Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer Dual Gear Extruder Upgrade PLUS FULL E-Steps Setup
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Ender 3 Pro Dual Gear Extruder Upgrade PLUS FULL E-Steps Setup
In this video I will take you through the whole process of upgrading an extruder on Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. Plus I will show you step by step how to adjust the E-Steps so your extruder will work correctly and you will great results with 3D printing.
Shopping:
UK - Ender 3 Pro on Banggood - usa.banggood.c...
Filament - www.banggood.c...
Dual Gear Extruder - uk.banggood.co...
USA - Ender 3 Pro on Banggood - uk.banggood.co...
Filament - usa.banggood.c...
Dual Gear Extruder - www.banggood.c...
UK - Ender 3 Pro on Amazon - amzn.to/3x6Ripr
Filament - amzn.to/3NQ9I4l
Filament pack of 3 - amzn.to/3GFoetk
Dual Gear Extruder - amzn.to/3OaLgeF
USA - Ender 3 Pro on Amazon - amzn.to/3NOjNPo
Filament - amzn.to/3m9DtRK
Filament pack of 4 - amzn.to/3GPri6o
Filament pack of 12 - amzn.to/3Nge8BG
Dual Gear Extruder - amzn.to/3bhvpwj
All my tools, woodworking accessories and video making kit is now in one place for you to check out. These are Amazon affiliate links. With a purchase through this link, you get an awesome tool and you will support my channel without spending a penny more. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, thank you for your support!
Link to Amazon is just below! Thanks!
Tools I use and recommend:
www.amazon.co....
Shop on Banggood - www.banggood.c...
You can now support my channel via Patreon. If you feel my content adds value for you or its entertaining then help me continue to do so.
Any donations via Patreon are so much appreciated, you can find out more here: / casualdiy Thanks!
You can support my channel by dropping some change in the Casual DIY Tip Box. Thanks for your support!
www.paypal.me/...
You can find me on:
Instagram - / casualdiy
Twitter - / casualdiy
Facebook - / casualdiy
Etsy - www.etsy.com/u...
Web page - www.casualdiy.com
Email - casualdiyuk@gmail.com
#casualdiy #woodworking #ender3pro
DISCLAIMER
My videos are for entertaining purposes only, your safety is your responsibility. Please do not follow my actions if you find them unsafe.
I think the main issue with my prints being bad in the first place was a bad stock extruder. Got this one, calibrating e-steps now and just got the community firmware as well. Much-needed additions honestly.
E-Steps Setup is GOLD! Saved me from over 3 days of "why it doesn't work???"
Thank you for your awesome tutorial!!! Cheers!!!
Glad that my video was some help
btw I had found other people doing this, it seems like it's always around 140 (I've seen 140.5, 141 and this one), I've just tried one of those and it was spot on, it's a good starting point if you wanna do it quicker
Tomasz, guess what? After leaving a comment 11 months ago I finally replaced my extruder. Thank you again for this tutorial I was able to refer to and get the job done. Cheers mate 👍😎
Better late than never mate. Well done 👍
Amazing information, thank you, I watched before installing it and with no instructions in the box I would've been able to install it but had no clue about the e-steps. My settings were fortunately EXACTLY the same as yours which made it more simple :)
Glad that my video was some help 👍
When I first started having extruder issues, this is exactly what I did. Worked great for a while. Fast forward a couple years, 5 various Ender 3's, Bambu X1C w AMS and Bambu P1S and the reality of the situation becomes clear. The cheap plastic extruders work well. In my opinion better than the dual gear drive. What changed? The amount of understanding I have about how the machines and slicing software work. If you need to do this to buy you the time you need to learn more about the craft, then do it. If you wonder why you can't get the extruder to work correctly and that keeps you up at night, keep searching...
And by the way, those all metal extruders wear out very quickly where the filament enters...
Thank you! I've had soo much issues with my ender 5, and I was beginning to loose my mind.
Calibrating with your guidance and buying new metal extruder solved my issues!
Glad it helped!
I don’t know if my math was not mathing but it took me 4 times to get the esteps correctly, great video tho, a huge help
Thanks mate! Just done the same upgrade but thought to myself they different sizes so the feed rate will be different, so i did a search and yours came up,, sorry i did a cheat and used your parameters as we had the same setup, but found a 2mm difference, so made an educated calculation to compensate between yours and mine, dialed in perfectly now😂
Hehe glad that my video was some help 👍
Im so glad i found this video! I couldnt get my head around how to do esteps on my cr10s but you explained it perfectly, plus i was able to easily install my dual gear extruder. Keep doing what youre doing friend, thank you.
Glad that my video was some help 👍
Great video Tomasz, very well explained. This isn't a mod I've made to mine as yet, my first upgrade was changing the Bed Springs & control wheels, then printing a clip-on extension arm to maintain a smooth arc for the filament feed into the extruder 👍.
Hehe all those cool upgrades still ahead of me 😁👍
Can’t thank you enough for this precise demo
Glad that my video was some help
The calculation formula of correcting extruder e-steps is like this. 100 / (100 - under extrusion amount in mm) * e-steps of your machine for example I had 10mm exactly 1cm underextrusion so my formula is 100 / (100 - 10) * 93 = 103.333 so I input 103.3 in my machine as new extrusion e-step value
Wonderful video mate! Thank you for the excellent explanation! Cheers :)
Thank you for watching 👍
Thanks. I have eleven machines..onward!
Turns out me Ender 3 extruder motors have much shorter shafts. Be aware
Just a notice if you have the newer extruder motors with the pressure fit gears, this kit won't work at all. The axle bar coming out of the motor is too short so when you put on the new gear it's not close enough to the filament to push it.
Fortunately mine fits perfectly
Your comment is IMPORTANT! I bought the kit and had this surprise when I was about to install (yesterday), I removed the motor and then couldn't even remove the pressure fit gear. Fortunatelly I have one CNC I built with Nema 17 4g motors with proper axles, used one of them. Ppl with same printer (Ender 3 Pro) shoud buy new motor too! Also dont screw too hard on the extruder gear, the screw is really small and prune to be dusted, I had to use superglue to fix the screw.
thank you
new printers have the gear press fit, even if you remove the gear the motor shaft is too short!!!!
They address this in the new manual slip and should still work. My issue was the gear is soldered on or something in the new model I got for the Ender 3 Pro.
You can't even remove the gear to set this up. So check your extruder motor first.
That is correct, I pulled my motor apart and pressed the shaft 4mm through the armature, so now the rear of the shaft only sits in about 2.5mm of rear bearing which is still fine as there is no high speed revolution, now the pinion gear grub screw captures the shaft, also ground a flat spot for better grip an no slippage, the old version had the flat spot, have had no issues so far, could buy a 42-40 motor online with a longer shaft, but is too expensive, have to think outside the box brothers ✌️
@@parameterfpvcutoff wheel on a dremel then split with a flatblade screwdriver
Thank you for the clear and easy tutorial!
Thank you for watching 👍
Fantastic tutorial, Tomasz! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much my friend. All the best to you and your family 👍
Thanks for very well explained video on this upgrade. Ordered mine so I can fit it in place of the original plastic one and maybe save some hassle later. Cheers ATB
That was my thinking with this upgrade 👍 thank you for watching 👍
Now putting this dual gear as a direct drive... is that something that can also be done or do the dual gear extruders only need to be used on the stock setups?
Lots of complains about this extruder and potential grinding, i believe these issues have been resolved by them chamfering the edges of the gears, but make sure.
I'll be watching it closely 👍
This helped me so much!, thank you!!
Glad it helped!
I have about 100 culminated hours on mine and just recently having hard jams at the arrow point on the block after the gears. No wear on the block from the gear, everything looked good. It will run for about an hour then it will jam. I rebuilt my extruder, clean the bearings and applied new grease. I also made sure the gears were aligned even. Im running a new print now and Im about 30 min in with no issues atm. The print looks sharper so Im hoping it was just loose and dirty hardware.
Let us know how it went 👍
@@CasualDIY 1:20 in it jammed up again. Im going to install stock extruder back on and re run the same print.
Print ran fine with stock extruder. I will need to investigate what's causing my failure. I did notice my tube had significant wear inside the fitting. Previously I did not pull the fitting completely off so I never seen the compromised tube. After work I will swap out the extruder and try another run with the fixed tube see if that was the cause to my heartache lol.
@@octogames6823 hmm such a small thing but causing so many issues. Let's hope that is the problem. Please let me know if it was 👍
@@CasualDIY Update, I Re-Installed the Big Red, Made sure everything was good and ran my print twice, no issues. The Take away from all this is I should have take off the fitting completely to inspect the tube. The bowden tube was pretty much like an old sock. From the outside under the fitting it looked great, lol. So yes lesson learned and I should never assume its in working order.
Did you find a way to attach the wheel to the top of the new motor? Mine doesn't have the shaft coming out of the top.
Sorry not sure what ate you reffing to. Mine works fine so far anyway.
@@CasualDIY my ender 3v2 had a small blue wheel that sat atop the extruder motor shaft. Could use it to feed filament in and out. Or just better visually see the extruder doing work. Maybe not all enders have this.
I have ender 3 v2 and I have installed dual gear extruder got the e-setps calibrated right , In result the first layer is perfect but from the second layer and on it over-extruded to a point which the e-step motor started to skip steps
Could be the motor, could be the extruder or maybe the esteps are not set up correctly. Difficult to pin point the reason
@@CasualDIY I found out the problem it was the flow rate , I calibrated it and got reduced from 100 to 83
@@sarikareem8728 sorted then👍
glad you went through the setup of the esteps I think when I was first starting printing actually calibrating the printer correctly was the most confusing thing. Would you consider going direct drive with the ender 3 i think creality sell a new bracket to allow this.
Exactly, when you change the extruder you just must change the E-steps at the same time.
Not sure I must do more research about this. Need to way the benefits of it.
Helpful video thank you!
Thanks for watching
A very good tutorial Tomasz. I've had the parts for this upgrade for ages and now might just pull the trigger. I like the evolution orange filament colour too. What brand of filament are you using? Cheers 🍻
Whatever I managed to buy on offer 🤣 I think this particular is just a standard Banggood filament. But I bought it over 2 years ago with my printer and I just can't remember the "brand name"
When trying to calibrate, I get a completely different result each time. Any ideas as to what could cause this?
could be the filament poor quality and its not equally thick, could be the motor itself hard to say really.
Should i buy left or right hand for easiest install?
Left or right? It goes only one way to my knowledge, not seen options like that when I was doing this
But this e-steps and how much extruder take filament depend on: nozle diameter and temp of hot end ;) ????????
Try it and see
I’m not sure what’s up with my Pro, I have none of those settings for the E-Steps. According to the printer info screen I have marlin 2.0.4.2 so I thought that was pretty recent firmware but perhaps not
Well my Ender 3 Pro is an old one, as I said I bought it like over two years ago and most likely it wasn't straight off production line. I didn't update it yet so it runs of whatever software it had. Yours should have the e-steps somewhere its a very standard and basic thing really.
My extruder thing is built on doesn't have the screw to release it. What do I do
You can drop me a photo with an explanation to my email, maybe I will be able to help. No promises tho - casualdiyuk@gmail.omc
Why do you do e steps out of the extruder area then before the extruder? Not many places recommend both.
You can do both before the extruder if you want. Makes no difference in my opinion.
I think i have an older style stepper motor. My brass gear doesn't have an allen screw its just stuck on. Is there any way to remove that gear or do i need to replace the entire stepper?
Should be able to remove just the gear.
@@CasualDIY no, the gearbox axle is round not square and has a permanent gear attached. There is nothing to unscrew to take off the gear and replace with the new one.
I had the same issue...i removed the gear with a puller but...the shaft was too short, so I had to buy a new stepper.
What Retract Lenght and Retract Speed do you now use with the RedRex ?
To be absolutely honest I can't remember now. I will have to check it out and come back to you
@@CasualDIY TY i can wait 🙂
@@CasualDIY and ;) ?
Do you have Amazon link for it
Yes mate, all the links are I the description of this video 👍
Good tutorial. But in my case it didn't work. Reverted back to stock. Wrong calculations on ender 3 pro, wasted money on that filament gear for nothing.
Frankly my Friend this is a definite print quality Downgrade !
The venerable Mk8 extruder ( creality copied it in Plastic fer Gawds' sake ) while new decent quality ali ones are 8 Bux... Complete .
Says far too much about Creality :-)
But the twin MG type gears have proven as a Piss Poor design. The gears are Eccentric (true) don't mesh well leaving repetive ripples that look like Z banding in prints... The idler uses Garbage quality Needle bearings and Yours (here) even run an Effing Screw rather than a hardened steel bearing shaft (which self destructs the shaft/ bearings and sprocket surprisingly quickly.) Quality metals apparently cost a Few Rimbi more.
Gotta stop trusting to Utube Shills Mate.
IF they atually knew what they were up to... they wouldn't be wasting their lives on Videos.
For my occasional painting seems to be working just fine. However if you run your printer all the time you may see those issues.
I ordered an Ender 3 Pro yesterday from Matterhackers. Hopefully should arrive tomorrow. I've been watching various videos on assembly (including yours), and it looks easy enough. This will actually be my third 3D printer. The first was a totally homebrew "repstrap" made with surplus parts, Chinese PC boards, and metal bits from HomeDepot. I gradually rebuilt that machine in place, it even 3D printed its own upgrade parts (RepRap, you know). My second printer was a RepRap Wilson, all the 3d parts were printed on my Repstrap. I had to leave those printers behind when my wife and I moved north, so I decided to buy a cheap kit printer, and the Ender 3 Pro has gotten good reviews. I'll probably upgrade this with a bed level sensor (either inductive or touch), an all metal hot end, and a Wham Bam magnetic bed build platform. I hope the printer I ordered has the new 32 bit board, I've heard that they've switched over to them. If not, I'll probably upgrade to that as well eventually.
BTW there is nothing wrong with a single gear extruder, both of my home brew printers (Wilson was a kit of parts), had them. However, both of my single gear exturders did have a tension adjustment, and the filament was pressed onto the gear by a bearing used as a pulley wheel. My repstrap had a direct drive extruder, the Wilson was converted to a Bowden type to reduce the weight on the X axis. Both worked quite well. The Repstrap had an all metal Prometheus hot end, the Wilson used a Clone E6D. Both worked well with all common filament types.
That's what I like about these 3D printer, they are highly customisable and you can drastically improve their performance.