Creality Ender 3 - V2 - Dual Gear Is a Great Upgrade, Except for This One Issue... Let's Fix it!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2021
- I knew what I was getting into on this one, so I was ready! A video from CHEP showed some testing he performed and the dual gear was giving more accurate and repeatable results every time on extrusions. In CHEP's video he showed the aluminum below the gear wearing away and his solution was to add oil, which helped but it didn't prevent the problem. So thank to to the CHEP channel for the inspiration for this video.
If you'd like to become a patron to help this channel grow and get involved with future video ideas, here is the link: / needitmakeit
CHEP's Video - • Dual Drive Gear Extrud...
I have tested this myself over several weeks and this dual gear really does have excellent grip on the filament without changing the shape. As an example, when putting a spool back to switch colors, I accidentally fed the end under the next line and didn't notice. Rather than the gears slipping, the printer pulled itself to the fixed spool holder inside my enclosure until finally it could not move anymore. After that experience I became pretty confident that dual-gear was the way to go.
In this video we identify the problem and we'll correct the problem with the most basic tools I can find so that this fix can be made by just about anyone. Yes I have a metal lathe and no I did not use it because not everyone has a lathe.
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#ender3
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#Problemsolving - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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adjusting the gear on the motor at the highest it can accept the filament in the groove this will force the other gear from resting on the bottom plate no wear
running 3 ender-3 for the last 5 month no issue
That's an excellent solution! Using the hobbed gear design to avoid the problem. I was aligning the gear with the holes. I will pin your solution to the top.
Its good too but the best alighment is putting top edge of the gear with the edge of the motor rod chamfer.
Likewise I bet many with issues might have had their motor gear a tiny bit low. I aligned my stepper gear with the top under surface of the arm, but as suggested I think I'll align it just a hair higher, so there's a little bit of upward pressure from the filament and slot to lift the arm gear.
Already had silicone paste grease, it's great stuff and about $12 for an 8 ounce plastic container. Similar to the video I was planning to make a plastic washer but a thinner clear plastic window or from product clear bubble card. That plus the grease should let me see plastic shavings before there is damage to the aluminum..
But I suspect the slightly higher motor gear will take care of everything.. Still get the paste grease, the bearings etc almost everything on these except the filament drive slot itself should be greased, and it's useful on the printer rods as well..
I had to mill 60 thou off the face where it mounts to the motor in order to get enough motor shaft to position the gears precisely. Otherwise the set screw in the gear barely grabbed the end of the shaft and would pop out.
Don't adjust it _too_ high though, or you'll get the same issue, only rubbing up top instead of on the bottom.
My solution: Aligned the two gears by simply inserting a filament between them and moving the filament back and forth to release the tension before tightening the gear on the stepper. Two plus years with no such problems as described here.
My guess would be that the filament keeps the gear not attached to the stepper motor from riding on the bottom causing wear, and the filament stays in that position because of the gear on the stepper motor
Do you by any chance have any photo/video that would explain specifically how you did this? It's been a couple months since I installed this, I do remember using filament to align the gears, but I still get the powder/shavings when I print with this.
Doing this right now to try to fix the slipping
My solution was to just raise the drive gear to as high as it could go and adjust the idle gear accordingly. the force of the spring clamping itself to the filament forces it to stay off the frame and not grind it down.
Just got mine in 2023 and it already has the spacers in it.... whewww
Nice surprise: i bought an Elegoo Neptune 2S with dual gear extruder. To prevent self-grinding i disassembled the extruder gear to install the shim fix. To my surprise they already have 2 copper washers installed. 👍
Thanks for all the details! Should have done this while assembling the extruder, I've only used it for a couple of months but it made visible groove already.
I have this exact extruder since CHEP made a video about it, I put a good amount of grease on all moving parts from day one, and I notices just a little bit of wear to this day.
the idea with the plastic washer is brilliant, gona do this if I ever need to replace the old one or I buy a second printer.
the one thing I changed on mine was wehre the filament is inserted, I drilled the hole bigger so I can put in a ptfe tubing (just 5cm long) that makes it easier to insert the filament and you can have the filament roll on top of the printer without scraping the filament on the metal extruder insert hole.
I had a CR10S pro with this issue. I used shim brass and fabricated some 0.002” thick washers. I stoned the steel drive gear ends which removed all the machining marks and left a mirror surface. The aluminum was very worn with a deep 0.6mm circular rut so I filed the area flat. I also put an additional shim brass washer under the lever pivot. Finally, I moved the stepper motor drive gear in and out until the idler drive gear had some end space (floated) when gripping filament. Only the needle bearing cage can/might slide against the shim brass.
A few months ago repositioned the repaired assembly to the hot end creating a direct drive and quickly followed that by converting to duet control electronics. The creality controller failed in my 60C heated chamber. The chamber is just a clear corrugated plastic 4x8' sheet (building supplies) folded up and with some packing tape and an ikea picture frame for a door, it warms up from the bed heat.
Cheers Peter
I bought this kit. Note that with the dual gears, it's necessary to ensure that the grub screw is well engaged on the shaft flat side and that it doesn't foul the idler gear, forcing the two apart, causing the dreaded Ender 3 clunk. I had to file about 0.5mm off the grub screw.
Wish I would have run across this video in Nov. I have this exact problem.
I've just done this washer mod to the gear, thanks for the tip.
Thank you for this video. It is good to get such detailed construction information about this extruder. One thing about this extruder that looks disturbing to me is that the rollers of the bearings (which are most likely hardened) are riding on the inner bore surface of the unhardened gears. To me, this looks like another place that will be subjected to wear and damage from the hardened bearing rollers. Or am I mistaken? Are there hardened bushings pressed into these gears?
Thank you so much. This is such a good idea with the plastic washer.
No problem, there is an easier solution too, people are setting the motor side gear a little high and it keep the driven gear at approximately the right height. May not work well for TPU, but probably does for other filaments.
Thanks for posting this. I have about 30 hours of printing on mine and there is a tiny pile of shavings by the arm. I guess I know what I will be doing today.
Nice!
Installed mine (after a broken arm) few days ago. I will disassemble it tomorrow to do the same as you. Thanks!
A few people seem to have inserted thin shims, did you read the comment about setting the gear on the motor side a little high? That might do a good job of stopping the grinding also. Thank you for the comment!
@@NeedItMakeIt Read it all, will try it all :) Thanks!
saved me a lot of time and some money. Thank you!
FYI, this only happens if the gear on the stepper is too low. It should be flush with the top of the stepper shaft. Then the gear on the arm won't grind into the aluminum. The gear teeth are designed to self align, if they have the room for it. Otherwise they will try to make room.
I just checked the video for the esteps, to not to make guesswork. Mine ordered from ali, came with a bronze washer. I applied some ptfe spray to the bearing and the gears to ensure long lasting lubrication
very usefull , I had the same problem a month ago
thank you helpfull video, i updated this from 3dman on my ender 3
Little fun fact, not all of those dual gear extruders actually come with a smooth rod screw for the idling gear.
Most of them actually have a fully threaded screw which will lead to the fast death of the pinwheel bearings inside.
Finding a smooth rod screw is actually pretty hard from my own attempts at finding one.
So I simply got a DIN912 M3x40mm screw and cut it off at the end with a dremel.
Oh the dremel, where would be be without it. I still have my original dremel from when I was a kid and it still works great. Great tip, other people have mentioned this as well and for sure that is a problem, pretty silly they'd do that especially since these parts don't seem to be hardened.
My kit came with a fully threaded screw. Luckily I have metal lathe and was able to make a replacement. I have had no problems with this new screw.
I've already got a similar kit ordered (currently on the proverbial slow boat). No doubt I'll need to make a similar modification.
Thanks for the helpful information.
A viewer had a great tip, align the gear on the motor side slightly high, the hobbed curve will keep the driven gear at approx the right height, that's a great tip and probably works as well as my solution.
@@NeedItMakeIt I saw that. Another idea I was thinking about was making a washer out of some shim brass that I have - it's a bit thinner than the HDPE you used so I hope I wouldn't have to "adjust"
the gear as much if I followed your lead. Decisions, decisions...
I'm having major issues with this and thats why I'm here. I'm hoping your going to be my saving grace. Mine just keeps binding up
Can you remove the tube from the nozzle side and see whether it still extrudes through? I‘d imagine that the issue lies in the nozzle. It could be clogged, the tube can also deteriorate over time inside the hotend, this can cause problems extruding as well.
Thank you for the suggestion! And that makes lot of sence. I installed this kit on my voxelab aquila c2 3d printer and the end stops were different so it ran into the glass bed and slid over the glass and I have glue on it. So I'm thinking its all clogged up now. At least thats what I'm hoping because right now because all it does right now is try to turn but it keeps clicking and jumping track so it won't push the filament through.
Thank you again. I'll message after work and let you know if that worked
@@joewynn2445 Sounds good, it does sound like that's the problem, either the nozzle or the tube inside the hotend, between the heatsink and the nozzle. I've had these problems and I think you can fix it pretty quickly. Yes, please let me know and good luck!
@@NeedItMakeIt im still having issues, i set mine up as a direct drive Extruder and im having issues. I changed out the Nozzle and I LinkedIn the bowden tube and it actually started to print but then it started doing the same thing again. I think I'm going to try setting it back up the way it was before and not have it a direct drive system and see if I can actually get it to print something
this video and music is like relax therapy
hey mate, great video, are you using the yellow spring that came with the extruder or you exchange it with the one provided with the plastic extruder? I am asking as i am hearing from others that the yellow one is very stiff. I am still waiting my dual gear extruder to be delivered and would like to know in advance what spring to use. thanks
Thanks for sharing.
Great video, thank you!
I actually have this exact same model (leoway) from Amazon in the post... Spooky. Thanks for the heads up! Subbed
Anytime!
I made a washer by using a hole puncher on a teflon sheet and cut a hole in the center of the disc with an xacto knife. It fit perfectly on the F1rst Layer dual gear extruder without requiring any filing and removed all up/down play play of the gear giving a very slick smooth bearing surface.
The interesting thing is that this extruder was in Creality packaging and the bottom edge of the gear was beveled. Is this their solution to the metal grinding? The retaining screw that goes through the bearing was completely threaded, so I am going to look for a m3x20mm half thread for replacement.
Anyone finding this in 2022, 5aPlusRepRap released a version of this extruder with a copper washer on the bottom, a second set of gears included and the it used a shoulder bolt instead of a fully threaded screw for the idler, solving every problem this extruder has faced.
I noticed you removed the two inner bearings in the gear wheel - but did not see you add them back. I'm assuming those inner bearings are not needed after the wheel has been filed down and fitted along with the plastic washer? BTW - thanks for the video. I haven't installed my WINSINN made dual gear extruder yet. But will follow your video when I do , to fix this problem.
my biggest gripe with my dual gear upgrade was that it created a lot of dust out of the filament during retractions. I just used a hard enough philips head screwdriver to smoothen the sharp angles from the gear to the tube, and apparently, it completely eliminated the problem.
But that might make it less efficient in extruding the filament.
When I make very small plastic washers from plastic containers I use drill and nail cutter for finer and rounder edges. There maybe a lot better special tools for this like that puncher, its just that nail cutters are available on most household.
Fortunately mine does not have this problem :) But nice style of video and chill voice. You got another abo .
Did you buy the creality version? Apparently it was designed correctly. Thanks for the comment!
@@NeedItMakeIt na i think its not creality labled
I've been using my V2 for about a month and the extruder arm broke. I replaced it with a metal one last night and it works great now.
I got these identical punches almost 15 years ago and i love them. But i don't almost ever get to use them. I'll need to try to come up with things that need custom HDPE washers now.
One problem I keep hearing about from others is that the extruder gets hot because of the motor and in return its causing filaments to soften to much prior to making it to the hotend. I suggested they print a spacer the go between the extruder and the mounting bracket. From what I hear it works well to reduce heat transfer.
To this ill add, get a bigger motor if youre using a bowden setup, it legit has only upside beside the cost, theyre not even that expensive. More power, runs cooler, and since it sits on the frame it'll have no problem
Mine had already worn its way down at least half way through the metal arm so I found a washer that was close to the size that I needed so with a file I made it fit over the worn out part and now it's fixed and will last a long long than a plastic washer and maybe it might last longer than the bearings will.
Replace the bolt with a hardened dowel. Eventually the bolt is worn enough that the arm will start to shift and cause big problems under extruding. Since putting a dowel in and putting steel washer on both ends of the gear I have not had any steel bits show up for months
Exactly right, this is the root of the problem...
So I bought one of these a few weeks back, one of the variants from Amazon. I haven't installed it just yet and luckily I ran into information describing this issue the day it arrived. So I modded mine already and plan on installing it this week. What I did was similar to what you have done. I removed the gear and rounded the edges of the arm where the gear sits in the arm, just the tiniest bit. I then "painted" on some Dupont Nonstick Teflon coating on the arm and the gear. I then added a 0.1mm stainless steel shim that I had from a set of shims I bought for an RC car on Amazon from Yeah Racing and are 3mm ID and 7mm OD. The shim fit perfectly under the gear, fitting just inside the diameter of the teeth. Now I have a 0.1mm space between the arm and the gear and I hope that keeps it from rubbing. I tried to find teflon washers/shims that size but had no luck finding them, i'm sure they are out there somewhere. I also added SuperLube PTFE grease to the shim as well as to the pin bearing inside. My only gripe about he extruder set I bought is that the bolt that goes down through the pin bearing has threads all the way down the shaft. I noticed that yours just has threads on the ends. I need to get myself one of those bolts. Great tutorial on how to fix this! I hope my comment helps others in their quest in getting better prints! Thank you for the video!
Very interesting idea, it seems quite a few people have their own innovative solutions so solve the problem. 3D printing people tend to be problem solvers as well, which helps. Nice work. Dupont teflon coating, I will have to look that up. Nice work!
@@NeedItMakeIt Yeah, the Duport Dry-Film Lubricant works well, I have the squeeze bottle, but they also have an aerosol. I learned about it from people using it to put a film on their Z axis screws. People have been using it to put a film on the inside and outside of their nozzles to prevent clogs and from filament sticking to the outside of the nozzle. I did coat my nozzle with it 2 weeks ago, just the outside, and it does seem to keep it cleaner and easier to pull off filament from it. DO NOT let it get on the bed or you'll never get a print to stick, lol.
@@housinit Sold! I was thinking about something on the hardened steel nozzle the other day and I print with PETG now mainly and it likes to stick and then dump a nice string in the worst place. Great info thank you.
@@NeedItMakeIt Yeah, thats where people use it the most, with the hardened steel nozzle and PETG. Its cheap on Amazon and I feel like it will last me forever.
Newer versions on this have a curved bottom to the idler gear and solve this issue. slightly Rounding over the bottom of the teeth of the gears with a file or sandpaper will prevent contact with the soft aluminum and achieve the same result.
Yes, and there is a washer already in place along with a spare. If you want to print TPU you might want to check out this video th-cam.com/video/QJucri-QPf0/w-d-xo.html
I filed the top of the gear down slightly because the hole wasn't 100% lined up (maybe 1.5mm off) and filed the aluminum a little and put a brass washer underneath. I did it that way because the gear's teeth were angled so it keeps it's distance from the washer. You're lucky the bolt holding the gear isn't threaded all the way down with the bearings riding on the threads. I had to make my own bolt so it would be smooth where the bearings are.
How did you end up making your own shoulder bolt? I just spent an hour trying to find it all over the place and can't seem to find an m3 bolt with a 3mm dia shoulder and 20mm overall length. Its maddening. Really interested in what you came up with. I'm considering just throwing the bolt into a drill chuck and spinning it with some sandpaper around it to remove the threads. I could just spend another $16 and order another extruder, they are cheap enough.....just have to make sure to look out for the black bolt(good one) as opposed to ones with the stainless bolt in the pictures.
@@housinit I just happened to have a metal rod that was the right thickness, cut it to length and added threads at the bottom. Right after I did this I happened to find a long m3 that had a smooth part longer than the housing. I bought it but haven't cut it/put threads on it yet.
Had this extruder for a year, did not have this problem, but I bought it 1.5 years ago, guess the manufacturer cheaped out on this one and now it has this problems, the problem with mine was that the gears are noisy on high speeds.
How did you get the dual fitting version to work? The extra fitting on mine won’t go on because of the leadscrew. Btw i fixed mine when I first got it by turning a new axle in brass on my Unimat lathe. I also added a bigger shoulder up top to take up the slack from the 3.2-3.3mm hole. Filed the bottom of the gear and added a brass washer.
Mine was a cheap clone. I've had zero issues. Very strong extruder for the price. I think this extruder and if you have a non TMC driver board the $20 MKS Robin E3 is the best upgrade I've made for my 2 Ender 3 v1s.
those cheap ali gears are molded after the official / genuine bondtech gears. i wouldn't skimp on purchasing "off brand" gears. there's a considerable amount of precision that goes into making those gears. just do a search amz for the official gears and the "off brand" and it's quite noticeable is the machining differences between the two. also i wouldn't sand down the bottom of the of the gears as if you want to use it a different application you may have to apply the same mods to the new application. also, with my dual extruder for my cr10 pro i ended up moding the the little piece of aluminum not sanding the gear, but the Al bracket, and using a little brass washer from a local hardware store, and things worked great. might be beneficial to apply some lubrication to the parts after the parts have been fitted.
After watching several videos.So I ordered the same one. I found that if you raise the motor gear up about 1mm from center where the filament rides, it will pull the other gear up just enough to clear the load handle. IT WILL NOT CHEW UP THE EXTRUDER HANDLE.. works perfect for me.
They literally sell one on amazon that already has washers built in. It's the same price as well lol why would you buy this same one?
@@PabzRoz because no matter how many washers you put on it. You still have to adjust the motor gear the same way. The washer is not a fix if the idler gear still rubs on it. I was just commenting how I got mine to work. No washer is needed. I did put one in there and it "floats" in place.
@@TheBrockbencomo I don't have any issues with mine like this. I just assumed since it comes with the washers that it fixed the problem. maybe they also adjusted the gear as well to prevent the issue from happening anymore.
Just received a new model, they shortened the gear and included a metal washer in the package.
I’m curious to see if the metal washer will cause wear on the extruder over time itself similar to running yours without a washer period.
Some dual gears don’t come with the correct bolt like yours. They come with a screw instead which grinds the bearings from inside. In addition due to different threads top and bottom the screw can tilt slightly which increases the selfgrinding.
I own this model, but it came with brass washers on top and below the gear.
My issue however was that it did not work with the original stepper from the Ender 5 Plus which has a shorter shaft.
As I bought the Ender 5 Plus with the original plastic extruder broken I ended up also ordering a stepper with a 21mm shaft.
Hi just wondering what size tap did you use for the extruder arm, so you could install a boden tube fitting for feeding the extruder? thanks
check out the dual owl gear extruder. it uses parts from this kit and works great
Great video!
Thank you for the support!
@@NeedItMakeIt I like your channel very much! Thanks a lot for your helpful videos!
Here black ones are available. Many people wrote the spring is an issue and they use the old one.
I had to file down the aluminium and add a stainless washer to get mine working, but its still a pain. Far better to get a trianglelabs BMG clone as its easier to feed filament, better for flexible, and a similar price. Also a 3:1 ratio aswell as dual gear whereas this one is just standard 1:1.
I actually used mine to do tpu printing and it was not captive enough to keep the tpu from shooting out the side. I ended up drilling out the exit hole to push the ptfe tube right up to the gears. I also cut the ptfe tube to a two angled point so it fit into the gears extra close.
That's a great idea If I switch to TPU I'll do this as well.
I heard this was an issue with these. I have one, but haven't installed it just yet and was going to see how it did. I might just have to drill it out before even trying it though. I print TPU more often than not for FPV quads and stuff. What size drill bit did you use to make the hole bigger?
@@housinit I can't remember. I just measured the diameter of my ptfe tube and used the same diameter but. I think it was like 4mm. I ended up drilling from the end you screw the coupler into. It made it easy to center the bit.
I have one of these dual drive units.
I found that the yellow spring supplied was way too strong and was crushing the filament and also causing the gears to bind together plus the bearings were squeaking.
I changed the yellow spring for the stock ender 3 spring and greased the bearings and since then it has worked flawlessly.
Great video though
I did find it strong, that's a good tip. Do you mind sharing which filament you use? I've found that the PETG and ABS feed through flawlessly for me, though it could also depend on filament brand and quality etc.
@@NeedItMakeIt I use eBay PLA filament, don't think it's any particular brand.
What I also found, when installing the dual drive was that the grub screw was to long for the gear and stuck out causing the gears to jam, it took me a while to figure out why the filament wouldn't feed, I assumed it was a blocked hot end as the new drive was feeding far too much as the e-steps were way off.
I had to file off a fair bit before the gears would turn.
Then I discovered the over-tension on the spring, like you showed, I was getting minute filings on the alloy arm plus the issues I've already mentioned.
I don't really see the need for a huge amount of spring force when the stock setup feeds ok with its spring, if anything less force is needed as twice the grip is being applied anyway.
for grease vs oil its best to use oil in a open bearing object and grease in sealed bearings the reason is the grease can trap dirt in a open bearing where oil will clean it out of the way
I've been curious about these dual drives because as the filament gets between the drive wheels, the teeth of the wheels must disengage a bit (mesh less) as the centers are pushed apart.
I had this issue and just replaced with an EZ R Struder. It's a lot easier to load and unload anyway and has a really well constrained filament path.
I will check it out, do you have a link you can provide where you purchased yours?
@@NeedItMakeIt This is where I got mine (it's not a dual gear but is has a large hob gear and has been an excellent extruder for me): www.seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/ezrstruder
@@10throwfilms That's very cool, I've never seen this type before. Thanks for sharing.
Best and easiest way to fix this issue is your method + riding the motor gear as high of the bottom as suggested.
I just noticed that the stock turning/indicator does not fit unto the motor shaft any longer with this design :/ wouldn't have bought it if I knew this in advance...
Caveat emptor!
You could also just chamfer the bottom of the gear thats digging in by about 10° or so, that way there's nothing that can be digging in. Also a little grease on the bottom of that gear will help too.
That's an interesting thought as the outside would have more velocity and wear faster.
@@IAmKyleBrown There would also just be no edge of the gear to dig in, you can't gouge anything with the backside of a spoon.
@@braingrenade Very good point!
I have single gear extruder but aluminium upgrade like this. I have trouble that the stepermotor gets in overload(torque limit) pretty often. Use a box and the filament is out of the box. Use an ender 3 pro. Need a solution for less stiff spring propably
I just tried mounting the extruder to my ender 5 plus, but the Motor driven gear sits way too close to the motor, and the metal rod used to mount the gear on the motor (sry, not a native english speaker) is way too short. Is the motor from the ender 5 plus not compatible?
I bought one of these dual gear extruder, except the shaft of the extruder motor was too short and the gear mounted on it could not be aligned with the holes and the other gear.
ive just used pfte lube -and noticed that also works
My biggest issue was when I tightened the pressure arm screw. It would bind up solid, and would not move. I took an end mill the same size as the hole that the sleeve dropped into and milled just enough out to allow the sleeve to protrude out the bottom so when it was tight. The pressure arm moved smoothly back and forth.
I just added a small SS washer under mine and it freed the arm up nicely. It also fixed a gear alignment issue that meant I didn’t have to go and mess with grub screws.
Wow the covid prices were real! I just paid 10 dollars on amazon for mine. Great video!
Im loving this informative resource (video). As an automotive/diesel-industrial technician whos only but a few weeks into 3dp, I must acclaim you for showing the "proper way", the way a true professional approaches such technical tasks and preventative maintenance. I just received this exact unit a few days ago and have been looking into ways I should go about approaching this job. And after reading your description and watching just confirms my thoughts almost exactly. And its that confirmation that really hits this home for me. Many may simply not realize the importance of every step taken. But you're having taken the time to drop so much knowledge on such a small job is something thats rarely exhibited especially on the ytubes.
SSlap me a like if you're like me, and enjoy a good douche of nickel-never-seize on any steel/on/aluminum fastener! 🙂
I just put this one on mine had like 50 hrs so far will see how it’s looking. I have render3 so far extruder set at 280 n still not getting 100mm. Stock one had it 230 to get 100mm. Isn’t that way to high? Am I missing something?
I just filed the gears so that they are not touching plate, like the original bondtech gears are. Used threadlock to keep the pin screw in place
I put the thing on cordless drill and rotated the gear and filed excess away.
it has another issue im finding a fix for, the gear doesnt tighten well onto the rotor. so mine slips, falls and ruins a prind at any given point. so im going to drill a hole into the rotor shaft so that i can thread the gear directly to it. this should fix my slipping gear
My Solution: Move gear on motor shaft up. In my case, top surface of motor shaft aligns with top surface of the gear and that solves it.
Aligned mine by simply inserting a filament between the two gears and moving the filament back and forth to release the tension before tightening the gear on the stepper.
im mad my version have thread screw for the bearing FFS
but since i had it horizontaly it didn'T wear in 20+ hour of printing
Some cheap ones are poor quality. One I got came with a fully threaded bolt so the roller bearings were expected to run on the threads. Replaced that. Then found I couldn't tighten the bolt enough to stop it moving because it pinched the gear. Had to do your mod to fix that. Supplied spring feels way too strong. All the hex socket head screws seem to have different size heads.
Just so you know, the washer that you had on top of the gear, was supposed to be underneath it to prevent the gear from "washing out" the metal below it. Aka the problem you caused/fixed in a different way. You could have just put the washer under it and been done. That's how mine is assembled and no issues. YET lol. Been a little over a year. Only silicon oil a couple times in it's life
Or perhaps yours didn't have the washer. These are cheaply packaged.
just use a couple of thin washers at top and bottom. The bigger issue with these is patterns in the wall of the print.
I just dabbed grease on the gear teeth with a small pool on the bottom edge. Using Moly grease and I have almost no wear. It's messy but effective. The filament doesn't get grease on it.
Grease seems to work wonders here. As long as it is mounted motor down the grease should keep away. Perfect, thanks!
@@NeedItMakeIt when I do see wear I'm making those Milk Jug washers though.
In the end it's still $17 worth of chinesium.
should I go for metal washer or a plastic?
New extruders come with a washer that stops the grinding problem. I have been using mine for 3 weeks and there is no sign of any wear.
This piece of tubing doesn’t colide with the Z screw?
I just put an ample amount of high pressure grease on mine when new, and haven’t noticed any problems yet. The plastic washer is a good idea though.
Cool, we'll that's simple. I have some new hardened gears on order with new bearings as a backup as well. I plan on working with some CF and I'm not sure how well these teeth will last. Since I can't file them easily I'll give your method a go.
@@NeedItMakeIt Where did you find the gears and bearings?
Is it okay to put a brass spacer instead of plastic?
Two stainless steel washers/shims .010 each keep it from wearing on my Ender 3 V2. Simple .50$ fix.
For me, the dual gear works with stiff filaments like PLA, ABS etc. However because there's a huge gap between the rollers and the filament feed through towards the Bowden tube, flexibles like TPU are extraordinarily difficult to print even if printed very slowly. There's just way too much room for the filament to noodle out from the gap between the rollers and the bowden tube coupling. I'm sure any low stiffness filaments could buckle in this gap. This issue is very repeatable and the only way to solve it is to have much lower assembly tolerances.
That's why I've switched back to the single gear extruder.
Drill out the extruder hole large enough to accept Capricorn tubing. When you press the Capricorn through the Bowden coupling, press enough through to stick out almost to the point of touching the gears. Your filament should hopefully go straight in. Capricorn is slick enough not to bind, and tight enough to stop it from feeding back on itself.
Or you can buy shims that are meant for airsoft gearboxes, they are dirt cheap and come in a various thickness so you can adjust top and bottom precisely.
I was lucky, as I use the extruder vertically on my printed DD setup, so the gears aren't affected by gravity.
I had wondered about that. I suppose I could have found a way to mount mine on the frame to do this, maybe it isn't as much of a design flaw as a style that has been copied and not modified properly to suit the printer they are marketing it for. Great point!
Same as me. I use this for my ender 5. I don't need to modify anything.
If the gear on the stepper is set too high or low relative to the other gear, the filament will lift up or push down that gear to its mount causing the problem described here.
Gravity isn't a factor here. The gears clamp against the filament. The grove aligns the gears to the filament. The motorside is in a fixed position. The problem side floats and adapts.
Mine has a metal washer and i still found metal dust around it... what could it be if mine has said metal washer?
Nice video
Thank you kindly.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you so much your help your are the best :)
@@yahyaselim7863 I try and come with a solution of my own, but many times you guys have better ones, we're crowd-sourcing solutions here and that is a great way to help each other.
I bought the official Creality metal extruder when I got my Ender 3 V2. I saw Chep's video on this extruder and thought it would be a good upgrade. Unfortunately I found it to be worse than the metal Creality one it replaced. I found the spring way too stiff and it would crush the filament too much. So I replaced the spring with the one that came with the printer. When calibrating my e steps I found this extruder to be very inaccurate. So I went back to the all metal Creality extruder. After my experience I recommend the single gear all metal Creality extruder over this one if you want to upgrade. Great video though. 👍
Had same results with the dual gear bmg extruder. Went back to all metal single gear and it is fine now again.
me too tried on ender 3 and got back to metal single gear extruder
When changing to the dual gear extruder, do you have to do anything with the firmware? Or is it just a straight swap?
You need to adjust the amount of steps because the extruder gears themselves are smaller, they'll require more steps to achieve the same amount of material extruded. There should be some videos on the subject on YT.
i have this exact one and its shaving off filament and making a mess, i dont know how to fix it :(
Interesting. I just brought one of these direct from Creality and it has some small bronze washers above and below the gear. The arm is shaped a bit different too. Maybe they updated it? Maybe there is something to the slightly more expensive model?
I will check it out, thanks for mentioning! I saw the image and it looked the same, but it seems that maybe these knockoffs are missing a few critical parts.
@@NeedItMakeIt This is the one I got.
www.creality3dofficial.com/collections/head-extruder/products/creality-cr-10s-pro-bondtech-double-gear-extruder-kit
And here you can see the bushings, because the pictures on the website don't show it. The grease is mine.
i.imgur.com/SQmaFNa.jpg
How do you figure out the e-steps?
Tiny Machines 3D discovered this issue with this type of extruder a couple of years ago. They place the lever in a milling machine to add clearance for the gear. You can find information about this on their Facebook page ( facebook.com/tinymachines3d ) --scroll down to the August 9th 2019 post. You can contact them about ordering the revised part. This is one of the many fixes they perform on their printers before they're shipped, and they also install and test just about every upgrade available if you order them with the printer.
Very cool, I will check them out.
I’ll have to get mine out of my crap box and give it a retry. Thanks
Can you believe they've made hundreds of thousands of these and never thought to make a slight change. Maybe they want them to fail?
@@NeedItMakeIt I imagine if the units are selling well then they probably don't care, or they are counting on users that may not be very mechanically inclined to think that it simply failed and buy another unit. Great fix by the way! Ive been pondering on getting a dual gear and may get one now after seeing this, and of course fix it before installing it lol.
I just got one from Temu for under $5 and it's got brass washers on each side of the gear. Just incase anyone is interested.
Is it still holding up? I might try this.
Mine keeps jamming. I thought it was the slicing software but I tried a test piece I knew worked with my old extruder but this one jams.
Look for small ptfe teflon washers they will last way longer and slide better 😉 and are also know to handle high temps (315°c /600°f)
You mean I wouldn't have to make them? That's crazy!
@@NeedItMakeIt 🙈😝