubed the outer steel shell bush, but that is interesting that the outside of nolathane bush doesn't get lubed on the outside. Should have read the instruction more closely! That update you have is a lot clearer😉