Add dual extrusion with gradients - Mixing hot end guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2020
- Dual extrusion can be very useful and is always visually impressive. It is possible to add it to an existing single extrusion printer. Previously, I fitted such a kit to a Tevo Tornado, converting it to a dual, switching ozzle machine, but that was very involved. The Bigtreetech mixing hot end kit as featured in this video is simple by comparison, although still needs a few extra parts and steps. The initial results here are good and I expect to improve after tuning retraction.
These products were purchased with my own money with the aim of making this guide. All opinions expressed are my own.
Purchase the BTT mixing hot end (as fitted in this video): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dYp...
Purchase the BTT 2 in, 1 out Ender 3 compatible hot end (shown but not fitted in this video): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dZF...
Models featured in this video:
Vase: www.thingiverse.com/thing:481268
Low poly fox: www.thingiverse.com/thing:937740
Dual colour tree frog: www.thingiverse.com/thing:329436
Race frog: www.thingiverse.com/thing:242...
CR-6 style ABL system for Ender 3 (now updated with the parts from this video): www.thingiverse.com/thing:442...
SKR V1.3/1.4 universal case: www.thingiverse.com/thing:386...
Filament spool holder for 2020 frame: www.thingiverse.com/thing:213...
My remixed, longer version: www.thingiverse.com/thing:455...
Previous video on switching dual extrusion hot ends: • Add dual extrusion to ...
Previous video on CR-6 style Ender 3 ABL system: • CR-6 auto bed levellin...
Previous video on dual extrusion printing: • Dual extrusion guide: ...
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Hi guys, ran out of time to print the final frog but here it is: imgur.com/a/fox5PaH
Using yellow and blue, I made a green, yellow and green frog. Pretty cool!
How do you get the graphics to display on the z height(Arrows)? I have an skr13 and always remember seeing a graphic on one of your videos and just saw it again.
Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same??
Hi teachingtech, Did you get the 24V one or the 12V one?
Hello please explain how I can do it on ender 3 neo please
I would really like to see dual extrusion with a support material
that and other potential uses of multiple materials is the main thing I want dual extrusion for
This is better suited to one material as each filament is locked into the same hot end temp.
Should have a look at Dr. D-Flo channel, he has a printer with multiple extrusions that can be used for support material. Its a tiny machine, but its pretty amazing.
@@jon9947 D-Flo's printer is an IDEX designed by stephenci using fully separate Z-X gantries for the heads; essentially, something like two Prusa Mini printers conjoined on the Y axis to print on one bed. Thanks for the tip. Fitting a longer print bed would allow it to do other IDEX things like simultaneous clone printing (including mirrored on X axis).
Printer design is found at github.com/stephenci/ZideX
For similar temp range materials you can use these as well for support or multimaterial printing most likely. Chuck has a lot of mixing videos of different materials
Purging wouldn't be as much of an issue for models large enough to purge wall color changes on infill and a slicer with options to do that.
a purge bucket is far more efficient for collor shifts as there is no resistance to the fillament the change happens much faster and cleaner
@@jackass123455 itd be cool if someone could make the purge bucket inside of the model so the extruder doesn't have to travel far
cura should hire you
You can calibrate away. Most of the swich over is actually quite short.
Using a combination of using some of the rest and doing the gradient in the infill. The block can be massivly reduced.
This guy is crazy smart. I'm super new to 3d printing, but impressed with how smart people are able to extract every last bit of potential out of it.
Looking forward to a RGBW mixer.
You need cmyk (and white), rgb is for mixing light, cmy is for pigments.
@@404Anymouse RGBW will get you some color mixing, though it's probably not going to be the colors you're looking for.
@@404Anymouse You knew what I meant didn't ya.
Thanks for the explanation, I didn’t think about all the extra pieces that you need to get on top of the dual extruder.
Thank you for making this video you just helped me pick a hot end for my ender 3
Very helpful Thankyou I have just fitted the BTT 2in1 Mixing video and this video saved me hours of searching to find how to set up marlin once again Thankyou.
Spot on video on the subject as usual. Please create a video on the subject of slicing setups for this specific dual extrusion
I like it. Have to consider getting it. Thanks
Thank you, love your videos. good project ideas to try out and i really would like to see more videos i this topic area.
Ohhhh, I’m interested for sure. The proprietary nozzle is a downer but understandable with a mixing design at this price. The blending is really cool. Like everyone else it made me want an RBG setup!
Bet an adapter to a normal nozzle could be made out of brass
Great work. Thank you
I did this years ago with my own y on the Bowden tube. My retracts in colour change were really long. I did not use a purge block, as I consider it wasteful. I mounted a washer horizontally to the side of the frame and move the nozzle over the center purge just enough to clear the nozzle, then wipe over the washer and continue printing. Worked perfectly without issue once I got it calibrated properly. Easier with a core XY, otherwise I probably would have mounted the washer on a servo to save print space.
It would be so cool to mix normal PLA with dynamically changing amounts of TPU. So you could have parts with continuously varying stiffnesses.
Awesome man!!
Might work better with PETG and TPU
after 3days of searching i have now found the answer how to set dual extrusion
2 video's in 3 days?
Thank you!
I'd love to see a dual hot end video for the ender 3
I like the actuated version you had shown in the beginning.
Seems a bit pricey, at least for me with a CR-10S .... only 4 motor drivers. Bummer
Thank you Michael. I just bought this extruder with a skr pro V1.1 and TMC 2209 drivers. Marlin 2.0 is new to me and VScode too, so your video helps with getting me part way there. I am also interested in running with dissolvable support. I tried a similar hot end to the one you did NOT choose and it gets gummed up eventually and the PTFE funnel section degrades and needs to be replaced after a few weeks. not fun. I am installing on a Cubex Duo printer from 2013 that I gutted.
Currently waiting for a 3-in-1 mixing hotend I bought nearly two months ago on aliexpress. Thanks for the video, I think that will help a lot with setting it up :)
Did you ever get that 3-in-1 mixing? Can you provide a link to it?
@@WilliamMantly Hi, sorry for the late response. Yes, I got it, but I still need to finish my enclosure (life got a bit in the way) and some other mods, like the hotend quick change mod from properprinting. The Hotend I ordered is a Zonestar M3, which seems to be available in multiple versions. I also have a model for a silicon sock available (still need to buy silicon) and designed a custom holder (again, for that quick change mod).
@@VIsualbasiclivestrea I just bought the M3, ZM3E4 board and color LCD screen from Zonestare and going to try and get them on my ender 3 v2. I am in the process of designing a box to hold the new board and screen. I am going to attach the 2 extra extruders to the back of the x arm and work from there. The only part i haven't figured it is how to mount the M3 hotend, but will when i have it in hand.
@@WilliamMantly If you need a mockup model of the hotend, feel free to use this: a360.co/3iWz2Gv
Another awesome video!
Love it. Thank you.
Can you try installing two hotends side by side for dual extrusion. That would be cool to see/do. You would lose some print area but not much. And if you install two mixing hotends like that side by side you would be able to create some crazy stuff. Four spools and two hotends.
I believe I saw settimgs in marlin for such set up.
You do that and I definitely will become a patron.
Thanks again Michael! 👍👍👍
Actually, it'd be simple not to loose a lot of area. Just install the other hotend on the back side of the existing one
🤯
Imagine this with non planar printing, OP AF.
Edit: And 2 Mosaic Paletes. 8 colors! Smooth non planar printing! Infinite color combos with RGBW!
While this is a brilliant way to achieve a decent quality dual extrusion, I still prefer IDEX printer as they remove the need for a purge block. They also open up the ability to have dual flexible filament thanks to the fact that they can be direct drive. Overall great video and really helpful and informal.
Not for everyone... I use my printer mainly for "utilitarian" items like brackets, mounts, knobs, and other component parts. For those with a more artistic use, this would be excellent. That purge block does offend the Scottish part of my DNA though! :o)
Thanks for another informative, watchable video.
I agree- that frog and cat look sick, but I'm not gonna waste my filament, additional money on that fancy hotend and purge plans for direct extruder. With technical parts you can just make separate pieces from different colors anyway, since you often need to screw/connect them to each other for the final assembly.
I'm printing reliably with 3in1out "switching hotend". Had problems with stringing when switching, but after many hours of trying out different ways to pull the filament I got it to look like arrow; no problems since (with the switching procedure).
I'm interested in dual extrusion because I want to print supports with a material that could be washed away in a bath after the print for easy support cleanup. Have you done this before? Do you think this setup would work for that? Also thanks for your videos! Great and helpful as always.
Interesting video as always
Thanks for sharing :-)
I like this one hell of a lot better than having two nozzles. I mean it looks like it's a pain in the ass but it also looks like it's less of a pain in the ass than regular dual Extrusion so It's definitely an improvement.
Brilliant.
The auto bed leveling system on the tivo is Interesting I wonder if the same thing could be done on an ender 3 with the z axis limit switch
Sovol has dual extrusion 3d printer, SV02, unfortunately it is out of stock.:(
Great video! I wonder if this would work for the CR-6 SE?
Now for the stupidest question: what's *really* holding us back from a 5 end mixer that supports rgbwb?
well mainly that subtractive colors systems use the CMY color space. you know, like printers
good news my friend there is already people and companies doing it th-cam.com/video/f8DL0rsjwdI/w-d-xo.html
Size I guess? 3 way mixing nozzles have been around for years (and relatively cheap from China, though I haven't tested the quality).
@@rpnct I also think its the waste from using one with the pillar block on the side
@@rpnct That and the fact that mixing extruders jam more if you don't regularly print all colors, since the unused filament just stays in the end being cooked.
Nice Video! Interesting content
Would LOVE to see a triple mixing hotend like this for full RGB or CMY color mixing.
Would this one not do what you're after? amzn.to/3j3pQka
@@DavidRelich You'd need at least 4 colors since there's no white substrate like with ink on paper.
@@dekutree64 True you'd need white, cyan, magenta, and yellow filaments and better if you also add a 5th of black
You're a genius , thnx for tutorial .... You know if can i do that on a Elegoo Neptune 3 ??
Hi, I would like to suggest to make a video talking about optical endstop and how to install it in a Ender 5. There is nothing on internet about it. Thanks, from Brazil.
Would love to see you print PLA with PETG as the support material using this mixing nozzle.
I hope you look into a diamond hotend after this. The basic version is 3 filament mixing with a more advanced 6 filament mixing also available
Very interesting!
Hi ! thanks a lot for your excellent videos! I already modified my ender 3 and added a non mixing hot end and a mks gen L. That work fine but the scripts for the filament retraction are quite tricky and cura doesnt handle this very well. So I ordered a mixing hot end. In the meanwhile I'm configuring Marlin to suit it. The weird thing the there's no GRADIENT_MIX option under ENABLED(MIXING_EXTRUDER) section in Marlin 1.1.9 . Which version of Marlin did you use ?
Great video. I am wondering if you have had any problem with color uniformity in layers. I have a color problem when trying to mix colors, like 80%white and 10% brown. One side is always lighter than the other, left to right when looking a the print. Any ideas?
Amazing👍
Two points - stringing and retraction is much more difficult on this style of printer as the design has to mitigate backflow from filament one throat into filament two throat (and vice versa). The Geeetech a10m, for example, has filter disks which make retraction nearly impossible. There is also a larger volume of molten material in the mixing chamber that makes drooling an issue.
Second point - almost every that runs this style eventually goes to running purge buckets instead. The advantage is quickness and less waste plastic as you don't have to purge on monochromatic layers to maintain a purge tower z-height.
gracias voy a comprar esa boquilla ya tengo la otra la amas barata pero me gusto la mas carita la que si puede meter los 2 colores a la vez 😁
nice review , i am thinking about fitting this to a tronxy x5sa-2e , but would also like to upgrade the firmware to add the mixing feature , what are your thoughts on this ? also not a lot of luck finding config on github for the 2e version of this printer
Awesome video! Is this possible on a direct drive machine like the genius ?
I cant imagine that super wobbly assembly is doing much to help your print quality.
The force from my hand pushing it is many magnitudes larger than what is experiences printing. Having said that I still do plan to look at the remixes from the community and develop it further.
@@TeachingTech Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same as the stock?
Hey Michael, are you going to review the Qidi X-Max printer? I am curious as it claims to print nylon parts out of the box.
I def want this on my ender 3 now -_-
The two tone frog could use the inner structure to change colour, like the filler could do the gradient job so the outer part will have solid colours, it would require a lot of manual editing I guess unless a slicing program comes up with an easier solution to automate it.
prusaslicer had this feature since 2019, google "wipe into infill"
Yeah I imagine the filament output "selection" or mixing being executed all the way down in the block/nozzle, requires a _relatively_ large cavity zone in there. Making retractions quite a headache to dial in when it comes to getting rid of stringing.
How did you tighten the nozzle when at print temp, & how long can the unused roll sit before things clog up?
Micheal is my favorite tech teacher. Also my favorite clasher of TH-cam standards, the holy vampire 🥓🥓🥓
cool. does it have a all-metal heatbreak?
Hi! thank you for your videos! would it be possible to do this on the cr10s max keeping the bl tuch and if yes, how?
I’m new to 3D printing but I’d love to add a dual extruder to my CR-10S so that I can have dissolvable support filament!
Based on my experience with an E3D Cyclops you really only want to use mixing hotends when you're actually printing objects with either a mixing mode or a switching mode. Filaments don't particularly like being parked at operating temperatures for long periods of time so if you use these mixing hotends to print in just one colour then you will "cook" the parked filament and actually clog up the standby filament path. If you try to avoid the cooking issue by only having one filament loaded then it extrudes back up the open filament path and clogs it with solid filament instead.
yeah ive come across this issue too, i overcame it by when i want to only use one color I use two rolls of the same filament set to mix at 50%
Might be able to set it to do a small “purge” of the hotend every 10-15mins or so to get around this. Will waste some filament and add time to print but not by too much
Would extruding a small amount (1-2%) of the unwanted color prevent this without affecting the primary colour ?
Eg if you want red print 98% red with 2% blue, and then when switching to blue print 98% blue with 2% red ?
@@darrenmilne1489 Yeah, that should work: th-cam.com/video/f8DL0rsjwdI/w-d-xo.html
I found this extremely interesting, when at the very end you mentioned the possibility of a third color from mixing two. Would this not mean that any color was possible using RGB Filaments, or RGBY atleaat?
I recently purchased a CHIRON with multicoloring printing a future possibility.
thats pretty slick. i could see it coming in handy if you had a very large print and needed more than a single roll of fillament, did water soluble supports or any of the options you mentioned. i might give this a go sometime. i just dipped my toe in the firmware editing waters so. i need to be carefull, lol. i have a dual z on my mini e3 2.0. can you edit the firmware to use the 2nd z stepper as a second extruder??
Hi, good video btw. Have you already done a video to configure a Diamond Hotend? It's the same config that you've done in this video, but just adding 1 extruder? I have many struggles with moving the motors and adding the filaments to the extruder
Really nice. Will this work for support material ? Also. If they can make a 4 extruder CMYK one. That could make the first FDM printer capable of full color printing. I’m really tempted to test it. I already have a dual extruder setup but the older ones with 2 full extruders and chimera clone hotend. And the alignment, etc. has its problems.
I want to see a 5 filament mixer: CMYKW filaments to potentially make any colour. Now mix right at the tip and eliminate the purge block. Calibration might be a bit of a rough process though :)
www.reprap.me/extruder/diamond-hotend
Good onya mate, you’ve suckered me in again, now where’s me flamin’ credit card, more stuff to buy mrs. no Michael said it works cool so I want one! hmmm lol. Great presentation as usual mate, always a pleasure to learn from you. Quick question if I may, where can I get the Velcro backed stuff that you used to wrap all the wiring together in previous videos? Have searched everywhere and can’t find any. Again, thanks for the hard work and the very insightful videos mate, always first class, thank you
I usually get cable stuff from the hardwre store. Two examples: www.bunnings.com.au/epa-12mm-x-5m-black-spiral-wrap_p4331579 and www.bunnings.com.au/cobra-2m-cord-flexi-mesh_p4430516
I wish you checked single prints and dual material and so much more. Tuning the purge block and all. And a few more prints and using 3 colors. One of each and one mix
Can you do a video showing the setup in Marlin 2.0 and cura, plus the offsets and such for a dual extruder, dual nozzle setup, that is not magnetic, or use servo's? The type that's solid mounted next to each other all the time. I can't seem to find a decent video for this anywhere, nor even the information for what all needs selected in Marlin. It's crazy.
What do you think of anet et4 pro
Should I buy it or ender 3
It will be my first printer
Second time that I have watched this. I just bought a stock ender 3 as my second printer, but I was tempted to buy a dual extruder printer like the a10. Just realized that if you got a 3 filament mixing hotend then you could print all colors using rgb techniques.
RGB doent work for material in the same way as light.
Hey did u try this hotend
I've now put this hotend on my A20M. I have a mounting bracket but having a hard time getting a part cooling piece. I'm not good with cad.
do you think you could try the Prusa mum next that would be awesome
I think that if you use the BL-Touch you can also use the slot for the Z-Stop - since you no longer need it. Am I right about that?
that was very cool. Question: Why would the purge block be so big when the two filaments are so close to the heat block? I would think that you would be able to purge quite quite quickly. Is it a time setting or something in Marlin?
This was a random, safe value I picked to test with. You set the size in the slicer and from here you could reduce and monitor if there was still a clear transition.
With a purge block, the printer will continue printing on the purge block to keep the layers even with the actual model being printed. This will happen even if the former color has completely purged from the hot end.
You should actually be able to use 2 different extruders in marlin if you define distinct_e_factors. I use my dual extruder with a E3D Titan and a creality metal extruder.
Thats true!!!
Well spotted, thank you.
@@TeachingTech Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same??
Hey so you are saying that I can have a direct drive and bowden set up at the same time
@Teaching Technology What about installing this on the skr mini v2? It has 5 slots.
I just did the mod to my ender 5! So cool
What board do you use for your ender 5? I have the "silent 1.1.5" board on mine, but really want to switch it out for something better.
@@briguy9915 SKR V1.4 would be a good board for the printer.
@@briguy9915 I personally think I made a mistake with choosing the SKR pro because I had to heavily modify the base of the printer to move the power supply. But it works great. I just wanted to have an extra port for 3 color prints with a 3 color 2 in one out nozzle
is such a huge purge block really needed if the mixing happens in the nozzle? i bet you can lower the cubic purge volume by a factor of 10 or more.. also a slicer option to move purge moves into the infill / inner walls instead would be much better
the other type you got is a cone of the creality cr-x hotend and functions the same way. im interested in that ABL solution you have is there a link to it and potentially it's setup on a cr-x?
Actually it is possible to have different steps per mm ratio for both extruder in Marlin ;) Also it's worth mentioning that there is a significant problem with replacing this nozzle, there are no spares (at least I didn't find any on Aliexpress)
There is a new version of this on which you can change nozzle
@@syedsulaiman8380 whats the new version?
@@Skylionfpv sorry it's not a mixing hotend exactly
I got confused
Can you do a video on the Cr -10s Pro V2 on how to pause the Z axis so you could do a filament change? thanks
was hoping to see the inside structure of this hotend. I have a A10M and it has huge tendency to clog and string/ooze. It has a mesh filter inside which seems to be the culprit for clogging, but does aid on the mixing.
I can see a day when 3 or 4 color mixers comes to fruition and thus you could in theory do nearly full color prints
Geeetech A10T is 3 color
Is there a tri-color hotend? so that we can use RGB filament role AND print in any possible color since all colors are combination of those 3
Hi. I purchased the same hotend, but can't print with it. It seems like teh filament melt and stack in the metal leading tube above the hotend.
First I purge manually , but after a few seconds i can't do it again. Any ideas?
Can you test the non-planar nozzles and code to see if it is actually worth bothering with?
So, would it be feasible to have a triple feed mixing head and then simply supply Red, Green and Blue filaments?
Because even limited to 100, (>7bit?) colour gradients per filament, that's a pretty wide range of colours.
I know this is from about a year ago, but i'm still interested in it, is the inside of the heatsink lined with PTFE or all metal because it would be nice to print materials other than PLA and PETG, without risking to burn a liner?
edit: your PTFE gets right up to the end of the heatsink, then it goes into metal, idk how hot the heatbreaks get there but it might be safe to run over 250? idk..
Would it be possible to use the stock board but switch power from one extruder to another? Basically is there any output on the board that can switch a relay?
Would this work with PVA +PLA since they require similar temps? It would be cool to do this
Cool toy.
Great video, I really like how you explain things. I would like to try this on my Ender 3 as well. Would this work with an SKR mini E3 V2.0? It can control 5 stepper motors, however it is supposed to drive double z axis and only 1 extruder. Would it be possible to reassign ZBM to control a second extruder?
No, there are only 4 stepper controllers. The two Z outputs are wired in parallel so they always move together.
which thermistor model should I configure in marlin
Is it posible to get a hardened steel nozzle for the mixing hotend or stainless or just a replacement nozzle
Mixing different materials for different mechanical properties.
Overheating the lower temperature one might be an issue, but there already exists PC-ABS blends of filament (and those have quite different printing temperatures by them self)... Perhaps keeping a low minimum flow of the lower temp one prevent over cooking the same piece of plastic?
I'm looking at a NF THC-01 hotend that's a 3 to1 system which promises no filament blocking in it to bring my Ender 3 pro to 5 hotend feeds. I'm gathering it's similar to yours in design interior wise and isn't much bigger than the factory one was vertically as it is hexagon shaped to allow 3 filament tubes access. I am hoping for a true RGB ability from it for colors and will use the other dual hotend (Cyclops) I have beside it for white and the filler/support tube which will have infinite brand's Aquasys 120 water-soluble 1.75 mm filament. I think this will cut my costs down drastically as right now I'm swapping between 18 1 kg spools of st-pla every time I need a color change. I then can make a filament profile for just about any color at any time and only need to add one more line for the temp like a side by side dual system . I will let you know how it goes and wish me luck
I just got this one set up and got a clog right away. What retraction setting do you start off with to avoid clogging?
Not sure if this has been asked before, hut is there a 3to1 tip that you could use with 3 extruders to use the primary colours and have it print any colour needed in one run?
Great video but can you add a link to the Marlin Firmware(v1.1.9 if possible).
im wondering something can you use 2 material with a mixing extruder ? huh
id like to see something like pla + nylon or pla + tpu for example lul
*saying that. if you can change the temp before extruding each material
i wonder the damage it can does to the nozzle
or with a Y style dual extruder 2 feeder into 1 nozzle,1 at a time
I have the cr10s pro v2: Does this have enough stepper motor drivers?