That bubble level is no good unless the table, the floor the table is standing on and the foundation of the floor the table is on are all flat. You want to level the gantry to the print bed so a ruler I think would be a better option
@@davidflanders8516 contractors have used levels for decades on un even surfaces and still make foundations etc level. Obviously you need a level surface or table as I mentioned but the ground is irrelevant. You could use a ruler sure, but flat table and the level works fine every time.
@@Darkwingdad You lost all credibility by using a bubble level without understanding how it applies in this context as @davidflanders8516 tried to make you understand but you were condescending about it. You obviously don't understand what a "level" surface is and also "flat" has a different definition also. Don't be an ass when you're obviously misinformed.
I have done this and eventually abandoned it for a belt driven z axis. The dual motors would quickly go out of sync and one side would be off enough to cause print issues. The other option is to have dual lead screws linked to one motor by a belt on top. It is also hard to get those motors perfectly perpendicular to the extrusion below. HOWEVER, this is a cheap way towards a solution that for some people have solved many issues with their ender.
I just installed my dual z using your video. I installed the sprite pro extruder and it’s a lot heavier than the stock 3 pro extruder so I’m hoping this helps. Happy New Year!!
Hey great video on the install,, I do however have a question please !! I am having such an issue with compiling Marlin for my E3Pro with ((BLtouch and Filament Sensor…. Any suggestions PLEASE 🙏 Thank you,,and learned a lot from your videos on primer/filler 👍🏻👍🏻
@@Darkwingdad ,, I have actually found a version of marlin that is working at the moment,, but I absolutely appreciate your help/response and look forward to learning more from you regarding printing and painting…THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH 👍🏻👍🏻,,but I believe I will be okay with this version..(trying it out now)..time will tell 🤞🏻🤞🏻
I think it’s like anything else tbh. Theres absolute garbage on Amazon for cheap, even on Black Friday major retailers sell junk tv’s etc & I’ll admit some stuff on temu is a step above a flea market but the name brand stuff is legit & a bit cheaper than Amazon. You roll in some of the coupons & offers they have with free shipping you can save $20-$25 easily on a 3-4 items vs Amazon. Not too bad.
How do you keep the gantry level without a toothed belt ? Just for my logic, im about to pull the trigger on a set but when i install it and turn one motor slightly upwards while the other motor is not turning ( wich is quite usual on a ender if you do anything on the x-gantry ) and now you turn printer on home and the motors go down touch bltouch for home and now one motor is homed higher than the other since they both share the same signal ?
Install the gantry with the z axis loosened on the bottom z couplers (they attach to the stepper motors) in the video I line them up and turn them sequentially at the same time & use a level as a guide. If it’s not level turn whichever one makes it level than tighten the couplers to the z rods. Bc they share a signal once tightened the gantry will move properly without offsetting the gantry as long as it’s installed level.
@@Darkwingdad oh sweet it's just my first printer I just got a few days ago and I've heard a lot of good things about the dual z mod. I might just buy one this week. :D
@@jhavytxu they are in sink with that one motor so it still does the same thing just running off 1 vs 2. You could do this if you wanted to but wouldn’t add anything except less stress on that 1 motor
After installing the dual Z and a sprite extruder, if i cannot move my Z axis via the dial, move axis, z axis, 1mm, it stays at 0 no mater what i do, i am wondering if the supplied cable is broken as i can move the stepper motor if i swap the y axis with one of the z axis cables via the y axis menu, any ideas? Thanks!!
Sounds like there is damage to the cable. Check to see that the pins in the harness didn’t get pushed out of the connector. If you visually inspect the harness and there’s no damage take a micro flat head screw driver or pick tool and push the pins back toward the harness. Often times harnesses can become de pinned.
@Darkwingdad so to update i manually moved the z rods to bring it up and it moves when you auto home, but cannot be manually moved in the rotary dial and display method, i will try to connect via usb and ponterface but i also installed a sprite direct drive extruder at the same time and my x and y are way off but i can adjust them via the dial... so confused at the moment lol
With the level, you also have to make sure your table is level and your floor is level. Or make the base of the ender 3 level. Otherwise a level wont be accurate.
That bubble level is no good unless the table, the floor the table is standing on and the foundation of the floor the table is on are all flat. You want to level the gantry to the print bed so a ruler I think would be a better option
@@davidflanders8516 contractors have used levels for decades on un even surfaces and still make foundations etc level. Obviously you need a level surface or table as I mentioned but the ground is irrelevant. You could use a ruler sure, but flat table and the level works fine every time.
@@Darkwingdad You lost all credibility by using a bubble level without understanding how it applies in this context as @davidflanders8516 tried to make you understand but you were condescending about it. You obviously don't understand what a "level" surface is and also "flat" has a different definition also. Don't be an ass when you're obviously misinformed.
I have done this and eventually abandoned it for a belt driven z axis. The dual motors would quickly go out of sync and one side would be off enough to cause print issues. The other option is to have dual lead screws linked to one motor by a belt on top. It is also hard to get those motors perfectly perpendicular to the extrusion below. HOWEVER, this is a cheap way towards a solution that for some people have solved many issues with their ender.
Might have to look into a z sync kit than
I just installed my dual z using your video. I installed the sprite pro extruder and it’s a lot heavier than the stock 3 pro extruder so I’m hoping this helps. Happy New Year!!
It will absolutely help distribute the weight. Happy new year my friend!
Just received a z axis for Xmas, good video, thanks
It’s a great upgrade, mine is printing awesome! Thanks for watching
W vid and first and can’t wait for more
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Hey great video on the install,, I do however have a question please !! I am having such an issue with compiling Marlin for my E3Pro with ((BLtouch and Filament Sensor…. Any suggestions PLEASE 🙏
Thank you,,and learned a lot from your videos on primer/filler 👍🏻👍🏻
I assume you reflashed with creality firmware
Yes I have tried,,but marlin is a little confusing to me…please help me out and I can toss you some $$
@@patsfann4life69 is the sensor working? Bl touch? Or can you not flash it?
@@Darkwingdad ,, I have actually found a version of marlin that is working at the moment,, but I absolutely appreciate your help/response and look forward to learning more from you regarding printing and painting…THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH 👍🏻👍🏻,,but I believe I will be okay with this version..(trying it out now)..time will tell 🤞🏻🤞🏻
Never really thought that Temu would have genuinely useful stuff. Great video!
I think it’s like anything else tbh. Theres absolute garbage on Amazon for cheap, even on Black Friday major retailers sell junk tv’s etc & I’ll admit some stuff on temu is a step above a flea market but the name brand stuff is legit & a bit cheaper than Amazon. You roll in some of the coupons & offers they have with free shipping you can save $20-$25 easily on a 3-4 items vs Amazon. Not too bad.
@@Darkwingdad Sounds cool. Thanks for the advice.
Second time I do this, but never hurts to have a video loaded for reference. Thanks
How do you keep the gantry level without a toothed belt ?
Just for my logic, im about to pull the trigger on a set but when i install it and turn one motor slightly upwards while the other motor is not turning ( wich is quite usual on a ender if you do anything on the x-gantry ) and now you turn printer on home and the motors go down touch bltouch for home and now one motor is homed higher than the other since they both share the same signal ?
Install the gantry with the z axis loosened on the bottom z couplers (they attach to the stepper motors) in the video I line them up and turn them sequentially at the same time & use a level as a guide. If it’s not level turn whichever one makes it level than tighten the couplers to the z rods. Bc they share a signal once tightened the gantry will move properly without offsetting the gantry as long as it’s installed level.
That looks like the pro model. Does this work with the classic ender 3? Like is it compatible?
Yes it is,no firmware upgrades or anything needed
@@Darkwingdad oh sweet it's just my first printer I just got a few days ago and I've heard a lot of good things about the dual z mod. I might just buy one this week. :D
@@blazmang3194 it’s a big help for sure I recommend it!
can you install this upgrade on the ender 3 v3 ke? because it has double screw but not double motor. Thanks!
The v3 ke is already a dual z printer
It has dual screw but only one step motor
@@jhavytxu they are in sink with that one motor so it still does the same thing just running off 1 vs 2. You could do this if you wanted to but wouldn’t add anything except less stress on that 1 motor
After installing the dual Z and a sprite extruder, if i cannot move my Z axis via the dial, move axis, z axis, 1mm, it stays at 0 no mater what i do, i am wondering if the supplied cable is broken as i can move the stepper motor if i swap the y axis with one of the z axis cables via the y axis menu, any ideas? Thanks!!
Sounds like there is damage to the cable. Check to see that the pins in the harness didn’t get pushed out of the connector. If you visually inspect the harness and there’s no damage take a micro flat head screw driver or pick tool and push the pins back toward the harness. Often times harnesses can become de pinned.
@Darkwingdad so to update i manually moved the z rods to bring it up and it moves when you auto home, but cannot be manually moved in the rotary dial and display method, i will try to connect via usb and ponterface but i also installed a sprite direct drive extruder at the same time and my x and y are way off but i can adjust them via the dial... so confused at the moment lol
@@TheMattcrazy4200 did you do any firmware update? If it’s a problem with the control panel pronterface will certainly override it
@@Darkwingdad no not yet as i could not find the firmware for an ender 3 neo with sprite extruder, any tips for firmware?
With the level, you also have to make sure your table is level and your floor is level. Or make the base of the ender 3 level. Otherwise a level wont be accurate.
This video is good except for one thing, your camera is supposed to point at what you're assembling, not somewhere off to the side
Don’t really know what you mean, whole video shows up close shots & directed commentary the whole time 🤷🏻
Thank you very much.
go ahead
Yepppp
Just bought one of these for my 3v2 haven't put it on yet. maybe tomorrow.
Pretty straightforward install, definitely able to print faster with more control
How dare you not print a bunch for print test 😂
@@rakanal.2925 lol
Temu xD
Elaborate…?